TIP: Whenever I do drum brakes, I pull both wheels and drums on the same axle. Then I work on ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Leave the other side together as a guide so you can see how everything goes back together on the side you're working on. OH...And don't forget. Use the necessary curse words while doing a job like this. Don't worry about it. It's part of the job and helps you with frustrating parts of the job. It's the cheapest tool you have in your tool box.
Many people do both sides at the same time and when they are gonna put it back together again they just stand there and scrach their head lol. Taking a picture does also help a lot :)
That's how my dad taught me to do it. Did it that way for years until I knew every spring by heart. Now I don't need to, but that's after several decades of doing my own brakes on multiple vehicles. Once you've done a few, drum brakes aren't that hard.
Yep - if I don't do it that way, I forget how everything goes back together. Been doing that since my first auto repair project 30 years ago this month!
I replaced those shoes on an '04 CR-V once, (same parts as your Element, which I'm sure you knew). I had the same problem with the rotor not going back on. The reason was the parking brake cable was seized up and was basically pulling the shoes outward, even when the brake wasn't engaged. I replaced the cables and that fixed it.
I've had this happen once or twice. Instead of taking a layer off of the braking material, I take it back apart and use a grinder to just nick the notches in the shoe at the top where the shoe strut (that bar at the top that goes between the shoes) and at the bottom where the adjuster sits. Just bump them on the grinder to take a few thousands off all four notches. Everything should go back together nicely and you get to keep maximum life on the shoes.
I always wondered how the hand-brakes worked with reard disc brakes. Planning to do a replacement soon, and hope I won't need to shave down the brake shoes.
Hi Eric, I watched two dozens of videos and did not find them well-descriptive. Your video is the best and most helpful that shows everything in good details. You took enormous amount of efforts to make this video like a professional demonstration of everything. The illustrations were very clear that a blind man with good ears can do the job. The most important things were the tips and multiple way of doing things to get the job done. Most important THING in this video is your commentary. You have a very impressive voice; you are blessed to do commentary; I picture you working as an anchor or news caster in CNN or Fox or big media. You voice has a strong viberation, clear as a whistle, good volume and your English pronunciation was excellent. I am an alien in USA and speak and hear English language as a non-native. But your commentary was as if I was listening something to my own language. You are a great TEACHER and technically you are sound; on spot problem solver. Thank you very much for sharing this with others. I live in the country side and towing would cost me 350 US Dollars plus I just had cancelled my AAA membership two months ago after having it active for 7 years and used it only 3 times. There are 68 dislikes and those are the guys who cannot teach people how to peel off a banana and cut it in two equal parts because the banana is not straight to measure; so ignore them. Your dedication on preparing this video is well appreciated. God bless you. Keep up the good work.
I haven't done drum brakes in years but I'm fixing to do this on the wife's 08 CRV. I'm glad there is a ETCG video on this. Your explanation is thorough and entertaining. Thanks, Eric.
I used your hammer trick on rotor screws the other day for my TL. Original rotor screws. 10lb sledge took them off. Without your advice, it wouldn't have been possible. Next is rear brake shoes. Great minds think alike!
Thank you for leaving that " oops" in there. that was just perfectly funny and shows the amount of times it fails and goes flying when dealing with springs
You're awesome man! Thank you. I've used your videos several times for different things. You always come through with sound advice, down to earth, and keeping it simple. I'm a diy'er mechanic and love doing my own maintenance on my vehicles. That's the only way to guarantee that it'll be done right and that all the parts are being used. I cannot tell you how many times I've been billed for parts only to come back in and see old rusted parts back in. Thats what prompted me to start doing my own.. It may or may not mean anything to you, but I appreciate what you do brother. Keep it up 👍
Hey I was just there on my 04 Blazer this week. Replaced not only the shot parking brake shoes, but opened the 7.5 rear end up and pulled the axle shafts out to replace what was left of the rusted out backing plates, new diff cover, new ceramic brake pads, new calipers, new rotors, all new hardware, and a complete brake fluid flush. She's good for another 200k miles now!
Great video Eric, I saw someone give a demo of how to adjust the parking break but didn’t show what it looked like. You showed me what it actually looks like instead of a whole with a screw driver going up and down.
Oh man, I've only ever done parking brake shoes once, when I did a disc brake conversion on one of my cars. Tiiiny little itty-bitty everything! Worst bit was, because it was using the assembly from a completely different vehicle, and the hub assembly from the vehicle I was converting, the parking brake assembly had to come off to take the hub off. HAD to work around it. Not fun... LOL My drum shoe replacement toolkit consisted of two tools: A small (not pocket) flathead screwdriver, and a pair of needlenose pliers. I feel like I've tried just about every "special" tool on the market, and nothing worked better for me than a flathead and some needlenosers.
