im happy that your content quality is rising regardless of the topic youre tackling - you look so much more confident than before, that is great, it is a pleasure to watch you talk right now
Hi Tom, we also use a special scanning spray, it is a chalk that dries off really fast. It leaves a perfect matte white surface that is perfect for scanning. after you´re done, you can just rinse it away with water.
I've used an Einscan for over 2 years now and LOVE it. In the US, we have a chalk penetrating spray call D-70 that we use instead. It can fade vinyl and certain lacquers, watch out!
Pretty cool scan spray. I usually use dry shampoo from the dollar store. It works really well but it comes off very easily. A simple touch will leave a mark on the object.
There are honestly good apps for both the iphone/andoid that work perfectly well. There are also good free software for PC as well although most of the good ones need a CUDA capable GPU. To be honest these scanners are not worth the money.
Actually result of your work is nice. It's organic, like embryo (11:40). One of our "national treasure" artist praised by critics make literary things like: 1) Buy ikea clock. 2) put ikea clock on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now. (this was installed later even on exhibition on our university, celebrities and few reporters came for opening show of this) 1) Buy string. 2) put string on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now. 1) Buy ikea suction cup with hanger. 2) put suction cup with hanger on wall in gallery 3) It's art now. 1) Buy pair of shoes. 2) put pair of shoes on ground in gallery 3) It's art now. 1) Take drill 2) Make hole thru plasterboard wall in gallery. 2) It's art now. His advanced creations: 1) Buy buy box of cheese, box of crayons, box of 35mm film, box of matches. 2) put one on other on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now. 1) Buy buy croissant and two pins. 2) put pins in croissant and put it on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now. 1) Buy box of matches. 2) burn matches 3) put burned matches on pedestal in gallery 4) It's art now. Calling things like this Art is disgusting disgrace of art.
3:21 This is one downside to the EinScan and structures lift scanning in general. It doesn't pick up black very well. Especially shiny black. Kind of ironic with the company being called Shining 3D.
Film-makers have used 'anti-glare' sprays for eons! All the shiny stuff that lives in our world looks terrible on the big screen; reflections of lights and nearby objects distract the viewer, makes continuity difficult! Some sprays just cut the glare, others impart a subtle surface, much like the 'no clean' product you demonstrated. Personally, when I have a shiny thing to scan, I just dust it with some baking soda...wipes off easy, clings really well to glossy plastic!
Great stuff, it's this sort of fun experimentation that continues to make 3D printing interesting, also the knowledge you gained could help you in future projects.
@Thomas: Quick note on Polycarbonate on the roof: it's not UV resistant. You should use ASA, even this will "only" last for a few (2-3) years. PC and ABS will get brittle really quick.
I've been experimenting with Prusament PC blend and heating a chamber to control warping. If I set the chamber to 80°C (PINDA and bed reported 90°), I still get some warping. Enough warping that had trouble making a functional idler for the MMU2S. With the chamber programmed for 85°, I got a stepper diver overtemp error, so I can't explore higher yet. A part as large as that tile pass-through looks like a challenge. These experiments have been performed using my i3MK3S with MMU2S, rebuilt in TitanX ABS. Even so, some of the ABS parts in the MMU2S failed due to the elevated temperatures in the chamber and I removed the MMU2S to continue. At this point, the whole printer has been rebuilt in Prusament PC blend, and the stepper drivers' thermal limit has prevented me from exploring higher chamber temperatures. I've been risking my PEI sheet by printing without PC glue stick, in order to get maximum bed adhesion. I was finally able to make good parts for the MMU, I think, but I haven't had time to assemble it. I started down this road of heating a chamber so I could print ABS. So much of what I want to print needs to be able to survive in a car or on a motorcycle. So when I fell in love with PC blend, I sort of stopped caring about ABS. My first experiment with a properly heated chamber was set at 55°C, and I was exited to see the idler print was perfectly flat and warp-free. Then I realized I had accidentally printed it in TitanX instead of PC. For years I was wanting to print a warp-free ABS part, and the first time I achieved it was pure disappointment.
So which 3D scanning process is better, one using a laser to scan or one using a camera to take a lot of photos like the KS-3D scanner does? Also, wouldn't your scanner work better if you moved the head closer to the object?
Found that you can use the Dupli-Color CustomWrap Removable Coating (Matte Arctic White) and then scan the part. After the paint can be pealed off. The scans come out great.
