In 1974 I was 8 years old, I saw the ocean for the first time at Gunnamatta Beach Victoria, my father drove my Sister, older brother, and my self to slide down the sand dunes on cardboard. We got to the second car park, walked along the back of the dunes to the highest one we found, could hear the ocean, got to the top, looked out over Basstrait. I had never seen the ocean or heard of surfing or seen a surfboard. What I saw for the first time, all in one hit, to me it was looking at another world, time, space, dimension ! Estimating the size of the waves now 44 years later, 10-12 feet with bombs. To the left 2 miles away at Cape Shank, right, to the west coast of Bells Beach, as fare as your eye could see, off shore perfection. Straight in front of us looking down from the dunes out in thoes big waves sitting behind a large sand bar with a left & right hand solid sand bar peak that would rival Pipe Line were 6 soul surfs taking off dropping into those huge barrels running down the long deep channels & being spat out of the foam ball, all on single fin short boards charging, I was in awe ! Within a month I got my first board at a garage sale $30.00, 7,2 Mark Warren pin tail single fin ! I think the short board refinement was happening much earlier in Vico in solid cold heaving waves ? I feel truly blessed to have had that as my introduction to the Ocean & Surfing ! Only a Soul Surfer knows the feeling !
Several decades ago, an older guy who'd been surfing since the 50s told me that Phil Edwards is the indisputable best surfer ever. I hadn't really heard much of him at that time but, after seeing video of Edwards' poise in small to big surf, I have to agree.
The "Dora Saga" in instructive: There was no doubt he was the greatest I had ever seen surf Malibu and Rincon. I know becaue I started surfing Malibu and Rincon in 1963 and skateboarding West LA 1960 and saw him in action. He was a prick as he almost injured many "kooks" (including me) that "got in his way" as if he had that right. He was an "elitist" from a rich family in Montecito. Revealing dark attitudes of his class. I look at Miki like a "Great White Hunter" from the 19th century.The enemy of our increasingly "homogenized" globalism - Dora is a relic of a bygone era.
I was in those waves with you too. Dora's better influence is still at C street, Ventura . still knew paddling gracefully,,respect to both of them from East Sac - HOSHI REEF SURF TEAM
Joel and Family lived across the street from me in U.C. HUGGINS STREET. Joe,his Dad was a friend. I moved away 35 years ago so Josh n Joel were very young. GOOD TIMES IN CALI
Though he never really saw anyone of them surf, except on film, there were guys who he never, ever heard of who were red hot. A lot of things made up surfing before the magazines and movies and contests started stamping out the cookie cutter heros of today. Wayne Lynch changed the world and left the spotlight because of a war that Joel only saw hollywood versions and Butch Van Artsdalen wasn't called Mr. Pipeline for nothing,
was unaware tudor had ever been disrespectul of takayama, and i've never heard him say anything derogatory towards his "elders" (edwards, dora, young, noll, nuuhiwa, frye, etc...). he definitely has strong opinions on what longboarding should be, but, if anything, it shows his solidarity w/ the likes of the men mentioned above. care to expound on your comment(s)?
Between 9 and 11 y.o., I used to surf San onofre, I thought I was the hottest 11 y.o. at the beach with a life of respect and popularity in the surfing world, when I was 12 my family moved to Santa Barbara, when I saw Tommy Curren surfing Hammond’s reef for the first time it was a huge reality check and I started skateboarding instead.. Talk about natural talent!!!!!
Yeah, and I doubt Dora would have pushed Noll if Noll dropped in on him. Dora was a great surfer but a total dick. So easy to howl about the commercialization of surfing when you never had to work a day in your life and you get to be a "pure" surfer on Dad's dollars. Now THATs a kook.
Dora pushing off surfers who dared cut him off was great, like they thought it was ok to just stand there and Dora is going to just let them get away with it. And Dora looked a little like Burt Reynolds at the end of the video when Reynolds was in that movie Boogie Nights.
Freddy Pfahler, Dora told Dewey, When the So Bay guys come to Malibu on a good day and Freddy is there, he gets out to watch Freddy. The best through the period!
