UPDATE: Trying to Fix the Faulty Bent Nintendo Switch Not Docking
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Hi, this trying to fix video shows me attempting to fix the docking issue on the bent Switch that I previously repaired. (The 2nd Nintendo Switch repair).
Remember that this is just for entertainment and I am not an expert in these repairs. The processes in the video may not be the best way, the correct way or the safest way to fix these things.
I do love fault finding and trying to fix broken things so I hope that comes across in this 'Trying to FIX' series.
Many thanks, Vince.
I've always seemed to have a fascination with watching people learn a task or procedure. Thank you for sharing your learning process.
Great videos and very entertaining, more of them please! About the Switch that only displays 480p, here is a video about it and how to fix it: ua-cam.com/video/xF4giWFsR70/v-deo.html
Greetings from Germany!
Your channel is a perfect example of how you don't need expensive equipment & video editing software to be successful. I love how you still use Windows Movie Maker in 2018! Videos are still great too 👍
Thanks mate :-)
ok, first of all, nice going with the repair. You've kept your head, been careful and you've done a pretty good job all around.
now:
* try to factory reset that non-docking switch, it sounds more like a software problem, but it could be that one of the chips is broken internally, so the external switch circuitry is dead
* that blob of thermal paste was 4-5 times bigger than necessary. air's a good insulator, and the paste is supposed to get rid of any microscopic air gaps, not magically move heat
* if there's ever a kind of large, fat, putty-like square between heatsink and chip, it's a thermal *pad*, don't chuck it away as thermal paste won't work. You CAN buy replacement thermal pads real cheap from china, but getting the right thickness/type is a PITA.
* you should really get some thermal protective tape instead of using tinfoil, which is spreading the heat rather than protecting
* USB-C is reversible, but that means that bottom-left switches to top-right, not bottom left to top left when you reverse it (it goes around, not mirrored) :)
* when you're heat gunning things, don't yank the components, take your time, don't blast things, and use tweezers to ease them up when they're loose, or you risk pulling up the tracks on the motherboard.
* when in doubt, flux.
* get yourself some IPA (iso-propyl alcohol) for cleaning up flux, the alcohol you used is good, IPA is better.
* learn about solder braid for cleaning solder pads
* have fun, you're doing really well :)
Brilliant, great list of advice and tips. Thank you :-)
Get your self a IPA ( beer) for drinking after fixing stuff.
i have the exact same problem, except my switch's resolution settings only display 480p and 720p. not 1080p. and yes, i know i'm pretty late in this
Completely erase and factory reset the thing at the lowest level you can, it seems software related.
youre an idiot. it fixed nothing
nah didn't fix my faulty one, idc I only play in handheld and my main Switch has 1080p
Dumbass
@@Suedeash same
not sure if you are still monitoring these comments but I have a switch here with exactly the same issue. I bought one with a docking issue and 480p only. I tried everything to get it working, system reset, diffrent dock, different ac adapter etc etc. I then left it overnight in the dock charging, woke up next morning, pushed the home button on my joycon and it actually showed an image on screen. I then restarted the switch whilst docked and the video options all showed up. I selected 1080p, undocked the console and redocked it multiple times and all seemed well. I put mario kart in and it then started to update then all of a sudden my screen went black and now the switch won't dock. Out of ideas, anyone got any input?
You should use the community post feature on UA-cam to ask questions while working on something.
Great video as usual Vince. Very entertaining. While I'm not an expert at working on the Switch specifically, I do work with electronics and components as well. Doing a little research, I did come across some information that the chip you were looking into is indeed the chip that controls the HDMI out to TV function, known as a Matrix Switch. This particular one being the Pericom Semiconductor PI3USB30532 USB 3.0/DP1.2 matrix switch, which I was able to find with a mixture of an iFixit teardown that outline the components, and Pericom's website: www.diodes.com/products/connectivity-and-timing/switches-mux/protocol-switches/usb-switches/part/PI3USB30532#tab-overview
Under the Specs & Tech Docs they outline the chip is used for HDMI out to TV for devices such as Laptops, Tablets, and Mobile; As well as it's use for Docking output via USB C connection.
