This is the kind of advanced technique that’s missing from UA-cam! SFxF is an essential skill for street and documentary photography with rangefinders in particular, a must for using your Leica to its fullest potential. It’s important to hold the camera with the corner nestled in the crook of your thumb (purlicue) to do it consistently. I learned about it from Mike Johnston on his blog, but the technique goes back to the 1930s.
Awwww, I looove this comment! Thank you!! And you are 100% right, this stuff has been going on for years, but some of the youtube generation tends to try and find quick fixes, rather than going out there and putting in the work and figuring shit out yourself and developing your OWN technique, whatever suits you best. And I believe this suited ME best. So, I'm happy with what you said, because my variation might be akin to someone from the 1930's or most likely WORST than those Masters hahaha. BUT, it should get the job done or put you in the ballpark at the very least :)
I would suggest a small variation to this: Because zones are back-weighted, as in more of the space behind the plane of focus is acceptable than in front, if you want to bracket around 15 feet, you should actually aim slightly in front of that to be a little bit more consistent. So I'd move the lens around while planning it out until the zone says that an equal number of feet are acceptable in front vs behind 15, for your standard aperture you use. Which might occur at, say, 13 feet. And then build that into muscle memory as the "15 foot" point. Only works if you prefer one specific aperture, though. Using your actual example in the video, at f/8 when the lens is set to 6 feet, looks like about 4.5 feet to 10 feet are in zone. The average of 4.5 and 10 is 7.25, though, not 6, because of the asymmetry. Whereas if you set it to 5.5 feet, the f/8 zone covers about 4 to 8 feet, and 6 is right in the average middle of that.
It struck me watching this, that the muscle memory technique was so useful that a mechanical aid could be designed to assist with this. So some kind of 'clicks' system which could be set up as required to a certain set of focus lengths.
Wow. After this video I took my rangefinder from the shelf and loaded it with film after a long break. No more fear to miss the shot, The Jae Rose by Feel® method works amazingly. On my Konica 3A the infinity is on other side of the lens circle, so I have to push the patch with the thumb rather than pull it with index finger. This is marginally less accurate movement from muscle memory standpoint but manageable. Thanks again Jae!
Hi Jae, I'm in! The Jae Rose by Feel® method is definitively the way to go, especially if, like me, you wear glasses. The only issue I have is that some cameras, like my Olympus 35 SP, have a focus throw that is very short (shorter than the M6). This makes the challenge a big one. I'm tempted to hack your system by adding a piece of electric tape on the camera body on the left side of the focus handle and punch some little holes in the tape in correspondence with the top 4 positions so that I can feel them with my finger when i move the handle. Still a matter of "feeling" :-)
Niiiice! Genius. Whatever works. I just know, what you may think is difficult will just take some time to get the feel for it. Again, this took me 6 months to master. So I'm sure you'll be alright.
Just had my Leica for 2 1/2 months but as soon as I had the focusing tab in hand, I figured I needed to work on muscle memory. The muscle memory is coming but I still have to figure out the distances in the field. Your framing examples might help a lot. I’ll have to adapt it as I shoot 35 and it’s narrower than 28. Nice explanation anyway and I am happy to give you credit. ;)
No worries!! You'll get there. And I originally learned this on a 35mm focal length. So you'll be just fine. And tips on practice on distance scaling, check out my other video in the description. Also, in one of the comments below, I gave a guy a handful of tips. Enjoy!! Remember to have fun, it's not a race hahaha.
You know what this reminded me a lot to Sniping, when you're the spotter (who finds targets) you have to measure the distance of objects by their sizes on the scope so it makes sense to get used to adjust your focus based on measuring subjects by their sizes on your frame. And then applying feel to it.
That's a very interesting correlation. I have no experience in that area, but I come from a military family haha. So maybe it was a subconscious work ethic to try and master this.
