Chainsaw Chains, what is the difference? Full chisel, Semi-chisel, Square filed, Round filed?
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Chainsaw Chains, what is the difference? Full chisel, Semi-chisel, Square filed, Round filed?
In this video I go over the basic differences in chainsaw chain cutter styles.
Let me know what you think in the comment section.
Take care, have a Good Day!
You can contact me at gooddayfarm.org@gmail.com
Chainsaw Chains, what is the difference? Full chisel, Semi-chisel, Square filed, Round filed?
I've used a chainsaw for over 50 years. I've used all the cutter types you mentioned. This video increased my knowledge of the different types of cutters & chains & advantages/disadvantages of each. I know way more than I did before! Thank You!
Wow! That’s great! I’m glad my sharing helped you. I feel like the more we share what we know with others, the more we can learn ourselves! I’m always learning new stuff.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, I really appreciate that!
So so glad you showed us examples. In videos, an image truly is worth a thousand words. Great Vid. Many thanks. : )))
Thanks, very informative and good for anyone cutting. I personally run Husqvarna 372xp with full chisel, full skip on a 24" bar cutting mainly cedar.
Thank you! Thanks for watching and got the comment.
Happy cutting!
Excellent explanation of different nomenclature of chainsaw chains. Out here in West Texas where the mesquite is thick and hard as nails, I am going to have to find me a Square filed chain for my Stihl and see how well it performs for me on the ranch! Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Oh, yeah.... that would be a good test for square fixed chain.. 👍
If you're short on time, 1.5 speed works great for this vid. Great info.
One way to manage my yacking... lol!
Yeah man a little too much talking ..
I just try to be thorough. 🤷♂️
@@GoodDayFarm yeah but answer then explanation... Not the other way around... I didn't even hang around... Left to another video...
Type a : advantage, disadvantage, ideal for.. not ideal for...
Type b : advantage, disadvantage, ideal for.. not ideal for...
In depth explanation for those wanna hang around.
Meh, my videos aren’t for everyone I guess, but some people do enjoy them.
Thank you for taking time to share your time and experience
Thank you watching and commenting!
Yeah, I've been bucking for lots of my life. Can't imagine using any thing less than a Full Chizel chain.
Now that I’ve used square grind, I can’t either!
I found your video on chain cutters very informative. It helps me when I understand how my equipment works and what my options are! Thanks!
Thanks! I’m glad you found it useful.
Thanks for watching!
Michael, Once you figure out the gauge and pitch, which will be stamped in the bar, you should be able find any brand chain that’ll work.
hi my name is Scott i live in Australia, the wood here is really hard,so i appriate the things you said about full and semi chisel, will watch more of your vid s cheers
Thanks! I hope the information is useful. Thanks for watching. Take care!
The semi skip chain has more drag which is more for the motor so it’s slower
But the full skip is less drag and easier for the motor so it’s gonna cut fast
That’s just my experience
Also the semi chisel chain is also a more of a home owner chain because it’s less prone to kick back because it’s not as egressive
And that’s why when you look at the square ground the angle of the top plate is about 15 degrees because it’s so egressive that if you have over 15 degrees it’s gonna kick back and I found that out the hard way lucky I wasn’t hurt
But great video over all 👍
Thanks for watching! Thank for sharing your experience, it’s always nice to hear about others knowledge... sharing is how we learn! Thanks.
Great video! I would also argue that if you ran full-skip or semi-skip, you could run a larger sprocket on the same saw and possibly cut faster than full comp. Just food for thought...
Thanks!
You probably could, and you definitely could file it faster! 😏
Thanks for the comment!
Take care and have a Good Day!
I would have to agree with you on all points of the comp discussion only I was of the opinion that the difference was for old school saws that used torque vs newer saws that run rpm. I have some old Macs here that have a really aggressive cut and fewer cutters to sharpen. Torque pulls it through the cut with big chips and less drag on fewer cutters IMO. Thanks, greta vid.
That’s a valid point, I have had some Macs, and they definitely have torque!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. 👍
I have been heating my house with wood for the past 18 years and cut at least 8 cords every year and have ran both full comp, half skip, and full skip chains. I lean towards smaller power heads in the 40cc range for most of my bucking and have found that the half or full skip chain cuts tremendously faster for me. I will lower the raker a little bit more than factory but only by maybe ten thousandths and have found by keeping the chain speed up, the saws cut better and the chains won't dull as fast as the full comps I used to run. I am in the Southeast and only burn hardwoods so they tend to be rough on saws.
