Recently watched a UK channel talking about this very thing ('Wildlife Photographer UK' Ashley Barnard). He took the lens hood off and the heat haze was gone from his images. The distortion was from the different temperature in the hood to the outside cold. Thought I'd just share this with you Duade.
These honest videos are absolutely great... Someone like me who is on a budget, these videos are very important so I can really make a decision on where my money goes without just looking at specs on paper
Heat haze affects any camera's images, as shown in the video (Jan's R5 images were soft too, due to heat haze). So the specs really didn't come into it. If you mean poor noise/IQ when underexposing in low light with an APS-C camera, that will happen on all APS-C cameras. Even the cheapest FF Canon RP is vastly superior in this regard.
@@cooloox which is good to know when someone buys this lens and thinks they may have wasted their money when they havent... As I said these videos are very important for people like me who are on a budget and don't want to rely on specs on paper, I want real world information
I feel your frustration man. It's something I've talked about in almost every wildlife video I make. Physics is Not your friend, lol. And I've been a physicist for over 20 years now. The more atmosphere you shoot through, the worse your image quality will degrade. Heat haze/atmospheric distortion can happen anywhere, anytime, at any temp, and any elevation if the conditions are right and it will absolutely wreck your images no matter how fancy your gear.
There can also be swirling heat currents inside your lens, softening your images. Most noticeable when first taking the lens out of a warm bag/car/house into a cooler outside environment. The bigger & longer the lens the more problematic this can be. Give a large lens 30 minutes to better equalize in temperature and you should see an improvement in image sharpness. This is on top of the environmental issue you discuss in the video. Hope that helps and love your vids!
Steve Perry has an excellent video on haze caused by the lens hood as well. If you don’t let your gear acclimate to the outside temp for about 10-15 minutes when there are big swings you can actually have a temp difference right in front of the glass. Worth checking out and it’s a great explanation
For those of us in cold climates (like northern Canada), it's especially good on how warm air gets trapped in the lens hood. The link for Steve's video is ua-cam.com/video/B42nXgYUwyo/v-deo.htmlsi=AKY-pSLQcQ8Lj3Qe
Steve’s video is very insightful. I learned to keep the car heater off, open the passenger window and shutoff the vehicle as soon as I arrive at a shoot, especially if shooting from the vehicle. Anytime you have a temperature differential you are risking heat haze, especially with long telephotos.
As well as wildlife I do quite a lot of aviation photography and heat haze is a real problem when trying to shoot aircraft landing or taking off. A case in point is when I was on holiday in Australia last September, I visited the observation area for Perth Airport and the heat haze was so bad O could only shoot aircraft as they took off and where ate least 50 metres up. I was using an R6 with the RF 100-500mm
I live in Spain and this happens to me all the time, specially when photographing over water surfaces. The APSC format makes you try longer distances, which compounds the problem. You just have to be aware of it and try to be closer and avoid certain situations or times of day. Very tricky!
hey duade, your description of how heat haze is produced is pretty much spot on. Air acts no different to a fluid. Hot air is less dense than cold air and therefore rises, not mix with the cold air. light will behave differently through different air densities in that it will distort or bend the light ever so slightly as we see on hot days. The higher the focal length, the more pronounced this will appear. Its a big issue for large telescopes and observatories, hence why some observatories are located on a tall mountain (mauna loa in hawaii comes to mind) because the heat haze or any form of mirage is greatly reduced from the thinner air. I work in environmental and do alot of field work in the west australian goldfields and pilbara but i also get an opportunity to take photos for work. it gets bloody hot there (30-40+) and so photographing a target is impossible at 30 meters and above. the only way to lessen is to get as close to the target as possible so light has less distance to travel and lower the focal range. bit tricky but patience pays off eventually
OMG! Fantastic insight! I can think of a dozen or so times I was unable to get sharp images without any thought of heat haze (or any visible shimmer) but from what you've shared with us I can now see that's what it was! I am now signing up for membership :)
Thank you for this video. I recently bought the RF 200-800 and took it out on my R5 on our first cold morning. Here on the SE Texas coast, it was clear, bright, and 48 degrees f, but the water was warm. Nearly all of my shots were soft. After two months of tack sharp images with this lens I was ready to send it to Canon. I remembered of your video too late, at home. The refuge was so full of birds so I shot a LOT. Later in the day I got a few sharp shots but wow, 3300 shots and less than 20% even worth looking at. You stay so spot on with modern photography that I tell many folks about this channel. Thank you!!!
I shoot with the R5 and RF 100-500 combo and I have experienced this on a few wildlife shoots. Like you, I was shooting early morning in a wet environment. I could not sort out the root cause and it left me pretty frustrated. After each failed shoot, I would set up in the backyard and try to make sense of what was happening. I had presumed that I had somehow made adjustments in setting unintentionally. Thanks for this video. I will be more careful about the weather conditions when I head.
Hi Duade, definitely struck this problem in the early morning in Brisbane lately in swampy areas. Temperature around 25°C and relative humidity around 90%. Day temperatures in the low 30°‘s C means ground warmer early than air. So much for the golden hour. Better a few hours after sunrise. It makes you think of using these super long lenses these days when looking for reach as opposed to just filling the frame. The new OM 150-600 is 1200mm FFE, up to 2400mm FFE it’s a 2x TC. For me 800mm is about as much as you generally want to go unless really good conditions. It’s funny how we are talking about this with the heat of summer and our friends on the other side of the World have the same problem with the cold. I have noticed similar issues if shooting across a light coloured path into a grassed area swampy or not. The shimmer off a warm path can be really impactful even over a short distance.
Thanks for sharing Tony, many good points, yes, I suspect nearly everyone gets impacted by it at some point so I am happy the video has been well recieved and everyone is learning from each other. Cheers, Duade
Thank you for this video. I live in the desert, in the Southwest US, and I’ve experienced this a few times with the RF 100-500. I was stumped as to what was going on until now.
Thanks for this video Duade, I had been mystified why some shots I took of a Wedgetailed Eagle feeding on the roadside in South Australia were so bad, the bird was soft and the dry grass background unbelievably messy. Now I know, heat haze! Keep up the good work!
heat haze Duade is the story of my life, i go to the desert and larks, buntings and babblers are all over me, but all shots and way less than what i get in my garden shots, so i learnt to hold my camera until one lark or something decide to come close about 5 meters or less then i take shots. yes if you stay quite birds will come to you even if you don't use camouflage. and yes car shots during summer time all bad specially if the bird far. thank sa million for answering all my questions about the problem. i live in Jeddah on the Red sea.
I've experienced this in cold temperatures and warm temperatures, in cold temps, removing your lens hood helps and it's also equally important to let your lens adjust to the temp outside.
Brilliant topic. I think the term heat haze is misleading because as you point you, it is heat difference, air disturbance. I do a lot of my photography on a large peatland, and the atmospheric disturbance is terrible at times. I''ve had similar problems over water. These problems even occur when it is freezing, but usually when there is direct sun. I've suddenly thought, there's something wrong with my AF, my lens, shutter shock or whatever. I think the most reliable guide is to look for the plane of focus elsewhere in the image. It's clear with that Coot on your photo, where the vegetation on the sharpest plane of focus, is also fuzzy. If you see, some sharp detail on the plane of focus, elsewhere, your focus is off. On the same peatland site I mention, you will get sharp photos of flying birds at the same time you can't get anything sharp on the ground. I've still to decide whether the 100-500 or 200-800mm to go with my R7, as I'm still using the 100-400mm mkII.
Another great video. Thank you Duade. I have been taking photographs for 62 years. It is the experience of photography that matters to me. To have a, lovely, photo of a bird or animal I saw is what matters. Cheers Judith
Thank you, thank you, thank you Duade! I am so glad that you have provided this video to show us that we / I am not the only one that can go out and not seem to get any sharp or otherwise great bird photos. I have been struggling at times with my R7 and R5 with the highly praised RF 100-500L lens and had similar results no matter how many various camera settings that I have tried based on many different "how to" videos on UA-cam. I will definitely not give up now knowing that heat haze can get us in surprising ways, and also great feedback from the comments supplied by your viewers about taking off the lens hood if there are difficulties in getting sharp photos. I have always used my lens hood, not only for sunny lens flare concerns, but also for general protection against lens damage due to knocks, minor drops, etc. Thanks again for your insightful and comforting videos.
No problem, it is likely an issue shooting from your car or over water etc if there is this variation in temperature. Lens hood is still an important tool to protect your glass but I will remove and reattach to make sure no hot air in hood if I have this issue again. Cheers, Duade
Hi, thank you for this video! I immediately thought about heat haze with the first pic. That's something that I have to deal quite often in France. When that happens to you, try removing the lens hood and putting it back on to replace the trapped hot air from your bag / vehicle. It's hard to believe how good these buckets are at trapping hot air just in front of the lens. Of course, if the heat haze happens further away, between you and the subject, there's not much to do. The first time I noticed this in my photography, I was attemting to take shots just above a road that had time to heat up during the day. I didn't even know about heat haze before that, nor how destructive it can be for image quality.
I watched the same programme, very true. Also beneficial to leave your camera bag in the coldest room in the house overnight before a shoot, leaves less time for your gear to acclimatise when you get to your chosen photo shoot.
