Easiest way EVER,is to paint a white dot on the old belt,gears,and the housing when still on the car. Take the belt off,and hold old belt next to the new belt and paint a dot on the replacement belt on the same spots. I use one clamp to hold the first one in place while positioning the second and third one. Works perfectly.
As a Hyundai Master tech the way I do it is, put the belt on b1 cam(firewall) secure it with a black binder clip route under water pump, hold b2 cam(radiator) back one tooth put belt on and roll cam to timing mark which will take up the slack hold belt with another binder clip. Now roll the crank one tooth counter clockwise put belt over idler pulley and onto crank pulley while holding tension on belt with your hand so it doesn't jump teeth on the crank roll crank back to timing mark this will also take up the slack.... by doing this the belt will not jump teeth. Slide the belt onto the tensioner pull and pull tensioner pin to release the tensioner.... Verify all marks line up, remove clips and rotate the crank 2 times and recheck all timing marks, if they all line up and every time I do it they are reassemble and viola all done in less than an hour... side note it's very important to take up all the slack to the right (if you looking at the water pump) of the tensioner or your timing will be off.
Chris hi cris i just baught a hyundai santa fe 2001 v6 frm some dude off line for my kid. we hadnt had it 2 days and the engine lights on and it feels like in drive its not engaging?It had power whn i baught it.The engine is not missing or shakey or nothing.Tge pullys sound loud now.It fekt very strong whn i test drive it, thats why i baught it.i gave it gas and screeched and took off strongly.Now it feels like the car has a laso on it and its getting pulled back whn i give it gas.I took it to the mechanic this morning and no word on diagnosis yet.Do you have any ideal frm wht im describing what it can be?Im afraid i just baught a melon and threw 2grand away.unother thing it did pass smog and the smig teck said he had one and i got a good deal?I been trippin.egh!😵
Hello, I replaced the belt on my car a year ago and I happened to pop off the upper timing cover and the belt is loose on the water pump side. I replaced all of the timing components with OEM parts except for the timing belt, which was a Gates brand belt. Is it normal for the timing belt to have slack on the water pump side? The idler and tensioner sides have good tension, but the water pump side is so loose that I can turn the water pump pulley by hand.
Here's a summary of the Hyundai Master's instructions: 1. Put the belt on b1 cam (near firewall) and secure it with a black binder clip, 2. Route belt under water pump, 3. Hold b2 cam (near radiator) back one tooth put belt on, 4. Roll cam to timing mark and secure belt with another binder clip, 5. Roll the crank one tooth counter-clockwise, 6. Put belt over idler pulley and onto crank pulley while holding tension on belt, 7. Roll crank back to timing mark this will also take up the slack, 8. Slide the belt onto the tensioner pulley, 9. Pull tensioner pin to release the tensioner.
We put on a new timing belt, water pump, and pulleys on a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with 2.7L V6 this past weekend and I was prepped for problems by your video. We found the same "glitch" and followed your one tooth timing advice to install it correctly. The belt went on quickly and was properly timed. Thanks for the video and your help!! A tip: Put a breaker bar and socket on the tensioner pulley before releasing the new tensioner assembly. You can then simulate the belt tension before committing the tensioner, and check and revise the belt timing easily if needed. A second person is best to help with this.
If you had one cam move and not the other it means you didn't pull all the slack out of the belt. Start with the opposite side of the tensioner, from the crank pulley wrap around the idler pulley then pull the belt as tight as possible without moving the crank pulley then match teeth with the right cam, you can even clamp a small set of vise grips to the belt and cam pulley to keep the belt from moving. The loop under the water pump pulley and again pull the belt as tight as possible without moving the crank or right cam pulleys and match teeth on the left cam pully. Then around tensioner pulley if not done yet. When releasing the tensioner if any pulleys move (which mine didn't) all the pulleys will move in sync. It's the same process with any timing belt. Start on the opposite side of the tensioner and keep the belt completely tight as you're are working it around.
I just performed this job here at Firestone, I rotated b1 cam one tooth forward and the crank one tooth backwards, b2 cam was in position, when I put the crank pulley on and rotated the engine, all timing marks lined up, then I pulled the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner
Thanks for posting. I couldnt even get the belt on without this trick which I had forgotten since doing the belt five years ago. Only took two tries after reading the comments. Another gotcha for me was putting back on the top plastic cover. Put it on before putting on the serp pulling.
The way I do I so I don't have to do so much is if it's not broken or jumped a tooth I mark the belt and the pulleys with a bright nail polish. Then I just replicate it on the new belt. Once it's all put back together I double check it with the timing marks and I like to rotate it 6 times. I know it's overkill but I'm only doing that mistake once lol. Luckily it was my car.
