I think it's awesome! Always have. Firearms are so important to this country and the anti gun people either don't understand or they just want control. It's usually both.
I highly recommend "gun disassembly" app/game. Has 100's and 100's of different kinds of guns that you can take apart, put back together, shoot and even watch in 3d and x-ray views to see exactly how they work. Love gun mechanics... and that's one of the best things ever.
@@ericsfishingadventures4433 Yeah, we all NEED to know exactly how guns work... and how how to make them... but especially, we need to have the tools and materials needed to make them ourselves. The supreme court ruled that we do not need a permit to carry/own/buy or build a gun and that it is a RIGHT, also to carry a handgun and to catty a handgun concealed (not that we need their permission)... but cowards are even STILL begging their masters to exercise what they call a "Right". In the end though, there is Nothing they can do to stop people from making their own guns... and also, in another ruling (even more recently), they ruled that laws that make unserialized gun illegal are unconstitutional and that guns do Not need serial numbers, even those with "obliterated serial numbers" are legal to possess and a person cannot be charged for simply having/carrying one. The Constitution already made all gun laws unconstitutional/illegal from the start... but they just backed it up. Still though, that don't stop the greatest cowards of all (FFL's) from enforcing unjust gun "laws" on everyone else. FFL's are not only cowards for obeying each and every unjust "law", but they are the Enforcement arm of the ATF. No gun "laws" would be possible without them. Period. To obey an unjust "law" is to enforce an unjust "law" is to create an unjust "law" is to deserve an unjust "law". I just pray we stop being so deserving of tyranny, because it is the only way we will ever stop receiving it. A nation of cowards can never be Free... and there is NOTHING they can do about it. The only laws that exist in this nation are the laws we Allow to exist... and to obey them is to deserve them.
We built a stamping press similar to that, but for prepreg carbon fiber. The two mold halves are heated and we are able to lay in the carbon fiber, stamp it and hold the pressure for 10 minutes, then the fully cured part pops out of the mold. We usually spend 6 to 8 hours in the autoclave to cure the same prepreg carbon.
Hey Mark, for future reference, a light weight oil is plenty for the pressing you are doing, and for removing your parts off the die, small spring load plunger pins will pop it right off. Large diameter and no heavy spring pressure so as to not damage the steel while pressing. Will be excited to see more! I do this for a living and am always excited when people decide to take this up. Its a trade that isnt common but is very versatile and also fairly efficient with less wasted material. Plus you can forge parts and shapes with dies as well.
Idk much about stamping steel but I've seen some cases of plastic mold tools using compressed air to blow the part off. Might work with steel too if it's not too tightly on. I like the plungers too tho!
Houghton 7079p oil is great for stamping oil. You can make it whatever ratio you want with water as it emulsifies with the water. For small operation like this you can use a spray bottle. You're right about Mark should put some lift pins on bottom and top so the part blank won't stick to the die.
I was wondering if all of that very thick oil had an affect on the impression details. The two “ribs” the charge handle will ride on. The depth didn’t look consistent, Mark noted it. Possibility the thick oil prevented the best detail. If that lube gets trapped so it can’t move out of the way, won’t it prevent the die from forming fine details correctly?
Any recommendations for reading about die design? I've had a hard time finding good information on it. Seems like a lot of the concepts are a trade secret of sorts
Personally I think that's a beautiful rifle! I almost wouldn't even want to cerakote it just because of how pretty it is! We need more people like you in the metalworking industry because you clearly understand the importance of the 2nd amendment! I learn something every time I watch!
He should do a limited edition line with a blued or case hardened steel upper, wood furniture (with a fixed stock and matching FAL-esque handguard), complete with a bayonet.
Looks hreat... and the stamping is a fine detail that really increases the "intelligence" of the design. It's not easy to make a gun functional, good looking and less expensive all at the same time... and it takes a lot more time and experience and intellect to make a gun like this. Some of the most successful guns were the one's that were made to be stamped, because simply stamping the frame could significantly reduce the cost of the gun... (but it could also significantly reduce the quality and the durability of the gun)... so to make a gun stamped, but still have it be a good, reliable, durable gun is not so easy. I know the P320 and Taurus G4X aren't rifles or anything, but I really like their FCU's, because they're simple and stamped. So are some others like Beretta has the Nano, Pico and APX... and there are more, but I'm having a tough time trying to remember (because the vast majority are cast/MIM steel with a couple being aluminum). All the P365, P3AT, P380, SCCY CPX 1-2-3, Taurus Spectrum, Taurus Curve, Ruger LCP, LCPII, SW Bodyguard and the vast majority of .380 and 9mm are all cast/MIM chassis guns (if they're not all polymer framed like Glocks). I actually wonder if the Taurus Spectrum and some of the other really cheap one's would be even cheaper if they all had a stamped Chassis.
@@Rippers-TV I didn't even know there was a clear anodizing. But when I think about it the process is all essentially the same. So yeah instead of having to clean and polish it constantly that would be an amazing option!
Mark you probably know this, but in case you don't: Regular production stamping presses use what are called 'die strippers' in the dies or molds. In the simplest case these are just some spring plungers that are strong enough to force the part off the die. Variations are mechanical plungers that only poke out in the last half inch or so of press movement when it is opening, or pneumatically or hydraulically actuated stripper pins.
I think it’ll be a good build once everything is finally worked out and you have the results you want. I would be happy to pick one up if you ever go into production with these. Would be awesome if it came with a couple of dimples or stamped marks for the extra safety pin yours has.
