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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- A quick video showing the proper procedure to quickly tune up the transmitter on a Kenwood hybrid rig like the TS-830S, TS-820S, TS-530S, TS-520S, etc. using the DRIVE, PLATE, LOAD, CAR and MIC gain controls. As always, you should tune up into a dummy load if available. Also, be sure to limit the transmit time while tuning to about 10 seconds or less. This is based on the user manual, and the excellent how-to guide offered on Terry K9TW's website www.k9tw.com.
Of course, this video assumes that the rig is in proper operating conditions, with good tubes/valves, and properly aligned.
Is it just me or are the Kenwood TS-820/830 radios just a thing of beauty? Great video! Very informative and instructional. Great job. You have earned yourself a subscribe! 😄
Thank you, and I agree - the TS-830 is a thing of beauty!
@@w2aew I have an 820 and a 530sp both are still excellent radios. You can't beat that Kenwood hybrid sound.
Wow, just what I was looking for. Many, many, thanks!
I have a beautiful TS-830S.
I am 63 now and looking to get my ticket after a lapse of 40+ years when I got my novice as an eleven year old kid.
73s my friend!
Tom
Antique
@@cliffordsmith4050 - Maybe so, but they are sure beautiful, strong performers! I loved my TS-520S!
After reading the procedure in the Kenwood operating manual several times, looking at different video's and articles, I was still confused about the proper ALC setting for my vintage TS-520S. After seeing this video once, it all becomes crystal clear. As usual in your video's... Many thanks from a vintage operator.
I was immediately hooked on this video. One of the best on UA-cam for voice clarity, video lighting, front on close up of the actual radio. Clear concise instructions. This will help me tune up the Ts-520. I am certain, I already missed one step. I prefer to blame me first. The 520 is in pristine condition. I would suggest possibly making a DVD for EBay purchase.
Another great video, having used radios that require tuning since I received my novice license it amazes me as to the number of people that don't comprehend the term "dip the plate."
Thanks Alan
I pretty much tune up my TS-520 the same way. We must always save are wonderful boat anchors from the local landfill. I do mine. Would love to get a TS-830. One of the best Hybrids.
+famossfla it's not a boat anchor.
Without a doubt, the best video demo on tuning a Kenwood Hybrid radio! Crystal clear audio, video and staying on point without unnecessary confusing babble makes it easy to understand. My first HF rig was a TS-520S. Seeing others with solid state rigs and not having to tune up made me jealous. I couldn't wait to get a solid state rig to avoid the tuning process of a tube rig. But now I miss the hands on tuning process and the smell of the tubes. Those Kenwood hybrids are loaded with charm and excellent performance! I wish I had my exact TS-520S rig back now.
Thank you - the TS-830S was my unobtainable dream rig when I was first licensed nearly 40 yrs ago. I picked this on up about 20 yrs ago. Great rigs, and a lot of fun to operate.
For those of you using the old Dip and Load method to load your KW hybrid I submit you have not read your operating manual.
No where in the KW manuals does it describe this method. Why do you think KW provided the RF relative power position? Because they wanted rig to be self sufficient and external wattmeters were not common and were expensive.They understood the best way to load a grid driven tetrode SSB linear amp in Class AB1 config is to load for max rf output without exceeding maximum plate current. Using the Dip and Load method was only game in town for the old Class C grid leak bias CW transmitters of 50s and 60s. Using Dip and Load the heavier you load the less discernable the dip becomes. Not so with the RF meter position or external wattmeter. The output power indication remains very obvious and well defined. Also, dip or resonance and max output power will not be the same but takes too many key strokes to explain why here. I teach all new KW hybrid owners to load as their manual instructs them to do and better yet invest in an inline wattmeter.