Huh. I had exactly the same problem at the beginning of the pandemic. I was asked to design an adapter from a gas mask to a cheaper filter brand for the local medical response team. At 1st I wanted to use photogrammetry to just scan a very shiny, black thread instead of modelling it. Covered the part in flour and all, but it still didn't work too well. Fortunately - I still ended up using my scan. It helped me to properly adjust the scale of a procedurally generated thread to exactly match the blobby-course thread I scanned.
Looks like Shining 3D have really worked on polishing their software, it looks substantially improved from the first version you showed in your earlier videos. The only issue with this video is that it doesn't have your signature move of knocking over a prop on the desk during your to camera takes :-)
does anyone know how to print individual layers separately on the printers? i want to create a piece of art to print, but i want to be able to print the layer individually or a few layers together to get the same effect that has been done with Body Works. like how some bodies are thinly sliced and the spread out so you can see the individual layers.
Open it in Meshlab (free). Prusa did a really good video guide on this! First search result in UA-cam for "cut prusa". Visor thumbnail is a hulk model.
Or really easy would be to use 3d Builder by Microsoft. It is as basic as it can get. In there you can import your model, which you want to split up and use the tool split to split the body into 2 parts. You can repeat this process in 0.2 mm increments, so you get your "slices"
The last time I got a blob on my hot end after a failed print, the wires to the heating element broke and I had to replace it. :( But I found a replacement on Amazon, and fixed it no problem. That's half the fun of 3D printing as far as I'm concerned. Well, maybe not half, but you get the idea.
I routinely print smaller polycarbonate parts on my MK3S using good old glue stick. Tom's PC blob stars in a video. My PC blobs take out either the thermistor or heater wires. I guess that's the difference between a UA-cam artist and a regular guy. Sigh.
Judging by what the "Art" community pushes as "Art" this certainly qualifies. Whether you want to be considered part of the "Art" community is another question.
🤔 im very sceptical about 3d printing something as crucial as this. you wont know when it fails (and it will). only when its too late. and the damage caused by a hole in the roof...
And overpaying another company to provide you the same part sounds okay? Who says theyr part will not fail after 5 years? And there is still the problem that you can not buy a fitting roof tile if you're unlucky. There are thousands of different roof tile designs all over the world, and if you get one that does not quite fit, chances of the roof leaking are there from day 1 after installation...
@@NiHaoMike64 that wouldnt work on my house for several reasons. i assume other houses would have the same issues and therefore its not common. also the regular method is not a big deal if its done right.
It would of been good if you did the low polygon re-typology in ZBrush.... awesome software that perpetually upgrades for free. Love pixologic... best software company period!!!!!!! 🇦🇺😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🤓
Hello tom. Paul from 3dream labs in the UK. I have emailed you twice about testing our resin. Any chance of a reply fairly soon please? A good idea for 3d printing. There are many fields printing is useful.
Honestly rather than use that stupidly overpriced spray you can use a water soluble paint in an airbrush and just wash it in water when your done, Literally a good airbrush + compressor and paint would cost less than that crap. Honestly if your printing a lot of things you probably want the airbrush to paint them with anyways. Honestly the same with the scanner, that thing is literally a rip off. You can easily do this just fine with any phone/decent camera. Honestly you will often get better detail from a good phone scanner to be honest if you have a good phone. Honestly if you have a CUDA capable GPU one good one is meshroom or if you don't Regard3d is another. The only difference with them is you might need to fix a few things up in blender yourself.
@@MadeWithLayers You do realize that the Einscan literally just does the exact same thing right. All it does it take images on a timer while it is rotating and use photogammetry to create a 3d model. The only difference is the other way you have to manually take the pictures yourself but that has the advantage of the fact that you can take more photos of the areas you need more detailed.
@@MaethorDerien That's not right, the EinScan SE is using structured light and not only photogrammetry. There are many articels about the difference, you will never get such an result with photogrammetry. I assume you never saw the difference between a 3d Model from a Camera or a real 3D Scanner :=)
Fun fact: I'm actually legally considered a artist
True madlad con artist 😂😂😂 ❤️
Isn't it "an artist" or am I missing something?
Jeej very cool Thomas. Reproducing a blob...