Keep the chain speed up is key!
I burn hardwood in Ky with my 60cc 4hp echo CS590, which chain would you suggest be best for my needs? I’ve been using a 20” full-chisel Oregon chain
Sounds like you already run a good chain. 👍
@Denton Dunn I run a full skip chain, just be careful with it, especially with a decently strong power head like yours, it will want to kick back on you if the tip contacts pretty much anything
@@southronjr1570 I'll keep that in mind, and thanks for your reply. I've never ran one but if they're a better chain for cutting hardwood I'll try one out
This is an eye opener for me, great vid time isn't on issue for me. To tell truth after watching this I went to my still dealer ere in Jamaica and they don't even know about square / round ground types of chianti I was like seems I have to start shopping online then because I cut alot of wood it would be nice to have a chain on my saw that cut faster and keeps sharp for a long time with these round grounds I can run 4 tanks then sharpened up my chain but only if I don't it foreign objects but all and all good vid yow
Thank you! And good luck! 👍
You are definitely correct: a square ground semi chisel would be "point"less!
😂😂😂
Myself I use a Full chisel chain for felling, semi chisel for bucking, point being full chisel is best for off the ground stuff, semi chisel is good for ground work!
That’s definitely a good combo!
Running a brand new chain is like putting on a fresh pair of pants hot out of the dryer......
Indeed!
I disagree, even Stihl chain straight out of the box benefits a lot from a touch up
I disagree also. your chain should cut like it did new after every sharpening if not then your not sharpening it right.
very interesting information, very helpful and useful video, thanks
Thank you!
Take care!
Really good video. Very informative. Any suggestions on the best chain for my Poulan 42cc 14" bar, 5/32" ?
Thanks for the question.
I’d say a semi chisel should be fine, but maybe try a pico chain too, it you can find one
Thanks for watching!
Great video best explanation I've heard and I tell you I've heard a lot.👍
Thank you! I really appreciate the feedback!
👍
I'm using a Stihl MS251C. Do you think a square grind is eating too much wood for a 46cc engine? I've thought of trying a square grind and then seeing if I can sharpen it myself.
Hard to say for sure…. I’d try it for yourself and see.
You might have a hard time finger a chain though, just depends what size you run.
Great informative vid!Much appreciated with super explanations!
Thank you!
awesome video ty
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you.
Thanks!
I appreciate the comment.
Thanks for watching, take care!
hello sir.i hope you can help me with my chainsaw chain,i want to change it i already brought my whole chainsaw to the store that sell chainsaws and parts but they couldn't find any available chain for my chainsaw.i got the old 1971 tas tanaka ecs-5 chainsaw. thanks
Sorry, I’m not familiar with that saw, I don’t know what chain that saw uses.
what is a 3/8 pico chain and is it common
Pico chain is just a low profile cutter, and I think a lie kickback chain.
Supposed to be less friction, easier fir smaller saws.
As for how common, I’m not sure, but definitely available.
Nice video. Thanks for doing this.
Thank you!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Take care.
Good video. How can you tell a regular chain from a ripping chain? Some say it doesn't matter which chain you use for ripping. What are your thoughts on this?
When you say ripping, do you mean milling? If so, I have never milled, but my understanding is the cutter angle on a milling chain is 10-15 degrees... so it would be very noticeably different.
@@GoodDayFarm I use an old chain sharpened to 10 degrees for rip cuts.
Can you sharpen full chiseled, round file with a electric sharpener like the one Harbor Freight sells? It only has a flat disk that does the grinding. Thanks
I don’t know their grinder, but I’m sure you can. You have to shape the wheel to the profile you want for sharpening.
@@GoodDayFarm great video btw!
Thanks!
Hey man don't have time to watch the whole video right now, but just wanted to say hi. I hope everything's working out with that hole finances and job thing. GET WOOD BROTHER!!!
Thanks! No worries, I can’t always watch people’s videos either...
Things are going on, working part time, still looking for a full time job.
Thanks for the support!
Take care!
I’m a contract climber I don’t ever really see that much huge diameters at the base like I was on today here in Connecticut
Any saw in big hardwood is going to be slow and steady.