I do think that having it usable in Handheld mode is better than the potential damage that could come with trying to replace the chip, however.
Thanks for the info and the link :-)
that with 480p is normal.
if you buy a new switch, it will show only 480p and auto.
it will only show 720p+ if you dock it and plug it in a 720p/1080p screen.
Interesting, I never knew that :-)
I'd suggest trying to factory reset and re install updates 1 by 1...no switch experience but have known other devices to install a update over a currupt os leaving some features not available
Just a heads up, that was waaaay too much thermal paste.
Nope, did you see how much was put from the factory? Also that Switch seems worst that some laptops gaps, so more thermal paste for better coverage.
i like that word "computerist" im stealing it and making it mine
Indeed. It's a bit too much for the Switch. Half of that is more than enough.
It's better than not having enough to cover the spreader. Sure using too much is a wasteful & inefficient use of paste but having it really won't have a negative affect on the temperature since the retention of the cooler will spread & thin it out pushing the excess from the sides which so long as the paste is non-electrically conductive, which this one is, will be safe for the other components. In fact in cases like a GPU with an exposed die with no heat spreader you really want to lean on the side of using too much since missing even a tiny bit of coverage would be catastrophic for it.
Who cares. It's his paste and he can waste it if he wants. It won't affect performance.
Hey I need some help! I'm trying to Connect my wiiU controller to the Nintendo Switch, USB drive. If you can help that would be awesome!!!
no
I'm gonna be on the hunt for faulty Switches to fix on my channel. Quite inspiring channel you have.
I'll never stop saying this : Start a Patreon page. I'm pretty a lot of us would love to support you so you can do more video and get better gear! ;)
I agree. Just a simple place to show that we appreciate your videos and would like to afford you perhaps more parts and equipment that could help you work on bigger projects and further your knowledge. Cause that is what it's really about right?
We will beat TronicsFix next time for sure :)
No
Any update on this?
I have a switch with a similar issue.
Except, I have all the resolution options.
Works and Charges fine, used 3 different TVs and 2 known working docks.
Just can't get it to Dock.
I Bought it Second hand..... Was told it was a broken Dock.
Exactly the same issue I'm having right now also tried to change P13USB not working at all, do you solved it？ Please let me know thank you!
Have you restored it to factory setting I assume you have but if not try that you never know
Georgie Steward when u start up a new switch it has to go to the tv so if he resets it it could be completely useless
no it doesn't you can skip that part of connecting to the tv when I bought mine I never connected it up and just use it portable
@@JEFF-dd3vu thats 100% false pal. I bought one a week ago and met the guy in a Dennys parking lot and was patient enough to let me set up my hotspot and connect the Switch to it and set it up entirely.
@@sethkauffman9915 he skipped it when he fixed this switch that isn't docking
@@sethkauffman9915 sry meant to respond to jeff comment
Hi, I tried to click on your Ebay shop page on your website but the link didn't work. I live in the UK and am interested in buying a Switch off you if you plan on selling any of the one's that you have fixed.
Maybe a Factory Reset could help...
www.ign.com/wikis/nintendo-switch/How_to_Wipe_%28Reinitialize%29_System
Did you ever find the problem? I just bought a brand new switch and it only gives me the 480p choice
Look I'm no expert but gamestop fix this for less then 35£€$
Don't know how you can work on the floor all the time. A desk would be far far better especially for your knees & back. I'd try a full factory reset 👍🏻
My dock was working today until i took it out to play on my bed then i wanted to play it docked on the tv and no signal rhe green light appears on dock but nothing even tried plugging it in the way the internet said and tried different hdmi cables can you help
You can tell this is an old MMV video, as he doesn’t even have any IPA!!!
