Take a vice grip... add a point or weld a point onto each jaw... clamp the grip on your panel and it'll mark both sides with a dimple... sand where the dimple is 51:00 instead of sanding off all of that..... swarf.... aren't you going to have to grind thr plug welds anyway? Just weld and then grind/sand
Glad to see you chose the 120 volt version of the spot welder. “Many”, if not “most” DIY garage builders have only a 120 volt outlet source in their garages.
You can thank the collision damage that no one would touch, Derek, and everyone else who did not scrap what was a save able car. You are the right person for this job. Also, you are a great educator. Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
I absolutely love the fact that you took the time,money,and labor to save and bring this car back to life and give it another chance when anyone else would have sent it to the junkyard. You kick ass Kevin!
Indeed!! Especially us in the rust belt, we appreciate you guys saving these cars long after most of the ones around here have turned to dust. I can't wait to see the 300zx
Kevin, we have used one of those Harbor Freight spot welders before & hung it from an engine hoist. Much easier than man handling 30 pounds around a panel!
@@paintucation At my shop I put a rope over a truss in the ceiling, big carabiner on one side, tie off the other side to something heavy. I welded a hook to an I-beam.
Back in 1974 when your Camaro was built they used uncoated steel panels and they were held in indexable welding jigs and humans spot welded them together. That'd why you have the uneven spacing of the welds. Later in the 1980s they began to go to coil coated steels that used weldable primers and welding robots started to takeover and you had evenly spaced spot welds. What you need to comfortably use your spot welder is a spring loaded tool balancer either hanging from an above mounted trolly or in the case of a small shop a cherry picker. You set the balancer to zero force and it takes up the weight of the tools so you don't have to.
See.... This is exactly what I hope for when I try something out of my comfort zone. Obviously you've got experience with this, I love the learning curve! I'll probably never do what you're talking about, but I know that I've got a bunch to learn on this and it is invigorating! Thanks very much for your comment man.
I know I'll get some pushback on this but for years I have removed the Ecoat where the seam is, painted with weld through primer and just hit it with the mig with no hole. It bonds to both sides if the mig is adjusted for the width of both panels and dissimilar thicknesses can be welded together great. Never failed at the weld and super easy to do!
I've always heard and called the sharp, ragged edges made by any type of cutting called "burrs". Even cutting plastic can leave a burr. It doesn't have to cut you be be one. As a retired machinist of 40+ years, I probably still have slivers of steel in my hands somewhere. Sweet little spot welder. If I thought I'd be using it a lot, I'd get one. I got one of those stud welders years ago and only have used it a couple times. Congrats on getting the trunk floor in. LOTS of welding...
It’s good to get excited about a build. I could tell that you were in the zone. Unfortunately, I tend to forget something or make a mistake when things get exciting. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming!
Nice job! Info on the e-Coat was great. 2 more weeks and you're done 😁? Ever thought of having Chip Foose draw you up a finished rendition of this Camaro?
Kevin, Thanks for taking us along for the ride. I appreciate your willingness to show the detail and the mistakes. I enjoy watching the videos since I don’t have the car, money, tools and skills to do a project like this. Keep up the great work!
Real eye opening coverage of the spot welder and EDM with shunt pliers wow nice. @inerlogic had a neat suggestion on vice grip mod to help mark positions. Excellent session, Thanks again for your generous sharing through videos
Thank you! And I'm stoked FOR you. All your work fitting and refitting comes to fruition. It was fascinating learning about the spot welding. Laughed out loud at "Last time, awkward, awkward". Sorry I'm late (as usual) but I did finish my flooring project and then my OCD kicked in and I had to reorganize my battery operated tool storage and charging (I have no idea why, it just happens). See you Tuesday sir, have a great weekend ~ Chuck
I put factory quarters on a 67 camaro 30 years ago and spot welded right through the E-coat, no problem. I used a similar spot welder to what you used.
Another great video, Kevin. I remember the last time I finally sat the trunk pan in my 72. That's a great feeling. I have been wanting to try a spot welder!
Eastwood used to have a spot welder that was powered by your existing arc welder. You grounded the work area the same way as any electrical welder requires. The electrode holder clamped on the cable to a pistol grip carbon rod spot welder. You drilled a smaller plug weld hole, centered the business end of the spot weld gun over your hole and used the trigger to raise and lower the carbon rod, initiating and terminating the molten spot. You could keep pressure against the top panel in the lap to keep it from opening a gap. I had one but it was forgotten when i started using my mig for plug welds. This video tells me I should dig it out and give it a second chance.