A must watch for me, I love it when you’re working on the Honda element I own one of my self,Still waiting for someone to put out a video , inner tie rod replacement on a Honda element there are no videos on this and none of them completely show how to take them off and put them back in, keep up the great work Eric and please try to do more Honda element repair videos ,thank you!
G'day Eric and greetings from Tasmania Australia I was just looking at your channel which was the first mechanical video on UA-cam that I saw and at that time I was looking to do work on my car myself, and it prove invaluable because you saved me a lot of money over the years. I was doing work on the truck that I would never have done. I stopped watching because my rheumatoid arthritis started to get worse to the extent of two knee and hip replacements, so I lost interest however now I am awake most nights and I find watching you Eric almost therapeutic to help with the pain, anyway I looked forward to watching the channel again, kind regards John PS I reckon that's the same bottle of anti seize you had when you started the channel
Really appreciate your laid back approach. Your videos always teach me something new. And when I'm desperate for info, I know I will probably find an answer to my question on your channel.
I've looked through so many videos about doing this job and they are all pretty much the same. Although there were a couple of things I'll do differently to your suggestions, you covered some very important points which I was looking for information on but couldn't find anything. Great video and I'm impressed that you don't just do the same as everyone else and assume that everything will go to plan. Keep up with these types of reviews. Cheers from the UK!
I'd just like to express appreciation for taking the time to do the work with greasy gloved hands WHILE manipulating the camera's focus and all that jaz. Nice work, man.
I reuse my adjustors too. I cleaned and coated mine with nickel the first time i took them off. And i use a small part i fabricobbled from some junk i had to keep an o-ring on the threads, so no rust can get to the threads where i can't coat them sufficiently lest they seize. New stuff just doesn't feel right when you touch it, you're 100% right on that.
I remember when I first started to become a technician. One of the first jobs I had in a shop was to change break shoes on a drum/hat configuration in maybe an 82 model Corvette Stingray. I knew exactly what to do, but due to the lack of hands on experience, it took a little while. Lol For those of you reading comments, make sure to wear safety glasses while working with these springs.
When I worked for my dad, and I was in high school, I nearly took my eye out by using needle nose pliers on a spring. They slipped off the spring and still in my hands, landed in my eyebrow. Yes, safety glasses a must.
Thank you, Eric, for posting, as I was at odds on how to do this until I found your video, as you do all the hard first work for us to make the job that much easier.
Having been spoiled with the caliper mounted ebrake of my 08 Si, I was nervous when I saw the setup on my 2020 86. Thank you so much for this video E!!! Happy birthday if it's your birthday!!
PSA : rear drum brakes are no joke. I recommend you outsource this job that is generally due at 90K for hard drivers & 125K for gentle drivers. I studied several UA-cam videos. I downloaded the service manual. I bought specialty drum brake tools. I was just going to clean & regrease where the pads contact the back plate. Seemed like a straightforward procedure with my UA-cam knowledge & couple pages of service manual exploded PDF's. What took 5 minutes on a UA-cam toke over an hour on one drum for me ( I've done struts, front brakes, radiator swaps, alternator swaps before, so I'm not a beginner) I studied the picture I took of the ," before ." I after struggling for an hour, I finally reassembled and doubled checked my assembly. Well after taking a short test drive, and not having resistance from my console area parking brake handle, I open the drum again. Turns out, in my 10+ attempts at finessing the springs and position of pads & levers, I discovered that somehow the parking brake cable came off from it's attachment point and got sheared off. So now I created a $350 premature rear brake job for myself. Lesson learned .
Great and descriptive video of a parking break job. Takes time, nothing goes as planned the first try and everything is pretty much a hassle and fiddling. 😀
Nice job. Thanks for the video; very informative. Like your calm approach to doing what otherwise is a difficult job. I learned a long time ago that there are several ways to do anything so best to do it the way your most comfortable. If it works for you, then it's right.
I was replacing pads and rotors when the parking brake lining scaled off. To be honest I didn't know what it was at first but it looked ugly, super rusted and the inside of the rotor is very worn. Got lucky and found this video and see what is going on and am replacing the parking brake pads. Thanks!
I've watched you since pretty much the beginning...well, since I ran into your videos some 10 or so years ago. I must say any knowledge I've gained, an confidence I've drawn to attempt to do my own stuff, is because of YOU!!!! Thank you for all you do. Take care Eric! P.S., I ran into your "A Day At The Shop With EricTheCarGuy' recently. That was posted 4 years ago. I wonder a that would look like today?
What a FANTASTIC video!! I feel confident I can manage this now…especially after all the pitfalls you’ve described and resolved. Can you apply this same format into a video about raising children? Thanks
Same problem here - shoes are rubbing. But there is no adjustment at the wheel in the 2001 Volvo S60. I may have to remove material as you did. Great vid. Thanks.
