I mostly use sugar cane mulch because, all the bails like pea straw, lucern etc all sprout seedlings not long after spreading. I use some pea straw this spring to layer with compost to build up some beds and now they're full of pea plants.
@@thewoody1950 She said to be conscious about where you are getting your mulch from, for her, sugar cane mulch needs to come from very far, resulting in travel time, wasting gas, pea straw for her is her solution because it comes from just down the road of her. Now i do admit that she forgot to mention the following pointer for beginners; She says the following; "Remember to look where your mulch is coming from and what is in it." she could've added; "There could be seeds from either the mother plants or even weeds in it."
I like to run my straw over with a lawn mower first. It chops it into smaller pieces. Making it easier to work with as well as giving better cover to the soil.
my produce store carries straw ... suger cane or lucerne... nothing in straw.. I would prefer the lucerne for my roses but I dont take it .... as the poor people with stock need it more ...suger cane is a fantastic mulch, that combined with cow poo and organic fertiliser pellets... thank you very much for uploading for us
I know this isn't recommended, but I have used bush mulch (around three inches in depth) successfully on our ornamental garden beds for the past three years. Each year it breaks down after twelve months and I then spread a fresh layer (usually in mid to late spring). I realise that the mulch draws valuable nitrogen from the soil as it breaks down, however I am often adding home made compost and store bought compost, plus organic fertilisers, as needed, when planting, or to maintain and care for plants, so the nitrogen is replaced. When planting a new plant, I move aside the mulch temporarily and add the feeding materials to the soil, plant the new plant, water in, then cover the soil over again with the bush mulch that was pushed aside. If I am simply maintaining/feeding existing plants, I move mulch aside, side/top dress the soil around the plant, water in, then move the mulch back around the plant. I have clay loam soil naturally in the garden and the bush mulch has really helped to condition the clay loam.
Thank you Sophie. Great mulch video. Just wondering if the 5cm mulch could be layered? For example, faster composting lucerne for 2-3 cm followed by slower composting wood chips on top for 2-3 cms … like a mulch lasagne. Only wondering because I have both on hand at the moment and figure the lucerne will be faster to add to the soil, while wood chips will provide a more robust barrier for moisture retention during summer (I live in the Queensland Subtropics). I’d very much welcome any advice/thoughts/guidance/tips you may be able to share on this topic.
I'm not Sophie, however that sounds like a good plan, go for it and see how it develops. Lasagna gardening is a keyphrase you can look for to get more info on that topic, however i assume you are already familiar with that because you did mention the word lasagna, if not, i wish you a happy research!
There's loads of information about how to rejuvenate soil over on our website. For example, have a look at this: www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/reviving-a-garden-bed/9429306 or just head over to www.abc.net.au/gardening/ and search "soil" :)
Hi, I have been using tree lopping mulch for a number of years now on my Perth sand. However once it starts to break down the soil becomes hydrophobic and I have a constant battle to get the water to penetrate rather than just sit on top and run off or evaporate. I have recently started using straw and am hoping that I don't have to constantly battle the waterproof soil with various agents.
Sadly you are correct, Clopyralid and aminopyralid are broad-leaf herbicides that hang around despite composting and can even affect bedding and manure of animals that have eaten treated hay and straw. They have the effect of causing stunted, twisted, and distorted foliage plus reduced flowering/fruit production. The best way to avoid them is to use only certified organic products. Failing that, check with your source to see if their hay/straw has been sprayed, although horse owners might now know their feed has been treated. Also avoid grass clippings from public parks and golf courses, which tend to use these products. The good news is that the effects will gradually pass and, in the meantime, you can still grow corn, which is a grass so not affected by the broad-leaf targeting spray. You can also test for residue - mix some of the suspect material (hay, grass clippings, manure, compost) with a soil-less growing mix, then fill a pot and plant in some pre-soaked pea or bean seeds. Contamination is indicated if seedlings emerge that are twisted and deformed.
Hello! Beautiful garden you have! For the first time, I added oat straw from a local gardener this past fall and oh my goodness....three weeks later I add a field of oats growing....it was full of seeds....I didn't take a chance, I pulled it all off and it was hard because it was really well established already. I just didn't want to deal with that in the spring. I live in Canada. Next spring I was thinking of adding chips of hardwood from a local artisan that makes furniture, do you think that would be allright? If so, how thick should I put it? And also, some oat seeds remained , how would you go about eliminating those for good? Thank you in advance, much appreciated!
Great program however please collect up bots of the twine the bird's collect it for nesting material which unintentionally wraps around the chicks feet as they grow causing deformities. Thanks
What about mulch for Australian natives? I used mulched Japanese maple leaves layed thick around 2 Wooly bushes and a few months later they both died.?
