Sorry for the late reply. I don't normally state torque specs as not everyone has access to that tool. If you send me either your full vin number or just the last 8 i can get that for you.
I had to have all four rotors/pads replaced. The make hella noise. I've had them back 4 times and 3 different places have looked at them. Everyone says "everything is fine". Maybe the non OEM semi-metallic pads don't "like" the rotors and the only way to fix it is put ceramic pads on. Should I just swap the pads or do you have a better suggestion? Thanks!
What I have experienced with customers wanting the aftermarket pads is that if your going to go after market you have to buy the premium ceramic or they squeal like crazy.
@@xaviercruz5328 This happens all the time. Just pump the brakes while in park until the pedal gets hard then you can start the break in procedure which is usually a normal test drive at slow speed then applying the brakes semi hard to a stop several times( lets say 5-10) Then just drive like normal.
It's a "professional" brake paste made by wurth. Not sure if you can get that if your not a shop but as long as your using a brake paste and in moderation you should be fine. Just don't put it on the friction surfaces.
@@TheSAFiles no just me no shop I have had the family glk350 for 3 years never replaced the brakes is there something else u can get at local auto parts
@@TheSAFiles suggestions on brake pads beside the over price dealer iam sure cost as much as a tv lol I have replaced brake on my older vehicle in the past but never on thus car only oil change and air filters along with cabin filter replacement
@@geraldmcneal7110 yea they should offer to sell you some when you buy the brakes. Just a word of advice. You get what you pay for with brakes for benz at least. I recommend going with mercedes pads but if your trying to keep it cheap o'Reillys is who I recommend and get the ceramics they are the best for form and function.
Not at all. Not sure if its the materials but no rust issues unless the vehicle was under water for a prolonged period of time. Brake dust is the only thing that builds up because of the composite the pad is made of.
Yoooo. Ma man! Please help me! I wanna do a slight mod on my x204 2013. I wanna code the rear taillights to use the amber color bulbs. I bought the bulbs but it needs coding. Can you help??
If it's just bulbs they should work like the normal bulb unless they are led or a different resistance. As far as coding goes, usually only the dealers have the capability to code as Mercedes Benz likes to keep that to themselves.
A screwdriver or breaker bar because the slide is spinning? This is why I do my own work. How about using the appropriately sized wrench on the nut that is on the slide?
You are correct. I must have mixed the years up from another Glk I was working on at the time. It doesn't really matter as the brake system is identical. The steps are exactly the same.
@@TheSAFiles All good bro. We all make mistakes. Including me. Shit ton! But I do have some questions about the 722.9 jerking a lot. Valve body has been replaced and it still jerks (even with new ATV and reprogramming). Any suggestions?? I wanna keep my GLK350-2013 for as long I can and not trying to get rid of it.
@@TheSAFiles it’s inferential really. Eco starts off on 2nd so it rarely jerks. But overall what really solves this issue. I’ve been told to keep driving and that it adapts eventually... I guess it shouldn’t take over 2days to adapt given we’re almost two years in lol. How do we really get rid of this?
@@1ELiMusic So it can be a couple of things. 1 It can be that the transmission needs to be manually readapted using the Mercedes Benz scan tool(sds). 2 It could be a bad torque converter lock up clutch which is technically the converter itself. 3 It can be glycol contamination cause by a bad radiator in which case you would need to take to the dealer to have that test done and if that is the case best case scenario would be radiator replacement and a transmission fluid flush. 4 Would be that the internal parts of the transmission are starting to go bad in which case possible transmission and torque converter replacement. Unfortunately with out seeing the adaptation data stored in the transmission control unit via a control unit log I wouldn't be able to narrow it down. I hope this helps
ALWAYS machine the rotors or replace them when doing brakes!!! This is what they call “pad-slapping” and it’s terrible. You WILL have issues if you do this.
I wish more vids were to the point like this.
Thanks for the video , i been watching many times and i did my brake pads this morning, it went smooth . Thanks again for the video A+++
No problem. Thanks for supporting the channel
Awesome video! Just finished the break pad job after watching your video. Thanks!
No problem glad I could help
Great job well done Straight to the point.
Great job ! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
You are very welcome
Hi, is there a torque spec for the caliper pin? Thanks for the great video.
Sorry for the late reply. I don't normally state torque specs as not everyone has access to that tool. If you send me either your full vin number or just the last 8 i can get that for you.
I had to have all four rotors/pads replaced. The make hella noise. I've had them back 4 times and 3 different places have looked at them. Everyone says "everything is fine". Maybe the non OEM semi-metallic pads don't "like" the rotors and the only way to fix it is put ceramic pads on. Should I just swap the pads or do you have a better suggestion? Thanks!
What I have experienced with customers wanting the aftermarket pads is that if your going to go after market you have to buy the premium ceramic or they squeal like crazy.