For those who think the CAR Level and where you set it in CW mode will affect SSB loading you have vivid imaginations. The CAR level control provides variable dc voltage from approx 0 to 0.7vdc to bias on the diodes in the Balanced Modulator which is configured in ring diode. You are simply setting the level of DSBSC from the Bal Mod which becomes your 8.830mhz TIF signal which becomes your drive for the Transmit Mixer. Makes no difference whatsoever where you set the CAR level pot. In SSB mode there is no voltage from the CAR pot to the Bal Moduylator . You can confirm that if you measure your CV terminal in SSB mode. You would not want any dc bias voltage. The audio from the mic amp unbalances the BM.
Lastly when you peak the ALC you are not peaking grid current ( remember the cautions in the old days!). All this radio needs is maximum rf voltage swing at the control grids of the 6146 finals. When that happens the rf drive envelope exceeds the dc offset of the operating bias and the grid becomes positive with respect to the cathode and the minute a hint of grid current flows the ALC amp drives the ALC bus voltage down reducing the TIF amp rf output. With the ALC in middle of the black printed scale you have approx 38 ua of grid current and with the ALC pegged at meter full scale (FSD) there is approx 45ua of grid current. That is ua of grid current and not millliamperes.
What Allen has done is made it possible for newly licensed hams who have bought their first HF rig to easily load the radio with no understanding of parallel resonance, tank circuits, or how the KW hybrids work. Hopefully that will come with time. A much needed assist for these new people. For those of you stuck in Dip and Load world have a ball. OK to load that way, but I think I last did it in 1970 or so and sure dont teach it to new people.
Terry K9TW
Thank you very much for your help and advice on how this works I have a ts830s and tune for maximum rf on the rf setting position on tune then do it on cw and back car down to 100 watts approx been out of radio a long time but back now and learning thank you
G0myd
Step 8 of the TS-830S manual says, "Place the Mode switch to CW, Meter switch to Ip. Close the key and IMMEDIATELY redip the PLATE control. Reduce the carrier control setting if Ip reads over 265ma. Open the key."
Step 9 says to then switch meter to RF and peak the LOAD and PLATE for max RF output. It then makes a note that the dip point may not always coincide with max output because neutralization is accomplished on the 10 meter band and that you can simply adjust both PLATE and LOAD controls for max output.
Not sure if that's the "dip and load" method you refer to. But the note after Step 9 makes it sound like step 8 is optional. The summary table 4-1 also omits step 8. It also has a step where you peak RF power with the LOAD while still in TUNE mode before going to CW mode and then peaking the RF by alternately adjusting PLATE and LOAD.
I have a four or five of the solid state newer Rigs but I love my Hybrids! I have my TS-530 on the bench now. I need to get my TS-830 and my other 530 in somewhere for some TLC. My first Rig was the TS-830. Over the years I've owned five of them. I used to have my dad's old TS-820, and I had a 520 for a while. Don't know how to fix them so I just had to buy another. N9XFX
I did as Alan said on his video here and didnt worry about the 225ma which I had questioned him about. After I tuned mine the way he describes I checked to see if I was between 225 and 260ma which is okay according to the 830s manual and I was at 240ma @ near 100 watts out. My tubes are original so all is well. Easiest way I ever tuned this rig.
Thanks Alan !
Complimenti, bellissimo video esplicativo...chiaro e semplice da capire...Grazie, 73!
Excellent présentation...! Very concise and helpful...! Love those kenwood hybrid rigs...! I am buying a well maintained kenwood ts-830s from a fellow ham and friend and I am looking forward to hearing you on 40M...! 73 DE SV1OBI...
He adquirido recientemente un ts-530s,he visto distintas opciones de personas de como cargar un hibrido en la web,pero este es el que me ha resultado mas sencillo explicado y facil de entender... agradecido desde Uruguay-cx3et...
Thank you sooo much! This has helped me so many times!!, 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
many thanks really explained the process well easy to understand
Bought my TS830S new in '84 - still my only rig. Original tubes. Output between 115 to 125W. I'm not very active, and it was in storage for about 5 years but it works great. I originally was in the market for a Yaesu FT-102, but it was just discontinued. Glad I went with the Kenwood.