I did not notice if you sanded down the rust ridge along the outer edge of the rotor. This could have prevented the rotor from being reinstalled. Hard to believe the pad had too much friction material. I also like to sandpaper the inside of the rotor to remove rust and have cleaner contact with the pad. Great video.
The rotors were only a few weeks old and did not have a rust ridge. Also, keep in mind this technically isn't a brake so prepping the surface of the pad and drum really isn't necessary. Thanks for your comment.
This is the first video I have seen from you. I really like how you take the time to explain as you're getting a very nice close up view of what you're talking about. Thank you for making a great video.... I just subscribed.
I unnecessarily removed the parking brake hardware to change out the hub and bearing on my 2001 MDX. Your video is not quite the same but it certainly helped in reassembly. The "before" photo I took did not adequately show placement of the parts. Thanks.
Thanks for posting this video. The parking brake I kinda shy away from due to all the parts and possibly putting something in wrong. You make it look easy, a bit trying but not as bad as I thought. I appreciate your hard work doing these videos and sharing your knowledge. Happy pre Memorial Day.
On the backing plate there are slightly elevated contact points on it. The brake shoes' frames come in constant contact with them. The service manual says they should be greased. I use a waterproof, multi purpose, heavy duty, synthetic polymer EP grease for the job. An EP grease is a perfect choice for chassis points, universal joints, pins, bearings, bushings, slide and cam mechanisms, etc.
Eric, you have given me confidence that I can accomplish this frustrating job. I admire your calmness and persistence. Although, we would all love to see the outtakes of this video showing you cursing , kicking the trash can and throwing your wrenches across the garage. Lol Seriously, nice video, thank you.
Yes, it can help a great deal with installing the disc if you plan on reusing it. However in my case the rotors were only a few weeks old and there was no rust ridge to be concerned about.
Once again Eric thanks for posting these videos. There are very helpful. Oh and a reminder also stay safe from the COVID-19 so we can see more of these videos
That shake and break is badass never saw one of those so it air hammers it and then you turn it at the same time, nice! I generally use a impact the kind you hit with a hammer had pretty good luck with the too.
I just did 3 parking brake jobs in the past few weeks. First was a set on a '06 Impala - royal PITA!!! It's the stupid horseshoe design, single shoe, and not a single cut on the side of the hub for access. They want you to remove the rusty hub bearing assembly, which will inevitably result in unplanned replacement, since it's frozen inside the knuckle. I managed to get the horseshoe over the hub - wasn't easy, and I had to create a press out of a wood clamp to bend the horseshoe back 1/4" to its proper size afterward. A small price to pay for saving both rear hub bearing assemblies. What a steaming pile of dung design!!! I also fought with a '12 Ram 1500 parking brake shoe replacement a couple weeks back. The hub on that is also nearly the same diameter as the shoes, so access is miserable. The retaining clip for the nails needs to be compressed to fit behind the hub! Goes flying, then you have to fish it out of the bottom of the parking brake shoes, drag it up into place, then compress it to get the nail through and then turn it 90° to lock! What a barrel of fun that was as well! After that I did a '04 Highlander, but that was easy compared to the 2 domestic turds. Some engineers need to be tarred and feathered!! 😡
Hi Eric just watched this very good video of yours . I am about to replace the shoes on my car ( Vauxhall Antara ) and I now feel much better about the job ahead. Thanks for making me feel better about this . 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Thanks for this. I have been dealing with a rubbing noise on my express cargo van for weeks and I had no idea where it was coming from because the sound never went away even when braking. The mechanic took it apart and found out the parking brake shoes were cracked and loose and making the rubbing/clicking noise. Interesting to see how they will replace it
Hey Eric, another outstanding video! -Is removing shoe material a common occurrence? -Did you compare the old adjuster with the new? If the new one is shorter, the shoe engagement would be slightly less. Just trying to help, not criticize.
I can confirm the replacement adjusters are shorter than the original. When at minimum adjustment, the original adjuster spreads the shoes 51mm vs 47.5mm for the replacement. I couldn't get the hat over the shoes with the original adjuster, but it was easy with the replacement one.
I've just done the same job, and came across the same problem ,drum brake would not go on . After watching your vid I now know what I need to do Thanks .
Smashing job :-D, But you missed the word "Dykes" out when talking about plyers :-D I'm sure you used to say that, or i could be mad... yep. Maybe adjusting the handbrake nuts will shorten the clickage (Technical term) :-D.
It's interesting because it's easier to say than diags because they were diagonal cut pliers. The metamorphosis of terms. And it's amazing how many words have been hijacked.