I agree. I think the stamping has some major advantages also. Mark's a good enough designer that he can design a stamped frame without it sacrificing the quality. (because many guns were too expensive being machined, so they made stamped versions and that oftentimes destroyed the quality, durability and reliability). I heard that the Tommy gun costed about as much as it cost a person to buy 2 luxury cars... but similar guns with stamped receivers were a fraction of the cost. (I now the other guns weren't similar in quality or anything, but just similar in their mechanics... but in general, they were also mostly less reliable). If I'm not mistaken, the Tommy gun was known for being one of the most reliable.
2024 T3, 6061 T6, and 7075 T6 are pretty much our staples in aviation. 6061, in most of its forms, is our structural go-to, 7075 is used in high strength applications, landing gear trunnion mounts, bulkheads etc, and 2024 is most often found as skin material.
4032 gets used as pistons in high performance automotive and other forged aluminums are used as well. Pretty impressive how many materials we have today. Almost got hired for a manual machining job for really small inconel sensors. Magnifiers are used when deburring
I really enjoy seeing the engineering evaluations and analysis of your own mistakes. We all make them, learning from them is one of the most important parts.
My man just explained about 3 or 4 extremely complex concepts without any effort whatsoever. I have to say, all I see is intelligence personified. Hats off to you chap!
Thanks for what you do. By showing us your ideas, setups and trials you give an insight no one else gives. Almost all of your viewers probably don't have access to machinery that you have. So keep doing the American dream of making our own firearms and inspiring us aling the way.
Love to watch Mark do R&D, not many manufacturers do that, but they should and then we can appreciate all the work they went through to get it right and learn a lot in the process.
Hey Mark. I love the video! I work in a field doing something similar, (D&I- Drawing and Ironing) where we stamp out sheetmetal and roll some of it's critical dimensions into the blanks. It's cool to see more sheetmetal and stamping videos from you. Nice change of pace. Also, I've built my own AK by using a bending jig and one of those 20ton Harbor Freight presses. This video was quite informative.
After holding this in my own hands, I can tell you that it is remarkably lightweight and also a bit sexy looking. It will be interesting to see what the stamped metal design will look like, and what weight comparison it will be.
I do love the warning sign on the press, lol. Wasn't too hard to guess where it came from even before I noticed the manufacturer's plate. Anyway, it is a very cool rifle.
Years ago I watched a video about the primitive gun markets of Pakistan, the video showed two young boys in the back of a bike shop making receivers for AK's...they were annealing them over a small fire pit in the middle of the room. I was astonished at how easy they made it look, so I ordered some $89.00 Romanian AK parts kits and a few extra receiver flats. When everything showed up, I made a bending jig from some scrap steel and had at it..after a few failed attempts, I was able to make two receivers. I've been shooting them both for 25 years. Sheetmetal receivers are a really economical option....and they LAST a long time. Love to see your work, wish I had time to tinker these days. Keep nerding out on firearms, I enjoy your work!
This thing looks awesome in raw aluminum! I would definitely love to have one. But in stamped steel idk how it will look but I am sure it will be awesome when you finish! I hope I can own one of your guns one day!🤞🏽
This stuff is super interesting to me. I love that you are always coming up with interesting design ideas. I’m all about doing builds like this but you’ve got many more years of knowledge and many more dollars of machinery so I will have to live vicariously through you in the meantime.
I absolutely love this channel!!! As a mechanical engineer : I am constantly looking at his work, and views on product innovation; with a big smile on my face.
I've always loved the sweet, sweet smell of thread cutting oil. Thanks for all you cover. It's cool to see how the pros do it. Oh how cool it would be to hang out in your shop a few hours a day doing a design and absorbing info like a sponge.
Reminds me of the Australian Leader Dynamics T2 rifle or the Masterpiece Arms MPAR. Both combine AR-18O type upper with a AR-15 type lower. Both used square tube/steel stamping vs the aerospace machining intensive parts of the AR-15. The T-2 uses a simple to machine 3 lug bolt (like Barrett M82) vs the more complex AR type bolt. I think the T2 would be the perfect war production rifle. Almost everything is stamped/formed sheet metal, bolt starts as a square block cut off from a length of standard size solid square stock. Much less machining required vs AR-15. Gas driven w/o the bolt tilt problems of the AR. Easier, cheaper, and faster to produce. More rugged simple steel construction like the AK-47, easy modifiable to a folding stock. But has the superior linear recoil and ergonomics of the AR-15. What I don't like is the press/pinned barrel with goofy fore grip/hand guard, I'd love to see one compatible with AR barrels/floating hand guards. Lastly- I'd love to see a T2 upper/lower made from stainless sheet
Youre the coolest gun channel and manufacturer. I love that you just do projects you have fun with. Its so much fun to watch. I appreciate you admit when some stuff just doesnt work and then next video we see the new design. Its just so cool.
The solution may be two different springs in parallel. Depending on the length of travel available, I think you could flatten the spring curve and increase the spring force in battery by having the spring coefficient of the spring on one side weaker (smaller diameter wire) and with a long free length, and the other side having a stronger spring coefficient (bigger diameter) and shorter free length. Play around with some spring graphs and superpose them and you might get something.
I like the humbleness. Keep at it, I'm sure stoner and kalashnakov went through the same struggles and frustrations until they finally found the winning combination. I like the prototype and can't wait for the finished product
Love the video! The Small diameter spring issue sounds eerily familiar to the problems I had with my Sten S/A striker fired conversion. Makes me wonder if a larger dia spring wouldnt help me as well!
Gads I have seen those kits from Indy ordinance, a big👎👎👎. I would have preferred the original idea for welding the selector and not making the extra cutout for the auto position on the sear. It was a tried and true design with that original spring. Even the extra weight of that thicker receiver detracts from the original design.