It really is a great rig, your certainly made the right choice all those years ago.
I just got ham gear for the first time. Got everything automatic. Including the antenna tuner. Guess I'd have to get use to the older gear in order to enjoy it. One thing I like about many modern "stuff" is how designers are on a never ending quest to make less work for everyone and I mean less work at every level.
I have tube radios (Drake) inherited from my father and with which I have never transmitted. This kind of videos will be of great help for me and future generations. Thanks.
Hi Alan, great video thanks. I wonder if you would mind doing a quick follow-up video going through the process again, this time on paper just with the theory behind each of the adjustments in terms of what is happening in the RF domain within the rig....ie, a recap of the RF theory to these great hybrid rigs. Many thanks for your great tutorials and videos.
interesting idea - i'll consider that...
***** I second the idea...
Super grateful for this video!! I have a TS-530S I bought late last year and I just got a set of 599D Twins (my dream rigs when I was a Novice in the late ‘70s). Looking forward to getting these two (three?) workhorses on the air! 73s WB3CFN
My first rig as Novice in 1979 was heath hw16 and hg10 vfo
Then in as a general in 1980 got the ts530s . About 650 dollars alot of money for a 16 year old kid back then
I have an 830 and 530 today
Hardly use them
Just for nostalgia
Thanks video
Thanks. Will need it as have one -830S.
I wish there was a video as clear as this to help me tune my FT-101ZD.
So many people tell me different and say don't use the instruction in the manual...unfortunately they are the only ones that make sense to me.
Excellence on display. Thank you for your time and effort!
Very clear and easy to understand demonstration. Nice job....nice radio!
I have 2 issues with mine. The first is in step 1, I never get any ALC reading. The second is, when I try the "high power" tuning procedure, I don't get any RF output unless I also close the key after setting the mode switch to CW and flipping the switch to send.
Any idea what could be wrong? The radio seems to work well, and I get full output and good signal reports.
When in SSB mode, if you want to see RF power you need to speak into the mic (with the mic level turned up to say 4 to 5). Sorry if I'm stating the obvious but that's the point of SSB - there's no carrier wave.
First HF rig I owned was a TS530S, not as "feature packed" as the 830. I fitted the FM board myself which was fun! I remember the driver bias resistor burnt out which was a costly repair because the resistor was virtually inaccessible so the tech had to drill a hole through the board to change it! One to remember if you ever get that problem! Great radios tho, wish I still had mine.
73 GW4WOV
Excelent explanation. Greetings from Chile.
Because of those radios have no general coverage receiver, selectivites were better than novaday's HF radios with bells and whistles and waterfalls 😏
Thank you for putting this up. There is a lot of bad info out on the web to do this.
73
Why mess around doing all that with the LOAD control at minimum? I've read where that is not good for the tank circuits. Just set the meter to RF, and tune for max output. Not necessarily the maximum power that can be achieved, but max output at less than full drive level. Then gradually increase the drive and adjust for maximum power output. I've used this method for over 30 years. The rig still works fine.
Hola Alan, has hecho un gran video muy bien explicado.
Felicitaciones.
Ce2wvz - Chile 🇨🇱
Great Tutorial..
Why my TS830s meter no movement after this instructions?
What a wonderful process on a beautiful radio.
I was able to peak the drive and dip the plate current, but when I put in cw mode and the meter at rf and switch to send the meter has 0 movement. Does that mean my final tube is bad?
Could also be a problem with the mode switch/
Many thanks buy this evening the 830M with new tubes great Rig gl. ON3MK Maurits 73,
Nice video with one exception: On my TS-830S, keying the microphone (MC-50) does not deflect the meter when ALC is selected, As the result, it is not possible to adjust the microphone gain using the method described in this video. With a Kenwood MC-50 microphone, the optimum setting of MIC is generally around "4" on the "0" to '10" scale.