@@jeremiahbriggs5966 check the Sidebar/wiki on the 3D printing Reddit
KSK-Mitglied? 😄
Stock up on hair highlight spray around Halloween, you want it for your scans and photogrammetry. Wash it off with warm soapy water.
im happy that your content quality is rising regardless of the topic youre tackling - you look so much more confident than before, that is great, it is a pleasure to watch you talk right now
Hi Tom, we also use a special scanning spray, it is a chalk that dries off really fast. It leaves a perfect matte white surface that is perfect for scanning. after you´re done, you can just rinse it away with water.
Yo Resin print the whole thing in a red resin!
I've used an Einscan for over 2 years now and LOVE it. In the US, we have a chalk penetrating spray call D-70 that we use instead. It can fade vinyl and certain lacquers, watch out!
Pretty cool scan spray. I usually use dry shampoo from the dollar store. It works really well but it comes off very easily. A simple touch will leave a mark on the object.
Love to hear more about the Prusament PC blend
Hey Thomas, funny I was just looking for 3D scanning techniques, was wondering if the iPad lidar would work well. Thanks for sharing Thomas, love it.
There are honestly good apps for both the iphone/andoid that work perfectly well. There are also good free software for PC as well although most of the good ones need a CUDA capable GPU. To be honest these scanners are not worth the money.
The iPad's scanning hardware is more suitable for larger items - but from what I've seen, the results are really impressive!
I know this is a year later, but Polycam is a great app that utilizes the LiDAR sensor
@@EyeMCreative Thanks, will check it out
Thomas, now you need to award a price with this new trophy. Prusa award 2020.
Actually result of your work is nice. It's organic, like embryo (11:40).
One of our "national treasure" artist praised by critics make literary things like:
1) Buy ikea clock. 2) put ikea clock on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now. (this was installed later even on exhibition on our university, celebrities and few reporters came for opening show of this)
1) Buy string. 2) put string on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now.
1) Buy ikea suction cup with hanger. 2) put suction cup with hanger on wall in gallery 3) It's art now.
1) Buy pair of shoes. 2) put pair of shoes on ground in gallery 3) It's art now.
1) Take drill 2) Make hole thru
plasterboard wall in gallery. 2) It's art now.
His advanced creations:
1) Buy buy box of cheese, box of crayons, box of 35mm film, box of matches. 2) put one on other on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now.
1) Buy buy
croissant and two pins. 2) put pins in croissant and put it on pedestal in gallery 3) It's art now.
1) Buy box of matches. 2) burn matches 3) put burned matches on pedestal in gallery 4) It's art now.
Calling things like this Art is disgusting disgrace of art.
Don't forget throwing 2 dozen eggs at a wall and calling it "art".
I wonder if you are talking for the same artist who made the "Banana duct-taped to a wall" art installation.
No. Different "artist" but same type.
I have to admit that I actually like your statute. There's something cool about it, it looks like a mysterious nugget or crystal!
1:20 I've had a couple of those blobs recently.
1:55 it looks like a piece of poop
It's amazing how clear your English is. I watched the whole video without realizing that it was in English and not in Spanish
I didn't even know I was that fluent in Spanish 😉
Joaquin Picci Ummmm, he’s German....
3:21 This is one downside to the EinScan and structures lift scanning in general. It doesn't pick up black very well. Especially shiny black. Kind of ironic with the company being called Shining 3D.
STL? hahahah. That turned out great, and it makes me want to get my scanner out and scan that blob I have on my Taz6.
Ah, I forgot to link them in the video description. Here you go! www.prusaprinters.org/prints/38468-blob
The original part had almost „Giger“-like structures,
I liked that :)
I wanted to see the solar wiring entry gland.
It's there. 12:15 or so
Film-makers have used 'anti-glare' sprays for eons!
All the shiny stuff that lives in our world looks terrible on the big screen; reflections of lights and nearby objects distract the viewer, makes continuity difficult!
Some sprays just cut the glare, others impart a subtle surface, much like the 'no clean' product you demonstrated.
Personally, when I have a shiny thing to scan, I just dust it with some baking soda...wipes off easy, clings really well to glossy plastic!
What software are you using for the crystalyne look on your part?
at 4:40 did you stabalise thee footage because it is nausiating
Hi have you tried to 3d scan using different scanner and compare the accuracy of each other?
Great stuff, it's this sort of fun experimentation that continues to make 3D printing interesting, also the knowledge you gained could help you in future projects.
@Thomas: Quick note on Polycarbonate on the roof: it's not UV resistant. You should use ASA, even this will "only" last for a few (2-3) years. PC and ABS will get brittle really quick.