A lot of people are quick to blame heat haze but unfortunately I think part of the issue is the lens coating and only 3 elements are UD. This may also explain the issue some have encountered with highlight bleed and white birds looking rather hazy especially when using an APS-C body. I'd like to see a comparison how this lens stacks up to the RF 800mm f11, 100-500mm with 1.4x and the Sigma and Tamron 150-600mm in this regard. I'm guessing it might perform better than the 800 f11 but is on a similar level to the Sigma and Tamron (I had the G2 which was rather hazy in some situations until you stop down to f9, but going to f11 diffraction kicks in). Pangolin Photo Safaris has a review of this lens with a sample comparison with the 800 f5.6 and it's clear that the latter handles heat haze much better. 60X spotting scopes can also handle heat haze quite well, at least for viewing with the human eye but I find that digiscoping is a struggle due to the alignment and fighting between the autofocus of the smartphone and the manual focus of the scope.
06:44 This is very common in cold climates shooting from a vehicle. I leave my heater off, open all windows, and pay attention to the wind to avoid engine heat blowing toward the window I'm shooting out of. It can also be caused by a warm lens/hood, so letting the camera acclimate also helps. However, vapor condenses on cold, hard surfaces, so a cold lens is more vulnerable to fogging up. Avoid fogging by keeping the camera/lens covered or wrapped while moving indoors to let the camera warm up without being exposed to drastically warmer, more humid air. Great video, thanks for sharing--I think I learn more from seeing what doesn't work than seeing everything function ideally.
Hi Duade, I live in Kazakhstan and when I go out in the steppe, heat haze is the bane of my existence!! It was cathartic to hear you discuss it. I try to get shots before the sun starts heating up the ground. It's hot and dry here like in much of Australia (I think...have only been to Sydney :-)
Great video on the effects of heat haze. Excellent sharing of experiences from viewers as well! Acclimatizing your gear is important. Steam fog occurs in the fall when water temperatures don't cool right away but air temperature does.
Great video of an important topic mate. Here in Brazil we have a lot of heat haze, so it's a problem i know very well. But i am sure there are many out there that have been thinking that it is the equipment that was the problem. So this video will for sure be of very good help for many. Wishing you a wonderful weekend. Cheers, Bjoern
I run across this often here in Delaware, USA. The longer the focal length and narrower the field of view, the more exaggerated the effect. Sometimes even the lens hood contributes to the problem. It’s also present at any time of year, hot or cold. As you mentioned, whenever there is a good amount of difference between surface and air temperatures, the heat waves are present. I try to stay away from longer distances with subjects at or near ground level. On really bad days, I’ll concentrate on areas with more shade. Most importantly, on those days I keep reminding myself my gear is fine and the atmosphere is not. Great video on a topic that is mostly overlooked.
Hey Duade! I find it amazing how well our eyes work compared to a camera's AF. Maybe one day, with AI, a lot of distractions that ruin a shot now will be eliminated or greatly reduced. I may be picking up this lens in a few months, so I'm excited to see that great results can be had under the right conditions. Until autofocus gets almost as good as our eyes, we will all need all the advice like this you've been giving the photography community for all of these years! Thank you!
Great video on heat haze, Duade! I definitely encounter heat haze in some of the classic situations you described, but the most surprising to me was up in the Alaskan arctic in summer. My buddies and I kept encountering focus issues and heat haze way more often than our typical shooting to the south. Weird things happen with 22 hours of sunlight!
Atmospheric haze is a common phenomenon in most places. The extra reach of super telephoto lenses just exacerbates the effect. Take the Hood off! @ 06:38 this is one scenario that can be affected by having a hood on. I realize that ‘joanhuggett’ has already posted a comment on this, but I am just reinforcing it, if you will. I have experienced this, and didnt fully understand it until I read about it from ‘Steve Perry,’ a noted and very talented Wildlife Photographer. I continue to be amazed by your Photography skills, and your knowledge of your subjects! Cheers! 👍
Thanks so much for this review. I have to say I was a little panicked to begin with, but when you revealed the heat haze was the problem, I was relieved. I can't stand our hot summers and rarely go out during them. So heat haze is not something I worry about. I look forward to your full review, as I have an R7 and would like to get this lens to give me greater reach shooting the moon and our beautiful birds in wetlands etc. Thanks again Duade.
This reminds me when I first got my Canon 300mm F2.8LIS and the converters I was doing some experiments pixel peeping and seeing awful blur it was supposed to have been Canons sharpest lens. I did eventually figure it out after being devastated for all the money I had spent. It was UK winter freezing outside I was nice and warm inside with the conservatory door open shooting targets outside. I was relieved when I figured it out and went on to enjoy my lens for years even with the 2xII and 1.4xII. All I had to do was just go outside and it was all tack sharp from the garden.
Interesting. I’ve had the same issue with heat haze in the UK. At RSPB Minsmere in Suffolk I got lots of soft images of birds on warm mornings with the R7 and RF 100-500mm lens. I’ve also noticed that the issue of inconsistent eye autofocus with the R7 and 100-500 is not a problem with my recently acquired EF500mm f/4 lens. It locks on the eye quickly and stays there.
I’ve run into it twice. Once on the tundra outside of Nome, Alaska. I was photographing Bristle-thighed Curlews at first light and all the shots were soft from the haze just above the ground. The other time was photographing a Crested Caracara nest in the Sonoran Desert west of Tucson, Arizona. I was about 75 yards from the nest in a saguaro cactus and was getting sharp shots. But the male would often rest in a saguaro that was a couple hundred yards away and the heat haze made it impossible to get any sharp shots of him and his cactus. Video was even worse. Thanks for this video, it’s a good reminder to be aware of the possibility of the heat haze.
Duade, This video is a gift for any wildlife photographer, who uses long lenses in diverse weather conditions. You may have prevented several 200-600mm photographers from thinking something was defective in their RF camera or the lens. Also, several of the contributors' comments added to some other ways to try and avoid the haze. Best of continued quality images to you and thanks for your programs.
Great info to know your environmental conditions and not jump to conclusions on the hardware for sure the R7 is better suited to bright, clear conditions, and then it excels.
Thanks Duade, that's a very useful eye-opener 👍 I heard about it before, but your fellow youtubers never illustrate it as well as you do ;-) It makes sense loner focal lengths are more 'sensitive' to them, simple because they provide the power to shoot more distant birds which puts more disturbed air in between. Heat haze just accumulates over distance. In fact, I'd bet when shooting Garry the Galaa from 5m distance (say in your summer morning day with Garry sitting on the other side of a swimming pool) with the 800/9 or say a 100/2.8 macro, then the 100mm shot might even show more heat haze because Garry isn't framed as tight.
Hi Duade. Thanks for another great and informative video. Heat haze can be a problem even here in the UK (although not that often!) I was using my R5 and 100 - 500 lens to photograph some waders on the other side of a reasonably large expanse of water last September during a spell of really hot (for us) weather, well into the 30’s C. For a while I was convinced there was something wrong with my camera or lens - until it dawned on me and I googled heat haze effects. My images were just like the examples you showed in the video, except I won’t be showing mine to anyone! Of course the effect is worse the longer the lens and the further away the subject is, simply because there is more heat haze affected atmosphere between the subject and the lens. A lesson for us all, mind you the relief when I realised nothing wrong with my equipment was good. I’m pretty sure the problem would be just the same if you were using the Rf 800 f5.6 at 10 X the price. Thanks again. John
Thanks John and totally agree with your comment, sometimes you just have to pack up and try something else. I am just happy people might now have an explanation for why sometimes their images are soft. Cheers, Duade
Duade, I'm glad you made this video. a couple weeks back exactly the same happened to me with the Sony A6700. I was backlit in my situation and a wide open lake on a cold morning as well. I finally just thought that I need to get more familiar with my new camera, as I usually use a full frame camera as well. Right after I noticed my soft photos I went on the other side of the lake where there was more shade that covered the lake and all my photos were sharp.... so your observation makes more sense to me!
Hi Duade, I believe the examples shown are not indicative of Thermal Fluctuation in the air (aka Heat Haze) but are demonstrating another limitation of this lens design (EDIT: see my reply below - as you may still be correct). And you can test this by zooming in and "scrolling" through any high-speed bursts to look for evidence... because those shots will demonstrate a rippling effect. The other thing to note with heat haze is that you won't get fleeing hints of a sharp subject at all... because those rippling thermal waves will produce a consistent shimmer that softens virtually every image at that distance at that location and time. I believe Canon themselves were discussing how this particular lens would benefit from newer FF bodies that could offer better ISO results than APS-C. Of course, everyone wants to use APS-C with a long lens for maximum reach and most are tempted to use a long lens on distant subject where the greater magnification and lower contrast results in greater loss of clarity in SOME instances. If you run over your prior bursts, I think you'll find that this is a failure for the lens to focus due to contrast issues and an inability to keep up with an APS-C sensor's additional magnification... and is not from thermal fluctuation. As the light changes and more contrast occurs, you should see an improvement. Looking at the aperture and unique design of this new lens, the cause is most likely to do with lens contrast influencing the ability for the Eye-Detect AF to remain locked onto the subject. This type of issue is why Canon installed tiny microprocessors inside their EF and RF Lens Extenders to slow down the AF of the lens used. This is done to account for any difference in contrast that would otherwise impact AF reliability. The 2x Extenders are programmed to slow down AF by 75% compared to the 1.4x Extenders... that that's due to the effect that magnification of distant subjects (combined with associated contrast) affects AF accuracy. This new lens unfortunately will have considerable limitations imposed on it due to the specifications, AF failure (under certain circumstances) is a likelihood. This is why other people have experienced the same problems with the new 200-800mm lens when using APS-C.
