Frank, I've been servicing these for about 40 years. Some help for you here for the entire BG1200 to BG3000 series: 1. The Sintered Brass Bearings must be placed in a vacuum chamber to remove the old hardened oil, and then infused with new synthetic oil. Or you can simply buy new bearings and many other parts from BeoParts shop in Denmark. 2. To reduce the Rumble and W&F significantly, the Idler wheel must be overhauled with new rubber at Terry's Rubber Rollers in Michigan USA. I developed a new thicker, more robust and quieter design of the rubber profile, which Terry will install for you on request. 3. Done properly, this TT will operate perfectly for the next 50+ years.
@@divideking1770 10W30 is mineral, not synthetic. Mercedes or not. Your method has applied oil onto the bearing surface only, not into the entire internal granular structure. Your bearings will work OK for a few years until the bearing surface oil dries out again. Only vacuum infusion penetrates the oil into the bearing's complete granular structure. That's how they were made 50 years ago, and that's why they lasted so many decades.
Hi Condor. My question is do B&O or somebody else supply stylus to these tt?. Are the stylus same for BO 1200, 1202 and 1203?. And are there different stylus available, ex MM, MC or Conical, eliptical, naked etc. Would be more than happy for answers and recommendations for homepages on the topic. All the best music lovers.
Does B&O or somebody else supply stylus to these TT? Nobody makes these new anymore, since about 1995. Are the styli the same for BeoGram 1000, 1001, 1200, 1202, 1203, 2000 and 3000? Yes - SP10, SP12, SP14 fit all of these TT's. Are there different stylus available, eg MM - No MC - No Conical - Yes - SP10, SP14 and their non-B&O equivalents Elliptical - Yes - SP12 and their non-B&O equivalents Naked - never made by B&O, but there are many hobbyists/technicians who will rebuild/install whatever stylus tip you want onto an old SP stylus carcass body. Be prepared to pay big bucks for the privilege. Price does not always indicate quality. Buying a Used B&O SP stylus is a serious gamble. The vast majority which are advertised as "good, working" condition are completely shot audio-wise, are painful to listen to, and are good for ONLY retipping. Most have dried-out rubber suspension. Never pay more than about $50 for these styli; consider them as unusable carcasses, and only to be retipped at a reliable technician. In the USA, there is Soundsmith In Europe, there is www.tonabnehmerservice.de/ I have no personal relationship to these companies. Having said all that, I still have a limited stock of Swiss-made NOS SP10-equivalent Bonded Conical styli, from the 1990's. You'll need your own cartridge for this - I do not supply the cartridge. You can check it here: www.etsy.com/shop/CondorAudio
Hello from Finland. Thanks for showing what a nightmare it is to assemble the belt. I’m very experienced maintenange engineer having over 55 years in the electronics and have similar problems as you. 😁
Sponge looks like an oil well. The bushings look like Sintered Bronze Oilite type. Same on my Garrard 401 hysteresis motor. Apparently the bronze is formed from tiny grains and is porous holding oil pre soaked at the factory. Oiling the Rotor seems counter intuitive because it is supposed to be an air gap. Could get sticky and dusty and stop it again... I got really unlucky buying one of these last week. The eBay seller said "for parts not working" but did not describe it had no motor. My friend said it would make a great cheese board. Cool video.
Wow what a beautiful Mechanism. You did really well. I was so thinking a hammer was coming at the end when the platter was being stubborn. You are a better man than I. :)
Great video! I was waiting for something like this already for many years. I have on exactly like this one which is spinning a little bit slow stored in a closet. Time got get it out! Thanks
Hi TechJump, great work. And all of you in the comments. My question is do B&O or somebody else supply stylus to these tt?. Are the stylus same for BO 1200, 1202 and 1203?. And are there different stylus available, ex MM, MC or Conical, eliptical, naked etc. Would be more than happy for answers and recommendations for homepages on the topic. All the best music lovers.
I just converted my old B&O RX2 to standard cartridge format. P mount and 1/2inch, my original arm was damaged so i modified it with 3d printed carbon fiber mount and it worked great.. im planing to do a video on how i accomplished it..
Amazing . I have different model but I could not let it play .. no headshell available. Anyways , what did you applied on the motor using the cotton bud ?
