Don’t I know it 2011 Astra 104000 miles fsh , first sign low oil pressure comes up on dash when the engine is started from cold , then a few months later boom 💥
My BMW with the N47 engine seized at 107 k and I’m borrowing my dads 2011 insignia CDTI and it just hit 200k with no major work small bits and bobs like radiator pipe and small stuff like that
I have the same engine , so you need to take all engine out just for a seal ? Need to design a seal additive than can be added with oil changes that seals on the inside but still be able to get sump plug off when needed , just add every oil change
Seen this loads the seal goes brittle cracks and comes away ive also heard from a few sources of main dealers programming the ecu's to stop the oil light coming on early as I say a few sources have said it if I believe thsm that's another story but I have seen those engines seized first hand ive ground a lot of cranks and seen a lot of blocks line bored
I just looked up my car the light just came on a few times took it to the garage they changed the flush and oil and filter and next morning it seized up on the way to work the light came on for a few seconds before it went off
If it’s the same engine as they use in the Astra j it’s just a case of taking the exhaust off and dropping the sump there two bits recessed in the fly wheel to get at two of the bolts but there easy enough done
On (presumably) older versions, two holes are not present to gain access to those two bolts you mentioned. I even saw a video where a guy ground the case where they are missing to access them rather than separating the box 😮
Can this be prevented with proper servicing. I’m not too sure about these but I know some newer cars service intervals are way to long. Is it a case of oil loosing its viscosity and the seal going hard or are they all just fucked anyways
Diesel in the oil from incomplete regens causes the seal to hard, meaning the pump draws air, this causes pump failure and subsequent oil starvation, causing bottom end seizure.
This part shouldn't just be a cheap seal that the pan pressed against it (usually the oil pickup is part of the bottom end and usually made of metal not plastic)
The o-ring? or the engine? The engine is a (2.0 diesel A20DTH) the o-ring is not so difficult to change if you have worked on cars before, also if it's not 4x4 model (i have not worked on a 4x4 model just on my FWD one SO i just heard that is more difficult to work on the 4x4 one) you drain the oil, the bottom oil pan must be dismantled (be careful it is made of aluminium if it does not come off easy then cut the sealing with a cutter, do not force the pan with a screw so you will not form a dent on the sealing part) from what I remember there are some screws that are more difficult to access on the side with the gearbox, you can take them of but I don't remember how I did it (I can take a look for you if you need), I recommend looking for an aluminum o-ring for replacement (fixes the problem for life), I asked an acquaintance to make me one with built-in gaskets. (But you can find on sale a lot of options) I used Victor Reinz silicone to form a thin gasket on the oil pan sealing surface, follow the instructions on the package (make sure not to enter excess in the Oil pan, bring the oil pan closer to the engine without touching it, fit a few screws so that it is attached but not touching the engine, slowly bring the screws closer until the oil pan touches the engine equally each one. if you change the engine, it's a lot of work (it can be removed with the gearbox on it, first engine ever replaced by me, i'm not a mecanic also you need another person to help from time to time i guided the engine out and in, while another person lifted it with the crane, you also need the old computer on the new engine to start). many components are worth replacing if you take the engine down, but it's not a good idea from a financial point of view. The gas cooler, admission intake with an improved one so the engine will not suck any flaps in and destroy itself. (I found one in Poland) engine seals etc. the reason why the gas cooler cracks is the clogged DPF filter from what I realised (I may be wrong). It cracked even on my VW. Also a good licenced OBD can help a lot even for regeneration cycle. Use the correct Oil Dexos2 for the filter to regenerate it works with this one (sulfat levels or something) (sorry for the long text) Also please take extra care if you lift the car to secure before getting under it. God Bless! And Gooo Ryan! Awesome kid, good Father!
@@1895G thank you very much for your help. Thanks for taking the time to reply. That was very good of you. Ryan's away for a few day's. Thanks again, I hope you and your family have a great weekend and God bless...
Metal ones are crap. Don't go near it. Get a new one from the dealers. The seal can be changed without taking the engine out etc. If the gearbox has the 2 access holes, then you don't even need to tough the box. The only thing that has to be removed is the downpipe with the flexi. I do around 3 or 4 seals a week and if the holes are in the box, I can have it changed in an hour. If no holes it takes around 2 hours.
Hi Leon. There is an upgraded aluminium o ringed seal setup that's available to replace the oem seal. We have used them a lot with good success. Maybe worth a look into.
