In the video you say the channel drain grate needs to be 1/8" - 1/4" below top of concrete if cars are going to drive over it. Yet in your install demonstration for a driveway at the front of a garage it appears that the top of the concrete is below the level of the grate. Why?
Correct, looks like they did not follow their own instructions, but it would be difficult getting that 1/8 to 1/4” lip without some type of board going the entire width of the drain instead of using painters tape.
I have 2 Driveway slabs, that slope towards each other. (Sort of a gentle sloping V Shape) So how do you slope the channel drain itself? I get the 1" per 8 ft rule, but the drain situation I have, is negative. If I place the channel drain flush with the concrete, it wont slope to the side. It is probably about a 1" fall, Negative - to the channel drain, which means water will pool on the wrong side. I envision that the drain itself, will have to slope to compensate. So would I wind up with the channel drain being 1/8th inch recessed on the negative side, then about an inch recessed on the properly sloped side drain exit side? Would using the bottom drain outlet help with this? I figure the slope I am dealing with, would make the channel drain a lot lower than 1/8th, on that positive drain exit side.
I saw a video on another channel, they explained that concrete on either side of the drain holds the answer to your question. Wouldn’t the four inches concrete either side give you the leeway to obtain the fall that you seek? There is no rule the side concrete has to be any fixed angle as long as it slopes down to the drain, so it could have steeper fall at one end and less fall at the other end. Same with the width of the surround. It could be wider than four inches to soften harsh fall, even if it was one foot wide on either side to achieve this. I would just be placing the drain with the desired fall and then troweling the side concrete so that everything works.
Hi if installing into a paver pool deck, can the concrete be poured to less than flush with the top to allow a paver and some sand so that the pavers are flush with the top of the drain? My pavers are porcelain and only about 3/4" and I'd need about 1/2" of sand under the paver. So could the concrete pour be 1.25" shy of the top to allow for sand and paver? Or if you have some other method for this or instructions with pavers please let me know! I'd prefer to avoid thinsetting the paver in place next to the drain so they can be removed if needed. Thanks!
How can we connect the exit pipe to a sewage chamber directly, preventing bad odour, cockroaches, rodents to enter back in the pipe ? Pls advice as I am planning to install one of these solutions accordingly
Hi. I purchased the 5 inch nds channel drain and bought a 4 inch pvc elbow to tap into am existing drain pipe. The 4 inch elbow is way to big for the outlet. It says it's compatible with 4 inch pipe. Is the outer diameter of the outlet compatible with the inner diameter of the strait pvc pipe?
It's because there are two different sizing systems here. The channel drain's outlet fits what's called "Sewer Pipe" size. The ABS or PVC in your house is what's called "Schedule 40" size. Thus, a 3-inch "sewer pipe" and a 3-inch "Sched 40" pipe are slightly different sizes. To join the two, get a "sewer x schedule 40" adaptor fitting. They are sometimes labelled as "Sewer x DWV". Confusing, right? Hope this helps.
7:42 - looks to me like your twenty installers forgot to set the channel drain 1/8" to 1/4" below the top of the concrete so that cars won't destroy the channel drain??
I really can't fathom the cement on both side of the channel maintaining that optimum 1/4" height with all the back and forth troweling occurring to smooth things, the cement finds it's own level and cannot maintain that so-called 1/4" edge they mention. I would have designed the channel product at the factory with a built in 1/4" rise lip along the length of both side of each "put together" section so that the cement contractor could smooth to the top of that factory lip by default, if you are indeed understanding my point. I get your point about things not appearing right, my idea would be again, the redesigned product would have the top of "new lip design" positioned in the trench at exactly at the height of the cement flooring of the garage shown in this video then you proceed to add cement and trowel to perfection along the entire width of the garage and beyond.
I have purchased the 5" system kit and am also frustrated by lack of detail for installation - nothing worthwhile in print with the kit, and have only found this poor video online. Instructions to install 1/8-1/4" below concrete are given, with some poor examples shown on video, then video shows installers troweling next to drain. Drain is left proud in video, rather than recessed! Dumb. And instructions to cut channel to length are lousy, other than to cut between ribs. Says nothing about cutting the grate, nor drilling and countersinking new holes in the grate to secure it once you've shortened it and cut the screws off. Try to find the "Professional Welder" solvent glue they recommend! I will use some better all-weather flexible caulk sealant rather than silicone, which leaves little security of lasting adhesion.at the high cost of this system, put some effort into the finer details, for both proper installation, and instructions.ugh...the list of b.s. with this is too long.
Thanks for reaching out. We're sorry you havea experienced such frustration with this product. You have provided some great feedback on how we can improve our installation instructins and effort so thank you! We would like to asnwer any questions you might still have and also listen to any additional feedback. Please reach out to our technical services department techservice@ndspro.com. We look forward to hearing from you.
@@Ndspro You really didn't improve anything because I just bought some and its literally one page with very little information and poor black and white printing. I randomly came across this video by youtubing dyi drains.
@@Ndspro, 1FataLN is right, you guys didn't improve anything. I also just bought the channel drain and your instructional video is looking like it was made in early 90-ies with vhs tape. You did NOT recess the drain 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch, even your poor quality video is clearly showing this. You are telling to the guy above that you are happy to answer any questions but yet year later after the question you didn't do a s$@t to help him here, in your official UA-cam video. I also am curious if these guys are installing the drain in the gravel driveway? Do NOT tell me to reach you somewhere else, I am reaching you right here, so answer the question. I have a suspicion that whoever is answering these questions below this video, have no slightest idea of what people ask, hence the selective hearing on some of the questions but not on others. Your customer service is very poor. Shame on you.