Thanks for mentioning us!
I've been experimenting with Prusament PC blend and heating a chamber to control warping. If I set the chamber to 80°C (PINDA and bed reported 90°), I still get some warping. Enough warping that had trouble making a functional idler for the MMU2S. With the chamber programmed for 85°, I got a stepper diver overtemp error, so I can't explore higher yet. A part as large as that tile pass-through looks like a challenge.
These experiments have been performed using my i3MK3S with MMU2S, rebuilt in TitanX ABS. Even so, some of the ABS parts in the MMU2S failed due to the elevated temperatures in the chamber and I removed the MMU2S to continue. At this point, the whole printer has been rebuilt in Prusament PC blend, and the stepper drivers' thermal limit has prevented me from exploring higher chamber temperatures. I've been risking my PEI sheet by printing without PC glue stick, in order to get maximum bed adhesion. I was finally able to make good parts for the MMU, I think, but I haven't had time to assemble it.
I started down this road of heating a chamber so I could print ABS. So much of what I want to print needs to be able to survive in a car or on a motorcycle. So when I fell in love with PC blend, I sort of stopped caring about ABS. My first experiment with a properly heated chamber was set at 55°C, and I was exited to see the idler print was perfectly flat and warp-free. Then I realized I had accidentally printed it in TitanX instead of PC. For years I was wanting to print a warp-free ABS part, and the first time I achieved it was pure disappointment.
So which 3D scanning process is better, one using a laser to scan or one using a camera to take a lot of photos like the KS-3D scanner does? Also, wouldn't your scanner work better if you moved the head closer to the object?
Found that you can use the Dupli-Color CustomWrap Removable Coating
(Matte Arctic White) and then scan the part. After the paint can be pealed off. The scans come out great.
Huh. I had exactly the same problem at the beginning of the pandemic. I was asked to design an adapter from a gas mask to a cheaper filter brand for the local medical response team. At 1st I wanted to use photogrammetry to just scan a very shiny, black thread instead of modelling it. Covered the part in flour and all, but it still didn't work too well. Fortunately - I still ended up using my scan. It helped me to properly adjust the scale of a procedurally generated thread to exactly match the blobby-course thread I scanned.
Looks like Shining 3D have really worked on polishing their software, it looks substantially improved from the first version you showed in your earlier videos. The only issue with this video is that it doesn't have your signature move of knocking over a prop on the desk during your to camera takes :-)
Sooo, that large of a part with open printer is a no go for Prusament PC Blend?
Correct. I'm honestly surprised it got as far as it did, other polycarbonates would have warped much more violently.
I’m Interested to see if dusting with flour or chalk works as well.
Can we get a video on the functional part too once you get it working please?
does anyone know how to print individual layers separately on the printers? i want to create a piece of art to print, but i want to be able to print the layer individually or a few layers together to get the same effect that has been done with Body Works. like how some bodies are thinly sliced and the spread out so you can see the individual layers.
Open it in Meshlab (free). Prusa did a really good video guide on this! First search result in UA-cam for "cut prusa". Visor thumbnail is a hulk model.
Or really easy would be to use 3d Builder by Microsoft. It is as basic as it can get.
In there you can import your model, which you want to split up and use the tool split to split the body into 2 parts. You can repeat this process in 0.2 mm increments, so you get your "slices"
thanks for the info
Really need to get a 3D scanner
If in doubt, always do the fun stuff :D
Great random video Tom. I also learnt something else ... UA-cam notifications ain't working. Thankfully I saw your Twitter post.
i worked at an injection molding plant. every barrel purge made one of those, except it was 20 kilos and 1000x bigger
You could definitely get a lot of art off of failed prints "electric chaos"
Now this is modern "printer" art!
The last time I got a blob on my hot end after a failed print, the wires to the heating element broke and I had to replace it. :( But I found a replacement on Amazon, and fixed it no problem. That's half the fun of 3D printing as far as I'm concerned. Well, maybe not half, but you get the idea.
I feel like this is the epitome of "it´s not a bug, it´s a feature"
Art world example:
Roxy Paine - Scumak No. 2
I think it went well. It is all very organic. The original is quite good for a the result of a failed print.