If they did sort things like that out, they wouldn't be selling engines or cars anymore, that y things these days don't last, repeat business & we all fall for it. 😂😂😂
GM they’re charge themselves 2K for that seal , their profit margins hidden around costs, and seems they have made many blunders of British Autos for decades
@@TheBwkaylor It's amazing some of the vehicles that are rebadged over there and sound and look completely different to what they are over here thanks a lot for that something I learnt today everyday is a learning day
Seal and oil pump on the preface, check rings for wear. Had mine done 18 months ago with the metal seal and been fine since. Didn't have any warnings prior, just done as prevention
Seal goes brittle and then fails to seal, thus lowering oil preasure, low oil preasure means the crank shaft bearings fail to get enough oil at high speeds and then seize.
Never heard of Insignia but from what he's saying sounds like the foreign engineering equivalent of Ford. They're made to blow up by 100k miles so you buy a new one.
No. You can take the bottom end of a Z19DTH and, with a little persuasion, put it on the A20. I have a Z19 from my old 9-3 in case the bottom end fails on my A20
Well I had my more than 5 years and it’s 2011 cdti Sri brilliant in every aspect this guy is talking rubbish all depends on how you maintain it simple 😂
@@bodgitandleggitgarage if you could come up with a quick fix you would make a fortune that's all I was trying to say. Selling kits for them talk to a good engineer
@@MyZxcvb12 In theory sounds like a good idea but will cost an absolute fortune To redesign it and manufacture something and the other thing is people just will not pay for it I've been telling people for a long time they need to replace the seals and people don't even want to pay for that job never mind a complete redesign Part
Ohh come on.. not a bad engine pfff it's a GM car we have them here it's a holden cruise total shit box.. if it doesn't seize it throws a timming belt at 60k km if your lucky I've seen some go a 45k. Total disappointment.
Bullshit . Worked for GM for years till 2014 tbh, and we only saw engines going down due to poor maintainance. The regulars who changed oil on time ( every 30.000 km ) didn’t had any problems . Timing belt 150.000 km . Not any problems . Could be that the waterpump is heavier in Australia due to higher temperatures .
Its one of that faults that vauxhall should have had a recall for.
Yep
@@bodgitandleggitgarageis it the same on the A28NER engine?
@@bodgitandleggitgarageON DIESEL SAME PROBLEM?
Along with their gearboxes, or a matter of fact just recall their cars and vans 😂
@user-oq1vu2wx8t it's only an issue on the A20 diesel engines.
The B20 (whisper engines) and petrol engines are not affected.
Planned failure
Special thanks to James Corden for the voiceover work...
These engines are so underrated. If you know about the issues and sort them, these things are bomb proof.
No
Ours went on for ages with only an alternator and a water leak playing up on us. We bought it at 180k and finished around the 220 mark
The seal done exactly what it's supposed to have done for them
Don’t I know it 2011 Astra 104000 miles fsh , first sign low oil pressure comes up on dash when the engine is started from cold , then a few months later boom 💥
😭😭
Weak link to create built in obsolescence
Well then all get together and make them pay for a new engine and redesign the problem.
From which year is that? Is there some manufacture years that are not affected?
2009 to 2016
It s not a stupid ideea, it s call marketing that seal can last the waranty period after that your engine it s seized and you buy another car.
I change the seal on mine every 3 years with oil and filter changes every 6 months. It's not a hard job once you have done it a few times.
Boom sorted The 2 bolts in between the gearbox and the engine there trickiest to do can be quite frustrating and annoying
Great motor FIAT
I have a 2014 sri line car is serviced when it's due all the time only has 79000 miles on it might change the seal just incase 🤔
dont bother you should never have to . did you know that if some parts seem expensive it's because they should never need replacing .
Wow that is stupid. Class action should be fair.
My BMW with the N47 engine seized at 107 k and I’m borrowing my dads 2011 insignia CDTI and it just hit 200k with no major work small bits and bobs like radiator pipe and small stuff like that
If you start getting low oil pressure warning on cold startup, get it changes. It’ll do another 200k
Same with Vauxhalls 6 speed gearboxes the 5th and 6th gear bearings seize up as they get starved if oil..
I have the same engine , so you need to take all engine out just for a seal ? Need to design a seal additive than can be added with oil changes that seals on the inside but still be able to get sump plug off when needed , just add every oil change
To paraphrase Mr Scott from Star Trek 3. The more they over think the plumbing, the easier it is to block the system 😂
What mileage would you think that gasket needs to be replaced? Cheers Leon
70k
What happens if it blows? Trashed engine or still fixable with a new seal?