Great tutorial, great idea! I'm going to practice with my favorite manual lens on my digital to practice the feel, then try it with film. I'm a little shy photoing people, especially when I have to take time to focus, etc. This quick method will make it more likely to catch spontaneous moments, maybe sneak some shots. You inspire me, thanks so much!
One tip that might benefit us to better measure the distance. Depending on our focal length of choice, by the time when we reach our camera to our eye and seeing the full body subject (from head to toe are within frame), it could be X ft away from you. If we are only seeing the subject’s upper body, it could be Y ft away from you. The key is to learn how our focal length dictates the proportion of our subject depending on the distance. Make your own mental shortcuts and let the zone focus + Rae Jose method do the rest.
Niiiice. That's a pretty good idea, never thought about it that way. I've just become so aware of distances the past year or so to where it's just almost embedded in my brain a little bit. But yes, whatever mental shortcuts help :)
I enjoyed your video. That's an interesting idea, and I'm sure it works for you with your usual 35mm lens - with its large depths of field, but have you tried your idea in low-light conditions where an aperture setting greater than, say f/4, is required? If your muscle-memory method works - consistently - at an aperture of f/0.95 I'd be amazed. In your study - usually a low-light condition - your estimated focus of 3 ft. appears to be off a bit. 'Nikon' isn't in sharp focus, right?
I've been struggling a lot with a manual 50mm 1.4 that I adapted to my Fuji X-T1 (makes it a 75) and I'm a very "on the moment" kind of shooter so I like to capture those half a second situations but I don't have the budget to afford AF so this Jae Rose by Feel® technique might help a lot.
Niiiiice, please let me know how it goes, again, I'm not a 50mm shooter, BUT you can still apply all the same principles. I would suggest trying to shoot at F16 to help you out, give you some leniancy until you can kill those distances with that spot on muscle memory.
Awesome! Yeah, this video was for people who shoot film OR possibly interested but put off with trying to focus manually. So even if you shoot digital and use a manual focus lens, it's still fun.
Very insightful video. Bought my first Leica today, never used a manual lens before. I get the concept of what you’re teaching and I will master the Jae Rose! Dumb questions time: l notice even though you’re preaching the muscle memory, so why look into the patch? Also, how do I know or make my Leica into Aperature Priorithy mode? I assume that’s what you’re shooting in?
Once you get really comfortable zone focusing and eventually by feel, you won't need to use the focusing patch much outside of when you want to shoot fully opened up for a shallow depth of field or for portraits etc. But most of the time during the day I shoot f5.6 - f16 and don't need the patch much at all. No he's using a Leica m6 which is a fully manual film camera. I'd really recommend shooting in full manual even if you have a digital Leica. If you let the camera make decisions for you, you'll end up not having much say in the end result of your photos and ultimately won't improve much if at all. Mess around with the sunny 16 rule and get comfortable with the exposure triangle. It'll really benefit your photography in the long run. All good questions though
Yeah, man! I hope it helps. It should take maybe a couple months to master then you shouldn't really ever have to worry about it for street shooting ever.
Dear Jay, Does the Mathematical Quadratic Formula apply here? Bwahahah. Seriously though, good advice. Once one nails zone focusing, it opens a lot of new doors. It blows the hell out of even the fastest auto-focus.
Facts. I'm just so proud that I can judge distances these days, just a useful tool. Btw, who said you wouldn't use 9th grade Algebra in real life?? Boom!
Alright can't wait to put this Dirty Rose technique to work! 😂 Ok for real this was a great explanation and really gets my juices juicing. Best thing? I can apply this practice more on my 35 voigtlander and see how close I can get to people in focus. I am still debating on my next lens if I should stick with 35 or go 28. I am actually leaning towards 28 these days because I want to get closer to people and challenge my layering. On Fuji or the GR I get so ridiculously close to people sometimes with 28 but on the M2 I just haven't got there yet. I always look down at the distance scale on the approach. I gotta feeeeeel 🤠
Also I love how you got like 4 dislikes? Like...? Who are these losers that can't take a focusing tips video? 😂 OFFENSIVE MATERIAL YOU SUCK JAE! I HaTe yOu!
