I create safety borders around the entire stippled area using foil tape. this keeps all my lines perfectly straight and also protects the gun in the event that I make a mistake and get outside of the intended area. The foil tape that I use is the foil tape that HVAC installers use when installing 14 inch ducting in the ceiling or wherever the ducting might be...it's super sticky so it won't ever come off unintentionally which is important for this type of work because other types of tape either don't stick well enough due to the porous surface which is a lot of the time also slightly oily from hand oils or gun lubes which makes it hard to stick to. It takes some work to tape the entire gun but I think of it like prep work when painting a house which also takes time upfront but allows you to move quicker and more accurately once you get going. And it's really great for cutting shapes if you have any hard to reach areas you want to stipple.
Great video. Thank you. It's funny because I thought I was special lol. I haven't learned how to do recessed borders yet so I've been using that exact same tip to burn my borders. And up until now, I've never seen or heard anybody say they burn their borders in. But now I learned how to use that same method with the recessed border. I think that's awesome that it creates a barrier between your stipple and border. Thanks again and sup Damer lol
Awesome videos brother, I just binged watched a good handful of your videos and its given me confidence to try this out. Hope everything is well on your side of life, keep up the excellent content, advice and tips on stippling and frame work. 💯🙌🏽🍻
This is a cool method. Still can’t quite bring myself to actually stipple any of my guns so I’m still practicing on boxes and cases lol, but this looks like a cool method to try out for sure.
Bro, I completely understand, I wanna try on my G 26 gen 3 I’m thinking of buying a $50, p320 frame and practicing on that, that way I can learn sanding and making borderlines
Well just buy like 3 frames from Glockstore. Gen 3s so if you mess up, you can say you did that like 15 years ago or whatever. You were like 18 when you tried on that one!
Nice. I’ve done about a dozen for myself and friends but I’m still not confident. I have two more personal pieces I need to do. Thanks for the study opportunity.
Hey sir really complete and informative videos, I thank you very much for sharing your work. I’m just starting to practice on pieces of plastic. If you show me that I be so thankful. I like to see the beginning pencil lines and the strart whit the dremel 953. I’m Colombian and live in Argentina so if I brake my frame I won’t be able to buy another. They don’t sell frames here. So thanks a lot and greetings from the south.
Brad brother thank you soo much for sharing your tips and tricks that you use on the these frames. I’ve started to get into stippling for just myself and friends at the gun club. I’ve done Gunsmithing and Cerakoting for a while now to make some extra cash around the house after my wife passed away a couple years back. Your tips and tricks will help me so very much and I can’t thank you enough. I know you’re a busy guy but I was wondering if I ever ran into a problem and needed some advice , would it be okay to message you? If not I totally understand and bro you’ve done a lot already with the videos you’ve already posted. Anyway bro you be safe out there and god bless my brother!
Brother you make this look easy- this is soooo hard to do - talented people always make it look easy- I’ve destroyed 4 frames trying to do this , I should have just sent you the frame and pay for the design lol 😂
So, I have decided that I would like to stipple my Shield 9, which is pretty slick. I have watched a couple of your videos so far and, first of all, thanks for the good content, well presented and good clear video. I think I can do a good basic job or this with a little practice, but I am wondering: In your experienced opinion, can a person ruin the integrity of the frame by stippling too aggressively? I mean, the polymer is made a certain thickness for a reason, and it seems like the stippling might affect that strength. But, stippling is pretty common, so....
Hello, first off great vid… quick question, about how long should stippling last? I see everyone taking about doing it but not really mentioning how long it will last. Does it start losing its pattern after handling for a long time. I’m getting ready to do my EDC and wanted to get an idea before getting it done. Thank you
Ive been looking at trying to find the rotor tool you use and I haven't been able to find it.. Is there a name for it that I can look it up under? I've only found the 35k rpm motor one..
If you’re getting polymer build it, it’s because you’re melting the polymer instead of cutting it. Turn your RPMs down to avoid the issue. You can use a small knife or something to get the build up off.
I got an old school Dremel set like your black one that goes to 30,000 that should work well right?!? Just gotta get few different tips and pick a color scheme about to order my side. Either FDE and black, Tungsten black and grey, or burnt bronze/copper and black. Any suggestions on color scheme that you think would be cool or people like best?
