Great video! Such a cool machine, especially since the off-the-rack ones are so expensive! Bravo sir! Small critique, ACME is generally spoken as “Akkk-Meee”. Good stuff man, keep up the good work!
Yessir I would say all in on this unit is in the neighborhood of 650 dollars max! Not a bad deal when you consider how much other packages are with die sets! Appreciate the correction, I never new that!
You had to have saved a double ton of money making your own planishing hammer. I've been thinking about building one too. Nice to see your good efforts in building one. I picked up some idea's. Thanks...
You both need to look up Carl at Make it Kustom as he makes these and sells them, he also has lots of informative videos on metal shaping, much like you are trying to do. He is a great explainer, teacher of the craft and a great guy too.
Just found your channel, I'm liking what I see. I have a similar project. A 1948 F6 COE and a 48 conventional F6. My plan is to marry the two and make a 4 dr out of them. They then will be put on a 1993 F350 frame, with 7.3 turbo Diesel with 5 speed. That probably will take a couple of weeks, na years if I am lucky. Is that your chassi in the back ground, Nice. I like your project on the planishing hammer. For more ideas on different styles take a look at Make It Kustom, he builds several different models. The next time you try to join two pieces by welding while inside a tube. Drill a hole all the way through. That will allow you to immediately rotate the tube 180 degrees and weld the other side before the first welds cools, that should keep most of the warp out of the tubes. The quicker you do the second weld the less warp you will have. Anyway keep up the good work.
Make it kustom has changed my life friend thank you and I would love to see your build brother please keep me updated I didn’t have the stones to attempt a crew cab
If you want your planishing hammer to be effective, you need to clean up the welds first. you are trying to move more metal than there is space for in the panel and you end up with either an ugly weld line or an over stretched panel . The weld bumps also screws up the anvils over time.
Thank you very much for the tip! I believe I did indeed over stretch certain areas at the weld seam, but it’s fixable. Now I know better for next time!
I was thinking the same thing about putting it into the tube as a jig. Then I wasn't sure if you'd be able to get it back out lol. Almost need to throw it on a lathe
You see the top of the cab where the weld joint is?..it’s low which means your patch panel was about a half inch short….will take a lot of stretching to get that center back up without adding more metal
You can use 2 pieces of opposing angle iron or channel clamped to the outside of the tubing to keep the tubing strait as well. I narrowed a rear end with that method and it works perfect.
grind slight grove so you have a slight v for the weld then cut a short pipe place it in the other end of the tube. then stick it in your press on the other side of your sweet shop. the press should hold things together for your tack welds.
I hadn’t even thought of it until another viewer showed me someone else’s build that uses a hinge. Pretty amazing design, will definitely be making one on the future!
www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Planishing-Hammer-Lower-CP-Die-Post-Pullmax-English-Wheel-Made-In-USA-/114206336130?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Search his store
You could have made a jig for the tack welding, your inner tube is long enough cut a couple 6" pieces of your outer tube, put them on the inner tube a few inches apart so you can get to the welds to clean them up and weld flat bar on edge perpendicular to the outer pipe wall across the gap. Weld them opposite sides like you were to avoid warping, 30degrees apart you'd get 6 ribs and that should hold it straight enough to weld and maybe get a die grinder in there if the inner pipe doesn't just slide out. Cool project.... I never would have had the stones to cut up that air hammer but now I see how foolish I am
When you butt weld two pieces of metal like that, you need to bevel both pieces before you weld them. You will have a much stronger weld, plus you wouldn't have had problems with it coming up in your weld hole. Also a slot would have been better than a hole if you had the means to make one. Otherwise keep up the good work. Like Rat Rod Bob says you're getting it,you just ain't got it yet.
You know I wasn’t so worried about the strength of that joint because I had a feeling it was going to have issues being straight, I will be purchasing an extra die post that is just machined longer so I won’t have to have a piece of tube welded to it at all, thank you for the tips 🙏
Rich you overthought it if you would have just wielded a nut on either side for adjustability and clamping force. or just wielded the nut up inside and a nut on the bottom end a fashioned an T handle for it youd'a got their faster with out near the work,
Maybe grinding the ends on those 2 like beveling them so when you weld the weld will pennatrate and you can always grind afterwards and have flat surface
I considered beveling them however there are not much forces that could cause this joint to break and even if it does I can always just weld it again with a bevel, or better yet just buy a longer post like I should have from the beginning
@@turborich8316 Very inspiring seeing someone making their own tools, your design looks like it will work good, I'm sure your welding will hold up. Thanks for posting and sharing.
I bevel all joints that require strength, this was simply an experiment. It is also a joint that sees little to no lateral force so it’s not in any danger of breaking. And if it did, I could always just weld it again.