@@spacecat7247 Just think about the word 'Gay', to be very happy and no worries. Now hijacked for saying your sexual/mental need is for the same gender . A very crude discription.
Excellent video I just tackled these in my garage after I was done I could not get the rotors over the shoes. I figured it was the aftermarket brake shoes that I got from 1A Auto but it was the fact that I was trying to use the OEM adjuster when i ended up having to use the aftermarket adjuster. The aftermarket adjuster let the shoes close enough to put the rotors on and adjust. Perhaps this was part of your issue as well? Thanks again!
YEAH More ELEMENT videos ! Thanks Eric. Too bad I don't have mine anymore..... I did this before and USE OEM PARTS aftermarket parts make this job horrible!
Nice work Eric they can be fun to do always have to remember where all the little parts go now when i do drum brakes i always take a picture so i know where everything goes Thanks....
CHEVY IMPALA2009, in the Haynes guide for Chevrolet Impala and Monte Carlo, shows that you have to disassembly the hub. But the tool you need is a press, that's the missing detail. I spent hours doing that just to find out too late.
***Use the NEW adjuster*** unless you want a bad time. 2003 CR-V here. Same setup and part numbers. Both the aftermarket and genuine Honda replacement adjusters are ever so slightly shorter than the original ones. I too liked the feel of the original adjuster better, so tried to use it initially. The hat was definitely not going over the shoes. I took a swear break and then swapped out for the aftermarket adjuster and the dang rotor/drum pops on like it should. I have genuine Honda shoes and a Raybestos hardware kit that looks identical to the one in the video. The original adjuster holds the shoes 51mm apart at minimum adjustment, vs 47.5mm for the replacement part. Extremely helpful video otherwise.
thanks for your detailed step by step, but I believe that you only installed the upper springs--two on each side--but you said there are three on each side, so I'm assuming the missing springs were to go on the bottom?
After so many years, your videos are still the most detailed series on UA-cam for older CRV and Element.
TIP: Whenever I do drum brakes, I pull both wheels and drums on the same axle.
Then I work on ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Leave the other side together as a guide so you can see how everything goes back together on the side you're working on.
OH...And don't forget. Use the necessary curse words while doing a job like this. Don't worry about it. It's part of the job and helps you with frustrating parts of the job. It's the cheapest tool you have in your tool box.
Many people do both sides at the same time and when they are gonna put it back together again they just stand there and scrach their head lol. Taking a picture does also help a lot :)
That's how my dad taught me to do it. Did it that way for years until I knew every spring by heart. Now I don't need to, but that's after several decades of doing my own brakes on multiple vehicles. Once you've done a few, drum brakes aren't that hard.
@@tommyaleks100 with today's phones, yeah, that works. When I was pulling wrenches for a living, I didn't have this luxury.
@@Inquisitor6321 Yeah I see ya. Same here. One side at a time is the best thing.
Yep - if I don't do it that way, I forget how everything goes back together. Been doing that since my first auto repair project 30 years ago this month!
I replaced those shoes on an '04 CR-V once, (same parts as your Element, which I'm sure you knew). I had the same problem with the rotor not going back on. The reason was the parking brake cable was seized up and was basically pulling the shoes outward, even when the brake wasn't engaged. I replaced the cables and that fixed it.
I've had this happen once or twice. Instead of taking a layer off of the braking material, I take it back apart and use a grinder to just nick the notches in the shoe at the top where the shoe strut (that bar at the top that goes between the shoes) and at the bottom where the adjuster sits. Just bump them on the grinder to take a few thousands off all four notches. Everything should go back together nicely and you get to keep maximum life on the shoes.
The question is: Will I ever own a grinder before I am laid to rest? haha
Possibly the most informative videos I've seen on car maintenance. 5 stars sir.
Never knew about a parking brake shoe setup inside a rotor. Learn something everyday!
I always wondered how the hand-brakes worked with reard disc brakes.
Planning to do a replacement soon, and hope I won't need to shave down the brake shoes.
Hi Eric, I watched two dozens of videos and did not find them well-descriptive. Your video is the best and most helpful that shows everything in good details. You took enormous amount of efforts to make this video like a professional demonstration of everything. The illustrations were very clear that a blind man with good ears can do the job. The most important things were the tips and multiple way of doing things to get the job done. Most important THING in this video is your commentary. You have a very impressive voice; you are blessed to do commentary; I picture you working as an anchor or news caster in CNN or Fox or big media. You voice has a strong viberation, clear as a whistle, good volume and your English pronunciation was excellent. I am an alien in USA and speak and hear English language as a non-native. But your commentary was as if I was listening something to my own language. You are a great TEACHER and technically you are sound; on spot problem solver. Thank you very much for sharing this with others. I live in the country side and towing would cost me 350 US Dollars plus I just had cancelled my AAA membership two months ago after having it active for 7 years and used it only 3 times. There are 68 dislikes and those are the guys who cannot teach people how to peel off a banana and cut it in two equal parts because the banana is not straight to measure; so ignore them. Your dedication on preparing this video is well appreciated. God bless you. Keep up the good work.