Lol how's it rockin Joe 👍
Thanks for your help. I bought a 20" low cost made-in-China chainsaw on eBay. The chain that comes with the saw wore quickly. What kind of chain do you recommend that will stay sharp? The bag said 20"-76. It appears that I can choose 1/4", .325, 3/8 and .4.4" pitch plus .05, .058 and .063" gauge. My purpose is to cut tree branches to smaller pieces so that I can throw them away.
I like Stihl brand. Something in a full chisel. The bar should tell you what pitch and gauge.
So is there any reason why I couldn't use a stihl chain on a husky?
No, just make sure the gauge and pitch are correct.
@@GoodDayFarm thanks. You're awesome. Definitely getting likes and subscribe by me. Just a few other questions if you don't mind, the gauge is the thickness of the lower part of the link that scoops up oil in the bar groove, correct? And that's also stamped in the bar correct? And the pitch is I believe counting 3 rivets and dividing by 2, correct? Makes me wonder why they call it pitch when it's just a measurement of the links?
Thanks!
Yes, correct on both questions.
That is how you Measure the pitch, but I think it has more to do with how tight of a radius The chain can make around the sprocket and the nose of the bar.
Thanks for the questions!
@@GoodDayFarm makes sense. Thanks again
One more thing... count the drive links when using a different brand, 20” and under seem to have the biggest issue with different brands.
If your still around sir i have a stihl ms180c 16" bar and chain dont cut firewood anymore but i am searching for the best chain fer my saw been debating on going to 3/8 50 gauge from my 3/8 43 gauge stock chain and i like a chain to cut fast cause when i use it now its probly gonna be a tree across a road or trail that im on or maybe a tree fer my mom what would be your reccomendation fer me thank you in advance sir
Hey there, I’m still around... 👍
I’m not real familiar with that saw, but it seems like a pico or micro chain would be faster.
Either way, I would make sure it is a full chisel chain. That’s RS in Stihl brand.
Thanks for the question, I hope my answer helps, thanks for watching.
which type is typically used in a ripping chain?
Great question, thanks.
I don’t have much experience in ripping, assuming you mean for milling. But, I would imagine a full chisel skip tooth would be good, if you don’t go with a specific ripping chain.
How bout dressing or grinding your bar yourself. Bought the oregon bar dresser to keep it true or level. Would love to see your opinion on it. Or do you just take it in.
Great suggestion! I did a video on that.... ua-cam.com/video/Uvi6C8VYSqQ/v-deo.html
I hope that covers what you’re asking about.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome I will take a look at it today. New to the channel. Great video on the chains without a doubt be watching more of your stuff
Thanks!
Unfortunately I don’t do chainsaw type videos anymore, but there are lots in my library to go through!! 👍
I think, use what work's the best for you
Valid point, I agree 100%!
can you round grind a straight grind? i have a oregon 35cm 3/8 1.1mm and it's a full chiesel, straight ground. would be a a good ideea?
my thinking is that i can see many more manual round files, with or without guides
Yep, you sure can. First time might take a little longer since you’ll have to remove enough material to get the hook in there, and remove the gullet.
Great question, thanks!
uuukey... then i will give it a try when needed. tnx for the answer
No problem, any time! 👍
How tight should the chain be? The chain of my new chainsaw keeps coming off. Thanks
Depends on the length, but typically it should not have any sag but you should be able to pull it away from the bar, no more than an inch, and it should snap back in place when you let go.
@@GoodDayFarm Anything I do wrong that caused the chain to come off?
Hard to say. It could be to loose. Or the bar itself could be worn. Or could be the wrong pitch chain.
Operator technique could do it to... I’d need to see the saw, and see you run it to say for sure.
A bad or broken tensioner could be the problem too.
Thank you great video. I was given an Echo sc6700. Having trouble finding the correct chain. The old chain has 72 on it and 30?
I would need to see the chain. The bar should have some markings on it to tell you what chain it takes.
From what I can see, it should be a 3/8 pitch chain, the 72 probably refers to the drive link count... 20” bar.
Hope that helps.
Thank you figured out the problem it's a 16 inch bar with 60 teeth. Apparently the person that had the sore before me took 12 links / 72 links. that's why I was so confused and couldn't find a chain to fit. Thank you
Oh wow! Yeah, that would be confusing. I’m glad you got it sorted out!
Hi, some of the old chain had depth gauge setting stamped on side. 0.025" --- 25, 0.030" --- 30. Believe 72 was an Oregon 3/8" 0.050" gauge. 73 0.058", 75 0.063". Super 70 chisel.