Thanks for sharing your insights, very interesting. I think the light and contrast do play a massive role in the performance of the AF on the R7. The Swamphen later in the morning was very good due to the light etc. All my morning shots were soft, not a single sharp shot from hundreds of photos which I believe was due to the heat haze but the AF performance no doubt struggles with both heat haze and the reasons you mention re contrast etc. Cheers, Duade
Hi @@Duade - I was discussing the subject of your video with other photographers online who often use long lenses for birding/sports ....and they generally agreed with you. They felt that thermal fluctuation in the air was a very likely explanation for your set of soft images. especially in the morning when shooting over water. I'm sort of on the fence now and have been encouraged to keep an eye on this subject in relation to this specific lens. You may still be correct with your suggestion that heat shimmer was affecting the results. The one image that made me look twice was the profile shot of a duck in silhouette that can be seen at 3:34 on your video. I noticed that one of the insects near the duck's back appeared to be in focus though was not near the head where I imagine the AF would be targeting. I would have expected the entire scene to be soft, including all the bugs in the air that were close to the subject. The sharp(er) insect in that shot suggested to me that the AF was being defeated rather than a uniform softening of the image. And we also saw how the AF reticule was losing traction with the subjects repeatedly in your live video footage. Again, I'm sort of on the fence on this because it's something I don't tend to encounter often, though I have had the occasional soft subject when shooting over distances in the Australian sun - especially over rocks or a hot car-park or even water. With its price range, I would expect to see it embraced by plenty of novice photographers so there's going to be a lot of people showing interest in your video. Again, many thanks for your informative video!
Thanks Duade, a common problem up here in NW NSW, more noticeable on the R7 than the R5 but very frustrating. Heat haze can end the session a lot earlier than planned unfortunately. As always another enjoyable and informative video. Ian
Hi Duade, your timing is impeccable with this video. My friend and I just came back from Hattah last weekend and experienced nothing but heat haze. Admittedly not the ideal time to visit the mallee, but unfortunately came away with about 2000 useless shots! Lesson learnt!😢
Northern U.S. (Wisconsin) here. I have noticed this exact same thing as well while taking photos of birds at our local wildlife areas. This usually happens during the summer as our winters get quite cold and we don't notice heat haze as much during this time. I'm really loving these videos and am getting even more tempted to purchase this lens.
Hello Duade, thank you for sharing this! it's a common phenomenon here in France, especially when I'm in the middle of the water with my floating hide because in addition I'm at water level with my Canon R7 and my RF200-800! an example last week we are in winter here we had 8 to 10° in the morning quite early (in principle it is between -5 and 2 or 3°) the water was at 4 or 5 degrees...In very good weather time the force of the sun's rays quickly warms the surface of the water! It's difficult to get sharp photos in these conditions! A little tip: sometimes removing the sun hood allows you to regain sharpness because the hot air circulating inside it reinforces the problem! This also leads us to a form of humility whatever our equipment, it remains wild photography and fortunately we have no control over certain phenomena, certain disturbances! This is also the beauty of adventure -)
I recently invested in a Nikon Z8 and was keen to get out into the field and start shooting. I went to a wetland with extensive mudflats to photograph some waders. During the session I encountered some Red capped Plovers which I was able to lie down on the mud and get some great shots. Unfortunately to my great disappointment none of the images were sharp. So here I am having invested a small fortune only to get soft images. The same thing happened the following day and has happened on a couple of occasions since. Always the same scenario shooting close to the ground on hot days. Clearly heat haze as I don’t encounter the problem in other situations. It was good to hear that even experienced people like yourself encounter the same issues. Thanks again for the video. I enjoy your channel immensely.
Hi Duade, greetings from South Africa . I really enjoy your channel. We experience heat haze in the Kgalagadi (Kalahari desert) South Africa all time. And something we get often - just like you Aussies. After 9am in Summer it is insane as it is often 30 deg C by then... Someone once told us to just keep the shutter button down and pray and maybe one will get through between the waves... not often, but sometimes... We actually just stop shooting anything further away that cannot fill the frame , besides record shots after 9am. light is gone anyway. I look forward to trying the lens hood trick..... To your point about APS-c and Zoom...back in 2017 we got 7dmk2 and 100-400 because they were supposedly the best Wildlife combo...Had amazing sightings and rubbish shots. All soft in mild conditions. Traded them in for 5D4 immediately. Massive improvement and have stayed Full Frame since then. also learned that for somewhere like Masaai Mara , where one goes to the animals...it would have been fine, But in kgalagadi , where on emust remain on roads and spends all the time shooting at max focal length, it was less than ideal ... Someone else we know got amazing Lion kill shots (sold to BBC) and swears by 7d2 and R7, but he puts them on a 500 f4. I firmly believe that the best combo I had ever shot with was the 1DXmk2 and the EF100-400... They were made for each other... So the rule we use is: never put a zoom on a crop if you want decent SHARP shots, unless you fill the frame and have enough speed and no haze. prime on Crop and Zoom on Full frame... best remains prime on full frame. This is just our lived experience, though the 100-500 on an R5 and the new lensblur slider are becoming ever more compelling. We judge a lot of wildlife/bird pics at club and salon level and the zoom lens on APS-C images are obvious after a while. and R7 will never give the R5 quality... Sadly - with birds and wildlife for competition - Gear matters!! the Big glass and top end bodies will always win the day. all the big competitions publish the camera and lens details... Almost always high end gear...
Anything over 600mm effective focal length will exacerbate the scenario. In Africa on safari the advice I got all the time was keep it below 600mm. It’s incredible how close the animals come toward you and with my 3 months in Africa back in 2014 my 100-400 and 7DMKII combo worked great as the efl is 640 but didn’t often need it unless it was for small birds. Loads of info on the internet about 600+ and heat haze and this new generation of lenses all have the same issue
Is the heater haze problem specific to the new lenses? Or do you mean: now we can afford 600+mm lenses it is getting obvious. While testing my Sigma 150-600 back than 2016 on a crop camera EOS 50D on a sunny day in cornfields I almost gave up: I thought the lens is garbage. Later I realized it’s actually heat haze ☺️
Yes I get heat distortion fairly frequently, when shooting early mornings at the beach or any kind of water. It’s not all the time but certainly happens when I have a really nice shot otherwise. And that’s with the r7 and the 100-400, it happened so much at first I thought the lens or the camera body was defective but the sharp pics are really sharp, and after experimenting I figured out I what it was. There’s a few national wildlife refuges that have wildlife drives where you’re prohibited from getting out of your car, so I’ll stretch that rule in certain cases by turning the car completely off, and leaning halfway out of my window haha.
Doing quite a bit of aviation photography in the, this is a massive issue when shooting planes on the ground. Runways are notorious for getting hot very quickly and with jet exhausts, etc the whole thing can quickly turn into a hazy nightmare.
Another really good informative video. In Scotland, we don't get much in the way of heat haze, I must admit. But even less light and the R7 really struggles with noise as you say. And that's with the exposure nailed on......
Excellent insight. I haven’t experienced that here on Phillip Island but have in the high country around Mt Feathertop where the eucalyptus trees do what they do in the heat.
I was aware of heat haze, but not on the level you explained and showed. My 180-600Z usually sharp tack, was really soft on some low-light shots, couldn't give it a reason. I don't use the hood but stuck a 120€ protection filter in front. Removed it, no more haze, and sharp shot even without the hood. You have to understand... as you did and demonstrated ... the real reason for what's happening, instead of judging the situation "by simple defaults" ... Too many opportunities to take it wrong !!! Heat Haze, Damaged lens, Hot Hood, or a bad copy of the filter .... A great thanks ( as per usual ) to you for sharing your Joy.... both in success and in mystery mistakes !!!!
Thank you for this video. I have experienced the type of soft images you showcased here and for the life of me I could not figure out what was causing this type of image degradation but as soon as I saw your examples, it looked exactly the same as what I was getting, and I knew then that this is what I had been experiencing. I do a lot of nature photographing from my car and never realized that the heat could also be coming from under the car and causing this effect. I live in Houston and do a lot of shooting on the gulf coast. The heat and humidity here in the summer makes it very uncomfortable to shoot outside even in the early morning hours. Shooting from my air-conditioned car is, sometimes, the only way I can get out and get any camera time in the summer. Thank you again for this video. I'll make some changes to the way I shoot from my car, like turning it off and letting the temps equalize a bit now before I start shooting. Cheers!
I had just purchased the EF600mm F4 from Japan to use with my R7 and R8. I took it out to the lake and took some shots of a blue heron that was less than 100 ft away I think. Every shot seemed to have some strange softness to it and I was so worried that I would have to return it all the way to japan! It turns out it was the atmosph😮eric haze and the lens is doing great now.
Thanks for highlighting an important problem, especially with a long lens on a crop sensor. In northern Canada, morning temperatures of -20C are not unusual for most of the winter. As a result, I find that a lens hood creates a lot of haze as I move from inside the car, presumably because the hood traps warm air in front of the lens, where it can take a long time to equilibrate. Steve Perry has done some nice comparisons with and without a lens hood to illustrate the phenomenon. In addition, trying to lean on the car hood to stabilize the camera can create a lot of haze when the engine is warm. These may be more problematic in cold climates, but they're very real.
An experience similar to the guy from Holland, a very cold UK winter's day and stopped the car to get out and take a few shots of Mandarin ducks on an iced-over lake, using the roof and beanbag for support. All were rubbish by even my modest standards which I blamed on the RF600 f11(a handy scapegoat for my many limitations!) until I learned from Simon d'Entremont that - as you rightly say - I was shooting through a heat haze caused by the warm car and, no doubt, a second one rising from the water. Great vid as always!
This winter I was taking photos in -15 °C, also from 20 storey tower, at sunset, and heat haze was present anyway. So temperature changes per se also matter.
That's very cool - contemplating something fundamental about the Universe through the medium of photography. Yep, i've had this exact problem too, and at the same time of day, and in the same environment, and only last week, through an Oly 300 f/2.8 'Big Tuna', and i thought it was me. All the best from across the ditch.
