most people strip either the high or low gear during milling , so youre setup kept the weak point still in there but the setup did gave me an idea to put a brass gear in there and drive it off that gear same as you did , this leaves the spindle free to go up and down i still need to keep it lubricated but it shouldnt wear as fast as steel on steel gears might make it so i can press fit a wider gear on the spindle to get some better wear on the parts
I have had the plastic gear tear out of mine. Grizzly sent another, free.It was my fault, climb milling manually with the stock lead screw..... lots of backlash and a 1” endmill grabbed it hard.Its nice to think a V belt will slip and in industry we sometimes have that thought but my experience is they don’t. The torque a v belt can give, if setup well, will destroy a lot of equipment before it fails.One theory is that Grizzly used a plastic gear as a planned point of failure to protect other components.I am a Millwright and if I ever feel the need for a “load limit release” I would use a shear pin, never rely on a belt slipping. That said belts are slipped as a clutch in some systems but even then once that belt is “engaged” don’t think it will slip and save something from over torque....
+skyfire360 Hi. There are slotted holes in the flat plate - I just use my hand to push it until there is tension on the belt, then I lock the mounting screws. So far, I've not seen any slipping. I will say this: When running at speeds around 1500 RPM or less, I definitely feel better running in low range as the gearing reduction allows the motor to run at a reasonable RPM rather than slowing down to the point where you have no horse-power.
Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/_1KHjXSlO2k/v-deo.html It's been a while since I worked on that mill - I don't actually remember where that plastic gear is located. I never broke mine but lots of people do complain about that. I think it may happen when they are using big drill bits.
@@FrancoCNC thank you very much. The quality of the gears in the G0704 and G0758 mill seem way better than the crap plastic gears in the mini lathes. Since it is new and under warranty I think I'll run it as is for awhile and see what happens.
Really enjoy your videos. Any possibility you could make another just focusing on the mod and it's components with a little better lighting on the parts.
Thanks. I'm glad you find the videos helpful. As soon as I have a few moments, I'll make another video with more details. I may be able to slap together a few drawings of the parts, as well...
You did a god job, but you should remove the high / low gears and connect the v-belt direct to the spindle. With a transmission 1:1, the speed range is 0 to 4500 rpm and with direct belt drive you have much more torque to the shaft mill or to a fly cutter.
+CncObsession Hi. I replaced the brass gear that was on the motor shaft and the plastic gear the meshed with it on the top of the Hi-Low shaft with pulleys and a belt. There are two more plastic gears inside of the housing that make the high/low range work. They are still there and I haven't had any problems with them.
Hi Suburban. Thanks for your comment. I'd say you are correct. I've noticed some slipping during the entry of really heavy cuts. I've also noticed some slipping if I have a "big" (let's say 1/2") end mill that gets fully nested into a equal size (1/4") radius. None of this has chipped my tools in aluminum, but I can hear it happening and I suppose it's hard on the belt and pulleys. I make a point to change the tool path if I hear slipping. All that being said, I'm EXTREMELY happy with my belt drive conversion. I run this thing at ~3400 RPM hours on end when I'm milling. When I'm drilling, it's really easy to turn the knob and drop it down into low gear for added torque. I've made a lot of parts with this mill and I've never had any problems with the gears.
I don't like it. You are not getting rid ofthe gears that are the real problem of this machine. I can see also the motor hanging on a long "floating" plate. Motor moved to one side, unbalancing the weight of the head. If you plan to use a bigger motor you will strip the gears in a minute. Definetely, this was a fast done mod.
Hi. Yes, it was done quickly but it works great. I've made a LOT of parts with this setup and have had no problems with gears. Second to the CNC conversion, it was the best thing I ever did to the mill. Of course, there are other ways to increase RPM but this configuration worked well for me. What method did you use to increase RPM?
most people strip either the high or low gear during milling , so youre setup kept the weak point still in there
but the setup did gave me an idea to put a brass gear in there and drive it off that gear same as you did , this leaves the spindle free to go up and down i still need to keep it lubricated but it shouldnt wear as fast as steel on steel gears
might make it so i can press fit a wider gear on the spindle to get some better wear on the parts
Hello, I have a BF16. It's almost the same design.