Hey Kevin, a big fan for many years. I have all your DVDs before I went to trade school and after keep watching them keep learning I really love this channel. You started and I really love the fact that you’ve answered the question. I’ve had a long time about spot welding with that spot welder that you bought fromHarbor freight getting ready to get mines right after the holiday. I’m working on a Chevelle. Can’t wait to get cracking on it. I’m freezing up here in the east though anyway happy holidays to you thank you for the great channel. Great work and I hope you keep doing it because I can’t wait to see more. Take care.
I've heard of people using it through panel Bond as well, several oe's mandate welds at the corners on a larger panel even if it's not a structural repair. I will definitely try it through panel Bond and test it
I felt sorry for that Camaro Watching Derek beet on it I do like him and V/G garage just love old Camaro's& Firebird's & next to my 69 Z28 I love 70 -74 Camaro's & Firebird's with the small back window.. Keep up the good work !
My dad and I restored a 74 Blazer that was so bad we needed a rotisserie and bracing to hold the body together. Having one of those for certain parts of that project made it a little easier.
Kevin love your new series I have a 72 SS with the Rallysport option which I pretty much have to do the same body panel replacements except the roof panel I hope.I have been watching every episode to see what I’m getting my self into I Ain’t scared 😮
Looking good 🎉 I have used a 3” scotch bright wheel on a pneumatic cut off tool for metal prep. I thought it made better welds. The metal flows together better 🎉
@@TheZachVideo The LT Meant "Luxury Touring" The interior was a bit different. The door panels were padded vs plastic in 72, not sure about later years.
Hey Kevin, To locate both sides where you want to spot weld, use a tape measure on a reference you can see from both sides. Your jaws are just a copper bar threaded on one end and drilled and tapped on the other, with a bend. If you have a drill, tap and die, and a bender you can make any shape jaws you need. PS... You can suspend it from your cherry picker. Less work for your biceps.
Harley Davidson in York Pa. used to or still does E-coat the interior of their gas tanks. It was a crude process that involved sticking a pipe with a nozzle on the end through the gas fill hole and pulling the lever on the side causing the E-coat to spray. Nothing was metered. I watched it a couple times and shook my head. If the employee had a bad day with the company management, he would hold the lever open longer. This resulted in a lot of E-coat inside and before it cured, it would settle and often after the tank was sent to the other stages of manufacture, pieces would break off. Many chunks were thicker than 3/8” and larger than the gas fill opening. This was discovered through handling the tanks through the different stages prior to powder paint. The chunk(s) had to be broken up inside the tank for removal and than took a long punch , positioning and a hammer, giving it several solid wacks. Once removed it went through the other stages. This also restricted the flow of fuel out the botton of the tank, making the outlet hole smaller but that wwas never addressed. Management knew. Get-r-done and don't stop the assembly line. If you ever encounter a tank with epoxy pieces inside or restricted fuel flow, you'll know why.
I've wanted one of those for like 30+ years! So I bought one about 2 weeks ago. :D (Vevor, but I'm pretty sure it's out of the same factory - looks identical)
One other thing with spot welders, it is good practice to do test pieces before and after doing any welding, with the same gauge / coating of metal you will be welding, do 3 spot welds, then check they pull a plug of metal. The idea being if the test before shows a good weld, and the test after shows a good weld, then it is likely all the ones in-between will be good. If the one before is bad, you can check the settings until you get a good weld, if the one after is bad, well you know, those welds could be bad and you can fix them!
One of the old LENCO panel spot welders would be very nice. Had a very old one that worked well..the catch was it ran on 220v/40 amps. Worked well though with access from just one side.
Kevin, when I built my 67 Z28 I took a pair of vice grips and modified them so I could attach an insulating section and then and the tips out of a spot welder. I ran battery cables from the spot welder to the vice grips. They did not have a lot of reach but instead of trying to move around a "29#" spot welder I could just vice grip the edge and zap it for a couple seconds. The tough part was finding a material that would insulate and take heat. I dont remember what the material was but it worked great.
Myself I used an old zip cut with a 1/8 thick wheel and work the center of the plug weld leaving with a dimple, after primer and paint, always made me satisfied. Just me
You needed the 220v version welder so you could use larger diameter contact tips. Even if the reach allows you to get one side of the trunk floor frame rails those tiny welds will be kind of weak. I would prefer the zinc rich weld thru coating inside those lapped panel joints. The zinc is better for stopping corrosion from creeping in between panels. By all means preserve the e-coating everywhere else.