Hahaha! My man!! Yeah, I figured this will help you alot! Trust me, 3 months of hard work, you will never have to think about this again. In terms of your next lens, that's all up to you. BUT, I would practice this J. Sanchez technique first and get it down pretty well before switching things up. Because when I switched to the 28mm, I had this technique down for 6 months atleast with my 35mm. One challenge at a time.
damn jae!! no one might believe me for this but i actually adapted this technique just from watching your zone focusing video!!! i didnt realize i was using the jae rose technique the whole time lol 🤯🤯🤯🤯 i even made a pov video using this same exact technique!!
Hahaha, well, honestly, I said in previous videos, IF you're clever enough you may have already figured this out. If I can figure this out, anybody can haha.
@@jaeAre200 thats just awesome man!! thanks so much for helping out!! I actually recently just switched camera systems and got myself a manual lens to do my POV videos, without your videos on focusing.. I probably wouldn't have had any photos in focus!! I'll be sure to credit "Jae Rose Technique" next time in my future videos!! 😅👌
I was Jae Rosing before Jae Rose even talked about it 😂 Haha good video man! I do the start from the middle (1.5m for me) as my "neutral", but I'm not as accurate as you; still fall back on the zone a fair bit.
Niiiice, yeah, people who have been doing film or film on the street for quite sometime most likely have a variation of some sort. My true test of my skills will be a roll I shot at 75 ISO where I had to shoot the majority of it all wide open.
Niiiice. Obviously, it's more complicated on the streets having to react to the scene, judge the distance, and find it on your lens. But maybe you're just smarter than me haha.
Have you seen my previous video on this subject with "distancing scaling??" I would check that video out. Other than whats in the video, I would suggest good ol' fashion work ethic. start with judging 1 distance for a week straight. Start with judging 15ft for a week straight until its in your mind and muscle memory. Then do 10ft for a weeks straight or as long as it takes. Then 6 and 3. Again, sometimes there's no cheat code, just going out there and trying it over and over and over. Hope this helps.
@@jaeAre200 I will practice that. thanks dude for the advice. Super cool that you actually took the time to give a quality answer. Love your videos, love your whole atitude! you are nice, cool and positive! (sorry, not gonna say sexy).
Im wondering though if there could be a variation to this technique, like for example it takes a lot more to go from infinity to 3 feet, maybe if you are a close up shooter the other way around would be better (start at the closest focus point)
Yeah, again, this was a blue print for ME, people could use it however they want to craft it to their needs. But I feel the positioning on your index finger at close distance would feel awkward, but who knows. Whatevers clever.
So I've been practising the J-Rose method, also realised the thing about street photography, it's never about pinpoint tack sharp focus (unless you're lucky with the feel). Can I please ask your opinion why do people chase for the sharpest Summicron lens when street is never always about achieving that? Also can I please ask, do you still ever look at the focussing parallax anymore before you take the shot? (I suppose you don't do this because you've Ninja'd the first part video).
So one of the main reasons why i switched from zone-focusing to focus by feel (I never mentioned this in my videos) is becasue theres a HUGE difference between "in focus" and "tack sharp focus." Zone-focusing will get you in the ballpark of focus, but to get the subject that YOU WANT at it's sharpest, it needs to be focused exact (ie focus by feel). And why I moved to Leica glass more so compared to my Voigtlander, is because the quality of the glass is much more generous when it comes to sharpness of your "zone." So if I miss my "focus by feel" by a decent margin, it will still be wayyyy sharper than cheaper glass. My opinion, Summicron Glass is like an M6, there's a mystique to it, obviously performs well above the capabilities, and honestly, that extra stop is pretty useful at times, like streetphotography in the metro/subway which I like to do alot. But if you're using it for depth of field purposes for street--not that useful--I don't shoot below F5.6 most of the time. As for parallax, all that is worked out through intuition, the shots I like to take are already predetermined in a split second before the camera is even to my eye--yess, ninja style :) I hope this helps.