So if I'm installing a 14' section, I need about 2" of rise from one end to the other. I guess the top needs to be sticking up above the asphalt whole inch on the left and then recessed by one inch on the far right? (not taking into account their 1/8" or 1/4" below the asphalt).
I was wondering about this too. They should have addressed it. It seems to me that they set the entire thing completely level. So there might be some residual water that remains in the channel, however after the rain stops that water will evaporate. That's just a guess though.
@@nofurtherwest3474 no slope is needed on the drain assembly only the exit pipe. Water will rise to the level of the exit either the bottom or side and exit.
@@mikez4132 But if you can provide slope it will handle more flow. It is better to provide slope, but I agree might not be absolutely necessary. Depends how much water is being routed to it in the max design situation.
AAARRRGGGH!!! I have the same question as others here - Why say to have the top of the grate 1/8" to 1/4" below and then not do this? Looks like this vid has been abandoned since I don't see any recent replies from the company. This is just sitting here collecting views and perhaps ticking over for the benefits.
In the suspension method it looked like the concrete was being floated flush w the channel grate?!?! Should have been an 1/8" - 1/4" below concrete lip.
I noticed the same thing. Would like to know what wiring the 1/8 - 1/4" board did since the end result looks like it is flush and the car tires would track right over it.
Yeah...somehow the 1/8” spacer disappeared when they were peeling the tape and it simply looked flush with the concrete. That spacer isn’t going to do any good if you don’t pour the concrete to the top of it and screed it off. I’m guessing the spacer should have cover the entire width of the channel in order to accomplish what the diagram showed.
How are you getting pitch in this drain? Doesn't say if it's a pre-sloped drain or you're pitching it. Video doesn't look like there's any pitch on the drain since it's sitting flush.
@@IsaacC20 and that's why you don't work for a trench drain company. If there was no need for pre-sloped drains, no one would make them, but guess what?
Ill be going with your system only issue I saw was no slope was mentioned at all and you also had a lip where the concrete on the side toward the driveway was lower than the grate meaning a puddle will need to form before this does anything.
The channel had a drain hole set in the bottom, so sloping the channel was probably not necessary as it would function much like a bathtub drain. Though sloping would help move water along, the 1% of slope mentioned for the drain pipe would probably be about right for the channel drain itself as well.
I'm just gonna get steel grates and get a channel made and throw some rain gutters in the channel to run off into the French drain off the side of the driveway.
I don’t work for the company producing this video but yes, in my experience, you ideally want the channel drain to slope so the water will start moving downhill the moment it enters the channel. If you are able to attach the final exit pipe to the underside of the channel drain’s tail section so the water can drop downward, a sloping channel drain system is not 100% necessary because even a level-bottom reservoir will eventually drain if you put a hole in the bottom- the same way a bathtub drains when you pull the plug. But a designed-in slope will certainly make a channel drain system more efficient. If your location doesn’t lend itself to installing the channel drain on a slant, you might want to look at a pre-sloped channel drain system like the Dura Slope made by NDS. It’s sold in 4-ft sections that snap together, with each section manufactured to be deeper than the last. For instance, the shallowest 4-ft-long section is 4” deep on one end and 4.5” deep on the other end. Then that connects to a section that’s 4.5” deep on one end and 5” on the other, and so on until it gets to a section that’s 12” deep, should you need to go that far. The idea is that the top of the channel is level throughout its length while the bottom gets deeper and deeper until it reaches the exit pipe. It’s commercial grade and crazy expensive if you need to a channel drain longer than 12 feet or so but it is nonetheless a brilliant solution to this kind of problem.
I called NDS two separate times with two different people. Both said they can be installed level but there should be an outlet every 30 ft. The channel itself isn't sloped internally but water simply floods the channel and exits through the pipe.
Did you actually price this out? I know this comment comes 3 years later, but I have been pricing out 4-5" grates, and they are more expensive than this system. I.e. the grate itself is more expensive than this system which comes with a grate. If you have some insight into how to build a drain gulley and cover it and have it be cheaper than this system, let me know.
Is it me or am I just stupid? If you want the drain recessed 1/4 in below grade, why is the concrete poured at grade? Why do these videos sound more like a school or saftey video at work instead of sounding like normal people having a conversation?
Drain is 1/4 below grade for water to flow at pitch into drain. Concrete poured at grade then sloped too drain grade, concrete must be at grade to allow grade level throughout slab surround.
Seems like potentially a lot of concrete to mix and pour. Is there any reason we could not just line the bottom with bricks/cementblocks/whatever to support the drain then pour the cement on the sides around it? The brick/blocks would bring it up to the proper level of course.
Hoping someone at NDS could clarify a question - Can two sections of Pro Series channel drain be sloped toward each other, and drain near/at the connection point? Does the connection allow for this change in slope, or does a special adapter need to be purchased? In my application, I'd like to have 4 meters on each side (8 meters total) coming to common drain outlet on bottom.
I don't understand, the video states you must install the channel 1/8 to 1/4" recessed below the concrete, to prevent the wheels of a car from hitting the top of the channel. I get that, but the video shows, that after poured the concrete is actually flush with the top of the channel. If a car tire rolled over it, the full weight of the car would be directly on top of the channel.
mtrcyclemark yeah. You're 100% correct. They installed it flush with the drain. The piece of wood they put on top would have to be as wide as the drain and the concrete would have to be even with the wood on top.
3dsman I can see the trowel is below the top of the channel. Yes, cover the entire width of the channel w the thinnest plywood and concrete up to its edge.