I haven't done drum brakes in years but I'm fixing to do this on the wife's 08 CRV. I'm glad there is a ETCG video on this. Your explanation is thorough and entertaining. Thanks, Eric.
What a Classic EricTheCarGuy video, it brings back a lot of memories of videos gone by. Great job!
Thank you!
I feel your pain, I just did regular rear drum brakes on two vehicles, not hard but time consuming, great video 👍😁
I also just did drum brakes on 2 vehicles and it wasn't hard, yet time consuming.
I used your hammer trick on rotor screws the other day for my TL. Original rotor screws. 10lb sledge took them off. Without your advice, it wouldn't have been possible. Next is rear brake shoes. Great minds think alike!
Thank you for leaving that " oops" in there. that was just perfectly funny and shows the amount of times it fails and goes flying when dealing with springs
I Remember the rotor screw removal video that was like ten years ago I’ve been watching Eric that long
You're awesome man! Thank you. I've used your videos several times for different things. You always come through with sound advice, down to earth, and keeping it simple. I'm a diy'er mechanic and love doing my own maintenance on my vehicles. That's the only way to guarantee that it'll be done right and that all the parts are being used. I cannot tell you how many times I've been billed for parts only to come back in and see old rusted parts back in. Thats what prompted me to start doing my own.. It may or may not mean anything to you, but I appreciate what you do brother. Keep it up 👍
you need to replace thoses backing plates pal.
Hey I was just there on my 04 Blazer this week. Replaced not only the shot parking brake shoes, but opened the 7.5 rear end up and pulled the axle shafts out to replace what was left of the rusted out backing plates, new diff cover, new ceramic brake pads, new calipers, new rotors, all new hardware, and a complete brake fluid flush. She's good for another 200k miles now!
Great video Eric, I saw someone give a demo of how to adjust the parking break but didn’t show what it looked like. You showed me what it actually looks like instead of a whole with a screw driver going up and down.
Oh man, I've only ever done parking brake shoes once, when I did a disc brake conversion on one of my cars. Tiiiny little itty-bitty everything! Worst bit was, because it was using the assembly from a completely different vehicle, and the hub assembly from the vehicle I was converting, the parking brake assembly had to come off to take the hub off. HAD to work around it. Not fun... LOL
My drum shoe replacement toolkit consisted of two tools: A small (not pocket) flathead screwdriver, and a pair of needlenose pliers. I feel like I've tried just about every "special" tool on the market, and nothing worked better for me than a flathead and some needlenosers.
Great step by step instruction, I now feel confident in changing my Honda CRV handbrake shoes. Thank you Eric
A must watch for me, I love it when you’re working on the Honda element I own one of my self,Still waiting for someone to put out a video , inner tie rod replacement on a Honda element there are no videos on this and none of them completely show how to take them off and put them back in, keep up the great work Eric and please try to do more Honda element repair videos ,thank you!
It's but it's just common sense to do it
Zone B ?
Mustang Joe it’s common sense to replace the inner tie rods on this vehicle
@@mustangjoe8352 it should be similar to other Honda's as they have similar suspension pal
G'day Eric and greetings from Tasmania Australia I was just looking at your channel which was the first mechanical video on UA-cam that I saw and at that time I was looking to do work on my car myself, and it prove invaluable because you saved me a lot of money over the years. I was doing work on the truck that I would never have done. I stopped watching because my rheumatoid arthritis started to get worse to the extent of two knee and hip replacements, so I lost interest however now I am awake most nights and I find watching you Eric almost therapeutic to help with the pain, anyway I looked forward to watching the channel again, kind regards John PS I reckon that's the same bottle of anti seize you had when you started the channel
Really appreciate your laid back approach. Your videos always teach me something new. And when I'm desperate for info, I know I will probably find an answer to my question on your channel.
I've looked through so many videos about doing this job and they are all pretty much the same. Although there were a couple of things I'll do differently to your suggestions, you covered some very important points which I was looking for information on but couldn't find anything.
Great video and I'm impressed that you don't just do the same as everyone else and assume that everything will go to plan.
Keep up with these types of reviews.
Cheers from the UK!
BIG TIP. Do one side at a time. So if you need to see how it goes back together you can look at the other side for reference
And use phone to take pictures after each thing was removed..for reference ....or can just google the heck out of it if don't.
I'd just like to express appreciation for taking the time to do the work with greasy gloved hands WHILE manipulating the camera's focus and all that jaz. Nice work, man.
