Desoldering Through Hole Header Pins
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- Опубліковано 3 лис 2018
- I had to replace the through hole headers on this Arduino shield PCB because the original headers were too short and the shield was touching components on the Arduino Uno.
I used two methods to get the headers off the board with a soldering iron. I couldn't use hot air because I didn't want to damage nearby header bodies and I don't have a proper desoldering vacuum tool.
Aside from one minor issue, all went well and now the shield can dock to the Arduino with proper clearance.
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You saved my bacon bud. Spent 3 hrs trying to pry off a pro micro I soldered in backwards. It hurt to dump solder back on after I spent so much time cleaning it, but dang if it did not just fall clean out almost instantly. Thanks a bunch!
lol i did the exact same thing with the exact same device.
You just saved my but mate. Threw in some 2x20 pin headers the wrong way. Removing the plastic and afterwards cleaning up using a solder pump left me with clean through holes and I could fix the crap I made. 👍👍
Excellent project
I usually double stack the plastic spreader strips so that the boards seat solidly together.
There is a bang method that we invented in the 70s, because I never hear anyone else mention it, where you heat the pad and quickly bang the edge of the PCB on a hard table and it knocks the solder out leaving a clean hole. I don't use sponges I just tap the handle of the soldering iron on a table and inertia throws the solder off the tip.
I like this "bang" method.
The tap method works, but it's hard to do. Most of the time you end up having to hold the board at a weird angle to get heat to the joint while still being able to tap it down quickly enough (you don't have much time).
I’ve flicked the iron in the air toward the table to get solder off the tip before but never tried a board against the table. Maybe I will try that.
@@jasonmhite Some of us like frying our bacon naked, too!
I use this alot, I have also used a straw to blast the solder out when its molten, reverse solder sucker
Thank you your video helped me tremendously
Thank you..this tips really useful
Thank you! Super helpful!
Useful tip !
Saved my butt thanks
hey buddy, useful tip! greetings from Brazil!
Thanks!
Hey Gord! I keep tiny drill bits and bore out the hole when I get close instead of repeatedly heating the pad.
I've very careful when I'm boring the hole, if it catches I turn the bit backward for a bit and that helps.
I don’t have any drillbits small enough right now but it’s worth remembering the next time there’s a sale or if I stumble across a cheap Chinese listening. Any excuse to go shopping for tools.
You also can try to use a wooden toothpick for making a hole. Just heat the solder on the pad and stick a toothpick right through
worked like a charm
Just saved me bigtime
I love Canadian accents…ooot lol. Thanks for the tutorial. I guess single pin at a time is the way to go.
sometimes it’s the only way to get those pins oot (and aboot)
ever since I bought an Electric Desoldering iron with the vacuum pump, getting through hole parts out has been exponentially easier. It completely cleans the through hole and sometimes the parts just drop out or else they just need a slight nudge with a screwdriver tip to free that one little strand of solder.
When you go from prototyping to final product, do you remove the header pins and solder the permanent connections right to the board or do you solder the wires to the header pins?
usually the header pins are either there intentionally for other things to plug into or they are for Prototyping like debug serial ports and onboard flashing in which case I would just leave them present but depopulated so they could be used on the workbench.
I use a spring loaded solder sucker, works way better than the wick
Wow. I wish I sad seen this video before I fried my $250 car ECU trying to remove IC chips that weren't even going to be reused. I should have just cut the legs off and de-soldered one leg at a time. I ended up paying $270 for the metal electronic de-solder pump tool because of how frustrated I was.
Yeah, this is a total pain. I find with cheap boards, the through hole copper just gets pulled out, destroying the ability to resold them, so I don't do this anymore.
In your case, I'd suggest just using two level of pins.
SRA Fast Chip Solder and Flux kit. The special alloy solder stays molten for much longer so it's easy to remove multiple pins simultaneously.
Ideally you'd want the female headers to be longer and the male ones on the shield regular size
That said good info on desoldering thanks
Use a copper wire bent to the size of the header. Add more solder to it and the pins then let the header fall out. Less work, better results.
What temperature is your soldering iron for this?
I usually use 350c and try to only stay in one place a few seconds
Velleman sells a cheap desoldering iron that works great for this, and only costs ~$10.
worh a try? www.banggood.com/220V-30W-Electric-Vacuum-Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Pump-Iron-Gun-Welding-Tool-p-1194115.html
Looks like they have some other interesting things worth browsing also. Thanks for the pointer. $10 is worth a shot
I’m getting trigger happy today.
@@GadgetReboot I have one, it's not a substitute for a proper vacuum gun but it's 1000x better than pump/wick/screaming at the solder for way less than a full gun.
I tried 1st method and able to take the entire pin header out. But one of the hole became clotted. I can't fit new pin to that hole.
Anytime I have tried that first method I have ripped out plating or vias
I always had more trouble with the solder wick especially on surface mount pads until I learn to keep it in one place and not try to scrape the solder away with the wick. But accidents still happen and I wish I had a proper desoldering vacuum iron.
Gadget Reboot i bought a cheapo bulb
Iron it has helped a little bit, I find flux helps with the braid, some doesnt have enough in it
How do you not burn by touching the solder wick with your hand? I burn my hand almost instantly lol
I mute the yelling parts out of the video. Usually I try to hold it by the plastic casing or if I must hold it by the copper, I just keep moving away as the heat chases me
@@GadgetReboot Get yourself a pair of medical clamps :)
@@AdamAllport I ordered some that never came from ebay, but I did receive reverse tweezers that are the same concept and that's saved me!
@@GadgetReboot Aye, I've resulted to outting the holder at the hinge of the clamps, dead handy.
Great vid btw!
1:31 that's so true I just got stuck here
unluckily I need to do it on an Arduino nano which almost by default cannot have a bunch of flux heated enough to melt solder safely......
thanks for the video tho, its very useful and informative, I though I was just bad at desoldering joints but turns out it's an issue for everyone XD
I wish I saw this before I destroyed my PCB. Ugh...
here is a good little tip when your removing components from boards, and want an easy way to clear the holes from solder: ua-cam.com/video/q9SfDNPPJ6s/v-deo.html
an other option is using "desolder hollow needles", links in next comment
www.banggood.com/8Pcs-Stainless-Steel-Hollow-Needles-Core-Desoldering-Tool-Set-p-928740.html
ua-cam.com/video/2wcFr-lO9Eo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/NlkebIBpw80/v-deo.html
They don't really work on holes like this, there's not enough space between the hole and the pin for the needle to fit.
That reminds me I bought a set of needles in the past couple of months but haven’t tried them yet. But I’m thinking the hole was a very small one for these headers and I don’t know if I could have gotten a needle in.
oh shit this menthod new i know, i broke my pro mini using blower solder and i depressed
Just pull the black plastic off then desolder each pin
Here is the thang: www.aliexpress.com/store/product/20pcs-Black-2-54-mm-Stackable-Long-Legs-Female-Header-For-Arduino-Shield/1089753_32650300952.html
I just tried to desolder few and then rage ripped with side cutters. It's a mess.
Now watching tutorials 🙄