NDS Stormwater Management What exactly elbow or pipe fits snugly onto bottom outlet? I was at Lowes today looking for the right elbow or fitting. NOTHING fits it right. Even your own manufactured elbows do NOT fit bottom outlet snugly. Sdr35 stuff loose, sch40 doesn’t fit at all and white drain pipe or elbows do not fit either. Are you guys aware of that? Do not tell me that on your CAD it fits perfectly, go on the floor and try to find elbow or pipe which. Would fit. Also, are you aware that 5” channel drain with plastic grate and one with metal grate have DIFFERENT bottom outlets, although both of them claim fitting the same type of pipe?
I didn’t heard anything about sloping the drainage towards to the output drain (to this example towards left). Better drain for the water. Do you need it? Thanks for sharing.
Yes always slope your drains. It doesn't matter what it is if its 2", 3" or 4" always keep the minimum in mind of 1/8" of slope for everything. If you can manage a 1/4" slope that's even better.
my concern too. the rule of thumb is 1/8 to 1/4" per foot! That would put one end of a 12 foot drain at least 1-1/2" lower on one end - not flush with the garage opening........
I'm getting ready to install 102' in one area & 36' in another. Using the rebar method & your Video is saying to lift it all at once. Let a lone stack bricks under each section so they can be secured to the rebar.
Have you ever heard of the contractor letting the end of the drainage system lead to underground the driveway? I never heard of that, but he said it would be risky to have it lead out of the retaining wall towards the house (approx 35 + feet away) I’m trying to figure out if he half assed it or if that is plausible ? Please help! Thanks!!
Need a little more context to the situation. Are you saying it was piped under the driveway and out at a better location on the other side of the driveway? Ask the contractor what kind of pipe they used. If it’s that black flexible pipe or sched 20 pvc I’d advice them to remove and replace with schedule 40pvc so it doesn’t collapse and be worthless
Since the "channel" is flat on the bottom (ie where the water drains) shouldn't you pitch the channel like any other drain? maybe they mentioned it but i don't remember seeing that in the video.
hi, my trench would be 33', do i need a pitch or need 2 outlet at each end? unfortunatly, i can only install one outlet at one end, do you think it gonna be ok?
also, plastic grate or metal grate? which one is better? regarding plastic grate color will fade, or metal one finally will rusted actually, someone said the stainless screw rusted after a year. thank you very much for your response
@@roger1046 Hi, Roger, to choose plastic or metal grate is upon your requirement and applications. Plastic or polymer grate only for A15 and B125 (pedestrian,bicycle and small loading grades).Hope this can be useful.Kind regards.Kevin
no. it will exit at the bottom or side exit. water cannot defeat gravity once it enters opening for the exit pipe. Water takes takes the path of least resistance. This is drainage fundamentals.
I didn't see anything about the pitch when suspending the drain (1" drop per 8 ft). In case of the car situation, the left side would be 1/4' below the concrete and the end would be about 2.25" below the concrete in this project?
I can’t seem to find an elbow that fits properly around the 3” or 4” lip at the bottom of the drain. Several guys at Home Depot couldn’t figure it out either. I ended up going with a rubber fitting. What do you recommend?
NatalieGarfield24 no pipe, fitting or elbow truly fits bottom outlet. Period! All of them are horribly loose. I do not think these guys know this. They are the type of engineers who never will do any of this themselves. They will not answer your question because they are so arrogant that they think it’s you who do something wrong because in the CAD it all fits fine. Isn’t it NDS?
The bottom outlet is designed to fit either 3" or 4" sewer and drain (S&D) pipe. This pipe is typically white in color, not the heavier green SDR35 or the even heavier white SCH40. 4" sewer and drain pipe has an outside diameter of 4.215 inches and a minimum wall thickness of 0.075 inches, which calculates as having a Standard Dimensional Ratio (SDR) of 56.2. But, this pipe is not rated by SDR number. You'll see on the bottom outlet that there are two rings. The larger outer ring has an outside diameter of 4.215 inches, and the smaller inner ring has an outside diameter of 3.250 inches. This matches the diameter of 4" and 3" sewer and drain pipe, respectively. You'll need a matching coupling, elbow, tee, or belled end, to make the connection. Hope this is helpful.
Actually two comments. First, before you seal off the grate and pour concrete, put spacers, maybe 1/32 inch thick between each side of the grate and the plastic sidewall. Otherwise, the concrete will push the sidewall tight against the grate and make it difficult to impossible to remove the grate for cleaning. Second, the video does not address using the cutouts along the side of the channel for drain pipe. Since these do not have pipe fittings, NDS customer service says to just cut, fit and use Silicone to seal the pipe and then let the concrete stabilize the joint.
Hello! As long as the channel has been properly secured to prevent any lifting during the concrete pour, it is not necessary to glue the sections together. Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any additional questions. Thanks!
Can this be used in grass? I have a soggy back yard from a sump pump pop out and was thinking this could help run the water further back to the easement by my fence.
Hi Tamara! Thanks for reaching out. Channel drains are used to take surface water and move it to another location for it to safely discharge. We recommend installing these drains in concrete so they may withstand any load that may go over them and resist the expansion and contraction due to the heat and cold. If you have a single area where your sump pump discharges the water, you may want to install a catch basin here, and attach pipe to run out to a safe location for discharge. If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to reach out to our technical services department TechnicalServices@ndspro.com
I think you may need french drain pipe. (Ag pipe). Because from the looks of it your yard is over flowing with water. Which means even if you install one of these NDS it will only collect surface water and not the water inside the ground. French pipe is the opposite, it collects all the water in the ground and does not allow or to overflow. You could still use NDS for surface water if the ground is on a slope(sloping towards the house) and all the water is coming to the house
Go with a French Drain. Lots of work but worth the effort. My friend and I just put in one over 100-foot long. Works magnificently, just as she and I hoped. Go with the higher-grade underground pipe with the holes in it, not the kind that one finds at Lowe's or Home Depot. Worth it.
