As per Parts-Express: With regard to using two subwoofers that are identical and in mono. You could use just one. You would be able to split the signal coming out of the unit to go to both subwoofers. This would lower the signal received by each subwoofer, so you would just adjust the gain on the amplifiers to match. Another option would be if your subwoofer amplifier(s) have a line output. In this case, you would run the output from the DSP-LF and connect them to the first subwoofer. Then run a cable from the line output on the subwoofer amplifier connected to the DSP-LF to the line in on the second subwoofer. This way should maintain the signal level.
Haha! Not sure if you saw in the video, but we're in the middle of a major renovation. That was hung temporary to stay out of the way. I have some plans for that in the future.
I think at $60 assuming you have an iPhone and one sub it's a great deal but at $120 you'd be better off with a minidsp and an rta app and making the corrections yourself. I use spectroid on android for when I need to do measurements. Also I would have liked to see you use a calibrated microphone to compare to what the app was showing.
@@joshhyyym I have a UMIK-1 now but from what I could tell it was decently accurate down to say 40 or so hz but I never compared directly to the umik so I'm really just guessing based on trends. Also I used a pixel 2xl for that so it would have been however accurate that phone was as every phone would be different in terms of accuracy. Realistically though you only need it to be so accurate to get decent results as you're really just trying to reduce peaks and flatten everything out and if it is off by a couple db it's not the end of the world. For what it's worth even calibrated microphones like the UMIK-1 are calibrated in batches so those are even off as well unless you buy an individually calibrated one from cross-spectrum.
@@TylerStout I have a umik-2 and my Sony xperia 5ii measures pretty decently down to 40hz too but not much further (I doubt the iPhone measures accurately that low too though)
I building another boom box this time a 2.1 with a TPS3116D2 amp and 20A 24v switching power supply, I grabbed a pair of 8" Dynalab woofers and I stuck them in cardboard box to get a quick sound test and sound pretty good for being in a cardboard box, then I see online Dynalab is a name that keeps being mentioned as one of those "white van" brands...? They seem well made, good beefie motor and they sound decent and are really really good looking driver too. (I bought a Goldwood PAC sub an it seems pretty decent too and cone and basket looks almost exactly like the dynalabs just bigger vented motor and a gasket) why would PE sell a white van brand or is that not the case...? I added $15 Soundstream tweeters with an external bass blocker filter, and basic sound test to see how works together The whole little rascals setup sounds pretty friggin good loud and has nice bass even with the sub in a modified .88cf sub box, midbass woofers in cardboard box and 1" tweets tossed on top! Now time build a nice enclosure.
White van speaker, just means that they put some drivers in a box and hooked up some basic components to make it work. Basically they wanted to look high-end, but don't care about the sound quality. The drivers that they use, aren't necessarily bad. They just aren't being used effectively. We are actually doing a build on my patron page using those. So far I've been really happy with them for the price. Going sealed doesn't lead to a lot of bass, but for the price they aren't bad.
I agree this could be nice to have in some systems (the office 2.1 setup?), but not in most home theaters today. Denon/Marantz AVRs with Audyssey have been equalizing subwoofers for 10+ years. There is also Anthem ARC, Dirac Live, and others found on modern A/V Receivers. One problem you'll run into is the microphones in our smartphones aren't sensitive below 35 Hz.
I would of bought it months ago, but the 3.5 jacks are just dumb. I have NEVER had good luck with any cable/adapter.And you would have to find a good way to support the rca cables that are just hanging off the side in those tiny 3.5 jacks .Waiting for a newer rca version.
I've had no issues with these. In fact they are very secure. It's a little back heavy, but I huge mine behind my sub. I'd rather it have RCA as well, but for the price/performance, I really can't complain. It's a minor inconvenience.
What if you have 2 subs, of course you would need to buy two of them but how would it work with trying to calibrate both speakers working at the same time in your listening position?
1:07 I've heard that. It sounds weak. Seems like the room is 70% of the sound. Reminds me of how a car stereo sound from outside the car... Tin cans and Easter hay comes to mind.
wish they had another version for a bit more money that was balanced, running thing's balanced will always be superior to single ended anything, mini dsp did release the shd series which is vastly superior to the horribly measuring mini dsp hd. Definitely give that a look.
I just found this channel and subscribed. Great video! Very interesting piece of equipment. I'll have to look into this considering I been looking into getting a mini dsp anyway.
Thank you for the compliment. I really appreciate it. If you ever have any questions, feel free to ask. If you do end up getting one, let me know your thoughts.
@@Toid Will do. With my setup is a little different. I have denon 4400 reciever sub output 1 going to two svs 1000 subs. Then I have output 2. Rca jacks going 2 a rolls mb15 cleanbox xlr outputs going to crown amps to drive bass shakers and 4 nearfield subs. So this thing or the mini dsp is going to be a little confusing
excellent video, so basically a cheaper alternative to a minidsp. I wonder if there is one for 2 or 4 subwoofers. I currently have 2 subs, but will be adding two more in the rear at some point.
