Brilliant Rob. you've kinda sold me on these. I'm going to start watching their vids now too. Seems a much simpler setup, and more versatile👍.......You should start asking them for commission on any sales they get through you😄
I’m new to this rob but I’m getting a setup for my home of 4x 5.3kw batteries and a 5.4kw inverter which I don’t think is enough so if I got 2x 3.6kw inverters instead of an 8.8kw then will it will help with it not tripping on a surge or have I misunderstood, I obviously realise I’d only get 7.2kw instead of 8.8kw but if two smaller inverters rather than a big one so it doesn’t trip as often I’d probably go that way unless I’m mistaken on what you have said, I do realise this post is 7months old but if you have time to reply that would be great because I’m ready to pull the trigger,thanks.
Electrical engineer here. Firstly, congratulations on having one of the less hazardous DIY installations I've seen on UA-cam. 10:00 Appliances drawing more power on startup: This phenomenon is known as startup current or inrush current. Electric motors are the main culprit of this - they require significantly more power to start spinning than they actually use once they're moving. It doesn't really happen with resistive loads (like a heater or kettle). 12:00 Multi-inverters: I have exclusively installed the 5.5kW SunSynk inverters. For homes that require more power, I just install multiple (so far I've only had to do setups with two inverters, no more). The parallel setup is pretty straightforward, and it works well. In addition to the extra charge controllers, you also get multiple aux load ports, so you could have multiple levels of dump load (e.g. when the battery reaches 80% use one aux load to power a water heater, but if that's not enough, and the battery gets charged, turn on the next dump load). 16:20 Grid settings: I know you said that you'd never be getting grid power, but if you ever do, you need to change the grid settings back. They are set up that way to comply with the national grid code. I have some questions about your setup: - What size are your battery cables? (They look a little small to me - IIRC the manual calls for 50mm2 or 70mm2 cables, not sure what BS7671 requires, or if you even follow BS7671 there) - What's your earthing arrangement? Do you have earth spikes in the ground?
Thanks thats great info. The battery cables need to be doubled up as they sent two and I only installed one which is why we are cutting out over 5000w so you are right one pair is too thin. And yes we have an earth spike ourside the workshop that goes straight to the cosumer unit (and I took the earth to the inverter from there).
yep start surge power can be 2x or more the normal running current, most generators you can dial in the range of Hz it runs to get cleaner power, for inputs always aim to run at max voltage within the input range of the inverter, great video on setup, with starlink the video i have seen, you need really good line of sight of the sky so the higher it is the better
Thanks! Yea I think its because we are in a glen that its no good. We also have a great position for the 4g router to go so I think we are a special case if we get it to perform better
@@beyondtheworkbench some motors the surge power is 3.5 times the rated output, most inverters have a surge capacity of 2x the rated output, unfortunately some of the Chinese inverters (not all) are sold as 8kw, but that is their surge output, not their normal running output - hopefully that makes sense…
Hello from Corby. Excellent series - I think you’ll be inspiring others to install renewables. The electric car makes sense - as seemingly you have more power than you need. Vehicle to home / 2 way charging one seems to makessense.
A second inverter is what i did that works really great. I don't connect the generator to the same inverter that provides the power to my home. Most generators have a bad sine wave. Your Sunsync can do DC coupling as well as AC coupling. I have a very cheap Voltronic 5K 48V (300 euro) inverter connected to my battery bank in parallel with my 2X 6K Deye's (is the same inverter). I am also using it to connect some extra panels to my system. 15K in total. When the generator runs on this inverter it is not providing the sine wave for my house. Victron MPPT can also be connected to your battery bank as expansion in parallel. Hope this helps. Nice job.
Hi, looks good, I did as you have back in May 2022 with the Sunsynk 8kw hybrid inverter with 3 x 5.12kw sunsynk Batteries and 8kw worth of panels all acting as off grid for my rural home. Did as you have in watched the vid and studied the manual and set it all up. I'm now looking to add more panels but through a seperate string inverter, sunsynk are only nor bring out their vids of their version where in an off grid situation I can add another 4kw AC input through the load input. I ve had some ups and downs with the system but pretty much happy with what I've got. Other than the lack of sun over winter months and a need to keep my batteries warm so they don't go below 0 C for being charged (li fe batteries) as that will wreck them but a gardeners seedling hear mat and electric blanket sort that all at low wattage. The inverter does use up a low wattage when idling and a constant wattage for itself (about 120 watts ish) when powering through the loads etc. Nice to have seen yr set up.
Thanks, that's a great idea with the heated seed mat on the batteries. I even have one in a box not being used. Good to hear you are much further down the line than us and the inverter is still working ok.
@@beyondtheworkbench I recall one of the only major mishaps I did was when tightening the positive bolt on the invertors battery connection was that I hadn't tightened it firmly enough using the correct tool for it, so in time as the connection heated up and cooled through use it became loose and over heated and started melting the surrounding black heat resistant moulding seoerating the poss and neg terminals, thankfully I was checking connections under the panel after spotting some spikes on the app for temps, I was able to obtain a repkacement part and fit it myself. Lesson learned.
That was a decent explanation from a technical point of view. If it helps, you can add more starter capacitor kits to motors that tax the inverter. I understand it may not appeal to a person with no electric training, but it will help. If it becomes to annoying and you want to work on the problem, I'll help you with the engineering work. The parts are readily available and inexpensive. Thank you, keep working and good luck.
Looks like a great inverter! Love it. 3KW sounds like a hefty kettle. You can get lower demand kettles that take longer to boil but they would at least be unlikely to trip the inverter. I think my cheapo kettle only uses 1KW.
Be interesting to see how long it lasts… Personally I’d have used a victron phoenix or multiplus and a gridtied inverter to push the hydro into the batteries
@@beyondtheworkbench did you manage to get the inverter to talk to the Hyundai ats? We’ve got a hybrid inverter at present that’s now on the blink and it’s never communicated with the Hyundai so we’ve been starting and stopping it manually to top the batteries up (what a pain)
If you add another 8kW inverter you will need more batteries. Plyontech US5000 are rated for 100A discharge. 16kW at 50V is 320A. Low frequency inverters such as Victron Multiplus or Quattro handle the startup currents from inductive loads better than high frequency inverters. Depends on your use case the most appropriate but the HF type are cheaper.
great thanks, yea I think we are at the minimum battery requirement at the moment with only two so more of those would likely be our next move if we wanted to upgrade
For the hydro, if you could add an electronic valve to the water flow to turn it off at source ( ie at the generator not upstairs) that would solve the dump issue wouldn't it? May be put some immersion heaters on your hot tank?