So I’ve got a question for you not sure if you can help me .. when I dry fire my battery goes back smoothly but when i put bullets in magazine sometimes it goes back into battery and sometimes it doesn’t why is that ? I’ve never fired it at all .. do I need to keep smoothing my rails out plus my plunger as well ? I’ve already have smooth it out but maybe I need to do it more ..thanks so much in advance
If the slide moves freely on the rails without any internals or barrel it’s bot a rail issue. Could be the plunger, could also be material in the channel. I remove everything from the channel until it’s flush with the rails just to be safe.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 what do you mean by BOT rails ? So I’ve already removed and cleaned out my channel the best I can .. it goes into battery most of the time when I rack it but sometimes it doesn’t and it’s just about a few centimeters from getting to battery when I have a loaded mag is there anything else I can do ? Also I’ve smoothed out my plunger pretty well do you think I should try to smooth it out some more ?
@@alexp6456 it was supposed to be Not lol if it moves freely on the rails without internals in the slide, the channel is clear, then it’s most likely the safety plunger.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thanks again for helping me with my build .. I have one last question for you .. during my functioning test when I pull the trigger and hold it down I don’t Hear my firing pin moving around is that normal ? I’ve read online that it should rattle but some people says it don’t rattle .. for some reason mines doesn’t rattle was just wondering if this is normal ?
Any chance you can help me. I have looked everyone and asked everyone for help with no luck. I just did my first P80 build and my issues is when I take off the slide and put it back on it will go 95 percent on then get stuck. I have to then pull the trigger forward while pushing the slide back for it to go on. I think it’s getting hung up on the safety plunger and I don’t know what to do
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thank you for the response. Since I have posted this I learned that I have a Gen 4 trigger in there that has the bump on the trigger hump. Could that be the issue or does it not matter?
@@Pewpewnation123 gen 4 parts will not work in a gen 3 frame properly. Polymer 80 makes gen 3 frames. Swap to a gen 3 trigger and you'll be good. Apex makes a great trigger system.
Hello I really like your videos. I have question about cutting boarders. Do you ever use like a v or carving tool like Micro Flex but Flexcut to start your board?
I create safety borders around the entire stippled area using foil tape. this keeps all my lines perfectly straight and also protects the gun in the event that I make a mistake and get outside of the intended area. The foil tape that I use is the foil tape that HVAC installers use when installing 14 inch ducting in the ceiling or wherever the ducting might be...it's super sticky so it won't ever come off unintentionally which is important for this type of work because other types of tape either don't stick well enough due to the porous surface which is a lot of the time also slightly oily from hand oils or gun lubes which makes it hard to stick to. It takes some work to tape the entire gun but I think of it like prep work when painting a house which also takes time upfront but allows you to move quicker and more accurately once you get going. And it's really great for cutting shapes if you have any hard to reach areas you want to stipple.
Do you have samples of your work?
I tattoo for a living and pulling towards yourself helps you pull long straight lines.
Idk why, but when drawing my lines are straighter when pushing away from myself
@@nef36 they can be easier towards you, but actually more straight pushing them out
Appreciate the detailed step-by-step recommendations. Glad I found your videos.
Awesome video..... that was confusing as hell when you kept calling that a micrometer...... thank god you showed the tool! It’s a Marathon Micromotor!
Great video. Thank you. It's funny because I thought I was special lol. I haven't learned how to do recessed borders yet so I've been using that exact same tip to burn my borders. And up until now, I've never seen or heard anybody say they burn their borders in. But now I learned how to use that same method with the recessed border. I think that's awesome that it creates a barrier between your stipple and border. Thanks again and sup Damer lol
Awesome videos brother, I just binged watched a good handful of your videos and its given me confidence to try this out. Hope everything is well on your side of life, keep up the excellent content, advice and tips on stippling and frame work. 💯🙌🏽🍻
Thank you for posting brother I appreciate it. It’s awesome to see the difference between other guys in the biz.
Absolutely man 🤘🏻
This is a cool method. Still can’t quite bring myself to actually stipple any of my guns so I’m still practicing on boxes and cases lol, but this looks like a cool method to try out for sure.