I was most concerned with trying to keep the two pieces straight and I was a bit worried that a bevel would allow more chance of distortion, but it distorted anyway 🤷♂️ I think long run I’m just going to order a longer die post and not worry about customizing it at all! Thanks for watching!
I really like the project but do yourself a favor and buy a camera stand, the wiggling around and working with1 hand just doesn't make it. Keep up the good videos.
Great video! Such a cool machine, especially since the off-the-rack ones are so expensive! Bravo sir! Small critique, ACME is generally spoken as “Akkk-Meee”. Good stuff man, keep up the good work!
Yessir I would say all in on this unit is in the neighborhood of 650 dollars max! Not a bad deal when you consider how much other packages are with die sets! Appreciate the correction, I never new that!
You had to have saved a double ton of money making your own planishing hammer. I've been thinking about building one too. Nice to see your good efforts in building one. I picked up some idea's. Thanks...
You both need to look up Carl at Make it Kustom as he makes these and sells them, he also has lots of informative videos on metal shaping, much like you are trying to do. He is a great explainer, teacher of the craft and a great guy too.
Just found your channel, I'm liking what I see. I have a similar project. A 1948 F6 COE and a 48 conventional F6. My plan is to marry the two and make a 4 dr out of them. They then will be put on a 1993 F350 frame, with 7.3 turbo Diesel with 5 speed. That probably will take a couple of weeks, na years if I am lucky. Is that your chassi in the back ground, Nice. I like your project on the planishing hammer. For more ideas on different styles take a look at Make It Kustom, he builds several different models. The next time you try to join two pieces by welding while inside a tube. Drill a hole all the way through. That will allow you to immediately rotate the tube 180 degrees and weld the other side before the first welds cools, that should keep most of the warp out of the tubes. The quicker you do the second weld the less warp you will have. Anyway keep up the good work.
Make it kustom has changed my life friend thank you and I would love to see your build brother please keep me updated I didn’t have the stones to attempt a crew cab
If you want your planishing hammer to be effective, you need to clean up the welds first. you are trying to move more metal than there is space for in the panel and you end up with either an ugly weld line or an over stretched panel . The weld bumps also screws up the anvils over time.
Thank you very much for the tip! I believe I did indeed over stretch certain areas at the weld seam, but it’s fixable. Now I know better for next time!
I was thinking the same thing about putting it into the tube as a jig. Then I wasn't sure if you'd be able to get it back out lol. Almost need to throw it on a lathe
Brilliant definition of resourceful
Thank you 🙏 👍
I had the same idea, welding inside of an alignment tube with an access window. I'm glad to see someone try it. It seems to work as expected.
Very resourceful, thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Glad people are digging it!
Nice. Looks like an up coming project for me.
Would you mind saying where you got your anvils from ? Thanks .
There’s a seller on eBay decently priced too
@@turborich8316 what seller...
Nice work, looks super useful.
You see the top of the cab where the weld joint is?..it’s low which means your patch panel was about a half inch short….will take a lot of stretching to get that center back up without adding more metal
You can use 2 pieces of opposing angle iron or channel clamped to the outside of the tubing to keep the tubing strait as well. I narrowed a rear end with that method and it works perfect.
Thanks for the tip! Always like to have another arrow in my quiver!
Where did you order the anvils for the hammer? Thought you stated Arizona, but nothing more. Please let us know. Thanks.
Adbuch is the seller on eBay
grind slight grove so you have a slight v for the weld then cut a short pipe place it in the other end of the tube. then stick it in your press on the other side of your sweet shop. the press should hold things together for your tack welds.
Just a thought if there is a bit of distortion in the anvil holder can you get it machined down on a leath back to round
I am always searching for a good lathe to pick up, someday! 🤘
I am wondering why you didn't hinge it with a
I hadn’t even thought of it until another viewer showed me someone else’s build that uses a hinge. Pretty amazing design, will definitely be making one on the future!
Who are you buying the lower mountain dies from
Check eBay there’s a guy on there selling sets out of Arizona
I've seen other videos where they claimed the harbor freight hammer hit a little to hard . Did you feel the same way?
With the pressure regulator it’s completely variable, but I could not say for certain, I still don’t really know what I’m doing with the thing lol
@TurboRich831 I've been watching a lot of videos by make it kustom. He's got some good info on planishing hammers.
Man Karl is awesome and his videos are pure gold!!
Where did you get the base the dies sit in?
eBay search planishing hammer dies
Do you happen to have the link to where you bought the lower die mount & dies?
www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Planishing-Hammer-Lower-CP-Die-Post-Pullmax-English-Wheel-Made-In-USA-/114206336130?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Search his store
@@turborich8316 AWESOME. Thank you. I like the way you built yout planishing hammer.