@@beyondtheworkbench when you do... Look at a Willis immersion heater. And install it in the correct orientation. It goes outside the hot tank so it can heat the whole thing as you would install it level with the bottom of the tank
@16:40, yes the problem with grid settings should be the dirty power from the generator. I live on-grid and have the same inverter (these are made by deye and re-branded by different brands) and in summers when there is a lot of high load appliances running, my grid provider increase the input voltage to 260 sometimes and the inverter cuts off the grid because the grid settings the inverter was locked to 240 v, changing the grid setting solved the problem for me.
How you getting on with the 3d printed coanda, mate? By the way, you can look at a 'soft start' for certain devices which can help manage inrush current (e.g. soft starts available for heat pumps, etc).
Devices with inductive loads (think motors and magnets) will have a high startup demand. You can reduce it by using a soft start capacitor. Also you can get 1kw kettles. Theyre slower, but orobably cheaper than another inverter. :)
I've just re watched this as we are now at the stage of the land purchase going through! If you ever fancy working away in cornwalm for a weekend to set up hydro and solar, let me know how much you'd charge 🤣 this is all making my head hurt now!
Thats amazing well done! I hope it all goes to plan. I wont have the time to travel but if you need any help we have dont videos on hydro etc if you havent already seen them. You can always contact me if you are having any trouble
@offgridscotland brilliant thank you! It's definitely a lot to learn and take in Regarding the turbine and solar for self installing but I'm hopeful I can make it work
The tripping problem may be that you only have 1 battery - might I suggest having 2 (in parallel) to double the power the batteries can feed and be charged by. Your battery is probably 50A nominal current - about 2.5KW (or 100A max - 5KW max). These figures double with a 2 battery setup. This should help stop the battery maxing out.
Someone pointed out I needed to run two power cables from the batteries (we do have 2) as the one I have is too thin to use the whole 8.5k so you are right on the money.
@@beyondtheworkbench It's not the thickness of the cable, it's the fact that a 5.32KWh battery can only give you 5KW on it's own. If you had 2 batteries you could generate the inverter's maximum output of 8.8KW from just the batteries alone, and any solar generated would supplement the batteries. ie. If you wanted a load of 6KW, the single battery setup would only cope if you had 1KW of solar too. Much better to have 2 batteries, then your excess solar and hydro can be stored in the batteries.
Really interesting I'm looking to upgrade my off grid setup with the 8.8kw but not sure now if you are having issues with overload I'm running 2 U5648ms mpp inverters in parallel and never had an issue with overload but just want a better setup it would be good to see what happens and what you are running for the overload to kick in
I had another message from my inverter guru and he says I have the battery amps set too low for what they can do so sounds like the cutting out is my fault rather than the systems
@@beyondtheworkbench thanks for the update I suppose the amp limit is set so you don't over tax the batteries so the more batteries you have the higher limit you can set
Hi there, regards your spinning hydro turbine, you mentioned every second or third day you have to clear the silt? From where exactly? the nozzles? I keep thinking about it and how you notice the actual power production decreasing slightly as the silt builds up. Perhaps it trips when the power is lower?
I showed it in one of my hydro videos it collects around the nozzle entry to the turbine decreasing the avaliable space for the water to spray through. My electrician firend pointed out it is tripping because I had the amps set too low for the battery so when we pushed 4000W it tripped. Now I increased it (up to the cables capacity) it no longer trips. Thanks for trying to work it through for us!
I run an SS8.8K in off grid config, often close to it's rated power, including inductive loads, and I've never had it trip out. Bearing in mind that these things are good for 16KW for 10s you really shouldn't be seeing the problems you've stated. (For reference a kettle is purely resistive, it won't peak at anything other than its stated rating, a washing machine not so much). At a guess, you 're probably tripping because you're discharge limited on your batteries/cables. 2x US5000 are only good for 100A continuous i.e. ~4.8KW draw (so roughly kettle+washing machine). To hit the stated rating of 8KW you'll need another 2 batteries, and you'll need to beef up your cabling to 50/70mm and your fuses to at least 200A. If you connect the gen to the gen port the inverter will soft ramp the power draw to minimise frequency droop when you switch to gen. You can still use the port with an aux load using a change over switch driven by the gen start signal and some 3rd part SW to control the ports function (Solar assistant is perfect for this). Separately, 2x5K or 3x3.6K may be cheaper but be aware that the PV inputs are limited to 13 and 11A respectively vs 26A on the 8KW inverter.
Hi from the other end of the UK! I'm in Cornwall and would love to be able to build something off-grid, i've got the oppurtunity for a patch of woodland with a stream behind my Mother's property It's in a valley so solar isnt a great option but hydro might work well with the stream. I'd likely be building a traditional cob and stone small hut by hand, im interested about what your long term plan would be for your toilet and shower! Cheers for sharing knowledge :)
that sounds idillic! I really hope it works out and I am sure you will have a great time doing it. We have a composting septic tank which 1 year on works amazingly. Here is the video if you wanted to watch it. ua-cam.com/video/tG_3AXK83eI/v-deo.html You can get smaller setups as well but seems for us it needs to be emptied once a year so I wouldn't want a smaller one but there are 4 of us.
I use my dump load to charge a Bluetti ac200max. Then in the evening it acts like the grid. And charges my house battery through the night and keeps the house running
You may not need to get a second inverter the same size. You may be able to configure a smaller one to act as "the grid" to your existing one provided you can limit the power it draws. Also, if you have trouble starting some machines you can get whats called a "soft start" that limits the current a machine is able to draw. They are not cheap though, so a second inverter may be a better deal if you have several machines with big motors.
You will only need soft starters for heavy inductive loads - usually appliances with large electric motors. There are some cheaper ones online with simple functionality from China which may be worth looking at. Your inverter is actually made in China by Deye - they have the same inverter under their own name and they offer 3rd party branding for companies such as Sunsynk. I believe Sunsynk have their own proprietary adapted software on their units.
Friend of mine bought a 2016 Nissan Leaf - car had been in a crash, but it has a 30 kWh battery so he just uses the car for electricity storage, cost him under £2.5k.
There is an induction spike on many electric devices at start up. If you decide to upgrade to the 16kw model let me know, may be interested in buying your 8.8kw model.
9:54 if that's an 8kw inverter it's tripping as you are trying to pull 175A @ 51.2v through 1 set of 25mm2 cables which are only rated to 100A max. The cables can only realistically provide 5.1kw dc (about 4.8kw A.C after losses) Not watched full video yet but will edit this... you need 175A of current (approx 9kw DC) to get that 8kw AC. So battery discharge rates are important. Couldn't see anything about batteries which may be the issue with tripping and your charging issue. Pylontech US5000 nominal discharge rate 50A but max of 100A so in theory 15mins of 200A. But you only have 1 set of cables to the batteries. I can almost guarantee the voltage drops low when you attempt to pull more than the 100A 1 cable is rated for. Just use 2 inverter to battery cables and put 1 on each battery, that will give you 200A current capability and should stop the tripping. The 8.8kw inverter can in theory draw 190A from batteries (when the voltage sags) but at 54v I see 175A max for 9kw discharge to make 8kw AC You mentioned generetor charging issues First is your battery charge amps set high enough (190A) And for the generator... its your grid. Grid amps setting is not amps at 230/240v. Its current at 54.5v which is the typical battery charge voltage. So 100A would be 5.4kw approx. But again, those battery cables need doubling up for 200A peak which can only be sustained for 15mins by your batteries
You hit the nail on the head. My power guru gave me another call and mentioned it was the battery amps and that I only have 1 pair of cables at the moment so I need to double them up and I can push the amps to 200.