Seen this loads the seal goes brittle cracks and comes away ive also heard from a few sources of main dealers programming the ecu's to stop the oil light coming on early as I say a few sources have said it if I believe thsm that's another story but I have seen those engines seized first hand ive ground a lot of cranks and seen a lot of blocks line bored
I’d disregard them. It’s too easy to prove. If so, lots of people would sue gm for the cost of replacement engines. Remember the VW emissions cheat
If drivers let these regen properly there would be no issue with the seal
Not even related. Bad oil is causing it.
Early ones had oil pump failure until they modified the pump
Interesting. Annoying there isn't a way to actually fix the fundamental flaw, like a better designed oil pickup. 🤷🏻♂️
Not good. Not good t all. Who is going to preemptively replace those?
Yes mate definitely not good
Oil pick up been failing for years on VX. Nearly as bad as the m32 gearbox they put in the first insignias.
Am i mad buying a cdti sri 2.0 112k then
You have probably saved a lot of people money with this.
They are a very good engine other than that cheap seal that isent very hard to change
Remove seized engine then make four holes in the floor of the car .. Now the occupants use their feet.
They only seize up because drivers ignore oil light on dashboard for weeks
No they don't. The seal goes brittle due to the car having unfinished regens. The diesel gets dumped into the sump causing the seal to harden.
thanks for the interesting video
Thank mate
I just don’t get it. We have been building cars for over 100 years but still can’t design an engine???
Because even with a proven design that works for years, people nowadays always have to CHANGE something.
😅😅😅
More money in engines that break than ones that last.
engineering is crap. i had a freelander. brutal engineering . but all manufacturers are guilty nowadays
..because the customer demands 200bhp AND 50MPG.
I just looked up my car the light just came on a few times took it to the garage they changed the flush and oil and filter and next morning it seized up on the way to work the light came on for a few seconds before it went off
Are these easy to swap out? I’ve read about it being a gearbox out job?
If it’s the same engine as they use in the Astra j it’s just a case of taking the exhaust off and dropping the sump there two bits recessed in the fly wheel to get at two of the bolts but there easy enough done
On (presumably) older versions, two holes are not present to gain access to those two bolts you mentioned. I even saw a video where a guy ground the case where they are missing to access them rather than separating the box 😮
Is this also the same issue on 2012 62 reg 2.0 cdti ? Or only for specific year?
Yes. All diesels from 2009 to 2016 that use the A20 engine....Insignia, Astra, Zafira are all affected.
Great Short!
I have just bought a 63 plate 2.0 diesel with 85k on the clock , should I change this seal ?
how much did you pay for yours with what mileage? im thinking of buying one
I would. You've no history and as the insignia has no indicator of when it's doing a regen, it's worth the preventative maintenance.
Do it when you change the clutch plate and dmf because some engines cannot access the Sump bolts unless you disconnect the transmission.
@@user-cn1em2qx6f £6000 with 85000
Amazing MPG and a great drive , would definitely recommend one
@@saidkhan7155 thanks for the advice, may need a new clutch soon as mine has a high biting point now
Can this be prevented with proper servicing. I’m not too sure about these but I know some newer cars service intervals are way to long. Is it a case of oil loosing its viscosity and the seal going hard or are they all just fucked anyways
Diesel in the oil from incomplete regens causes the seal to hard, meaning the pump draws air, this causes pump failure and subsequent oil starvation, causing bottom end seizure.
This part shouldn't just be a cheap seal that the pan pressed against it (usually the oil pickup is part of the bottom end and usually made of metal not plastic)
@@rudolphrocker8963 💯💯💯💯👍👍👍
Nothing to do with servicing. Failed regens cause it.
They changed the design in later engines
How later
What does the seal do?
Why is the engine seizing?
Its only in diesel?
Is it muck work to change? Thanks so much for your help. God bless...