As a rule of thumb, a mulch with a similar woody to herbaceous ratio as the plant you're growing will be reasonably similar to what they've evolved in. If just leaves are applied, they can can mat together and create anaerobic conditions at the soil surface, which may have affected your Woolly bushes.
I read that i should use pine bark mulch and not hard wood mulch on proteaceae family plants, as pine bark mulch is more acidic and hard wood is more alkaline, and they don't like alkaline soil. Is this true and does it really matter.
If there is proper soil life, then it should be fine, once the mulch is broken down it should all be neutralized. I haven't tried the following yet, but it is said that even juglone carrying flora can be composted and then spread around on in your veggie garden, because all the juglone should have been neutralized in the composting process. If you start with a new plot, try the following; Cover with wood compost, then mushroom compost and then whatever you have available depending on your plot. However if you drop a thick layer of needles directly on the bare soil, or hard wood mulch respectively, then the first year you could have some issues depending on the needs and wants, for there is no mycelial network and not enough critters to break down all the biological material, those issues should be solved in the years ahead by nature composting everything accordingly.
Leaf mulch and pine and/or casuarina mulches are terrific if that’s what you have access to! Sophie uses what she has on hand, but you might enjoy Millie’s story on leaf compost ua-cam.com/video/z_D564R6dQU/v-deo.html and this oldie but goldie from Tino on how to use pine needles in the strawberry patch: www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/the-strawberry-patch/10837694
What to do about slugs though? we've noticed that since we started putting straw mulch it was like inviting all the slugs to hide and breed :-( any tips for that? Unfortunately in our urban communal garden we cannot get ducks to feast on them
I use straw or cacoa shells, problem with straw is that it can blow away if there is lots of wind, and birds like to dig into it to find grubs. If they are in soil and not in buckets, you can also consider woodchip mulch, but this should be a mix of green and brown, i.e. the woodchip mulch should be full with "chopped leaves". Secondly, if it is the first time you are doing it in full soil, first consider to place a layer of wood-chip compost, then a layer of mushroom compost, and then finally the "fresh" woodchips mix. This only has to be done once, after that every so many years just top it off with fresh woodchips and sometimes dress it with chicken manure if your plants show they need a bit of extra attention.
Bamboo degrades very slowly, depending on the size of the stems. If you can have it chopped in small pieces it could be used like any other organic, however it will take a very long time to degrade, so it isn't suitable as a first layer. If you never done this before, start off with a nice layer of straw mulch, so that this can degrade the first year, then you can continue to build the soil up with "tougher" mulch, like soft woods, and then hard woods. What i advise people is, if it is your first time, first place a layer of compost, then top it off with mushroom compost, and last with a fresh mulch. This will speed up the process of building up the soil drastically and only has to be done once.
Any ground cover can be used as mulch. For some reason, a lot of people here in SA use scoria gravel as mulch & many people with succulent gardens use pea gravel or larger river pebbles, I've also seen quite a few mulch with that ugly white gravel that you used to see on driveways. You can even buy mulch made from all sorts of recycled waste, too e.g tumbled broken glass, rubber, plastic, timber from the construction industry etc.
Be careful of using pea mulch straw, as this attracts birds coming around and dig in and damage plants/veggies. Protection is needed. Learnt my lesson, too sad mine mostly damaged
I mostly use sugar cane mulch because, all the bails like pea straw, lucern etc all sprout seedlings not long after spreading. I use some pea straw this spring to layer with compost to build up some beds and now they're full of pea plants.
yup i only use sugar cane mulch for that reason too. i want to keep weeds out not by adding them in to the garden
Yep lost me after she said was not going to use sugar cane
@@thewoody1950
She said to be conscious about where you are getting your mulch from, for her, sugar cane mulch needs to come from very far, resulting in travel time, wasting gas, pea straw for her is her solution because it comes from just down the road of her.
Now i do admit that she forgot to mention the following pointer for beginners;
She says the following; "Remember to look where your mulch is coming from and what is in it." she could've added; "There could be seeds from either the mother plants or even weeds in it."