This is the comment I was looking for. Everyone in the comments was mentioning the problem but nobody was trying to provide the solution. I was wondering why 8.8kw inverter couldn't handle a kettle with high torque load (even with the rest of the appliances running simultaneously), shouldn't be a problem for 8.8kw deye inverter.
Thank you for sharing . I've researched for some four years regarding generation & use of electrical power . The ideal point with generating electrical energy is keep the system as simple as possible . There are variable factors with the initial principle of the use of the electrical energy insofar as electrical appliances requirements ?. A prime example are the luxuries such as washing machines & hot showers , these are the main devices that would require an inverter , almost every other device can be operated on 12 Volt DC. Inverters are very inefficient & costly . If you have 240V AC electrical power supplied from an energy provider then technically you are not living fully off grid . There are alternatives to become fully off grid , it would require domestic change requirements & using a combination of hydro , sola & wind , even a 12v charge tap to charge a portable lithium ion battery from your quad bike each time you use it , that would run your laptop for example . By and large practically everything is achievable , it's just the consumption expectations one requires ?, washing machines & electrical hot water tanks will always require huge amounts of power , there are wood burners that will provide cooking facilities & will also heat up water tanks . All this commercial brain washing about the procedure of washing clothes is very over rated , spin cycles & washing load times & all the rest of it is very over rated , one can wash clothes in cold water left into soak , there's mangles to squeeze out the excess water & so forth . A good point to look at is how those get by with living on boats for instance , you could incorporate this idea within your home & workplace . I lived in the south of France in the foothills of the Pyrenees & lived totally off grid using 12 volt DC appliances , I wired a secondary 12 V DC electrical system along side the standard 240 V AC mains ,once I had completed the 12 V DC system , I then had the 240 V AC mains supply disconnected , I left all the AC system in place hence for the eventual sale of the property .
A very thoughtful and well written comment. I agree with you and even considered designing a different kind of washing machine that ran off of the power of the stream (using the momentum to turn the drum) It needs a complete overhaul of the way we think about energy to arrive at this kind of living
@@beyondtheworkbench That is a good idea , although generally clothes washing can be just left in to soak without any rotation , there are hand washing rotators available, just a few turns will be sufficient rest assured , it will simplify everything . There's also other means of heating water such as a through chimney water tank , complete with celotex insulation board throughout the property you can't go wrong , if anything the property will be too hot in the winter . for summer water heating you can place black radiators on the roof , you'll need a 12 volt DC water pump , drain the water in wintertime . You can design an internal water tank in order to prevent winter water freezing , everything can be done without too much work & cost , I designed my property completely internally self contained without any external services apart from the septic tank , it was perfect even with 5 feet of snow . You'll just need to design the house as if it was a sea vessel , bring everything in on board . With seasoned wood stock you shan't require gas , though a gas bottle or two placed in a sufficient outside shelter would be fine as a cooking fuel combination option. Needless to say an external fridge is a must have for winter , if the fridge arrangements are enclosed the daily food won't freeze .
microinverter may let you put cheap little microinverters on power sources that need it for transmission but it can give them a grid source eg solar microinverters a mile away
It is just a (relatively) cheap AC/DC rectifier off ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135058604475?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1f_Z2kjZORZSaaP8qTn68gw23&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=135058604475&targetid=2338077058722&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=20342&poi=&campaignid=17206177401&mkgroupid=165034047246&rlsatarget=aud-1641271186540:pla-2338077058722&abcId=9300866&merchantid=662121627&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Oq2BhCCARIsAA5hubV_qbVTd5JPGisOFXaFfdQtSEvSgHgSgAXcMq9TPqaQZFW8UJzzimwaAnfFEALw_wcB
The reason I think u tripping I looks like u have a 5.5kw inverter and not the 8kw. I have a 5kw your look exactly the same as mine. In South africa the 8.8kw have fans on the side. The 5.5kw don't have fans
Definately the 5.5kw unit. The 8.8 kw also has a different form factor for how the unit opens on the panel. Always check the C ratings of the batteries as well which which can make a huge difference to charge and discharge ratings.
I think you are right ( I had initially thought that it looked smaller than the 8kw version I have), if you look at the different kW invertors shown on the video at about 1:46ish to 1:50 they show that the 8kw which I have has only 4 hex screws to hold the panel in place while the 5kw or smaller version has 6 screws on the panel very similar to the invertor on the wall, although I think there is different 8kw sunsynk invertor that is a more recent version of my own, but the label on the side of the invertor should identify what power/type it is. And as in a previous comment the battery c discharge rate can affect how much power can be supplied if only relying on the batteries although if relying on the solar and batteries together (or solar on its own depending) or the max discharge rate set up on the app would cut it off too in an off grid situation.
@@charlesmay1810 There is 2 versions of the 5.5 and 8.8kw. Ecco and no Ecco. Bms and rs485ports vary. Inside. There's a few other changes to the pcb board
I had 20 antminers back in 2022 so I have been racking my mind as to how to get some here but turning them off when the power is low isn't a great idea as most of them are designed to run constantly. I also made a gpu setup for when ethereum was mineable.
@@beyondtheworkbench Just found your channel, you live off-grid.you do crypto, you build your own internet setup, you use solar+hydro power, seems like you are living my dream life. cheers mate you got a subscriber.
Sounds like the right inverter for your needs. Micro inverters are for individual solar panels. They are mounted at the back of the solar panel. These days you have also micro inverters to which you can connect two panels. But basically those are two micro inverters inside one housing. A solar panel system with micro inverters is more efficient and durable compared to a system with a single inverter that has to control all the panels from the entire system. For example when you have a micro inverter system and if one panel is in the shade the other panels will still operate at the maximum capacity. And the transistors inside the micro inverters do not have to deal with high voltage and high currents so they last longer. And it allows you to monitor each individual panel. And it is also safer because the micro inverters are not situated inside the house, and you do not have long DC wires all over the place. The output is grid voltage, and that is the only cable that you have to deal with. And you can replace any panel at any given moment with any random panel regardless what brand or power output because each panel has its own micro inverter and the output voltage is always the same. This information is from the top of my head. The technology improves every day, so I am sure that my information is not complete.
