This video, good pointers, in general. I say this with several decades of experience in this type of work, (equipment being flex shaft in the '70s and micromotor handpieces in latter years). . Burrs are made of stainless steel, carbide, crusted industrial diamonds and available in acrange of shapes. If this and thick efffects are desired --on metals--, inverted cone is good shape to select. . it will provide best results to use metal burrs that are harder than any metal surface being cut. (ie) on stainless or other steel, preference should be carbide burrs --dull steel burrs can slip off the surface, out of hand's control-. . for glass & crystals, diiamond is used --at slower speed--. . Various carborundum discs are also used to create attractive effects on glass & crystals mainly for illustrations. Lines: keeping lines of work straight / uniformed letters, use felt tipped pen (alcohol based). Mark in all work to present neat work so as to achieve correct spacings -also to avoid running out of space at end-. None of the above is recommended for a new starter if expensive item is to be engraved. Remember, anything engraved can not be erased, unless solid gold or silver which can be repaired by a jeweller at considerable cost. The above should not be attenpted without extensive practice with hand engraving equipment, as well as a good level practice in lettering and skill in handpiece use.
I learned about the old vs new burr the same way you did - trial and error! That tip with the micron is great, I wouldn't have thought of it. Thanks Telisa! I agree with the below - you're a natural on camera
I loved this Telisa! For a Christmas present I engraved a stainless steel liquor flask. I made my draft with a stabilo pencil and scratched the heck out of it. It was ok, in the end, but I wish I had seen your video first! Also, before seeing your example, I thought the back of a watch was too busy with all the brand stamping to look good engraved, but you showed how pretty it can look!
This video, good pointers, in general.
I say this with several decades of experience in this type of work, (equipment being flex shaft in the '70s and micromotor handpieces in latter years).
. Burrs are made of stainless steel, carbide, crusted industrial diamonds and available in acrange of shapes. If this and thick efffects are desired --on metals--, inverted cone is good shape to select.
. it will provide best results to use metal burrs that are harder than any metal surface being cut.
(ie) on stainless or other steel, preference should be carbide burrs --dull steel burrs can slip off the surface, out of hand's control-.
. for glass & crystals, diiamond is used --at slower speed--.
. Various carborundum discs are also used to create attractive effects on glass & crystals mainly for illustrations.
Lines: keeping lines of work straight / uniformed letters, use felt tipped pen (alcohol based). Mark in all work to present neat work so as to achieve correct spacings -also to avoid running out of space at end-.
None of the above is recommended for a new starter if expensive item is to be engraved.
Remember, anything engraved can not be erased, unless solid gold or silver which can be repaired by a jeweller at considerable cost.
The above should not be attenpted without extensive practice with hand engraving equipment, as well as a good level practice in lettering and skill in handpiece use.
okay! that micron tip is so so helpful. Thank you for this detailed video
Thank u from Pakistan 🇵🇰 😊
I learned about the old vs new burr the same way you did - trial and error! That tip with the micron is great, I wouldn't have thought of it. Thanks Telisa! I agree with the below - you're a natural on camera
Awww thank you so much, Melissa!
Such a good tip about the old vs. new burr! Thank you!!
You're very welcome! :)
Love the video. You really are a natural at this. So glad you are doing this. I’ll finally get my engraver out to do it.
Thank you! Happy engraving!
Me encanto!!! Siempre agradecida por compartir tus tips profesionales. Saludos desde Ecuador.
I don't know Spanish but thank you so much for watching!
I loved this Telisa! For a Christmas present I engraved a stainless steel liquor flask. I made my draft with a stabilo pencil and scratched the heck out of it. It was ok, in the end, but I wish I had seen your video first! Also, before seeing your example, I thought the back of a watch was too busy with all the brand stamping to look good engraved, but you showed how pretty it can look!
Thank you, Carol! So glad you find it useful at least for next present or client project you will know! 😊
Thank you Telisa. When would you use a new burr? On glass?
So many useful tips in this video. Well done 👍🏻 Telisa ❤️
Thank you for watching, Olukemi! ❤️