B - Battery L - Lights M - Magneto (kill wire) S - Starter G - Ground Key switch position - connected terminals Off - Magneto/Ground Run - Battery/Lights Start - Battery/Starter/Lights
Nice video. I added a second toggle switch instead of jumping the two connectors together. I don't know if it's like a car where the first key turn is accessories which draw power. So two toggle switches, both in opposite directions for on. It would confuse any thief who tries to steal it. That's my welfare security system for my mower.
Want to do the very same thing just don't understand what is the process of connections so it all works and continue to work like that goes were your knowledge in my conundrum is very appropriated my machine although may not be important is an arians Thank you in advance
What does the remaining wire do that you are not hooking up? At 2:20 it’s the top left terminal? If I want to remove the entire original key switch, where does this wire go?
These lawn tractors are the biggest hunks of crap.... But I just looked at tractor supply nearly 2k for a new troybilt... I believe my ignition switch is bad I just picked up a on/off switch and push button today and found you're video, I think I may do things a little different though... I'm about tired of safety switches causing issues so I might just bypass all of that.
I totally agree, that is why this one is merely a get around tractor now with no mower deck. In fact, now mine is running like garbage, white smoking like a wild fire when the throttle is lowered. I have it up for sale now basically for scrap. This was a family member's mower and I would never by anything other than a zero turn name brand.
i just got rid of my key switch on my troy built pony now i can start it with the push button BUT the toggle switch won't kill the engine , but when i get off the seat, it kills the engine so i can live with it just wondering why the toggle switch won't
U could take the 2 wires from the seat and run them to a toggle switch, as if u were sitting on the seat completing the circuit. Flip the switch and it will kill the mower!
@@JRMSweeps yea i thought about doing that , but i'm fine using the seat as a kill switch, what IS confusing me is this : i used a meter to find the run circuit like you did and connected it to the toggle switch yet and the switch broke the circuit , but fails to kill the engine , so IF i do decide later to use a flip switch , i think i will just use it to ground out the coil ( by the way it looks like we have the same troy built mower )
Very interesting. I would pull the spark plug and run jumper wires to the toggle and turn the mower over until the toggle switch kills the spark. May have to move the jumper wires a few times to find the right combo. Weird yours doesn't die using the same combo I did. I know mine takes about 2 secs or more to kill after flipping the switch.
@jrmsweeps I have the push button and kill switch in place. Starts, but the kill switch does not work. I have the "M" and "S" terminals connected to the push button and the "B" and "L" terminals connected to the kill switch. Do I have something connected wrong? Any thoughts? Everything worked good with the original key ignition (safety switches, all that good stuff).
Try the kill switch with the brake on. Other than that, mine sometimes takes about 3 seconds to kill the motor. You could always kill it by pulling the choke lever as well. Not sure why it wouldn't die.
I did the same hook up. Mower is running like a champ. But I'm worried about not hooking up the ground to the ignition switch and the alternator (which shows on the schematics when the mower is turned to off.) Should I be concerned? I mean it makes since when you cut power the lawn mower should turn off, but why then the grounding to these points on turn off?
Haven't had any issues since I did the install. Is it because instead of using one key switch I am using an on off switch separate from the starter button now?
@@JRMSweeps I think you're right. I bet it's incase you get a runaway hot wire... Then you gotta ground out. I guess that's why my friends call me whiskers.
So maybe you so someone can explain me an my brother have a riding more with this kinda switch but the for some reason it has power constantly going through it an trying to start the starter until I press the button in and it breaks that connection
If you’re using the mower as much as I do, a push button start is much more convenient. Plus I’ve been through 2 ignition switches already because keys break off
@@JRMSweeps so I have power to my plug but I am unable to jump power to mower as you did in the video. I can however straight jump from battery too motor.
How was it messing up? Sounds like you dont have a good ground or power wire to the ignition wires. If the initial ignition was messed up, then doing this mod isn't going to fix any wiring issues u had prior to trying this.
This is by far the best push button start tutorial!
Gracias mi amigo!
Thanks for posting. I was able to get my mower going.
oh heck yeah, awesome. thanks for the comment!!!
The cool on off switch I have I throw away before I see this video ofc🤣
?
B - Battery
L - Lights
M - Magneto (kill wire)
S - Starter
G - Ground
Key switch position - connected terminals
Off - Magneto/Ground
Run - Battery/Lights
Start - Battery/Starter/Lights
oh heck yeah!!!
Oh my gosh. I think you saved me.. I have at least six that run but need this ..
Very welcome.
Great video, nice simple instructions.👍👍🇨🇦
Tytytyty
Nice video. I added a second toggle switch instead of jumping the two connectors together. I don't know if it's like a car where the first key turn is accessories which draw power. So two toggle switches, both in opposite directions for on. It would confuse any thief who tries to steal it. That's my welfare security system for my mower.
There ya go, as long as it works! Thief denied lol.
Want to do the very same thing just don't understand what is the process of connections so it all works and continue to work like that goes were your knowledge in my conundrum is very appropriated my machine although may not be important is an arians
Thank you in advance
Have to go thru the same pricess I did, finding the kill switch wire, the on wire, and ignition/starter wire within the wire cluster.
