You got it, Rhys. The shims really are where it's at - we concluded that the 1mm specification for rear ride height is about the most important thing in the mix - if all of the cars on track are there, it really removes the fishtailing and makes everything work the way that we imagined the track ought to. Al has done everyone's cars one by one, and when you're used to your car and then it takes turns 30% better, it's an incredible and delightful difference. Do your car, kill everyone else, and then get them on board and everyone's stock will go up while the racing gets closer and more consistent. Thanks for the compliment!
Hi over there. You mentioned, you did not find a lot of clips about the issue. ? I must disagree with that, There are a lot of them. You may did not look for it good enough, or you did not watch German YT clips about it. We do have a lot about this issue. Actually, you don`t need a trueing-machine at all, if you do the board-method with the right care to it. Means you spend a lot of money for one of those machines in vain for carrera tire trueing. To save the digital-chip of the 1/32 models, you simply short-cut the motor with the guide-kiel connectors. If you use the board-method and use the full power of 14,8V, you will overheat the Motor, if you don`t take a break, means grind them in intevalls and let the Motor cool down. And don`t press the whole back of the Chassis down to heavy. It will cause the overheating faster and will destroy ti. Better is, to use 6V or maybe 9V for ginding it. One can build his own board to do so. But don`t use the Control Unit directly for that. Add a Straight before, or after the Control Unit if you do. That way you will prevent to get the fine dust into the Ctrl. Unit. You may get yourself an Evolution Ctrl. Unit, which is cheap and won`t harm the Digital Unit at all. I use an old Carrera Track Control Unit that ran smaller Carrera Cars, called Carrera Car Racing, which was powered with 12V. I use the Power-Supply cable and cut the cable of the Transformer. Soldered two plugs onto it and connect it with my Power-Supply I built in my Apprenticeship as Electrician, which is mandatory, if you do such an education over here. I can vary the Voltage to a healthy amount and tape the sanding-paper onto that old power unit of the Carrera Car Racing set. That works just fine. Your Method is way too laborious, with three hands plus the controller and what not. Just supply the power to the Track and let the Chassis do its thing at the power you connect it to. Simply take it of the rails to stop running it from overheating. One can even put tape onto the controller and let it run fully. Just remove it off the rails and good it is.To de-burr the tire edges, take a small finger-file. Your block is way too big and I would recommend to use the fine side of the file and stroke the inside about four times, not more and the outside about ten times for each tire. It depends though, how much you really want the outside edge to be round. Let the file run in a half-round movings directions over the edges. Do not let the Motor spin against the direction it was build for, running only forwards. If you run it against its natural direction, you will losen small parts of the coals, which will let the small pieces fly around inside the Motor and destroy it that way. 120, 220-240 and 400 grain is enough to true them. When using the 400, or in your case the 600 grain, you need to wet the either the tire, or the sand-paper to polish them. But only a bit wet, not soaking wet. 400 is for Carrera tires good enough. On other tires you go can up to 8.000 grain sand-paper, if you run more serious in a racing club, by the way. The new rims of the new Carrera Cars simply do suck, because the outside rings and the inside rings of the rims are differnet in diameter! The inner ring is smaller. Means the tires won`t run flat on the surface. All new models and even the 1/24`s have the same issue. Therefore you better remove the whole axxles and replace them with a kit by slot it, or else of the aftermarket. I would recomend that any way, because most axxles and the rims glued onto it will not run concentric at all. Lucky, if you ever get one that runs concentric. Those things are massproduction items and Carrera is considered as a toy. Keep that in mind. Pleas Note: I did not mean to attack you. I am not perfect. Neither are you. So lets meet in the middle of the atlantic and save each other from drowning. Every road leads to Rome, we have a saying over here . Means there are different ways and approaches to get to the goal. Have fun racing and keep it in the slot. 🙂
You are SO right about the new Carrera rims. This seems to have thrown the aftermarket tire vendors for a loop, and slowed down the release of tires for new cars. I've been 3D printing spacers that glue to the rims so they work with standard tires.
Yes we are racing this Saturday 10-2 as usual. New people welcome. imperialist1960 - a t - yaho-oo for logistics data We are likely to fold up for the season on or before Haloween, back at it Easter+ next year.
Just found your channel. Great Info. As I move into 1/32 Carrera I will need all the info I can get. I'm Super Green
I wanted to hear it sing.