4 Yanks!!! - don't neccessarily disgree but...Nat, MR, Terry Fitz... ok - Lopez the Tubemaster but little more... Curren and Dora - no argument, but Dora fits more in a set with Greenough, Nat, MP...iconclasts. In saying that great surfers are great surfers, and joel is a great. aloha!
I'm from so.cal new port beach, it's all a life style. Wsl is about a check book, no love for the surf. The best fuxxer from CA. Is not going to be on tour without $$$ backing....
Wait... Dora ahead of Simmons, Velzy, Greenough, MR and Anderson?!?! Seriously?!?! Simmons innovated modern fins. Velzy figured out that if you want the board to turn, you put the wide point aft - in the 50s!!! Greenough gave the Aussies a head start on the short board revolution. MR invented the performance twin based on an offhand comment from RB, and then won 4 world titles on it. How many world titles did Dora ever win? No forget that, did Dora even win ONE SINGLE CONTEST in his entire life? Natas Kaupas won more contests than Dora, and he's a skater! Then... Simon Anderson invented the thruster so Tommy and Kelly could ride them. And you could even throw Hobie and Dave Sweet in there too. The REAL innovators ALWAYS built and rode their own equipment. I guess you could say Dora had the cat, but all the top surfers of the 60s had a model with some unique feature, and Dora probably stole the step idea from Greenough anyway, considering the nose of da cat looks like a Greenough spoon. They're both from Montecito, so for sure Dora knew Greenough. Nobody else was doing flexible surfboards besides George. Pretty sad that Dora's only "innovation" was copied from George's spoons.
Sorry but to not include Nat Young is a travesty in any recollection of the history of surfing the man basically introduced the short board era and how about Simon Andereson the man who brought the modern thruster into the world.
Anyone that doesn't recognize the greatness of Tudor on a longboard is daft. Not to minimize Edwards, Dora, Nuuhiwa, or Nat, but Tudor built on what they established with skill arguably greater than any of them. Nat himself seems to hold this view. Sounds to me, Billy, like you have an axe to grind.
My feeling about duck tape turd boy are based on personal experience... not opinion. And like Dora... I have a problem with affectation. Oh and Nat Young really has nothing to do with quality longboarding so his opinion is meaningless in this situation.
"...Nat Young really has nothing to do with quality longboarding.." This might the most ignorant comment I've seen online and I don't throw around insults. At least it's in the running. Billy. you can take that distinction to the grave with you. I've surfed with Joel also, and he couldn't have been nicer.
Maybe it sucks to know that you'll never see Nat Young at the top of anybody's (but yours) list of the 60's best longboarders? So I feel for you and I'm sorry you have to experience that.
In 1974 I was 8 years old, I saw the ocean for the first time at Gunnamatta Beach Victoria, my father drove my Sister, older brother, and my self to slide down the sand dunes on cardboard. We got to the second car park, walked along the back of the dunes to the highest one we found, could hear the ocean, got to the top, looked out over Basstrait. I had never seen the ocean or heard of surfing or seen a surfboard. What I saw for the first time, all in one hit, to me it was looking at another world, time, space, dimension ! Estimating the size of the waves now 44 years later, 10-12 feet with bombs. To the left 2 miles away at Cape Shank, right, to the west coast of Bells Beach, as fare as your eye could see, off shore perfection. Straight in front of us looking down from the dunes out in thoes big waves sitting behind a large sand bar with a left & right hand solid sand bar peak that would rival Pipe Line were 6 soul surfs taking off dropping into those huge barrels running down the long deep channels & being spat out of the foam ball, all on single fin short boards charging, I was in awe ! Within a month I got my first board at a garage sale $30.00, 7,2 Mark Warren pin tail single fin ! I think the short board refinement was happening much earlier in Vico in solid cold heaving waves ? I feel truly blessed to have had that as my introduction to the Ocean & Surfing ! Only a Soul Surfer knows the feeling !
Great content but the background music is freaking killing me it’s way too loud.
alot of people don't know who Phil Edwards is now a days and it's sad. he was the greatest!!
Several decades ago, an older guy who'd been surfing since the 50s told me that Phil Edwards is the indisputable best surfer ever. I hadn't really heard much of him at that time but, after seeing video of Edwards' poise in small to big surf, I have to agree.