@@beyondtheworkbenchLast year I looked into it, and if I was going to install a solar panel system I would most certainly go for a micro inverter system. It costs a little more, but you get more efficiency, more durability, more safety, more monitoring capability, and unlimited flexibility when you want to replace broken panels or to expand the system. It doesn't tie you to a certain form factor.
Guillaume Piton are living now from more 20 years off grid, he does videos and tests with cheap and expensive materials inverters/charger/mppt/battery/solar panel ... (use english subtitles, all documents displayed are read). he was teacher in electricity, and since a lot of years intalls solar, wind turbine projects What he explains in a video, is to calculate size of your project not when all is well, but when all is bad and when production is the lower during year. He calculated too 5 days without electricity production, because bad weather, problem with panels, in your case problem with your turbine or no water. what he concludes is that even if you choose for an all in one inverter or cheap device, finally you need to spend more money to get more solar panels, to produce more, more battery capacity to store more, because your inverter need to run, 5 days, 24/24, and cheap device consumes more energy, and even has lower performance to convert energy from the battery or generator. Same thing when you produce energy, lower performance to convert energy from mppt to battery, battery to network home In your case, you convert from your turbin to the mppt from AC to DC too. What you need to know is, how many I produce, how many finally I can use in my home with this production, how many battery I need, how many inverter comsumes, how many consume the minimum devices i need in my home for this 5 days, cost if I use a generator or if I buy an ecoflow With a cheap all in one, performance is lower, components convert more energy in heat, and more, all heat is in the same box, and as components have a less quality, with heat, lifetime is lower, so you must change more times you device too or have more chace to have breakdowns, and in this case, the device is not available during not a few days, but months, if the manufacturer accept to repair it, following very closed warranty terms to avoid this, if he decides to not repair, you must replace all the device ... A good off grid inverter should have a mode stand by/eco to economize energy and get longer lifetime (for solar project, for turbine just to economize battery power in case of no production, because you produce 24/24) A good off grid inverter should accept 2 times the normal power capacity your need for an inverter which consumes 10W more tha an other, 24/24 during 5 days, with a performance of 80 % to convert production in usuable electricity (I'm nice with this number, total x 1.2) power used by inverter : 10 x 5 x 24 = 1200 W power to produce the day before 1200 x 1.2 = 1440 W quantity of battery I need (I use 90 % of performance to convert battery energy used by inverter) 1200 x 1.1 = 1320 W usng the price of 300€ for 1 kW of battery, I have 396€ to spend To produce 1440W the day before using solar panel, in Scotland the 21th december, the shortest day, with an average of 2 hours of sun, I need around 800W of solar panel, so around 400/500€. So You will prefer use your generator, or an ecoflow ..., and this has a cost too Sunsync didn't give what consume their inverters ..., but for a deye 8kw it's around 60W (same product in fact) A Victron multiplus II 8kW (1400€, has a programming relay to start stop a device like a generator, heating 15kW of peak power) it's 29 W, 1 cerbo gx Victron in option to configure online 2.8W (250€, has a programming relay too), 2mppt SRNE 60A 2x1W (good performance, low consumation, 2x120€), so 35W total power, total price 1890€ in France, 1583 pounds Difference is around 25W, and it is just if inverter do nothing, so It is sure it will be more if you produce 24/24 and use power of battery for your home ... then each day you used a very minimum of 25 x 24 = 600W more power (3kW for 5 days) Performance of sunsynk is around 5 % lower, if your production is 10kw by day, you lose 500W more power (2.5kw for 5 days) you lose by day, minimum 1100W of power (5.5 kW for 5 days, 400 kW by year, 2000 kW for warranty time) because you have a lower quality and performance inverter, lower lifetime because it has more heat produced and all are in a box and lower quality components, and sunsync price is 1000 pounds more expensive just for the device,to add 2000kW lost, around 560 pounds of electricity for a public network price, very more if you are using your generator ..., then maybe you can pay a professionnal to configure your Victron mutiplus II and even economize money, if you are not capable to do it yourself sorry for my bad english
@@beyondtheworkbench cool if that helps. I just summarized what Guillaume Piton explains. This is for solar projects, but for hydro, you can have periods where the water freezes, a lack of water, or a pipe or turbine problem so you have to think about the deadlines to resolve the problem. .. For each project, just use the points I've explained to you that you need, and of course, try to get a second source to check it's suitable for your project. have a nice day
@@beyondtheworkbench I would highly recommend having some kind of back up even if it is just a couple of car batteries at charge and a spare charge controller and a little plug-in inverter so at least you have some power
Lightweight, high frequency, transformerless inverter like these offer a far poorer surge capacity and a sorter life expectancy than low frequency, transformer based inverters. I would never buy one.
Love the enthusiasm and inventiveness - more videos please 😂
Thanks Peter always glad you are here
Brilliant Rob. you've kinda sold me on these. I'm going to start watching their vids now too.
Seems a much simpler setup, and more versatile👍.......You should start asking them for commission on any sales they get through you😄
Thanks, they are long but they have loads and they are really informative. I should!
I’m new to this rob but I’m getting a setup for my home of 4x 5.3kw batteries and a 5.4kw inverter which I don’t think is enough so if I got 2x 3.6kw inverters instead of an 8.8kw then will it will help with it not tripping on a surge or have I misunderstood, I obviously realise I’d only get 7.2kw instead of 8.8kw but if two smaller inverters rather than a big one so it doesn’t trip as often I’d probably go that way unless I’m mistaken on what you have said, I do realise this post is 7months old but if you have time to reply that would be great because I’m ready to pull the trigger,thanks.
Electrical engineer here. Firstly, congratulations on having one of the less hazardous DIY installations I've seen on UA-cam.
10:00 Appliances drawing more power on startup: This phenomenon is known as startup current or inrush current. Electric motors are the main culprit of this - they require significantly more power to start spinning than they actually use once they're moving. It doesn't really happen with resistive loads (like a heater or kettle).
12:00 Multi-inverters: I have exclusively installed the 5.5kW SunSynk inverters. For homes that require more power, I just install multiple (so far I've only had to do setups with two inverters, no more). The parallel setup is pretty straightforward, and it works well. In addition to the extra charge controllers, you also get multiple aux load ports, so you could have multiple levels of dump load (e.g. when the battery reaches 80% use one aux load to power a water heater, but if that's not enough, and the battery gets charged, turn on the next dump load).
16:20 Grid settings: I know you said that you'd never be getting grid power, but if you ever do, you need to change the grid settings back. They are set up that way to comply with the national grid code.
I have some questions about your setup:
- What size are your battery cables? (They look a little small to me - IIRC the manual calls for 50mm2 or 70mm2 cables, not sure what BS7671 requires, or if you even follow BS7671 there)
- What's your earthing arrangement? Do you have earth spikes in the ground?
