@@TheBoatRambler That is the great thing about the Goat Island Skiff group on facebook. Very clever people each extending each other's ideas. But I think you have the crown as the chief explainer! This video will help so many people!
@@TheBoatRambler I've been sharing this video high and low. It is a fantastic resource. Sometimes it takes a while for all the details to sink in. The idea of having a knot in the downhaul to set the maximum height for rehoisting the sail is a really cool refinement.
@ Michael Storer Thank you!! I think that the lowering of the CoE is just as important as sail reduction on the GIS. No scientific measurements done tho.... 😅
I am looking at this again. There are actually so many details on setting up a lug for efficient sailing as well as a bonus. Lots of tips there. Also demonstrating the efficient use of the downhaul - the most important sail control on the boat.
I think you explain things well as I can always understand them 1st go.... I also like the relevance of your video's, I find them interesting and informative.
Thanks Teo - I'm setting up my rigging this week so this is very timely for organising my reefing. Enjoy your brothers wedding! (PS weddings here now restricted to only 15 guests, I hope you're allowed more than that - stay safe!)
Thanks Steve! Hope it helps you in some way and although I've been using this setup for a few weeks now, please take in consideration that it is still my first season with the GIS so everything is experimental! 😉
I'd like to see a bit of detail of how things are attached. I have a Peapod I'm trying to rig up. Yours seems to be the most relevant and most simple. Great job. I'm really enjoying your videos.
Hi John! Have you seen one of my videos "Lug Sail Rigging"? I take it all apart at Rat Island and re-rig it. Hope it helps. If not, just leave you doubts on the comment section on that video! 😉
Teo, regarding the loop on the luff to fix it to boom: how does it not slip aft when you tighten outhaul. I use a Stainless reefing hook up there and it is very quick and certain. I'd like to eliminate that hook, but not sure about what would keep the luff loop in place and not slip. What about using a carbiner or Joost's idea of a clip?
Hi Clint! The loop at the reef tack is just big enough to fit the boom once the outhaul is released. When I pull the outhaul tight again the loop wont go past the previously fixed tack cringle and its tie. Also the bleater is right there and it's wrapped around the boom, again this would also prevent the reef loop from sliding aft. you can see this better at 0:25 on the video. Hope it makes sense...
It's good to see your progress, but in a sudden gale and pitching sea I wouldn't want to be wrestling with trying to get loops in place over the end of the boom. Running reefing lines are much easier and safer.
@@TheBoatRambler Very good point. Myself I only have one deep reef. I don't race so if I need to reef, I REEF. But if you want multiple reefs, just setup the runnung lines on the last reef as the safest and quickest reef in the worst conditions.
Again,fantastic video,Can you explain in detail how you have your downhaul set up. I'm new to sailing and building my own boat,so I'm a bit slow on the purchase set ups,if you could explain it would be great.
Thanks! The mid reef ties (there are actually 3 on my sail) are not tied to the boom on a loose foot sail because if you do the foot of the sail will be forced straight along the boom and you will loose the curvature at the bottom of the sail and the ability to control sail depth. That curvature/depth on the foot of the sail is what makes loose foot sails more powerful than a sail which is tied to the boom. Also the reef cringles are placed on a very small reinforcement patch, I'm afraid it would be easier to rip the sail since they are not meant to be tied to the boom.
Nice rigging dude! I'm just beginning my setup on my lug sail and wanted to ask about rope types and thickness you are using please? So many different types of rope online now! Could you tell me about rope types and thickness you are using for uphaul, downhaul, outhaul and mainsheet? Many thanks!
Hi Shane! let me see if I can remember... -Halyard, 5mm Spectra with outer polly,(really important to not have any stretch on the halyard.) -Outhaul, are just common single braided 4mm poly rope. -Downhaul, double braided 4mm poly rope -Bleater, 5mm spectra -Mainsheet, 8mm Kingfisher -Spectra loops, 3mm Spectra -Boom blocks loops, 4mm double braided Poly Check out the new rigging videos: ua-cam.com/video/BCu8200sygg/v-deo.html have fun 😉
Thanks! Make sure to check the sail area centers (original sail plan against the lug sail) and compare to see what you can do about it, otherwise you might end up with some leehelm. Although I'm not sure how it plays out on a multihull...
Great. Thanks for this. Keep up the good work. I wonder if the sail can be reefed without dropping it beyond the reef point by hauling in on a second outhaul, cleating that off and relying on the lazyjacks to take care of the redundant sail area? I appreciate that the clew will not be pulled down close to the boom - but does that really matter? Reefing would be quicker doing it that way. Second question - do you have any thoughts on setting the length of the bleater? Presumably too long gives lee helm and vice versa. Did you experiment or get it right by luck? Third question - what are you using for chafe protection on the carbon boom: a cord whipping?