I have watched this 10 times i have to be missing something
All else fails, use a tester light to narrow down what you're missing.
he didnt explain the switch part to much, your coil wire should be the one your looking for to hok up to the toggle switch.
thanks this rlly helped
Welcome!
What does the remaining wire do that you are not hooking up? At 2:20 it’s the top left terminal? If I want to remove the entire original key switch, where does this wire go?
Wish i could help ya on that one but i am not sure tbh.
Probably the ground
These lawn tractors are the biggest hunks of crap.... But I just looked at tractor supply nearly 2k for a new troybilt... I believe my ignition switch is bad I just picked up a on/off switch and push button today and found you're video, I think I may do things a little different though... I'm about tired of safety switches causing issues so I might just bypass all of that.
I totally agree, that is why this one is merely a get around tractor now with no mower deck. In fact, now mine is running like garbage, white smoking like a wild fire when the throttle is lowered. I have it up for sale now basically for scrap. This was a family member's mower and I would never by anything other than a zero turn name brand.
The B stands for battery and what does the L stand for when u briged the wired together
Man, I really have no idea.
I have a similar push button switch i'm trying to remove. What the secret to accomplishing that?
Removing it? Just cut wires...not sure what you mean, sorry.
i just got rid of my key switch on my troy built pony now i can start it with the push button BUT the toggle switch won't kill the engine , but when i get off the seat, it kills the engine
so i can live with it just wondering why the toggle switch won't
Did u wire up the switch like I did in the vid? You may have the wrong combo of wires to the toggle and they might be diff colors as well.
U could take the 2 wires from the seat and run them to a toggle switch, as if u were sitting on the seat completing the circuit. Flip the switch and it will kill the mower!
@@JRMSweeps yea i thought about doing that , but i'm fine using the seat as a kill switch, what IS confusing me is this : i used a meter to find the run circuit like you did and connected it to the toggle switch yet and the switch broke the circuit , but fails to kill the engine , so IF i do decide later to use a flip switch , i think i will just use it to ground out the coil ( by the way it looks like we have the same troy built mower )
Very interesting. I would pull the spark plug and run jumper wires to the toggle and turn the mower over until the toggle switch kills the spark. May have to move the jumper wires a few times to find the right combo. Weird yours doesn't die using the same combo I did. I know mine takes about 2 secs or more to kill after flipping the switch.
not being rude or hating but alternative title: how to hot wire a riding mower
Oh most def for sure!!!
Mine has the same switch. What other terminals did you use other than B&L?
I used what was in the vid. Not sure what you mean outside of that, sorry.
@jrmsweeps I have the push button and kill switch in place. Starts, but the kill switch does not work. I have the "M" and "S" terminals connected to the push button and the "B" and "L" terminals connected to the kill switch. Do I have something connected wrong? Any thoughts? Everything worked good with the original key ignition (safety switches, all that good stuff).
Try the kill switch with the brake on. Other than that, mine sometimes takes about 3 seconds to kill the motor. You could always kill it by pulling the choke lever as well. Not sure why it wouldn't die.
One terminal needs to go to ground ?
Everything I dis in the vid worked for me wire wise.
I did the same hook up. Mower is running like a champ. But I'm worried about not hooking up the ground to the ignition switch and the alternator (which shows on the schematics when the mower is turned to off.) Should I be concerned? I mean it makes since when you cut power the lawn mower should turn off, but why then the grounding to these points on turn off?
Haven't had any issues since I did the install. Is it because instead of using one key switch I am using an on off switch separate from the starter button now?
@@JRMSweeps I think you're right. I bet it's incase you get a runaway hot wire... Then you gotta ground out. I guess that's why my friends call me whiskers.
Possibly Whiskers lol. Now you need to add some light bars and an LED whip like I did to my party mower.
So maybe you so someone can explain me an my brother have a riding more with this kinda switch but the for some reason it has power constantly going through it an trying to start the starter until I press the button in and it breaks that connection
did you ground it?
Wouldn’t it just be easier to just leave the key in the ignition? Just saying. 😁
Trying to get cool points here 🤙🤙🤙
If you’re using the mower as much as I do, a push button start is much more convenient. Plus I’ve been through 2 ignition switches already because keys break off
Why don't you show what the plug to ignition switch looks like?
Do what?
Hey I tried jumping like you did and it’s not working. If you ain’t busy shoot me a message
Okay what's up
@@JRMSweeps so I have power to my plug but I am unable to jump power to mower as you did in the video.
I can however straight jump from battery too motor.
Prior to doing this, were you able to start the mower with the original key/ignition set up?
@@JRMSweeps yes but it kept messing up.
How was it messing up? Sounds like you dont have a good ground or power wire to the ignition wires. If the initial ignition was messed up, then doing this mod isn't going to fix any wiring issues u had prior to trying this.
Where did you get the parts?
You know what, you're right my bad. I got the push button starter at autozone. Sorry about that.
Autozone