First real comment I've seen on spring RATE vs spring *force* in a gun channel. Lower rate is what we want for a given force for the very reasons Mark mentioned. This is why I run the Tubb flat springs in my ARs, because they are super long and thus lower *rate* for the same force. It makes for a nice linear cycle and a bit more time at rear for the mag follower to rise, which helps with margin for reliability. Ideally for a civilian semi auto, the bolt would "pause" briefly at the rear to let the mag rise and such, then dump the bolt and charge fully into battery.
Everything about this vid is completely fascinating to us nerds. Love the concept of the off-the-shelf box ally gun with music wire springs, kinda like a posh Luty, and a Luty is always going to be cool.
I'd love if you started stamping out some of the MP5 flats. Hard to find at a good price! Had to use a 200lb shop hand press to wrap mine around the rounded forms for welding, and would love to get back into making them as an FFL dealer.
Beautiful build. I don't know if you have history with anodizing, but if not, you should absolutely start. It immediately became a passion equal to my build passion, and I sense it would do the same for you.
That little hole is clearly for a pin, ingenious design I must say. But to ad value to the comment section I work in a stamping facility and make metal conduit boxes, you can get a die setup in a 200 ton press to make a finished product with one stroke using multiple stages and a servo feeder system. Very efficient way to make stampings but only in high volumes
No mistakes man. You just found another way NOT to do the upper lol. Mark Serbu! One of the funniest and most humble "cocky" guys on the net! When I finally have enough money, I'll get one of your rifles...not the barrett. Yours has more soul. On the "Aluminum Wonder".... i like the look.
I love the hole machining process and everything it takes to come up with a working madel but most of all I admire all the hard work you've put into this
Hey Mark, that beast is HOT!!! Thanks for bringing us along for the ride. This kinda stuff is fascinating. Can't wait for the final product and the full send model!!!
Mark, is it possible to make a solid rivet work instead of welding in your application? A couple reasons I'd look into trying to make the solid rivets work: 1) More good residual stress (compressive), less tensile like you get with welds. 2) Field Serviceable if it fails (in theory)-- drill and squeeze vs trying to re-weld. 3) Won't screw up heat treat of base material if it's treated. There's a reason that even in this modern era, a plane has millions of solid rivets on it. When weight and fatigue strength matter for sheet materials, it's hard to beat the ancient yet superbly modern tech that is a simple solid rivet. Also-- from mfg perspective, the rivet holes can be blanked into the base plate (pre bend) or such and would help in aligning the parts. Plus, there's no denying the flush solid rivet aesthetic is awesome.
You're very inspiring and individual I really appreciate the hard work capturing these moments for your constituents..Live free and survive my friend.💯💯🙏
I just started watching your channel. I don't know what caliber your aluminum rifle is, but I have a suggestion. Wrap your 3/16" rods with 25% thinner wire. That provide a reasonable spring rate. Rebarrel to a smaller caliber.
Mark-the reinforcing ribs are cool-but be careful how dee; you go or you’ll be chasing your trim (blank)development. In a proper stamping die, you would use something called a Stripper to put pressure on the blank and your reinforcing ribs are formed by stretching the material locally. Because you aren’t controlling the blank outside of the piloting in your die, it consumes material from the trim edges. At your current depth it’s not a lot but when you add enough of them or start putting Character features in your part it will start to matter. As a matter of interest, your part would be a 5 station die in a production tool… Pilot piercing, blanking first form(ribs), second form (form the receiver bottom, restrike the bottom for bend angle adjustment, trim, bend to close the tube.
I have some of the same challenges when designing, as I am prototyping on a 3D printer but need to design for injection molding. Rectangular steel tubing can be had in many qualities/thicknesses and is a good starting point for gun design, primarily the receiver, but also the bolt carrier and trigger housing. You can totally avoid stamping and complex milling operations by careful design. The only part of a rifle that needs specialized machinery or materials is the locking lugs and pressure bearing parts. Aluminum extrusions are also great for gun building, specially smaller parts as you avoid bending or stamping. The main benefit of designing things yourself is that you can choose shapes that are easily fabricated. This is not of concern to professional gun producers as they have the machinery to make any shape they want.
I can't wait to see the final product! I'd love to get one if they go into production, especially if you can use a pic-rail on the rear for different stock options i.e. side folding.
Mark, DO A CASE HARDENED VERSION!! 🤤Sweet looking design and rifle! I love the innovation! Keep it up and I can’t wait to see the finished product!! Third hole= PEW-PEW-PEW! AKA GIGGLE SWITCH! Molon Labe!!
Awesome stuff. Really neat gun, I love seeing the steps of the engineering process. Seeing awesome stuff like this really helps me to keep having the motivation to keep pushing through my engineering degree. You've pretty much got my dream job Mark.
Okay, 3 things: 1) Bolt design. You should make the bolt reversible so it will eject out the other side of the rifle by simply flipping it 180 degrees. Keep the dual guide rods but lengthen the springs so as to add locking pressure. 2) Poly lower to reduce weight. Use off the shelf "unitized triggers" because people have their own preference between double / single stage pulls. 3) Your barrel trunnion should have 2.00 inches of clamping surface area to ensure accuracy. Assuming a .002 slip fit this should produce a 2 moa mechanical accuracy. This system will also allow for user level caliber changes with standard tools (Allen Wrench). Good luck.
I don't need to know how sausage is made to know that I like sausage. You're doing awesome things Mark. Enjoy your videos I enjoy your honesty there a definite reflection of your values. I like the quirkiness of the way you build things.