Technically speaking, it should work for ANY manual lens. Now, the matter of difficulty is another question--depending on focus throw. And if you plan on shooting at F1.8, still possible, but your precision, accuracy and muscle memory better be that of the most elite Archer in the world hahaha.
This is the kind of advanced technique that’s missing from UA-cam! SFxF is an essential skill for street and documentary photography with rangefinders in particular, a must for using your Leica to its fullest potential. It’s important to hold the camera with the corner nestled in the crook of your thumb (purlicue) to do it consistently. I learned about it from Mike Johnston on his blog, but the technique goes back to the 1930s.
Awwww, I looove this comment! Thank you!! And you are 100% right, this stuff has been going on for years, but some of the youtube generation tends to try and find quick fixes, rather than going out there and putting in the work and figuring shit out yourself and developing your OWN technique, whatever suits you best. And I believe this suited ME best. So, I'm happy with what you said, because my variation might be akin to someone from the 1930's or most likely WORST than those Masters hahaha. BUT, it should get the job done or put you in the ballpark at the very least :)
I would suggest a small variation to this: Because zones are back-weighted, as in more of the space behind the plane of focus is acceptable than in front, if you want to bracket around 15 feet, you should actually aim slightly in front of that to be a little bit more consistent. So I'd move the lens around while planning it out until the zone says that an equal number of feet are acceptable in front vs behind 15, for your standard aperture you use. Which might occur at, say, 13 feet. And then build that into muscle memory as the "15 foot" point. Only works if you prefer one specific aperture, though. Using your actual example in the video, at f/8 when the lens is set to 6 feet, looks like about 4.5 feet to 10 feet are in zone. The average of 4.5 and 10 is 7.25, though, not 6, because of the asymmetry. Whereas if you set it to 5.5 feet, the f/8 zone covers about 4 to 8 feet, and 6 is right in the average middle of that.
This Rae Jose method is gold.
HAHA! I like that even better! I should of thought of that first...the Rae Jose technique...that guy gets all the ladies and glory :(
It struck me watching this, that the muscle memory technique was so useful that a mechanical aid could be designed to assist with this. So some kind of 'clicks' system which could be set up as required to a certain set of focus lengths.
Wow. After this video I took my rangefinder from the shelf and loaded it with film after a long break. No more fear to miss the shot, The Jae Rose by Feel® method works amazingly. On my Konica 3A the infinity is on other side of the lens circle, so I have to push the patch with the thumb rather than pull it with index finger. This is marginally less accurate movement from muscle memory standpoint but manageable. Thanks again Jae!
Hi Jae, I'm in! The Jae Rose by Feel® method is definitively the way to go, especially if, like me, you wear glasses. The only issue I have is that some cameras, like my Olympus 35 SP, have a focus throw that is very short (shorter than the M6). This makes the challenge a big one. I'm tempted to hack your system by adding a piece of electric tape on the camera body on the left side of the focus handle and punch some little holes in the tape in correspondence with the top 4 positions so that I can feel them with my finger when i move the handle. Still a matter of "feeling" :-)
Niiiice! Genius. Whatever works. I just know, what you may think is difficult will just take some time to get the feel for it. Again, this took me 6 months to master. So I'm sure you'll be alright.
This is easily the best focusing tutorial here on UA-cam. :) Thanks man! Greetings from the Philippines.
Just had my Leica for 2 1/2 months but as soon as I had the focusing tab in hand, I figured I needed to work on muscle memory. The muscle memory is coming but I still have to figure out the distances in the field. Your framing examples might help a lot. I’ll have to adapt it as I shoot 35 and it’s narrower than 28. Nice explanation anyway and I am happy to give you credit. ;)
No worries!! You'll get there. And I originally learned this on a 35mm focal length. So you'll be just fine. And tips on practice on distance scaling, check out my other video in the description. Also, in one of the comments below, I gave a guy a handful of tips. Enjoy!! Remember to have fun, it's not a race hahaha.