The only thing I’d change is to request the seller custom make a longer die post if you are considering building one!
@@turborich8316 Excelent suggestion. Thank you.
You could have made a jig for the tack welding, your inner tube is long enough cut a couple 6" pieces of your outer tube, put them on the inner tube a few inches apart so you can get to the welds to clean them up and weld flat bar on edge perpendicular to the outer pipe wall across the gap. Weld them opposite sides like you were to avoid warping, 30degrees apart you'd get 6 ribs and that should hold it straight enough to weld and maybe get a die grinder in there if the inner pipe doesn't just slide out. Cool project.... I never would have had the stones to cut up that air hammer but now I see how foolish I am
Works great !
Gusset the hoop?
That is the plan 👍
Preheat first to prevent some shrinking ..
FYI : Hard thick MIG welds do not planish well , save yourself time and TIG weld it
That’s exactly what I did 👍
Thanks, good ideas.
Thank you.
When you butt weld two pieces of metal like that, you need to bevel both pieces before you weld them. You will have a much stronger weld, plus you wouldn't have had problems with it coming up in your weld hole. Also a slot would have been better than a hole if you had the means to make one. Otherwise keep up the good work.
Like Rat Rod Bob says you're getting it,you just ain't got it yet.
You know I wasn’t so worried about the strength of that joint because I had a feeling it was going to have issues being straight, I will be purchasing an extra die post that is just machined longer so I won’t have to have a piece of tube welded to it at all, thank you for the tips 🙏
I like the project. It's a good idea.
Thank you! I definitely would love to squire a lathe!
I have a 9" southbend.. it's not a big machine, but it sure is handy to have..
I am always on the look out, had a few slip through my hands already but hopefully someday!
Hey. How Much Preasure you need for thicker Material
planishing?
I couldn’t say for sure, I usually just try different settings till I get it or mess up and have to fix it
Rich you overthought it if you would have just wielded a nut on either side for adjustability and clamping force. or just wielded the nut up inside and a nut on the bottom end a fashioned an T handle for it youd'a got their faster with out near the work,
That is a very good thing point Ron, I may just modify it, as it’s not quite as easy to setup as I’d like 👍
Instead of cutting the trigger just bond it in the on position and use a foor pedal regulator.
That's cool. I think i could make something like that.
Well done🙂
Thank you! I’m sure almost anyone can, simple and straightforward is my specialty!
Maybe grinding the ends on those 2 like beveling them so when you weld the weld will pennatrate and you can always grind afterwards and have flat surface
I considered beveling them however there are not much forces that could cause this joint to break and even if it does I can always just weld it again with a bevel, or better yet just buy a longer post like I should have from the beginning
@@turborich8316 Very inspiring seeing someone making their own tools, your design looks like it will work good, I'm sure your welding will hold up. Thanks for posting and sharing.
Thank you, for watching!
Check out “make it kustom”….you might get some trick tips for this
Great recommendation thank you 🙏
@@turborich8316 spreading knowledge is never a bad thing…
I agree! I don’t have a whole lot of knowledge to share but I figure I can share my efforts anyway!
@@turborich8316 the amount doesnt matter…if its something that helps…its plenty
Show vou fazer uma 👍
Clamp your pipes to be welded into a piece of 2x2 angle iron and clamp them for welding
I really can’t believe I didn’t think of that! I will definitely do that next time! Thanks Michael!
Maybe if you have to do something like this again, you should bevel the joint before you weld.
I bevel all joints that require strength, this was simply an experiment. It is also a joint that sees little to no lateral force so it’s not in any danger of breaking. And if it did, I could always just weld it again.
The bevel suggestion was made so the weld would be below the surface and maybe allow the part to be rotated easier. Good luck with your fabrication.
I was most concerned with trying to keep the two pieces straight and I was a bit worried that a bevel would allow more chance of distortion, but it distorted anyway 🤷♂️ I think long run I’m just going to order a longer die post and not worry about customizing it at all! Thanks for watching!
Genius!
I really like the project but do yourself a favor and buy a camera stand, the wiggling around and working with1 hand just doesn't make it. Keep up the good videos.
I use a stand as much as I can. Being a one man show is no easy task but I’m trying. Thanks!
All's well that ends well, nice work on that. Those things are terrible on the ears.
No kidding!! Hearing protection is mandatory with this tool
You need a lathe my friend..
If you would have learned about stitch welding you wouldn't have had to build that ridiculous thing.
Whatever you say boss
i nave a CENGAR planishing hammer - its a noisy bugger and after a while i swear it'll flake the enamel of teeth !