Just bought a pair of skis and bindings from Ski Essentials to add to my quiver and can't say enough good things about the company and its knowledgeable employees. You guys and the staff at SE are the best! Looking forward to using the new gear any day now. Thanks for the binding info.
Thank you so much for the kind words and your support! Really means a lot. Have a fantastic season and don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything!
These videos are so comprehensive, it takes days to digest all the information. Fantastic job Jeff and Bob. A great thanks to Matt S for all the help he provided. Cant wait to get my look Pivot 15 mounted on my Rustler 9s. I cant thank you all enough for your time and effort not to mention your depth of knowledge in instructing people who are as passionate about the sport as you all are! thanks again!
Awesome, thanks so much and glad you got a great setup! Matt's sitting right behind me right now so I'll pass this message right along! Have a great winter.
Great video and analysis/commentary. For the next video, please cover hybrid bindings, adapters, and ski crampons. Specifically, please include the CAST Tour setup with crampons for the tech toe. Also cover the new day makers that still have no crampon solution 😢. Then talk about the usual suspects ... the Jester-friendly Duke PTs with marker crampons (only 2 sizes). If one were to venture away from the Jester and Pivot-friendly hybrid solutions, into the 10-hour tour mission binding, what's the "safest" binding that can drive a 115+ fat pow ski (think agent 4 or similar)? Which of these comes closest to the jester downhill performance? Tough questions for our brilliant ski gurus! Thank you in advance
Ohh all good suggestions! We can talk about CAST and Day Makers for sure, although we might not have them physically to show. Definitely worth mentioning, however!
Pivot 12 is a winner !! As a 150lbs advanced older skier the more HD pivots were overkill when my DIN is a 6.5. The black color way could be more exciting but hey.
Hey guys! Just bought a pair of Black Crows Justis in 183cm and considering which bindings to get. Torn between Strive 12 and 14 (and 16 to some extent) and I’m thinking about what will the benefits be moving up the range. I’m 190lbs, pretty powerful skier, don’t do big jumps anymore but love speeding through anything. Worth spending the extra €€€ for the 14 or even the 16? Thanks a lot!
Moving up in range puts you more in the middle of the DIN scale, which is a good place to be for consistency. There's a big difference in the heel pieces, as the 16's is the most rugged and sturdy. It gets more plasticky as you move down to the 14's and 12's. It's more about the confidence and durability than the performance, which is relatively equal throughout relative to your weight/DIN range.
The Griffon is heavy and the heel is not at all easy to open. Copper Mountain, 2022; on the track right above Mine Dump and a “person” skiis onto the tail of my left ski releases my Pivot 14. Sent me thrushes rope down a 4’ drop. LOVE those Pivots!
I was looking into buying a pair of ARV 116 JJ UL and saw a pretty good deal in an online shop, where i basically buy the Armada Strive 12 GW and the skis in a set. Its pretty cheap of a deal but since the bindings have a break width of 115 i was wondering if they even fit on the skis (116)? The online shop just resells so they probably didnt put much thought into it…
Do you guys have any information on the binding delta of each of these, the toes height aswell as the Heel height. This would be greatly appreciated as it affects how the binding feels by a lot
We did not include that information for a few reasons: 1. It's hard to find. 2. This video and article are meant to help guide skiers to the proper binding, and that level of information may cause more questions than answers. For most skiers, the delta of a binding will be a non-issue. 3. Skiers who are detail-oriented enough to even know of such things will likely source that information themselves. Also, they'll likely have the knowledge and capacity to change the delta through binding shims or lifts, or in the ramp of the boot, if it comes to that. 4. Boot size matters so you have to know the reference length used to determine a particular binding's delta (normally 26.5 but could be different I suppose).
@@SkiEssentials Im struggling to find the Heel height for some of these bindings, and I have not seen a conclusive collection of Heel VS toe heights in popular retail bindings. you can get the delta from toe vs heel height regardless of Boot size. ive seen only various random website carry this information and sometimes they are outdated. I'm curious about marker griffons in particular and how high the heel is vs the toe.
STH’s used to be the pick as the easiest to step back into in deep snow/powder (right?). Would Strives be that pick now? I love Pivots but have chased more than one Pivot mounted ski down a hill after trying to step back into them after a release. Pivot heels are finicky to step back into and brakes can be ineffective in some deep snow conditions. Watching a very spendy ski just take off down a steep deep run is a sickening feeling!! I now use about 4 feet of fluorescent 550 paracord as a powder cord and a means to catch a ski that starts to take off. I just stuff them under the elastic cuffs on my shell pants.
I'm stuck on choosing between an Attack 14, Pivot 15, and Strive 14 or 16. It would be for a pair of rustler 9's, where I spend a lot of time in bumps and trees, and I do some moderate drops (10 foot max). Any advice to help me choose? Thanks so much for the great videos!