Thank you very much for this video. Friend of mine has this Rig, but it has problem with transmits. When you hit the transmitt button the nidlle is stucked and it doesn't put out power. I will check all the comments below to see what is comented. Thank you again 73 de :)
Thanks for that. I don't own one of these radios but I've always wondered what those controls do. Seems like a lot of work to get on the air. Are these radios using valves or transistors? Im assuming valves. Also what's the heater button for on the bottom right corner?
It is a hybrid rig. All transistorized except for the RF power amplifier which uses 3 valves (tubes).
Hello Alan I enjoy all your videos.
Wondering if you're considering doing a video on the X1M 5 band transceiver
Something as you did on TT 1254 Receiver. An S-melter for the X1M also would be much appreciated along with a schematic walk-through.
The best
Thanks
Iif I had an X1M, I'd consider doing the videos you suggested. But, I don't have one at this time.
I would be happy to part from mine for a few weeks and send it to you free with prepaid return postage and appreciations if you would consider reviewing the X1M. My email is paul.chebi@att.net for privacy communication re mailing addresses etc. Thank you 73 de kk4ptv
Paul Chebi I realize it was presumptuous to ask you to do a review on my borrowed x1m. In fact I asked the woxun us re p to send you a free set for rev view as it would probably help them if you review ed the I unit. No response though.
With the current interest in the si510 HF generation, and the move in the Farhan Minima project I read about, and the lack of general info on the x1m notwithstanding its its apparent success and comparability with the 706 and 817', ii thought it would be very helpful to me at least, to sea what you think about it and suggest a stand alone s-meter to go along with it as you did for the tt1254.
With best wishes de kkrptv
good teacher! And now transistor finals men finally know what "dip the finals" means.
I can't adjust the S-Meter, it does not work will have to get it to a shop in my area.
Es necesario explicaciones en español, o la impresión de un manual del usuario en español para mejor ajuste de este excelente tranceiver.- ESPERO TOMEN NOTA Y NOS AYUDEN EDITANDO UN MANUAL EN ESPAÑOL.- MARIO MERESMAN dNI 6029978 - PARANÁ - ARGENTINA
Your a lucky man, not having to cope wi menus, wish I had one or a Ts50 G0dhz.
Does the plate tuning knob go all the way around. Mine does.
yes.
Great job. Nice video and simple, concise explanation. I do this every day on my TS-530. Like another commenter, i rarely use the meter at RF for final tune but keep it at IP and adjust load and plate for a dip at 225ma. I also have an external SWR/Watt meter so i can see the SWR dip and RF Peak at the same time.
HERE IS AN IDEA FOR US LISTENERS----LETS HEAR THE RECEIVE AUDIO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks this is helpful. I have a TS-530S and it has been a long time since I used it. I have the manual but you video was a lot clearer.
How do you know if your operating with about 225ma ??
Excellent.
Hey Alan- question for you (hoping you still get these comments after posting it 4 years ago). I'm tuning the 830S for 10m following your procedure. However I notice that, after peaking the drive and dipping the plate, I can only get peak rf power with the LOAD fully meshed. If I move it clockwise at all it starts to drop. So I'm left with peaking rf power with the plate. Is that normal or 10m? Also I only end up with about 60W average power when done tuning in CW mode.
All of the radios are different. Of course, it also depends on what load you're tuning into. In general though, you should have a little wiggle room on either end, even on 10m. So, it's possible you have some other components that have drifted a bit over time. It is common for these rigs to have less output power on 10m as compared to the lower bands.
What does CAR stand for ? Carrier ?
yes
Someone wants to sell me the 830s for 300$ yay or nay
That is what they're typically selling for when in good working order.
05
Just curious…. I just received one of these radios. Does tuning up as this video shows eliminate the need for an antenna tuner?
