James, I agree with everyones comments about your amazing talent. I think you may be the best boat building educator that I’ve run across, and thank you for your contributions to the community which I have recently joined. My question to you, has to do with the front chain locker drain detail and how you finished the locker floor, connecting the drain tube into the PVC pipe. Thank you!
Thanks. The PVC tube that is glassed to the bottom of the hull in the tank is not connected directly to the chain locker drain hose. The chain locker does not have a floor other than the V of the hull. In the bottom of the chain locker vertical bulkhead I have a 5/8" thru-hull fitting connected to a flexible hose that passes through the PVC tube under the tank and goes aft to a shut-off valve in the aft area of the bilge. So the PVC tube is just used as a watertight way to hold the drain hose that passes loosely inside it. I didn't show all that because it was installed after painting. I now use Divinycell foam board instead of plywood for the tank to ensure there is no chance of future rot. I have an updated video on that coming out in a few weeks. Meanwhile, starting at 4 minutes in the following video it shows the chain locker drain details: ua-cam.com/video/Qq6mk2LjOzY/v-deo.html
About 40-45. Changing the level of the top of the tank makes the bigger difference in capacity. Bigger is usually better and because no one complains their water tanks are too big. If concerned about weight in the bow then you don't need to fill to the top except when max capacity is the priority.
Hi AV, I have just discovered your channel and videos. I am very close to buying 1965 Pearson Triton. I expect to go see her this Sunday. I was already a bit of a fan of the Alberg designs. My wife and I are enjoying very much your videos series on the way to China from Ft Lauderdale. Cheers! Oh, and I'm subscribing thanks
Just found your channel and love it. Especially the above vid as I'm starting a boat build from scratch and was trying to figure out a good way to put/build a watertank in the boat. Also love the idea in other vids about the compost toilet (working on that one too)
Hi James. Another question for you. What are your thoughts on overall weight distribution and itz effect on performance when you add the extra water tanks (to the front and in the bilge) and replacing ~300 lbs engine with an outboard aft. Can you have both water tanks 1 front and 1 in bilge or is this overkill and performace degrading. Cheers and thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
The aft bilge tank has very little effect because it is smaller and so low in the keel and not really near the end of the boat. The forward tank when full has some effect on performance making the boat slightly sluggish and a bit more hobbyhorseing when beating but it's minor. If someone were concerned with peak performance they need not fill the tank all the way but still have extra capacity when that is the priority, such as heading off on a long passage or to a dry place like Bahamas. Or you could build the forward tank a couple feet farther aft in the aft end of the V-berth as I recently did on another Triton. The outboard motor weight in the well also isn't very noticeable - not more than having a small child sit in the aft cockpit. and its weight is further forward than if on a transom bracket.
Thanks. The first coats were standard West System and final coats were solvent-free and blush-free Brewcoat. More recently I use Devoe Bar-Rust 233H which costs less, is available in a smaller quantity, and gives me better results. The link to that is at the bottom of the following article: atomvoyages.com/integral-water-tank-construction/ James
We used a cabinet grade of 1/2" ply from Home Depot, called sandply. Their hardwood plywood is also good. You need to look at the end grain for voids before purchase and if none are visible or only very small then should be OK. Marine ply is best if in your budget but in this application not required if you seal all surfaces in contact with water with several coats of epoxy resin.
I have a question for you. I have asked in some forums about putting the water under the v-birth. People have reported a hobby horse effect from e weight of the water in the front and the engine in the back. Have you experienced this at all?
+Andrew Crihfield The original water tank was in the same location. Of course, extra weight in the ends of the boat will have some effect but we haven't found it a serious problem.
James,
I agree with everyones comments about your amazing talent. I think you may be the best boat building educator that I’ve run across, and thank you for your contributions to the community which I have recently joined. My question to you, has to do with the front chain locker drain detail and how you finished the locker floor, connecting the drain tube into the PVC pipe. Thank you!