Thanks thats great info. The battery cables need to be doubled up as they sent two and I only installed one which is why we are cutting out over 5000w so you are right one pair is too thin. And yes we have an earth spike ourside the workshop that goes straight to the cosumer unit (and I took the earth to the inverter from there).
@jonahswain did you see your reply?
yep start surge power can be 2x or more the normal running current, most generators you can dial in the range of Hz it runs to get cleaner power, for inputs always aim to run at max voltage within the input range of the inverter, great video on setup, with starlink the video i have seen, you need really good line of sight of the sky so the higher it is the better
Thanks! Yea I think its because we are in a glen that its no good. We also have a great position for the 4g router to go so I think we are a special case if we get it to perform better
@@beyondtheworkbench some motors the surge power is 3.5 times the rated output, most inverters have a surge capacity of 2x the rated output, unfortunately some of the Chinese inverters (not all) are sold as 8kw, but that is their surge output, not their normal running output - hopefully that makes sense…
thanks@@livingoffgridinscotland
Hello from Corby. Excellent series - I think you’ll be inspiring others to install renewables.
The electric car makes sense - as seemingly you have more power than you need. Vehicle to home / 2 way charging one seems to makessense.
We moved from corby to here! We did the lodge on Weldon Road (unless I already know you and you already know that)
A second inverter is what i did that works really great. I don't connect the generator to the same inverter that provides the power to my home. Most generators have a bad sine wave. Your Sunsync can do DC coupling as well as AC coupling. I have a very cheap Voltronic 5K 48V (300 euro) inverter connected to my battery bank in parallel with my 2X 6K Deye's (is the same inverter). I am also using it to connect some extra panels to my system. 15K in total. When the generator runs on this inverter it is not providing the sine wave for my house. Victron MPPT can also be connected to your battery bank as expansion in parallel. Hope this helps. Nice job.
Thanks! sounds like you know your way around this kind of setup and yours sounds really good
Hi, looks good, I did as you have back in May 2022 with the Sunsynk 8kw hybrid inverter with 3 x 5.12kw sunsynk Batteries and 8kw worth of panels all acting as off grid for my rural home. Did as you have in watched the vid and studied the manual and set it all up. I'm now looking to add more panels but through a seperate string inverter, sunsynk are only nor bring out their vids of their version where in an off grid situation I can add another 4kw AC input through the load input. I ve had some ups and downs with the system but pretty much happy with what I've got. Other than the lack of sun over winter months and a need to keep my batteries warm so they don't go below 0 C for being charged (li fe batteries) as that will wreck them but a gardeners seedling hear mat and electric blanket sort that all at low wattage. The inverter does use up a low wattage when idling and a constant wattage for itself (about 120 watts ish) when powering through the loads etc. Nice to have seen yr set up.
Thanks, that's a great idea with the heated seed mat on the batteries. I even have one in a box not being used. Good to hear you are much further down the line than us and the inverter is still working ok.
@@beyondtheworkbench I recall one of the only major mishaps I did was when tightening the positive bolt on the invertors battery connection was that I hadn't tightened it firmly enough using the correct tool for it, so in time as the connection heated up and cooled through use it became loose and over heated and started melting the surrounding black heat resistant moulding seoerating the poss and neg terminals, thankfully I was checking connections under the panel after spotting some spikes on the app for temps, I was able to obtain a repkacement part and fit it myself. Lesson learned.
Wow I think I will go and check my connections right now@@charlesmay1810
That was a decent explanation from a technical point of view. If it helps, you can add more starter capacitor kits to motors that tax the inverter. I understand it may not appeal to a person with no electric training, but it will help. If it becomes to annoying and you want to work on the problem, I'll help you with the engineering work. The parts are readily available and inexpensive. Thank you, keep working and good luck.
thank you so much that's such a kind offer! I will save your comment pinned as one of the experts
@@beyondtheworkbench You're welcome. I'm happy tp be able to help out. Those "boring numbers" you mentioned are part of my job.
Looks like a great inverter! Love it. 3KW sounds like a hefty kettle. You can get lower demand kettles that take longer to boil but they would at least be unlikely to trip the inverter. I think my cheapo kettle only uses 1KW.
Thanks, we have a thermous that we pour the boiling water in to keep it hot for most of the day so we dont have to re-boil for every cup of tea
Be interesting to see how long it lasts…
Personally I’d have used a victron phoenix or multiplus and a gridtied inverter to push the hydro into the batteries
Hopefully it wont blow up too soon
@@beyondtheworkbench did you manage to get the inverter to talk to the Hyundai ats?
We’ve got a hybrid inverter at present that’s now on the blink and it’s never communicated with the Hyundai so we’ve been starting and stopping it manually to top the batteries up (what a pain)
I've had mine for 2 years, hasn't blown up yet.
If you add another 8kW inverter you will need more batteries. Plyontech US5000 are rated for 100A discharge. 16kW at 50V is 320A. Low frequency inverters such as Victron Multiplus or Quattro handle the startup currents from inductive loads better than high frequency inverters. Depends on your use case the most appropriate but the HF type are cheaper.
great thanks, yea I think we are at the minimum battery requirement at the moment with only two so more of those would likely be our next move if we wanted to upgrade
@@beyondtheworkbench Fogstar are doing their 15kwh battery. It's what I'm going with. Built in heater as well for those cold nights
For the hydro, if you could add an electronic valve to the water flow to turn it off at source ( ie at the generator not upstairs) that would solve the dump issue wouldn't it?
May be put some immersion heaters on your hot tank?
That's an excellent idea. We are looking into the water heater as that's the best way of getting some free hot water when there is excess power
@@beyondtheworkbench when you do... Look at a Willis immersion heater. And install it in the correct orientation. It goes outside the hot tank so it can heat the whole thing as you would install it level with the bottom of the tank
@16:40, yes the problem with grid settings should be the dirty power from the generator. I live on-grid and have the same inverter (these are made by deye and re-branded by different brands) and in summers when there is a lot of high load appliances running, my grid provider increase the input voltage to 260 sometimes and the inverter cuts off the grid because the grid settings the inverter was locked to 240 v, changing the grid setting solved the problem for me.
Aha! I have found that for some reason the grid settings revert to their previous values for some reason so I will have to look into that
How you getting on with the 3d printed coanda, mate? By the way, you can look at a 'soft start' for certain devices which can help manage inrush current (e.g. soft starts available for heat pumps, etc).
Oh, also look at inrush current limiters
I haven't used a 3d printed one although the intakes we have used are working ok (the drain pipes)
Thanks, I just looked and they look really handy
Really good video
Thanks!😁
Got 2 * 12k 3 phase sunsynks, love them
Wow thats a massive set up!
@@beyondtheworkbench heatpumps, water heater..