You've done a fantastic job with your place ! Love the aerial shots
Great to see your garden.I am doing farming organically and I find much interest in learning much on it
I like to run my straw over with a lawn mower first. It chops it into smaller pieces. Making it easier to work with as well as giving better cover to the soil.
my produce store carries straw ... suger cane or lucerne... nothing in straw.. I would prefer the lucerne for my roses but I dont take it .... as the poor people with stock need it more ...suger cane is a fantastic mulch, that combined with cow poo and organic fertiliser pellets... thank you very much for uploading for us
I have seen your video of mulching benefits ,it is very informative and interesting video thank you
Good explanation ☝💤 thankyou ...atsuuup 👍
I know this isn't recommended, but I have used bush mulch (around three inches in depth) successfully on our ornamental garden beds for the past three years. Each year it breaks down after twelve months and I then spread a fresh layer (usually in mid to late spring). I realise that the mulch draws valuable nitrogen from the soil as it breaks down, however I am often adding home made compost and store bought compost, plus organic fertilisers, as needed, when planting, or to maintain and care for plants, so the nitrogen is replaced. When planting a new plant, I move aside the mulch temporarily and add the feeding materials to the soil, plant the new plant, water in, then cover the soil over again with the bush mulch that was pushed aside. If I am simply maintaining/feeding existing plants, I move mulch aside, side/top dress the soil around the plant, water in, then move the mulch back around the plant. I have clay loam soil naturally in the garden and the bush mulch has really helped to condition the clay loam.
Sounds good. What is bush mulch? Bark chips?
Thank u so much very informative 👌👍😍
Great to see
Beautiful video uploaded thank you👍🤗🌷🌷
Very nice upload 👍💚😍
Thank your so much. love you.
Good information 👍
Inspiring
Amazing
I just love how she says mulsh ... I'm saying that way from now on
Hahaha
Yes she’s perfectly lovey isnt she?
Thank lots ma'am...
Great video, Sophie. Go South Aussie :)
Are you related to the late Sir Thomas?
Thank you Sophie. Great mulch video. Just wondering if the 5cm mulch could be layered? For example, faster composting lucerne for 2-3 cm followed by slower composting wood chips on top for 2-3 cms … like a mulch lasagne. Only wondering because I have both on hand at the moment and figure the lucerne will be faster to add to the soil, while wood chips will provide a more robust barrier for moisture retention during summer (I live in the Queensland Subtropics). I’d very much welcome any advice/thoughts/guidance/tips you may be able to share on this topic.
I'm not Sophie, however that sounds like a good plan, go for it and see how it develops.
Lasagna gardening is a keyphrase you can look for to get more info on that topic, however i assume you are already familiar with that because you did mention the word lasagna, if not, i wish you a happy research!
Great video! Thank you 🙏
I love 💗 it!!
Im exited to renovate my veggie wannabe patch soil which is quite of non living and dirt
There's loads of information about how to rejuvenate soil over on our website. For example, have a look at this: www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/reviving-a-garden-bed/9429306 or just head over to www.abc.net.au/gardening/ and search "soil" :)
Hi, I have been using tree lopping mulch for a number of years now on my Perth sand. However once it starts to break down the soil becomes hydrophobic and I have a constant battle to get the water to penetrate rather than just sit on top and run off or evaporate. I have recently started using straw and am hoping that I don't have to constantly battle the waterproof soil with various agents.
what about pesticides used by the farmers selling the mulch, it will go into your garden soil and plants
Sadly you are correct, Clopyralid and aminopyralid are broad-leaf herbicides that hang around despite composting and can even affect bedding and manure of animals that have eaten treated hay and straw. They have the effect of causing stunted, twisted, and distorted foliage plus reduced flowering/fruit production.
The best way to avoid them is to use only certified organic products. Failing that, check with your source to see if their hay/straw has been sprayed, although horse owners might now know their feed has been treated. Also avoid grass clippings from public parks and golf courses, which tend to use these products.
The good news is that the effects will gradually pass and, in the meantime, you can still grow corn, which is a grass so not affected by the broad-leaf targeting spray. You can also test for residue - mix some of the suspect material (hay, grass clippings, manure, compost) with a soil-less growing mix, then fill a pot and plant in some pre-soaked pea or bean seeds. Contamination is indicated if seedlings emerge that are twisted and deformed.
Hi..very informative video..can lawn clipping be used as mulch?
Thoughts on using newspaper/shredded paper mulch. Find them easiest to source
Hello! Beautiful garden you have! For the first time, I added oat straw from a local gardener this past fall and oh my goodness....three weeks later I add a field of oats growing....it was full of seeds....I didn't take a chance, I pulled it all off and it was hard because it was really well established already. I just didn't want to deal with that in the spring. I live in Canada. Next spring I was thinking of adding chips of hardwood from a local artisan that makes furniture, do you think that would be allright? If so, how thick should I put it? And also, some oat seeds remained , how would you go about eliminating those for good? Thank you in advance, much appreciated!
Great program however please collect up bots of the twine the bird's collect it for nesting material which unintentionally wraps around the chicks feet as they grow causing deformities. Thanks
What about mulch for Australian natives? I used mulched Japanese maple leaves layed thick around 2 Wooly bushes and a few months later they both died.?
