from where im sitting; why not use two of these plates so to clamp the paper in between like a giant paper clamp, that way you can strech any format paper you want without dammaging your board with cutting or use a glass plate; wich will have a natural suction effect.
The reason why it buckles is because you’re only wetting one side of it when you’re painting and not the other. When you wet the back side of it, it evens it out more.
Also, if you use heavier paper, it should hardly buckle at all. The heavier, the less buckling. The bigger the work, the more buckle-especially if you’re using thinner paper.
Stretching w/c paper is forever a problem. The tape does not work with all types of paper, and can't hold larger sheets tight. Soaking does not work either, because different papers are surface-sized differently. Several minutes of soaking in a tub can activate then remove a lot of surface sizing, making expensive w/c papers behave like a cheap blotting rag. I tried several home-made solutions, then gave up. Then I found Keba Art Mate paper strechers, which are fuss-free, and allow even very thin papers to stretch tight as drum. After drying, the painting is perfectly flat.
1. Did you ever try your idea of cutting groves for different size papers on the same board? How did it work out? 2. After you used the board for awhile, did you think it needed to made water proof by sealing the wood?
Good idea, but no I haven't tried different groves. If you do please let me know how it works. I haven't needed to seal the board yet, but I don't use watercolor all the time.
Tip: Seal the word with acrylic Gac 100 from Golden acrylics. That will make the wood water proof.
Nice Idea , thank you. Good starting point for some Imaginative innovations.
from where im sitting; why not use two of these plates so to clamp the paper in between like a giant paper clamp, that way you can strech any format paper you want without dammaging your board with cutting or use a glass plate; wich will have a natural suction effect.
I just wet both sides of my paper. It hardly moves at all. No work required.
You could also just literally iron the back of your paper when you’re done!
The reason why it buckles is because you’re only wetting one side of it when you’re painting and not the other. When you wet the back side of it, it evens it out more.
Also, if you use heavier paper, it should hardly buckle at all. The heavier, the less buckling. The bigger the work, the more buckle-especially if you’re using thinner paper.
Stretching w/c paper is forever a problem. The tape does not work with all types of paper, and can't hold larger sheets tight. Soaking does not work either, because different papers are surface-sized differently. Several minutes of soaking in a tub can activate then remove a lot of surface sizing, making expensive w/c papers behave like a cheap blotting rag. I tried several home-made solutions, then gave up. Then I found Keba Art Mate paper strechers, which are fuss-free, and allow even very thin papers to stretch tight as drum. After drying, the painting is perfectly flat.
I don't really see the simplicity of this method as compared to, for example, using tape.
Just what I was thinking...
1. Did you ever try your idea of cutting groves for different size papers on the same board? How did it work out?
2. After you used the board for awhile, did you think it needed to made water proof by sealing the wood?
Good idea, but no I haven't tried different groves. If you do please let me know how it works.
I haven't needed to seal the board yet, but I don't use watercolor all the time.
Hi! This just regular plywood or does it have to be made waterproof? Thanks for your reply!
Allison Bender I used regular plywood.
Good idea but atrocious video