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. The driveway is actually sloping towards the drain so that the water drains into it before getting into the garage. In this particular residence, the slope isn't very deep so it's hard to see on camera.
@@louiskim5101 water will exit at the opening either the side or bottom. there is no way water can remain in the pipe during rain. It rises to the level of the hole and exits. The path of least resistance is the drain hole and exit pipe. The exit pipe is sloped at that point to carry the water away from the drain assembly.
Learn how you can improve your driveway and landscape drainage with the following tips curated by construction pros limitlessgoldenconstruction.com/drainage-solutions-for-driveways-and-landscape/
I used pvc cleaner and the pvc glue(red can). I had to dig it up and discovered that the glue did not hold the end cap onto the drain. This caused the drain system to fail. What kind of glue should I use?
Hi Thomas! The 5” pro deep profile is made from HDPE, not PVC. We recommend using welder's adhesive to attach the end cap to the channel. Pleae don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions technicalservices@ndspro.com
If Finland invented a new way to count hours, instead of 60seconds/minutes they used 100 seconds and the entire world thought it was a better system, why should we change? What we have works great.
Yea, we know the metric system is better. We should change to it and any logical American knows that. Why don't we change? Why did we elect Trump? Sometimes I just don't understand about my own people. I think it's human nature to figure out any and every reason you can think of to support how you feel even if you know its not what's best for you it just feels good. Trying to change the system of measurements I have used my whole life to quantify the world around me would suck. But I would be willing to do it so you have me, now just convince at least half of the remaining 327 million Americans and your done.
Hi Chris! Thanks for your question. This channel drain supports medium duty tire traffic, autos and light trucks travelling at speeds less than 20 mph. If you have experienced any breakage under these parameters please reach out to our tech services department so we can assist you (techservice@ndspro.com). Thank you.
@@Ndspro it appears you are stating this particular channel is rated for “Class B. Loads of 61 - 175 psi. Recommended for medium-duty pneumatic tire traffic, autos and light trucks at speeds less than 20 m.p.h.” Thus following Load Standard DIN19580 / EN1433. With this info I will simply install the channel flush with the concrete with 4” under, and be done with it. My application is Residential garage floor drain.
Most drain recommendations now are to have a concrete bed of 2 inches for the channel to sit on before you pour anything into it..
maybe I'm missing something but neither example with the concrete pour looked like they were recessed below the the poured concrete ....
How are we supposed to get the 1/2” lip of concrete if we have no block the concrete from coming overtop the channel?
In the video you say the channel drain grate needs to be 1/8" - 1/4" below top of concrete if cars are going to drive over it. Yet in your install demonstration for a driveway at the front of a garage it appears that the top of the concrete is below the level of the grate. Why?
Correct, looks like they did not follow their own instructions, but it would be difficult getting that 1/8 to 1/4” lip without some type of board going the entire width of the drain instead of using painters tape.
plastic or metal drain?
I have 2 Driveway slabs, that slope towards each other. (Sort of a gentle sloping V Shape) So how do you slope the channel drain itself? I get the 1" per 8 ft rule, but the drain situation I have, is negative. If I place the channel drain flush with the concrete, it wont slope to the side. It is probably about a 1" fall, Negative - to the channel drain, which means water will pool on the wrong side. I envision that the drain itself, will have to slope to compensate. So would I wind up with the channel drain being 1/8th inch recessed on the negative side, then about an inch recessed on the properly sloped side drain exit side? Would using the bottom drain outlet help with this? I figure the slope I am dealing with, would make the channel drain a lot lower than 1/8th, on that positive drain exit side.
I saw a video on another channel, they explained that concrete on either side of the drain holds the answer to your question. Wouldn’t the four inches concrete either side give you the leeway to obtain the fall that you seek? There is no rule the side concrete has to be any fixed angle as long as it slopes down to the drain, so it could have steeper fall at one end and less fall at the other end. Same with the width of the surround. It could be wider than four inches to soften harsh fall, even if it was one foot wide on either side to achieve this. I would just be placing the drain with the desired fall and then troweling the side concrete so that everything works.
very informative! But how to install it between pavers? please advise.
Yo! Surprised you folks don’t know a pick from a mattock. Stay safe.
Hi if installing into a paver pool deck, can the concrete be poured to less than flush with the top to allow a paver and some sand so that the pavers are flush with the top of the drain? My pavers are porcelain and only about 3/4" and I'd need about 1/2" of sand under the paver. So could the concrete pour be 1.25" shy of the top to allow for sand and paver? Or if you have some other method for this or instructions with pavers please let me know! I'd prefer to avoid thinsetting the paver in place next to the drain so they can be removed if needed. Thanks!
That seems like it would make sense. I am looking at a 10-inch section of channel drain here and your description sounds like it would work.
How can we connect the exit pipe to a sewage chamber directly, preventing bad odour, cockroaches, rodents to enter back in the pipe ? Pls advice as I am planning to install one of these solutions accordingly
Mitravind Garg You can’t
Connecting storm water to a sanitary system is not per code or allowed. Sewage treatment plants are set up to treat just sewage not storm runoff.