I'm watching this because I have to repair my father's old 1200 or 1202. Primarily I think it needs a new belt, but taking it apart could be very interesting :^)
Next time put the belt around the platter, turn down the screws and turn the machine around and from the bottom it is very easy to put the belt around the pully! I just found a 1200 and thinking about repairing it because everything seems to work properly but the cartridge and needles are very hard to find and very expensive and i'm not sure if it's worth it....
You have to add heat to the brass bearings to sweat the old oil out and then add new oil and the diagonal alumnium bridge is actually not needed and if removed it will give a more responsive player.
Where is the diagonal aluminum bridge are you talking about? Not sure I have one on mine, which is a 3000 from 1974... just getting ready to do mine, I thought I would watch this guy... you're right, as no one knows how to treat sintered bearings in this day and age. But sometimes you get lucky, as this guy probably will... curious about the aluminum bridge though... as I can't tell what the makeup of the pieces are.... I was thinking you meant the anodized gold piece...
Dont know about the 3000, and years ago i did the 1200. But the lowest placed diagonnally alu piece, i think its just for ridgigity during transport, and if removed the 1200 will be more responsive.
Frank,
I've been servicing these for about 40 years. Some help for you here for the entire BG1200 to BG3000 series:
1. The Sintered Brass Bearings must be placed in a vacuum chamber to remove the old hardened oil, and then infused with new synthetic oil. Or you can simply buy new bearings and many other parts from BeoParts shop in Denmark.
2. To reduce the Rumble and W&F significantly, the Idler wheel must be overhauled with new rubber at Terry's Rubber Rollers in Michigan USA. I developed a new thicker, more robust and quieter design of the rubber profile, which Terry will install for you on request.
3. Done properly, this TT will operate perfectly for the next 50+ years.
I washed bearings and oil pads in isopropanol.Soaked them with genuine Mercedes Benz 10W30 oil 😁😁 and motor works like new.
@@divideking1770 10W30 is mineral, not synthetic. Mercedes or not. Your method has applied oil onto the bearing surface only, not into the entire internal granular structure. Your bearings will work OK for a few years until the bearing surface oil dries out again. Only vacuum infusion penetrates the oil into the bearing's complete granular structure. That's how they were made 50 years ago, and that's why they lasted so many decades.
Sorry 5W30.We can buy bearing and they not expensive.Cartritge is the pain in the pocket.0@@CondorAudio
Hi Condor. My question is do B&O or somebody else supply stylus to these tt?. Are the stylus same for BO 1200, 1202 and 1203?. And are there different stylus available, ex MM, MC or Conical, eliptical, naked etc. Would be more than happy for answers and recommendations for homepages on the topic. All the best music lovers.
Does B&O or somebody else supply stylus to these TT? Nobody makes these new anymore, since about 1995.
Are the styli the same for BeoGram 1000, 1001, 1200, 1202, 1203, 2000 and 3000? Yes - SP10, SP12, SP14 fit all of these TT's.
Are there different stylus available, eg
MM - No
MC - No
Conical - Yes - SP10, SP14 and their non-B&O equivalents
Elliptical - Yes - SP12 and their non-B&O equivalents
Naked - never made by B&O, but there are many hobbyists/technicians who will rebuild/install whatever stylus tip you want onto an old SP stylus carcass body. Be prepared to pay big bucks for the privilege. Price does not always indicate quality.
Buying a Used B&O SP stylus is a serious gamble. The vast majority which are advertised as "good, working" condition are completely shot audio-wise, are painful to listen to, and are good for ONLY retipping. Most have dried-out rubber suspension. Never pay more than about $50 for these styli; consider them as unusable carcasses, and only to be retipped at a reliable technician.
In the USA, there is Soundsmith
In Europe, there is www.tonabnehmerservice.de/
I have no personal relationship to these companies.
Having said all that, I still have a limited stock of Swiss-made NOS SP10-equivalent Bonded Conical styli, from the 1990's.
You'll need your own cartridge for this - I do not supply the cartridge.
You can check it here:
www.etsy.com/shop/CondorAudio
Hello from Finland. Thanks for showing what a nightmare it is to assemble the belt. I’m very experienced maintenange engineer having over 55 years in the electronics and have similar problems as you. 😁
Sponge looks like an oil well. The bushings look like Sintered Bronze Oilite type. Same on my Garrard 401 hysteresis motor. Apparently the bronze is formed from tiny grains and is porous holding oil pre soaked at the factory. Oiling the Rotor seems counter intuitive because it is supposed to be an air gap. Could get sticky and dusty and stop it again...