Bro, I completely understand, I wanna try on my G 26 gen 3 I’m thinking of buying a $50, p320 frame and practicing on that, that way I can learn sanding and making borderlines
Well just buy like 3 frames from Glockstore. Gen 3s so if you mess up, you can say you did that like 15 years ago or whatever. You were like 18 when you tried on that one!
Just learning to stipple. Your channel is awesome and has helped me a lot. Keep up the awesome content 🤘🏼
Thanks for the pro tips! Keep up the good work and stay safe. God bless brother
Thank you for making these videos!!! I’m listening/watching
Nice. I’ve done about a dozen for myself and friends but I’m still not confident. I have two more personal pieces I need to do. Thanks for the study opportunity.
Any time man! Hope it helps
Hey sir really complete and informative videos, I thank you very much for sharing your work. I’m just starting to practice on pieces of plastic. If you show me that I be so thankful. I like to see the beginning pencil lines and the strart whit the dremel 953.
I’m Colombian and live in Argentina so if I brake my frame I won’t be able to buy another. They don’t sell frames here.
So thanks a lot and greetings from the south.
You ARE appreciated my man!!
Brad brother thank you soo much for sharing your tips and tricks that you use on the these frames. I’ve started to get into stippling for just myself and friends at the gun club. I’ve done Gunsmithing and Cerakoting for a while now to make some extra cash around the house after my wife passed away a couple years back. Your tips and tricks will help me so very much and I can’t thank you enough. I know you’re a busy guy but I was wondering if I ever ran into a problem and needed some advice , would it be okay to message you? If not I totally understand and bro you’ve done a lot already with the videos you’ve already posted. Anyway bro you be safe out there and god bless my brother!
Brother you make this look easy- this is soooo hard to do - talented people always make it look easy- I’ve destroyed 4 frames trying to do this , I should have just sent you the frame and pay for the design lol 😂
I’ve had tons and tons of practice 🤓
So, I have decided that I would like to stipple my Shield 9, which is pretty slick. I have watched a couple of your videos so far and, first of all, thanks for the good content, well presented and good clear video. I think I can do a good basic job or this with a little practice, but I am wondering: In your experienced opinion, can a person ruin the integrity of the frame by stippling too aggressively? I mean, the polymer is made a certain thickness for a reason, and it seems like the stippling might affect that strength. But, stippling is pretty common, so....
Post more boss man!
Hello, first off great vid… quick question, about how long should stippling last? I see everyone taking about doing it but not really mentioning how long it will last. Does it start losing its pattern after handling for a long time. I’m getting ready to do my EDC and wanted to get an idea before getting it done. Thank you
Great info. man. Could you show some frame repair techniques to?
Awesome tips!! Thanks bro!! Curious when you're done stippling is there a process of burning the stippling?
I would like to know tip you used for the stipple pattern on this pistol
Hey brother great video! When you get the chance can you make a video doing gap borders or HD borders, thanks I appreciate it 🙏🏼
Great video Brad !!
🙏🏻🙏🏻
Have you ever used those flexcut carving tools? You have a great method works and looks great, but I really think you would like those bad boys
Thanks for video! Very informative
a true professional!
Ive been looking at trying to find the rotor tool you use and I haven't been able to find it.. Is there a name for it that I can look it up under? I've only found the 35k rpm motor one..
Do you actually cut the initial lines with the 953? If so do you lay it flat or straight down?
I hold it on its side so the edge of the flat part is what is cutting
@@gledhillcustoms4659 I’m learning so much from your channel! Thank You!
Do you have a method to clean the diamond tips when they start getting polymer caked into them?
If you’re getting polymer build it, it’s because you’re melting the polymer instead of cutting it. Turn your RPMs down to avoid the issue. You can use a small knife or something to get the build up off.
I got an old school Dremel set like your black one that goes to 30,000 that should work well right?!? Just gotta get few different tips and pick a color scheme about to order my side. Either FDE and black, Tungsten black and grey, or burnt bronze/copper and black. Any suggestions on color scheme that you think would be cool or people like best?
The burr shape you asked about is called a tree. The one you have is called a “pointed tree”.