Hello Duade, thank you for sharing this experience and knowledge! In the first minutes I was a bit schocked and for a moment I had abandoned my decision to buy an RF 200-8000 mm later this year. I had problems with heat haze at Frankfurt am Main Airport. I was arround with plane spotters for one and a half year and we also photographed aircrafts on the runways and taxiways. Sometimes the heat haze could be seen with the naked eye. Certainly I have had problems in countries like Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Thailand and so on. But not on the beach or over the sea. Maybe because it's always a bit windy there. I have also heard from proffesional photographers or seen on UA-cam that under certain conditions there can be a build-up of heat in front of the front lens due to the lens hood. But I never consciously noticed that. Anayway - I’m happy to see again that the RF 200-800 mm is a good lens with a good Price-performance ratio. Regards Uwe
Duade, I had a situation like this recently in Kentucky, U.S. I was sitting near my bird/wildlife garden pond on a very cold winter day photographing birds coming in to the water. Air temperature was 7º F, or -14º C. The little pond has a heater in it that keeps the temperature around 34º F (~1º C) to prevent it from freezing over. I got some crazy heat haze on every single photo I tried to take of birds visiting the pond. Like you, I had always thought it would happen in the summer, but this time it happened on a very cold winter day!
Great video, Duade. Last fall (northern hemisphere), I would regularly go to a sunflower field at sunrise to photograph northern harriers hunting. A couple of hours after sunrise, flocks of small songbirds would descend upon the field to dine on any remaining sunflower seeds. If the harriers were hunting elsewhere, I'd photograph the songbirds. But there were several mornings when the heat differential between the ground and the air was enough make the air at ground level unstable. If the songbirds were any more distant than 3-4 meters, I couldn't get sharp images shooting through the disturbed air. If there's no wind to help carry away the ground-level heat and equalize the temperature differential, it can be especially bad.
The other day I was outside photographing in -20C. The sky was cloud free and the sun was shining. The sun reflecting on the snow covered ground made all my shots blurry. I was laying in the snow photographing foxes with my 200-600mm. The auto focus was struggling and none of the pictures was sharp. I also recorded some video and the footage got that wavy blurry look like a hot day on the beach. Great video as always, keep it up!
Hello! I’m so glad you talked about this. I just had this issue recently. I’m sure you’ve gotten a lot of great comments, but I thought I’d share my experiences. The first time I saw this was at the volcano in Iceland a couple of years ago. My shots of flowing lava looked pixelated or like an impressionist painting. I was pretty mystified because I’d seen plenty of good images. A photographer told me it was heat haze. I think it was because I was almost level with the lava and shooting across, but that’s just a theory. My other two experiences were actually in the cold. I was told about it being an issue in Svalbard, and some of my bokeh turned out very oddly even if the subject was okay. I also had a recent experience where it was 4 degrees Fahrenheit and I was shooting bald eagles over open water near a dam. Anything shot over or across the water was soft with that weird looking out of focus area. Overhead and near shots were okay. I had just one keeper somehow that was sharp over the water but the specular highlights were very strange. I believe it’s enhanced by the long lens. I didn’t know about the lens hood trick at the time. That’s worth a try. It is disappointing when you have good opportunities and they just aren’t usable!
I always love your detailed review of the photography gear be it new lenses, or camera bodies. I hope you will test the RF 200-800 mm on the R6 Mk.2 as I am looking forward in future to have this combo. Hoping for a detailed video from your end. Keep up the good work. Cheers...!!!
Hi Duade, Such a good heads up and explanation of what caused the problem. Further to previous comments, just to let you know that I opted for an RF 100-500 to use with my R7, having seen your review I thought that for my use the 200-800 was too extreme. Very pleased with my decision and the results so thanks for your really helpful reviews and summaries. These are so helpful. Cheers mate 👍😊
Another great video Duade! I for one really appreciate your honest and impartial stance when it comes to reviewing gear. Would you be able to get your hands on the recently released OM 150-600? I understand that it is a rebadge of the Sigma Sport DG DN 150-600. Would love to have it compared with something like the R7 and this new R200-800.
Wow, how convenient this video was, because at the moment I watched it I was traveling to Chile for birding. I photographed for a few days in the Andes mountains and as it is summer here, the temperatures and sun are very strong throughout the day and the areas are very open, which makes it difficult to get close to the birds. Most of the species I photographed here had problems with heat haze, as I couldn't get close enough, but when I could, the photos with the Sigma 150-600 and the R7 were perfect and full of details. I had never photographed before in a location where it was so difficult to get sharp shots as it is here.
Great video Duade 👍🏻 Here in the UK it's not as common, it happened to me about a month ago I was belly down in the sand near a beach and the air temp was around 6 degrees Celsius and of course, the sand mud and water were a lot hotter as the beach was sat in the afternoon sun. And I saw a Grey Herron and I got down and took so many shots and then I got home and all of them were really blurry and soft, at the time I didn't give this a thought but it's really frustrating especially when you don't know what's causing it. It can also be caused by the lens hood temp especially if you're shooting out a car door window etc.
Hi Duade, last weekend I was on the field photographing Hen harriers. It was -13 degrees in the morning and everything was frozen, incl grass. And when the sun came out, the "heat haze" from melting ice on the grass completely ruined half day of shooting and recording. I used 200-800 and also tried 100-500, both with same result ofc. :) One thing to add, with 200-800 capabilities I noticed that Im trying to photograph objects which are farther than I would normally photograph with shorter lens. This means much more haze (aggregation in the atmosphere) experiences then before. Its good to realize this. Thx for the video! You are the best, cheers. Tomas
Thanks for sharing your experience Tomas, seems to be an issue everywhere and now more noticeable due to the longer lenses. Have fun with the lens, Cheers, Duade
This actually explains what happened last Saturday when I took a 100-500mm out to test with my R5. . Winter here in Switzerland and was by the lake the sun had a bit of warmth with the mist bruning off. The shots I took over the lake all had issues the ones on land were fine. Cheers for the heads up, good vid 👍
Hi Duade, this is so correct, I had an experience in the high arctic photographing polar bears, or "not". I was using a canon 500mm f4 + 1.4 extender at F5.6, with good shutter speed and low Iso, the bear was a good distance away and all my shots were as blurred as yours, I realised it was also heat haze but did not expect this in the arctic mid summer at 4 degrees C, but I guess the compression of a high magnification amplifies the distortion.
This is so interesting. I have never realised it was heat haze but it makes so much sense now. I am in South Africa and middle afternoon is very hot so I will often be affected by it. I was once in a wetland area and all my shots were soft and i actually took the lense back but we then came to the conclusion it was shakes or something but this makes a lot of sense! Thank you!
Such a great video! Thanks a bunch for expanding on this. Im looking at going to that same combo, R7 +200-800 and i hear/read so much bad about it, but this makes complete sense and makes me feel better about considering that combo
Hey Duade, I actually had this exact issue last weekend with my 200-800 while shooting at a small lake. The ducks were nicely lit on one part of it but only the shots in the shaded parts came out reasonably sharp. I was initially confused but do now also think it was due to heat haze. Just another thing one has to be concious about. Thanks for sharing your experiences! P.S.: and thanks a lot for showcasing my ruddy shelduck shot! I'm super happy you seem to like it as much as I do :)
That explains a lot. Here in northern USA I shoot often (in the winter) from my car. My R10 and RF600 almost always is soft. I switch to my Sigma 150-600 and problem goes away. I never really thought about the heat from the car causing the problem. In the summer, regardless of where I shoot, the R10 and RF600 combo works very well. Thanks Duade!
Recently watched a UK channel talking about this very thing ('Wildlife Photographer UK' Ashley Barnard). He took the lens hood off and the heat haze was gone from his images. The distortion was from the different temperature in the hood to the outside cold. Thought I'd just share this with you Duade.
this is a very interesting insight
Experienced exact same issue with the Sony 200-600, shooting without the lens hood sorted my problems.
@@1964pmitchell i Will definitely try with my R7 + SIGMA 150-600
Another wonderful information! Thanks!
Wow, never heard of this. Must try it out. Thanks.
These honest videos are absolutely great... Someone like me who is on a budget, these videos are very important so I can really make a decision on where my money goes without just looking at specs on paper
Heat haze affects any camera's images, as shown in the video (Jan's R5 images were soft too, due to heat haze). So the specs really didn't come into it.
If you mean poor noise/IQ when underexposing in low light with an APS-C camera, that will happen on all APS-C cameras. Even the cheapest FF Canon RP is vastly superior in this regard.
@@cooloox which is good to know when someone buys this lens and thinks they may have wasted their money when they havent... As I said these videos are very important for people like me who are on a budget and don't want to rely on specs on paper, I want real world information
It is my pleasure, just sharing my experience and learning at the same time. Cheers, Duade
I'm really glad you didn't scrap the video and turned it into a teaching moment! Thanks Duade! Can't wait for the full review!
I feel your frustration man. It's something I've talked about in almost every wildlife video I make. Physics is Not your friend, lol. And I've been a physicist for over 20 years now. The more atmosphere you shoot through, the worse your image quality will degrade. Heat haze/atmospheric distortion can happen anywhere, anytime, at any temp, and any elevation if the conditions are right and it will absolutely wreck your images no matter how fancy your gear.
There can also be swirling heat currents inside your lens, softening your images. Most noticeable when first taking the lens out of a warm bag/car/house into a cooler outside environment. The bigger & longer the lens the more problematic this can be. Give a large lens 30 minutes to better equalize in temperature and you should see an improvement in image sharpness. This is on top of the environmental issue you discuss in the video. Hope that helps and love your vids!
