Water Level Sight Gauge - How to make a water level indicator for a culvert cistern or tank
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2013
- Here is a how to on how I made a float/pulley water level indicator for my culvert rainwater cistern. This is not a 'reverse' level indicator that shows the water at a reverse level, this uses a float and pulley to give you an accurate measurement without having to tap, feel, or look in the top of the tank. I positioned this one where I can see it from a window, for viewing during a rain. Thanks for watching
For the mechanism detail you can skip to 3:53 or so to get the details of the system.
That's the head of a vintage soldering iron, which usually had a steel shaft and a wooden handle. The head was placed in front of an old blowtorch to heat it up, then it was used to melt solder for various tin work. My father used to have one, and he used it on occasion to make gas and sewage tanks for boats.
Wow, that's a work of art. I just connect a clear plastic hose to my metal tank and open the spigot - then watch how high the water rises up when I hold the hose up next to the tank.
Great idea!! My family has been using an ancient underground Byzantine cistern for centuries. For the level control they use a reed placed on a glass bottle and at the top there is a small red flag. When the cistern is full the flag is at its maximum height and vice versa.
Clever solution to the problem. It is very cool that you included Great Grand Dad's memory in the project. I really enjoyed the video. Well done.
GFD472 Thanks GFD! I actually just posted a video of a tour of this cistern and another look at this water level gauge if you're interested:)
Joe
Nice touch with the heirloom weight. I constructed a similar (less complex) system for my IBC Tote that is wrapped in black plastic. I used a fishing bobber on one end of monofilament line inside the tote and a large nut that glides up/down on a fixed guide wire. I cut a hole through the tote top near the edge attached a 1/2" PVC pipe with elbow to guide the monofilament line into the tank to eliminate friction/wear on it. I did need to add a couple 5 gram weights to the bobber to counter balance my system. I used copper sinkers to take advantage of copper's algaecide properties. To keep insects out of the pvc elbow I stretched a piece of panty hose with a small puncture hole for the monofilament line. Works pretty good and I can see relatively easy what my volume is.
I forgot how you did this, and I am happy to have bumped into the video again years later
Neat idea, In lieu of cutting a door into the top of the tank, I used a
(Search term) SEAFLO Marine Deck Access Hatch & Lid - (14.75" x 10.6")
Also, using the soldering iron was cool. You will see it every time you look at the tank instead of it sitting in a drawer until someone ends up throwing it out. I know like I know, Great-grandpa would approve.
Great idea and I have a simple addition which is the work of rubber ring on the metal block to avoid clicking on the tank by the wind and avoid the annoying sound during the night and thanks
Excellent contraption, just one main flaw: the tank is no longer air tight to prevent entry of insects and sunlight which can lead to water contamination (algae, dead bugs and mosquitoes breeding).
I'll be copying this over the weekend. Many thanks!
We have been looking for a good water collection system for our garden well away from our house for a while. Your videos are great and have helped us decide that the culvert cistern is perfect to catch it from our barn! Thanks for the great ideas!
Seth Counts Awesome to hear Seth! I love the look of the culvert cisterns... I'm actually going to be helping to install another one in about a week. Also, stay tuned as I should be doing a tour of my whole house system which will show a bit more on this cistern as well as my poly tanks that hold the majority of our water. We live on rainwater for over 90% of the year so it's definitely something we're into:) Would love to see how yours turns out!
PS- I have an article on backwoodshome.com showing how I installed this cistern and a diagram of my plans if you're interested. (search authors/articles for J. Mooney)
Joe
Seth - take your kids pics off your avatar...
@@homesteadonomics i
Excellent 👌👌👌👍👍. Great engineering skills.
Thank you for sharing..
Thanks for this video. It is the first one I found searching for this tip.
Some quality work there. I was a little bit sad when you cut up that awesome old soldering iron but after seeing the finished product it is great you were able to re-purpose some thing that might not get used.
Very clever idea! No need to drill a hole in the tank for a tube.
Worked in the high end metal crafting field. Best way to clean old copper without damage is set it in a bowl and cover with tomato sauce, spaghetti sauce etc Usually only takes less than an hour soaking to regain original shine. Just rinse off in water.
Nice and simple engineering steps of doing it.....thanks for the information ....
Very cool, thanks for sharing this and the cistern build, I know what I'll be doing this summer.
+George De Vecchi Thanks George! I think you're gonna enjoy having one once you get it finished... I will say it is bit of work but well worth it in the end:)
Joe
This is what I did. I'm in Africa....i don't have access to all your materials...i used a mineral water bottles tied with a rope at both bottles' necks. The one bottle to enter the tank has much water volume that the bottle outside(to control gravity). When the tank gets full, the floated bottle in water comes to the top, making the other bottle outside dropping down to indicate tank is full. And when the water is going down, the same yours goes down inside, mine does same. I only need the pully
Post a video!
