I have this amp pushing 4 8s it does its job but clearly it’s not pushing out the watts it advertises it goes into protect with them being turned up slightly and gets extremely hot
Had one pushing to 12s in my chevy blazer ,now i have the 2500 version pushing the same 12s in my wife's chevy tahoe ,it's actually dimming the lights when the bass hits
Great videos man, subscribed. I'm learning car audio stuff and I'm curious why you always test at 40hz? I bought a used Pioneer TS-SWX2502 in great shape and it came with a Pioneer 500w peak amp that I know is under powered for this sub. The sub is rated for 400w RMS at 4ohms according to Pioneer and sounds suprisingly good even with the small amp, but I want to get a better amp to improve sound and protect the sub. I was looking at this amp and the Lanzar HTG137 you reviewed and they both seem pretty weak. Obviously looking a budget options, any recommendations?
40hz is kinda industry standard to test monoblock amps it is a good baseline frequency. For cheap yet good check out skar they put out more or at least what they say and they are good quality. But there are a ton of options depending n your needs and budget. Thank so much for watching!
@@HiFiVector the Skar stuff does look great in your videos but it's harder to get in Canada. Is there any chance the planet audio or lanzar would power this smaller sub of mine effectively?
@@brolanlaurier9610 if you are going to run 1 sub at 4 ohms here are a few budget amps that would be perfect these are Soundstreams TXP3500.1D amzn.to/3FQqLlb PN1.650D amzn.to/3Zcu7pA And here is a Planet audio that would work since you asked about a planet audio amp. BBD2500 amzn.to/3FM4vZC All will give you round 400W True power at 4 ohms. I would personally choose the PN1.650D as its korean made and small but any of these budgets amps will be good for what you are looking to do.
@@HiFiVector I really appreciate the help here, but Canada sucks sometimes lol. The only one I have good access to is the BBD2500 and it's over $300 shipped.
The whole it feels heavy and well built well I had a PA Torque 1500.1 and when i took it apart it there was 2 cavitys that ran the length of heatsink/amp body in each side and in this cavity was a 5/8" x 8" ish steel round bar slid inside it, it was obviously an attempt to make a amp with not much substance feel like it did... I took the bars out slapped it together to see what it weighed and it felt like nothing... So imo if someone needs some nice fat steel round bar but a PA amp pull the steel out and toss the rest in the trash can. How does PA/boss still sell this crap when companies like recoil sell several badass amps for under $100?!?!
Running a line out converter with this amp where should the sensitivity switch be set to the far left or right i had set to the right 2-8volt settings is this right
Goes to how you how over-hyped wattage/power ratings are for amps in general...you'll find similar results in the higher end models as well. I run one of these AC1500.1M amps in my F-150, It's powering two 12" 2-Ohm DVC shallow mount Cerwin-Vega subs, wired for 2-Ohms. I knew the 300W RMS rating of the subs probably wouldn't be pushed much by this Amp...glad I didn't waste $$ on subs with 500W+ RMS . That being said, the subs still sound great and I've never had issues with the amp. How were gain and bass boost dials set on the amp when you ran the vector test? Were they cranked all the way up?
@@HiFiVector I legit just bought this amp and was a bit disappointed seeing this until I finally found the pdf for the sub I'm going to use it on. Apparently, my sub is only 200 wats max anyways, so this isn't even that far off of the subs rating. For the price to wattage, it's not all that horrible. Wouldn't be near as bad if they didn't try and inflate their ratings so bad.
class A/B monoblock fused for a 30amp electrical draw at 55% to 60% efficiency, 100w rms @ 4ohms and 175w rms @ 2 ohms is not a surprising result. Amazon has a Fydun monoblock class D for sale that is usually found cheaper than the planet audio, it's fused for a 40 amp current draw and with class D efficiency it should be good for about 175~200w rms @ 4ohms and 275~300w rms @ 2ohms.
I bought my 4runner with this amp already in it, so i threw my 2 12" rockford Fosgate p2s in and I'm slammin no lie...dk how if it's not even powering one sub😂
I'm actually disappointed with this amplifier I will say I have this amplifier and the only beneficial thing about it is it's been submerged underwater and once it dried out it worked fine again
Nah there are a lot better amps out there that will out of more power for a li more money. Unless you are just looking to add a little dill in bass. Then it’s fine. Just like BOSS they are built well just don’t put out much power. So just depends on what you are looking to do.
Wow, glad I checked this out before purchase. I would say you get what you pay for but in this case you get even less than you pay for. What a disappointing product.
*Had this pushing 2 12 American Bass DX and it was rocking my Impala!*
I have this amp pushing 4 8s it does its job but clearly it’s not pushing out the watts it advertises it goes into protect with them being turned up slightly and gets extremely hot
Take note: your low budget amps (90% of the time) you can drop the -0- & that's the true number.... Example - 1500w will be 150w.
Had one pushing to 12s in my chevy blazer ,now i have the 2500 version pushing the same 12s in my wife's chevy tahoe ,it's actually dimming the lights when the bass hits
Get some OFC 4 gauge wire . And a good battery and you’ll be good
CaN we get some powerbass amps?
Great videos man, subscribed.
I'm learning car audio stuff and I'm curious why you always test at 40hz?
I bought a used Pioneer TS-SWX2502 in great shape and it came with a Pioneer 500w peak amp that I know is under powered for this sub.
The sub is rated for 400w RMS at 4ohms according to Pioneer and sounds suprisingly good even with the small amp, but I want to get a better amp to improve sound and protect the sub.