Steve Perry has an excellent video on haze caused by the lens hood as well. If you don’t let your gear acclimate to the outside temp for about 10-15 minutes when there are big swings you can actually have a temp difference right in front of the glass. Worth checking out and it’s a great explanation
For those of us in cold climates (like northern Canada), it's especially good on how warm air gets trapped in the lens hood. The link for Steve's video is ua-cam.com/video/B42nXgYUwyo/v-deo.htmlsi=AKY-pSLQcQ8Lj3Qe
Thanks for sharing, sounds like I need to give that a try, Cheers, Duade
Steve’s video is very insightful. I learned to keep the car heater off, open the passenger window and shutoff the vehicle as soon as I arrive at a shoot, especially if shooting from the vehicle. Anytime you have a temperature differential you are risking heat haze, especially with long telephotos.
I do not see the AF point in my display of my R5 like you do as a blue and/or white square. DoI have to activate this? thanks….
As well as wildlife I do quite a lot of aviation photography and heat haze is a real problem when trying to shoot aircraft landing or taking off. A case in point is when I was on holiday in Australia last September, I visited the observation area for Perth Airport and the heat haze was so bad O could only shoot aircraft as they took off and where ate least 50 metres up. I was using an R6 with the RF 100-500mm
I live in Spain and this happens to me all the time, specially when photographing over water surfaces. The APSC format makes you try longer distances, which compounds the problem. You just have to be aware of it and try to be closer and avoid certain situations or times of day. Very tricky!
Thanks for sharing your experience, Cheers, Duade
Oh god, so good to know this, very many of us think that the gear is the problem.. thanks for this precious information !!!
My pleasure, Cheers, Duade
hey duade,
your description of how heat haze is produced is pretty much spot on. Air acts no different to a fluid. Hot air is less dense than cold air and therefore rises, not mix with the cold air. light will behave differently through different air densities in that it will distort or bend the light ever so slightly as we see on hot days. The higher the focal length, the more pronounced this will appear. Its a big issue for large telescopes and observatories, hence why some observatories are located on a tall mountain (mauna loa in hawaii comes to mind) because the heat haze or any form of mirage is greatly reduced from the thinner air.
I work in environmental and do alot of field work in the west australian goldfields and pilbara but i also get an opportunity to take photos for work. it gets bloody hot there (30-40+) and so photographing a target is impossible at 30 meters and above. the only way to lessen is to get as close to the target as possible so light has less distance to travel and lower the focal range. bit tricky but patience pays off eventually
Um, air is a fluid
Thanks for sharing mate, I appreciate it, some great wildlife out your way. Cheers, Duade
OMG! Fantastic insight! I can think of a dozen or so times I was unable to get sharp images without any thought of heat haze (or any visible shimmer) but from what you've shared with us I can now see that's what it was! I am now signing up for membership :)
Thank you for this video. I recently bought the RF 200-800 and took it out on my R5 on our first cold morning. Here on the SE Texas coast, it was clear, bright, and 48 degrees f, but the water was warm. Nearly all of my shots were soft. After two months of tack sharp images with this lens I was ready to send it to Canon. I remembered of your video too late, at home. The refuge was so full of birds so I shot a LOT. Later in the day I got a few sharp shots but wow, 3300 shots and less than 20% even worth looking at. You stay so spot on with modern photography that I tell many folks about this channel. Thank you!!!
I shoot with the R5 and RF 100-500 combo and I have experienced this on a few wildlife shoots. Like you, I was shooting early morning in a wet environment. I could not sort out the root cause and it left me pretty frustrated. After each failed shoot, I would set up in the backyard and try to make sense of what was happening. I had presumed that I had somehow made adjustments in setting unintentionally. Thanks for this video. I will be more careful about the weather conditions when I head.
Hi Duade, definitely struck this problem in the early morning in Brisbane lately in swampy areas. Temperature around 25°C and relative humidity around 90%. Day temperatures in the low 30°‘s C means ground warmer early than air. So much for the golden hour. Better a few hours after sunrise. It makes you think of using these super long lenses these days when looking for reach as opposed to just filling the frame. The new OM 150-600 is 1200mm FFE, up to 2400mm FFE it’s a 2x TC. For me 800mm is about as much as you generally want to go unless really good conditions. It’s funny how we are talking about this with the heat of summer and our friends on the other side of the World have the same problem with the cold. I have noticed similar issues if shooting across a light coloured path into a grassed area swampy or not. The shimmer off a warm path can be really impactful even over a short distance.
Thanks for sharing Tony, many good points, yes, I suspect nearly everyone gets impacted by it at some point so I am happy the video has been well recieved and everyone is learning from each other. Cheers, Duade
This explains a few things that I've experienced when using my longer lenses.
Thanks for this, Duade.
My pleasure, Cheers, Duade
Thank you for this video. I live in the desert, in the Southwest US, and I’ve experienced this a few times with the RF 100-500. I was stumped as to what was going on until now.
Thanks for this video Duade, I had been mystified why some shots I took of a Wedgetailed Eagle feeding on the roadside in South Australia were so bad, the bird was soft and the dry grass background unbelievably messy. Now I know, heat haze! Keep up the good work!
heat haze Duade is the story of my life, i go to the desert and larks, buntings and babblers are all over me, but all shots and way less than what i get in my garden shots, so i learnt to hold my camera until one lark or something decide to come close about 5 meters or less then i take shots. yes if you stay quite birds will come to you even if you don't use camouflage. and yes car shots during summer time all bad specially if the bird far.
thank sa million for answering all my questions about the problem. i live in Jeddah on the Red sea.
I've experienced this in cold temperatures and warm temperatures, in cold temps, removing your lens hood helps and it's also equally important to let your lens adjust to the temp outside.
Brilliant topic. I think the term heat haze is misleading because as you point you, it is heat difference, air disturbance. I do a lot of my photography on a large peatland, and the atmospheric disturbance is terrible at times. I''ve had similar problems over water. These problems even occur when it is freezing, but usually when there is direct sun. I've suddenly thought, there's something wrong with my AF, my lens, shutter shock or whatever. I think the most reliable guide is to look for the plane of focus elsewhere in the image. It's clear with that Coot on your photo, where the vegetation on the sharpest plane of focus, is also fuzzy. If you see, some sharp detail on the plane of focus, elsewhere, your focus is off. On the same peatland site I mention, you will get sharp photos of flying birds at the same time you can't get anything sharp on the ground. I've still to decide whether the 100-500 or 200-800mm to go with my R7, as I'm still using the 100-400mm mkII.
Another great video. Thank you Duade. I have been taking photographs for 62 years. It is the experience of photography that matters to me. To have a, lovely, photo of a bird or animal I saw is what matters. Cheers Judith
Thank you, thank you, thank you Duade! I am so glad that you have provided this video to show us that we / I am not the only one that can go out and not seem to get any sharp or otherwise great bird photos. I have been struggling at times with my R7 and R5 with the highly praised RF 100-500L lens and had similar results no matter how many various camera settings that I have tried based on many different "how to" videos on UA-cam. I will definitely not give up now knowing that heat haze can get us in surprising ways, and also great feedback from the comments supplied by your viewers about taking off the lens hood if there are difficulties in getting sharp photos. I have always used my lens hood, not only for sunny lens flare concerns, but also for general protection against lens damage due to knocks, minor drops, etc. Thanks again for your insightful and comforting videos.
No problem, it is likely an issue shooting from your car or over water etc if there is this variation in temperature. Lens hood is still an important tool to protect your glass but I will remove and reattach to make sure no hot air in hood if I have this issue again. Cheers, Duade
Hi, thank you for this video!
I immediately thought about heat haze with the first pic. That's something that I have to deal quite often in France. When that happens to you, try removing the lens hood and putting it back on to replace the trapped hot air from your bag / vehicle. It's hard to believe how good these buckets are at trapping hot air just in front of the lens. Of course, if the heat haze happens further away, between you and the subject, there's not much to do.
The first time I noticed this in my photography, I was attemting to take shots just above a road that had time to heat up during the day. I didn't even know about heat haze before that, nor how destructive it can be for image quality.
Thanks for sharing and great tips, Cheers, Duade
@@Duade Thank you for sharing all your experiences !
I watched the same programme, very true. Also beneficial to leave your camera bag in the coldest room in the house overnight before a shoot, leaves less time for your gear to acclimatise when you get to your chosen photo shoot.
A lot of people are quick to blame heat haze but unfortunately I think part of the issue is the lens coating and only 3 elements are UD. This may also explain the issue some have encountered with highlight bleed and white birds looking rather hazy especially when using an APS-C body. I'd like to see a comparison how this lens stacks up to the RF 800mm f11, 100-500mm with 1.4x and the Sigma and Tamron 150-600mm in this regard. I'm guessing it might perform better than the 800 f11 but is on a similar level to the Sigma and Tamron (I had the G2 which was rather hazy in some situations until you stop down to f9, but going to f11 diffraction kicks in). Pangolin Photo Safaris has a review of this lens with a sample comparison with the 800 f5.6 and it's clear that the latter handles heat haze much better. 60X spotting scopes can also handle heat haze quite well, at least for viewing with the human eye but I find that digiscoping is a struggle due to the alignment and fighting between the autofocus of the smartphone and the manual focus of the scope.
The contrast between those early photos and the sharp swamphen is insane - great video!
06:44 This is very common in cold climates shooting from a vehicle. I leave my heater off, open all windows, and pay attention to the wind to avoid engine heat blowing toward the window I'm shooting out of. It can also be caused by a warm lens/hood, so letting the camera acclimate also helps. However, vapor condenses on cold, hard surfaces, so a cold lens is more vulnerable to fogging up. Avoid fogging by keeping the camera/lens covered or wrapped while moving indoors to let the camera warm up without being exposed to drastically warmer, more humid air.