I keep hearing you mention the pins on the switch unit aren’t reversible, that can’t be true. The reason the switch dock has a notch is so that the screen faces the front, and the vents would be sucking in through the hole in the back allowing proper air flow. If you think about it if the pins were not reversible you would only be able to charge the switch if the USB-C cable was facing one way but not the other. Just wanted to mention it you say it often through your videos.
Garrett yes, and very annoying.
Not necessarily, if the pins in the charging cable are also mirrored.
If the CPU can't see the video encoding chip (if it has one) that does HDCP (content protection) that is on the switch itself, it will not output video to the dock. My guess (without looking at schematics) is that you have two chips on the switch itself not being able to communicate. The nasty thing here is that there are circuit traces inside the circuit board (it has more layers than front and back) and those may have been damaged by bending. If you know which pins on which chips should be connected for this hdcp you could measure if the pcb is still okay or if the trace inside is broken. The typical fix for such a thing is to actually micro solder a wire between the two points that need to be connected. Louis Rossmann shows how to do that in many of his videos.
OK, I never knew that more traces were sandwiched inside the board. I thought it was just top and bottom. So if I knew the faulty trace then I could bridge the points with a jumper wire. I think it is probably time to give up on this Switch as I will not be able to check that. Do you know if it is possible to have multiple layers inside the circuit boards or is it just top, middle and bottom (not on the Switch but other devices).
Thanks, Vince :-)
Circuit boards can have many layers. Don't know if there is a manufacturing maximum.
Get a soldering microscope to see the motherboard better and is a good add to your tools you fix stuffs
Two and four layer boards are common. Though I have seen 8 later boards as well. As a check, I would look up the chips around the bend and find their power and ground pins. Then test them for power and ground.
A two layer board is top and bottom.
A four layer board is normally top, bottom, power, and ground.
I’m having this problem
My switch when its put into the dock shows the green light but doesn’t go onto the tv. Sometimes it goes onto the tv but only for about 5 seconds to 2 minutes. Please let me know what to do
I had that same problem, but mine was Not even charging, When I checked the charging port I saw a very bent pin, with a tiny stick i putted it back and It started charging, but no image on tv. I saw another bent pin and when I putted it back in the Right spor it was perfect, it sabes my quarentine
Tell me if it works
IM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM
@@matecarto my pin was not bent and i still have the problem. is there anything else you did to try to fix this
Boyman And fam check them again and gently try to put them in their position if you see something out of place. Make sure there is no dust or some shit in there
I have one with the exact same problem of not outputting and also having the setting stuck to 480p. And the device had also been bent pretty badly so it's likely the same thing
Vince, silly question, @50:27 , you see that PCB plugged, it's the acutal NAND of the console, why not trying exchanging them ? the bricked one on the other one and vice versa, just sayin, maybe will not work but shoudl worth the try
Hey there my mate Vince. I am sick in bed and your videos are really enjoyable. Thank you for these. I will support you!
Me too
there does seem to be a thread on the nintendo forums about some switches having a bug , where they are stuck on 480p not sure if it relevent to this repair !
There is no such thing as 480p HD.
720 is the minimum to be considered HD as per broadcast standards with 480 and 576i being the US and PAL standard definition (SD) respectively.
I had my switch docked with a 5:4 monitor with SXGA resolution which is more than 480p and i was using an hdmi to dvi adapter and version 4.0 and it showed automatic and 480p as the only available options but despite my monitor supporting resolutions above 720p in both automatic and 480p it only displayed in 480p(stretched due to 5:4 aspect ratio) and then i searched about it and i found out it was a common issue with dvi monitors on 4.0 not displaying more than 480p and then i updated the firmware to 5.1 and it still showed automatic and 480p but on automatic it was displaying stretched 720p and when undocked it still "remembered" 480p and automatic as the only options so it seems that it's an issue with firmware 4.0 that only 480p and automatic are available that does not get fixed if the firmware is updated but won't happen if the same was done in 5.1. It's weird but it's definitely a software issue
Love ur vids Vince, all credit to you for having a go..
You can use the thermal paste on all of the heat sink.