Hey there. Great video, so happy that you are helping the DIY community learn and sharing your experience. Do you think this work if you connected subwoofers in series... or would 2 of these DSP-LF units need to be bought?
Just ordered. A how to vid for running Dual Subs?? I wish I ordered thru your link if you get a “kick back” but I did comment that you were the reason I purchased.
Thanks Joe. It is an affiliate link, I do appreciate that. You can definitely do dual subs if they are the same make and model. I'm going to have to test out two different subwoofers. See if I can just do a system response. I think you're going to need multiple DSPs for differing subd though.
Hi, great video! What I am wondering.. if you flatten the frequency curve of a sub (or general speaker) will you not loose your audio coloring of your amplifier / setup? In other words, with a completely flat audiophile curve, won’t all speakers (brands) sound exactly the same?
Actually this would be perfect for that set-up. I didn't show that in the video, but basically you'd take your LFE out of your receiver, run it into the DSP-LF then run the out of the DSP-LF to your wireless transmitter. You'd still maintain wireless to your subwoofer but gain the DSP.
Thank you Nick for this excellent review. I've been researching subwoofers and speakers a lot over the years and wasn't really looking forward to buying minidsp and a microphone and learning how to manually adjust it all properly. I also want to help friends and family adjust theirs and this looks like it's just the ticket since I also don't want to have to do complicated troubleshoots later on down the road. I do have a couple of questions about the dsp-lf. 1. For multiple subs do you need one per sub? 2. Were you able to test it with nearfield subs?
If it's the exact same subwoofer, you should be able to use just one unit. I haven't personally tested that, but I'm theory it should work. I have not tested near field, but my friend is getting one this week and is going to test it on his near-field sub.
@@jybikerboy1 I am sorry for not updating this, but yes. My friend Robbie used the DSP-lf with his nearfield sub and said it made a world of difference. Unfortunately he lives 8 hours away, so I personally have not heard it.
I really liked that small DSP review! But, did you saw this www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dspb-k-dsp-kernel-board--325-130? Would be great if you could do a review of that unit too. It looks like very budget friendly little DSP that can be integrated right into the sub-woofer.
I've got a review coming out soon on the ICP module of that along with the DSP boards. They are very powerful. As long as you understand Sigma Studios. bit.ly/DSPB-ICP1 Pretty much the same unit, except one is built into the amplifier bit.ly/DSP250 and the one you showed can be used with any amplifier.
How did you do with your Gain on the subwoofer after the measurement? Did you increase it or leave it? When I run through the program, DSP wants a maximum of 25% on the subwoofer.
@@Toid Okay, I have not thought of that. I just thought it was weird that it did not want a higher gain. The base is almost non-existent. Sure, it's tighter, cleaner. Much of the room gain has disappeared. But so does the base ...
@@HoPPa8SkiT yeah if that's the case. Your room calibration probably tuned it to a higher peak. Now that that peak is gone, you'll probably have to turn up your gain.
@@Toid Tested to increase my gain all the way & it shows how well the little dsp works. Even at 100%, the base is tight, controlled & it just disappears into the sound image. But I'll test it tomorrow. Both to run dsp only then auto calibration after. The clock is a bit much here in Sweden to calibrate a subwoofer 😎
Have you ever gotten the THD >20% error while doing the auto correction? I dont know why this is happening. Turn the sub down maybe? I have an SVS pb1000 so i wouod be surprised if its distorting that much.
between the sub and it's port. I would try it both down firing and turn it on it on it's side to have the sub firing into the room for the first measurement. I am not sure which will work better, but luckily this is a very quick and easy test.
I have a problem with Dayton dsp-lf. Can anyone with knowledge help? I bought this product to use with my JL D110 subwoofer and I didn't have any problems. I finished my hammer DIY subwoofer last week and started driving it with the Behringer EP4000. When I make a direct ep4000 connection from the AVR, my hammer works as it should. But when I insert DSP-LF and run room calibration, a "click click" sound is heard from my hammer and it does not calibrate. How can I use DSP-lf with ep4000?
A new subscriber here....with a question... Can the subwoofer volume be adjusted using the app on an android phone ? I too often need to make volume adjustments, as each song can have vastly differing bass levels.
Welcome! Glad to have you on board! The hope is that once you use the app and the device, that you don't have to do that. But the app itself really isn't designed to do that.
Hey man 😊 Couple of quick questions: I have 2 subs, can I control 2 devices with the same app? And....I do not want Iphone crap 🤣🤣🤣 so....if I borrow my GF's crapphone, does that mean I can not use my Android to control it? Great content, as usual btw 😊
Great question. Many receivers will test the subwoofer and change the delay, gain and other things, but they leave the response unchanged. Some high end receivers do this to a degree. They typically have something called Sub EQ. But often times a Home Theater receiver will not DSP the subwoofer at all. My Marantz I am using does have room correction, but as you can tell by the video, no sub eq.