In many cases, yes. But of course, it depends on how bad the antenna system is in the first place.
@@w2aewI’m guessing I’d need an external swr meter…. Not seeing one on the radio.
@@brianr76 No, not needed. As long as you can dip the plate and peak the RF, you're OK. An external SWR meter will NOT help as it would show the SWR on the output side of the tuned network - it will not show the effect of adjusting the output PI network.
@@w2aew thank you. One more question as you seem fairly knowledgeable about these radios…. I need to have the power cord replaced because it’s frayed and looks like it was chewed on by something. Is there a specific cord type/amp rating I should use, or just any standard two prong ac cord will do?
@@brianr76 The stock cord was an ordinary 2-prong AC cord, so that would work.
My alc doesn't seem to work is it okay to use the RF in this process while doing the first two steps before the plate
It is difficult to say for sure, but as long as the dip and peaking process worked, you may be ok.
@@w2aew yes plate diped a little
I got the alc to work just needed to turn the carrier up a little bit
Alan, explanation of the tuning in SSB mode is not complete, without adjustment of the compression level, when the processor is switched.
The compression level is something that you typically set once, not every time you change frequency. These infrequently adjusted and checked thing like compression level, idle current and CW plate current aren't covered in this video since the intent was to focus on the proper tuneup process, not the complete rig setup.
Is possible for the meter on this rig to indicate the wattage output or do you need a separate wattmeter for this?
It's best to use an outboard power meter.
@@w2aew Ah. Ok. Thanks for the tip.
@@w2aew Ok, thanks.
Thank you...that was super helpful!
I get a dead reading when adjusting for the Mic. Needle barely moves at all. Any ideas?
As long as you're getting good power out at SSB, then don't worry about it. On my rig, I only get a little ALC reading, even with the Processor on. Without the processor, I barely get a ALC reading. It is not a problem.
Thanks very much for making and sharing this video. I have just agreed to buy a clean and tidy TS530 and found this very useful as I know nothing about hybrids but want to learn. Please can you tell me if I do this procedure every time I change frequencies or is it every time I change bands?
It's a good idea to retune if you adjust your frequency significantly, such as 20-40kHz or more on the low bands or 50-100kHz on the high bands. And, you MUST do it when you change bands.
@@w2aew Thanks very much, I appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Like!, but where does the coal go in?
Actually I'm going for my license and am interested hybrid radios. Since the provisions of my initial license preclude me from radio mods and >10w I can only dream of using one of these. Suppose I could buy one for later. I note these can have the power output turned down via a pot in the ALC and a 9v battery in reverse polarity :)
+Stevo Reno...probably the single worst piece of advice EVER OFFERED on UA-cam. Do NOT EVER mod these beautiful radios for out-of-band operation.
It's OK I'm Licensed now guys.
been trying to find one of these for my first HF radio, i wanna stick to a budget of less than $400 (for radio only) any other recommendations?
should be noted, mainly looking for data modes (psk31/rtty etc), along with SSB.
Note that hybrid rigs like this aren't the best choice for modes like psk31 because it is more difficult to set them to run at low power. You'd be better off with a more modern solid state rig for the digital modes, in my opinion. Otherwise the Kenwood hybrid rigs like these are really great - super for SSB operation and CW operation. You should be able to easily find one for less than $400 in good shape.
w2aew Ok, any recommendations? Also looking at 6m, so a newer radio that includes that band is a bonus for me. I was originally looking at the FT450D but it seems those are going up in price lately. Placed bids on a few at around 450$ but honestly I'm not really looking for the latest and greatest HF and spending the extra cash isn't an option for me just yet. I have an OCF windom ready to go up when i get my radio.
Interesting! Thank you!