The o-ring? or the engine? The engine is a (2.0 diesel A20DTH) the o-ring is not so difficult to change if you have worked on cars before, also if it's not 4x4 model (i have not worked on a 4x4 model just on my FWD one SO i just heard that is more difficult to work on the 4x4 one) you drain the oil, the bottom oil pan must be dismantled (be careful it is made of aluminium if it does not come off easy then cut the sealing with a cutter, do not force the pan with a screw so you will not form a dent on the sealing part) from what I remember there are some screws that are more difficult to access on the side with the gearbox, you can take them of but I don't remember how I did it (I can take a look for you if you need), I recommend looking for an aluminum o-ring for replacement (fixes the problem for life), I asked an acquaintance to make me one with built-in gaskets. (But you can find on sale a lot of options)
I used Victor Reinz silicone to form a thin gasket on the oil pan sealing surface, follow the instructions on the package (make sure not to enter excess in the Oil pan, bring the oil pan closer to the engine without touching it, fit a few screws so that it is attached but not touching the engine, slowly bring the screws closer until the oil pan touches the engine equally each one. if you change the engine, it's a lot of work (it can be removed with the gearbox on it, first engine ever replaced by me, i'm not a mecanic also you need another person to help from time to time i guided the engine out and in, while another person lifted it with the crane, you also need the old computer on the new engine to start). many components are worth replacing if you take the engine down, but it's not a good idea from a financial point of view. The gas cooler, admission intake with an improved one so the engine will not suck any flaps in and destroy itself. (I found one in Poland) engine seals etc. the reason why the gas cooler cracks is the clogged DPF filter from what I realised (I may be wrong). It cracked even on my VW. Also a good licenced OBD can help a lot even for regeneration cycle.
Use the correct Oil Dexos2 for the filter to regenerate it works with this one (sulfat levels or something) (sorry for the long text)
Also please take extra care if you lift the car to secure before getting under it.
God Bless!
And Gooo Ryan! Awesome kid, good Father!
@@1895G thank you very much for your help. Thanks for taking the time to reply. That was very good of you. Ryan's away for a few day's. Thanks again, I hope you and your family have a great weekend and God bless...
Metal ones are crap. Don't go near it. Get a new one from the dealers.
The seal can be changed without taking the engine out etc.
If the gearbox has the 2 access holes, then you don't even need to tough the box. The only thing that has to be removed is the downpipe with the flexi.
I do around 3 or 4 seals a week and if the holes are in the box, I can have it changed in an hour.
If no holes it takes around 2 hours.
@@Ken_Dodds_Tickling_Stick cheers friend 👍
@@1895G how do you know Ryan? Please
Hi Leon. There is an upgraded aluminium o ringed seal setup that's available to replace the oem seal. We have used them a lot with good success. Maybe worth a look into.
Hi mate thanks a lot for that information I did not know that I will definitely look into it
Do not use these as it restricts the oil flow at high speeds
The metal ones are totally crap.
If they did sort things like that out, they wouldn't be selling engines or cars anymore, that y things these days don't last, repeat business & we all fall for it. 😂😂😂
No one with a failed one of these is going to buy a replacement car from the same manufacturer.
U don’t need to take engine out ??
Can you show the tutorial how to change it some little diy?
GM they’re charge themselves 2K for that seal , their profit margins hidden around costs, and seems they have made many blunders of British Autos for decades
I have a 1.6 2011 Astra, does this have the same issue? Thanks
All A20DTH are prone to. Most 2009-2011 plate
I am going to by a 2015 2.0 cdti sri vx line does this affect this engine
Nope A20 diesel engines from 2009 to 2016
@@Ken_Dodds_Tickling_Stick is this possible to do DIY?
Or is it engine out?!
Is it the same 2.0l in the US? LGT
Hi mate to be honest I didn't even know these were available in the US in my experience the normally different engine so I cannot say for sure
@@bodgitandleggitgarage the 2017 Buick Regal is a re badged insignia.
@@TheBwkaylor It's amazing some of the vehicles that are rebadged over there and sound and look completely different to what they are over here thanks a lot for that something I learnt today everyday is a learning day
My a20dth insignia has the same problem but hasn't seized yet, any recommendations, new engine or do the seals an the shells???
Seal and oil pump on the preface, check rings for wear. Had mine done 18 months ago with the metal seal and been fine since. Didn't have any warnings prior, just done as prevention
@@rudolphrocker8963 👆💯👍
@@rudolphrocker8963 What were the symptoms?
Exactly what happened to my car seized
Mine too. 2015, 2.0 diesel.
Any notice before it happened
Done it and the engine still went man
Only the diesels are affected by the seal.
It's just good business. 📡👽🇺🇸 RUN!!!
So what happens ? Does it block the oil ?
Seal goes brittle and then fails to seal, thus lowering oil preasure, low oil preasure means the crank shaft bearings fail to get enough oil at high speeds and then seize.
@@peterwaine923 thankyou .
Stellantis don't care, they won't offer a fix. Too busy making milk floats.
So your putting in another factory seal that fails prematurly
What exactly would you like me to do
@@bodgitandleggitgarage How about weld in a permanent seal. Perfect forever fix.
done loads of them when i had my health
How about a non decaying seal design???