The "Dora Saga" in instructive: There was no doubt he was the greatest I had ever seen surf Malibu and Rincon. I know becaue I started surfing Malibu and Rincon in 1963 and skateboarding West LA 1960 and saw him in action. He was a prick as he almost injured many "kooks" (including me) that "got in his way" as if he had that right. He was an "elitist" from a rich family in Montecito. Revealing dark attitudes of his class. I look at Miki like a "Great White Hunter" from the 19th century.The enemy of our increasingly "homogenized" globalism - Dora is a relic of a bygone era.
I was in those waves with you too. Dora's better influence is still at C
street, Ventura . still knew paddling gracefully,,respect to both of them from East Sac - HOSHI REEF SURF TEAM
@@272surfingnah, Dora was an all around @ss_hole and so are you and your ventura and c street friends, respectfully.
I would like to add George Greenough as well. The humble innovator turns 80 on 6/ 11/ 3021
Local boys humbly embrace the Aloha and respect of surfing history. Not themselves and or collecting FANS!!!!!
Learning surf history.. and this is great stuff that i found, thanks a lot.
Joel and Family lived across the street from me in U.C.
HUGGINS STREET. Joe,his Dad was a friend. I moved away 35 years ago so Josh n Joel were very young. GOOD TIMES IN CALI
Dora emphatically flipping the bird at the camera is absolutely classic!! Never seen that one before.....epic.
Though he never really saw anyone of them surf, except on film, there were guys who he never, ever heard of who were red hot. A lot of things made up surfing before the magazines and movies and contests started stamping out the cookie cutter heros of today. Wayne Lynch changed the world and left the spotlight because of a war that Joel only saw hollywood versions and Butch Van Artsdalen wasn't called Mr. Pipeline for nothing,
Good stuff Joel and well told! I enjoyed it.
unfortunately, you left out Tom Blake who was hugely influential in the early years. :)
Joel the Wizard with any stick.....Pretty much a Legend by now.......
Sorry but the music doesn't add any thing
was unaware tudor had ever been disrespectul of takayama, and i've never heard him say anything derogatory towards his "elders" (edwards, dora, young, noll, nuuhiwa, frye, etc...). he definitely has strong opinions on what longboarding should be, but, if anything, it shows his solidarity w/ the likes of the men mentioned above. care to expound on your comment(s)?
Between 9 and 11 y.o., I used to surf San onofre, I thought I was the hottest 11 y.o. at the beach with a life of respect and popularity in the surfing world, when I was 12 my family moved to Santa Barbara, when I saw Tommy Curren surfing Hammond’s reef for the first time it was a huge reality check and I started skateboarding instead.. Talk about natural talent!!!!!
4:42 great image of Noll and Dora surfing the same wave at Waimea
Yeah, and I doubt Dora would have pushed Noll if Noll dropped in on him. Dora was a great surfer but a total dick. So easy to howl about the commercialization of surfing when you never had to work a day in your life and you get to be a "pure" surfer on Dad's dollars. Now THATs a kook.
Badham,,, Someone who knows the story. Many don't I was there till 61 Summer
Yeah, Dora cutting him off. That's what he did best. Dora was a dick.
And Dora was scared SPITLESS
Great footage, but the stupid music drowned out JT😡
Music way too loud. Otherwise pretty good.
Background music is way too loud, at least sidechain it.
hard to understand him with the music so loud...
the whole movie is like that. I wish I could go back and remix it for them!
Dora pushing off surfers who dared cut him off was great, like they thought it was ok to just stand there and Dora is going to just let them get away with it. And Dora looked a little like Burt Reynolds at the end of the video when Reynolds was in that movie Boogie Nights.
But he always droped in on people.
Dora was an #asshole among soft people, thats how he got away with so much sht.
What’s this song called?
Miki was great but don't forget the king...Greg Noll
Joel, you're smoover, than anyone else
No Nat?
music too loud
Freddy Pfahler, Dora told Dewey, When the So Bay guys come to Malibu on a good day and Freddy is there, he gets out to watch Freddy. The best through the period!
got any photos of Freddy, it's be cool, said from a Dora contemporary....
@@272surfing Did I ever get a pic of Freddy to you? Tim
Tim Tuthill , Tim, nope, got no photo yet...