@@lilqman2012 Thanks for replying
@@sailorweer707 Thanks for replying
Hi. I purchased the 5 inch nds channel drain and bought a 4 inch pvc elbow to tap into am existing drain pipe. The 4 inch elbow is way to big for the outlet. It says it's compatible with 4 inch pipe. Is the outer diameter of the outlet compatible with the inner diameter of the strait pvc pipe?
Adam Gonzales Maybe try using SDR35. Its diameter is slightly different than sch40 pvc. 👍😃
It's because there are two different sizing systems here. The channel drain's outlet fits what's called "Sewer Pipe" size. The ABS or PVC in your house is what's called "Schedule 40" size. Thus, a 3-inch "sewer pipe" and a 3-inch "Sched 40" pipe are slightly different sizes. To join the two, get a "sewer x schedule 40" adaptor fitting. They are sometimes labelled as "Sewer x DWV". Confusing, right? Hope this helps.
No this is all wrong,
Return it.
How would this work if you have a gravel driveway? Would you still need concrete?
Matthew Davis most likely.
Yes
❤️❤️🙏🙏
7:42 - looks to me like your twenty installers forgot to set the channel drain 1/8" to 1/4" below the top of the concrete so that cars won't destroy the channel drain??
ya, no shit.
I really can't fathom the cement on both side of the channel maintaining that optimum 1/4" height with all the back and forth troweling occurring to smooth things, the cement finds it's own level and cannot maintain that so-called 1/4" edge they mention. I would have designed the channel product at the factory with a built in 1/4" rise lip along the length of both side of each "put together" section so that the cement contractor could smooth to the top of that factory lip by default, if you are indeed understanding my point. I get your point about things not appearing right, my idea would be again, the redesigned product would have the top of "new lip design" positioned in the trench at exactly at the height of the cement flooring of the garage shown in this video then you proceed to add cement and trowel to perfection along the entire width of the garage and beyond.
🎉🎉🎉🎉⁷
I have purchased the 5" system kit and am also frustrated by lack of detail for installation - nothing worthwhile in print with the kit, and have only found this poor video online. Instructions to install 1/8-1/4" below concrete are given, with some poor examples shown on video, then video shows installers troweling next to drain. Drain is left proud in video, rather than recessed! Dumb. And instructions to cut channel to length are lousy, other than to cut between ribs. Says nothing about cutting the grate, nor drilling and countersinking new holes in the grate to secure it once you've shortened it and cut the screws off. Try to find the "Professional Welder" solvent glue they recommend! I will use some better all-weather flexible caulk sealant rather than silicone, which leaves little security of lasting adhesion.at the high cost of this system, put some effort into the finer details, for both proper installation, and instructions.ugh...the list of b.s. with this is too long.
Thanks for reaching out. We're sorry you havea experienced such frustration with this product. You have provided some great feedback on how we can improve our installation instructins and effort so thank you! We would like to asnwer any questions you might still have and also listen to any additional feedback. Please reach out to our technical services department techservice@ndspro.com. We look forward to hearing from you.
@@Ndspro You really didn't improve anything because I just bought some and its literally one page with very little information and poor black and white printing. I randomly came across this video by youtubing dyi drains.
Oh also nothing about rebar in the instructions...
@@Ndspro, 1FataLN is right, you guys didn't improve anything. I also just bought the channel drain and your instructional video is looking like it was made in early 90-ies with vhs tape. You did NOT recess the drain 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch, even your poor quality video is clearly showing this. You are telling to the guy above that you are happy to answer any questions but yet year later after the question you didn't do a s$@t to help him here, in your official UA-cam video. I also am curious if these guys are installing the drain in the gravel driveway? Do NOT tell me to reach you somewhere else, I am reaching you right here, so answer the question.
I have a suspicion that whoever is answering these questions below this video, have no slightest idea of what people ask, hence the selective hearing on some of the questions but not on others. Your customer service is very poor.
Shame on you.
@@gedym5443 it may be your approach... JS.
So if I'm installing a 14' section, I need about 2" of rise from one end to the other. I guess the top needs to be sticking up above the asphalt whole inch on the left and then recessed by one inch on the far right? (not taking into account their 1/8" or 1/4" below the asphalt).
I was wondering about this too. They should have addressed it. It seems to me that they set the entire thing completely level. So there might be some residual water that remains in the channel, however after the rain stops that water will evaporate. That's just a guess though.
@@nofurtherwest3474 no slope is needed on the drain assembly only the exit pipe. Water will rise to the level of the exit either the bottom or side and exit.
@@mikez4132 But if you can provide slope it will handle more flow. It is better to provide slope, but I agree might not be absolutely necessary. Depends how much water is being routed to it in the max design situation.
@@alexander0194 for sure good follow up point!
@@mikez4132 oh my god - that seems so obvious now that you said it. And I've just bent over backwards to make sure there was a slope in my drain!
AAARRRGGGH!!! I have the same question as others here - Why say to have the top of the grate 1/8" to 1/4" below and then not do this? Looks like this vid has been abandoned since I don't see any recent replies from the company. This is just sitting here collecting views and perhaps ticking over for the benefits.
good. visual is big aid to my dyslexic brain.
In the suspension method it looked like the concrete was being floated flush w the channel grate?!?! Should have been an 1/8" - 1/4" below concrete lip.
I noticed the same thing. Would like to know what wiring the 1/8 - 1/4" board did since the end result looks like it is flush and the car tires would track right over it.
Yeah...somehow the 1/8” spacer disappeared when they were peeling the tape and it simply looked flush with the concrete. That spacer isn’t going to do any good if you don’t pour the concrete to the top of it and screed it off. I’m guessing the spacer should have cover the entire width of the channel in order to accomplish what the diagram showed.
