In this video, I used a little too much water. It's fine as I can leave the bottle open and it can evaporate off but I'd recommend using less than shown. Maybe half and just let it sit for a few nights. I was in a hurry to get my point across but the paint works fine when reconstituted.
I'm always having to add water to this paint to use anyway so I was pretty sure this completely dried out bottle would reconstitute. If I soaked it longer, I think it would have been much easier to get it back into solution but the little mixer did a good job with it.
This bottle was probably sitting around for about 17 years to get that way. It would have mixed back into solution if I soaked it for a few more days but wanted to see what I could do quickly. Such a great paint.
Right. This video was an example of a bottle sitting around for probably 5-10 years and reconstituting the paint. If the paint is moist, it's usually a few drops of water depending on the amount of paint you'll need for the project. Doesn't have to be a perfect consistency though. There's a lot of leeway as the paint is very opaque thick or semi-thin.
I just bought a 3rd bottle thinking the 2 I had went bad 🤦♀️🤦♀️ thanks.. I’m taking my last purchase back and reconstituting what I have..awesome. I’m surprised I never threw out the other bottles…
Yes, it's a very fast drying paint so, if you have a bottle sitting around for a while, it will dry out. When you reconstitute, just mix what you need. I did the whole thing in this vid but that's because this one was as hard as a rock. I usually just put in a few drops of water and mix up what I need (in the bottle) which is a relatively small for my projects. I get it to a thick syrup consistency.
@@stampscapes thanks ..I’m getting ready to fix a spot on watercolor painting… will try/test first but can I add paint to the white ? Or paint the white , dry n then paint color I want on top the white? Or does both methods work 🤦♀️
@@kathbiddle-dutton7069 That's a good question. Dr. Martin's is designed to really white out an area and has different characteristics than your typical white watercolor paint so it would probably depend on the value of the color(s) that you're applying. I would do a little mix on your palette (with the watercolor and Bleed Proof) to see what that looks like mixed and then maybe if that looks good, do a little swatch on the back of the watercolor paper (if that's what you're using for the painting) and allow to dry. This white, too, could have a different texture from the other paints so see if it will blend visually to your satisfaction. I take it, the painting has translucent and opaque applications (using white mixed in with the colors) and not solely transparent washes? But, that's what I'd do. Then, if it didn't blend well with the rest, I'd go for the white out and then coloring on top. I haven't tried it (with watercolors) before in my painting days because we were using gouache with Dr. Martin's -which merged fine.
A lot of very old bottles of the medium! lol. I don't know the first time I used it in a scene but that would have been a bottle from my college days and it was probably sitting around for 10 years, at least, before I thought to use it. It was probably completely dried out like the one in this vid.
Thanks for this information. I need to get me some of this bleed proof! I love the results you get with it in your pictures. Question? Where do you get the paper reem you work over? Is there a brand you get. It looks larger than an 8 1/2x 11 I see this in all your videos. Thanks in advance.
The Bleed Proof is such a great medium for scenes. Oh, it would be great in your lighthouse scene splattered a little by the crashing rocks. The paper I'm using under my pieces is some legal sized copy paper. I also have some 11" x 17" tabloid. I didn't even know I had these until I cleaned and organized my work space in January. I usually use standard letter size but figured the larger might be better for my larger scenes. I probably picked up the legal at just some office supply store like Office Depot years ago. The tabloid was probably purchased at Kelly Paper I'm guessing as I'm not sure if office supply stores have that size of paper off the shelf or not. There's probably several brands on Amazon too. Just some cheap copy paper will do.
@@stampscapes thanks 🙏. I like how you use it. Just remove it when stamped over but first always turning it over. I’ll get me some. Also it will give cushion to my stamping. Thanks again for all your advice.
Cleaning my art room and found this dried out bottle…so glad I watched you. My next project…thank you..
In this video, I used a little too much water. It's fine as I can leave the bottle open and it can evaporate off but I'd recommend using less than shown. Maybe half and just let it sit for a few nights. I was in a hurry to get my point across but the paint works fine when reconstituted.