Kevin, I bought my spot welder from USA weld it way better than that harbor freight one. It is more expensive, but you can get an assortment of tips to do a lot more.
FYI: E-coat is different than Electrostatic Painting or Electroplating. E-coat, or electrocoating, is a painting process that uses an electrical current to apply a protective finish to a metal surface. It's also known as electrophoretic coating or electropainting.
E-coat is electrostatically applied with cathode -annode immersion. Unless I'm mistaken. I may interchange labels, but E-coat is typically immersion application.
@@paintucation Yes, e-coated panels sometimes have runs. This looks like the panels were dipped. The really high quality parts are usually smooth as glass.
I always strip the e coat and zinc spray the weld areas (unless I'm using panel bond) e coat doesn't have a galvanizing effect like the zinc does. I've removed panels that have either used copper weld thru or e coat and they rust from the wild points.
That shunt is cool if you're only using spot welder but the pannels that you need to do both you could mig weld one hole first then spot weld without having to clean a spot for the shunt
Something else I want to mention as you know. Any restoration either 100% original numbers matching or custom gets over restored. The numbers matching muscle cars always look better than the factory did. That said, we spend lots of time with primer that the factory never did. And when we do those spot welds lose the detail and get smoothed out. So I dont think either method is wrong. Using a Mig is certainly easier and my normal go to method. The biggest challenge is getting the panels tight to each other once you move towards the center. I thought you were nuts for restoring this but I have a friend restoring one that has a pretty solid body but the rear frame rails are rotten. I am told in his year those are not completely available. I think what you are doing is less work than that he is doing. Good job. Cant wait to see Dereks truck done too.
Kevin Ive been loyal being I know your a perfectionist and this is your side gig but I am glad this rear clip is finally getting burned in, it's been a super super lengthy process.#Getterdone
@@paintucation I done a full restore on a 80 z t top car in 1998. It was factory maroon. I painted it Dodge Stealth Red/orange. My next car i want is a 71-3 Nova in hugger orange with the Muncie 4 speed with the little console with the gauges in the console. I think I'll buy one restored verses building at my age of 57.
The new technologies like plasma cutting torches, laser welders, laser ablation tools ( Fiber laser, Nanosecond DPSS laser, USP laser, Single mode laser, Multimode laser, CO2 laser ), portable spot welders although not a new technology being portable is more convenient.
All of the most secure resistance welds I’ve removed sheet metal from, the metal around the weld failed and not the center point of the weld itself. Case in point factory spot welds are larger diameter w/dimples and requires a 1/4 or greater spot weld drill bits. These small machines work well but imho it only fuses a small fraction compared to the factory. Considering it leaves such a small heat signature behind it’s best to double the amount of welds with it to ensure strength. If a 💯 factory replica is what you’re going for you just dress up the extra welds to hide them and leave the others alone. I’m not trying to down talk Kevin he does amazing work. I have nearly a decade of professional experience and I’m just letting y’all know that you have to adapt and overcome with the tools you have and can afford. Making a car 💯 factory is achievable but just be forewarned that those little tiny detail will be found if concourse is your goal. Best luck guy’s and listen to this man he knows his shit 👍✌️
This was a fun one to do! I'm a tool-junkie anyway, and i got to learn stuff!!! Thanks for watching!!
Kevin , if you can, keep an eye out for a miller spot welder with a timer, you can usually pick them up for cheap
Take a vice grip... add a point or weld a point onto each jaw... clamp the grip on your panel and it'll mark both sides with a dimple... sand where the dimple is
51:00 instead of sanding off all of that..... swarf.... aren't you going to have to grind thr plug welds anyway? Just weld and then grind/sand
Kevin do you have spot welder clamps❓
Glad to see you chose the 120 volt version of the spot welder. “Many”, if not “most” DIY garage builders have only a 120 volt outlet source in their garages.
Instead of grinding paint off, can you hit it with weldable primer to carry your circuit?
You can thank the collision damage that no one would touch, Derek, and everyone else who did not scrap what was a save able car. You are the right person for this job. Also, you are a great educator.
Cheers from Australia 🇦🇺
Cheers mate! Thanks!