How are you getting pitch in this drain? Doesn't say if it's a pre-sloped drain or you're pitching it. Video doesn't look like there's any pitch on the drain since it's sitting flush.
It fills up and drains through the outlet. I don't see why it needs to be pre-sloped.
@@IsaacC20 and that's why you don't work for a trench drain company. If there was no need for pre-sloped drains, no one would make them, but guess what?
Ill be going with your system only issue I saw was no slope was mentioned at all and you also had a lip where the concrete on the side toward the driveway was lower than the grate meaning a puddle will need to form before this does anything.
The channel had a drain hole set in the bottom, so sloping the channel was probably not necessary as it would function much like a bathtub drain. Though sloping would help move water along, the 1% of slope mentioned for the drain pipe would probably be about right for the channel drain itself as well.
1:15 thats a lot of companies to call.
lol I was thinking the same thing. man o man a lot of work
I'm just gonna get steel grates and get a channel made and throw some rain gutters in the channel to run off into the French drain off the side of the driveway.
does the channel drain need to be sloped to drain ?
I don’t work for the company producing this video but yes, in my experience, you ideally want the channel drain to slope so the water will start moving downhill the moment it enters the channel.
If you are able to attach the final exit pipe to the underside of the channel drain’s tail section so the water can drop downward, a sloping channel drain system is not 100% necessary because even a level-bottom reservoir will eventually drain if you put a hole in the bottom- the same way a bathtub drains when you pull the plug. But a designed-in slope will certainly make a channel drain system more efficient.
If your location doesn’t lend itself to installing the channel drain on a slant, you might want to look at a pre-sloped channel drain system like the Dura Slope made by NDS. It’s sold in 4-ft sections that snap together, with each section manufactured to be deeper than the last.
For instance, the shallowest 4-ft-long section is 4” deep on one end and 4.5” deep on the other end. Then that connects to a section that’s 4.5” deep on one end and 5” on the other, and so on until it gets to a section that’s 12” deep, should you need to go that far. The idea is that the top of the channel is level throughout its length while the bottom gets deeper and deeper until it reaches the exit pipe.
It’s commercial grade and crazy expensive if you need to a channel drain longer than 12 feet or so but it is nonetheless a brilliant solution to this kind of problem.
I called NDS two separate times with two different people. Both said they can be installed level but there should be an outlet every 30 ft. The channel itself isn't sloped internally but water simply floods the channel and exits through the pipe.
@@IsaacC20 How did it go? I'm installing a drain soon with the length of 27 feet. Interested to know if it drains.
can you install this with gravel instead of concrete? No cars will go over it
I wondered the same thing! I mean, if the channel drain is in a trench and surrounded/locked in by aggregate, where’s the drain gonna go?
That's it. I'm gonna get a steel grate and just build the whole trench out of concrete.
Maybe a roof gutter as a liner would help.
Agreed, the plastic stuff isn't going to work for my garage areas with my vehicles and how bad the rain is.
Did you actually price this out? I know this comment comes 3 years later, but I have been pricing out 4-5" grates, and they are more expensive than this system. I.e. the grate itself is more expensive than this system which comes with a grate. If you have some insight into how to build a drain gulley and cover it and have it be cheaper than this system, let me know.
Is it me or am I just stupid? If you want the drain recessed 1/4 in below grade, why is the concrete poured at grade? Why do these videos sound more like a school or saftey video at work instead of sounding like normal people having a conversation?
Drain is 1/4 below grade for water to flow at pitch into drain. Concrete poured at grade then sloped too drain grade, concrete must be at grade to allow grade level throughout slab surround.
I’m replacing a concrete driveway with asphalt …can the channel drain be installed with asphalt instead of concrete? Thanks
Anderson Linda Harris Mark Brown Michelle
Seems like potentially a lot of concrete to mix and pour. Is there any reason we could not just line the bottom with bricks/cementblocks/whatever to support the drain then pour the cement on the sides around it? The brick/blocks would bring it up to the proper level of course.
Hoping someone at NDS could clarify a question - Can two sections of Pro Series channel drain be sloped toward each other, and drain near/at the connection point? Does the connection allow for this change in slope, or does a special adapter need to be purchased? In my application, I'd like to have 4 meters on each side (8 meters total) coming to common drain outlet on bottom.
They might be on break.
I'm doing this same thing. DId you end up cutting the channel so you'd have two pieces, with a bottom outlet drain for each piece?
I don't understand, the video states you must install the channel 1/8 to 1/4" recessed below the concrete, to prevent the wheels of a car from hitting the top of the channel. I get that, but the video shows, that after poured the concrete is actually flush with the top of the channel. If a car tire rolled over it, the full weight of the car would be directly on top of the channel.
You can see 1/8" on a UA-cam video? I doubt it.
The point is, Einstein, the UA-cam video skips over how exactly to do this step. Thanks for your interest in helping out here.
mtrcyclemark yeah. You're 100% correct. They installed it flush with the drain. The piece of wood they put on top would have to be as wide as the drain and the concrete would have to be even with the wood on top.
3dsman I can see the trowel is below the top of the channel. Yes, cover the entire width of the channel w the thinnest plywood and concrete up to its edge.
The "pro" made it wrong.
Kerala available shop? Or India
NDS Stormwater Management
What exactly elbow or pipe fits snugly onto bottom outlet? I was at Lowes today looking for the right elbow or fitting. NOTHING fits it right. Even your own manufactured elbows do NOT fit bottom outlet snugly. Sdr35 stuff loose, sch40 doesn’t fit at all and white drain pipe or elbows do not fit either. Are you guys aware of that? Do not tell me that on your CAD it fits perfectly, go on the floor and try to find elbow or pipe which. Would fit. Also, are you aware that 5” channel drain with plastic grate and one with metal grate have DIFFERENT bottom outlets, although both of them claim fitting the same type of pipe?