Petrol or diesel
Salut.. Am înțeles că se găsește și ștuț de metal de cumpărat...
*Opel* Insignia.
They would be better to make the seal out of plastic than have the rubber seal shrink.
Sounds abit like the ford power train transmission
Just change every 50.000km and you dont have any problem.
that seal shouldn't exist vauxhal should engineer it out of existence
Diesel only or petrol as well?
Diesel only, variations of the A20 2.0
Yes mate just Diesels
@@bodgitandleggitgarage What are the first symptoms of this seal failure?
No the silly seal is the problem, owners are the problem.
Is it the same in B16DTH?
Nope.
@@Ken_Dodds_Tickling_Stick thanks
Can siezed insignia engines be brought back to life?
New set of bearings and resurface crankshaft. That’s what is seizing the most in this case
I wouldn't expect anything more or less from GM
That is massive for a 2 litre thought it was a v6 😂
Is this just on the A20dth engine? As far as I was aware, this was solved on the B20dth wasn't it?
I am going to buy a 2015 2.0 cdti sri vx line does this affect this model please
Only the A20 engine. DTH, DTE, DTJ
Were you expecting anything more from a Pollock
Vauxhall insignia are good car the manufacturer didn't sort the seal out vauxhall have lot to answer for
yep
sooooooo.....what happened to the seal?? poor quality? disintegrated? do tell
I had a newer volvo with the same issue basically
😭
Never heard of Insignia but from what he's saying sounds like the foreign engineering equivalent of Ford. They're made to blow up by 100k miles so you buy a new one.
Vauxhall for ya
This same issue on the y19dth aswell ?
No. You can take the bottom end of a Z19DTH and, with a little persuasion, put it on the A20.
I have a Z19 from my old 9-3 in case the bottom end fails on my A20
No mate they do not have the same fault
@@bodgitandleggitgarage cheers pal
What about D20DTH engine?
Where can I get that seal from. Thanks
I mate from the main dealer
A home-made one piece copper pickup tube would solve that
That’s why all Vauxhalls are total cheap shite boxes
Well I had my more than 5 years and it’s 2011 cdti Sri brilliant in every aspect this guy is talking rubbish all depends on how you maintain it simple 😂
Is fiat right?
Think of a way to fix it .
You would like me to completely redesign the system
@@bodgitandleggitgarage if you could come up with a quick fix you would make a fortune that's all I was trying to say. Selling kits for them talk to a good engineer
@@MyZxcvb12 In theory sounds like a good idea but will cost an absolute fortune To redesign it and manufacture something and the other thing is people just will not pay for it I've been telling people for a long time they need to replace the seals and people don't even want to pay for that job never mind a complete redesign Part
@@bodgitandleggitgarage yeah I should have known people don't like paying for anything oh well not a good idea on my part 😅
Thats so stupid 😂
Made in Poland 😉
So, what's the problem with the seal? Is it because it was black but should be blue or pink? What a crap story.
Thank you😊
I thought insignia had everything, from shampoo to shower gel?
Deodorant and after shave, its one all over smell!!
And today I learn this!!?
Grandad cars, grandad engines 💤
Astra 1400 gtc had similar problem absolutely stupid idea.
Vauxhall have proved to be crap now. Stick with Honda or Toyota.
Unfortunately they have problems to every single car manufacturer does but definitely some more than others
Got an 07 Honda odyssey with 400,000 miles (640000 Km) on it. Original engine and transmission.
@@nicholasittzes7224 Yeah, that’s why it has got rear heated windows .
You have warm hands when you push it .
Ohh come on.. not a bad engine pfff it's a GM car we have them here it's a holden cruise total shit box.. if it doesn't seize it throws a timming belt at 60k km if your lucky I've seen some go a 45k. Total disappointment.
Bullshit . Worked for GM for years till 2014 tbh, and we only saw engines going down due to poor maintainance. The regulars who changed oil on time ( every 30.000 km ) didn’t had any problems . Timing belt 150.000 km . Not any problems .
Could be that the waterpump is heavier in Australia due to higher temperatures .
Next time your out in your car and see a car breakdown,i bet you 9 times out of ten it's a vauxhall 👎
Worst cars on the roads
Some people are or 3rd and 4th engines..
GM budget rubbish
Wait... Made in POLAND??? That's why this gasket sucks... Just kidding
Crap engine
There is now an upgrade, an aluminium seal with o rings so replace it once and never worry about it again. 👍
what year got the upgrade
The aluminium one is shit