Awesome Mark! Really love the basic conversational engineering analysis. For welding you should look into one of those $10k robot arms with a laser welder on it. You'll get perfect, well localized welds every time. Probably total 3x the cost of the arm alone, but you remove the need for hiring a welder and it'll always be good. Also when can we get these 🤠
It's interesting, say a peace of art in the works. It reminds you of a stenn gun design with ar 15 design to. But I think the stamped steel would be the safest bet. It looks good Mark. Can't wait to see the progress. Thanks brother.
That rifle looks soooo good! I can't wait to see the final product. That stamping came out pretty good for a first try, it was a good idea to soften the metal to make it more pliable. I've had my own frustrations working with hardened metal.
I wanna say I like what I see you doing with this concept. I think you're redoing common things the way you would try them. And it's cool you share your victories and hurtles just the same.
And I've been interested in stamped sheet metal and it's applications for a couple years now. And no one is really geared to play with it. But the shop is teaching me brake press work now. Haha
Mark I’d love some more info on the dies and how you designed them. That would be really cool to see you pan around the solid models and ramble about clearance and metal deformation!
"Serbu will find this out in 40 years" LOL! 80w90 is what they put in rearends back when we worked on our own stuff. I'm torn between sexy beast, and gawdy. It does look an awful lot like it came from an 80's sci-fi movie! Great vid.
Yes, it is a sexy looking rifle. Will be even sexier when it works well, ha. I used to be an inspector for many stamping lines. That looks rather promising. I think the entire process can be done in mass production with...4 processes from flat sheet to ready to be welded part. Maybe 5 if that is too many holes to punch in one die. If anyone was wondering, dies are rather expensive. One automotive part line I inspected had 4 stations, and the combined cost of the dies was about a million dollars. That is one sheet metal part for an automobile. Good thing they made them by the thousands.
Cut the spring in half and put a spacer in the center of spring cut down the spring if needed.this will give you the strength at the close were the spring is weak.good luck. And yes its a sexy beast.
Nice idea on the stamping die! Great thought on blanking it with the laser then annealing it to keep the edges from cracking. That corner has a really tight bend in it are you concerned about that being a stress riser? Two things might help ease that and one is obviously a radius on the punch part but also maybe some relief one the other side so it doesn’t like almost cold forging the sharp corner from the outside against the punch might be worth examining. Dad always said when stamping metal it has to come from somewhere and has to go somewhere. Once you see it you’ll be on your way to fixing it. Like the bolt slide rails, try depressing the area around the middle on the punch allowing it to slide from the surrounding material so it stretches less from itself or put them in when it’s still flat. You might need some extra material to trim the edge because it may want to use that as it’s source. Of course these are just suggestions because I’m not a tool and die maker but I used to talk shop with one for many years and might have picked up a few ideas right, wrong, or crazy One crazy thought I had also was do you know the orientation of the steel from the laser cutting? If your die is 90 degrees to the rolling of the sheet II to = vs II to II it might influence how it forms unless it becomes amorphous somehow? Not sure if that’s a thing but it’s a curious thought I had.
Dude I'm LOVING the Ali Express press sticker
"When the machine works, the hand is forbidden"
That. Made. My. Day.
That 100% proper Engrish
@@leor2830 Definitely tells you where the press was made.
@@jcarne1015so is your phone, fridge, your lightbulbs, your computer, your TV... etc. they just sell to a wider audience and have westerners for QC 😅
I'm actually quite curious if that was on the machine as shipped, or if it was added later as a joke. Funny as hell, either way.
@@henningklaveness7082 There are multiple Tags/Labels indicating that it is a Chinese press. I guess that is just how things are today
This man is a treasure. People like him make the world smarter.
ill never meet him and i love the shit out of him
Love all of this. Firearms design and manufacture is so interesting to me. Thank you for showing us.
I think it's awesome! Always have. Firearms are so important to this country and the anti gun people either don't understand or they just want control. It's usually both.
I highly recommend "gun disassembly" app/game. Has 100's and 100's of different kinds of guns that you can take apart, put back together, shoot and even watch in 3d and x-ray views to see exactly how they work. Love gun mechanics... and that's one of the best things ever.
@@ericsfishingadventures4433 Yeah, we all NEED to know exactly how guns work... and how how to make them... but especially, we need to have the tools and materials needed to make them ourselves. The supreme court ruled that we do not need a permit to carry/own/buy or build a gun and that it is a RIGHT, also to carry a handgun and to catty a handgun concealed (not that we need their permission)... but cowards are even STILL begging their masters to exercise what they call a "Right". In the end though, there is Nothing they can do to stop people from making their own guns... and also, in another ruling (even more recently), they ruled that laws that make unserialized gun illegal are unconstitutional and that guns do Not need serial numbers, even those with "obliterated serial numbers" are legal to possess and a person cannot be charged for simply having/carrying one. The Constitution already made all gun laws unconstitutional/illegal from the start... but they just backed it up. Still though, that don't stop the greatest cowards of all (FFL's) from enforcing unjust gun "laws" on everyone else. FFL's are not only cowards for obeying each and every unjust "law", but they are the Enforcement arm of the ATF. No gun "laws" would be possible without them. Period.
To obey an unjust "law" is to enforce an unjust "law" is to create an unjust "law" is to deserve an unjust "law". I just pray we stop being so deserving of tyranny, because it is the only way we will ever stop receiving it. A nation of cowards can never be Free... and there is NOTHING they can do about it. The only laws that exist in this nation are the laws we Allow to exist... and to obey them is to deserve them.
We built a stamping press similar to that, but for prepreg carbon fiber. The two mold halves are heated and we are able to lay in the carbon fiber, stamp it and hold the pressure for 10 minutes, then the fully cured part pops out of the mold. We usually spend 6 to 8 hours in the autoclave to cure the same prepreg carbon.
I love that a manufacturer shares the process with the consumers!
And the product looks promising as well!