Is it possible when you put the belt on you didn't take up the slack on the right hand side?The slack should be where the tensioner is, if not it will cause the gear to move one tooth when you pull the pin on the tensioner. Top left gear and right gear right down to the crank on the right hand side should be tight,left side between the gear and the top gear should have slack so when the tensioner pin is pulled gear marks don't move. Right side is front bumper left side toward the firewall.
This was too long ago for me to remember specifics. Next (if there is one) ill try to make a note. But I know this method has worked on many over the years on this engine.
The video is correct. Ive done several Delta engines and the rear cam always moves off one tooth when tensioner is released. Ive used this method and makes changing the 2.7 belt a breeze
@@Steve4x4 isn't use of an air impact gun harmful for crankshaft beerings and journals due to the nature of applied loads: short-time but impressive mechanical stresses are developed while there is no oil wedge.
Sorry I couldn't show that work. But understand that I'm a automotive technician first. Being a youtuber is a VERY distant second. It was a customer's car. Not my own. Basically I didn't then and don't now...have the time to set up camera angles and shoot sequences. But I feel I give enough information. It might be helpful for you to read though all the comments. There have been a few other who have explained other ways of doing this Timing belt. This is just how I do it. In no way I say this is the only way. Good luck.
question ,when you say right cam which is on the front to the coolant side, not the firewall, cause that would be the left cam..if you and standing in the passager right side looking at the engine ...your left cam is the one by the firewall and the right cam towards the coolant or front of vehicle...please explain...just trying to set that left cam keeps going off a notch ..smh..
Johnny Cortez when ur referring to right side/left side it's always from the view from the driver's seat looking out the windshield ... In the case of a transfered mounted engine (as the case with this Hyundai) ...right side/left side is viewed from the flywheel side looking in the direction to the belts....so on this Hyundai the cam near the firewall is the right side.... cam near the radiator is the left side. Hope that solves the confusion. and thanks for watching.
@@Steve4x4 with a transverse engine the firewall would be the rear side and the radiator would be the front side there is no RIGHT or LEFT position with a transverse (NOT TRANSFERRED mounted no such thing) engine its REAR of engine nearest firewall vs FRONT side (front of vehicle) Its in the hyundai workshop manufacture manual.
It Took 5 Times? Really ? I've Done Hundreds Of Belts & My Hyundia Was The Easiest . And Everything Lined Up Perfectly First Time . Are You A Technician , Or Just A Mechanic ?
With so many ppl who have liked this video. And many who have said it worked... I think that your comment doesn't matter. If you want professional grade content perhaps you should stay away from UA-cam. But above all I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment.
I am at my wit's end. I bought a Dayco Water Pump / Timing Belt Kit which includes the pump, belt, actuator, camshaft tensioner and ideler pulley. I even contacted Dayco service rep who pumped it up to the Engineer assures me, and I believe him that I have the correct belt. All the old vs. new Hardware is identical. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6757572&jsn=1 For the life of me, I can not get the freaking belt over the tensioner pulley. I have KIA OEM service manual info I still can't get the damn belt on the tensioner pulley. Is there a trick to that? I need like 1/4 to 5/15" more to slip it over the pulley. Also, when you say move the cam back one tooth, I am thinking you are turning the cam COUNTER clockwise, turning it towards the firewall. Do I understand you correctly.
kb3svj move the cam gear that is closest to the firewall one tooth clockwise towards the center of the engine this will give you slack and allow you to slip the belt on and then you can pull up Slack and allow the slack to go on the side of the tensioner after the belt is installed
Thank you. I did happen to get the belt on, but I could not get it on using Steve P's suggestion. What Steve said about setting the cams back a notch was employed when I managed to get the belt on. I did though also set the crank shaft back one notch. I had stopped by Smail Kia in Greensburg Pa and spoke with one of their techs. He advised me to take the upper mounting bolt off the hydraulic tensioner and to loosen the bottom bolt. The bottom bolt acts as a pivot. Also, I had to take out a bolt to the right of the tension pulley arm so as to allow the tension pully to have more movement to the right. That extra bolt is >3" and goes back into the block. I was then able to slip the belt over the tensioner pulley easily. I took a small pry bar and got in behind the hydraulic tensioner torqued the hydraulic tensioner to the right with little effort. I slipped and started to turn in the upper bolt. I replaced that 3" bolt. When I pulled the pin. The belt tightened, and all three timing marks aligned with the cam pulleys and the crank shaft. After hand turning the motor over twice to assure the timing marks all lined up, I went ahead and started the car. It ran smoothly. Since the water pump ran off the timing belt, I saw no harm in running the motor. I allowed it to come up to operating temp. I replaced the alternator while I was at it since the one in the car was the original, and I did not want to dig into the thing again. (a) freeze the video at the 1:12 mark to see the well-illuminated parts
Hello, I replaced the belt on my car a year ago and I happened to pop off the upper timing cover and the belt is loose on the water pump side. I replaced all of the timing components with OEM parts except for the timing belt, which was a Gates brand belt. Is it normal for the timing belt to have slack on the water pump side? The idler and tensioner sides have good tension, but the water pump side is so loose that I can turn the water pump pulley by hand.