Man you’re a beast. You’re zone focusing video was clutch. This one as well.
Appreciate that!! Unfortunately, I have no more secrets to add hahaha. This is all I got.
Thank You for sharing!
Very nice explanation! Firm handshake🔥🤝
Appreciate you brotha!!! Firm smile.
thanks for making this
AWESOME!!!
You know what this reminded me a lot to Sniping, when you're the spotter (who finds targets) you have to measure the distance of objects by their sizes on the scope so it makes sense to get used to adjust your focus based on measuring subjects by their sizes on your frame. And then applying feel to it.
That's a very interesting correlation. I have no experience in that area, but I come from a military family haha. So maybe it was a subconscious work ethic to try and master this.
Great tutorial, great idea! I'm going to practice with my favorite manual lens on my digital to practice the feel, then try it with film. I'm a little shy photoing people, especially when I have to take time to focus, etc. This quick method will make it more likely to catch spontaneous moments, maybe sneak some shots. You inspire me, thanks so much!
Perfectly explained Jae, thanks for sharing, now the only thing left is the focusing with one hand technique
that technique be worth the "Dirty Jae" name
One thing at a time, one thing at a time my young skywalker haha.
@@jaeAre200 😁😆
20:46 That's what we call rainbow shooting challenge here in the Philippines. Although sometimes we don't go back because it's a betting game. hehe
I love that
One tip that might benefit us to better measure the distance.
Depending on our focal length of choice, by the time when we reach our camera to our eye and seeing the full body subject (from head to toe are within frame), it could be X ft away from you. If we are only seeing the subject’s upper body, it could be Y ft away from you.
The key is to learn how our focal length dictates the proportion of our subject depending on the distance.
Make your own mental shortcuts and let the zone focus + Rae Jose method do the rest.
Niiiice. That's a pretty good idea, never thought about it that way. I've just become so aware of distances the past year or so to where it's just almost embedded in my brain a little bit. But yes, whatever mental shortcuts help :)
Love the Thai art work in the back
I enjoyed your video. That's an interesting idea, and I'm sure it works for you with your usual 35mm lens - with its large depths of field, but have you tried your idea in low-light conditions where an aperture setting greater than, say f/4, is required? If your muscle-memory method works - consistently - at an aperture of f/0.95 I'd be amazed. In your study - usually a low-light condition - your estimated focus of 3 ft. appears to be off a bit. 'Nikon' isn't in sharp focus, right?
Great drill! Thank you for sharing your practical technique, hands-on.
No worries! Hope it helps or at the very least help you form your own slightly varied technique.
you should add "jae rose technique" to the video title for SEO ;)
I've been struggling a lot with a manual 50mm 1.4 that I adapted to my Fuji X-T1 (makes it a 75) and I'm a very "on the moment" kind of shooter so I like to capture those half a second situations but I don't have the budget to afford AF so this Jae Rose by Feel® technique might help a lot.
Niiiiice, please let me know how it goes, again, I'm not a 50mm shooter, BUT you can still apply all the same principles. I would suggest trying to shoot at F16 to help you out, give you some leniancy until you can kill those distances with that spot on muscle memory.
@@jaeAre200 gonna get that 1.4 sniping technique with the jae-rose's®
Great content and advice! Need to get exercising. Thank you for sharing!!! Amazing.
Awesome!!! Yeah, it's gonna take some practice, obviously doable. Good luck and have fun.
Never owned a manual focus lens, but you made me wanna shoot in manual focus with the Jae Rose method!
Awesome! Yeah, this video was for people who shoot film OR possibly interested but put off with trying to focus manually. So even if you shoot digital and use a manual focus lens, it's still fun.
Very insightful video. Bought my first Leica today, never used a manual lens before. I get the concept of what you’re teaching and I will master the Jae Rose! Dumb questions time: l notice even though you’re preaching the muscle memory, so why look into the patch? Also, how do I know or make my Leica into Aperature Priorithy mode? I assume that’s what you’re shooting in?