Hey Mark, for future reference, a light weight oil is plenty for the pressing you are doing, and for removing your parts off the die, small spring load plunger pins will pop it right off. Large diameter and no heavy spring pressure so as to not damage the steel while pressing. Will be excited to see more! I do this for a living and am always excited when people decide to take this up. Its a trade that isnt common but is very versatile and also fairly efficient with less wasted material. Plus you can forge parts and shapes with dies as well.
Idk much about stamping steel but I've seen some cases of plastic mold tools using compressed air to blow the part off. Might work with steel too if it's not too tightly on. I like the plungers too tho!
Houghton 7079p oil is great for stamping oil. You can make it whatever ratio you want with water as it emulsifies with the water. For small operation like this you can use a spray bottle. You're right about Mark should put some lift pins on bottom and top so the part blank won't stick to the die.
I was wondering if all of that very thick oil had an affect on the impression details.
The two “ribs” the charge handle will ride on. The depth didn’t look consistent, Mark noted it. Possibility the thick oil prevented the best detail. If that lube gets trapped so it can’t move out of the way, won’t it prevent the die from forming fine details correctly?
Punch press are pretty cool
Any recommendations for reading about die design? I've had a hard time finding good information on it. Seems like a lot of the concepts are a trade secret of sorts
Personally I think that's a beautiful rifle! I almost wouldn't even want to cerakote it just because of how pretty it is! We need more people like you in the metalworking industry because you clearly understand the importance of the 2nd amendment! I learn something every time I watch!
He should do a limited edition line with a blued or case hardened steel upper, wood furniture (with a fixed stock and matching FAL-esque handguard), complete with a bayonet.
The raw aluminum look is a work of art. I don't care if it works or not. I'd be proud to display that on a wall.
Looks hreat... and the stamping is a fine detail that really increases the "intelligence" of the design. It's not easy to make a gun functional, good looking and less expensive all at the same time... and it takes a lot more time and experience and intellect to make a gun like this. Some of the most successful guns were the one's that were made to be stamped, because simply stamping the frame could significantly reduce the cost of the gun... (but it could also significantly reduce the quality and the durability of the gun)... so to make a gun stamped, but still have it be a good, reliable, durable gun is not so easy. I know the P320 and Taurus G4X aren't rifles or anything, but I really like their FCU's, because they're simple and stamped. So are some others like Beretta has the Nano, Pico and APX... and there are more, but I'm having a tough time trying to remember (because the vast majority are cast/MIM steel with a couple being aluminum). All the P365, P3AT, P380, SCCY CPX 1-2-3, Taurus Spectrum, Taurus Curve, Ruger LCP, LCPII, SW Bodyguard and the vast majority of .380 and 9mm are all cast/MIM chassis guns (if they're not all polymer framed like Glocks). I actually wonder if the Taurus Spectrum and some of the other really cheap one's would be even cheaper if they all had a stamped Chassis.
Clear anodized Q style could be cool.
@@Rippers-TV I didn't even know there was a clear anodizing. But when I think about it the process is all essentially the same. So yeah instead of having to clean and polish it constantly that would be an amazing option!
Mark you probably know this, but in case you don't: Regular production stamping presses use what are called 'die strippers' in the dies or molds. In the simplest case these are just some spring plungers that are strong enough to force the part off the die. Variations are mechanical plungers that only poke out in the last half inch or so of press movement when it is opening, or pneumatically or hydraulically actuated stripper pins.
I think it’ll be a good build once everything is finally worked out and you have the results you want. I would be happy to pick one up if you ever go into production with these.
Would be awesome if it came with a couple of dimples or stamped marks for the extra safety pin yours has.
I agree. I think the stamping has some major advantages also. Mark's a good enough designer that he can design a stamped frame without it sacrificing the quality. (because many guns were too expensive being machined, so they made stamped versions and that oftentimes destroyed the quality, durability and reliability). I heard that the Tommy gun costed about as much as it cost a person to buy 2 luxury cars... but similar guns with stamped receivers were a fraction of the cost. (I now the other guns weren't similar in quality or anything, but just similar in their mechanics... but in general, they were also mostly less reliable). If I'm not mistaken, the Tommy gun was known for being one of the most reliable.
2024 T3, 6061 T6, and 7075 T6 are pretty much our staples in aviation. 6061, in most of its forms, is our structural go-to, 7075 is used in high strength applications, landing gear trunnion mounts, bulkheads etc, and 2024 is most often found as skin material.
I weld, so I stay away from anything but the 4000s. 4140 = chefs kiss 🤌
@@tobereed fuck welding aluminum is annoying but when u lay a nice bead it's nice
4032 gets used as pistons in high performance automotive and other forged aluminums are used as well. Pretty impressive how many materials we have today. Almost got hired for a manual machining job for really small inconel sensors. Magnifiers are used when deburring
@@tobereed 4140 is steel not aluminum right?
@@AK-104 both. 4140 tool steel. Or aluminum in the 4000s are easiest to weld
I really enjoy seeing the engineering evaluations and analysis of your own mistakes. We all make them, learning from them is one of the most important parts.
My man just explained about 3 or 4 extremely complex concepts without any effort whatsoever. I have to say, all I see is intelligence personified. Hats off to you chap!
Thanks for the video, Mark. I really enjoy your work!
As an old tool&die guy I am absolutely fascinated by this project! I love the whole concept and can’t wait to see your progress! 👍
I think the raw unfinished aluminum looks awesome, reminds me of a Men In Black gun! I love the 3rd pin hole for the autosear too 😏
You mean safty
@@originalgangsta5462 Yeah, I have no idea what OP was talking about... ;)
You mean "bonus hole," using Lefty buzzwords works like lamb's blood on your doorway.