Great video, thanks for sharing--I think I learn more from seeing what doesn't work than seeing everything function ideally.
Hi Duade, I live in Kazakhstan and when I go out in the steppe, heat haze is the bane of my existence!! It was cathartic to hear you discuss it. I try to get shots before the sun starts heating up the ground. It's hot and dry here like in much of Australia (I think...have only been to Sydney :-)
Thanks for sharing!
Great video on the effects of heat haze. Excellent sharing of experiences from viewers as well! Acclimatizing your gear is important. Steam fog occurs in the fall when water temperatures don't cool right away but air temperature does.
Thanks Winston, yes, wonderful comments and community input. Cheers, Duade
Great video of an important topic mate. Here in Brazil we have a lot of heat haze, so it's a problem i know very well. But i am sure there are many out there that have been thinking that it is the equipment that was the problem. So this video will for sure be of very good help for many.
Wishing you a wonderful weekend.
Cheers, Bjoern
I have experienced this on cold mornings in florida. Did not realize this was the reason. Thanks for pointing this out.
Good video. Great topic, Duade. I like a lot of the comments on this, too. Some sharp viewers out there.
Thanks mate, yes a lovely community where we learn together. Cheers, Duade
Thanks for sharing this video Duade!!
Just ANOTHER obstacle us photographers have to contend with......
I run across this often here in Delaware, USA. The longer the focal length and narrower the field of view, the more exaggerated the effect. Sometimes even the lens hood contributes to the problem. It’s also present at any time of year, hot or cold. As you mentioned, whenever there is a good amount of difference between surface and air temperatures, the heat waves are present. I try to stay away from longer distances with subjects at or near ground level. On really bad days, I’ll concentrate on areas with more shade. Most importantly, on those days I keep reminding myself my gear is fine and the atmosphere is not. Great video on a topic that is mostly overlooked.
I hadn't thought of heat haze being an issue like that before. Interesting and worth keeping in mind.
I had the same problem at lake Naruko in Kenya.
Hey Duade! I find it amazing how well our eyes work compared to a camera's AF. Maybe one day, with AI, a lot of distractions that ruin a shot now will be eliminated or greatly reduced. I may be picking up this lens in a few months, so I'm excited to see that great results can be had under the right conditions. Until autofocus gets almost as good as our eyes, we will all need all the advice like this you've been giving the photography community for all of these years! Thank you!
Great video on heat haze, Duade! I definitely encounter heat haze in some of the classic situations you described, but the most surprising to me was up in the Alaskan arctic in summer. My buddies and I kept encountering focus issues and heat haze way more often than our typical shooting to the south. Weird things happen with 22 hours of sunlight!
Atmospheric haze is a common phenomenon in most places. The extra reach of super telephoto lenses just exacerbates the effect.
Take the Hood off! @ 06:38 this is one scenario that can be affected by having a hood on. I realize that ‘joanhuggett’ has already posted a comment on this, but I am just reinforcing it, if you will. I have experienced this, and didnt fully understand it until I read about it from ‘Steve Perry,’ a noted and very talented Wildlife Photographer.
I continue to be amazed by your Photography skills, and your knowledge of your subjects! Cheers! 👍
Thanks so much for this review. I have to say I was a little panicked to begin with, but when you revealed the heat haze was the problem, I was relieved. I can't stand our hot summers and rarely go out during them. So heat haze is not something I worry about. I look forward to your full review, as I have an R7 and would like to get this lens to give me greater reach shooting the moon and our beautiful birds in wetlands etc. Thanks again Duade.
Your videos always make my day better thanks so much for all the work you put in to them 🤙
And I'm pretty new so I haven't experienced heat haze 😁
This reminds me when I first got my Canon 300mm F2.8LIS and the converters I was doing some experiments pixel peeping and seeing awful blur it was supposed to have been Canons sharpest lens. I did eventually figure it out after being devastated for all the money I had spent. It was UK winter freezing outside I was nice and warm inside with the conservatory door open shooting targets outside. I was relieved when I figured it out and went on to enjoy my lens for years even with the 2xII and 1.4xII. All I had to do was just go outside and it was all tack sharp from the garden.
Interesting. I’ve had the same issue with heat haze in the UK. At RSPB Minsmere in Suffolk I got lots of soft images of birds on warm mornings with the R7 and RF 100-500mm lens. I’ve also noticed that the issue of inconsistent eye autofocus with the R7 and 100-500 is not a problem with my recently acquired EF500mm f/4 lens. It locks on the eye quickly and stays there.
I’ve run into it twice. Once on the tundra outside of Nome, Alaska. I was photographing Bristle-thighed Curlews at first light and all the shots were soft from the haze just above the ground. The other time was photographing a Crested Caracara nest in the Sonoran Desert west of Tucson, Arizona. I was about 75 yards from the nest in a saguaro cactus and was getting sharp shots. But the male would often rest in a saguaro that was a couple hundred yards away and the heat haze made it impossible to get any sharp shots of him and his cactus. Video was even worse. Thanks for this video, it’s a good reminder to be aware of the possibility of the heat haze.
Thanks mate, yes, with our long lenses I think heat haze may impact us more than we often realise. Cheers, Duade
Duade, This video is a gift for any wildlife photographer, who uses long lenses in diverse weather conditions. You may have prevented several 200-600mm photographers from thinking something was defective in their RF camera or the lens. Also, several of the contributors' comments added to some other ways to try and avoid the haze. Best of continued quality images to you and thanks for your programs.
Great info to know your environmental conditions and not jump to conclusions on the hardware for sure the R7 is better suited to bright, clear conditions, and then it excels.
Thanks mate, totally agree, Cheers, Duade
Thanks Duade, that's a very useful eye-opener 👍 I heard about it before, but your fellow youtubers never illustrate it as well as you do ;-)
It makes sense loner focal lengths are more 'sensitive' to them, simple because they provide the power to shoot more distant birds which puts more disturbed air in between. Heat haze just accumulates over distance.
In fact, I'd bet when shooting Garry the Galaa from 5m distance (say in your summer morning day with Garry sitting on the other side of a swimming pool) with the 800/9 or say a 100/2.8 macro, then the 100mm shot might even show more heat haze because Garry isn't framed as tight.
Hi Duade. Thanks for another great and informative video. Heat haze can be a problem even here in the UK (although not that often!) I was using my R5 and 100 - 500 lens to photograph some waders on the other side of a reasonably large expanse of water last September during a spell of really hot (for us) weather, well into the 30’s C. For a while I was convinced there was something wrong with my camera or lens - until it dawned on me and I googled heat haze effects. My images were just like the examples you showed in the video, except I won’t be showing mine to anyone! Of course the effect is worse the longer the lens and the further away the subject is, simply because there is more heat haze affected atmosphere between the subject and the lens. A lesson for us all, mind you the relief when I realised nothing wrong with my equipment was good. I’m pretty sure the problem would be just the same if you were using the Rf 800 f5.6 at 10 X the price. Thanks again. John
Thanks John and totally agree with your comment, sometimes you just have to pack up and try something else. I am just happy people might now have an explanation for why sometimes their images are soft. Cheers, Duade
Duade, I'm glad you made this video. a couple weeks back exactly the same happened to me with the Sony A6700. I was backlit in my situation and a wide open lake on a cold morning as well. I finally just thought that I need to get more familiar with my new camera, as I usually use a full frame camera as well. Right after I noticed my soft photos I went on the other side of the lake where there was more shade that covered the lake and all my photos were sharp.... so your observation makes more sense to me!
Hi Duade, I believe the examples shown are not indicative of Thermal Fluctuation in the air (aka Heat Haze) but are demonstrating another limitation of this lens design (EDIT: see my reply below - as you may still be correct). And you can test this by zooming in and "scrolling" through any high-speed bursts to look for evidence... because those shots will demonstrate a rippling effect. The other thing to note with heat haze is that you won't get fleeing hints of a sharp subject at all... because those rippling thermal waves will produce a consistent shimmer that softens virtually every image at that distance at that location and time. I believe Canon themselves were discussing how this particular lens would benefit from newer FF bodies that could offer better ISO results than APS-C. Of course, everyone wants to use APS-C with a long lens for maximum reach and most are tempted to use a long lens on distant subject where the greater magnification and lower contrast results in greater loss of clarity in SOME instances. If you run over your prior bursts, I think you'll find that this is a failure for the lens to focus due to contrast issues and an inability to keep up with an APS-C sensor's additional magnification... and is not from thermal fluctuation. As the light changes and more contrast occurs, you should see an improvement. Looking at the aperture and unique design of this new lens, the cause is most likely to do with lens contrast influencing the ability for the Eye-Detect AF to remain locked onto the subject.
This type of issue is why Canon installed tiny microprocessors inside their EF and RF Lens Extenders to slow down the AF of the lens used. This is done to account for any difference in contrast that would otherwise impact AF reliability. The 2x Extenders are programmed to slow down AF by 75% compared to the 1.4x Extenders... that that's due to the effect that magnification of distant subjects (combined with associated contrast) affects AF accuracy. This new lens unfortunately will have considerable limitations imposed on it due to the specifications, AF failure (under certain circumstances) is a likelihood. This is why other people have experienced the same problems with the new 200-800mm lens when using APS-C.