As a rule of thumb, a mulch with a similar woody to herbaceous ratio as the plant you're growing will be reasonably similar to what they've evolved in.
If just leaves are applied, they can can mat together and create anaerobic conditions at the soil surface, which may have affected your Woolly bushes.
I used straw for mulch on houseplants and now my house smells like a barn. My eyes are watering and itchy too🙂
Great!
Going to go back to using sugarcane mulch. Sick of pea sprouts popping up all through my veggie garden.
As for me, the birds being pest now as they are attracted to this mulch, they keep on digging in my pots and my plants/veggies are now mostly damaged,
while waiting for my ground cover to grow, should I mulch my soil? would that be bad for ground cover to grow?
I would.
All the pea straw in our area is sprayed with roundup and fungicide 2 weeks before harvesting. I suspect this is no good for the garden?
I would advise against using any straw or mulch that you know has been treated with such devastating chemicals.
help put straw down last fall but now (spring) I have a lot of green shoots to deal with thinking a wheat seed germinating what would you recommend?
Love you
I read that i should use pine bark mulch and not hard wood mulch on proteaceae family plants, as pine bark mulch is more acidic and hard wood is more alkaline, and they don't like alkaline soil. Is this true and does it really matter.
If there is proper soil life, then it should be fine, once the mulch is broken down it should all be neutralized.
I haven't tried the following yet, but it is said that even juglone carrying flora can be composted and then spread around on in your veggie garden, because all the juglone should have been neutralized in the composting process.
If you start with a new plot, try the following; Cover with wood compost, then mushroom compost and then whatever you have available depending on your plot.
However if you drop a thick layer of needles directly on the bare soil, or hard wood mulch respectively, then the first year you could have some issues depending on the needs and wants, for there is no mycelial network and not enough critters to break down all the biological material, those issues should be solved in the years ahead by nature composting everything accordingly.
Any particular reason you did not mention leaf mulch or pine needle mulch?
Leaf mulch and pine and/or casuarina mulches are terrific if that’s what you have access to! Sophie uses what she has on hand, but you might enjoy Millie’s story on leaf compost ua-cam.com/video/z_D564R6dQU/v-deo.html and this oldie but goldie from Tino on
how to use pine needles in the strawberry patch: www.abc.net.au/gardening/factsheets/the-strawberry-patch/10837694
What to do about slugs though? we've noticed that since we started putting straw mulch it was like inviting all the slugs to hide and breed :-( any tips for that? Unfortunately in our urban communal garden we cannot get ducks to feast on them
Reduce watering maybe or push the mulch back further from around your plants
For my tomatoes Which mulch?
I use straw or cacoa shells, problem with straw is that it can blow away if there is lots of wind, and birds like to dig into it to find grubs.
If they are in soil and not in buckets, you can also consider woodchip mulch, but this should be a mix of green and brown, i.e. the woodchip mulch should be full with "chopped leaves".
Secondly, if it is the first time you are doing it in full soil, first consider to place a layer of wood-chip compost, then a layer of mushroom compost, and then finally the "fresh" woodchips mix.
This only has to be done once, after that every so many years just top it off with fresh woodchips and sometimes dress it with chicken manure if your plants show they need a bit of extra attention.
Can I use "Rice Hay/Straw" as mulch?
Yes
does bamboo make a good mulch?
Bamboo degrades very slowly, depending on the size of the stems. If you can have it chopped in small pieces it could be used like any other organic, however it will take a very long time to degrade, so it isn't suitable as a first layer.
If you never done this before, start off with a nice layer of straw mulch, so that this can degrade the first year, then you can continue to build the soil up with "tougher" mulch, like soft woods, and then hard woods.
What i advise people is, if it is your first time, first place a layer of compost, then top it off with mushroom compost, and last with a fresh mulch.
This will speed up the process of building up the soil drastically and only has to be done once.
I never knew gravel was considered mulch.
Any ground cover can be used as mulch. For some reason, a lot of people here in SA use scoria gravel as mulch & many people with succulent gardens use pea gravel or larger river pebbles, I've also seen quite a few mulch with that ugly white gravel that you used to see on driveways. You can even buy mulch made from all sorts of recycled waste, too e.g tumbled broken glass, rubber, plastic, timber from the construction industry etc.
Be careful of using pea mulch straw, as this attracts birds coming around and dig in and damage plants/veggies. Protection is needed. Learnt my lesson, too sad mine mostly damaged
I never use pea mulch, pea crops have lots of chemicals, fungicides etc sprayed on them. Not great for an organic or chemical free vege garden