Thanks. The PVC tube that is glassed to the bottom of the hull in the tank is not connected directly to the chain locker drain hose. The chain locker does not have a floor other than the V of the hull. In the bottom of the chain locker vertical bulkhead I have a 5/8" thru-hull fitting connected to a flexible hose that passes through the PVC tube under the tank and goes aft to a shut-off valve in the aft area of the bilge. So the PVC tube is just used as a watertight way to hold the drain hose that passes loosely inside it. I didn't show all that because it was installed after painting. I now use Divinycell foam board instead of plywood for the tank to ensure there is no chance of future rot. I have an updated video on that coming out in a few weeks. Meanwhile, starting at 4 minutes in the following video it shows the chain locker drain details:
ua-cam.com/video/Qq6mk2LjOzY/v-deo.html
Excellent workmanship and well thought out. A master at his craft to be sure
You and Roger Taylor are two of the most genius boatbuilders around. Thanks for the info you share.
How many gallons does the water tank hold? I am considering a similar build on a Far East Mariner 31.
About 40-45. Changing the level of the top of the tank makes the bigger difference in capacity. Bigger is usually better and because no one complains their water tanks are too big. If concerned about weight in the bow then you don't need to fill to the top except when max capacity is the priority.
Hi AV, I have just discovered your channel and videos. I am very close to buying 1965 Pearson Triton. I expect to go see her this Sunday. I was already a bit of a fan of the Alberg designs. My wife and I are enjoying very much your videos series on the way to China from Ft Lauderdale. Cheers! Oh, and I'm subscribing thanks
Just found your channel and love it. Especially the above vid as I'm starting a boat build from scratch and was trying to figure out a good way to put/build a watertank in the boat.
Also love the idea in other vids about the compost toilet (working on that one too)
Hi James. Another question for you. What are your thoughts on overall weight distribution and itz effect on performance when you add the extra water tanks (to the front and in the bilge) and replacing ~300 lbs engine with an outboard aft. Can you have both water tanks 1 front and 1 in bilge or is this overkill and performace degrading. Cheers and thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
The aft bilge tank has very little effect because it is smaller and so low in the keel and not really near the end of the boat. The forward tank when full has some effect on performance making the boat slightly sluggish and a bit more hobbyhorseing when beating but it's minor. If someone were concerned with peak performance they need not fill the tank all the way but still have extra capacity when that is the priority, such as heading off on a long passage or to a dry place like Bahamas. Or you could build the forward tank a couple feet farther aft in the aft end of the V-berth as I recently did on another Triton. The outboard motor weight in the well also isn't very noticeable - not more than having a small child sit in the aft cockpit. and its weight is further forward than if on a transom bracket.
@@atomvoyager thank you for taking the time and responding. Wishing you a great 2019
Great job! I have an Alberg I "rescued" and am re-fitting, What was the special water tank epoxy you used?
Thanks. The first coats were standard West System and final coats were solvent-free and blush-free Brewcoat. More recently I use Devoe Bar-Rust 233H which costs less, is available in a smaller quantity, and gives me better results. The link to that is at the bottom of the following article:
atomvoyages.com/integral-water-tank-construction/
James
Thoroughly enjoy your videos. What type of plywood are you using for reconstructing that v-berth area? Thanks.
We used a cabinet grade of 1/2" ply from Home Depot, called sandply. Their hardwood plywood is also good. You need to look at the end grain for voids before purchase and if none are visible or only very small then should be OK. Marine ply is best if in your budget but in this application not required if you seal all surfaces in contact with water with several coats of epoxy resin.
I have a question for you. I have asked in some forums about putting the water under the v-birth. People have reported a hobby horse effect from e weight of the water in the front and the engine in the back. Have you experienced this at all?
+Andrew Crihfield
The original water tank was in the same location. Of course, extra weight in the ends of the boat will have some effect but we haven't found it a serious problem.