I wrote the patch question before you video was over :)
Once you get really comfortable zone focusing and eventually by feel, you won't need to use the focusing patch much outside of when you want to shoot fully opened up for a shallow depth of field or for portraits etc. But most of the time during the day I shoot f5.6 - f16 and don't need the patch much at all. No he's using a Leica m6 which is a fully manual film camera. I'd really recommend shooting in full manual even if you have a digital Leica. If you let the camera make decisions for you, you'll end up not having much say in the end result of your photos and ultimately won't improve much if at all. Mess around with the sunny 16 rule and get comfortable with the exposure triangle. It'll really benefit your photography in the long run. All good questions though
This "Jae Rose" such a bomb! imma use this more from now
Yeah, man! I hope it helps. It should take maybe a couple months to master then you shouldn't really ever have to worry about it for street shooting ever.
@@jaeAre200 thanks, man! Been doing manual focusing for 3 years now.. used zone focusing a lot.. but I never really thought about this..
Dear Jay, Does the Mathematical Quadratic Formula apply here? Bwahahah. Seriously though, good advice. Once one nails zone focusing, it opens a lot of new doors. It blows the hell out of even the fastest auto-focus.
Facts. I'm just so proud that I can judge distances these days, just a useful tool. Btw, who said you wouldn't use 9th grade Algebra in real life?? Boom!
Tip-top
Alright can't wait to put this Dirty Rose technique to work! 😂 Ok for real this was a great explanation and really gets my juices juicing. Best thing? I can apply this practice more on my 35 voigtlander and see how close I can get to people in focus. I am still debating on my next lens if I should stick with 35 or go 28. I am actually leaning towards 28 these days because I want to get closer to people and challenge my layering. On Fuji or the GR I get so ridiculously close to people sometimes with 28 but on the M2 I just haven't got there yet. I always look down at the distance scale on the approach. I gotta feeeeeel 🤠
Also I love how you got like 4 dislikes? Like...? Who are these losers that can't take a focusing tips video? 😂 OFFENSIVE MATERIAL YOU SUCK JAE! I HaTe yOu!
Hahaha! My man!! Yeah, I figured this will help you alot! Trust me, 3 months of hard work, you will never have to think about this again. In terms of your next lens, that's all up to you. BUT, I would practice this J. Sanchez technique first and get it down pretty well before switching things up. Because when I switched to the 28mm, I had this technique down for 6 months atleast with my 35mm. One challenge at a time.
damn jae!! no one might believe me for this but i actually adapted this technique just from watching your zone focusing video!!! i didnt realize i was using the jae rose technique the whole time lol 🤯🤯🤯🤯 i even made a pov video using this same exact technique!!
Hahaha, well, honestly, I said in previous videos, IF you're clever enough you may have already figured this out. If I can figure this out, anybody can haha.
@@jaeAre200 thats just awesome man!! thanks so much for helping out!! I actually recently just switched camera systems and got myself a manual lens to do my POV videos, without your videos on focusing.. I probably wouldn't have had any photos in focus!! I'll be sure to credit "Jae Rose Technique" next time in my future videos!! 😅👌
@@southsonata Dope dope!! I just subbed!!!
@@jaeAre200 Appreciate it man!! 🙏🙏
I was Jae Rosing before Jae Rose even talked about it 😂 Haha good video man! I do the start from the middle (1.5m for me) as my "neutral", but I'm not as accurate as you; still fall back on the zone a fair bit.
Niiiice, yeah, people who have been doing film or film on the street for quite sometime most likely have a variation of some sort. My true test of my skills will be a roll I shot at 75 ISO where I had to shoot the majority of it all wide open.
I already started practicing and idk if its my lens which im used to but I almost nail it every time
Niiiice. Obviously, it's more complicated on the streets having to react to the scene, judge the distance, and find it on your lens. But maybe you're just smarter than me haha.