I absolutely love the fact that you took the time,money,and labor to save and bring this car back to life and give it another chance when anyone else would have sent it to the junkyard. You kick ass Kevin!
Indeed!! Especially us in the rust belt, we appreciate you guys saving these cars long after most of the ones around here have turned to dust. I can't wait to see the 300zx
Kevin, we have used one of those Harbor Freight spot welders before & hung it from an engine hoist. Much easier than man handling 30 pounds around a panel!
I never thought about that... That's a great idea!!!! Wow!!!!! Thank you!!
@@paintucation At my shop I put a rope over a truss in the ceiling, big carabiner on one side, tie off the other side to something heavy. I welded a hook to an I-beam.
Thank you for sharing the tips.
Coffee and a KT video, good way to start a Saturday morning
That's the way to do it! good morning!
Back in 1974 when your Camaro was built they used uncoated steel panels and they were held in indexable welding jigs and humans spot welded them together. That'd why you have the uneven spacing of the welds. Later in the 1980s they began to go to coil coated steels that used weldable primers and welding robots started to takeover and you had evenly spaced spot welds. What you need to comfortably use your spot welder is a spring loaded tool balancer either hanging from an above mounted trolly or in the case of a small shop a cherry picker. You set the balancer to zero force and it takes up the weight of the tools so you don't have to.
See.... This is exactly what I hope for when I try something out of my comfort zone. Obviously you've got experience with this, I love the learning curve! I'll probably never do what you're talking about, but I know that I've got a bunch to learn on this and it is invigorating! Thanks very much for your comment man.
You could also try that gun support that Jesse Ventura wore in da Predatuh. I just put Arnold's voice in your head
It is nice to see more new parts permanently attached to your project car.
Amazing work Kev.! Congrats on the new tool
I know I'll get some pushback on this but for years I have removed the Ecoat where the seam is, painted with weld through primer and just hit it with the mig with no hole. It bonds to both sides if the mig is adjusted for the width of both panels and dissimilar thicknesses can be welded together great. Never failed at the weld and super easy to do!
No resistance here .. fusion is fusion ... 👍
@paintucation Oh my Kevin that was quite appropriate!
I've always heard and called the sharp, ragged edges made by any type of cutting called "burrs". Even cutting plastic can leave a burr. It doesn't have to cut you be be one. As a retired machinist of 40+ years, I probably still have slivers of steel in my hands somewhere.
Sweet little spot welder. If I thought I'd be using it a lot, I'd get one. I got one of those stud welders years ago and only have used it a couple times.
Congrats on getting the trunk floor in. LOTS of welding...
Almost 90 plugs!!! I'm tired! Lol!
100% Burrs
It was great seeing a spot welder in use.
Thanks Kevin for another interesting and educational video... You're the best!
I appreciate that, man! Glad you're enjoying the build!
As usual! Great info bossman!
Appreciate that, man! We HAVE TO get together soon!!
I learn something from you all the time. I always thought the initial weld Flash, was the most critical time on your eyes! Thanks for your work!
I'm so glad to see this Camaro going back together.. and thanks for sharing your resistance welding experience with us.
Glad to see panels being welded in now. Keep taking your time. Quality work takes time! Great video as always!
Thanks!!!! It's exciting to be at this stage!
I used a resistance welder in high school. Fantastic tool.
That is very cool thanks. I learned something.
Fun to see others getting somewhere on their projects since mine arent
Love the video content! Bringing back my highschool days!
It’s good to get excited about a build. I could tell that you were in the zone. Unfortunately, I tend to forget something or make a mistake when things get exciting. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming!
I never would have thought of getting one of these before seeing this. That's a cool tool! Thanks!
Kevin, I have the same problem with my work ethic " perfection is good enough" LOL
thank you for being a friend........sorry couldnt resist during all your thank you s. Love the project.
Ok you just gave me an excuse to buy a new welding rig. Awesome video!!!
I KNOW!!!! Right? It's totally worth it, even though I can't get to half of the welds...
This series has been my new favorite Saturday thing. Love that there is an hour of material
Go Kev Go! So happy you are on the putting all together stage now!
That's the 1st time I've seen that pinch welder in use. Thank you for the demo, I think I'll go get it now.
I'm a lot like you Kevin I like experiment with tools and I like to watch you do it and learn.
thank you for sharing this with us. Can't wait to see your future progress on the old camaro.