Semi chisel, told holds edge better if cutting trees bordering a water course. Grains of sand drawn up through roots. Carried high up trunk.
Stihl chainsaw files are/were made by SARP ( a Swiss company). Same item, cheaper price on eBay.
Hope info of interest / use.
Great info! Thanks!
new sub to your channel great info thanks thumbs up
Thanks!
Welcome to the community!
So I run a full skip square ground 3/8 chain 84dL on my MS462C and use it for ripping would this be appropriate? I feel it works a lot better compared to round ground full chisel full Comp I’m also cutting iron bark in Australia cheers
I’ve never milled, so I can’t say for sure.
I do know that square files seems to handle any task you throw at it.
Have you tried a ripping chain for comparison?
I’d be curious to see how it compares.
But yeah, I think it would be a better choice for that task over a round ground full comp.
When you say ripping chain as such what do you mean like a granberg rip chain or different?
Exactly, I think Oregon makes one also, or you can just file a round chain at 10-15 degrees, it’ll be similar.
Hey appreciate the replies mate cheers 👍🏼
Good video and interesting 👍🏻
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
This is alot like end mills. A radius tool will last alot longer than one with square corners
Very true, just not as sharp.
Thanks
Thanks for watching! 👍
Great video! I disagree with you on the full comp vs a full skip, I think a full skip pulls more wood per revolution. You don't usually see full skip for small saws! Again liked your video
New subscriber 👍
Awesome! Welcome to the community!
Too much talking at the beginning of video.. also, a small tipped pointer would be better for pointing out features on the chain... overall, a nice video...
Thanks for watching and the comment. 👍😎
Skip chain Is alot faster not slower than a full
Hey GDF, I'd like to suggest that you rest your hand on something when showing the angles of an individual tooth, and in my opinion, if your intention is to teach, with all the names to describe teeth, chisel, full, semi, square, semi this and semi that, and half this and full that, I find it confusing, and was not able to fully understand what you are teaching, to the point that I could teach it, because I was not able to connect the shape to your words, so in my opinion I think it would be an excellent idea to have a white board with drawings of everything, so this way you could point to what you are speaking of, to make everything clear and easy to understand. I did learn some things though, and that was good, thanks, but I want it all.
Thanks! Great suggestions. I’ve always want some sort of props fir the different cutter styles... but I don’t know where to get something that would work.
Thanks again for the comments, I appreciate the feedback.
Breif? Haha
You should have seen it before I edited it…. Lol!! 😂
Thanks for watching. 😎
Love the redundant intro.
Another pixel 4 ad.... won’t buy...
Unfortunately I can’t control the ads...
Apologies... directed at them only. Liked your video. no more pixel ads 🤣
Copy that 👍😎
Full skip requires less horsepower and allows for higher rpm.
It was designed by Husqvarna to allow their saws to run the longer bars which were previously only run on Stihl saws...
All right, all right, just joking here folks. You don’t need to send me hateful comments!
Full skip allows for higher rpm which is beneficial for most modern saws when running longer bars.
The torque curve of modern saws is much higher than the old muscle saws of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s. Of course older saws can benefit as well.
And yes, even a Stihl well benefit from them!
Great job Travis.
Be Kind, Be Blessed!
Saw Surgeon
Whatever buddy. My.Super XL top handle Homelite with a 48 inch bar and full comp chain will cut circles your Stihl!!! Oh yeah, and the rakers are all completely removed on my chain. Hehehe! Couldn't resist!!!! 😝😝😝
Yeah, kind of what I said, you just said it better! Lol! Thanks Tedd! 👍
Thanks for watching, have a Good Day!
Joe the roofer, haha! 😂😂😂
Jon the Roofer :: Homelite? That’s cheating... A Homelite would win even if you were running dog chain on it!
Send me some pics of that 48” Top Handle!
Good Day Farm :: Hey Travis, you did an excellent job of explaining it. I just figured I had better confirm that I understood you, especially after the smart-alec remark I made!
Blessings!
As a woodturner, I cut logs into turning blanks - not so much for burning. we as a group, are very aware of the direction of the grain. To crosscut a log you're cutting across the fibers of the log when you rip a log down the center your cut is along the fibers of the wood. Especially if the wood is wet/green, that cut down the center can create a real challenge for a chain with tightly spaced cutters. Skip tooth chains handle that cut better because they allow the wood to clear much better and don't clog up the kerf/chain.