Even if you can't fully fix the bent Switch, it does still have some use value as a handheld, great as a travel Switch, keep the fully working one at home.
I really do think it's a broken trace or two (and maybe a ground plane) ... that was a pretty serious bend and copper traces aren't that thick.
I can find instances of devices restricting themselves to 480p on google... seems to be cables that aren't up to snuff. That leads me to believe the traces that send the hdmi signals are damaged, and the switch is acting like it has a bad hdmi cable attached.
I'd just replace the board, hard to tell what other damage hasn't made itself evident yet... God forbid the charging regulation circuitry.
Seems that a lot of people had the problem with the stuck resolution on working switches after software updating to 4.0. Possibly still a software problem?
Man dual layer PCB's are a pain in the arse. looks impossible to change out any chips when you cant get to traces on other side of board. Pretty much have to replace the whole PCB.
They are 2 different kinds of thermal grease, likely applied during 2 different stages of assembly, the copper/gold silicone ones are fairly cheap to buy in bulk (you can get a peanut butter sized tub for 20$ on amazon) as opposed to the compound you replaced between the heat sink and heat spreader which is more expensive.
Why can't I stop watching these videos, just bought a goosed xbox off eBay because of this guy
try a factory reset to rule out any software issues. on the hardware side.. one of the IC chips you pointed to is a multiplexer (PI3USB30532) which takes Many signals and outputs to a few outputs and it is specifically for USB Type C to output and communicate with external devices... that would be my first guess www.diodes.com/pericom-part-files/PI3USB30532/Application%20information/PI3USB30532-PI3USB31532_App_Type-C%20application%20Note_Rev.A.pdf
www.mouser.com/images/microsites/usb-type-c-hdmi-f8.png (generic type-C)
specifically on the first link, look on page 9 of 18
At 19:02 and 19:37 looks to be some oxidation on the board. Could mean poor connection or bad chips. Of course finding out what those do for the system is the hard part. A reflow may solve the problem after a proper cleanup of the oxidized crap. And if you can find some type of schematic and it is broken traces on the inner layer, jumper leads to get around those can be done.
That part with dad dad the switch is on fire! Was funny but it brings up a good point. It seems it worked fine and I'm used to loud fans on consoles playing with a ps4 pro aka the aircraft carrier in Texas summer but I'm glad he was aware something was different. Also with thermal paste anytime I can I replace the paste because I heard it dries out but honestly I havent replaced my CPU paste in years and I used to do it regularly so who knows. If you do a giveaway give it to someone who cant afford it and would really appreciate it that would be the best gift. I dont know how you can determine but you can figure it out.
Hey this helped me but only briefly. Using a small plastic prying tool, I wiggled it around the USB-C port on the switch. Then I tried bending very gently the small metal connector inside the port. That made my switch work when docked, but only for a few minutes. I managed to replicate this result by > undocking > putting it in sleep mode > repeating the wiggling with the prying tool > docking > waking the console with the joycons detached. I noticed moving the console even slightly made my picture go away on the TV. Hope this helps figure out what the issue is.
for the giveaway the fairest way is to just choose a random name, any sort of quiz is just going to come down to who can google the answer quickest and while trying to get it to someone who maybe would appreciate it more, like someone younger or with less money is a great idea it's just going to end up with everyone saying they're actually a 7yr old who's never had any game console or even seen one in their life and you won't know who to believe. i seem to remember there's a site or possibly a feature on youtube for uploaders designed specifically to pick a random comment.
Just a tip. Always add fresh solder to make the job a million times easier to remove and to put the new component on there.
Well, damn! Might as well super glue the Joycons on and use it as a portable!
I would check the Pericom matrix switch. its located between the Realtek chip and the USB-C port. this chip switches USB3.0 and DP1.2 signals when you plugin your USB-C cable.
That's the one he tried to reflow. Although I don't think he used a high enough temperature. And it wouldn't help if the chip is dead anyway.