Thank you! It probably could, if I had a rope secured to the front end of the boom, through the reef tack and back down trough a small block or eye and led all the way back ... 🤔
Sorry didn't see second and third questions!! I got the Bleater length through trial and error. (not sure it's right now that I've replaced it by Spectra...) And yes I use a cord whipping as anti-chafe. 😉
length of bleater makes surprisingly little difference. 70mm makes no discernable difference in helm. Perhaps the top of the sail is moving forward as the boom moves back ... it it doesn't matter much with lugs. The helm on the GIS is very light and doesn't change as the boat heels - unlike most other transom sterned boats so that could be a factor too. Might be more important with boats with less balanced helm upright and when heeled.
As far as having loose sail area between the reef and the boom ... the most important rope apart from the outhaul is the loop from the reef eye in the clew around the boom to keep the clew reef eye close to the boom. If the boom drops away from the effective edge of the sail it will always pull the outhaul tight which overflattens the bottom of the sail and makes the boat hard to get upwind. You need good sail depth in the foot to keep power in strong or choppy conditions as the top of the sail twists off to depower. All that is pushing the boat along is the bottom of the sail ... too flat and lose too much drive. The loop from the clew reef eye arond the boom is critical.
Great Presentation. Great work building on Joost's idea of using fixed length loops and caribiners.
Thanks Michael!
Joost's idea was the basis for all this setup. 😉
@@TheBoatRambler That is the great thing about the Goat Island Skiff group on facebook. Very clever people each extending each other's ideas. But I think you have the crown as the chief explainer! This video will help so many people!
@@TheBoatRambler I've been sharing this video high and low. It is a fantastic resource. Sometimes it takes a while for all the details to sink in. The idea of having a knot in the downhaul to set the maximum height for rehoisting the sail is a really cool refinement.
@ Michael Storer Thank you!!
I think that the lowering of the CoE is just as important as sail reduction on the GIS. No scientific measurements done tho.... 😅
@@TheBoatRambler Makes total sense. Area x lever arm. The lever arm is from the centre of the sail to the centre of the centreboard.
Great summary. I love the idea of just a loop for the new tack! Keep up the fantastic videos.
Thanks Mark!
The loop is working great so far. Let's see with time how reliable it is! 😉
I am looking at this again. There are actually so many details on setting up a lug for efficient sailing as well as a bonus. Lots of tips there. Also demonstrating the efficient use of the downhaul - the most important sail control on the boat.
Hi Michael!
Any link to the article?
I think you explain things well as I can always understand them 1st go.... I also like the relevance of your video's, I find them interesting and informative.
Thank you! 🙂
Thanks Teo - I'm setting up my rigging this week so this is very timely for organising my reefing. Enjoy your brothers wedding! (PS weddings here now restricted to only 15 guests, I hope you're allowed more than that - stay safe!)
Thanks Steve!
Hope it helps you in some way and although I've been using this setup for a few weeks now, please take in consideration that it is still my first season with the GIS so everything is experimental! 😉
@@TheBoatRambler Thanks Teo - accepted that it's experimental, but as you're about 3 months ahead of me I will use your ideas whenever I can!
Great!!! It ´s an excellent video!
Thank you Matias!! I hope it's helpful! 😉
I'd like to see a bit of detail of how things are attached. I have a Peapod I'm trying to rig up. Yours seems to be the most relevant and most simple. Great job. I'm really enjoying your videos.
Hi John!
Have you seen one of my videos "Lug Sail Rigging"? I take it all apart at Rat Island and re-rig it.
Hope it helps. If not, just leave you doubts on the comment section on that video! 😉
Teo, regarding the loop on the luff to fix it to boom: how does it not slip aft when you tighten outhaul. I use a Stainless reefing hook up there and it is very quick and certain. I'd like to eliminate that hook, but not sure about what would keep the luff loop in place and not slip. What about using a carbiner or Joost's idea of a clip?
Hi Clint!
The loop at the reef tack is just big enough to fit the boom once the outhaul is released. When I pull the outhaul tight again the loop wont go past the previously fixed tack cringle and its tie. Also the bleater is right there and it's wrapped around the boom, again this would also prevent the reef loop from sliding aft. you can see this better at 0:25 on the video.
Hope it makes sense...
I wonder if the top and bottom pole would go forward until they meet this would make a crab clay like the boat of Moana.
That would be beautifull.
It's good to see your progress, but in a sudden gale and pitching sea I wouldn't want to be wrestling with trying to get loops in place over the end of the boom. Running reefing lines are much easier and safer.