Dude, I learned so much from this episode. Thoroughly enjoyed this. Thank you
Kevin, you always look like you have had just enough coffee, I love it
She's heading in the right direction now!!!🎉
You are very Welcome Kevin. Oh and Yuengling will be fine.!!! Bottle not can.
Done!!
Nice job! Info on the e-Coat was great. 2 more weeks and you're done 😁? Ever thought of having Chip Foose draw you up a finished rendition of this Camaro?
Kevin,
Thanks for taking us along for the ride. I appreciate your willingness to show the detail and the mistakes. I enjoy watching the videos since I don’t have the car, money, tools and skills to do a project like this. Keep up the great work!
Real eye opening coverage of the spot welder and EDM with shunt pliers wow nice. @inerlogic had a neat suggestion on vice grip mod to help mark positions. Excellent session, Thanks again for your generous sharing through videos
Thank you! And I'm stoked FOR you. All your work fitting and refitting comes to fruition. It was fascinating learning about the spot welding. Laughed out loud at "Last time, awkward, awkward". Sorry I'm late (as usual) but I did finish my flooring project and then my OCD kicked in and I had to reorganize my battery operated tool storage and charging (I have no idea why, it just happens). See you Tuesday sir, have a great weekend ~ Chuck
Kevin 👍🏻 🙋♂️ 👍🏻
I put factory quarters on a 67 camaro 30 years ago and spot welded right through the E-coat, no problem. I used a similar spot welder to what you used.
Thinner coating? More pressure on the electrodes? More voltage and current probably would help.
Another great video, Kevin. I remember the last time I finally sat the trunk pan in my 72. That's a great feeling. I have been wanting to try a spot welder!
great content, Kevin. it's stupid how much i watch Canadians wrenching 🔧 on cars 🤪
We grew up wrenching on cars!! It's what we know!! Lol!
@ you're good on video too!
Dang it.. I so wanted you to buy me a beer.😅
Lol!!
Eastwood used to have a spot welder that was powered by your existing arc welder. You grounded the work area the same way as any electrical welder requires. The electrode holder clamped on the cable to a pistol grip carbon rod spot welder. You drilled a smaller plug weld hole, centered the business end of the spot weld gun over your hole and used the trigger to raise and lower the carbon rod, initiating and terminating the molten spot. You could keep pressure against the top panel in the lap to keep it from opening a gap. I had one but it was forgotten when i started using my mig for plug welds. This video tells me I should dig it out and give it a second chance.
Hey Kevin, a big fan for many years. I have all your DVDs before I went to trade school and after keep watching them keep learning I really love this channel. You started and I really love the fact that you’ve answered the question. I’ve had a long time about spot welding with that spot welder that you bought fromHarbor freight getting ready to get mines right after the holiday. I’m working on a Chevelle. Can’t wait to get cracking on it. I’m freezing up here in the east though anyway happy holidays to you thank you for the great channel. Great work and I hope you keep doing it because I can’t wait to see more. Take care.
Thanks man!!! Thank you for your amazing support through all these years. I hope I do you proud on the channel. :-)
I have been using this exact HF welder, I filed the tips to make the welds wider match the factory resistance welds.
I thought about that too!!! It's such a narrow contact.... Gonna try that
Please test it welding through some panel bond. I love that you don't edit out things like forgetting to turn on the gas.
I've heard of people using it through panel Bond as well, several oe's mandate welds at the corners on a larger panel even if it's not a structural repair. I will definitely try it through panel Bond and test it
I felt sorry for that Camaro Watching Derek beet on it I do like him and V/G garage just love old Camaro's& Firebird's & next to my 69 Z28 I love 70 -74 Camaro's & Firebird's with the small back window.. Keep up the good work !
My dad and I restored a 74 Blazer that was so bad we needed a rotisserie and bracing to hold the body together. Having one of those for certain parts of that project made it a little easier.
😎 Now that is a great tutorial! But now I need a spot welder, lol
Kevin love your new series I have a 72 SS with the Rallysport option which I pretty much have to do the same body panel replacements except the roof panel I hope.I have been watching every episode to see what I’m getting my self into I Ain’t scared 😮
Looking good 🎉 I have used a 3” scotch bright wheel on a pneumatic cut off tool for metal prep. I thought it made better welds. The metal flows together better 🎉
Absolutely!!
I can't believe Mr PPE didn't have his hearing protection on using the finger sander 😂
Didn't I have buds in?
That was fun to watch I like tools of all kind as well now I need to go find a project so I can get one of those too!