Thanks for sharing your insights, very interesting. I think the light and contrast do play a massive role in the performance of the AF on the R7. The Swamphen later in the morning was very good due to the light etc. All my morning shots were soft, not a single sharp shot from hundreds of photos which I believe was due to the heat haze but the AF performance no doubt struggles with both heat haze and the reasons you mention re contrast etc. Cheers, Duade
Hi @@Duade - I was discussing the subject of your video with other photographers online who often use long lenses for birding/sports ....and they generally agreed with you. They felt that thermal fluctuation in the air was a very likely explanation for your set of soft images. especially in the morning when shooting over water. I'm sort of on the fence now and have been encouraged to keep an eye on this subject in relation to this specific lens. You may still be correct with your suggestion that heat shimmer was affecting the results.
The one image that made me look twice was the profile shot of a duck in silhouette that can be seen at 3:34 on your video. I noticed that one of the insects near the duck's back appeared to be in focus though was not near the head where I imagine the AF would be targeting. I would have expected the entire scene to be soft, including all the bugs in the air that were close to the subject. The sharp(er) insect in that shot suggested to me that the AF was being defeated rather than a uniform softening of the image. And we also saw how the AF reticule was losing traction with the subjects repeatedly in your live video footage. Again, I'm sort of on the fence on this because it's something I don't tend to encounter often, though I have had the occasional soft subject when shooting over distances in the Australian sun - especially over rocks or a hot car-park or even water. With its price range, I would expect to see it embraced by plenty of novice photographers so there's going to be a lot of people showing interest in your video.
Again, many thanks for your informative video!
Thanks, it could well be a combination of both, but yes, it will be interesting to see how the lens performs over time. Cheers, Duade@@MarcoNeroDesign
Great video Duade. Makes total sense and explains why the higher shots (moon, birds in flight) weren't suffering as much.
Thanks Duade, a common problem up here in NW NSW, more noticeable on the R7 than the R5 but very frustrating. Heat haze can end the session a lot earlier than planned unfortunately. As always another enjoyable and informative video. Ian
Hi Duade, your timing is impeccable with this video. My friend and I just came back from Hattah last weekend and experienced nothing but heat haze. Admittedly not the ideal time to visit the mallee, but unfortunately came away with about 2000 useless shots! Lesson learnt!😢
Northern U.S. (Wisconsin) here. I have noticed this exact same thing as well while taking photos of birds at our local wildlife areas. This usually happens during the summer as our winters get quite cold and we don't notice heat haze as much during this time. I'm really loving these videos and am getting even more tempted to purchase this lens.
No limit of learning new things for photography. Thank you very very very much...
Hello Duade, thank you for sharing this! it's a common phenomenon here in France, especially when I'm in the middle of the water with my floating hide because in addition I'm at water level with my Canon R7 and my RF200-800! an example last week we are in winter here we had 8 to 10° in the morning quite early (in principle it is between -5 and 2 or 3°) the water was at 4 or 5 degrees...In very good weather time the force of the sun's rays quickly warms the surface of the water! It's difficult to get sharp photos in these conditions! A little tip: sometimes removing the sun hood allows you to regain sharpness because the hot air circulating inside it reinforces the problem! This also leads us to a form of humility whatever our equipment, it remains wild photography and fortunately we have no control over certain phenomena, certain disturbances! This is also the beauty of adventure -)
I recently invested in a Nikon Z8 and was keen to get out into the field and start shooting.
I went to a wetland with extensive mudflats to photograph some waders.
During the session I encountered some Red capped Plovers which I was able to lie down on the mud and get some great shots.
Unfortunately to my great disappointment none of the images were sharp.
So here I am having invested a small fortune only to get soft images.
The same thing happened the following day and has happened on a couple of occasions since.
Always the same scenario shooting close to the ground on hot days.
Clearly heat haze as I don’t encounter the problem in other situations.
It was good to hear that even experienced people like yourself encounter the same issues.
Thanks again for the video.
I enjoy your channel immensely.
It's so good having this info that you and Jan provide. Helps so much. Thanks.
Hi Duade, greetings from South Africa . I really enjoy your channel.
We experience heat haze in the Kgalagadi (Kalahari desert) South Africa all time. And something we get often - just like you Aussies. After 9am in Summer it is insane as it is often 30 deg C by then...
Someone once told us to just keep the shutter button down and pray and maybe one will get through between the waves... not often, but sometimes... We actually just stop shooting anything further away that cannot fill the frame , besides record shots after 9am. light is gone anyway. I look forward to trying the lens hood trick.....
To your point about APS-c and Zoom...back in 2017 we got 7dmk2 and 100-400 because they were supposedly the best Wildlife combo...Had amazing sightings and rubbish shots. All soft in mild conditions. Traded them in for 5D4 immediately. Massive improvement and have stayed Full Frame since then. also learned that for somewhere like Masaai Mara , where one goes to the animals...it would have been fine, But in kgalagadi , where on emust remain on roads and spends all the time shooting at max focal length, it was less than ideal ...
Someone else we know got amazing Lion kill shots (sold to BBC) and swears by 7d2 and R7, but he puts them on a 500 f4.
I firmly believe that the best combo I had ever shot with was the 1DXmk2 and the EF100-400... They were made for each other...
So the rule we use is: never put a zoom on a crop if you want decent SHARP shots, unless you fill the frame and have enough speed and no haze.
prime on Crop and Zoom on Full frame... best remains prime on full frame.
This is just our lived experience, though the 100-500 on an R5 and the new lensblur slider are becoming ever more compelling.
We judge a lot of wildlife/bird pics at club and salon level and the zoom lens on APS-C images are obvious after a while. and R7 will never give the R5 quality...
Sadly - with birds and wildlife for competition - Gear matters!! the Big glass and top end bodies will always win the day.
all the big competitions publish the camera and lens details... Almost always high end gear...
Anything over 600mm effective focal length will exacerbate the scenario. In Africa on safari the advice I got all the time was keep it below 600mm. It’s incredible how close the animals come toward you and with my 3 months in Africa back in 2014 my 100-400 and 7DMKII combo worked great as the efl is 640 but didn’t often need it unless it was for small birds. Loads of info on the internet about 600+ and heat haze and this new generation of lenses all have the same issue
Is the heater haze problem specific to the new lenses? Or do you mean: now we can afford 600+mm lenses it is getting obvious.
While testing my Sigma 150-600 back than 2016 on a crop camera EOS 50D on a sunny day in cornfields I almost gave up: I thought the lens is garbage. Later I realized it’s actually heat haze ☺️
Yes I get heat distortion fairly frequently, when shooting early mornings at the beach or any kind of water. It’s not all the time but certainly happens when I have a really nice shot otherwise. And that’s with the r7 and the 100-400, it happened so much at first I thought the lens or the camera body was defective but the sharp pics are really sharp, and after experimenting I figured out I what it was. There’s a few national wildlife refuges that have wildlife drives where you’re prohibited from getting out of your car, so I’ll stretch that rule in certain cases by turning the car completely off, and leaning halfway out of my window haha.
Thanks for sharing mate and glad you figured it out on your own, can be very frustrating and confusing otherwise. Good idea re the car. Cheers, Duade
Doing quite a bit of aviation photography in the, this is a massive issue when shooting planes on the ground. Runways are notorious for getting hot very quickly and with jet exhausts, etc the whole thing can quickly turn into a hazy nightmare.
Excellent reminder, thanks Duade! Fabulous video!
Another really good informative video. In Scotland, we don't get much in the way of heat haze, I must admit. But even less light and the R7 really struggles with noise as you say. And that's with the exposure nailed on......
Excellent insight. I haven’t experienced that here on Phillip Island but have in the high country around Mt Feathertop where the eucalyptus trees do what they do in the heat.
I was aware of heat haze, but not on the level you explained and showed.
My 180-600Z usually sharp tack, was really soft on some low-light shots, couldn't give it a reason.
I don't use the hood but stuck a 120€ protection filter in front. Removed it, no more haze, and sharp shot even without the hood.
You have to understand... as you did and demonstrated ... the real reason for what's happening, instead of judging the situation "by simple defaults" ...
Too many opportunities to take it wrong !!! Heat Haze, Damaged lens, Hot Hood, or a bad copy of the filter ....
A great thanks ( as per usual ) to you for sharing your Joy.... both in success and in mystery mistakes !!!!
Thank you for this video. I have experienced the type of soft images you showcased here and for the life of me I could not figure out what was causing this type of image degradation but as soon as I saw your examples, it looked exactly the same as what I was getting, and I knew then that this is what I had been experiencing. I do a lot of nature photographing from my car and never realized that the heat could also be coming from under the car and causing this effect. I live in Houston and do a lot of shooting on the gulf coast. The heat and humidity here in the summer makes it very uncomfortable to shoot outside even in the early morning hours. Shooting from my air-conditioned car is, sometimes, the only way I can get out and get any camera time in the summer. Thank you again for this video. I'll make some changes to the way I shoot from my car, like turning it off and letting the temps equalize a bit now before I start shooting. Cheers!
Very interesting! I would not have thought of this! Thanks for sharing. My lens arrives next week! Can't wait to test it out! Jodes.
I had just purchased the EF600mm F4 from Japan to use with my R7 and R8. I took it out to the lake and took some shots of a blue heron that was less than 100 ft away I think. Every shot seemed to have some strange softness to it and I was so worried that I would have to return it all the way to japan! It turns out it was the atmosph😮eric haze and the lens is doing great now.
Thanks for highlighting an important problem, especially with a long lens on a crop sensor. In northern Canada, morning temperatures of -20C are not unusual for most of the winter. As a result, I find that a lens hood creates a lot of haze as I move from inside the car, presumably because the hood traps warm air in front of the lens, where it can take a long time to equilibrate. Steve Perry has done some nice comparisons with and without a lens hood to illustrate the phenomenon. In addition, trying to lean on the car hood to stabilize the camera can create a lot of haze when the engine is warm. These may be more problematic in cold climates, but they're very real.