Great video again vince and nice fix on the connector ive done a couple not a easy job regards too the dock not switching to hdmi i think the pi3usb30532 ic maybe at fault not sure how easy it would be too swap one though
Thanks fellow Vince, I was really pleased with the connector :-) Apparently the Switch has traces sandwiched inside the top and bottom layers on the circuit board so maybe one of these have a hairline break on it. I don't think I will risk replacing that pi chip as I wouldn't be confident with that at the mo :-)
Thanks for the views and comments :-)
Totally agree not everyone uses the docking station anyway, as long as it charges etc its still usable handheld console so you would be able to re sell if you wanted too.Multi layer pcbs Most applications require between four and eight layers, though applications like mobile devices and smartphones tend to use around twelve layers from what i have read on the internet.This is the microscope i will get when funds allow a lot of mobile phone repair guys started with one of these www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AmScope-10X-20X-LED-Binocular-Stereo-Microscope-Boom-Arm-LED-Gooseneck/400429192095
I have a switch with the same issue. Also it's not able to connect to via USB in RCM mode. I checked resistance to GND on the USB Data lines, one has 30k the other a few Mega Ohm... so it seems like the usb controller is busted. Bad thing is, the usb data lines are directly connected to the APU :/ did you ever check if RCM/USB works for that console?
I recently just got my Switch which I ordered 1 week ago and watched your videos as I find them quite entertaining. Not sure if you still read comments on older videos but I noticed before I put the Switch in the dock, it would also only show Automatic and 480p as the only options. Hope this information helps in some way.
Hi Vince,
A complete Factory Reset should cure your issue, and it's an issue a few others have had, and cured having the issues with docking.
It is software related, and should be cured with a reset.
Hope this helps
Agreed, but I did a search and for some people reset didn't work.
www.nintendolife.com/forums/nintendo-switch/tv_resolution_is_stuck_at_480p_after_update_4_0_0
Hi Vince,
You may have a software and hardware issue but more likely software. Work on software first.
I also watch a channel that you may find interesting. He builds his own iPhone from parts he finds in electronic markets in China. Have a look at all vids but the link is specifically for building iPhone 6S 16GB. A series of videos. ua-cam.com/video/leFuF-zoVzA/v-deo.html
If that didn't get you hooked on his channel this video will.
Bringing BACK The iPhone Headphone Jack - in China
ua-cam.com/video/utfbE3_uAMA/v-deo.html
It's not docking also, that points to a Hardware fault not software. Any Switch can dock with 480 resolution. This one can't and doesn't output image, so it has some hardware problem, most likely some cut trace or break in some lines (or can be some ic).
Jason Birch I
Just did a leg transplant due to a scrape on the thy. Now they tell me a plaster would have fixed it.
Just disassembled a switch to repair the dock fault. Now they tell me a factory reset would have fixed it.
Sound familiar XD
Ps: Love your videos
I love this stuff, great content vince!
I think this is a software issue as well! Allthough unlikely, something may have gone wrong during the installation. And maybe the switch didn't register all the components in the os for the output properly? I suggest you try to reinstall the switch from the memory stick. Just to make sure...
Some info that might be useful for you about graphics processors... The graphics processor will likely be rendering at an constant internal resolution either way. And the resolution options is just a matter of scaling the image. Which should be no issue, with it rendering in the first place.
I know this is an old video but this information might be useful to you if you still have the switch. When I had this issue I sent it into nintendo who said the fault lied in a faulty charging pin so I'm guessing if you just changed the port it might work otherwise send it into be fixed for £53.50
It's highly likely the docking issue is down to the power ic being shorted on the higher voltage detection. Ie 5v will work but not the 15v mode. Replace that ic and it should resolve.
Btw I just have a little tip the reason why the Nintendo switch only docks one way or facing one way is so the fans in the back of the switch can work it has nothing to do with the usb c port all it has to do with is the fan. It likes a safety thing so people or children work put the fan holes dead against the dock making it so it can't breath. That's why the switch only gos one way in the dock so the holes foe the fan matches up with the little holes on the back of the dock. Hope this helps
That helps a lot. Thanks for the info :-)
14:49 the usb-c port is bent
When docked the console lcd blacks out so that would suggest the console knows that it is docked and not just connected to a charger. It is at least attempting to output video via the usbc to the HDMI port but of course we could see that no signal is produced.