I didn’t heard anything about sloping the drainage towards to the output drain (to this example towards left). Better drain for the water. Do you need it? Thanks for sharing.
Yes always slope your drains. It doesn't matter what it is if its 2", 3" or 4" always keep the minimum in mind of 1/8" of slope for everything. If you can manage a 1/4" slope that's even better.
my concern too. the rule of thumb is 1/8 to 1/4" per foot! That would put one end of a 12 foot drain at least 1-1/2" lower on one end - not flush with the garage opening........
@ 7:23 they have a 1/4" piece of wood top of drain hard to tell at end but it's there..
Why is your drain flush with the concrete and not 1/4" below as you advise on the video?
In fact, it even looks to be slightly above the concrete lol
@@nofurtherwest3474 it 100% is above the concrete at least an 1/8 of an inch above LOL
No PVC glue, what's the silicone for?
To seal the seams
HOW DO YOU SUSPPEND THE 8 OR 12 INCH CHANNEL? THERE IS NO REBAR CLIP.
For A DIY, IT Seems straight forward process
Good instruction... get rid of the annoying music please!
I'm getting ready to install 102' in one area & 36' in another. Using the rebar method & your Video is saying to lift it all at once. Let a lone stack bricks under each section so they can be secured to the rebar.
Have you ever heard of the contractor letting the end of the drainage system lead to underground the driveway? I never heard of that, but he said it would be risky to have it lead out of the retaining wall towards the house (approx 35 + feet away) I’m trying to figure out if he half assed it or if that is plausible ? Please help! Thanks!!
Need a little more context to the situation. Are you saying it was piped under the driveway and out at a better location on the other side of the driveway? Ask the contractor what kind of pipe they used. If it’s that black flexible pipe or sched 20 pvc I’d advice them to remove and replace with schedule 40pvc so it doesn’t collapse and be worthless
Mud will get inside
Since the "channel" is flat on the bottom (ie where the water drains) shouldn't you pitch the channel like any other drain? maybe they mentioned it but i don't remember seeing that in the video.
Hi Jason! As long as there is an outlet spaced at a maximum of 20' water will flow.
hi, my trench would be 33', do i need a pitch or need 2 outlet at each end? unfortunatly, i can only install one outlet at one end, do you think it gonna be ok?
also, plastic grate or metal grate? which one is better? regarding plastic grate color will fade, or metal one finally will rusted actually, someone said the stainless screw rusted after a year. thank you very much for your response
@@roger1046 Hi, Roger, to choose plastic or metal grate is upon your requirement and applications. Plastic or polymer grate only for A15 and B125 (pedestrian,bicycle and small loading grades).Hope this can be useful.Kind regards.Kevin
So I only need 1 of these to cover the width of a walking path. It only comes with one end cap. Do you have to buy the other ?
Thank you so much. I am excited about getting this project done.
so if i get 3" and mount it 1/2 below the concrete it should hold the load from a car driving over it, right?
How do you create a bottom outlet that is centered?
Since there is no cloth membrane covering the top of the channel what keeps it from filling up with dirt or other debris?
The grates are removable to clean any of that out. Should have fairly clean runoff on a concrete surface.
Great vid. Thanks 👍
Thank you for the great video
Why do you show silicone being used to attach the pipe but then say you have to use welders adhesive?
There's no fall in the channel!? So water will just sit..
no. it will exit at the bottom or side exit. water cannot defeat gravity once it enters opening for the exit pipe. Water takes takes the path of least resistance. This is drainage fundamentals.
I didn't see anything about the pitch when suspending the drain (1" drop per 8 ft). In case of the car situation, the left side would be 1/4' below the concrete and the end would be about 2.25" below the concrete in this project?
I think you set it completely level. You don't want it angled as you're driving over it.
Some of these drains have a built in pitch.
I was about to ask the same question!
I dont get it, it doesnt make sense
The water will build up, at level, then it will go out the drain pipe which is PITCHED towards the exit point.
I can’t seem to find an elbow that fits properly around the 3” or 4” lip at the bottom of the drain. Several guys at Home Depot couldn’t figure it out either. I ended up going with a rubber fitting. What do you recommend?
NatalieGarfield24 no pipe, fitting or elbow truly fits bottom outlet. Period! All of them are horribly loose. I do not think these guys know this. They are the type of engineers who never will do any of this themselves. They will not answer your question because they are so arrogant that they think it’s you who do something wrong because in the CAD it all fits fine. Isn’t it NDS?
I have the same situation
The bottom outlet is designed to fit either 3" or 4" sewer and drain (S&D) pipe. This pipe is typically white in color, not the heavier green SDR35 or the even heavier white SCH40. 4" sewer and drain pipe has an outside diameter of 4.215 inches and a minimum wall thickness of 0.075 inches, which calculates as having a Standard Dimensional Ratio (SDR) of 56.2. But, this pipe is not rated by SDR number. You'll see on the bottom outlet that there are two rings. The larger outer ring has an outside diameter of 4.215 inches, and the smaller inner ring has an outside diameter of 3.250 inches. This matches the diameter of 4" and 3" sewer and drain pipe, respectively. You'll need a matching coupling, elbow, tee, or belled end, to make the connection. Hope this is helpful.