Good point, thanks for sharing. 👍
Ha you make me laugh the last 3 videos I watched you start by saying this is going to be a quick video! Over ten mins is no quick vidoe.. keep them coming, I appreciate info.
Haha! You should see how long they are before I edit! lol!
I really try to keep the videos around 10 minutes, but it doesn’t always work out.
Thanks for watching! Have a Good Day!
very informative
Thank you! Thanks for watching, take care!
Perfect timing to have found your video. I just bought an Oregon 410-120 and have been perplexed with the terminology needed to find out the down angle of my Stihl 18 inch chain 26RS68 which I use on my Stihl MS 250. I called Stihl Customer service to get help understanding the terminology, but she brushed me off because I was not using a Stihl grinder. I then called Oregon and was on hold for 15 minutes and was then redirected to a voice mail. I left a message and have not heard word one in the past two hours. So much for customer "service."
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Oh good, I hope the video was helpful, bummer about the costumer service...
I do have have a video on the Oregon 620 grinder, the settings should be the same for the 420, if you haven’t watched it, maybe take a look.
Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
What do you think the best brand of chain that last the longest on red oak
Good question.
In my experience, Stihl RS chains hold their edge the best.
Of course there are a lot of variables, but overall I think Stihl is a better chain.
Used a round file until now. Thinking of buying an Oregon electric chain sharpener, but never considered, do they only square file chains??? I can't imagine they can cut crescents.
99.9% of grinders do round file. The wheel is U shaped.
Very few square grinders out there.
I can highly recommend the Oregon grinder, good value.
I would subscribe if you didn’t yabba on for 4 mins saying absolutely nothing related to the title, 2 minutes after saying let’s get right into it. 4 mins of my life I won’t get back ... Haha ... Awesome information though ... Cheers.
No worries, I like to talk, what can I say? 🤷♂️
I liked the video, thankyou, How about a video on ripping chainsaw chains for those of us with Alaskan Saw Mills, maybe show us some options and what works best ! Thanks again, and look forward to your next video
Thanks! I am glad you enjoyed the video.
I don’t have a milk, maybe someday, but for now I really don’t know much about ripping chains.
How do you call the type of chain with twice as many cutting teeth as "full comp" ? The baby Milwaukee M12 "hatchet" 'chainsaw' has that type of chain, and another YTer described it as smooth - I would imagine it'd take smaller chips for each tooth..
I’m not familiar with that type of chain…. Sounds like a “full house” chain…. But I wasn’t aware of them making those anymore.
What is the smallest cc motorhead you would use with a skip tooth chain? Thank you for your time.
I’ve ran them on 57cc saws, as long as it was sharp I had no issues. The all I can tell you, I’ve never had a smaller cc saw.
Personally, I think bar size is what limits you on smaller cc saws. You go to long and the saw will suffer.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Thank you for your time making the video. I’m a new subscriber trying to better my skill with a chainsaw.
Welcome to the community! If you have any questions, ask away.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I hope you find some useful information on the channel.
Take care!
Short, quick video.... 20 minutes later...
Yeah... I tend to ramble... 🤷♂️
At least you had time to comment.
As did you…. Thanks! 👍😎
@@GoodDayFarm yeah, nice informative video.
Is a full chisel chain ok to use on a 251 sthilsaw ? Thanks in advance Gunter
I never have, but if you can find one that fits, I’d give it a try. As long as it is sharp, it should cut fine!
I seen on the Stihl chains on the part that runs in the bar the teeth has dots , what they all about ?
I think that has something to do with how the chain pulls oil from the bar.
Great question though... something to research.
@@GoodDayFarm I was thinking the same , I was never under the impression that regular sprockets (drive links ) had no issue keeping the oil on the track .
Very clear and informative TY
Thank you!
Question? What about the hexa chain from sthil?
Great question! Unfortunately, I know nothing about it…. Sorry.
I like the yellow and skips for punch cuts. Beware of kick back though.
Solid advice! 👍
Thanks for a very informative video.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment and kind words! Thanks for watching! Take care!
Do you have a video out about rip chains?
If you mean chains for milling, then no, I never have used one.
Thanks, I'm going to be using my Huskvarna 24" 460 to cut a lot left over brush/stumps some 2 to 3 inch's in diameter some smaller and some much larger. I'll be cutting them close to the ground and they will be somewhat dirty. So, I'm going to give a semi chisel a whirl. The 24" is unwieldy enough on its own, a more docile chain is probably best in this situation as well.I've been running round full chisel since I purchased it ,5 years ago.