Thanks for what you do. By showing us your ideas, setups and trials you give an insight no one else gives. Almost all of your viewers probably don't have access to machinery that you have. So keep doing the American dream of making our own firearms and inspiring us aling the way.
Love to watch Mark do R&D, not many manufacturers do that, but they should and then we can appreciate all the work they went through to get it right and learn a lot in the process.
Hey Mark. I love the video! I work in a field doing something similar, (D&I- Drawing and Ironing) where we stamp out sheetmetal and roll some of it's critical dimensions into the blanks.
It's cool to see more sheetmetal and stamping videos from you. Nice change of pace.
Also, I've built my own AK by using a bending jig and one of those 20ton Harbor Freight presses. This video was quite informative.
I really enjoy watching these design/manufacturing videos. Also, the whole bare aluminum, square tubing receiver looks pretty cool.
After holding this in my own hands, I can tell you that it is remarkably lightweight and also a bit sexy looking. It will be interesting to see what the stamped metal design will look like, and what weight comparison it will be.
I do love the warning sign on the press, lol. Wasn't too hard to guess where it came from even before I noticed the manufacturer's plate. Anyway, it is a very cool rifle.
The Canadian manufacturers of ar180 variants could take some lessons from you. Great video, keep up the great work!
Have No doubts...it IS a piece of Art.
I have spoken.
Cool project. Look forward to buying one.
Years ago I watched a video about the primitive gun markets of Pakistan, the video showed two young boys in the back of a bike shop making receivers for AK's...they were annealing them over a small fire pit in the middle of the room. I was astonished at how easy they made it look, so I ordered some $89.00 Romanian AK parts kits and a few extra receiver flats. When everything showed up, I made a bending jig from some scrap steel and had at it..after a few failed attempts, I was able to make two receivers. I've been shooting them both for 25 years. Sheetmetal receivers are a really economical option....and they LAST a long time. Love to see your work, wish I had time to tinker these days. Keep nerding out on firearms, I enjoy your work!
Awesome to see updates on these!
This thing looks awesome in raw aluminum! I would definitely love to have one. But in stamped steel idk how it will look but I am sure it will be awesome when you finish! I hope I can own one of your guns one day!🤞🏽
like a square AK, but hey, very sexy beast
It's easy to make something complex, but something efficient and streamlined takes skill. Beautiful work of art! You just earned a subscriber.
This stuff is super interesting to me. I love that you are always coming up with interesting design ideas. I’m all about doing builds like this but you’ve got many more years of knowledge and many more dollars of machinery so I will have to live vicariously through you in the meantime.
I absolutely love this channel!!! As a mechanical engineer : I am constantly looking at his work, and views on product innovation; with a big smile on my face.
Glad to see you attending to "pressing" matters. 😂 Cool stuff as always man! Keep it up!
Don't you know this man is pressed for time.
Vaguely reminds me of watching a documentary of how they used to build old ships... It was riveting!
I think there's a lot holes in you comment. LOL
@@caseybruno7225 if you feel it's going the way of the titanic... We may just need to let that sink in...
I'm not trying to be to pressing but the titanic was full of holes. What a reviting subject.
I've always loved the sweet, sweet smell of thread cutting oil. Thanks for all you cover. It's cool to see how the pros do it. Oh how cool it would be to hang out in your shop a few hours a day doing a design and absorbing info like a sponge.
This would be a great design to build from a kit like the old MACs
Reminds me of the Australian Leader Dynamics T2 rifle or the Masterpiece Arms MPAR. Both combine AR-18O type upper with a AR-15 type lower. Both used square tube/steel stamping vs the aerospace machining intensive parts of the AR-15. The T-2 uses a simple to machine 3 lug bolt (like Barrett M82) vs the more complex AR type bolt. I think the T2 would be the perfect war production rifle. Almost everything is stamped/formed sheet metal, bolt starts as a square block cut off from a length of standard size solid square stock. Much less machining required vs AR-15. Gas driven w/o the bolt tilt problems of the AR. Easier, cheaper, and faster to produce. More rugged simple steel construction like the AK-47, easy modifiable to a folding stock. But has the superior linear recoil and ergonomics of the AR-15. What I don't like is the press/pinned barrel with goofy fore grip/hand guard, I'd love to see one compatible with AR barrels/floating hand guards. Lastly- I'd love to see a T2 upper/lower made from stainless sheet
Amazing work Mark. It would be awesome to work on projects like this!
Youre the coolest gun channel and manufacturer. I love that you just do projects you have fun with. Its so much fun to watch. I appreciate you admit when some stuff just doesnt work and then next video we see the new design. Its just so cool.
The solution may be two different springs in parallel. Depending on the length of travel available, I think you could flatten the spring curve and increase the spring force in battery by having the spring coefficient of the spring on one side weaker (smaller diameter wire) and with a long free length, and the other side having a stronger spring coefficient (bigger diameter) and shorter free length. Play around with some spring graphs and superpose them and you might get something.
variable rate springs and call it a night
I like the humbleness. Keep at it, I'm sure stoner and kalashnakov went through the same struggles and frustrations until they finally found the winning combination. I like the prototype and can't wait for the finished product
Love the video! The Small diameter spring issue sounds eerily familiar to the problems I had with my Sten S/A striker fired conversion. Makes me wonder if a larger dia spring wouldnt help me as well!
Gads I have seen those kits from Indy ordinance, a big👎👎👎. I would have preferred the original idea for welding the selector and not making the extra cutout for the auto position on the sear. It was a tried and true design with that original spring. Even the extra weight of that thicker receiver detracts from the original design.
Love it! About time someone took it to the next level and I look forward to seeing your stamping project completion!
