"Shallow guided tap wrench..." That got me thinking. Perhaps a wrench which clamps on to the tap just above the flutes, leaving the shank to slide into a tubular guide in the machine spindle. I need to mull that over for a while.
Good evening Mark, I assume you have all the holiday decorations up and you got permission to go play in the shop? It’s good to see you back online and doing another excellent project. Keep them coming my friend.
Nice…suggestion! On the opposite side cut back the blade so that you have long narrow end to reach into a part…1/8” tall by “X” length, just flip when needed, also make thumb screw in lieu of Allen wrench…
Mark what kind of Tig wire are you using and what is the max amperage of your machine? My machine is a Miller EconoTig max 130 amp on Tig with remote foot pedal. I seem to be having trouble getting enough heat with the foot pedal. I've checked the pedal resister with a meter and it seems to be working okay. i took a break from using it for Tig for about 25 years so I don't know if it is me or the machine or wire I am using. I done miles and miles of Tig welding as in my younger days I was a professional welder. Therefore I am not a beginner to the process.
I think ER70S-6. My Vevor welder is 205 and the YESwelder is 250 amp. I have foot pedal for the YES but never use it. Mostly because I get tired of dragging the pedal around but also because I haven't adequately trained my brain to use it. I tend to forget about my foot and end up using too many amps. However, I will say this (and you might be aware of this). Whatever I set the amps to on my YES welder is the highest amp achievable with the foot pedal. Is your welder set for high amperage when you use the pedal?
Interesting... Maybe I'm not playing this youtube game the right way. Like i stop the mid roll advertisements because I think they are annoying but that also limits the money UA-cam can make with my videos. Maybe I need to allow one midroll and see what happens.
Hello Mark. I know this is off-topic, but in one of your videos, you mentioned you had broken a keyway broach while using it and would like some information on how to use them. The best advice I can give is to get the broach just started in the cut, then back the press completely off. This allows the cutter to straighten itself before continuing and relieves any misalignment between the part and the press. Hope you find this helpful. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
Certainly the broach was moving away from the bushing but ideally there should be a way to hold the broach in the bushing groove. In the case where I broke the broach I was cutting at least an inch thick in steel and the back rake of the broach teeth pulled the broah into the cut. Maybe it was just too much being cut but the next time I used a broach I cut the bulk of the steel with an end mill and it worked well. Oddly the broach also pulled the shim through the bushing on the second pass. I think broaching a keyway is a flawed method. Put it this way, everyone I have ever seen broaching a keyway breaths a sigh of relief when they finish. If had the need to cut a keyway very often I'd buy a shaper of build a reciprocating keyway cutter. But thanks for the input, I'm fairly certain I did as you suggested anyway but I will watch closely next time.
Why wouldn't you use the same hardware on the 2 pieces to reduce having to grab different tools to set it up? I am new to this and trying to learn. Please don't hate for the question.
Hi Winky, Vise stops are very useful but take time to set up and remove when no longer needed. I’d like to send you photos of my design that attaches to the vise and folds completely out of the way when no longer needed. I need your email to do so if you don’t mind sharing it. Thanks for all you do to educate us.
Thanks, photos coming soon. My vise is a 6 inch Kurt. The stop pivots off the back of the rear jaw mount. You’ll understand how it works when you see the photos.
Sorry, wish I could but YT won’t allow photos on their site. Maybe Winky can flash some that I’ll send for his viewers on a future video if he chooses. My design won’t work on all vises but it does a good job on my Kurt.
"Shallow guided tap wrench..." That got me thinking. Perhaps a wrench which clamps on to the tap just above the flutes, leaving the shank to slide into a tubular guide in the machine spindle. I need to mull that over for a while.
I like the way you're thinking!
Simple, but totally effective. Just like a home run, cheers Mark, and thanks for the vid!
Thanks!
Your work always comes out very nice, thanks for sharing some tips along the way!!
Thanks, It's always fun to think about new ways to make things better.
Thanks a LOT--like I needed another project. Nicely done.
I know what you mean! Thanks 🙂
Good design Mark very handy for thin materials 👍👍
I think so too. Thanks
Great job mark thanks for sharing your ideas.
You're welcome!
Good evening Mark,
I assume you have all the holiday decorations up and you got permission to go play in the shop?
It’s good to see you back online and doing another excellent project.
Keep them coming my friend.
Thanks Jim, fortunately my wife doesnt go crazy on the decoration.
A neat a versatile solution, expertly crafted. Well done. 👏👏👍😀
Thank you very much!
Good work.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Nice work!
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Hello Winky, Excellent design, I love it, thanks for sharing, Cheers from me. 😃👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers! Thanks for watching.