Btw a water heater is a great dumpload
Devices with inductive loads (think motors and magnets) will have a high startup demand. You can reduce it by using a soft start capacitor. Also you can get 1kw kettles. Theyre slower, but orobably cheaper than another inverter. :)
The soft start capacitor is a great idea thank you
I've just re watched this as we are now at the stage of the land purchase going through!
If you ever fancy working away in cornwalm for a weekend to set up hydro and solar, let me know how much you'd charge 🤣 this is all making my head hurt now!
Thats amazing well done! I hope it all goes to plan. I wont have the time to travel but if you need any help we have dont videos on hydro etc if you havent already seen them. You can always contact me if you are having any trouble
@offgridscotland brilliant thank you! It's definitely a lot to learn and take in Regarding the turbine and solar for self installing but I'm hopeful I can make it work
The tripping problem may be that you only have 1 battery - might I suggest having 2 (in parallel) to double the power the batteries can feed and be charged by. Your battery is probably 50A nominal current - about 2.5KW (or 100A max - 5KW max). These figures double with a 2 battery setup. This should help stop the battery maxing out.
Someone pointed out I needed to run two power cables from the batteries (we do have 2) as the one I have is too thin to use the whole 8.5k so you are right on the money.
@@beyondtheworkbench It's not the thickness of the cable, it's the fact that a 5.32KWh battery can only give you 5KW on it's own. If you had 2 batteries you could generate the inverter's maximum output of 8.8KW from just the batteries alone, and any solar generated would supplement the batteries. ie. If you wanted a load of 6KW, the single battery setup would only cope if you had 1KW of solar too. Much better to have 2 batteries, then your excess solar and hydro can be stored in the batteries.
Really interesting I'm looking to upgrade my off grid setup with the 8.8kw but not sure now if you are having issues with overload I'm running 2 U5648ms mpp inverters in parallel and never had an issue with overload but just want a better setup it would be good to see what happens and what you are running for the overload to kick in
I had another message from my inverter guru and he says I have the battery amps set too low for what they can do so sounds like the cutting out is my fault rather than the systems
@@beyondtheworkbench thanks for the update I suppose the amp limit is set so you don't over tax the batteries so the more batteries you have the higher limit you can set
Hi there, regards your spinning hydro turbine, you mentioned every second or third day you have to clear the silt? From where exactly? the nozzles? I keep thinking about it and how you notice the actual power production decreasing slightly as the silt builds up. Perhaps it trips when the power is lower?
I showed it in one of my hydro videos it collects around the nozzle entry to the turbine decreasing the avaliable space for the water to spray through. My electrician firend pointed out it is tripping because I had the amps set too low for the battery so when we pushed 4000W it tripped. Now I increased it (up to the cables capacity) it no longer trips. Thanks for trying to work it through for us!
I run an SS8.8K in off grid config, often close to it's rated power, including inductive loads, and I've never had it trip out. Bearing in mind that these things are good for 16KW for 10s you really shouldn't be seeing the problems you've stated. (For reference a kettle is purely resistive, it won't peak at anything other than its stated rating, a washing machine not so much).
At a guess, you 're probably tripping because you're discharge limited on your batteries/cables. 2x US5000 are only good for 100A continuous i.e. ~4.8KW draw (so roughly kettle+washing machine). To hit the stated rating of 8KW you'll need another 2 batteries, and you'll need to beef up your cabling to 50/70mm and your fuses to at least 200A.
If you connect the gen to the gen port the inverter will soft ramp the power draw to minimise frequency droop when you switch to gen. You can still use the port with an aux load using a change over switch driven by the gen start signal and some 3rd part SW to control the ports function (Solar assistant is perfect for this).
Separately, 2x5K or 3x3.6K may be cheaper but be aware that the PV inputs are limited to 13 and 11A respectively vs 26A on the 8KW inverter.
We discovered it was a battery lead that was too thin, changing this fixed the cutting out issue
You could even buy another and parallel them if you need that little bit more!
That's definitely something we are thinking about, especially when we have the workshop etc set up as we will need more power then
I'm the same. Downside to a diy because I'm having to add and tweak things
It can definitely take a lot of head scratching.
Hi from the other end of the UK!
I'm in Cornwall and would love to be able to build something off-grid, i've got the oppurtunity for a patch of woodland with a stream behind my Mother's property
It's in a valley so solar isnt a great option but hydro might work well with the stream.
I'd likely be building a traditional cob and stone small hut by hand, im interested about what your long term plan would be for your toilet and shower!
Cheers for sharing knowledge :)
that sounds idillic! I really hope it works out and I am sure you will have a great time doing it. We have a composting septic tank which 1 year on works amazingly. Here is the video if you wanted to watch it. ua-cam.com/video/tG_3AXK83eI/v-deo.html
You can get smaller setups as well but seems for us it needs to be emptied once a year so I wouldn't want a smaller one but there are 4 of us.
@offgridscotland whereabouts did you find the info for learning to install the hydro please? :)
I’m new to this so if I got 2x 3.6kw instead of an 8.8kw does that mean there is less chance of it tripping even tho I realise I will lose 1.6kw?
I use my dump load to charge a Bluetti ac200max. Then in the evening it acts like the grid. And charges my house battery through the night and keeps the house running
I have heard someone else say that and I think its an excellent idea
@@beyondtheworkbench cheers. Looking forward to seeing your progress
You may not need to get a second inverter the same size. You may be able to configure a smaller one to act as "the grid" to your existing one provided you can limit the power it draws.
Also, if you have trouble starting some machines you can get whats called a "soft start" that limits the current a machine is able to draw. They are not cheap though, so a second inverter may be a better deal if you have several machines with big motors.
great, I hadn't heard of a soft start so I will add it to my list of things to consider. Thanks for the tip!
You will only need soft starters for heavy inductive loads - usually appliances with large electric motors. There are some cheaper ones online with simple functionality from China which may be worth looking at. Your inverter is actually made in China by Deye - they have the same inverter under their own name and they offer 3rd party branding for companies such as Sunsynk. I believe Sunsynk have their own proprietary adapted software on their units.
Interesting and informative, thank you 👍
Thanks😁
Friend of mine bought a 2016 Nissan Leaf - car had been in a crash, but it has a 30 kWh battery so he just uses the car for electricity storage, cost him under £2.5k.
Nice! I had considered a crash damadged car battery pack but wanted it setup quickly so maybe a project for the future
There is an induction spike on many electric devices at start up.
If you decide to upgrade to the 16kw model let me know, may be interested in buying your 8.8kw model.
wilco
Best inverter. Saves money.
I agree
I'm surprised by the tripping/spiking from a single appliance as a 13 amp outlet will (in theory) only be able to pull 3.12kWh.
It was the battery amps set too low (Mark, the chap who was helping me out identified it)
9:54 if that's an 8kw inverter it's tripping as you are trying to pull 175A @ 51.2v through 1 set of 25mm2 cables which are only rated to 100A max. The cables can only realistically provide 5.1kw dc (about 4.8kw A.C after losses)
Not watched full video yet but will edit this... you need 175A of current (approx 9kw DC) to get that 8kw AC. So battery discharge rates are important.
