Do you ever find any initial oil leaking for the first drive after changing the seal? I have heard some people say this, and I might be experiencing this. I am thinking it is the oil I placed around the sundial that was left in front of the gasket and that oil has nowhere to go but to the surface via centripetal force? That seems to make sense, I personally coated the sundial surface and gasket with a lot of diff oil to make sure the o-ring would spin and not catch while installing the sundial
Another quick tip, screw driver or punch in the rotor fins stops at the caliper for front axle spin for torque/break loose without risking lug stud damage.
I have a manual 98 legacy outback that does require a sundial tool to replace the seals . DOU YOU THINK THAT WOULD BE VERSION ONE OR TWO OF THE SUNDIAL TOOL? THANK YOU!
Good question, if you go to company 23s website. They have example pictures of the sundials and factory part numbers that are compatible with each tool.
Great Video! I found it because I have been feeling some vibration at higher speeds upon acceleration. A lot of forums say it would be a CV axle but I have new CV axles on both sides. So when I went underneath I noticed there is a fair amount of up/down side/side play in where the axle connects to the trans/diff. I also have the leaking issue you have here. Im wondering if the stub coming out of my diff is worn out, and how to replace/diagnose that? Thoughts?
There's is a bearing behind that seal retainer that is removed in this video. However they usually make a ton of noise if they are bad. When are you getting the vibration? If it's happening at a stop it's likely caused by poorly made aftermarket axles. If it's happening when driving and you already replaced the axles, then the next step is to remove the drive line and feel the u-joints for notchy spots or sometimes they are completely seized up.
I'm having the same issue by the sounds of it. CV Axle has play as it goes into the dif. Changed the axles and that did not change anything. This is on a 2005 Outback. Did you figure out your problem? I think it is the bearing myself as there is lots of bearing noise too.
Ive worked on a lot of subarus. That ratchet strap trick is genius
Do you ever find any initial oil leaking for the first drive after changing the seal? I have heard some people say this, and I might be experiencing this. I am thinking it is the oil I placed around the sundial that was left in front of the gasket and that oil has nowhere to go but to the surface via centripetal force?
That seems to make sense, I personally coated the sundial surface and gasket with a lot of diff oil to make sure the o-ring would spin and not catch while installing the sundial
Thanks for the info. Ill probably end up doing this soon
Man this was great thank you so much. My buddy did a diy fix on it that didn’t work and with the wrong parts 🥹 you saved this subi
Another quick tip, screw driver or punch in the rotor fins stops at the caliper for front axle spin for torque/break loose without risking lug stud damage.
Quick tip use the old axle seal as a buffer
I thought the sundial was preload the carrier bearing? For some reason I thought it had to be taken to a certain torque spec.
Yes, this is why you count the turns. To return it back to the factory loaded spec
@@AlanFixedItdoes going reverse and back mess anything up? For example while turning you accidentally go backwards then go forwards again?
@@Bob-ew5ul no, as long as it's the same number of total forward turns
I have a manual 98 legacy outback that does require a sundial tool to replace the seals . DOU YOU THINK THAT WOULD BE VERSION ONE OR TWO OF THE SUNDIAL TOOL? THANK YOU!
Good question, if you go to company 23s website. They have example pictures of the sundials and factory part numbers that are compatible with each tool.
THANK YOU!
Do you have a part number for the Oring?
806984040
Great Video! I found it because I have been feeling some vibration at higher speeds upon acceleration. A lot of forums say it would be a CV axle but I have new CV axles on both sides. So when I went underneath I noticed there is a fair amount of up/down side/side play in where the axle connects to the trans/diff. I also have the leaking issue you have here. Im wondering if the stub coming out of my diff is worn out, and how to replace/diagnose that? Thoughts?
There's is a bearing behind that seal retainer that is removed in this video. However they usually make a ton of noise if they are bad. When are you getting the vibration? If it's happening at a stop it's likely caused by poorly made aftermarket axles. If it's happening when driving and you already replaced the axles, then the next step is to remove the drive line and feel the u-joints for notchy spots or sometimes they are completely seized up.
I'm having the same issue by the sounds of it. CV Axle has play as it goes into the dif. Changed the axles and that did not change anything. This is on a 2005 Outback. Did you figure out your problem? I think it is the bearing myself as there is lots of bearing noise too.
Doesn't the stub come out
They do with enough force. But it's best to leave them in if possible as the locking ring on the end of the stub can be easily damaged or lost.
So I assume this is the same deal on the automatic 04 sedan outback h6
If it uses the same style Axles with the roll pin then yes
They look similar to your old ones but green with a roll pin
It's likely the same transmission. I'd just double check part umbers to your vin at the local dealership