G'day mate very helpful on the try turning thank you
You got it, Rhys. The shims really are where it's at - we concluded that the 1mm specification for rear ride height is about the most important thing in the mix - if all of the cars on track are there, it really removes the fishtailing and makes everything work the way that we imagined the track ought to. Al has done everyone's cars one by one, and when you're used to your car and then it takes turns 30% better, it's an incredible and delightful difference. Do your car, kill everyone else, and then get them on board and everyone's stock will go up while the racing gets closer and more consistent.
Thanks for the compliment!
Hi over there. You mentioned, you did not find a lot of clips about the issue. ? I must disagree with that, There are a lot of them. You may did not look for it good enough, or you did not watch German YT clips about it. We do have a lot about this issue. Actually, you don`t need a trueing-machine at all, if you do the board-method with the right care to it. Means you spend a lot of money for one of those machines in vain for carrera tire trueing. To save the digital-chip of the 1/32 models, you simply short-cut the motor with the guide-kiel connectors. If you use the board-method and use the full power of 14,8V, you will overheat the Motor, if you don`t take a break, means grind them in intevalls and let the Motor cool down. And don`t press the whole back of the Chassis down to heavy. It will cause the overheating faster and will destroy ti. Better is, to use 6V or maybe 9V for ginding it. One can build his own board to do so. But don`t use the Control Unit directly for that. Add a Straight before, or after the Control Unit if you do. That way you will prevent to get the fine dust into the Ctrl. Unit. You may get yourself an Evolution Ctrl. Unit, which is cheap and won`t harm the Digital Unit at all. I use an old Carrera Track Control Unit that ran smaller Carrera Cars, called Carrera Car Racing, which was powered with 12V. I use the Power-Supply cable and cut the cable of the Transformer. Soldered two plugs onto it and connect it with my Power-Supply I built in my Apprenticeship as Electrician, which is mandatory, if you do such an education over here. I can vary the Voltage to a healthy amount and tape the sanding-paper onto that old power unit of the Carrera Car Racing set. That works just fine. Your Method is way too laborious, with three hands plus the controller and what not. Just supply the power to the Track and let the Chassis do its thing at the power you connect it to. Simply take it of the rails to stop running it from overheating. One can even put tape onto the controller and let it run fully. Just remove it off the rails and good it is.To de-burr the tire edges, take a small finger-file. Your block is way too big and I would recommend to use the fine side of the file and stroke the inside about four times, not more and the outside about ten times for each tire. It depends though, how much you really want the outside edge to be round. Let the file run in a half-round movings directions over the edges.
Do not let the Motor spin against the direction it was build for, running only forwards. If you run it against its natural direction, you will losen small parts of the coals, which will let the small pieces fly around inside the Motor and destroy it that way.
120, 220-240 and 400 grain is enough to true them. When using the 400, or in your case the 600 grain, you need to wet the either the tire, or the sand-paper to polish them. But only a bit wet, not soaking wet. 400 is for Carrera tires good enough. On other tires you go can up to 8.000 grain sand-paper, if you run more serious in a racing club, by the way.
The new rims of the new Carrera Cars simply do suck, because the outside rings and the inside rings of the rims are differnet in diameter! The inner ring is smaller. Means the tires won`t run flat on the surface. All new models and even the 1/24`s have the same issue. Therefore you better remove the whole axxles and replace them with a kit by slot it, or else of the aftermarket. I would recomend that any way, because most axxles and the rims glued onto it will not run concentric at all. Lucky, if you ever get one that runs concentric. Those things are massproduction items and Carrera is considered as a toy. Keep that in mind.
Pleas Note: I did not mean to attack you. I am not perfect. Neither are you. So lets meet in the middle of the atlantic and save each other from drowning.
Every road leads to Rome, we have a saying over here . Means there are different ways and approaches to get to the goal.
Have fun racing and keep it in the slot. 🙂
words to live by
You are SO right about the new Carrera rims. This seems to have thrown the aftermarket tire vendors for a loop, and slowed down the release of tires for new cars. I've been 3D printing spacers that glue to the rims so they work with standard tires.
Are you racing this weekend? I want to come down (from Sacramento) and race with you guys and do a video for my UA-cam channel (NorCal Slotcar Scene).
Yes we are racing this Saturday 10-2 as usual. New people welcome.
imperialist1960
- a t -
yaho-oo for logistics data
We are likely to fold up for the season on or before Haloween, back at it Easter+ next year.
@@EBSCC can I get the location info?
@@EBSCC just sent you an e-mail with my contact info
@@EBSCCAwesome bit of hospitality! Now I have another YT vid to watch… I hope! :)