I reuse my adjustors too. I cleaned and coated mine with nickel the first time i took them off. And i use a small part i fabricobbled from some junk i had to keep an o-ring on the threads, so no rust can get to the threads where i can't coat them sufficiently lest they seize. New stuff just doesn't feel right when you touch it, you're 100% right on that.
I love that you show the automotive warts and all.
I remember when I first started to become a technician. One of the first jobs I had in a shop was to change break shoes on a drum/hat configuration in maybe an 82 model Corvette Stingray. I knew exactly what to do, but due to the lack of hands on experience, it took a little while. Lol
For those of you reading comments, make sure to wear safety glasses while working with these springs.
When I worked for my dad, and I was in high school, I nearly took my eye out by using needle nose pliers on a spring. They slipped off the spring and still in my hands, landed in my eyebrow. Yes, safety glasses a must.
Just did my rear brakes, rotors, and parking brake shoes on my 2011 Honda Element! Thank you so much for this video!
Tremendous patience and attention to detail. Well done.
Thank you, Eric, for posting, as I was at odds on how to do this until I found your video, as you do all the hard first work for us to make the job that much easier.
Doing it right is time consuming. Thank you for showing this video.
Having been spoiled with the caliper mounted ebrake of my 08 Si, I was nervous when I saw the setup on my 2020 86. Thank you so much for this video E!!! Happy birthday if it's your birthday!!
PSA : rear drum brakes are no joke. I recommend you outsource this job that is generally due at 90K for hard drivers & 125K for gentle drivers. I studied several UA-cam videos. I downloaded the service manual. I bought specialty drum brake tools. I was just going to clean & regrease where the pads contact the back plate. Seemed like a straightforward procedure with my UA-cam knowledge & couple pages of service manual exploded PDF's. What took 5 minutes on a UA-cam toke over an hour on one drum for me ( I've done struts, front brakes, radiator swaps, alternator swaps before, so I'm not a beginner)
I studied the picture I took of the ," before ."
I after struggling for an hour, I finally reassembled and doubled checked my assembly.
Well after taking a short test drive, and not having resistance from my console area parking brake handle, I open the drum again. Turns out, in my 10+ attempts at finessing the springs and position of pads & levers, I discovered that somehow the parking brake cable came off from it's attachment point and got sheared off.
So now I created a $350 premature rear brake job for myself.
Lesson learned .
Great and descriptive video of a parking break job. Takes time, nothing goes as planned the first try and everything is pretty much a hassle and fiddling. 😀
Nice job. Thanks for the video; very informative. Like your calm approach to doing what otherwise is a difficult job. I learned a long time ago that there are several ways to do anything so best to do it the way your most comfortable. If it works for you, then it's right.
drum brakes are an awkward , fiddly , frustrating PITA .. drum parking brakes are a whole new level of PITA
I concur. It's almost like they only still fit them cos they cost pence per vehicle... oh wait... yeah. That's the only reason. *facepalm*
The Gospel is 1 Corinthians 15:1-4
👇 👇
ua-cam.com/video/lbb4xwYj19g/v-deo.html
I found a whole new level of swearing yesterday with those damn springs on the nail.
I was replacing pads and rotors when the parking brake lining scaled off. To be honest I didn't know what it was at first but it looked ugly, super rusted and the inside of the rotor is very worn. Got lucky and found this video and see what is going on and am replacing the parking brake pads. Thanks!
I've watched you since pretty much the beginning...well, since I ran into your videos some 10 or so years ago. I must say any knowledge I've gained, an confidence I've drawn to attempt to do my own stuff, is because of YOU!!!! Thank you for all you do. Take care Eric! P.S., I ran into your "A Day At The Shop With EricTheCarGuy' recently. That was posted 4 years ago. I wonder a that would look like today?
Thank you Eric I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
What a FANTASTIC video!! I feel confident I can manage this now…especially after all the pitfalls you’ve described and resolved.
Can you apply this same format into a video about raising children? Thanks
Parking brakes and drum brakes always suck but someone’s gotta do it 😤 good work!
19:31 is when the entire thing falls off the vehicle. Haha. Been there MULTIPLE TIMES. 😐
such patiences, Eric
Same problem here - shoes are rubbing. But there is no adjustment at the wheel in the 2001 Volvo S60. I may have to remove material as you did. Great vid. Thanks.
I've only done brake drums once and that was such a PITA!! Pads are so much easier..thank goodness!
I did not notice if you sanded down the rust ridge along the outer edge of the rotor. This could have prevented the rotor from being reinstalled. Hard to believe the pad had too much friction material. I also like to sandpaper the inside of the rotor to remove rust and have cleaner contact with the pad. Great video.