Another option that is inexpensive, has no moving parts and simple is an "S" curve sight guage. (all measurements are approximate) Get a length of 1/4 (ID) inch clear plastic tubing that is over three times the height of your rainbarrel. Twelve feet of tubing costs less than $10.
1. Weight one end and sink it to the bottom of your barrel.
2. Drill two small holes at the top (above fill line) or run the tubeing into the top.
3. Run the tube out of the first hole to the outside and run the tube to the bottom of barrel and secure. (I run it around the faucet)
4. Run the tube back up to the top and into the second hole (optional). I do this to keep the tube clean as I net the barrel against mosquitoes.
5. Leave about a foot or two of hose inside and make sure it stays above the fill line. The extra length is to suck with. (I secure things with tie-tabs)
6. Suck the water into the tube until it reaches the current water level.
That's It! No moving parts. As the water level in the barrel moves up and down, the water level in the tube will follow
Thanks! This is the simplest solution.
I added a brightly colored floating bead for visibility, and because we get freezing temps, I added an acrylic box(black back for solar) & thermal cord to heat the tube & spigot.
Great idea !! I never would have thought that one up on my own. Lol
That is an nice design. I found this vid when trying to figure out how to make a diy non-electrical water level system for my boat water tank, so this approach won't work for me but I like what you did. One thing I wonder is what the old soldering iron is going to sound like against that corrugated tank on windy nights but I imagine that a vertical channel made of wood surrounding its range on 3 sides and lined with outdoor carpeting or something would take care of that. For my boat I think I'm just going to use some transparent teflon or PEX tubing to make a sight glass running vertically where I can see it that connects the tank outflow at the bottom with a new fitting near the top of the tank.
This is amazing! I was considering using a fluid tube to show the level of a black tank...but that would be very unpleasant. This is a much better analog gauge idea =)
It's fancy and pretty cool to see it operate. A clear plastic tube on the outside of the tank can be installed in minutes and -- voila! -- you'll see your water level. As long as the outlet of the tube is higher than your tank it will not leak. You can feed it back into your tank, too, if you're worried about it.
I think with sunlight hitting it, that would grow algae in your system.
Excellent, Super idea.
Thx
👍❤
I am from Sri Lanka Bro
genau dass was ich brauche!
einfach genial
danke für dein Video
lieben Gruß aus Deutschland
André
U really are a handy man.. lucky wife..lol.. nowadays very few guys know how to work with their hands
Clever design & implementation.
What a great video. Well done.
Very good lesson. Thanks
That is a very clever system.
I am thoroughly impressed.
Adam Maina Thanks Adam:)
very good idea , what are the centre to centre dimension between the pation door rollers
That tool is a black smiths soldering Iron. You heat the iron or copper or such with a flame and melt the solder down to the tip and it solders. I have several and have used them here in Chile. I brought mine from the former USA. Jim
What is the name of the rubber sealant you used to waterproof the cistern?
Very cool well done project. Nice!
Fernando Yáñez Thanks Fernando! The indicator has been at the max fill level for the last month and a half due to our monsoon rains! Overall, a very easy project to do with just a little experimentation to get the weights right:)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Joe
How do you keep bugs out?
Very nice indicator
Been using culverts for years. Always galvanized iron pipe. No freezing problems.
We use floating eps {foam] lids. Gauge is a no brainer. Have 14,000 gallons
of storage. 4 ft diameter best bang for the buck. Tall leaders @ front and back of
house, and transfer to large storage. All that pvc piping good for Xmas lights.
If you live in Tucson, you probably know who I am.
The Mikey Block Channel Hey Mikey, I live in Sahuarita but I'm not sure I know you? But am interested, maybe I could come do a tour of your place sometime? Sounds like you've got a great set up:) Thanks for watching and let me know!
Joe
I need your help
I search online but I didn't find what I need
I would like to have automatic wifi level water pool farm salt water do you have any idea where to find them
Best regards
Please post a link where to buy this culvert & lid.
Plz can you tell me the theory
I want the theory for since program plz
Thank for the information
good tradesman work bro...all i'd do is replace soldering iron head with 3-4" red plastic float ball, n do same with plastic container...get strong winds n outside of tank is gunna get beat up...float balls kinder but still super tough
A bit of plastic tubing in an siphoning arrangement would also have made the trick. You could read the vaterlevel outside the tank in the tube. Entering the tube over the top and you will have no leakage problem. By lowering the tube end you will also have a valveless water»tap».
good ol chicago electric grinder... one of the 'everyman's tool' in his garage. Probably as popular as a ruger .22
Very Nice Project!