Living the dream vicariously. My first new car was a 72 LT Camaro. How I wish I had the space to do what your doing.
I had a 75 LT, I always thought the LT was what replaced the Z when it wasn't made for 3 years?
@@TheZachVideo The LT Meant "Luxury Touring" The interior was a bit different. The door panels were padded vs plastic in 72, not sure about later years.
Hey Kevin, To locate both sides where you want to spot weld, use a tape measure on a reference you can see from both sides.
Your jaws are just a copper bar threaded on one end and drilled and tapped on the other, with a bend. If you have a drill, tap and die, and a bender you can make any shape jaws you need.
PS... You can suspend it from your cherry picker. Less work for your biceps.
Really like the new car shows on u tube without the cable network in the way.
Me too!!!!
Was so down for the beer, sighs.
Sorry man...😞
@@paintucation lol, next time Kev... next time... haha
Easy to watch.
I am more of a Crown Royal guy. I'll watch the mail for my drink. Thanks Kevin.
Harley Davidson in York Pa. used to or still does E-coat the interior of their gas tanks. It was a crude process that involved sticking a pipe with a nozzle on the end through the gas fill hole and pulling the lever on the side causing the E-coat to spray. Nothing was metered. I watched it a couple times and shook my head. If the employee had a bad day with the company management, he would hold the lever open longer. This resulted in a lot of E-coat inside and before it cured, it would settle and often after the tank was sent to the other stages of manufacture, pieces would break off. Many chunks were thicker than 3/8” and larger than the gas fill opening. This was discovered through handling the tanks through the different stages prior to powder paint. The chunk(s) had to be broken up inside the tank for removal and than took a long punch , positioning and a hammer, giving it several solid wacks. Once removed it went through the other stages. This also restricted the flow of fuel out the botton of the tank, making the outlet hole smaller but that wwas never addressed. Management knew. Get-r-done and don't stop the assembly line. If you ever encounter a tank with epoxy pieces inside or restricted fuel flow, you'll know why.
Great content and thanks 🔧🔧👍
You could use an engine hoist to hold the spot welder at different heights it takes the weight off your arms used this method for a large tank.
I've wanted one of those for like 30+ years! So I bought one about 2 weeks ago. :D
(Vevor, but I'm pretty sure it's out of the same factory - looks identical)
Nice! You're gonna love it!
Tip sharpening is key to good spot welds. 👌
Great point! (See what it did there?)😁
One other thing with spot welders, it is good practice to do test pieces before and after doing any welding, with the same gauge / coating of metal you will be welding, do 3 spot welds, then check they pull a plug of metal. The idea being if the test before shows a good weld, and the test after shows a good weld, then it is likely all the ones in-between will be good. If the one before is bad, you can check the settings until you get a good weld, if the one after is bad, well you know, those welds could be bad and you can fix them!
One of the old LENCO panel spot welders would be very nice. Had a very old one that worked well..the catch was it ran on 220v/40 amps. Worked well though with access from just one side.
Kevin, when I built my 67 Z28 I took a pair of vice grips and modified them so I could attach an insulating section and then and the tips out of a spot welder. I ran battery cables from the spot welder to the vice grips. They did not have a lot of reach but instead of trying to move around a "29#" spot welder I could just vice grip the edge and zap it for a couple seconds. The tough part was finding a material that would insulate and take heat. I dont remember what the material was but it worked great.
Cool thanks for the info.
45:39 now you got me singing INXS😂
Myself I used an old zip cut with a 1/8 thick wheel and work the center of the plug weld leaving with a dimple, after primer and paint, always made me satisfied. Just me
You needed the 220v version welder so you could use larger diameter contact tips. Even if the reach allows you to get one side of the trunk floor frame rails those tiny welds will be kind of weak. I would prefer the zinc rich weld thru coating inside those lapped panel joints. The zinc is better for stopping corrosion from creeping in between panels. By all means preserve the e-coating everywhere else.
Grind it on the back side use a set of vice grips to make a little mark
Kevin, I bought my spot welder from USA weld it way better than that harbor freight one. It is more expensive, but you can get an assortment of tips to do a lot more.
Thanks man, I'm looking at getting a better one.
Thanks for the video it's great
FYI: E-coat is different than Electrostatic Painting or Electroplating.
E-coat, or electrocoating, is a painting process that uses an electrical current to apply a protective finish to a metal surface. It's also known as electrophoretic coating or electropainting.