Couldn't see anything about batteries which may be the issue with tripping and your charging issue.
Pylontech US5000 nominal discharge rate 50A but max of 100A so in theory 15mins of 200A.
But you only have 1 set of cables to the batteries. I can almost guarantee the voltage drops low when you attempt to pull more than the 100A 1 cable is rated for. Just use 2 inverter to battery cables and put 1 on each battery, that will give you 200A current capability and should stop the tripping.
The 8.8kw inverter can in theory draw 190A from batteries (when the voltage sags) but at 54v I see 175A max for 9kw discharge to make 8kw AC
You mentioned generetor charging issues
First is your battery charge amps set high enough (190A)
And for the generator... its your grid. Grid amps setting is not amps at 230/240v. Its current at 54.5v which is the typical battery charge voltage.
So 100A would be 5.4kw approx.
But again, those battery cables need doubling up for 200A peak which can only be sustained for 15mins by your batteries
You hit the nail on the head. My power guru gave me another call and mentioned it was the battery amps and that I only have 1 pair of cables at the moment so I need to double them up and I can push the amps to 200.
This is the comment I was looking for. Everyone in the comments was mentioning the problem but nobody was trying to provide the solution. I was wondering why 8.8kw inverter couldn't handle a kettle with high torque load (even with the rest of the appliances running simultaneously), shouldn't be a problem for 8.8kw deye inverter.
Thank you for sharing .
I've researched for some four years regarding generation & use of electrical power .
The ideal point with generating electrical energy is keep the system as simple as possible .
There are variable factors with the initial principle of the use of the electrical energy insofar as electrical appliances requirements ?.
A prime example are the luxuries such as washing machines & hot showers , these are the main devices that would require an inverter , almost every other device can be operated on 12 Volt DC.
Inverters are very inefficient & costly .
If you have 240V AC electrical power supplied from an energy provider then technically you are not living fully off grid .
There are alternatives to become fully off grid , it would require domestic change requirements & using a combination of hydro , sola & wind , even a 12v charge tap to charge a portable lithium ion battery from your quad bike each time you use it , that would run your laptop for example .
By and large practically everything is achievable , it's just the consumption expectations one requires ?, washing machines & electrical hot water tanks will always require huge amounts of power , there are wood burners that will provide cooking facilities & will also heat up water tanks .
All this commercial brain washing about the procedure of washing clothes is very over rated , spin cycles & washing load times & all the rest of it is very over rated , one can wash clothes in cold water left into soak , there's mangles to squeeze out the excess water & so forth .
A good point to look at is how those get by with living on boats for instance , you could incorporate this idea within your home & workplace .
I lived in the south of France in the foothills of the Pyrenees & lived totally off grid using 12 volt DC appliances , I wired a secondary 12 V DC electrical system along side the standard 240 V AC mains ,once I had completed the 12 V DC system , I then had the 240 V AC mains supply disconnected , I left all the AC system in place hence for the eventual sale of the property .
A very thoughtful and well written comment. I agree with you and even considered designing a different kind of washing machine that ran off of the power of the stream (using the momentum to turn the drum) It needs a complete overhaul of the way we think about energy to arrive at this kind of living
@@beyondtheworkbench That is a good idea , although generally clothes washing can be just left in to soak without any rotation , there are hand washing rotators available, just a few turns will be sufficient rest assured , it will simplify everything .
There's also other means of heating water such as a through chimney water tank , complete with celotex insulation board throughout the property you can't go wrong , if anything the property will be too hot in the winter .
for summer water heating you can place black radiators on the roof , you'll need a 12 volt DC water pump , drain the water in wintertime .
You can design an internal water tank in order to prevent winter water freezing , everything can be done without too much work & cost , I designed my property completely internally self contained without any external services apart from the septic tank , it was perfect even with 5 feet of snow .
You'll just need to design the house as if it was a sea vessel , bring everything in on board .
With seasoned wood stock you shan't require gas , though a gas bottle or two placed in a sufficient outside shelter would be fine as a cooking fuel combination option.
Needless to say an external fridge is a must have for winter , if the fridge arrangements are enclosed the daily food won't freeze .
microinverter may let you put cheap little microinverters on power sources that need it for transmission but it can give them a grid source eg solar microinverters a mile away
Ok thank you
Could i ask what setup you have for hydro ie ac to dc conversion
It is just a (relatively) cheap AC/DC rectifier off ebay www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135058604475?chn=ps&_ul=GB&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1f_Z2kjZORZSaaP8qTn68gw23&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=135058604475&targetid=2338077058722&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=20342&poi=&campaignid=17206177401&mkgroupid=165034047246&rlsatarget=aud-1641271186540:pla-2338077058722&abcId=9300866&merchantid=662121627&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Oq2BhCCARIsAA5hubV_qbVTd5JPGisOFXaFfdQtSEvSgHgSgAXcMq9TPqaQZFW8UJzzimwaAnfFEALw_wcB
@@beyondtheworkbench Thanks for sharing, is it wired into the gen port or mppt, I'm struggling to get mine to work
The reason I think u tripping I looks like u have a 5.5kw inverter and not the 8kw. I have a 5kw your look exactly the same as mine. In South africa the 8.8kw have fans on the side. The 5.5kw don't have fans
Definately the 5.5kw unit. The 8.8 kw also has a different form factor for how the unit opens on the panel. Always check the C ratings of the batteries as well which which can make a huge difference to charge and discharge ratings.
I think you are right ( I had initially thought that it looked smaller than the 8kw version I have), if you look at the different kW invertors shown on the video at about 1:46ish to 1:50 they show that the 8kw which I have has only 4 hex screws to hold the panel in place while the 5kw or smaller version has 6 screws on the panel very similar to the invertor on the wall, although I think there is different 8kw sunsynk invertor that is a more recent version of my own, but the label on the side of the invertor should identify what power/type it is. And as in a previous comment the battery c discharge rate can affect how much power can be supplied if only relying on the batteries although if relying on the solar and batteries together (or solar on its own depending) or the max discharge rate set up on the app would cut it off too in an off grid situation.
My power guru pointed out I have the amps set too low on the battery so it trips too early
@@charlesmay1810
There is 2 versions of the 5.5 and 8.8kw.
Ecco and no Ecco.
Bms and rs485ports vary. Inside.
There's a few other changes to the pcb board
@@jarrydrobertson4038 No, it's the 8.8 Ecco version. The 5.5kw doesn't have the PV switch on the side, it is on the underside on the 5.5.
Nice work
Thanks Mark 😁
Hi Can this inverter also work without batteries?