Thanks Steve!
Does that mean I would have 3 reefing lines for the tack and 3 reefing lines for the clew? (I have 3 reefs on the sail)
@@TheBoatRambler Very good point. Myself I only have one deep reef. I don't race so if I need to reef, I REEF. But if you want multiple reefs, just setup the runnung lines on the last reef as the safest and quickest reef in the worst conditions.
Again,fantastic video,Can you explain in detail how you have your downhaul set up. I'm new to sailing and building my own boat,so I'm a bit slow on the purchase set ups,if you could explain it would be great.
Thanks John!
In a few short weeks I'll have to re-rig Forager, I can then show in more detail what my downhaul looks like! 😉
Another great video again! Why not fastening those two last reflines around the boom? cheers!
Thanks!
The mid reef ties (there are actually 3 on my sail) are not tied to the boom on a loose foot sail because if you do the foot of the sail will be forced straight along the boom and you will loose the curvature at the bottom of the sail and the ability to control sail depth.
That curvature/depth on the foot of the sail is what makes loose foot sails more powerful than a sail which is tied to the boom.
Also the reef cringles are placed on a very small reinforcement patch, I'm afraid it would be easier to rip the sail since they are not meant to be tied to the boom.
Nice rigging dude!
I'm just beginning my setup on my lug sail and wanted to ask about rope types and thickness you are using please?
So many different types of rope online now!
Could you tell me about rope types and thickness you are using for uphaul, downhaul, outhaul and mainsheet?
Many thanks!
Hi Shane!
let me see if I can remember...
-Halyard, 5mm Spectra with outer polly,(really important to not have any stretch on the halyard.)
-Outhaul, are just common single braided 4mm poly rope.
-Downhaul, double braided 4mm poly rope
-Bleater, 5mm spectra
-Mainsheet, 8mm Kingfisher
-Spectra loops, 3mm Spectra
-Boom blocks loops, 4mm double braided Poly
Check out the new rigging videos: ua-cam.com/video/BCu8200sygg/v-deo.html
have fun 😉
@@TheBoatRambler ahhh man, thanks so much for such detail😀
Much appreciated dude!
Where did you find your 3mm Spectra dogbone? Or did you make it yourself?
Hi Benjamin,
I made them myself as they need to have a very specific length to reach from each clew eyelet to the outhaul carabiner.
Good video tutorial Teo. I am thinking of putting a lug sail on the Tryst I am building.
Thanks!
Make sure to check the sail area centers (original sail plan against the lug sail) and compare to see what you can do about it, otherwise you might end up with some leehelm. Although I'm not sure how it plays out on a multihull...
I think it is probably best to ask the designer, Richard. The drawings call for a laser type sail
Great.
Thanks for this.
Keep up the good work.
I wonder if the sail can be reefed without dropping it beyond the reef point by hauling in on a second outhaul, cleating that off and relying on the lazyjacks to take care of the redundant sail area? I appreciate that the clew will not be pulled down close to the boom - but does that really matter?
Reefing would be quicker doing it that way.
Second question - do you have any thoughts on setting the length of the bleater?
Presumably too long gives lee helm and vice versa. Did you experiment or get it right by luck?
Third question - what are you using for chafe protection on the carbon boom: a cord whipping?
Thank you!
It probably could, if I had a rope secured to the front end of the boom, through the reef tack and back down trough a small block or eye and led all the way back ... 🤔
Sorry didn't see second and third questions!!
I got the Bleater length through trial and error. (not sure it's right now that I've replaced it by Spectra...)
And yes I use a cord whipping as anti-chafe. 😉
length of bleater makes surprisingly little difference. 70mm makes no discernable difference in helm.
Perhaps the top of the sail is moving forward as the boom moves back ... it it doesn't matter much with lugs.
The helm on the GIS is very light and doesn't change as the boat heels - unlike most other transom sterned boats so that could be a factor too. Might be more important with boats with less balanced helm upright and when heeled.
As far as having loose sail area between the reef and the boom ... the most important rope apart from the outhaul is the loop from the reef eye in the clew around the boom to keep the clew reef eye close to the boom.
If the boom drops away from the effective edge of the sail it will always pull the outhaul tight which overflattens the bottom of the sail and makes the boat hard to get upwind. You need good sail depth in the foot to keep power in strong or choppy conditions as the top of the sail twists off to depower. All that is pushing the boat along is the bottom of the sail ... too flat and lose too much drive.
The loop from the clew reef eye arond the boom is critical.
@@MikStorer
Many thanks for the input.
As a inspiration, have a look at the video about quick reefing I made some time back.
ua-cam.com/video/VEYUL4ga5yM/v-deo.html
Cheers Max