Makes hella noise? Shoulda got Hella brake pads!
can you get a go pro so we can see your point of view? It is harder this way. Thanks.
Great video. Do you need to do anything with the computer after the wrench work???
Sorry for the late reply but no you do not. Mercedes Benz uses a sensor that only requires a complete circuit to eliminate the wear light.
Do I open the brake fluid master cylinder reservoir
No. you shouldn't have to anything with the brake fluid unless its over filled passed max.
@@TheSAFiles thank you 🙏
@@xaviercruz5328 You're very welcome
I did 2 brand new rotors and brake pads all the way around the brake Pedalstill feels kind of squishy after doing everything knew what should I do
@@xaviercruz5328 This happens all the time. Just pump the brakes while in park until the pedal gets hard then you can start the break in procedure which is usually a normal test drive at slow speed then applying the brakes semi hard to a stop several times( lets say 5-10) Then just drive like normal.
What's in the can sprayer ? Oil or grease
It's a "professional" brake paste made by wurth. Not sure if you can get that if your not a shop but as long as your using a brake paste and in moderation you should be fine. Just don't put it on the friction surfaces.
@@TheSAFiles no just me no shop I have had the family glk350 for 3 years never replaced the brakes is there something else u can get at local auto parts
@@TheSAFiles suggestions on brake pads beside the over price dealer iam sure cost as much as a tv lol I have replaced brake on my older vehicle in the past but never on thus car only oil change and air filters along with cabin filter replacement
@@geraldmcneal7110 yea they should offer to sell you some when you buy the brakes. Just a word of advice. You get what you pay for with brakes for benz at least. I recommend going with mercedes pads but if your trying to keep it cheap o'Reillys is who I recommend and get the ceramics they are the best for form and function.
@@TheSAFiles I just look on ebay and the set oem $85 for the whole front with sleeves and one sensor
Thanks a lot awesome video.
No problem. Glad I could help
Do you guys not need to clean under the caliper metal clips? Usually they are rusted like crazy
Not at all. Not sure if its the materials but no rust issues unless the vehicle was under water for a prolonged period of time. Brake dust is the only thing that builds up because of the composite the pad is made of.
Large c-clamp works better than channel locks
Yoooo. Ma man! Please help me! I wanna do a slight mod on my x204 2013. I wanna code the rear taillights to use the amber color bulbs. I bought the bulbs but it needs coding. Can you help??
If it's just bulbs they should work like the normal bulb unless they are led or a different resistance. As far as coding goes, usually only the dealers have the capability to code as Mercedes Benz likes to keep that to themselves.
@@TheSAFiles thanks for the reply. So it can be done? The GLK300 in Europe have this ability
A screwdriver or breaker bar because the slide is spinning? This is why I do my own work. How about using the appropriately sized wrench on the nut that is on the slide?
This is the first generation GLK350 with the m272 engine - US version (2012 and under).
You are correct. I must have mixed the years up from another Glk I was working on at the time. It doesn't really matter as the brake system is identical. The steps are exactly the same.
@@TheSAFiles All good bro. We all make mistakes. Including me. Shit ton! But I do have some questions about the 722.9 jerking a lot. Valve body has been replaced and it still jerks (even with new ATV and reprogramming). Any suggestions?? I wanna keep my GLK350-2013 for as long I can and not trying to get rid of it.
@@1ELiMusic Does it jerk all the time or just like 1-2 2-3 upshifts
@@TheSAFiles it’s inferential really. Eco starts off on 2nd so it rarely jerks. But overall what really solves this issue. I’ve been told to keep driving and that it adapts eventually... I guess it shouldn’t take over 2days to adapt given we’re almost two years in lol. How do we really get rid of this?
@@1ELiMusic So it can be a couple of things. 1 It can be that the transmission needs to be manually readapted using the Mercedes Benz scan tool(sds). 2 It could be a bad torque converter lock up clutch which is technically the converter itself. 3 It can be glycol contamination cause by a bad radiator in which case you would need to take to the dealer to have that test done and if that is the case best case scenario would be radiator replacement and a transmission fluid flush. 4 Would be that the internal parts of the transmission are starting to go bad in which case possible transmission and torque converter replacement. Unfortunately with out seeing the adaptation data stored in the transmission control unit via a control unit log I wouldn't be able to narrow it down. I hope this helps
New brake pads on old rotors. What???? NO. Who does this?? Either machine them or replace them. Never do this! And my god, clean all the parts man.
ALWAYS machine the rotors or replace them when doing brakes!!! This is what they call “pad-slapping” and it’s terrible. You WILL have issues if you do this.
per mercedes benz the rotor can not be machined if it is a genuine mercedes benz rotor as this would put the rotor below minimum thickness.
@@TheSAFiles then you should replace the rotor as stated.
@@hugecakefan you don't replace the rotor unless the rotor has a lip or is below min spec per mercedes benz