Sounds like a plan! Let me know how it goes.
Thanks for the heads up, I want to run full chisel ,square ground, full comp on my Stihl 290 and I want to run it on my 661.....where do I buy the chains ,and files? Btw I'd really like to get the triangle files and the double bevel files as well as some older style Carlton raker gauges too
I always had my Stihl dealer order the chains, and I got the files online. I use double bevel flat files.
@@GoodDayFarm thanks you very much
You’re very welcome!
Funny reason but I run a full skip on anything over 24 inch bar so i dont have to sharpen as much.
Yeah, a lot of people do that. 👍
@@GoodDayFarm glad to see you are still around. I know you weren't getting into some of specialty chains, but the Husqvarna carving chain is quite unique with no link straps and a cutter for every driver. Weird. It's on their website.
Sounds like an old school “ full house” chain. 👍
My buddy makes 20 inch loops of full skip, he says he does it so he only has to file half as many teeth lol, I got a full skip square ground for my 28 inch bar on my ms460, it works great I've got quite a few tanks on it and it is still cutting great, good thing cause I don't know how to file it haha
Full skip on a 20”? Lol! He should file a 114 driver full comp! 😏
Send me your square chain, I’ll take care of it for you, 👍😎
Thanks for watching friend, I really appreciate it!
Take care! Have a Good Day!
Trues story: Once fell down a hill while holding a chainsaw. No idea what the chain looked like. Thanking my lucky stars for the dead-man switch.
Dude.... that actually happens to professionals, and some of the injuries are nasty!
You’re very lucky!
Well explained.
Thank you!
I Think of it like a boat prop. A 3 blade prop gives a boat torque in the low end. A 4 blade prop gives you more in the top end. So... if you in big wood and it’s lowering your rpms on your saw you would be more efficient with a full skip chain. I think crazy 😜 sometimes just my theory
That’s a good way at looking at it. 👍
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
Take care!
Actually it's just the opposite. A 2-3 blade prop is for RPM and speed, while 4+ blade props are for power (torque).
IBCNU right
Thank you for the info! I don't cut a lot of wood but when I do it is usually dirty, so I'm going to try a semi-chisel/round file. I hope this will work well for cutting stumps at ground level also.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment.
If you’re doing a lot of dirty wood, and stumps, I might try a carbide chain. More expensive, and can’t really be sharpened by hand, and cut slower, but…. They do very well in dirty situations…. As long as you don’t break a tooth off.
@@GoodDayFarm Thanks for the info!!
You’re very welcome.
Relay good
Thanks!
Great video easy to understand and now i now what it meens thanks.
Thanks! I’m glad the video was helpful.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Done sub...because i use chainsaw to...i don't know about other chain..and how it's work with wood
Thanks!
I think a full skip has 2/3 rds the amount of teeth as a full comp, I have to go count, but I'm rather sure it isn't half.
Oh…. I thought every other tooth was missing on full skip…. , as in that’s how the spacing is done, still has an equal amount of left and right cutters. There is a half skip, that is probably 2/3 the teeth. 🤷♂️
@@GoodDayFarm I just counted: cull comp: cutter, tie strap, cutter, tie strap, cutter, tie strap. . . Full skip: C, TS, TS , C, TS, TS. so for every three cutting teeth (Full comp), there are two cutting teeth (full skip), so full skip has 2/3 of the teeth as full comp, not 1/2. thanks for responding, and thanks for the video, you picked up a new subscriber.
Excellent! That’s for taking the effort to verify that! I learned something today!
Take care!
@@GoodDayFarm as did I, thanks.
Constructive comment: If you are gonna talk about differences between saw chains for wood; in my mind it would make sense to first deliniate ripping or crosscut chain, then go into various differences related to the rakers & chippers.
Thanks! That’s a good point, I didn’t really think about that.
To me, when you talk about ripping, your milling... I know some specific chains for milking have a totally different compliment to them, the cutters are the same, just filed to a different angle than crosscut.
Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.
👍
So I just bought a full skip as an end around I hope for cutting up butts and first 30ft of what I fell for firewood. I'm in eastern Oregon and cut tamarack(western larch)almost exclusively and cutting 24 inch trees and running a 290 and 291. You think that full skip will help me keep rpm and power for those end cuts until I can afford a 440 or bigger?
Great question!
What bar size?
I definitely think a full chisel, full skip will help.