You should print a mount for it in wood PLA stain it and put a plaque on it.
nice video
I would have taken an interesting segment of the blob, enlarged that 300%, and printed it and painted in a nice metallic paint :)
It's art just as much blinkers are separately bought accessories for BMWs
I'd print a mould in an easier to print material and cast the part for the roof tile in a concrete :)
There is a hdr option which should help getting the perfect result
I think a clear green or red in an LCD printer...
Just bought some green goo on Amazon. Arrives Sunday. I'll put it up on Instagram and tag you when done.
I routinely print smaller polycarbonate parts on my MK3S using good old glue stick. Tom's PC blob stars in a video. My PC blobs take out either the thermistor or heater wires. I guess that's the difference between a UA-cam artist and a regular guy. Sigh.
Judging by what the "Art" community pushes as "Art" this certainly qualifies.
Whether you want to be considered part of the "Art" community is another question.
Kinda missed the hype train by not trying to apply some embossed text in fusion 360... 😜
That might get you a one man show in NYC. But you're already a one man show.
This seems like a good example of how repeatedly saying something is cool doesn’t necessarily make it cool.
🤔 im very sceptical about 3d printing something as crucial as this. you wont know when it fails (and it will). only when its too late. and the damage caused by a hole in the roof...
Wouldn't the need to put the wires through the roof be eliminated by routing them so they enter on the underside of the roof?
And overpaying another company to provide you the same part sounds okay? Who says theyr part will not fail after 5 years? And there is still the problem that you can not buy a fitting roof tile if you're unlucky. There are thousands of different roof tile designs all over the world, and if you get one that does not quite fit, chances of the roof leaking are there from day 1 after installation...
@@NiHaoMike64 that wouldnt work on my house for several reasons. i assume other houses would have the same issues and therefore its not common. also the regular method is not a big deal if its done right.
It looks like something that was on a Star Trek episode!
It would of been good if you did the low polygon re-typology in ZBrush.... awesome software that perpetually upgrades for free. Love pixologic... best software company period!!!!!!!
🇦🇺😎🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🤓
Not "accidental" art - "Experimental" art!
apparently there is 1 view, 3 likes and one comment, I'm early for once :D
If it makes you think,no matter what,it's Art.
Why not just use black ASA instead which is used by the automobile industry?
I've got some of that as well, guess I just wanted to try the PC-blend 🤷♂️
Great video Tom, but the number of ads is getting ridiculous to the point of making it unwatchable.
UA-cam vanced dude
Modern art glob
Lets see
"printing turds with tom"
Put some googly eyes on it!!!
Very heavy "Igorrr - Very Noise"-vibes.
Why you are making sun exposed plastics black? You should think about white :)
Lol, thought this would be some artist bashing video XD
Hello tom. Paul from 3dream labs in the UK. I have emailed you twice about testing our resin. Any chance of a reply fairly soon please?
A good idea for 3d printing. There are many fields printing is useful.
Honestly rather than use that stupidly overpriced spray you can use a water soluble paint in an airbrush and just wash it in water when your done, Literally a good airbrush + compressor and paint would cost less than that crap. Honestly if your printing a lot of things you probably want the airbrush to paint them with anyways.
Honestly the same with the scanner, that thing is literally a rip off. You can easily do this just fine with any phone/decent camera. Honestly you will often get better detail from a good phone scanner to be honest if you have a good phone. Honestly if you have a CUDA capable GPU one good one is meshroom or if you don't Regard3d is another. The only difference with them is you might need to fix a few things up in blender yourself.
Frankly, I don't believe photogrammetry would be able to reproduce any amount of detail close to what the Einscan managed.
@@MadeWithLayers You do realize that the Einscan literally just does the exact same thing right. All it does it take images on a timer while it is rotating and use photogammetry to create a 3d model. The only difference is the other way you have to manually take the pictures yourself but that has the advantage of the fact that you can take more photos of the areas you need more detailed.
@@MaethorDerien That's not right, the EinScan SE is using structured light and not only photogrammetry.
There are many articels about the difference, you will never get such an result with photogrammetry.
I assume you never saw the difference between a 3d Model from a Camera or a real 3D Scanner :=)
11th comment and some questionable art that I guess I have created... I have made some bad art...
Please print borderlands Buttstallion
It's like athletes foot spray
Why do I get the sense you did this because you see the thing I do. 😐🐇
Baby powder
Yeah "Artist"... Right.
You're spoiled by Frau Merkel, guys! )))
I call this piece... the sad lowpoly embryo!