I honestly cant answer this question. But if your engine is running fine I'd say leave it alone. If you are having driveability issues.... then you should double check the installation. This was a clients/customer's vehicle so I had no reason to go back into the timing cover once the job was completed.
Easiest way EVER,is to paint a white dot on the old belt,gears,and the housing when still on the car. Take the belt off,and hold old belt next to the new belt and paint a dot on the replacement belt on the same spots. I use one clamp to hold the first one in place while positioning the second and third one. Works perfectly.
Strait up the best tip for timing belts, I have used it many times and never struggle with the marks
That should be called a pro-tip, It worked the first time I can't thank u enough, Thank you very much Sir.
Maybe 4 years later but thank you very much for this tip I did it 1 try because of you
As a Hyundai Master tech the way I do it is, put the belt on b1 cam(firewall) secure it with a black binder clip route under water pump, hold b2 cam(radiator) back one tooth put belt on and roll cam to timing mark which will take up the slack hold belt with another binder clip. Now roll the crank one tooth counter clockwise put belt over idler pulley and onto crank pulley while holding tension on belt with your hand so it doesn't jump teeth on the crank roll crank back to timing mark this will also take up the slack.... by doing this the belt will not jump teeth. Slide the belt onto the tensioner pull and pull tensioner pin to release the tensioner.... Verify all marks line up, remove clips and rotate the crank 2 times and recheck all timing marks, if they all line up and every time I do it they are reassemble and viola all done in less than an hour... side note it's very important to take up all the slack to the right (if you looking at the water pump) of the tensioner or your timing will be off.
Chris H yup love the black paper clips.
Is it possible to change the timing belt without removing pulleys?
Chris hi cris i just baught a hyundai santa fe 2001 v6 frm some dude off line for my kid. we hadnt had it 2 days and the engine lights on and it feels like in drive its not engaging?It had power whn i baught it.The engine is not missing or shakey or nothing.Tge pullys sound loud now.It fekt very strong whn i test drive it, thats why i baught it.i gave it gas and screeched and took off strongly.Now it feels like the car has a laso on it and its getting pulled back whn i give it gas.I took it to the mechanic this morning and no word on diagnosis yet.Do you have any ideal frm wht im describing what it can be?Im afraid i just baught a melon and threw 2grand away.unother thing it did pass smog and the smig teck said he had one and i got a good deal?I been trippin.egh!😵
Hello, I replaced the belt on my car a year ago and I happened to pop off the upper timing cover and the belt is loose on the water pump side. I replaced all of the timing components with OEM parts except for the timing belt, which was a Gates brand belt. Is it normal for the timing belt to have slack on the water pump side? The idler and tensioner sides have good tension, but the water pump side is so loose that I can turn the water pump pulley by hand.
Here's a summary of the Hyundai Master's instructions:
1. Put the belt on b1 cam (near firewall) and secure it with a black binder clip,
2. Route belt under water pump,
3. Hold b2 cam (near radiator) back one tooth put belt on,
4. Roll cam to timing mark and secure belt with another binder clip,
5. Roll the crank one tooth counter-clockwise,
6. Put belt over idler pulley and onto crank pulley while holding tension on belt,
7. Roll crank back to timing mark this will also take up the slack,
8. Slide the belt onto the tensioner pulley,
9. Pull tensioner pin to release the tensioner.
We put on a new timing belt, water pump, and pulleys on a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe with 2.7L V6 this past weekend and I was prepped for problems by your video. We found the same "glitch" and followed your one tooth timing advice to install it correctly. The belt went on quickly and was properly timed. Thanks for the video and your help!!
A tip: Put a breaker bar and socket on the tensioner pulley before releasing the new tensioner assembly. You can then simulate the belt tension before committing the tensioner, and check and revise the belt timing easily if needed. A second person is best to help with this.
itzbobz hope i was helpful.