4:03 you lost me at idevice. Is there not some cheap external calibrated microphone that performs at least as good as an internal microphone on a mobile phone? You provided one example at the end. Their answer seems to ignore that option, or other options. I do wish more companies would realize that 74% of smart phone users in the world are Android, and they should weigh that when releasing iOS only complete versions of their software.
I agree. In the wrap up, I said just that. That I wish they would have their cheap calibrated imm-6 mic work with it. As of right now Android works, it just won't auto-tune it. For auto-tune, you need Apple.
Yeah that's a bit of a cop out. The iPhone microphone can't cost more than $0.50 and every android phone from the last 10 years can use a usb microphone ver usb OTG.
@@TuiCatNZ the other issue is Dayton doesn't own the iwoofer software. It's a third party app. So they can't just add support for an external mic. Hopefully, that will change if this catches on.
The problem with those 74% of Android phones is they're mostly made up of cheap worthless phones. I moved to iPhone after close to 10 years with Android and love iPhone. I got tired of dealing with Android to put it simply. I had too many issues with them. Don't get me wrong there's some good Android phones, but their company practices make me less interested in them. (I don't like things with Apple but so far my wants and needs are taken care of where Android fell very short)
@@JoshM7 26% of the Android market is still a _ton_ of premium phone options. Switching ecosystems should be about preference for that OS and ecosystem. We're not starved for high end Android phones these days.
Can I purchase one of these to tune all my subs individually. Or does the DSP have to remain on the individual subwoofer in order to keep it to specifications?
I really can't say, since I've never tested it in that type of configuration. I personally would just replace the subwoofer portion of the minidsp with this.
Great question. If they are all the same, it shouldn't make a difference. It'll do a system response for the listening area. If they are different, then you'd have different near-field responses so that would affect it depending on the DSP chosen.
i love sound but dislike most movies they just suck in hollyweird theses days but a few good old ones to watch .LOL Tucker and Dale VS Evil is a good modern movie
It's really tough for those android slaves that hasn't seen the light yet :) Its definetly becomming better the last couple years, but if you use your phone or tablet for some kind of "pro" stuff, Apple just is the way to go, because there is way to many different hardware differences in android devices + they often run different and modded version of Android, that makes it a pain in the butt to guarantie that an app + hardware will run flawless on most devices. With Apple It's just way easier cause most of it runs on the same or 100% compatible hardware. And this isn't even a specific "pro" usage item. This is not a rant about Android vs Apple, just shows there is both pro's and cons of both closed and open standards eco systems.
What a waste of money, wouldn’t pair with either of my iPads and tech help was no help. I can send back for refund but already bought the app and the additional fittings so still out $18, plus a day of frustration. Steer clear!
When are these companies going to realize that Android has the major market share and start supporting Android apps and devices? I refuse to support a company that ignores Android users
@@Toid the home theater calibration mics can be had from 18-30 on average. Maybe someone should reach out and offer testing help of the shelf mics against their iphone app. I would gladly. I have a few iPhones, an ipad and a half dozen android models. All you would have to do is test a dozen times on apple then again on the android device get the averages for each and create an adjustment curve profile for the android app. Let the company know I will gladly beta test for a bunch of samsung models for them in return for a free module or two.
@@dominicdymond the issue is the app this product uses is not Dayton's app. The DSP uses a third party app. So the app developer would have to make those changes.
40 hz could not be from your room unless you have 8m ceilings. Most likely it is from passive radiator ie sub itself. Fixing fr doesn't mean you got rid of long decay of sub resonances
I dont get why people look for a flat response in LF. Your ears are super insensitive to LF so you loose so much impact LF information with a flat response below 100hz imo. They should give you a way to pick a house curve that it tunes to, that would be awesome.
Not sure I quite understand what your implying. This would make all of the frequency that the subwoofer handles flat to your room. That's a very good thing. If you're insensitive to low frequency, you can still turn the gain up, and that's still only going to affect your low frequencies. But by tuning it flat to your room, you no longer have huge variances in your low frequency, that you would typically have. That means from 20 Hertz to 100 Hertz you'll have a nice flat frequency response that you can adjust to whatever volume level you want.
@@Toid It is all just preference. I prefer a bit more sub bass and impact than a flat response provides. It would be cool if you could imput a desired house curve for the sub and for it to EQ to that. You could use the method you described, but then you still dont have a rising curve to compensate for the lower sensitivity of your ears at LF. You are going to boost everything from the sub, so the 80hz region or wherever your xo region is will sound audibly louder than the lets say 45hz region even though they are equal volume on a FR graph; Instead of compensating by having a rising curve which will make the lower frequencies audibly the same volume as the higher ones. You also run into phasing issues with that method between your sub and mids since you are now boosting the point where the mids interact with the sub. Effectively raising the xo point of the sub without doing the same with the mids which is going to give you a dip at your xo point that cant be fixed with TA alone. You could compensate for this by leaving the mids xo alone but lowering the sub xo point to leave a "gap" in the crossover or the other way around. (I use quotes because you arent really leaving a gap, you are just tailoring the acoustic XO back to where you want it by lowering the electronic XO, to compensate for the higher DB level of the sub vs mids) If instead you tuned the sub with a rising response in the LF tapering down to meet the mids at their volume properly level matched, they would still sum properly. And you have more impact, no dip at XO point or comb filtering, and equally as un-localized LF If you have the means and processing power to give it a try, I would suggest it just for fun. Its a good exercise in acoustic theory and you way like the results =)
@@picassoimpaler3243 I got you. I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that you wanted all of your bass frequencies higher than everything else. You could still do that with this . But it wouldn't allow you to do the Auto-Tune. Instead you would need to manually EQ it.