The rotors were only a few weeks old and did not have a rust ridge. Also, keep in mind this technically isn't a brake so prepping the surface of the pad and drum really isn't necessary. Thanks for your comment.
Eric, nice job on the Amazon links.
Definite win-win.
Cheers to you, I’ve loved your channel for years.
Awesome video Eric! Thanks for sharing this with us!
Thank you for this video and all the additional tips, especially for AWD vehicles! Will help greatly when I do this on my SH-AWD TL.
This is the first video I have seen from you. I really like how you take the time to explain as you're getting a very nice close up view of what you're talking about. Thank you for making a great video.... I just subscribed.
Very detailed and informative bro. Not much different then a regular drum brake job. Thank You Much
I unnecessarily removed the parking brake hardware to change out the hub and bearing on my 2001 MDX. Your video is not quite the same but it certainly helped in reassembly. The "before" photo I took did not adequately show placement of the parts. Thanks.
Dang! Thank God for videos. As you get old, it's good bye short term memory!
And long term memory in my case. Like waking up to a new world every day. 😂
Well explained & videoed, thank you young man. Hope all is well is the last 2 yrs.
Thanks for posting this video. The parking brake I kinda shy away from due to all the parts and possibly putting something in wrong. You make it look easy, a bit trying but not as bad as I thought. I appreciate your hard work doing these videos and sharing your knowledge. Happy pre Memorial Day.
THANK YOU EricTheCarGuy FOR SAVING ME MONEY!!!
On the backing plate there are slightly elevated contact points on it. The brake shoes' frames come in constant contact with them. The service manual says they should be greased. I use a waterproof, multi purpose, heavy duty, synthetic polymer EP grease for the job. An EP grease is a perfect choice for chassis points, universal joints, pins, bearings, bushings, slide and cam mechanisms, etc.
Eric, you have given me confidence that I can accomplish this frustrating job. I admire your calmness and persistence.
Although, we would all love to see the outtakes of this video showing you cursing , kicking the trash can and throwing your wrenches across the garage. Lol
Seriously, nice video, thank you.
Brings back memories of my 1964 Chevy II Nova.
It also brings back memories of my,1964 Chevy II nova.
could knocking off the rust ridge inside the hat help with reinstallation? I kinda cringed when I saw you go after the brake pads like that lol!
Yes, it can help a great deal with installing the disc if you plan on reusing it. However in my case the rotors were only a few weeks old and there was no rust ridge to be concerned about.
Once again Eric thanks for posting these videos. There are very helpful.
Oh and a reminder also stay safe from the COVID-19 so we can see more of these videos
Even tho you dont igve it away it is kind of refreshing to see the element again
That shake and break is badass never saw one of those so it air hammers it and then you turn it at the same time, nice!
I generally use a impact the kind you hit with a hammer had pretty good luck with the too.
Super video, thank you very much. I feel confident to be able to do the work. Again, great job!
I just did 3 parking brake jobs in the past few weeks. First was a set on a '06 Impala - royal PITA!!! It's the stupid horseshoe design, single shoe, and not a single cut on the side of the hub for access. They want you to remove the rusty hub bearing assembly, which will inevitably result in unplanned replacement, since it's frozen inside the knuckle. I managed to get the horseshoe over the hub - wasn't easy, and I had to create a press out of a wood clamp to bend the horseshoe back 1/4" to its proper size afterward. A small price to pay for saving both rear hub bearing assemblies. What a steaming pile of dung design!!!
I also fought with a '12 Ram 1500 parking brake shoe replacement a couple weeks back. The hub on that is also nearly the same diameter as the shoes, so access is miserable. The retaining clip for the nails needs to be compressed to fit behind the hub! Goes flying, then you have to fish it out of the bottom of the parking brake shoes, drag it up into place, then compress it to get the nail through and then turn it 90° to lock! What a barrel of fun that was as well!
After that I did a '04 Highlander, but that was easy compared to the 2 domestic turds. Some engineers need to be tarred and feathered!! 😡
Hi Eric just watched this very good video of yours . I am about to replace the shoes on my car ( Vauxhall Antara ) and I now feel much better about the job ahead. Thanks for making me feel better about this . 👍🏻😎👍🏻
Thanks for this. I have been dealing with a rubbing noise on my express cargo van for weeks and I had no idea where it was coming from because the sound never went away even when braking. The mechanic took it apart and found out the parking brake shoes were cracked and loose and making the rubbing/clicking noise. Interesting to see how they will replace it
Hey Eric, another outstanding video!
-Is removing shoe material a common occurrence?
-Did you compare the old adjuster with the new? If the new one is shorter, the shoe engagement would be slightly less. Just trying to help, not criticize.