Great video. I've had my 830S about 2 years, and it seems to work just fine, though I probably peak out at about 80 watts according to the power meter on my Kenwood Antenna Tuner AT-230. As far as dipping the plate goes, if I have the selector in the "Tune" position, meter on "IP", and activate "Send", I never get any movement out of the meter. So that approach has never worked for me. Instead I put the selector on CW, and using the plate and load controls try to achieve maximum power without exceeding 225 ma on the IP meter.
Do you have any idea on why I would get no movement of the IP meter in TUNE mode, but it works just fine in CW mode? Anybody else experiencing the same issue.
Have properly adjusted the DRIVE and CAR controls? Maybe the bias adjustment on the rear needs adjustment or is faulty
***** Yes, I adjusted DRIVE and CAR just like you instructed. Hmm, bias adjustment? Gotta dig out the manual.
Thanks so much for showing me how to tune this rig. It helped greatly!!! 73
+jbuddyman Follow the manual!
Would be so awesome if you could do the same video but on Yeasu FT102.
Well - if I had access to an FT-102, I would.
@@w2aew I have ft102 and I love it to bits. One of the finest radios ever made. There is some weird issue with frequency counter, after hour or two of operation it start showing 6khz les than it should and very last digit would display random numbers... apart of that it's all good. Anyway, thank you so much for your awesome videos, best ham radio content ever!
What output tubes does this transmitter use?
6146B
Most probably 6146b's
Hi, I have TRIO TS-510. Do you know if i can use this tubes for the ts-510? 73
They are somewhat compatible with the S2001 tubes used in the 510. There is some additional info I found here:
www.redwaveradio.com/2_ee3ac4eac172cd57_1.htm
***** Thank you very much :)
I know this is an old video but how would i reduce the power output to drive an amp? Lower the drive?
When using an amp, it's usually best to use the ALC connection between the amp and the rig (if the amp has one). If not, then the two recommended ways to reduce the output power of the TS-830 are to a) reduce the LOAD control, or b) use an adjustable DC voltage on the ALC input. These methods are described in these two references respectively:
www.k4eaa.com/TQ1.htm
www.wb4hfn.com/KENWOOD/Articles/TS-830%20Survival%20Guide-01.pdf
@@w2aew Thanks. VE3WF
Where do you put the cds: -)
About much would one of these in great condition go for today?
In the US, typical prices for a TS-830S in very good condition will vary between $350 to $500.
Hi @w2aew,
I have trio TS-510 , can i use this process to tune up the transceiver?
I've never used a TS-510, but the process should be similar.
We made the antenna an hour ago, and when the radio doesnt transmit. It's old rig which wasn't used for a 10years or more. It receives excellent but the transmit doesn't work. It has the voltage but no Ampers are going out. (sory for my bad English)
Very cool, Thx.
great video
what happens when the needle doesnt move on drive or load? final tubes go out?
dont see any rf out on meter either. using a kenwood ts 530s
thanks
jeff
ke7ace
Make sure your heater switch is on. Are the three tubes lit up? You may want to have the tubes tested to begin with, but there certainly could be a different problem.
just realized the send switch was on when i turned on radio. not sure if that matters or not.
think the kid messed with radio while i wasnt looking. i think the power was fading over the past few weeks started out at 110 watts then down to 80-90. then it wouldnt tune up past 50 watts. then now nothing, do you know how much a set of tubes cost? thanks jeff ke7ace
I don't know the cost of new tubes these days. Of course, you really should test the tube before spending the money. Another thing to check is to see if the HV plate voltage is present during transmit. I believe that this is one of the things you can read on the meter.
I thought you would always check your plate Current before anything, should be 60ma!
It should be checked periodically. Once set properly via the rear panel control, it shouldn't need adjustment again.
I usually start by checking the idle plate current is around 50ma so I know the tubes are ready.
Yes, always a good idea.
Should'nt it be 60MA???
Neil Beeson 60mA is the maximum - I usually try to keep it a little under, a little safety margin.
excellent job!
EXCLENTE, PARABENS.