@@stampscapes Thank you. Worked fine…
That was my question too.
How much water should I add as most mediums have a limit (which have passed to often)!
I'm so glad I didn't discard my dried out bottle! Thank you!
I'm always having to add water to this paint to use anyway so I was pretty sure this completely dried out bottle would reconstitute. If I soaked it longer, I think it would have been much easier to get it back into solution but the little mixer did a good job with it.
So far my bottle is still good, but this sure is a good thing to remember, just in case. Thanks for showing this.
This bottle was probably sitting around for about 17 years to get that way. It would have mixed back into solution if I soaked it for a few more days but wanted to see what I could do quickly. Such a great paint.
Thank you as just got my first bottle & it’s not dry but now know don’t add to much water.
Right. This video was an example of a bottle sitting around for probably 5-10 years and reconstituting the paint. If the paint is moist, it's usually a few drops of water depending on the amount of paint you'll need for the project. Doesn't have to be a perfect consistency though. There's a lot of leeway as the paint is very opaque thick or semi-thin.
I just bought a 3rd bottle thinking the 2 I had went bad 🤦♀️🤦♀️ thanks.. I’m taking my last purchase back and reconstituting what I have..awesome. I’m surprised I never threw out the other bottles…
Yes, it's a very fast drying paint so, if you have a bottle sitting around for a while, it will dry out. When you reconstitute, just mix what you need. I did the whole thing in this vid but that's because this one was as hard as a rock. I usually just put in a few drops of water and mix up what I need (in the bottle) which is a relatively small for my projects. I get it to a thick syrup consistency.
@@stampscapes thanks ..I’m getting ready to fix a spot on watercolor painting… will try/test first but can I add paint to the white ? Or paint the white , dry n then paint color I want on top the white? Or does both methods work 🤦♀️
@@kathbiddle-dutton7069 That's a good question. Dr. Martin's is designed to really white out an area and has different characteristics than your typical white watercolor paint so it would probably depend on the value of the color(s) that you're applying. I would do a little mix on your palette (with the watercolor and Bleed Proof) to see what that looks like mixed and then maybe if that looks good, do a little swatch on the back of the watercolor paper (if that's what you're using for the painting) and allow to dry. This white, too, could have a different texture from the other paints so see if it will blend visually to your satisfaction. I take it, the painting has translucent and opaque applications (using white mixed in with the colors) and not solely transparent washes? But, that's what I'd do. Then, if it didn't blend well with the rest, I'd go for the white out and then coloring on top. I haven't tried it (with watercolors) before in my painting days because we were using gouache with Dr. Martin's -which merged fine.
@@stampscapes thanks..I’m testing it. Very small spot on painting probably not real noticeable but I’m anal 🤣🤣🤣
Im an expert at this since I always rely on that ink for my mistakes lol. But I can't believe you saved a bottle from so many years ago....
A lot of very old bottles of the medium! lol. I don't know the first time I used it in a scene but that would have been a bottle from my college days and it was probably sitting around for 10 years, at least, before I thought to use it. It was probably completely dried out like the one in this vid.
Thanks for this information. I need to get me some of this bleed proof! I love the results you get with it in your pictures.
Question? Where do you get the paper reem you work over? Is there a brand you get. It looks larger than an 8 1/2x 11 I see this in all your videos. Thanks in advance.
The Bleed Proof is such a great medium for scenes. Oh, it would be great in your lighthouse scene splattered a little by the crashing rocks. The paper I'm using under my pieces is some legal sized copy paper. I also have some 11" x 17" tabloid. I didn't even know I had these until I cleaned and organized my work space in January. I usually use standard letter size but figured the larger might be better for my larger scenes. I probably picked up the legal at just some office supply store like Office Depot years ago. The tabloid was probably purchased at Kelly Paper I'm guessing as I'm not sure if office supply stores have that size of paper off the shelf or not. There's probably several brands on Amazon too. Just some cheap copy paper will do.
@@stampscapes thanks 🙏. I like how you use it. Just remove it when stamped over but first always turning it over. I’ll get me some. Also it will give cushion to my stamping. Thanks again for all your advice.