I'm one with the force the force is with me
Hahaha, I love that line, best one in the movie!
The Jae Rose it is... thanks for the pro tip.
Hahaha! Thanks, that put a smile on my face ;)
lol, I used the...De Sanchez technique ;) lol love it.
Hahaha...there's just too many good techniques out there to use haha.
About to put this ”Jae Rose” to work. 🤙🏼
Ayyyyyye!! Go get 'em. "Go shoot Mother..." haha
This video is very helpful. I have problems calculating distance. Any tips for nailing the right distance from the camera to the subject?
Have you seen my previous video on this subject with "distancing scaling??" I would check that video out. Other than whats in the video, I would suggest good ol' fashion work ethic. start with judging 1 distance for a week straight. Start with judging 15ft for a week straight until its in your mind and muscle memory. Then do 10ft for a weeks straight or as long as it takes. Then 6 and 3. Again, sometimes there's no cheat code, just going out there and trying it over and over and over. Hope this helps.
@@jaeAre200 I will practice that. thanks dude for the advice. Super cool that you actually took the time to give a quality answer. Love your videos, love your whole atitude! you are nice, cool and positive! (sorry, not gonna say sexy).
btw, I already suggested to my facebook photo group to check the Jae Rose Focus Technique.
Well Done! Very Helpful! Thx!
Glad it helped! Appreciate the watch and taking the time out to comment.
@@jaeAre200 I have learned a lot from the channel, will stay tuned, and definitely use the "Jae Rose" technique!
Love your videos man!
Much much appreciated!! Appreciate the watch and taking the time out to comment.
@@jaeAre200 Your vid on zone focusing was the only one I understood haha!
@@AetherCS2 Well...us dum dums think alike hahaha.
The Dirty Jae Rose technique 👍 DJR
Yessssir! Only apply this on the photography field please haha.
jae rose 😂
Im wondering though if there could be a variation to this technique, like for example it takes a lot more to go from infinity to 3 feet, maybe if you are a close up shooter the other way around would be better (start at the closest focus point)
Yeah, again, this was a blue print for ME, people could use it however they want to craft it to their needs. But I feel the positioning on your index finger at close distance would feel awkward, but who knows. Whatevers clever.
So I've been practising the J-Rose method, also realised the thing about street photography, it's never about pinpoint tack sharp focus (unless you're lucky with the feel).
Can I please ask your opinion why do people chase for the sharpest Summicron lens when street is never always about achieving that?
Also can I please ask, do you still ever look at the focussing parallax anymore before you take the shot? (I suppose you don't do this because you've Ninja'd the first part video).
So one of the main reasons why i switched from zone-focusing to focus by feel (I never mentioned this in my videos) is becasue theres a HUGE difference between "in focus" and "tack sharp focus." Zone-focusing will get you in the ballpark of focus, but to get the subject that YOU WANT at it's sharpest, it needs to be focused exact (ie focus by feel). And why I moved to Leica glass more so compared to my Voigtlander, is because the quality of the glass is much more generous when it comes to sharpness of your "zone." So if I miss my "focus by feel" by a decent margin, it will still be wayyyy sharper than cheaper glass. My opinion, Summicron Glass is like an M6, there's a mystique to it, obviously performs well above the capabilities, and honestly, that extra stop is pretty useful at times, like streetphotography in the metro/subway which I like to do alot. But if you're using it for depth of field purposes for street--not that useful--I don't shoot below F5.6 most of the time. As for parallax, all that is worked out through intuition, the shots I like to take are already predetermined in a split second before the camera is even to my eye--yess, ninja style :) I hope this helps.
@@jaeAre200 best explanation ever!
Is this method working for 50mm 1.8 lense?
Technically speaking, it should work for ANY manual lens. Now, the matter of difficulty is another question--depending on focus throw. And if you plan on shooting at F1.8, still possible, but your precision, accuracy and muscle memory better be that of the most elite Archer in the world hahaha.
show
lol feet...