@@272surfing Sorry I will send in the AM
@@272surfing Oh, where are you located? Hmm, who are you?
Music is TOO LOUD
Cant really hear the words over the music.. oh well. next
Lopez, King of pipe
Jack Daniels on the T-Shirt ?
4 Yanks!!! - don't neccessarily disgree but...Nat, MR, Terry Fitz... ok - Lopez the Tubemaster but little more... Curren and Dora - no argument, but Dora fits more in a set with Greenough, Nat, MP...iconclasts. In saying that great surfers are great surfers, and joel is a great. aloha!
JOEL is a KOOK!
Gregg Knoll ranks number 1........
MORO MORO You are right on!!!
yeah Rick, one of surfings tragedies
I'm from so.cal new port beach, it's all a life style. Wsl is about a check book, no love for the surf. The best fuxxer from CA. Is not going to be on tour without $$$ backing....
It's Newport Beach. You don't live there.
Wait... Dora ahead of Simmons, Velzy, Greenough, MR and Anderson?!?! Seriously?!?! Simmons innovated modern fins. Velzy figured out that if you want the board to turn, you put the wide point aft - in the 50s!!! Greenough gave the Aussies a head start on the short board revolution. MR invented the performance twin based on an offhand comment from RB, and then won 4 world titles on it. How many world titles did Dora ever win? No forget that, did Dora even win ONE SINGLE CONTEST in his entire life? Natas Kaupas won more contests than Dora, and he's a skater! Then... Simon Anderson invented the thruster so Tommy and Kelly could ride them. And you could even throw Hobie and Dave Sweet in there too. The REAL innovators ALWAYS built and rode their own equipment.
I guess you could say Dora had the cat, but all the top surfers of the 60s had a model with some unique feature, and Dora probably stole the step idea from Greenough anyway, considering the nose of da cat looks like a Greenough spoon. They're both from Montecito, so for sure Dora knew Greenough. Nobody else was doing flexible surfboards besides George. Pretty sad that Dora's only "innovation" was copied from George's spoons.
I thought Yater invented the spoon?
@@helloitsmehb I think you're right. Maybe both Dora and Greenough copied it from him. But definitely it wasn't Dora.
@@jobhiojkp yeah. Dora was only good at surfing and being a thief / asshole
Greenough did a lot with fin designs. I do know that
Sorry but to not include Nat Young is a travesty in any recollection of the history of surfing the man basically introduced the short board era and how about Simon Andereson the man who brought the modern thruster into the world.
agreed
..Dora was not universally revered. To those of us who surfed Malibu semi-regularly, he was a thug. A skillful thug, but a thug nonetheless.
I co-existed with him, AGREED
Cant even hear Joel with that annoying music
This is like Mickey Mouse talking about John Wayne.
Anyone that doesn't recognize the greatness of Tudor on a longboard is daft. Not to minimize Edwards, Dora, Nuuhiwa, or Nat, but Tudor built on what they established with skill arguably greater than any of them. Nat himself seems to hold this view.
Sounds to me, Billy, like you have an axe to grind.
My feeling about duck tape turd boy are based on personal experience... not opinion. And like Dora... I have a problem with affectation. Oh and Nat Young really has nothing to do with quality longboarding so his opinion is meaningless in this situation.
"...Nat Young really has nothing to do with quality longboarding.."
This might the most ignorant comment I've seen online and I don't throw around insults. At least it's in the running. Billy. you can take that distinction to the grave with you.
I've surfed with Joel also, and he couldn't have been nicer.
Maybe it sucks to know that you'll never see Nat Young at the top of anybody's (but yours) list of the 60's best longboarders? So I feel for you and I'm sorry you have to experience that.
@@MLJohnsonian Mike, you are the man.......
Slater enough said
Tudor is a tool. He has no business talking about one of surfings true legends.
DORA is a KOOK.
don't you mean was?
@@mozdickson #Legends MATTER...say what....
Th@nk/[hi*
Tudor is so full of himself. He's nothing special & average @ best.
+Stephen Erangey
stephen, you and your' freckles are kooks. shut the fuck up
Why thank you so much for the compliment :)
That music sucks
Dora was an asshole. RIP Johnny Fain.
KOOK