I bought this on the basis of this review, and I have to say I'm extremely dissappointed. It does not keep settings, and even if you save a preset it is impossible to get the app to load a preset. Also, you cannot turn off the high pass and low pass filters, the high pass is especially annoying as the most you can get it out of the way is lowering it to 20hz, meaning it is still shaving off 3db at 20hz. This product is an unfortunate case of so nearly there, but has some fundamental flaws that makes it complete garbage. Avoid it and buy a better product, like the minidsp 2x4.
It sounds like there is a problem with your unit. It is true about the high pass. However, this is typically the same type of high pass that is found on almost every home theater subwoofer plate amplifier already. Unless you are using a pro amplifier, the high pass shouldn't be an issue. Of course, not every product is for everyone. I also like the mini-dsp and think it's fantastic for those that really want to learn the ins and outs of DSP.
The reason it can use these specific phone microphones is because Apple buys from the same supplier. Since this is the case, they can actually calibrate inside the program those particular microphones. it’s really no different than the calibration my phone you’d get with the surroundsound receiver.
Buy it from Amazon: amzn.to/2NIrhGo
Buy the DSP-LF: bit.ly/dsp-lf
Turn those 3.5mm to RCA: amzn.to/3ayysek
@UCt6N0zJGFQck6e7fIUM3vlg I agree. That's why I mentioned it at the 10:04 mark.
As per Parts-Express: With regard to using two subwoofers that are
identical and in mono. You could use just one. You would be able to
split the signal coming out of the unit to go to both subwoofers. This
would lower the signal received by each subwoofer, so you would just
adjust the gain on the amplifiers to match. Another option would be if
your subwoofer amplifier(s) have a line output. In this case, you would
run the output from the DSP-LF and connect them to the first subwoofer.
Then run a cable from the line output on the subwoofer amplifier
connected to the DSP-LF to the line in on the second subwoofer. This way
should maintain the signal level.
A "rule of thumb" i have always used is, "if you can "hear" your sub, it's not tuned properly". Is should disappear in the room.
Infinite baffle
Any sub will give you extended bass, so by definition, you should hear it. Besides, calibration testing will eliminate subjectivity errors.
dude, as soon as you said "you can't get much for $60" I KNEW you were gonna talk about the DSP LF!!!
I'm telling you, it's the Best value in Home Theater. Great call on your part!
If they could make a version with high level inputs, and throw a usb microphone into the package it would be awesome.
Nice to see you post!
Wires hanging down from the TV, love that look.
Haha! Not sure if you saw in the video, but we're in the middle of a major renovation. That was hung temporary to stay out of the way. I have some plans for that in the future.
Definitely going to try this, thanks for the tip!
You're Welcome! I am excited for you.
Not a bad deal for $60! Beats the price of a Mini DSP if you only have 1 sub. Keep up the good work man!
Hi,
Should be play test tone while using the wizard and any music
beats it in price, but not quality...
I use an old mono Behringer PEQ to notch out the room peaks.
Great video! I'm sold 👍
I think at $60 assuming you have an iPhone and one sub it's a great deal but at $120 you'd be better off with a minidsp and an rta app and making the corrections yourself. I use spectroid on android for when I need to do measurements. Also I would have liked to see you use a calibrated microphone to compare to what the app was showing.
Spectroid isn't calibrated to your phone. I expect the microphone response from your phone is all over the place < 200hz
@@joshhyyym I have a UMIK-1 now but from what I could tell it was decently accurate down to say 40 or so hz but I never compared directly to the umik so I'm really just guessing based on trends. Also I used a pixel 2xl for that so it would have been however accurate that phone was as every phone would be different in terms of accuracy. Realistically though you only need it to be so accurate to get decent results as you're really just trying to reduce peaks and flatten everything out and if it is off by a couple db it's not the end of the world. For what it's worth even calibrated microphones like the UMIK-1 are calibrated in batches so those are even off as well unless you buy an individually calibrated one from cross-spectrum.