Good informations I give 5 stars...
Thank you!
Thanks bro really helpful that was exactly what I wanted to know without any irrelevant information.
I would argee with you that the less teeth the less the chainsaw has to work especially because there are the same amount of drivers on the under side of the chain
I’m glad you found the video useful. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
Great video. Just subscribed. One question. What stihl chain do you recommend for milking planks. Oregon has what they call a ripping chain. What is comparable for stihl? Thanks
I am not aware of a milling chain made by Stihl. You could modify any full chisel chain though...
Thanks bro really helpful that was exactly what I wanted to know without any irrelevant information.
I would argee with you that the less teeth the less the chainsaw has to work especially because there are the same amount of drivers on the under side of the chain
Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful.
I run Stihl RM on my 034 and 051, running PS on my 024 WB and my 015 AV. My old Homelites and my Poulan 306A are running Oregon Power Cut.
Hi my uncle passed away a few months ago he has two Ms 311 stihl chainsaws and a 028 stihl saw as well I actually just sold his 036 pro for 500 bucks it had this absolutely massive bar on it like 32 inch what other chainsaws can I get a big bar on (what saw can handle a bar that big that doesn't cost an arm and a leg) I'm new to chainsaws
Hi, great question!
That 036 would have been a keeper! Great saws!
As far as what other saws will run a big bar.... I really only know Stihl saws, butvtgat bein said, none of them would be considered cheap.
A lot depends on what you’ll be using it for and exactly how big a bar you want.
I would say stay in a 70 cc saw or bigger, so something like a Stihl 461 or 661.
Really need a little more info before making a recommendation.
Thanks for watching! I look forward to hearing more from you.
whats a big power head to u 80cc ?
Yeah, 80cc’s would be big for sure. To me, anything over 55cc’s is getting close to big.. 😎👍
@@GoodDayFarm I have a 60 so would that be big enough
I guess it depends what you’re trying to do with it. It would be big enough for anything I needed to... 👍
which chain is goes to soft wood and forest tree cutting because when I start resharpining the chain like a L shape its gets dull on me after few cuts and I get confused. My chainsaw is MS251 18" .325 Stihl , anybody know
What chain? What file?
I use 4/16 file for stihl chainsaw chain, my friend says a round tooth chain can be use for soft wood and square shape chain used for forest trees cutting like pine because soft wood chain gets dull with few cuts. All my chains are 18" 68DL 26rs68 and been using them for cutting. Any advice? semi chisel or full chisel used for forest trees known as Pine.
I prefer full chisel for everything. It should go through everything just fine. It will dull quicker, especially in dirty wood.
Any chance the wood has dirt or sand in the bark?
It’s also possible you’re getting your angle off when you’re sharpening it. 🤷♂️
Also, maybe try a 5/32 file.
@@GoodDayFarm yeah, my angle was off when I sharpen the chain, Do you any sharpener will work to angle the tooth, I was using the old school way of sharpen and now I have to try different sharpen a 4-in-1 tool. By any chance, have you try semi chisel chain?
Stihl has a chain they call Picco chain. Is that there version of a chipper chain? Also, I've seen chain referred to as being low profile chain. What does that mean?
I’m not super familiar with the PUCCI or lopro chains, but my understanding is they are basically the same.
It is just a shorter cutter tooth, do it makes a smaller chip.
I believe it is a way to maintain a 3/8 pitch chain but use the power like a 1/4 pitch. So ideal for smaller saws.
I have no idea what style of cutters either is offered in.
I hope that answers your question.
Hello from Alaska, been cutting for many years, always learn something new, thanks for the Video.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment! Take care!
How much does it cost to sharpen a chain? Is it worthwhile to do so, or should I just throw away a dull chain?
Depends on the shop, but anywhere from $5-$8. It is worthwhile, you’ll get several sharpening from a chain. It’s best if you can do it yourself, you’ll get even more life from it. 👍😎
Thanks for the info. If you haven't already, please make a video on chainsaw sharpening.
Thanks!
I have made one. Check out my playlists!
Thanks for watching!
G'Day Mate, great vid, I have watched a heap of videos trying to determine the difference and what chain I should run on my MS381 and my MS180, you explained it perfectly for me, I'm just a backyard warrior hitting firewood for myself in Australia. Cheers for your time Mate, got yourself a new Sub
Thanks for watching! And thank you for the kind words!
I’m happy you found the video helpful!
Take care!