Always a pleasure to see mark being mark! much love brother!
There is something lovely in shaping metal especially when done with skill and passion/purpose.
I think I've just found a new favourite channel, nice work.
This is easily my favorite channel. Love the content Mark, thank you.
First real comment I've seen on spring RATE vs spring *force* in a gun channel. Lower rate is what we want for a given force for the very reasons Mark mentioned. This is why I run the Tubb flat springs in my ARs, because they are super long and thus lower *rate* for the same force. It makes for a nice linear cycle and a bit more time at rear for the mag follower to rise, which helps with margin for reliability.
Ideally for a civilian semi auto, the bolt would "pause" briefly at the rear to let the mag rise and such, then dump the bolt and charge fully into battery.
I’ve really been focused on building a bufferless ar15. I’d love a stamped upper that works on a standard lower that doesn’t require a buffer tube.
Ar18 maybe?
Everything about this vid is completely fascinating to us nerds.
Love the concept of the off-the-shelf box ally gun with music wire springs, kinda like a posh Luty, and a Luty is always going to be cool.
Good Stuff Boss progress. I really like the AR-18, your design has many of the features i like ..... Looking forward to more on this. Thanks Mark
Far out man....too cool....don't ever stop !
I'd love if you started stamping out some of the MP5 flats. Hard to find at a good price!
Had to use a 200lb shop hand press to wrap mine around the rounded forms for welding, and would love to get back into making them as an FFL dealer.
The ability to admit one's faults and or mistakes is a trait of a great man in the making...
That’s awesome!
I’m looking forward to seeing the rest of this project.
It's good to see somebody getting back to the AR 18 line of guns. Kudos Mark.
Beautiful build. I don't know if you have history with anodizing, but if not, you should absolutely start. It immediately became a passion equal to my build passion, and I sense it would do the same for you.
That little hole is clearly for a pin, ingenious design I must say. But to ad value to the comment section I work in a stamping facility and make metal conduit boxes, you can get a die setup in a 200 ton press to make a finished product with one stroke using multiple stages and a servo feeder system. Very efficient way to make stampings but only in high volumes
No mistakes man. You just found another way NOT to do the upper lol.
Mark Serbu! One of the funniest and most humble "cocky" guys on the net!
When I finally have enough money, I'll get one of your rifles...not the barrett.
Yours has more soul.
On the "Aluminum Wonder".... i like the look.
Being your own R&D and not under pressure from others,I’m sure you’ll get the results you need.all the best from the UK
Seeing the stamping process is fascinating.
I love the hole machining process and everything it takes to come up with a working madel but most of all I admire all the hard work you've put into this
Hey Mark, that beast is HOT!!! Thanks for bringing us along for the ride. This kinda stuff is fascinating. Can't wait for the final product and the full send model!!!
Can't wait for the stamped version. I love the sheet metal guns. AKM, mp5, AR18, Stoner 63. Their all classics.
Mark, is it possible to make a solid rivet work instead of welding in your application? A couple reasons I'd look into trying to make the solid rivets work:
1) More good residual stress (compressive), less tensile like you get with welds.
2) Field Serviceable if it fails (in theory)-- drill and squeeze vs trying to re-weld.
3) Won't screw up heat treat of base material if it's treated.
There's a reason that even in this modern era, a plane has millions of solid rivets on it. When weight and fatigue strength matter for sheet materials, it's hard to beat the ancient yet superbly modern tech that is a simple solid rivet.
Also-- from mfg perspective, the rivet holes can be blanked into the base plate (pre bend) or such and would help in aligning the parts.
Plus, there's no denying the flush solid rivet aesthetic is awesome.
You’re a gem. I’m such a huge fan of yours. Keep doing what you do. Please
This is so fun to watch. I feel your "Hey this worked great" when reviewing the stamping.
You're very inspiring and individual I really appreciate the hard work capturing these moments for your constituents..Live free and survive my friend.💯💯🙏
I've actually been trying to find a good video on home shop stamping for a while, this is a perfect proof of concept
And in this edition of Gun Nut Master Class..... Thanks for the process. Those of us non metalwork/machinists are grateful.
I just started watching your channel.
I don't know what caliber your aluminum rifle is, but I have a suggestion.
Wrap your 3/16" rods with 25% thinner wire. That provide a reasonable spring rate.
Rebarrel to a smaller caliber.
Mark-the reinforcing ribs are cool-but be careful how dee; you go or you’ll be chasing your trim (blank)development. In a proper stamping die, you would use something called a Stripper to put pressure on the blank and your reinforcing ribs are formed by stretching the material locally. Because you aren’t controlling the blank outside of the piloting in your die, it consumes material from the trim edges. At your current depth it’s not a lot but when you add enough of them or start putting Character features in your part it will start to matter.
As a matter of interest, your part would be a 5 station die in a production tool… Pilot piercing, blanking first form(ribs), second form (form the receiver bottom, restrike the bottom for bend angle adjustment, trim, bend to close the tube.
I have some of the same challenges when designing, as I am prototyping on a 3D printer but need to design for injection molding.
Rectangular steel tubing can be had in many qualities/thicknesses and is a good starting point for gun design, primarily the receiver, but also the bolt carrier and trigger housing. You can totally avoid stamping and complex milling operations by careful design. The only part of a rifle that needs specialized machinery or materials is the locking lugs and pressure bearing parts.
Aluminum extrusions are also great for gun building, specially smaller parts as you avoid bending or stamping. The main benefit of designing things yourself is that you can choose shapes that are easily fabricated. This is not of concern to professional gun producers as they have the machinery to make any shape they want.