@@TylerStout I have a umik-2 and my Sony xperia 5ii measures pretty decently down to 40hz too but not much further (I doubt the iPhone measures accurately that low too though)
⚾️👍. Also a Red Sox fan here. 👍⚾️
I building another boom box this time a 2.1 with a TPS3116D2 amp and 20A 24v switching power supply, I grabbed a pair of 8" Dynalab woofers and I stuck them in cardboard box to get a quick sound test and sound pretty good for being in a cardboard box, then I see online Dynalab is a name that keeps being mentioned as one of those "white van" brands...? They seem well made, good beefie motor and they sound decent and are really really good looking driver too. (I bought a Goldwood PAC sub an it seems pretty decent too and cone and basket looks almost exactly like the dynalabs just bigger vented motor and a gasket) why would PE sell a white van brand or is that not the case...? I added $15 Soundstream tweeters with an external bass blocker filter, and basic sound test to see how works together The whole little rascals setup sounds pretty friggin good loud and has nice bass even with the sub in a modified .88cf sub box, midbass woofers in cardboard box and 1" tweets tossed on top! Now time build a nice enclosure.
White van speaker, just means that they put some drivers in a box and hooked up some basic components to make it work. Basically they wanted to look high-end, but don't care about the sound quality. The drivers that they use, aren't necessarily bad. They just aren't being used effectively. We are actually doing a build on my patron page using those. So far I've been really happy with them for the price. Going sealed doesn't lead to a lot of bass, but for the price they aren't bad.
Thank you for the review I will definitely get it.
I agree this could be nice to have in some systems (the office 2.1 setup?), but not in most home theaters today. Denon/Marantz AVRs with Audyssey have been equalizing subwoofers for 10+ years. There is also Anthem ARC, Dirac Live, and others found on modern A/V Receivers.
One problem you'll run into is the microphones in our smartphones aren't sensitive below 35 Hz.
Exactly
That’s a sweet piece for $60
This may work well for smaller subs, but I wonder if the mic on a phone will pick up lower frequencies very well.
That’s what calibration files are for.
I would of bought it months ago, but the 3.5 jacks are just dumb. I have NEVER had good luck with any cable/adapter.And you would have to find a good way to support the rca cables that are just hanging off the side in those tiny 3.5 jacks .Waiting for a newer rca version.
I've had no issues with these. In fact they are very secure. It's a little back heavy, but I huge mine behind my sub. I'd rather it have RCA as well, but for the price/performance, I really can't complain. It's a minor inconvenience.
@@Toid They are awesome for the price for sure.
You could just buy RCA barrel connectors and use those for the adapters for your RCA cables
What if you have 2 subs, of course you would need to buy two of them but how would it work with trying to calibrate both speakers working at the same time in your listening position?
Unfortunately by purchasing a dsp for each sub channel, and tuning each one separately 😬
1:07 I've heard that. It sounds weak. Seems like the room is 70% of the sound. Reminds me of how a car stereo sound from outside the car... Tin cans and Easter hay comes to mind.
wish they had another version for a bit more money that was balanced, running thing's balanced will always be superior to single ended anything, mini dsp did release the shd series which is vastly superior to the horribly measuring mini dsp hd. Definitely give that a look.
Wow it's super cool device...I like to know is this can be used for multiple subs.
I just found this channel and subscribed. Great video! Very interesting piece of equipment. I'll have to look into this considering I been looking into getting a mini dsp anyway.
Thank you for the compliment. I really appreciate it. If you ever have any questions, feel free to ask. If you do end up getting one, let me know your thoughts.
@@Toid Will do. With my setup is a little different. I have denon 4400 reciever sub output 1 going to two svs 1000 subs. Then I have output 2. Rca jacks going 2 a rolls mb15 cleanbox xlr outputs going to crown amps to drive bass shakers and 4 nearfield subs. So this thing or the mini dsp is going to be a little confusing
@@brnmaull sounds like a nice setup. I love bass shakers. I just moved and haven't hooked up my theater yet, but I have my bass shakers waiting.
@@Toid Yea me to the only thing I don't like is that they fall off a cliff around 30hz. I'm actually in the process of designing a hoverboss.
So with my duel stereo subs I need two of these?
excellent video, so basically a cheaper alternative to a minidsp. I wonder if there is one for 2 or 4 subwoofers. I currently have 2 subs, but will be adding two more in the rear at some point.
Hey there. Great video, so happy that you are helping the DIY community learn and sharing your experience. Do you think this work if you connected subwoofers in series... or would 2 of these DSP-LF units need to be bought?
If it's the same subwoofer, it will absolutely work
@@Toid Gotcha, so a splitter after the output?
@@Toid Thanks!
Just ordered. A how to vid for running Dual Subs?? I wish I ordered thru your link if you get a “kick back” but I did comment that you were the reason I purchased.
Oh yes... also interested on how to do this with dual subs!
Thanks Joe. It is an affiliate link, I do appreciate that. You can definitely do dual subs if they are the same make and model. I'm going to have to test out two different subwoofers. See if I can just do a system response. I think you're going to need multiple DSPs for differing subd though.
Hi, great video! What I am wondering.. if you flatten the frequency curve of a sub (or general speaker) will you not loose your audio coloring of your amplifier / setup? In other words, with a completely flat audiophile curve, won’t all speakers (brands) sound exactly the same?
Bring the bass mekanik back!
This video is 3 years old. Since then have things changed something to be able to use this Sub DSP with Android or some other way?