It seemed logical in believing that if there was continuity between the motherboard pins and the bare wires then there is continuity and the pins have not lifted from the motherboard.
Howeve while checking continuity you noticed that a lot of the pins were grounded.
The switch probably detects this and is causing it to only show 480p in settings and not able to output a signal.
Check to see whether if any pins are bent or messed up internally and grounded to the shielding or other ground pins.
The incorrectly grounded pins might have coincidentally caused it to believe that the TV is reporting that it supports 480p only, even when nothing is connected. Possibly the console uses other pins to detect it is docked.
I'm pretty sure the red paste is just another version of what you have. You can use MX-2 to replace that stuff too.
Hi, I also have a Switch where the docking mode don't works. In my frustration I've tried to put my freezer. When the Switch reached a Temperature under 5°C and I put it in the dock its outputting a signal. When it reached a Temperature about 30°C then its stopping outputting a signal. That's very wired... Maybe you also want to try it with your switch. Thanks, have a great day.
PS: Don't forget the switch in the freezer...😅
My switch just randomly started showing only Automatic and 420p. Its display on my tv in dock mode BUT its only display 420p. I saw another vid on UA-cam where they replaced the P13USB chip and the TV output finally showed all the resolution options again
I need some help...
I have a problem with UA-cam resolution on my Switch when docked... it seems to just do 480p but I have my device and app on '1080p'...
I've got two hdmi cables and one supports 4k... my TV only does 1080p... and yes I bought the 4k cable (amazon basics) because my provided cable was showing JUST UA-cam in 360p... also my TV does the same thing with smart view... I'm confused if my TV is the problem since its HDR and brand new.... and note that the interface for UA-cam looks 1080p but the video is poor quality... even worse with smart view from phone to TV (I use Samsung S9+)
Thats weird, only 480p? This surely is Software related, try a facrory reset
The exact thing happened to me. The last time I went to turn my switch off it was just not going in right like I put it in the green light went off for a second and then I turned off I dont know how this happened but i'm watching this so I can fix my nintendo switch
Have you fixed it
The problem I have with a bent switch the most is that I can’t insert a microDS to get extra storage for my switch, so I’m using 5 books on top of the switch to get the unbent, hope this helps, if not then looks like I won’t be getting extra storage anytime soon…
Read full professional comment! Never exeed 330C it will burn everthing ... if you want use more air and put small nozle on small things (always put a nozle near size of element you try to desolder). The actual temperature of melting the solder is 187C and also there is one on 223C. The board will not start from 200C instantly ... it will heat until reaches 230C and everything will start flow, when you heat board with 330C everything kind of setle before it reaches solder melting temperature, if you hit it with high temp (above 350C) fast from begining you stress the board and can cause peel tracks or internal cracks in chips and you begin to bake the PCB. NEVER HIT THE PCB WITH HIGH TEMP RAPIDLY and ALWAYS PREHEAT to about 100-140C BEFORE START TO MELT SOLDER ON IT! Always spread termal paste evenly on needed surface ... don't listen to people who put a dot in centre (this always left edges uncovered and its not a beter way) and you must put a thin layer of it. Acording to laws of thermodynamics everything i said is true and tested. I am electronics engeneer and repair service from more than 25 years. The pink thermal paste is coper while the grey MX2 is based on silver the white one is nonconductive silicon thermal paste
7:20 the small picture issue is caused by tv settings each output has diffrent settings you might want to change it
Gabrielo (darkspongebob11) he set the other switch to 480p and it was still a larger screen.
it was the chance of input on the tv not him charge ing the switch / dock / cable
Gabrielo (darkspongebob11) right! I forgot he used the other dock. Im sorry. Goid point.
not only did he use the other dock more importantly he also changed the tv input to match
I was wondering if somebody could help me... Ok, So My Nintendo switch's charger bent (My fault because I put too much pressure on the Adapter.) And so I've been trying to bend it back into place. But, It has come to no prevail, I was wondering if somebody could possibly help me. If you cannot I'm honestly fine with that because then I can result to buying a new switch charger, But I'd like to try and fix my CURRENT Switch charger.
