I'm a big fan of early Silverface amps but that one is late. Full wave solid state bridge rectifier, ultralinear taps for the screens, shoddy lead dress (although not as bad as the Rivera era stuff), and a bunch of other bad decisions. That amp has the potential to be a nice sounding amp but not AB763 nice. JMO.
I have a 1971 Super Reverb and I love it, works perfectly, not all original, but mostly. As I understand, it's the same circuit as the black face, just have a few changes that make it have a higher cleaner output. Would you consider this as a Vintage Amp? Thank you... Love your channel BTW, a lot of learning here... 👍
Thanks! Turns out I have one of these -- a '78 Silverface Pro -- sitting in my rec room. Haven't played it in ages, but 20 years ago it was one loud clean mother. Last time I brought it up (slowly on a variac) it was pretty weak, so I'm thinking prolly cap time. Also decrease the nfb and do something productive with that stock MV.
From where does bias circuit take (AC voltage)and how many AC volts are supposed to be before entering in the rectifier diode? Thanks My Blackface Super reverb (1966) had some tech in the past, it takes power from the main tranformer, the same wirw tha goes into the rectifier tube, so I have 360 AC Volts, then to a (3 Watts)500K resistor in serial with a 470Ohm resisto and then to a diode to give 35/45 DC for the bias. Thank you for your answer.
The Super Reverb power transformer should have its own bias secondary. It sounds like yours might have been replaced with a transformer that lacks that tap so a tech is reducing one side of the HT supply through the 500K resistor. That’s not stock but it can work well. Though 500K seems extreme. A comparable JTM45 would use around 220K. As to how many volts in the raw bias (right after the diode) it’s usually -50 to -60 VDC in a Fender.
“Welcome to the Jungle” playing in my head. 😅 I had a Mid 60’s Super Reverb and felt it was not Loud enough, I sold it and added cash to buy an Ampeg V-4 the 4x12 cabinet that was too loud and difficult to fit in my 72 VW beetle. Anyway, the guy I sold the SR too replaced tubes for about $20 and it made it the best sounding amp that got away fro me 😢
In a world where everyone wants small amps for apartment practice a master volume isn't the worst thing in the world. Makes these monsters still usuable for some people.
Lyle most recently worked on a Matchless Dirt Box on this channel, and has designed and made some very well regarded pedals (Triad and Telos to name 2), but I think he does far more amps now.
If the shunting leaf of the jack is weak, i have found that wedging a screw driver between the base of the shunting leaf and phenolic base and twisting will generally shift the leafs position towards the tip leaf and make the contract stronger. Mind you, you are not bending the leaf but moving its position towards the tip contact of the jack. Since it took 50yrs to get that way, it's doubtful it'll ever shift back at least for another 50yrs 😉. It's just a thought.
Hey! I’m a 79 model. I am NOT old!
You’re not old, Just a vintage.
Oh man, I just spent the last 2 days de-waxing and restoring a Bandmaster 45 watter
Probably had enough wax to make a candle or two.
I'm a big fan of early Silverface amps but that one is late. Full wave solid state bridge rectifier, ultralinear taps for the screens, shoddy lead dress (although not as bad as the Rivera era stuff), and a bunch of other bad decisions. That amp has the potential to be a nice sounding amp but not AB763 nice. JMO.
Smashing pumpkins tone there... nice
I have a 1971 Super Reverb and I love it, works perfectly, not all original, but mostly. As I understand, it's the same circuit as the black face, just have a few changes that make it have a higher cleaner output. Would you consider this as a Vintage Amp? Thank you...
Love your channel BTW, a lot of learning here... 👍
Thanks! Turns out I have one of these -- a '78 Silverface Pro -- sitting in my rec room. Haven't played it in ages, but 20 years ago it was one loud clean mother. Last time I brought it up (slowly on a variac) it was pretty weak, so I'm thinking prolly cap time. Also decrease the nfb and do something productive with that stock MV.
From where does bias circuit take (AC voltage)and how many AC volts are supposed to be before entering in the rectifier diode? Thanks
My Blackface Super reverb (1966) had some tech in the past, it takes power from the main tranformer, the same wirw tha goes into the rectifier tube, so I have 360 AC Volts, then to a (3 Watts)500K resistor in serial with a 470Ohm resisto and then to a diode to give 35/45 DC for the bias.
Thank you for your answer.
The Super Reverb power transformer should have its own bias secondary. It sounds like yours might have been replaced with a transformer that lacks that tap so a tech is reducing one side of the HT supply through the 500K resistor. That’s not stock but it can work well. Though 500K seems extreme. A comparable JTM45 would use around 220K.
As to how many volts in the raw bias (right after the diode) it’s usually -50 to -60 VDC in a Fender.
@@PsionicAudio . Sorry, i made a mistake. Resistore Is 0.1 megaOhm so it's 100.000 Ohm.
Thank You!
“Welcome to the Jungle” playing in my head. 😅 I had a Mid 60’s Super Reverb and felt it was not Loud enough, I sold it and added cash to buy an Ampeg V-4 the 4x12 cabinet that was too loud and difficult to fit in my 72 VW beetle. Anyway, the guy I sold the SR too replaced tubes for about $20 and it made it the best sounding amp that got away fro me 😢
only 1 persons opinion -when the master volumes and butt jointed cabinets came in-they stopped being vintage
In a world where everyone wants small amps for apartment practice a master volume isn't the worst thing in the world. Makes these monsters still usuable for some people.
Boy that amp looks like the front got all tweaked and wonky. It looks wavy and the corners bent .sounds crappy.
Do you do any work on effects pedals?
Lyle most recently worked on a Matchless Dirt Box on this channel, and has designed and made some very well regarded pedals (Triad and Telos to name 2), but I think he does far more amps now.
If the shunting leaf of the jack is weak, i have found that wedging a screw driver between the base of the shunting leaf and phenolic base and twisting will generally shift the leafs position towards the tip leaf and make the contract stronger. Mind you, you are not bending the leaf but moving its position towards the tip contact of the jack. Since it took 50yrs to get that way, it's doubtful it'll ever shift back at least for another 50yrs 😉.
It's just a thought.