E-coat is electrostatically applied with cathode -annode immersion. Unless I'm mistaken. I may interchange labels, but E-coat is typically immersion application.
@@paintucation
Yes, e-coated panels sometimes have runs. This looks like the panels were dipped. The really high quality parts are usually smooth as glass.
And an FYI, you can buy/make all sorts of extension arms if you can't reach a certain spot.
Thank you , I was going to ask that question .
@@robfdavis - You just think it, I reply! :D
@@DrFiero lol
I always strip the e coat and zinc spray the weld areas (unless I'm using panel bond) e coat doesn't have a galvanizing effect like the zinc does. I've removed panels that have either used copper weld thru or e coat and they rust from the wild points.
Lookin good...
First time I've seen an electric finger sander. The anticipation is killing me, but if you're gonna do it, do it right.
Great video ❤
That shunt is cool if you're only using spot welder but the pannels that you need to do both you could mig weld one hole first then spot weld without having to clean a spot for the shunt
Something else I want to mention as you know. Any restoration either 100% original numbers matching or custom gets over restored. The numbers matching muscle cars always look better than the factory did. That said, we spend lots of time with primer that the factory never did. And when we do those spot welds lose the detail and get smoothed out. So I dont think either method is wrong. Using a Mig is certainly easier and my normal go to method. The biggest challenge is getting the panels tight to each other once you move towards the center. I thought you were nuts for restoring this but I have a friend restoring one that has a pretty solid body but the rear frame rails are rotten. I am told in his year those are not completely available. I think what you are doing is less work than that he is doing. Good job. Cant wait to see Dereks truck done too.
Thanks man!!! We're whittling it down!!
Kevin Ive been loyal being I know your a perfectionist and this is your side gig but I am glad this rear clip is finally getting burned in, it's been a super super lengthy process.#Getterdone
I appreciate your patience, it's been a while for sure!
@@paintucation I done a full restore on a 80 z t top car in 1998. It was factory maroon. I painted it Dodge Stealth Red/orange. My next car i want is a 71-3 Nova in hugger orange with the Muncie 4 speed with the little console with the gauges in the console. I think I'll buy one restored verses building at my age of 57.
I use the same sander . For the Wen lol
Kevin. tip: You can do 1 mig weld first and then you have the connection established for the spot welds. Understand? 👍 Good job
That welder paid for itself on the very first piece you used it on. lol
Kevin Tate you owe me a beer 😂 I'm in Kingsport Tennessee no Big deal just a hop skip and jump over the pond
😆 What we want to see:
T-shirts with pictures of the car on them. Available to buy.
😆 We want to see the car come together.
You get to do what I wanted to do in highschool
The new technologies like plasma cutting torches, laser welders, laser ablation tools ( Fiber laser, Nanosecond DPSS laser, USP laser, Single mode laser, Multimode laser, CO2 laser ), portable spot welders although not a new technology being portable is more convenient.
So much less cleanup and after prep.
Question? If you did your plug welds first, would you still need the shunt clamp?
Nope!!! That takes care of current transfer
What we do when possible with gun on robots is start in the middle and work out so we don’t seam in wrinkles in the panel
Curious as to why you didn't use the spot welder at least on the outside rails of the trunk pan and frame.
Because I had already drilled the panel for rosette (plug) welds.
All of the most secure resistance welds I’ve removed sheet metal from, the metal around the weld failed and not the center point of the weld itself. Case in point factory spot welds are larger diameter w/dimples and requires a 1/4 or greater spot weld drill bits. These small machines work well but imho it only fuses a small fraction compared to the factory. Considering it leaves such a small heat signature behind it’s best to double the amount of welds with it to ensure strength. If a 💯 factory replica is what you’re going for you just dress up the extra welds to hide them and leave the others alone. I’m not trying to down talk Kevin he does amazing work. I have nearly a decade of professional experience and I’m just letting y’all know that you have to adapt and overcome with the tools you have and can afford. Making a car 💯 factory is achievable but just be forewarned that those little tiny detail will be found if concourse is your goal. Best luck guy’s and listen to this man he knows his shit 👍✌️
damn that's interesting.
Why do you have to use the shunting pliers if you do the plug welding first??
If you plug weld first would that work to close the circuit?
Came here to say that 😂
Yes!! That would satisfy the current path and bypass the need to shunt.
Where did you buy that shunting pliers.
Amazon