Holy Yevon this fixed my issue with my switch stuck at 480p. I unlocked it then changed the setting to 1080p then docked it. BAM! no its docked at 1080p 😭 Thank you good sir 💚
Vince the Prince, love the videos bud.
I was having this same problem. No shorts, but it would not display on TV (dock works fine). I did a reflow on the p13USB chip (on the back of the motherboard) and it worked flawless for me. Hope this helps anyone in the future
I’m glad I found your video don’t know where else to go, I just bought a switch OLED and when I go to screen resolution my only option is 480p?? What should I do?
Just found your channel, thank you for your time, especially explaining things efficient,
I switch my p13usb chip and it still didn't work. My settings stayed at 480p but I do not have a dock lol I will get a dock to see if anything changes. I'm confident I did the repair correctly I have prior experience from fixing phones on the board level from 2013 to 2017 I have all the equipment too
Since you reset the switch it never has been docked again.
Until the switch get's docked it will only display 480p.
Once you get it docked that will change.
So it just saying 480 means nothing and will resolve itself when docked
I went on browsing looking for a solution, I found a few videos.
ua-cam.com/video/lZpX8Xfy2-c/v-deo.html this one probably wont work as you probably already tried that.
On this one the comment section is the interesting one ua-cam.com/video/BzPBa9eFmXI/v-deo.html Basically all comments have different solutions, I'd take an hour to go through all of them
I find this comment the most interesting,
It was posted by Chuck silver
This exact same thing that happened to you happened to me today but luckily I managed to fix it. This is what I did:
1) I unplugged the HDMI and power cables from the dock
2) I completely closed Zelda: Breath of the Wild that I had on stand by
3) I opened the game with the lowest memory consumption I have (Metal Slug 3)
4) I put the Switch on sleep mode
5) I plugged the power cable and the HDMI cable (in that order) back to the dock
6) I put back the Switch into the dock
7) I turned the Switch on... and that's it. My Switch started to work again.
It could also be possible the owner used a bad 3rd party dock, that might have caused the issues. I don't know whether I am blind or something I see that some pins on the USB C don't look to good but I am probably wrong, if I am honest.
I hope this helps somehow, I'd also try to see if it's a software problem.
I would have been quite content if I even owned a switch a broken one nonetheless
average monthly salary over here is 17,000,000 Rials while a Switch cost around 5,999,999
even if I don't pay bills and utilities and don't spend a single dime I would still take 4 month till I can actually buy one and the saddest part is ...the prices are skyrocketing due to sanction and inflation . just yesterday day the price of a switch was 4,500,000 ...
At this rate i'll be struggling to buy essential items just to survive let alone luxurious items such as consoles :(
Great videos and very entertaining, more of them please! About the Switch that only displays 480p, here is a video about it and how to fix it: ua-cam.com/video/xF4giWFsR70/v-deo.html
Greetings from Germany!
The switch only shows the TV output settings supported by the last TV it was docked to (as I've just seen previously mentioned by C4DSama). My switch will happily connect to 1080p screens and show the option, but after docking to my 720p TV the option to force 1080p is removed from the list until docking to a different display (presumably to stop someone setting it too high, since there is no confirmation dialogue that the setting worked). This would show that the switch is not properly detecting your TV to set up the output correctly, and could still be caused by bent data pins, software, a damaged chip, or really a number of things. Hopefully this narrows down the search!
I had this issue too on once I was repairing, the plastic around the usb port was ever so slightly warped so when I docked it, the green light went on and it charged but no display, it would sometimes recognise it but still no display. Figured the plastic was creating a little push since it wouldn't slot in nicely and the switches seem to be quite finicky getting them to dock if you happen to move it ever so slightly when seating it.