I was looking at this amp and the Lanzar HTG137 you reviewed and they both seem pretty weak.
Obviously looking a budget options, any recommendations?
40hz is kinda industry standard to test monoblock amps it is a good baseline frequency. For cheap yet good check out skar they put out more or at least what they say and they are good quality. But there are a ton of options depending n your needs and budget. Thank so much for watching!
@@HiFiVector the Skar stuff does look great in your videos but it's harder to get in Canada.
Is there any chance the planet audio or lanzar would power this smaller sub of mine effectively?
@@brolanlaurier9610 if you are going to run 1 sub at 4 ohms here are a few budget amps that would be perfect these are Soundstreams
TXP3500.1D amzn.to/3FQqLlb
PN1.650D amzn.to/3Zcu7pA
And here is a Planet audio that would work since you asked about a planet audio amp.
BBD2500 amzn.to/3FM4vZC
All will give you round 400W True power at 4 ohms. I would personally choose the PN1.650D as its korean made and small but any of these budgets amps will be good for what you are looking to do.
@@HiFiVector I really appreciate the help here, but Canada sucks sometimes lol.
The only one I have good access to is the BBD2500 and it's over $300 shipped.
The whole it feels heavy and well built well I had a PA Torque 1500.1 and when i took it apart it there was 2 cavitys that ran the length of heatsink/amp body in each side and in this cavity was a 5/8" x 8" ish steel round bar slid inside it, it was obviously an attempt to make a amp with not much substance feel like it did... I took the bars out slapped it together to see what it weighed and it felt like nothing... So imo if someone needs some nice fat steel round bar but a PA amp pull the steel out and toss the rest in the trash can. How does PA/boss still sell this crap when companies like recoil sell several badass amps for under $100?!?!
I got one for 40 bucks and 2 10 inch kickers in a box for a 100. Its not a bad set up.
It pushes my 10 but overheats when it gets lowww.
Running a line out converter with this amp where should the sensitivity switch be set to the far left or right i had set to the right 2-8volt settings is this right
Read up on how to set input and output gains. To long to explain here.
I see you are pretty new. Glad to be one of the first to subscribe.
Been in car audio 30 years but just started doing videos last year. Thanks so much for subscribing!
The cover on my cigarette lighter in car says 12v AC 150W max.....I could almost plug the Amp into that for power
Goes to how you how over-hyped wattage/power ratings are for amps in general...you'll find similar results in the higher end models as well. I run one of these AC1500.1M amps in my F-150, It's powering two 12" 2-Ohm DVC shallow mount Cerwin-Vega subs, wired for 2-Ohms. I knew the 300W RMS rating of the subs probably wouldn't be pushed much by this Amp...glad I didn't waste $$ on subs with 500W+ RMS . That being said, the subs still sound great and I've never had issues with the amp. How were gain and bass boost dials set on the amp when you ran the vector test? Were they cranked all the way up?
Yep nothing wrong with lower power amps as long as you use efficient lower wattage subs. I agree, the false wattages happen over many brands.
@@HiFiVector I legit just bought this amp and was a bit disappointed seeing this until I finally found the pdf for the sub I'm going to use it on. Apparently, my sub is only 200 wats max anyways, so this isn't even that far off of the subs rating. For the price to wattage, it's not all that horrible. Wouldn't be near as bad if they didn't try and inflate their ratings so bad.
For a 200 watt sub it will be fine for sure.
What do u recommend for two plant audio subs 10inch combined 3000 watts
What model subs and which ohm?
Have this pushing 2 12” 1000W and it bumps
What RMS and size sub would be ideal for this amp?
1 sub and it would need to be as low as possible really I would say no more than 300w rms sub. You can do a 8,10.or 12 . Low cost sub.
@@HiFiVector 2ohm sub Im guessing? I got the amp for free lol so might as well use it. What would you suggest me run?
For this amp this skar sub in one of these 2 boxes would be great.
amzn.to/3L4G6z3
amzn.to/3vDlmYH
amzn.to/3ECRGPJ
Make sure to get a dual 4 ohm sub and wire it to 2 ohms.
@@HiFiVector do you think a 500 watt rms sub will do okay on this amp?
class A/B monoblock fused for a 30amp electrical draw at 55% to 60% efficiency, 100w rms @ 4ohms and 175w rms @ 2 ohms is not a surprising result.
Amazon has a Fydun monoblock class D for sale that is usually found cheaper than the planet audio, it's fused for a 40 amp current draw and with class D efficiency it should be good for about 175~200w rms @ 4ohms and 275~300w rms @ 2ohms.
How in the heck can they claim 1500w??
Max
I bought my 4runner with this amp already in it, so i threw my 2 12" rockford Fosgate p2s in and I'm slammin no lie...dk how if it's not even powering one sub😂
I'm actually disappointed with this amplifier I will say I have this amplifier and the only beneficial thing about it is it's been submerged underwater and once it dried out it worked fine again
Terrible!! 🤧 i'll just pay taramps price atleast ik i'll get a little over the rated power guaranteed!! Thanks for this test!
So is it a safe buy?
Nah there are a lot better amps out there that will out of more power for a li more money. Unless you are just looking to add a little dill in bass. Then it’s fine. Just like BOSS they are built well just don’t put out much power. So just depends on what you are looking to do.
Wow, glad I checked this out before purchase. I would say you get what you pay for but in this case you get even less than you pay for. What a disappointing product.
Disregard last comment didn't see the other videos lol
I have this same amp and it sucks. Im going back to my trusty sony xplod