Could I know under what name to look for the aluminum wheels for the pulley ? Thank you
I have had the plastic gear tear out of mine. Grizzly sent another, free.It was my fault, climb milling manually with the stock lead screw..... lots of backlash and a 1” endmill grabbed it hard.Its nice to think a V belt will slip and in industry we sometimes have that thought but my experience is they don’t. The torque a v belt can give, if setup well, will destroy a lot of equipment before it fails.One theory is that Grizzly used a plastic gear as a planned point of failure to protect other components.I am a Millwright and if I ever feel the need for a “load limit release” I would use a shear pin, never rely on a belt slipping. That said belts are slipped as a clutch in some systems but even then once that belt is “engaged” don’t think it will slip and save something from over torque....
Slick. Do you have a tensioner adjustment for the belt? If not, do you find it slips during cuts?
+skyfire360 Hi. There are slotted holes in the flat plate - I just use my hand to push it until there is tension on the belt, then I lock the mounting screws. So far, I've not seen any slipping. I will say this: When running at speeds around 1500 RPM or less, I definitely feel better running in low range as the gearing reduction allows the motor to run at a reasonable RPM rather than slowing down to the point where you have no horse-power.
Which gears are prone to stripping? The set inside or the set on top? I'm looking to do a mod like this. I just got my mill. Thanks
Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/_1KHjXSlO2k/v-deo.html
It's been a while since I worked on that mill - I don't actually remember where that plastic gear is located. I never broke mine but lots of people do complain about that. I think it may happen when they are using big drill bits.
@@FrancoCNC thank you very much. The quality of the gears in the G0704 and G0758 mill seem way better than the crap plastic gears in the mini lathes. Since it is new and under warranty I think I'll run it as is for awhile and see what happens.
The one outside should go first to protect the ones inside which are harder to replace,,,, he has moved the problem to a more difficult area.
i cant hear him..?
Really enjoy your videos. Any possibility you could make another just focusing on the mod and it's components with a little better lighting on the parts.
Thanks. I'm glad you find the videos helpful. As soon as I have a few moments, I'll make another video with more details. I may be able to slap together a few drawings of the parts, as well...
Whisper quiet too
You did a god job, but you should remove the high / low gears and connect the v-belt direct to the spindle. With a transmission 1:1, the speed range is 0 to 4500 rpm and with direct belt drive you have much more torque to the shaft mill or to a fly cutter.
Have you replaced the plastic gears that were the real iissue?
+CncObsession Hi. I replaced the brass gear that was on the motor shaft and the plastic gear the meshed with it on the top of the Hi-Low shaft with pulleys and a belt. There are two more plastic gears inside of the housing that make the high/low range work. They are still there and I haven't had any problems with them.
_Theoretically_ the belt should slip before the plastic gears are destroyed. _Theoretically_.
Hi Suburban. Thanks for your comment. I'd say you are correct. I've noticed some slipping during the entry of really heavy cuts. I've also noticed some slipping if I have a "big" (let's say 1/2") end mill that gets fully nested into a equal size (1/4") radius. None of this has chipped my tools in aluminum, but I can hear it happening and I suppose it's hard on the belt and pulleys. I make a point to change the tool path if I hear slipping. All that being said, I'm EXTREMELY happy with my belt drive conversion. I run this thing at ~3400 RPM hours on end when I'm milling. When I'm drilling, it's really easy to turn the knob and drop it down into low gear for added torque. I've made a lot of parts with this mill and I've never had any problems with the gears.
Franco - internal gears - no temperature problems? I would think that 4000rpm fir long stints would heat it up and trash them.
Hi. I've run at 3500 RPM for hours on end. No problems as of yet.
I don't like it. You are not getting rid ofthe gears that are the real problem of this machine. I can see also the motor hanging on a long "floating" plate. Motor moved to one side, unbalancing the weight of the head. If you plan to use a bigger motor you will strip the gears in a minute. Definetely, this was a fast done mod.
Hi. Yes, it was done quickly but it works great. I've made a LOT of parts with this setup and have had no problems with gears. Second to the CNC conversion, it was the best thing I ever did to the mill. Of course, there are other ways to increase RPM but this configuration worked well for me. What method did you use to increase RPM?