Thank you
Actually two comments. First, before you seal off the grate and pour concrete, put spacers, maybe 1/32 inch thick between each side of the grate and the plastic sidewall. Otherwise, the concrete will push the sidewall tight against the grate and make it difficult to impossible to remove the grate for cleaning. Second, the video does not address using the cutouts along the side of the channel for drain pipe. Since these do not have pipe fittings, NDS customer service says to just cut, fit and use Silicone to seal the pipe and then let the concrete stabilize the joint.
Thanks
well done
It's not mentioned, but shouldn't the segments be glued together as well (either with silicone or some kind of PVC cement)?
Hello! As long as the channel has been properly secured to prevent any lifting during the concrete pour, it is not necessary to glue the sections together. Please don't hesitate to reach out if you have any additional questions. Thanks!
Haha they are like cheap toys,
Don’t buy these, they are very very poorly made and designed. You’ll end up with screws and silicone everywhere.
Can this be used in grass? I have a soggy back yard from a sump pump pop out and was thinking this could help run the water further back to the easement by my fence.
Hi Tamara! Thanks for reaching out. Channel drains are used to take surface water and move it to another
location for it to safely discharge. We recommend installing these drains in concrete so they may withstand any load that may go over them and resist the expansion and contraction due to the heat and cold. If you have a single
area where your sump pump discharges the water, you may want to install a catch basin here, and attach pipe to run out to a safe location for discharge. If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to reach out to our technical services department TechnicalServices@ndspro.com
I think you may need french drain pipe. (Ag pipe).
Because from the looks of it your yard is over flowing with water. Which means even if you install one of these NDS it will only collect surface water and not the water inside the ground.
French pipe is the opposite, it collects all the water in the ground and does not allow or to overflow.
You could still use NDS for surface water if the ground is on a slope(sloping towards the house) and all the water is coming to the house
Go with a French Drain. Lots of work but worth the effort. My friend and I just put in one over 100-foot long. Works magnificently, just as she and I hoped. Go with the higher-grade underground pipe with the holes in it, not the kind that one finds at Lowe's or Home Depot. Worth it.
do you need a fall in the channel drain or is it set level?
Thats what i was looking for as well! They talk about the drainage pipe fall but not the channel! Fundamental!
They forgot the slope the drain downhill, made it level with the slab... ooops...
Hello! Thanks for reaching out. The driveway is actually sloping towards the drain so that the water drains into it before getting into the garage. In this particular residence, the slope isn't very deep so it's hard to see on camera.
@@Ndspro yeah but when the water reaches the drain its not falling towards the end outlet.. so it's gonna sit.
@@louiskim5101 water will exit at the opening either the side or bottom. there is no way water can remain in the pipe during rain. It rises to the level of the hole and exits. The path of least resistance is the drain hole and exit pipe. The exit pipe is sloped at that point to carry the water away from the drain assembly.
What a load of bolloks
811 in my country will get you a public health nurse 🙂
How can I find your people in Vancouver ?
Learn how you can improve your driveway and landscape drainage with the following tips curated by construction pros limitlessgoldenconstruction.com/drainage-solutions-for-driveways-and-landscape/
Looks like you are in Jacksonville, Florida.
Lol, yea it's easy when you don't have a driveway already, which is basically............nobody
How much for square foot?
Is there no need for a spirit level ????
1% or maybe 1° ????
1° on their catalog.
I used pvc cleaner and the pvc glue(red can). I had to dig it up and discovered that the glue did not hold the end cap onto the drain. This caused the drain system to fail. What kind of glue should I use?
Hi Thomas! The 5” pro deep profile is made from HDPE, not PVC. We recommend using welder's adhesive to attach the end cap to the channel. Pleae don't hesitate to reach out if you have any further questions technicalservices@ndspro.com
I want this how to delivery products
Guys, it's time to go metric, you're driving the whole world crazy.
Fuck the metric system and the world. The is MERICA we do it our way.
If Finland invented a new way to count hours, instead of 60seconds/minutes they used 100 seconds and the entire world thought it was a better system, why should we change? What we have works great.
Yea, we know the metric system is better. We should change to it and any logical American knows that. Why don't we change? Why did we elect Trump? Sometimes I just don't understand about my own people. I think it's human nature to figure out any and every reason you can think of to support how you feel even if you know its not what's best for you it just feels good. Trying to change the system of measurements I have used my whole life to quantify the world around me would suck. But I would be willing to do it so you have me, now just convince at least half of the remaining 327 million Americans and your done.
No thanks.
American and resistant to metric until I die. Except for my Japanese motorbikes.
❤️❤️🙏🙏
has anyone had problems with this product breaking because a vehicle ran over it?
Hi Chris! Thanks for your question. This channel drain supports medium duty tire traffic, autos and light trucks travelling at speeds less than 20 mph. If you have experienced any breakage under these parameters please reach out to our tech services department so we can assist you (techservice@ndspro.com). Thank you.
@@Ndspro it appears you are stating this particular channel is rated for “Class B. Loads of 61 - 175 psi. Recommended for medium-duty pneumatic tire traffic, autos and light trucks at speeds less than 20 m.p.h.” Thus following Load Standard DIN19580 / EN1433. With this info I will simply install the channel flush with the concrete with 4” under, and be done with it. My application is Residential garage floor drain.
ok
For long run installations is there a sloped system available?
NDS has what is called Duraslope Trench Drains that are designed for this situation.
Yeah make you're own out of concrete and steel grating.
We are making one now in an existing concrete walkway.
Sounds great! But what if it is negative 30 degree?
use abs pipe
there should not be flowing water at neg 30. Think of your downspout drain pipes. Ice dosnt flow. It may melt in the sun and drip but will re freeze.
Wait until summer and install it then.
SORRY FOR POOR SPELLING