I can confirm the replacement adjusters are shorter than the original. When at minimum adjustment, the original adjuster spreads the shoes 51mm vs 47.5mm for the replacement. I couldn't get the hat over the shoes with the original adjuster, but it was easy with the replacement one.
I had to remove shoe material on my 99 Avalon several years back. Was glad to see you address that issue. Thanks for another quality video.
I've just done the same job, and came across the same problem ,drum brake would not go on . After watching your vid I now know what I need to do Thanks .
I might have chosen to take some material of off the drum instead of the brake shoes. Great video. Thanks
Smashing job :-D, But you missed the word "Dykes" out when talking about plyers :-D
I'm sure you used to say that, or i could be mad... yep.
Maybe adjusting the handbrake nuts will shorten the clickage (Technical term) :-D.
I used to call them that until I started doing videos on UA-cam. I didn't want to be misinterpreted. Have a great weekend!
EricTheCarGuy Political Correctness is a real _itch.
It's interesting because it's easier to say than diags because they were diagonal cut pliers. The metamorphosis of terms. And it's amazing how many words have been hijacked.
@@spacecat7247 Just think about the word 'Gay', to be very happy and no worries.
Now hijacked for saying your sexual/mental need is for the same gender .
A very crude discription.
thank you for uploading the video brake shoe replacement
Hi from Romania! You are the best.
yea that definitely reinforced my thought that i wont be messing with the parking brake shoes.
Hi Eric,
My Honda Accord has the same setup.I also changed the backing plate as it was just as bad as your's.
Great video. Very helpful for the rear brakes in my saab 9-5 aero estate
Excellent video I just tackled these in my garage after I was done I could not get the rotors over the shoes. I figured it was the aftermarket brake shoes that I got from 1A Auto but it was the fact that I was trying to use the OEM adjuster when i ended up having to use the aftermarket adjuster. The aftermarket adjuster let the shoes close enough to put the rotors on and adjust. Perhaps this was part of your issue as well? Thanks again!
I think it's crazy🤪 how 15' 16' and even newer cars still come with drum brakes. Cool video😁
philly Dee not Honda CRV's
@@edwardmoody4253 hey bro, I was only referring to those cars that do😉
The honda still lives that car hasn't been on the channel in a long time
It doesn't need anything. ;)
@@ericthecarguy great answer... :) Hope your keeping well all the way from Carrickfergus northern Ireland..
Finally after one year I can finish my daily driver job no one has this detailed of a video for emergency brake shoes 🫡
Good job Eric. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Goodmorning yet again, Eric!
Good morning!
You make the best repair guides . Thank you, your a lifesaver! 👊🏻
Gotta love this videos informational and easy to understand
PITA is the acronym of the day.
YEAH More ELEMENT videos ! Thanks Eric. Too bad I don't have mine anymore..... I did this before and USE OEM PARTS aftermarket parts make this job horrible!
Nice work Eric they can be fun to do always have to remember where all the little parts go now when i do drum brakes i always take a picture so i know where everything goes Thanks....
It's great having a spare parts Honda I found.
Always take out the centre hub never had any issues with the wheel bearing s and job much easier to do but this is a realy good for the first timer's
Only work if there is no rust
yeah at my Honda school the instructor told us to remove the wheel hub makes it easier but still good video
love this channel thankyou for taking the time to do this it is invaluable
CHEVY IMPALA2009, in the Haynes guide for Chevrolet Impala and Monte Carlo, shows that you have to disassembly the hub. But the tool you need is a press, that's the missing detail. I spent hours doing that just to find out too late.
***Use the NEW adjuster*** unless you want a bad time. 2003 CR-V here. Same setup and part numbers. Both the aftermarket and genuine Honda replacement adjusters are ever so slightly shorter than the original ones. I too liked the feel of the original adjuster better, so tried to use it initially. The hat was definitely not going over the shoes. I took a swear break and then swapped out for the aftermarket adjuster and the dang rotor/drum pops on like it should. I have genuine Honda shoes and a Raybestos hardware kit that looks identical to the one in the video. The original adjuster holds the shoes 51mm apart at minimum adjustment, vs 47.5mm for the replacement part. Extremely helpful video otherwise.
I love these kind of videos Eric thank you!
thanks for your detailed step by step, but I believe that you only installed the upper springs--two on each side--but you said there are three on each side, so I'm assuming the missing springs were to go on the bottom?
The rear drum shoes used to intimidate me. until I actually did them and they're super easy.
great review for drum brakes too
Eric, thanks for video, haven't done one in awhile, good refresher !!
I hate doing these style of parking brakes.
Excellent video, saved me lots of time.
Learn a lot from your videos. Thanks to you!
Shoes can be a pain in the ass but you kept cool all the way .. Very good, I would have used the original adjuster as well..