No I dont think so
😂😂😂
Wish i built my system now rather than 9 months ago. Everything is so cheap now
That's a bummer
I use crypto miners to soak up my excess power. They also give off heat witch is great in the winter.
I had 20 antminers back in 2022 so I have been racking my mind as to how to get some here but turning them off when the power is low isn't a great idea as most of them are designed to run constantly. I also made a gpu setup for when ethereum was mineable.
@@beyondtheworkbench Just found your channel, you live off-grid.you do crypto, you build your own internet setup, you use solar+hydro power, seems like you are living my dream life. cheers mate you got a subscriber.
have you checked for earth leakage.
I haven't yet and have to say I am not sure how to
👍
thanks
Sounds like the right inverter for your needs. Micro inverters are for individual solar panels. They are mounted at the back of the solar panel. These days you have also micro inverters to which you can connect two panels. But basically those are two micro inverters inside one housing. A solar panel system with micro inverters is more efficient and durable compared to a system with a single inverter that has to control all the panels from the entire system. For example when you have a micro inverter system and if one panel is in the shade the other panels will still operate at the maximum capacity. And the transistors inside the micro inverters do not have to deal with high voltage and high currents so they last longer. And it allows you to monitor each individual panel. And it is also safer because the micro inverters are not situated inside the house, and you do not have long DC wires all over the place. The output is grid voltage, and that is the only cable that you have to deal with. And you can replace any panel at any given moment with any random panel regardless what brand or power output because each panel has its own micro inverter and the output voltage is always the same.
This information is from the top of my head. The technology improves every day, so I am sure that my information is not complete.
You get much longer warranty on micro inverters compared to conventional indoor wall inverters.
wow well now I know! they sound pretty useful actually so I may well look into those when we come to add any more systems to our energy generation
brill they sound very good@@insAneTunA
@@beyondtheworkbenchLast year I looked into it, and if I was going to install a solar panel system I would most certainly go for a micro inverter system. It costs a little more, but you get more efficiency, more durability, more safety, more monitoring capability, and unlimited flexibility when you want to replace broken panels or to expand the system. It doesn't tie you to a certain form factor.
Guillaume Piton are living now from more 20 years off grid, he does videos and tests with cheap and expensive materials inverters/charger/mppt/battery/solar panel ... (use english subtitles, all documents displayed are read). he was teacher in electricity, and since a lot of years intalls solar, wind turbine projects
What he explains in a video, is to calculate size of your project not when all is well, but when all is bad and when production is the lower during year.
He calculated too 5 days without electricity production, because bad weather, problem with panels, in your case problem with your turbine or no water.
what he concludes is that even if you choose for an all in one inverter or cheap device, finally you need to spend more money to get more solar panels, to produce more, more battery capacity to store more, because your inverter need to run, 5 days, 24/24, and cheap device consumes more energy, and even has lower performance to convert energy from the battery or generator.
Same thing when you produce energy, lower performance to convert energy from mppt to battery, battery to network home
In your case, you convert from your turbin to the mppt from AC to DC too.
What you need to know is, how many I produce, how many finally I can use in my home with this production, how many battery I need, how many inverter comsumes, how many consume the minimum devices i need in my home for this 5 days, cost if I use a generator or if I buy an ecoflow
With a cheap all in one, performance is lower, components convert more energy in heat, and more, all heat is in the same box, and as components have a less quality, with heat, lifetime is lower, so you must change more times you device too or have more chace to have breakdowns, and in this case, the device is not available during not a few days, but months, if the manufacturer accept to repair it, following very closed warranty terms to avoid this, if he decides to not repair, you must replace all the device ...
A good off grid inverter should have a mode stand by/eco to economize energy and get longer lifetime (for solar project, for turbine just to economize battery power in case of no production, because you produce 24/24)
A good off grid inverter should accept 2 times the normal power capacity
your need for an inverter which consumes 10W more tha an other, 24/24 during 5 days, with a performance of 80 % to convert production in usuable electricity (I'm nice with this number, total x 1.2)
power used by inverter :
10 x 5 x 24 = 1200 W
power to produce the day before
1200 x 1.2 = 1440 W
quantity of battery I need (I use 90 % of performance to convert battery energy used by inverter)
1200 x 1.1 = 1320 W
usng the price of 300€ for 1 kW of battery, I have 396€ to spend
To produce 1440W the day before using solar panel, in Scotland the 21th december, the shortest day, with an average of 2 hours of sun, I need around 800W of solar panel, so around 400/500€.
So You will prefer use your generator, or an ecoflow ..., and this has a cost too
Sunsync didn't give what consume their inverters ..., but for a deye 8kw it's around 60W (same product in fact)
A Victron multiplus II 8kW (1400€, has a programming relay to start stop a device like a generator, heating 15kW of peak power) it's 29 W, 1 cerbo gx Victron in option to configure online 2.8W (250€, has a programming relay too), 2mppt SRNE 60A 2x1W (good performance, low consumation, 2x120€), so 35W total power, total price 1890€ in France, 1583 pounds
Difference is around 25W, and it is just if inverter do nothing, so It is sure it will be more if you produce 24/24 and use power of battery for your home ...
then each day you used a very minimum of 25 x 24 = 600W more power (3kW for 5 days)
Performance of sunsynk is around 5 % lower, if your production is 10kw by day, you lose 500W more power (2.5kw for 5 days)
you lose by day, minimum 1100W of power (5.5 kW for 5 days, 400 kW by year, 2000 kW for warranty time) because you have a lower quality and performance inverter, lower lifetime because it has more heat produced and all are in a box and lower quality components, and sunsync price is 1000 pounds more expensive just for the device,to add 2000kW lost, around 560 pounds of electricity for a public network price, very more if you are using your generator ..., then maybe you can pay a professionnal to configure your Victron mutiplus II and even economize money, if you are not capable to do it yourself
sorry for my bad english
Thats so much useful information I will tag the comment so I can refer to it in the future thank you so much
@@beyondtheworkbench
cool if that helps. I just summarized what Guillaume Piton explains. This is for solar projects, but for hydro, you can have periods where the water freezes, a lack of water, or a pipe or turbine problem so you have to think about the deadlines to resolve the problem. ..
For each project, just use the points I've explained to you that you need, and of course, try to get a second source to check it's suitable for your project.
have a nice day
this is great untill you have to fix it
Yea I am not looking forward to that
@@beyondtheworkbench I would highly recommend having some kind of back up even if it is just a couple of car batteries at charge and a spare charge controller and a little plug-in inverter so at least you have some power
Lightweight, high frequency, transformerless inverter like these offer a far poorer surge capacity and a sorter life expectancy than low frequency, transformer based inverters. I would never buy one.
Ah ok thank you
Did not even watch the vid. It is the 5.5kw. Why would you make a vid and say it was the 8kw when it is clearly the 5kw. LOL. Whatever dude! 😂
It is the 8.8kw version?