Pradip Raj Adhikary Thanks! Much appreciated:)
Great job, thanks
Great job
What happens when you get strong winds?
i want ask a question
The level indicator on the outside of the tank is a SOLDERING IRON. THAT IS WHY IT IS NADE FROM SOPPER. You had to heat it in a fire to get it hot before using it. Very effective
Hi, nice job. When the counterweight dives into the water, don't you feel some imbalance in the weight and pointer system?
That is neat!!! Thanks!
Thanks Doris!
Joe
Holy smokes!! Love that counterweight design! Great job! Now that you’ve had this for a few years, how’s it holding up?
It's an old soldering iron used on roof flashing, lead and copper solder
genius solution. The center counter weight, you didnt show in detail, but I assume its a can with holes in it and a weight inside...it fills up with water.
Awesome 👍
What's the word he says at 5:16, 'just it takes a little bit of what?'
I think I don't have to use that if I have automatic valve control
Excellent...
Nice Job, How many hours did it take?
The plumb bob thingy is an old soldering iron. It would be heated on forge.
Excellent
What happens to the counter weight when the float passes it going up as the tank fills?? Does the counter weight float or how does it works?
The counterweight is made of a material such that it will sink. However, due to buoyancy it will experience an apparent lose in weight. When it is covered by water the controlling equation is: the sum of the apparent weight of the water in tne bottle and the indicator weight is equal to the apparent weight of the counterweight.
What are the things to consider about the Counter Weight sir? what if I chose not to have an equal length of string from the float to the C.W. and from C.W. to the other end, thanks!!
Joshua Celeste things to consider.......dont destroy a soldering iron for one like this dunce did
Im curious, how has your cistern held up? Im sure its fine, but have you any lessons learned or issues with yours? Im strongly considering building some of these tanks, any advice is appreciated :)
That copper point was used as a hot iron for soldering large wire connections. A new ELECTRIC 100w soldering iron, not a gun, sells today for about $100. Your ANTIQUE was probably worth a little more to a collector. Now it's a plumb bob
very good
Brilliant!
Dan Frank Thanks Dan! Pretty simple and it can work on all sizes of tanks too! Thanks for watching:)
Fine and simple
vishnu m r Thanks Vishnu!
I use simple clear tubing on all 6 of my tanks. Tubing is cheap and I don’t need that big hole and it’s 100% accurate
The one I had was impossible to read between algae and the clear tubing getting discolored.
Very clever
Hello .....we in the process of building this system as you have shown however I need clarity on a few points please advise us on these:- 1) The counterweight, exterior weight and the water level float ....what would be the respective weight differences ie does the counter weight equal that of the exterior weight and that of the float ?
2) Does the counter weight allow any water flow through it ie is it a hollow tube / weight?
3) While your counter weight shows that it has been fastened to either side of it it does come together in the form of a triangle further up ......is line from the weight and float passing through the triangle or is it fixed? I thank you in advance for your interesting video and your help! Kind regards Malcolm.
The sum of counterweight and the soldering iron is equal to the weight of the water in the jug
Hi mate..nice work..will u share the Weight for each weighing. Tq Tq mate
Actually, I just checked and it was used as an old soldering iron:)
I wonder how this culvert setup would work in areas of the country that have freezing winter conditions? Would 1100 gallons freeze solid making the water unusable during these months?
+Adam Bullington Hey Adam, I don't have experience with the freezing conditions that some have... but I'd say, just to be safe, that you'd want to drain this cistern for really cold times of year. In more mild climates you might be able to insulate or even heat the water, just a tad, with a livestock water heater. Anyways, hope that answered your question a bit:)
Joe
Great video.
Home much does the counter weight weigh compared to the other two parts (the jug and the soldering iron)?
The combined weight of the other two. Hence, counterweight.
The sum of counterweight and the soldering iron is equal to the weight of the water in the jug
what the weight of middle one basket? could you please tells us full statistics of it ?
The sum of counterweight and the soldering iron is equal to the weight of the water in the jug
what will be the weight ratio of all materials which are hanged
The sum of counterweight and the soldering iron is equal to the weight of the water in the jug
so, do the little brass weight and the water in the bottle need to be similar in weight? what about the weight of the counterweight?