If you had one cam move and not the other it means you didn't pull all the slack out of the belt. Start with the opposite side of the tensioner, from the crank pulley wrap around the idler pulley then pull the belt as tight as possible without moving the crank pulley then match teeth with the right cam, you can even clamp a small set of vise grips to the belt and cam pulley to keep the belt from moving. The loop under the water pump pulley and again pull the belt as tight as possible without moving the crank or right cam pulleys and match teeth on the left cam pully. Then around tensioner pulley if not done yet. When releasing the tensioner if any pulleys move (which mine didn't) all the pulleys will move in sync. It's the same process with any timing belt. Start on the opposite side of the tensioner and keep the belt completely tight as you're are working it around.
I did mine a year ago , lined up perfectly first try
I just performed this job here at Firestone, I rotated b1 cam one tooth forward and the crank one tooth backwards, b2 cam was in position, when I put the crank pulley on and rotated the engine, all timing marks lined up, then I pulled the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner
Thanks for posting. I couldnt even get the belt on without this trick which I had forgotten since doing the belt five years ago. Only took two tries after reading the comments. Another gotcha for me was putting back on the top plastic cover. Put it on before putting on the serp pulling.
bnighter I'm glad my video was able to help you. Thanks for the comment.
Merci beaucoup pour LA video.
Thank you so much for the tips.
Great tip! Thanks for your help! Saved me from having to do it 5 times also! 🤣
The way I do I so I don't have to do so much is if it's not broken or jumped a tooth I mark the belt and the pulleys with a bright nail polish. Then I just replicate it on the new belt. Once it's all put back together I double check it with the timing marks and I like to rotate it 6 times. I know it's overkill but I'm only doing that mistake once lol. Luckily it was my car.
Glad to see this before I give it a try.
You have more balls than I do. I'll pay. Wahhhh
I just put a c clamp on both cams to keep them from moving
Is it possible when you put the belt on you didn't take up the slack on the right hand side?The slack should be where the tensioner is, if not it will cause the gear to move one tooth when you pull the pin on the tensioner. Top left gear and right gear right down to the crank on the right hand side should be tight,left side between the gear and the top gear should have slack so when the tensioner pin is pulled gear marks don't move. Right side is front bumper left side toward the firewall.
This was too long ago for me to remember specifics. Next (if there is one) ill try to make a note. But I know this method has worked on many over the years on this engine.
The video is correct. Ive done several Delta engines and the rear cam always moves off one tooth when tensioner is released. Ive used this method and makes changing the 2.7 belt a breeze
How did you hold the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) to get 138 ft lbs on the crankshaft bolt without turning the engine?
Blue locktite and air impact gun
Blue locktite and air impact gun.
@@Steve4x4 dumb move- crankshafts bolts dont require locktite there a specific torque setting.
@@proanswers ur right.
@@Steve4x4 isn't use of an air impact gun harmful for crankshaft beerings and journals due to the nature of applied loads: short-time but impressive mechanical stresses are developed while there is no oil wedge.
Thank you 👍
Biggest tip is put that damn engine mount back before the belt cover.
Can you give original part number of the belt tensioner Polly and water pump ?
Sorry I cannot. That video was done years ago.
Thanks !
Timing belt on the dark
Come on man
I don't understand ur complaint? It's a tip.. not a how-to video?
Always had the same problem with the rear cam.
Good Lord!!! How much should I pay someone to do this for me in San Diego???? Help!!!
About 4hours labor.
I dont know what the going rate is in S.D. Where I am it's about 125/hr.
thnx
Wish u wouldve actually done the expample
Sorry I couldn't show that work. But understand that I'm a automotive technician first. Being a youtuber is a VERY distant second. It was a customer's car. Not my own. Basically I didn't then and don't now...have the time to set up camera angles and shoot sequences.
But I feel I give enough information. It might be helpful for you to read though all the comments. There have been a few other who have explained other ways of doing this Timing belt. This is just how I do it. In no way I say this is the only way.
Good luck.
Alguien sabe como colocar la cadena interna de las levas de la hiundai santa fe 2.7v6 2008
Is the engine in the 2005 Tuscon GLS 2.7 V6 the same?
Robert Martinez I think it is.. but I cant confirm it.
Appreciate it.
Good luck.
Yeah it is
Its similar, Tucson have 180hp, santa fé 200hp.
question ,when you say right cam which is on the front to the coolant side, not the firewall, cause that would be the left cam..if you and standing in the passager right side looking at the engine ...your left cam is the one by the firewall and the right cam towards the coolant or front of vehicle...please explain...just trying to set that left cam keeps going off a notch ..smh..