Sorry but you are wrong about the ALC scale. It means nothing at all at this point. Kenwood reprinted manuals later that said to keep it in the ALC when peaking the drive but before hand they never said to keep it in the ALC during drive peaking.
+mykenwood830 It does matter, because if it's not set properly prior, you can't load properly. Also, it peaks the receive gain.
+remingtonh Ok i stand corrected !! thanks.
Whats sitting on top of the 830s?
A Kenwood TS-870S
Its been awhile, I didn't know how far Kenwood went past the 830. Thanks for the video, great look at a beauty of a transceiver!
Can you show how to use the antenna tuner with this also?
Thanks
I'll usually tune into a dummy load first. Then, switch in the tuner and roughly adjust it for max receive noise. Then, put rig back into TUNE mode to cut power. Then tune the antenna with the tuner, without touching the rig controls. Then switch back to full power and recheck the peak using PLATE and LOAD.
Thanks!!!
***** I would imagine that if the finals are already tuned into a 50 ohm dummy load, they're good and don't need to be "readjusted". The idea now is to tune the coupler (no tuner tunes the antenna, it just tries to match the impedance of the radio to the feedpoint impedance of the antenna) to best match impedance for minimum SWR. Wonder how that works with an auto tuner.....probably the same way.
+Jeff Wimmer (Mustang) I agree with this. No need to readjust plate and load simply because you switch to tune for a second, to tune the antenna. More wear and tear on the transceiver doing this every single time. (unless you're tuning because you drastically changed frequency, then you need to retune the drive and finals anyway.)
+Jeff Wimmer (Mustang) Also, I use an auto-tuner. Switching to TUNE and keying puts out about 15 watts, perfect for an autotuner.
Alan, as a former 830 owner this brings back memories. But I never resolved how far from the original tune-up freq you should repeat the process. Every 20-40 khz? More? The whole band?
Guessing it should be only maxing the plate controls, right?
Good Video - I have a TS-530S (recently acquired) and have done *a lot* of research, including studying the manual. A couple of things. I really think you should follow the manual, and while in TUNE, switch to RF and peak the Load, to preset that before switching to full power. Easier on the Finals.
Also, especially a new operator, open the key (switch from SEND to REC) immediately after dipping the plate. Let cool, then Switch to SEND and immediately Peak the RF, unkey (switch to REC.) Let Cool, then switch back to IP and RE-DIP the PLATE, ensuring that it is below 265ma. Somewhere around 225ma-260ma is appropriate. Then you're done.
This is per the manual, and I would strictly follow it's directions.
+remingtonh You mention that you would and also suggest that people follow the manual and not Alans method in this video. You never state WHY you are suggesting people to NOT follow his procedure and to follow the manual, strictly. Bit of a problem there is you want people to actually consider your suggestion but give no reason why.
Lastly, do you have a EE degree, work for one of the world leaders in occilloscopes and have a YT channel with nearly 50k subscribers and over 200 videos delving deep into electronic and RF theory as well as practical application complete with hand made diagrams with calculations firming up the content? I mean....if you did.....then just off-the-cuff telling people to do something "might" fly.
Not being negative or mean or anything....just some simple question and answer. At least this inquiring mind would like to know.
+Brian Streufert I'll admit I don't know who Alan is, and I'm sure he's far more knowledgable than me, however, I am approaching this from the perspective of a *new operator* (the target of this video, I'm sure).
A new operator will be slower at tuning the finals, and running full power in CW while tuning the finals, while taking extra time alternating between load and plate will stress the finals while they are detuned.
The manual states the life of the final tubes is dependent on the SWR and how long the tuning process is. I think it's important to stress, to new operators, the importance of keeping the tuning process as short as possible. A few seconds in transmit at the most.
Once the operator is experienced and confident enough to tune both load and plate within 5 seconds, then I'm sure leaving the switch in "send" while that is accomplished is fine.
This is perfect! Thanks!