I would love this but I use a rsl speedwoofer with wireless connection which I love. Permanently connecting the dayton box is a bummer
Actually this would be perfect for that set-up. I didn't show that in the video, but basically you'd take your LFE out of your receiver, run it into the DSP-LF then run the out of the DSP-LF to your wireless transmitter. You'd still maintain wireless to your subwoofer but gain the DSP.
The mini dsp 2x4 is now $250. Wasnt it like $80 a few years ago??
I wish there was a windows app...
Funny how married couples start looking alike . She can even pass as your sister .
Thank you Nick for this excellent review. I've been researching subwoofers and speakers a lot over the years and wasn't really looking forward to buying minidsp and a microphone and learning how to manually adjust it all properly. I also want to help friends and family adjust theirs and this looks like it's just the ticket since I also don't want to have to do complicated troubleshoots later on down the road. I do have a couple of questions about the dsp-lf. 1. For multiple subs do you need one per sub? 2. Were you able to test it with nearfield subs?
If it's the exact same subwoofer, you should be able to use just one unit. I haven't personally tested that, but I'm theory it should work. I have not tested near field, but my friend is getting one this week and is going to test it on his near-field sub.
@@Toid Have you had a chance to test with nearfield subs yet with your friend?
@@jybikerboy1 I am sorry for not updating this, but yes. My friend Robbie used the DSP-lf with his nearfield sub and said it made a world of difference. Unfortunately he lives 8 hours away, so I personally have not heard it.
@@Toid Thanks brother! Glad to hear it.
Hello. Are you using the SW test tone from the receiver to run a graph? Thanks
I really liked that small DSP review! But, did you saw this www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dspb-k-dsp-kernel-board--325-130? Would be great if you could do a review of that unit too. It looks like very budget friendly little DSP that can be integrated right into the sub-woofer.
I've got a review coming out soon on the ICP module of that along with the DSP boards. They are very powerful. As long as you understand Sigma Studios. bit.ly/DSPB-ICP1 Pretty much the same unit, except one is built into the amplifier bit.ly/DSP250 and the one you showed can be used with any amplifier.
How did you do with your Gain on the subwoofer after the measurement? Did you increase it or leave it? When I run through the program, DSP wants a maximum of 25% on the subwoofer.
I left my gain. However the better thing to do would be to DSP it first, then rerun your auto calibration.
@@Toid Okay, I have not thought of that. I just thought it was weird that it did not want a higher gain. The base is almost non-existent. Sure, it's tighter, cleaner. Much of the room gain has disappeared. But so does the base ...
@@HoPPa8SkiT yeah if that's the case. Your room calibration probably tuned it to a higher peak. Now that that peak is gone, you'll probably have to turn up your gain.
@@Toid Tested to increase my gain all the way & it shows how well the little dsp works. Even at 100%, the base is tight, controlled & it just disappears into the sound image.
But I'll test it tomorrow. Both to run dsp only then auto calibration after. The clock is a bit much here in Sweden to calibrate a subwoofer 😎
New to audio measurements. How would I measure a sealed subwoofer with dual 15's in the same box?
Measure from the middle joint, equal distance from both centers of the cones.
Does it work also with Stereo Speakers to correct their "Bass-Part". Or does the Box does not pass the other frequencies through?
great!
Have you ever gotten the THD >20% error while doing the auto correction? I dont know why this is happening. Turn the sub down maybe? I have an SVS pb1000 so i wouod be surprised if its distorting that much.
Toid do you have any specs for this gizmo? Like THD & Noise, LP and HP filter ranges, number of available PEQs etc.
Daddy Shark is reading a script. Watch his eyes :)
Great review. Is there a track you suggest using to tune?
You need a pink noise source not music.
cool i can get this for a $100 round about in canada would you recomend this product...?..for a pair of mini martys 18s
Hi , Should i play test tone or any music while running the wizard in iWoofer Pro. Please advice
I have a Denon 3500 with 2 sub inputs and I have 2 Klipsch RP12 Subs.
WOULD I NEED 2 OF THESE (1 per sub) ?
Where would you recommend getting a a good reading on a bottom ported down firing sub?
between the sub and it's port. I would try it both down firing and turn it on it on it's side to have the sub firing into the room for the first measurement. I am not sure which will work better, but luckily this is a very quick and easy test.
I have a problem with Dayton dsp-lf. Can anyone with knowledge help?
I bought this product to use with my JL D110 subwoofer and I didn't have any problems.
I finished my hammer DIY subwoofer last week and started driving it with the Behringer EP4000. When I make a direct ep4000 connection from the AVR, my hammer works as it should.
But when I insert DSP-LF and run room calibration, a "click click" sound is heard from my hammer and it does not calibrate.
How can I use DSP-lf with ep4000?
A new subscriber here....with a question...
Can the subwoofer volume be adjusted using the app on an android phone ?
I too often need to make volume adjustments, as each song can have vastly differing bass levels.
Welcome! Glad to have you on board! The hope is that once you use the app and the device, that you don't have to do that. But the app itself really isn't designed to do that.