Hey bro, just wanted to say thanks fro your vids. I was finally able to make a gun look good and not like a piece of shit lol
🤓👊🏻
I would love to have some of your work my strike frame! How do we get in touch with you? Do you have a website?
Great Video what is the tool you use for the grinding and finger cuts ?
found it thank you
Great job buddy 👍👍👍👍👍
🙏🏻🙏🏻
That burr that you call an egg, in Dentistry we call it a flame shaped burr. Great job!!
If one were to go through the frame and make a hole, how do you fill it in?
With the polymer you’ve shaved off the frame.
Tools List ?
I need that too sir!
Question, why is a flex shaft a must ?
Easier to hold and produce better results
Sir could you please show us how to burn in your borders
So I’ve got a question for you not sure if you can help me .. when I dry fire my battery goes back smoothly but when i put bullets in magazine sometimes it goes back into battery and sometimes it doesn’t why is that ? I’ve never fired it at all .. do I need to keep smoothing my rails out plus my plunger as well ? I’ve already have smooth it out but maybe I need to do it more ..thanks so much in advance
If the slide moves freely on the rails without any internals or barrel it’s bot a rail issue. Could be the plunger, could also be material in the channel. I remove everything from the channel until it’s flush with the rails just to be safe.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 what do you mean by BOT rails ? So I’ve already removed and cleaned out my channel the best I can .. it goes into battery most of the time when I rack it but sometimes it doesn’t and it’s just about a few centimeters from getting to battery when I have a loaded mag is there anything else I can do ? Also I’ve smoothed out my plunger pretty well do you think I should try to smooth it out some more ?
@@alexp6456 it was supposed to be Not lol if it moves freely on the rails without internals in the slide, the channel is clear, then it’s most likely the safety plunger.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thanks so much !!! I think I got it working smoothly ..
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thanks again for helping me with my build .. I have one last question for you .. during my functioning test when I pull the trigger and hold it down I don’t Hear my firing pin moving around is that normal ? I’ve read online that it should rattle but some people says it don’t rattle .. for some reason mines doesn’t rattle was just wondering if this is normal ?
Did you ever figure out what the “egg bit” is called or a dremel part number ?
Good stuff
Thanks RAM
Any chance you can help me. I have looked everyone and asked everyone for help with no luck. I just did my first P80 build and my issues is when I take off the slide and put it back on it will go 95 percent on then get stuck. I have to then pull the trigger forward while pushing the slide back for it to go on. I think it’s getting hung up on the safety plunger and I don’t know what to do
You should be able to look through the magwell from the bottom and see if the trigger fin is catching on the safety plunger
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thank you for the response. Since I have posted this I learned that I have a Gen 4 trigger in there that has the bump on the trigger hump. Could that be the issue or does it not matter?
@@Pewpewnation123 gen 4 parts will not work in a gen 3 frame properly. Polymer 80 makes gen 3 frames. Swap to a gen 3 trigger and you'll be good. Apex makes a great trigger system.
Did your micro motor come with a colet for 1/8 ?
No it was bought separately. They’re hard to come by now from what I hear. I upgraded machines shortly after this video was made
Where would I find the dremel tips you use?
OT Defense
Thank you for your experience on this ! What brand grinder do you use ? Thanks- Mark
Hey brother, can you check out the problem with my PF940C i posted?
I'm not sure if its a faulty locking block or barrel issue
Where’s it posted? You can send me pictures or videos through Facebook and I’ll check it out
Hello I really like your videos. I have question about cutting boarders. Do you ever use like a v or carving tool like Micro Flex but Flexcut to start your board?
I don’t. All of mine are done with my rotary tool.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 Ok thank you for the response
Yo...p80Ralph's got the same intro.. just slowed down..
There's tons of videos on how to do this on glock pistols and nothing else
Same process
Man I'd like to get your info to ask a few questions
Hit up the business account on Facebook 🤘🏻
Football bit!!!!!
Hz meter says your dremel is only 16k hz... but that's ok
I don’t run a Dremel, I run a foredom 1060. It’s 50k rpms
@@gledhillcustoms4659 Only at max speed-- you're not running it at max speed.
Un bambino avrebbe fatto di meglio
What a dirty job
Dirty hands clean money
this looked really bad bruh
what rotary tool do you use?