I got really unlucky buying one of these last week. The eBay seller said "for parts not working" but did not describe it had no motor. My friend said it would make a great cheese board.
Cool video.
Thank you for the input, really good info!
Sorry to hear about your cheese board :(
Wow what a beautiful Mechanism. You did really well. I was so thinking a hammer was coming at the end when the platter was being stubborn. You are a better man than I. :)
Thank you.. well the camera keeps me away from the hammer.
What a gorgeous turntable, would make a lot of high end new stuff look cheap and old fashioned if it were sold today.
Its heavy and solid and it actually looks better IRL.
As a Ban Olufsen collector .with many B&O turntables .. every time i desire one more ..I would love to own a 1200 also .A gorgeous turntable
Hey hello Frank,
Thanks a lot for the video which greatly helped me.
Have you play any record on that Beogram? How is it going?
Great video! I was waiting for something like this already for many years. I have on exactly like this one which is spinning a little bit slow stored in a closet. Time got get it out! Thanks
In my years of maintaining printers, the sponge or soft foam is there to continuously lubricate the bearings.
Hi, really cool video! I own an 1800, want to tear it apart )) Which lubricant did you use for the bearings?
Hi TechJump, great work. And all of you in the comments. My question is do B&O or somebody else supply stylus to these tt?. Are the stylus same for BO 1200, 1202 and 1203?. And are there different stylus available, ex MM, MC or Conical, eliptical, naked etc. Would be more than happy for answers and recommendations for homepages on the topic. All the best music lovers.
Thanks for the nice Video. The IPod and other Apple products were inspired by BRAUN though.
Steve Jobs had BeoCenter Stereo in his dining room, its in the book. So at least he had it in this mind somewhere.
When you put the motor back together, you must calibrate the "rotor" inside so it runs freely. (B&O service manual)
I just converted my old B&O RX2 to standard cartridge format. P mount and 1/2inch, my original arm was damaged so i modified it with 3d printed carbon fiber mount and it worked great.. im planing to do a video on how i accomplished it..
Amazing . I have different model but I could not let it play .. no headshell available. Anyways , what did you applied on the motor using the cotton bud ?
I'm watching this because I have to repair my father's old 1200 or 1202. Primarily I think it needs a new belt, but taking it apart could be very interesting :^)
The motor might need to be taken care of.
@@TechJump Yes, I commented before I saw all of the video (like the idiot I am), and I think you're absolutely right!
how did you attach the 33/45 wheel to the engine? Small screw or glue?
Nice video! Thank you
Greetings from Germany
With the set-screw grub, which is already inside the Brass Cone.
Would anyone recommend this turntable many thanks Mairt
Where to buy cartridge SP 14 or SP10 :(
Beogram 1200
Try Ebay
I have an original SP14 for sale if you're still interested!
Next time put the belt around the platter, turn down the screws and turn the machine around and from the bottom it is very easy to put the belt around the pully! I just found a 1200 and thinking about repairing it because everything seems to work properly but the cartridge and needles are very hard to find and very expensive and i'm not sure if it's worth it....
You got it sir, very easy from under, just did mine.
Yo, where's the follow up..?
hey there, i need help in setting up mine.
Very Very VERY GOOD and thanks
I have this but nt working
Fix it
next time first belt on plate than bring plate close to the little wheel and than put belt on plate whit your finger trust me i done the battle haha
You have to add heat to the brass bearings to sweat the old oil out and then add new oil and the diagonal alumnium bridge is actually not needed and if removed it
will give a more responsive player.
Where is the diagonal aluminum bridge are you talking about? Not sure I have one on mine, which is a 3000 from 1974... just getting ready to do mine, I thought I would watch this guy... you're right, as no one knows how to treat sintered bearings in this day and age. But sometimes you get lucky, as this guy probably will... curious about the aluminum bridge though... as I can't tell what the makeup of the pieces are.... I was thinking you meant the anodized gold piece...
Dont know about the 3000, and years ago i did the 1200. But the lowest placed diagonnally alu piece, i think its just for ridgigity during transport, and if removed the 1200 will be more responsive.