I just ordered 2 of these dsp my question is I have a pair of mini Marty 18s ..how do I go about dsp each of my subs .? …
Did you end up getting both dsp’s to work on the app?
@@JP-pc6to no they didnt work so i returned them .and bought a drive rack pa2...
I have a calibrated mic from dayton audio which has usb connection, can I use it with this device?
This just uses your phone microphone. No need for an external microphone
I think the app only works with a phone.
Just get a miniDSP 2x4 HD... done.
Would the auto tune work with a newer gen iPod touch? I'm an android user too lol
Anyone know if it’s possible to use a usb calibrated mic for the auto tune?
Not with this unit.
Hey man 😊
Couple of quick questions:
I have 2 subs, can I control 2 devices with the same app?
And....I do not want Iphone crap 🤣🤣🤣 so....if I borrow my GF's crapphone, does that mean I can not use my Android to control it?
Great content, as usual btw 😊
Are you sure receivers don't do the subwoofer?
Great question. Many receivers will test the subwoofer and change the delay, gain and other things, but they leave the response unchanged. Some high end receivers do this to a degree. They typically have something called Sub EQ. But often times a Home Theater receiver will not DSP the subwoofer at all. My Marantz I am using does have room correction, but as you can tell by the video, no sub eq.
@@Toid I'll have to check. If that is the case, I might just pick one up.
4:03 you lost me at idevice. Is there not some cheap external calibrated microphone that performs at least as good as an internal microphone on a mobile phone? You provided one example at the end. Their answer seems to ignore that option, or other options.
I do wish more companies would realize that 74% of smart phone users in the world are Android, and they should weigh that when releasing iOS only complete versions of their software.
I agree. In the wrap up, I said just that. That I wish they would have their cheap calibrated imm-6 mic work with it. As of right now Android works, it just won't auto-tune it. For auto-tune, you need Apple.
Yeah that's a bit of a cop out. The iPhone microphone can't cost more than $0.50 and every android phone from the last 10 years can use a usb microphone ver usb OTG.
@@TuiCatNZ the other issue is Dayton doesn't own the iwoofer software. It's a third party app. So they can't just add support for an external mic. Hopefully, that will change if this catches on.
The problem with those 74% of Android phones is they're mostly made up of cheap worthless phones. I moved to iPhone after close to 10 years with Android and love iPhone. I got tired of dealing with Android to put it simply. I had too many issues with them.
Don't get me wrong there's some good Android phones, but their company practices make me less interested in them. (I don't like things with Apple but so far my wants and needs are taken care of where Android fell very short)
@@JoshM7 26% of the Android market is still a _ton_ of premium phone options. Switching ecosystems should be about preference for that OS and ecosystem. We're not starved for high end Android phones these days.
Can I purchase one of these to tune all my subs individually. Or does the DSP have to remain on the individual subwoofer in order to keep it to specifications?
It has to stay connected to the sub thats how it actively makes the corrections.
How can i do away with humming sound
Whoever is humming, tell them to stop...😁
I know this is like 3 years old but how would I do four subs
Would you add this op top of a minidsp?
I really can't say, since I've never tested it in that type of configuration. I personally would just replace the subwoofer portion of the minidsp with this.
What about multiple subs?
So how does this work if you have 4 subwoofers in your theater system? Do I need 1 for each sub?
Great question. If they are all the same, it shouldn't make a difference. It'll do a system response for the listening area. If they are different, then you'd have different near-field responses so that would affect it depending on the DSP chosen.
Will this work with car audio? I have an 8v eclipse and jl audio amp I'd like to try it with.
Yes you can use it for car audio
Thanks!
@@standnbangnufc4681 did you use it in a car? How were the results ?
@@ajayahuja9 didnt work for me. added a lot of amp noise i couldnt get rid of. and the BT doesnt seem to connect anymore.
@@standnbangnufc4681 thanks. I did give this a slip and guess it was the right thing to do. Will continue with the joy of doing things myself 😀
So the $60 becomes closer to $100 by the time you are done. Still a good deal.
I smell sponsor.
i love sound but dislike most movies they just suck in hollyweird theses days but a few good old ones to watch .LOL Tucker and Dale VS Evil is a good modern movie
It's really tough for those android slaves that hasn't seen the light yet :)
Its definetly becomming better the last couple years, but if you use your phone or tablet for some kind of "pro" stuff, Apple just is the way to go, because there is way to many different hardware differences in android devices + they often run different and modded version of Android, that makes it a pain in the butt to guarantie that an app + hardware will run flawless on most devices. With Apple It's just way easier cause most of it runs on the same or 100% compatible hardware. And this isn't even a specific "pro" usage item. This is not a rant about Android vs Apple, just shows there is both pro's and cons of both closed and open standards eco systems.
What a waste of money, wouldn’t pair with either of my iPads and tech help was no help. I can send back for refund but already bought the app and the additional fittings so still out $18, plus a day of frustration. Steer clear!
When are these companies going to realize that Android has the major market share and start supporting Android apps and devices? I refuse to support a company that ignores Android users
Why not include a microphone. Make a kit for 80. It doesn't have to be an amazing microphone it just has to be calibrated to the app.