Good to see you're just like me, Mark. I hope everybody's having a good one and staying warm out there. 🤙🏽
Thanks Mark, always something interesting. Hi to Val and family.
I can't wait to see the final product! I'd love to get one if they go into production, especially if you can use a pic-rail on the rear for different stock options i.e. side folding.
I'm looking forward to the finish version to hit the market.
Im in for one also. Is there a estimated release date?
It's the forbidden third hole of freedom. Btw everything you make is gold, keep it up.
If you are not cocky and try stuff, you don't do anything.
A failure is also a result.
Great stuff, I like those square shaped guns.
Mark, DO A CASE HARDENED VERSION!! 🤤Sweet looking design and rifle! I love the innovation! Keep it up and I can’t wait to see the finished product!! Third hole= PEW-PEW-PEW! AKA GIGGLE SWITCH! Molon Labe!!
Awesome stuff. Really neat gun, I love seeing the steps of the engineering process. Seeing awesome stuff like this really helps me to keep having the motivation to keep pushing through my engineering degree. You've pretty much got my dream job Mark.
I think it’s great that you share the design and manufacturing thought process! Love the gun so far!
Enjoyed the peek into the process of this design.
Great video. Thanks for sharing the whole development process! I like this rifle!
Okay, 3 things: 1) Bolt design. You should make the bolt reversible so it will eject out the other side of the rifle by simply flipping it 180 degrees. Keep the dual guide rods but lengthen the springs so as to add locking pressure. 2) Poly lower to reduce weight. Use off the shelf "unitized triggers" because people have their own preference between double / single stage pulls. 3) Your barrel trunnion should have 2.00 inches of clamping surface area to ensure accuracy. Assuming a .002 slip fit this should produce a 2 moa mechanical accuracy. This system will also allow for user level caliber changes with standard tools (Allen Wrench).
Good luck.
I don't need to know how sausage is made to know that I like sausage. You're doing awesome things Mark. Enjoy your videos I enjoy your honesty there a definite reflection of your values. I like the quirkiness of the way you build things.
This was great, I really enjoyed listening to this continuous thought. Good stuff
All very smart words Mark, you are absolutely correct ( as I have often found to my own misfortune too)
Awesome Mark! Really love the basic conversational engineering analysis. For welding you should look into one of those $10k robot arms with a laser welder on it. You'll get perfect, well localized welds every time. Probably total 3x the cost of the arm alone, but you remove the need for hiring a welder and it'll always be good.
Also when can we get these 🤠
Hey us weld bros need work too
It's interesting, say a peace of art in the works. It reminds you of a stenn gun design with ar 15 design to. But I think the stamped steel would be the safest bet. It looks good Mark. Can't wait to see the progress. Thanks brother.
That rifle looks soooo good! I can't wait to see the final product. That stamping came out pretty good for a first try, it was a good idea to soften the metal to make it more pliable. I've had my own frustrations working with hardened metal.
Thanks Mark for taking us along on your voyage of discovery!
I would buy one of those in a heartbeat when you get it lined out.
I wanna say I like what I see you doing with this concept. I think you're redoing common things the way you would try them. And it's cool you share your victories and hurtles just the same.
And I've been interested in stamped sheet metal and it's applications for a couple years now. And no one is really geared to play with it. But the shop is teaching me brake press work now. Haha
Mark I’d love some more info on the dies and how you designed them. That would be really cool to see you pan around the solid models and ramble about clearance and metal deformation!
Man I'm digging that rifle and I noticed the third pin and a mere peasant without an SOT, seeing that makes me happy
"Serbu will find this out in 40 years" LOL! 80w90 is what they put in rearends back when we worked on our own stuff. I'm torn between sexy beast, and gawdy. It does look an awful lot like it came from an 80's sci-fi movie! Great vid.
Yes, it is a sexy looking rifle. Will be even sexier when it works well, ha.
I used to be an inspector for many stamping lines. That looks rather promising. I think the entire process can be done in mass production with...4 processes from flat sheet to ready to be welded part. Maybe 5 if that is too many holes to punch in one die. If anyone was wondering, dies are rather expensive. One automotive part line I inspected had 4 stations, and the combined cost of the dies was about a million dollars. That is one sheet metal part for an automobile. Good thing they made them by the thousands.
As far as the springs go. You'd never, ever know if you never ever go. Worth a shot as it may have worked.
Cut the spring in half and put a spacer in the center of spring cut down the spring if needed.this will give you the strength at the close were the spring is weak.good luck. And yes its a sexy beast.
Nice idea on the stamping die! Great thought on blanking it with the laser then annealing it to keep the edges from cracking. That corner has a really tight bend in it are you concerned about that being a stress riser?
Two things might help ease that and one is obviously a radius on the punch part but also maybe some relief one the other side so it doesn’t like almost cold forging the sharp corner from the outside against the punch might be worth examining.
Dad always said when stamping metal it has to come from somewhere and has to go somewhere. Once you see it you’ll be on your way to fixing it. Like the bolt slide rails, try depressing the area around the middle on the punch allowing it to slide from the surrounding material so it stretches less from itself or put them in when it’s still flat. You might need some extra material to trim the edge because it may want to use that as it’s source.
Of course these are just suggestions because I’m not a tool and die maker but I used to talk shop with one for many years and might have picked up a few ideas right, wrong, or crazy
One crazy thought I had also was do you know the orientation of the steel from the laser cutting? If your die is 90 degrees to the rolling of the sheet II to = vs II to II it might influence how it forms unless it becomes amorphous somehow? Not sure if that’s a thing but it’s a curious thought I had.
Loving the stamping, Mark. Also the attention to detail about normalising after laser cutting. No cracks seen! 🙂
Enjoy the journey. Always learning, every day.