Very nice mate, that one is going on my to do list.
Cool
Looks good, works good. Always good when we can improve things in the shop.
Dave.
Thanks Dave!
Very interesting. Nice work sir.
Glad you liked it! Thanks
Simple but effective,Mark.Thank you.
Very welcome
Making things is good. Making things better is... better :)
haha... TRUE!
Great Content. You set a standard for others to follow.
Thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it.
Nice…suggestion! On the opposite side cut back the blade so that you have long narrow end to reach into a part…1/8” tall by “X” length, just flip when needed, also make thumb screw in lieu of Allen wrench…
Both good ideas. Thanks
Nice design winky, great video, keep'um coming.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thank you for sharing.👍
You're welcome
Mark what kind of Tig wire are you using and what is the max amperage of your machine? My machine is a Miller EconoTig max 130 amp on Tig with remote foot pedal. I seem to be having trouble getting enough heat with the foot pedal. I've checked the pedal resister with a meter and it seems to be working okay. i took a break from using it for Tig for about 25 years so I don't know if it is me or the machine or wire I am using. I done miles and miles of Tig welding as in my younger days I was a professional welder. Therefore I am not a beginner to the process.
I think ER70S-6. My Vevor welder is 205 and the YESwelder is 250 amp. I have foot pedal for the YES but never use it. Mostly because I get tired of dragging the pedal around but also because I haven't adequately trained my brain to use it. I tend to forget about my foot and end up using too many amps. However, I will say this (and you might be aware of this). Whatever I set the amps to on my YES welder is the highest amp achievable with the foot pedal. Is your welder set for high amperage when you use the pedal?
Love your videos, I dont get why you only have 45K subs, should be 10x that
Interesting... Maybe I'm not playing this youtube game the right way. Like i stop the mid roll advertisements because I think they are annoying but that also limits the money UA-cam can make with my videos. Maybe I need to allow one midroll and see what happens.
Hello Mark. I know this is off-topic, but in one of your videos, you mentioned you had broken a keyway broach while using it and would like some information on how to use them. The best advice I can give is to get the broach just started in the cut, then back the press completely off. This allows the cutter to straighten itself before continuing and relieves any misalignment between the part and the press. Hope you find this helpful. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.
Certainly the broach was moving away from the bushing but ideally there should be a way to hold the broach in the bushing groove. In the case where I broke the broach I was cutting at least an inch thick in steel and the back rake of the broach teeth pulled the broah into the cut. Maybe it was just too much being cut but the next time I used a broach I cut the bulk of the steel with an end mill and it worked well. Oddly the broach also pulled the shim through the bushing on the second pass. I think broaching a keyway is a flawed method. Put it this way, everyone I have ever seen broaching a keyway breaths a sigh of relief when they finish. If had the need to cut a keyway very often I'd buy a shaper of build a reciprocating keyway cutter. But thanks for the input, I'm fairly certain I did as you suggested anyway but I will watch closely next time.
Großartig 👍👍👍
Thanks
Thank you for the video for me i wish I learnt about this before I retied machine
Thanks Peter, your welcome.
Neat design!
Thanks!
nice work
Thanks
Why wouldn't you use the same hardware on the 2 pieces to reduce having to grab different tools to set it up? I am new to this and trying to learn. Please don't hate for the question.
The same steel? Not sure what you're asking
@@WinkysWorkshop Same size, thread pitch, head. So that you only need 1 tool to adjust both pieces.
@@tommyj7087 AH... gottya now. Yeah, you are right, that would have been a good idea!
👍😎👍
Thanks
You could twist the original stop end against the rear jaw and put a packer between the thinner part and the moving jaw.
Very true, thanks
I'd use pins as the stop points. Blades are to big. Small pins can be changeable thickness at jaws. Your slides will work for adjusting.
Pins work well. I made one that mounted to the vise s few years ago. This one is a little quicker to set up at least compared to the one I made.
Hi Winky,
Vise stops are very useful but take time to set up and remove when no longer needed. I’d like to send you photos of my design that attaches to the vise and folds completely out of the way when no longer needed. I need your email to do so if you don’t mind sharing it. Thanks for all you do to educate us.
Winkysworkshop@GMX.com I've had some on the vise also. I like this better but you might have a better idea.
Thanks, photos coming soon. My vise is a 6 inch Kurt. The stop pivots off the back of the rear jaw mount. You’ll understand how it works when you see the photos.
If you agree, can we see pictures of your design?
Sorry, wish I could but YT won’t allow photos on their site. Maybe Winky can flash some that I’ll send for his viewers on a future video if he chooses. My design won’t work on all vises but it does a good job on my Kurt.