I agree. I think that would be a great implementation
@@Toid the home theater calibration mics can be had from 18-30 on average. Maybe someone should reach out and offer testing help of the shelf mics against their iphone app. I would gladly. I have a few iPhones, an ipad and a half dozen android models. All you would have to do is test a dozen times on apple then again on the android device get the averages for each and create an adjustment curve profile for the android app. Let the company know I will gladly beta test for a bunch of samsung models for them in return for a free module or two.
@@dominicdymond the issue is the app this product uses is not Dayton's app. The DSP uses a third party app. So the app developer would have to make those changes.
@@Toid unfortunate.
Nice video but at 75% of the population is on Android you need to offer a app and product with this in mind.
75% of the population needs to switch to Apple and the issue would easily be resolved!
@@marcusmcmurray77 Hmmm... pay $1500 to switch to an iPhone or pay $100 for a different DSP. Tough choice.
@@scotth6814 invest $1500 for the privilege of using iPhone or waste $100 on DSP
Awesome, until I found that I can't use my Android phone. Grrr.. 👴
I know. I had to wait weeks just to be able to find someone that I could borrow an old iPhone from. I still love my Android.
Awesome deal, but what pandemic? I turn the TV off and all goes away.
Haha! Great call. With us now living in the country, it's the same for us.
40 hz could not be from your room unless you have 8m ceilings. Most likely it is from passive radiator ie sub itself. Fixing fr doesn't mean you got rid of long decay of sub resonances
I dont get why people look for a flat response in LF. Your ears are super insensitive to LF so you loose so much impact LF information with a flat response below 100hz imo. They should give you a way to pick a house curve that it tunes to, that would be awesome.
Not sure I quite understand what your implying. This would make all of the frequency that the subwoofer handles flat to your room. That's a very good thing. If you're insensitive to low frequency, you can still turn the gain up, and that's still only going to affect your low frequencies. But by tuning it flat to your room, you no longer have huge variances in your low frequency, that you would typically have. That means from 20 Hertz to 100 Hertz you'll have a nice flat frequency response that you can adjust to whatever volume level you want.
@@Toid It is all just preference. I prefer a bit more sub bass and impact than a flat response provides. It would be cool if you could imput a desired house curve for the sub and for it to EQ to that.
You could use the method you described, but then you still dont have a rising curve to compensate for the lower sensitivity of your ears at LF. You are going to boost everything from the sub, so the 80hz region or wherever your xo region is will sound audibly louder than the lets say 45hz region even though they are equal volume on a FR graph; Instead of compensating by having a rising curve which will make the lower frequencies audibly the same volume as the higher ones. You also run into phasing issues with that method between your sub and mids since you are now boosting the point where the mids interact with the sub. Effectively raising the xo point of the sub without doing the same with the mids which is going to give you a dip at your xo point that cant be fixed with TA alone. You could compensate for this by leaving the mids xo alone but lowering the sub xo point to leave a "gap" in the crossover or the other way around. (I use quotes because you arent really leaving a gap, you are just tailoring the acoustic XO back to where you want it by lowering the electronic XO, to compensate for the higher DB level of the sub vs mids)
If instead you tuned the sub with a rising response in the LF tapering down to meet the mids at their volume properly level matched, they would still sum properly. And you have more impact, no dip at XO point or comb filtering, and equally as un-localized LF
If you have the means and processing power to give it a try, I would suggest it just for fun. Its a good exercise in acoustic theory and you way like the results =)
@@picassoimpaler3243 I got you. I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that you wanted all of your bass frequencies higher than everything else. You could still do that with this . But it wouldn't allow you to do the Auto-Tune. Instead you would need to manually EQ it.
i devices only, sorry, hard pass.
You don't get the speakers with it. This is click bait.
not working:(
What do you mean?
I bought this on the basis of this review, and I have to say I'm extremely dissappointed. It does not keep settings, and even if you save a preset it is impossible to get the app to load a preset.
Also, you cannot turn off the high pass and low pass filters, the high pass is especially annoying as the most you can get it out of the way is lowering it to 20hz, meaning it is still shaving off 3db at 20hz.
This product is an unfortunate case of so nearly there, but has some fundamental flaws that makes it complete garbage. Avoid it and buy a better product, like the minidsp 2x4.
It sounds like there is a problem with your unit. It is true about the high pass. However, this is typically the same type of high pass that is found on almost every home theater subwoofer plate amplifier already. Unless you are using a pro amplifier, the high pass shouldn't be an issue. Of course, not every product is for everyone. I also like the mini-dsp and think it's fantastic for those that really want to learn the ins and outs of DSP.
uses a phone microphone.... Nope... Ill pass...
The reason it can use these specific phone microphones is because Apple buys from the same supplier. Since this is the case, they can actually calibrate inside the program those particular microphones. it’s really no different than the calibration my phone you’d get with the surroundsound receiver.
@@Toid I'd like to see how far down it could measure
What about multiple subs?