+Missy Rabbit Hi Missy, it's more about the counterweight being slightly less than the indicator and the water bottle. When the water fills up the water bottle (with water in it) becomes lighter than the counterweight and thats what moves the indicator up up or down with the level of the water.... Hope that helps:)
homesteadonomics thank you
If, from left to right, we name the pulleys P1, P2, P3 and P4 ... we can probably mount the two pulleys P2 and P3 on the same axle shaft.
Suggestion #1: The string/line/cable goes from P1 to P2 in either the clockwise (CW) or counter-clockwise direction (CCW), and to the counterweight and then back to P3 in the OPPOSITE (CCW or CW) direction.
Suggestion #2: Also, the counterweight can be another empty bottle (exactly like the float) whose weight is adjusted by the water inside it - this would be cheaper than the counterweight.
Rest of the design is the same.
very clever :)
Thanks Kirk!
Joe
Which type of string you use
use a cord strong enough to carry the weights, an insulated thin electrical wire works well
hi i have tried something similar with sement in plastic bottles , but my counter weight does not seem to be correct . Water does have some influence on weight and im not sure how to correct it. I saw another video where the counter weight is outside the tank maybe that will solve my problem but i haven tried that yet . any advice ? thanks
Yes, water has a lot of influence on both the counter weight and the float. The counter weight in relation to the float is such that it is not too heavy as to make it sink permanently in the water and also not too light as to not make the suspending cord tight enough.
Amori B, I also constructed such a system with plastic bottles filled with mortar for both the indicator weight and counter weight and a ten litter water bottle for the float. to get the weights right, weigh the indicator weight and the counterweights together, the sum of their weights should equal or slightly less than the volume of water in the bottle. in my case the indicator weight was 0.5kg, counterweight was 1.8kg while the water was 2.2 liters. This arrangement worked perfectly.
Can I buy this online somewhere? Pls let me know as it looks like a really great idea. Rahul
Rahul de Cunha Hey Rahul... I think there is an Australian company that makes something similar but I can't remember off the top of my head what their name is. Anyways, give it a google search and you'll find it:)
Good
i think the weight of the plastic jar is more than central weight
Pretty slick.
Great project but complicated
Genius!! When you add another culvert cistern why not just a clear pipe running along the outside connected with 2 90 degree elbows to run under the bottom of the tank ? Seal off the top with an end cap and a pin hole in the top for air to escape
It´s simpler that way but you need to keep the water in darkness to prevent alga from growing. Probably that clear pipe would turn yellowed cause of UV rays or green cause alga
@@roc3671
Nothing probable about it. It goes black and useless quicker than you can believe.
Learned the hard way...
How to calculate the counterweight?
The sum of counterweight and the soldering iron is equal to the weight of the water in the jug
That's an old soldering iron.
yeah, I found that out about a day after I posted the vid:)
There was actually two in the box and this one was the one in worse shape so thats why I used it... maybe I'll refurb the other one into original condition:) I actually, was almost going to use your pad buffer idea for it but that will have to wait for an axe that I'm going to rehandle/refurbish:)
Think thats an old soldering iron, might be wrong.
That’s smart
You wrecked a good soldering iron ...... hope you enjoyed buffing all the lead off it and breathing it in.......lol.....
Pretty cool. BTW that water indicator thing looks like some witchcraft tool.
*Ingenious!*
Is this the tank recently shown in MEN or BWH?
Yes it is Krispin! BWH last issue... and I also have another article in this months BWH about desert gardening with rainwater! Thanks for watching:)
homesteadonomics I read the article with great interest. How is the zinc for water contamination/taste? Does the concrete base seep? Could it be used long term vs a plastic tank? I think this is a great idea
Krispin, glad you enjoyed the article:) As far as the taste and zinc, etc,...I filter all of my drinking through a Berkey Ceramic water filter so I'm good on that front:) BUT, when I brush my teeth, etc,. I find no bad taste at all with the water. Also, the concrete base on the inside is coated with Ames Blue Max sealant so the concrete and water don't ever have contact and I don't have any seeping at all. I do think this is a long term water storage if taken care of. Obviously, concrete with crack over the years but if you keep it sealed then all should be well for a long, long time. The big thing I'd worry about though is if you were in an environment that got extended freezing temps.. you'd have to drain and cap off the tank during the colder months of winter. Other than that I'm really liking this tank alot! Thanks for watching:)
Joe
You could have also made a clear PVC U-trap style monitoring device that would have only requited one hole in the lid.
That's a good idea... but I was trying to use stuff that I had on hand and I really liked the idea/design of the double pulley system. But I may just have to look into that for one of my other tanks... they'll need indicators soon too! Thanks for watching:)
Its a great, I only worry about the pvc pipe cracking near the u if it gets cold enough.
Alphonse Mephesto I find that clear PVC clouds over after a time.