I cut the plastic away and now it docks without issues.
Also good to check P13USB and the bottom pins towards the filters near the usb side, each pin should head towards the other side of the filter and can be checked with continuity. If one filter is bad there can be a cross over where both pins go to both ends of the filter. Replace it and you're good to go.
EDIT: By filters I mean the square black components under the caps under P13USB that have 4 connections to them. Any docking issues, if the USB C port is good, will probably revolve around that chip and subsequent components.
i have this exact problem with a brand new out the box switch SSBU edition, tried to factory reset though it where clean out the factory already and it didn't work.. plzzzz help!!!!
I brought tloz bow about 1.5 years. But, I have no switch to play it and my son is very interesting for one Xmas. I couldn't get one for him last year. He is 13 and special child who love video games.
I think your attempt at a repair probably would have been successful if you had a better hot air station, heating things hotter and faster does less damage to the components then slow and lower temp. The Quick861DW seems really good for pretty inexpensive, might be worth investing in it! :)
I’ve watched 3 mins about this! My Nintendo is bent. I bent it back a little bit I changed to 480px then plugged it in!! It worked and I could change resolution
hey bud! could i possibly buy the nondocking switch from ya??? ive been wanting one since before it was even released!!! its too expensive for me and my family to buy it new... even used we only save like $20. i would also pay shipping if you would be so awesome to sell it to me!!! also my birthday is tomorrow !!! sept 13th!
I have this same issue..I own 4 switches this is the only one that wont dock. Charges fine Is fully functioning. Displays all outputs..scratching my head.
Hello Vince, i don't know if you still own this switch, but i just repaired mine with similar behaviour. On mine it was the M92 chip that was not fully soldered, to do so, I used some solder paste applied with a toothpick on the 4 corners and melted it, then after removing the bridges, the switche finally docked and charged on both ways
If this was the switch with the broken side joy holders, this switch may have be hacked into for moding purposes? That could explain why the software is different for the output of HDMI
I work for a registered repair company based in the UK we repair laptops Nintendo switches kind of everything really, licensed of course. I'm going to be completely honest I've never ever seen this issue before or no one at the centre has ever raise this.
The chip making you switch between portable/docked mode is probably dead. Did you check if you could charge the switch while docked? And if yes what voltage is used?
I don't see any reason for it to be a software issue
Regarding the switch giveaway... I know a child that will be happy to win this faulty one... He's from a poor family and is always talking about nintendo switch, he lives in brazil, fortaleza city, let me know if you would interest to give this one to the little kid. I could pay the costs with shipment.
hey buddy checkout xbox experts vids regarding hard mod (trinket m0) modchip. i think you will enjoy viewing his vids. and sterling work brotha👊
Uh, I just bought Nintendo Switch and I'm dealing with this problem right now D:
you don't need to cut cable, just use 2 needles for probes ... poor cable ... the problem is not even in connections rather than PCB (i think the problem is under metal cap) or software bug
hi vince,
I like your nintendo switch Episodes, hoping you can fix a few not docking.
here is some information that i found on this problem,
They had me unplug all the cables from the dock, as well as the adapter from the wall and wait a full minute. I replugged everything in, and bam, it worked. Since I have two other docks I haven’t played around with it too much, but the Nintendo tech said that the adapter has a little breaker in it that can only be reset by removing it from the wall and letting it power cycle.they said they
repaired a connection in the Switch itself.
hahah the tea towel workbench and the baking tray cracked me up ;) You have to improvise eh! Enjoyed :D
Wait so some times if you use a 3rd party dock it may lock it to 480p and if you use the switch dock it will unlock the 720p and 1080p
Could it be it's not receiving the signal telling it is attached to a TV and for it to send the signal out because there is a loop situation it has to get the signal from the HDMI telling the system that it's connected to your TV and then it sends a signal back to the TV displaying what's on the device