Johnny Cortez when ur referring to right side/left side it's always from the view from the driver's seat looking out the windshield ... In the case of a transfered mounted engine (as the case with this Hyundai) ...right side/left side is viewed from the flywheel side looking in the direction to the belts....so on this Hyundai the cam near the firewall is the right side.... cam near the radiator is the left side.
Hope that solves the confusion. and thanks for watching.
thanks steve ,didn't mean to be a smart ass,just trying to see which cam to turn a notch back . the book does not say crap...
Johnny Cortez no sweat... i totally get the confusion.
@@Steve4x4 with a transverse engine the firewall would be the rear side and the radiator would be the front side there is no RIGHT or LEFT position with a transverse (NOT TRANSFERRED mounted no such thing) engine its REAR of engine nearest firewall vs FRONT side (front of vehicle) Its in the hyundai workshop manufacture manual.
@@proanswers i will happily disagree. But you do u and ill do me. Thanks for watching my video.
#zakbagans #SHINEDOWNS #Daughtry
It Took 5 Times? Really ? I've Done Hundreds Of Belts & My Hyundia Was The Easiest . And Everything Lined Up Perfectly First Time . Are You A Technician , Or Just A Mechanic ?
Ur special
Why the hell would you make a video in the dark
With so many ppl who have liked this video. And many who have said it worked... I think that your comment doesn't matter.
If you want professional grade content perhaps you should stay away from UA-cam.
But above all I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment.
.
I am at my wit's end. I bought a Dayco Water Pump / Timing Belt Kit which includes the pump, belt, actuator, camshaft tensioner and ideler pulley. I even contacted Dayco service rep who pumped it up to the Engineer assures me, and I believe him that I have the correct belt. All the old vs. new Hardware is identical. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6757572&jsn=1
For the life of me, I can not get the freaking belt over the tensioner pulley. I have KIA OEM service manual info I still can't get the damn belt on the tensioner pulley. Is there a trick to that? I need like 1/4 to 5/15" more to slip it over the pulley.
Also, when you say move the cam back one tooth, I am thinking you are turning the cam COUNTER clockwise, turning it towards the firewall. Do I understand you correctly.
kb3svj move the cam gear that is closest to the firewall one tooth clockwise towards the center of the engine this will give you slack and allow you to slip the belt on and then you can pull up Slack and allow the slack to go on the side of the tensioner after the belt is installed
OK, I shall try! Thank you!!!
kb3svj if you haven't got it sorted out check out my comment. About how to install the belt it's tried and true everyday
Thank you. I did happen to get the belt on, but I could not get it on
using Steve P's suggestion. What Steve said about setting the cams
back a notch was employed when I managed to get the belt on. I did
though also set the crank shaft back one notch.
I had stopped by
Smail Kia in Greensburg Pa and spoke with one of their techs. He
advised me to take the upper mounting bolt off the hydraulic tensioner
and to loosen the bottom bolt. The bottom bolt acts as a pivot. Also,
I had to take out a bolt to the right of the tension pulley arm so as
to allow the tension pully to have more movement to the right. That
extra bolt is >3" and goes back into the block.
I was then
able to slip the belt over the tensioner pulley easily. I took a small
pry bar and got in behind the hydraulic tensioner torqued the hydraulic
tensioner to the right with little effort. I slipped and started to
turn in the upper bolt. I replaced that 3" bolt.
When I pulled
the pin. The belt tightened, and all three timing marks aligned with
the cam pulleys and the crank shaft. After hand turning the motor over
twice to assure the timing marks all lined up, I went ahead and started
the car. It ran smoothly. Since the water pump ran off the timing
belt, I saw no harm in running the motor. I allowed it to come up to
operating temp.
I replaced the alternator while I was at it
since the one in the car was the original, and I did not want to dig
into the thing again.
(a) freeze the video at the 1:12 mark to see the well-illuminated parts
Hello, I replaced the belt on my car a year ago and I happened to pop off the upper timing cover and the belt is loose on the water pump side. I replaced all of the timing components with OEM parts except for the timing belt, which was a Gates brand belt. Is it normal for the timing belt to have slack on the water pump side? The idler and tensioner sides have good tension, but the water pump side is so loose that I can turn the water pump pulley by hand.
I honestly cant answer this question. But if your engine is running fine I'd say leave it alone. If you are having driveability issues.... then you should double check the installation. This was a clients/customer's vehicle so I had no reason to go back into the timing cover once the job was completed.