An experience similar to the guy from Holland, a very cold UK winter's day and stopped the car to get out and take a few shots of Mandarin ducks on an iced-over lake, using the roof and beanbag for support. All were rubbish by even my modest standards which I blamed on the RF600 f11(a handy scapegoat for my many limitations!) until I learned from Simon d'Entremont that - as you rightly say - I was shooting through a heat haze caused by the warm car and, no doubt, a second one rising from the water. Great vid as always!
Have an R7 and contemplating upgrading to the 200-800. Very useful video, thank you Duade
Thanks mate, will try and get some more shots for the review, Cheers, Duade
This winter I was taking photos in -15 °C, also from 20 storey tower, at sunset, and heat haze was present anyway. So temperature changes per se also matter.
Fantastic as always!
Thank you Duade 😊👍🏻
That's very cool - contemplating something fundamental about the Universe through the medium of photography. Yep, i've had this exact problem too, and at the same time of day, and in the same environment, and only last week, through an Oly 300 f/2.8 'Big Tuna', and i thought it was me. All the best from across the ditch.
Hello Duade, thank you for sharing this experience and knowledge!
In the first minutes I was a bit schocked and for a moment I had abandoned my decision to buy an RF 200-8000 mm later this year.
I had problems with heat haze at Frankfurt am Main Airport. I was arround with plane spotters for one and a half year and we also photographed aircrafts on the runways and taxiways. Sometimes the heat haze could be seen with the naked eye. Certainly I have had problems in countries like Sri Lanka, Vietnam, Thailand and so on. But not on the beach or over the sea. Maybe because it's always a bit windy there.
I have also heard from proffesional photographers or seen on UA-cam that under certain conditions there can be a build-up of heat in front of the front lens due to the lens hood. But I never consciously noticed that.
Anayway - I’m happy to see again that the RF 200-800 mm is a good lens with a good Price-performance ratio.
Regards
Uwe
Duade, I had a situation like this recently in Kentucky, U.S. I was sitting near my bird/wildlife garden pond on a very cold winter day photographing birds coming in to the water. Air temperature was 7º F, or -14º C. The little pond has a heater in it that keeps the temperature around 34º F (~1º C) to prevent it from freezing over. I got some crazy heat haze on every single photo I tried to take of birds visiting the pond. Like you, I had always thought it would happen in the summer, but this time it happened on a very cold winter day!
Thanks for sharing mate, very interesting, what lucky birds to have a hot springs in your back yard :-) Cheers, Duade
Great video, Duade. Last fall (northern hemisphere), I would regularly go to a sunflower field at sunrise to photograph northern harriers hunting. A couple of hours after sunrise, flocks of small songbirds would descend upon the field to dine on any remaining sunflower seeds. If the harriers were hunting elsewhere, I'd photograph the songbirds. But there were several mornings when the heat differential between the ground and the air was enough make the air at ground level unstable. If the songbirds were any more distant than 3-4 meters, I couldn't get sharp images shooting through the disturbed air. If there's no wind to help carry away the ground-level heat and equalize the temperature differential, it can be especially bad.
The other day I was outside photographing in -20C. The sky was cloud free and the sun was shining. The sun reflecting on the snow covered ground made all my shots blurry. I was laying in the snow photographing foxes with my 200-600mm. The auto focus was struggling and none of the pictures was sharp. I also recorded some video and the footage got that wavy blurry look like a hot day on the beach.
Great video as always, keep it up!
Hello! I’m so glad you talked about this. I just had this issue recently. I’m sure you’ve gotten a lot of great comments, but I thought I’d share my experiences. The first time I saw this was at the volcano in Iceland a couple of years ago. My shots of flowing lava looked pixelated or like an impressionist painting. I was pretty mystified because I’d seen plenty of good images. A photographer told me it was heat haze. I think it was because I was almost level with the lava and shooting across, but that’s just a theory. My other two experiences were actually in the cold. I was told about it being an issue in Svalbard, and some of my bokeh turned out very oddly even if the subject was okay. I also had a recent experience where it was 4 degrees Fahrenheit and I was shooting bald eagles over open water near a dam. Anything shot over or across the water was soft with that weird looking out of focus area. Overhead and near shots were okay. I had just one keeper somehow that was sharp over the water but the specular highlights were very strange. I believe it’s enhanced by the long lens. I didn’t know about the lens hood trick at the time. That’s worth a try. It is disappointing when you have good opportunities and they just aren’t usable!
I always love your detailed review of the photography gear be it new lenses, or camera bodies. I hope you will test the RF 200-800 mm on the R6 Mk.2 as I am looking forward in future to have this combo. Hoping for a detailed video from your end. Keep up the good work. Cheers...!!!
Thanks Duade, yes most definitely, the focal length directly affects the amount of heat haze as we tend to shoot longer distances through more haze
Great video!! I've never had this issue, but I'll store this away in my memory for when it happens. Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
Hi Duade, Such a good heads up and explanation of what caused the problem. Further to previous comments, just to let you know that I opted for an RF 100-500 to use with my R7, having seen your review I thought that for my use the 200-800 was too extreme. Very pleased with my decision and the results so thanks for your really helpful reviews and summaries. These are so helpful. Cheers mate 👍😊
Interesting! Thanks for the info Duade
Great information thanks for your thoughts.
Another great video Duade! I for one really appreciate your honest and impartial stance when it comes to reviewing gear. Would you be able to get your hands on the recently released OM 150-600? I understand that it is a rebadge of the Sigma Sport DG DN 150-600. Would love to have it compared with something like the R7 and this new R200-800.
Wow, how convenient this video was, because at the moment I watched it I was traveling to Chile for birding. I photographed for a few days in the Andes mountains and as it is summer here, the temperatures and sun are very strong throughout the day and the areas are very open, which makes it difficult to get close to the birds. Most of the species I photographed here had problems with heat haze, as I couldn't get close enough, but when I could, the photos with the Sigma 150-600 and the R7 were perfect and full of details. I had never photographed before in a location where it was so difficult to get sharp shots as it is here.
Thanks for sharing mate, sorry to hear of the heat haze but stoked you got some keepers, sounds like a beautiful place to visit. Cheers, Duade
Great video Duade 👍🏻 Here in the UK it's not as common, it happened to me about a month ago I was belly down in the sand near a beach and the air temp was around 6 degrees Celsius and of course, the sand mud and water were a lot hotter as the beach was sat in the afternoon sun. And I saw a Grey Herron and I got down and took so many shots and then I got home and all of them were really blurry and soft, at the time I didn't give this a thought but it's really frustrating especially when you don't know what's causing it. It can also be caused by the lens hood temp especially if you're shooting out a car door window etc.
Hi Duade, last weekend I was on the field photographing Hen harriers. It was -13 degrees in the morning and everything was frozen, incl grass. And when the sun came out, the "heat haze" from melting ice on the grass completely ruined half day of shooting and recording. I used 200-800 and also tried 100-500, both with same result ofc. :)
One thing to add, with 200-800 capabilities I noticed that Im trying to photograph objects which are farther than I would normally photograph with shorter lens. This means much more haze (aggregation in the atmosphere) experiences then before. Its good to realize this. Thx for the video! You are the best, cheers. Tomas
Thanks for sharing your experience Tomas, seems to be an issue everywhere and now more noticeable due to the longer lenses. Have fun with the lens, Cheers, Duade
This actually explains what happened last Saturday when I took a 100-500mm out to test with my R5. . Winter here in Switzerland and was by the lake the sun had a bit of warmth with the mist bruning off. The shots I took over the lake all had issues the ones on land were fine. Cheers for the heads up, good vid 👍
Could be the answer to some of my soft shots. Great vid Duade.
My pleasure mate, I suspect it has caused a number of mine. Cheers, DUade
Hi Duade, this is so correct, I had an experience in the high arctic photographing polar bears, or "not". I was using a canon 500mm f4 + 1.4 extender at F5.6, with good shutter speed and low Iso, the bear was a good distance away and all my shots were as blurred as yours, I realised it was also heat haze but did not expect this in the arctic mid summer at 4 degrees C, but I guess the compression of a high magnification amplifies the distortion.
Heat haze at airports. Runways, grass and air at different temperatures. Cooler Grass next to the warm runway affects even more. From - 10C to +30C
This is so interesting. I have never realised it was heat haze but it makes so much sense now. I am in South Africa and middle afternoon is very hot so I will often be affected by it. I was once in a wetland area and all my shots were soft and i actually took the lense back but we then came to the conclusion it was shakes or something but this makes a lot of sense! Thank you!
Great information and super helpful in explaining this frustrating phenomenon! Thanks Duade!
Glad it was helpful!
Such a great video! Thanks a bunch for expanding on this. Im looking at going to that same combo, R7 +200-800 and i hear/read so much bad about it, but this makes complete sense and makes me feel better about considering that combo
Hey Duade, I actually had this exact issue last weekend with my 200-800 while shooting at a small lake. The ducks were nicely lit on one part of it but only the shots in the shaded parts came out reasonably sharp. I was initially confused but do now also think it was due to heat haze. Just another thing one has to be concious about. Thanks for sharing your experiences!
P.S.: and thanks a lot for showcasing my ruddy shelduck shot! I'm super happy you seem to like it as much as I do :)
Yes, sounds like heat haze to me, no problem I love that image :-) Cheers, Duade
Cool video DUADE 👍🏻
My pleasure, glad you liked it, Cheers, Duade
That explains a lot. Here in northern USA I shoot often (in the winter) from my car. My R10 and RF600 almost always is soft. I switch to my Sigma 150-600 and problem goes away. I never really thought about the heat from the car causing the problem. In the summer, regardless of where I shoot, the R10 and RF600 combo works very well. Thanks Duade!