All good options with appropriate brake widths. On a Rustler 9, I think the Strive 14 in the Orange color would look sweet, or the Pivot in the Forza would add some flair.
I am looking to either put attack 14 or griffon 13 on a pair of rustler 10. Both binding seems really alike. Would you have recommandation about one over another?
They're very similar in performance, it's mostly a personal preference thing with how they feel. The heel piece of the Griffon feels SOLID. Some people love it, some prefer the easier click in of the Attack heel. The feeling the Griffon heel gives you when clicking in can be confidence-inspiring because it feels so strong and it's easy to visually see what it's doing with the single pivot. On the other hand, realistically the retention/release is about the same between them, so it's more of a perception than a reality. Some skiers really like the low stand height of the Attack 14, and there's something be said about low center of gravity on a more freeride-focused ski like the Rustler. Griffon isn't like it's uncomfortable high stand height, but there is a slight difference there. Hope that helps!
You could have just measured the heels that same way you measured toes. I know the angle changes between boot size but knowing the toe and heel height can let people know if the binding they are buying and then have been skiing is a good choice. Considering I have found as much a 8mm difference between toe and heel height(heel high), as well some blizzard skis being slight toe high and looks being on 1mm difference, these are huge changes that can be insurmountiable to people getting better skiing. Id go so far to say that one of you constantly is in overall set up that is toe to low by 2/4mm. I get it, people can adapt(well kinda) but ideal setups, or as ideal as possible can help intermiedate though literal pro skier ski better.
Great review guys! Just bought some Maverick 88 TI s and checking out bindings. Same as you guys I have always had a thing for the “Pivots” Will probably get the 15 teens, ( don’t need that din range but the toe piece is alloy and not plastic)I have a quick question regarding brake drag(95 on 88) - the brakes don’t stow up and away like some newer design bindings and does this create issues when carving. My days of dropping my hip on the piste when carving are well gone, but would like to know your views when you have time. Thanks from across the pond (UK)
Jeff and I (Bob) differ slightly in our opinions here. He seems to have no issue with a 95 brake on an 88, and has a Pivot 95 on his Mirus Cor at 87 mm underfoot. As much as I'd love to have put a blue Pivot 15 on a new Mantra 88, I just don't feel as good as when I'm on a Strive or a Jester with a 90 mm brake for these skis. The tucking is not only a mental hurdle for me, but I also find it to be physical--I personally feel that the drag matters and 100% wish they made an 85 mm brake or simply made the brakes tuck in nicer. I also think that for a Mantra 88 or Anomaly or Enforcer 89, having a binding with a longer mount zone or a higher stand height isn't the worst thing in the world.
No, not really. The real benefit of the 15/18 toe is its seemingly infinite longevity. The one exception to that is I suppose the 12/14 toe would be slightly more susceptible to pre-release, but I emphasize slight, and it's arguably a perception thing more than it is a reality. I know at least for me, looking down and seeing the 15/18 toe does give me a lot of confidence.
Would you say skier weight has an impact on binding choice? I’m a bigger guy with rustler 10’s but tend to jib around and go off natural hits. I sit in my kitchen staring at my Attack 14’s vs Griffon 13’s and don’t know where to go.
Weight is a factor in determining your DIN, and your DIN is a factor in finding the right binding. Confidence matters, too. If you're a bigger skier who's putting torque and pressure on your skis, the Jester 16's metal wings and towers helps.
Hey guys, I recently had a marker griffon 13 from 2023 mounted on my new skis and they feel really, really tight on the boot. Like they‘re just so short that it‘s super difficult to step into the binding. I double checked if they‘re adjusted correctly and by what it says about adjusting the heel piece of this binding they are set up right. But it just doesn‘t feel right like this, like it litterally scrapes off the top of my boot heel when I step in. What would you guys recommend? Like can I just open the lenght up a bit and it‘s still safe?
It's not terribly uncommon. You really have to push the heel back a bit to get correct forward pressure with Griffons (and other Royal Family) when you're clicking in. Definitely is more noticeable than on most brands. What's your DIN? I've had situations running a higher DIN where it can be tough and I experience at least a little bit of what you're experiencing. It might be worth double checking forward pressure and dialing it back a touch, but I would (of course) recommend having a tech take a look at them too to verify. Have they been used a lot or are they still relatively new? Sometimes the mechanisms can dry out a little bit and it gets even tougher, but I don't expect that's the case here.
@@SkiEssentialsThanks for the answer. I’m kinda unsure, about what to do. Like if it’s gonna still be save on forward pressure if I open it up by about 5-7mm. Wild that this seems to be a common problem, I wish I‘d known beforehand. I‘m a fairly light skier at 64kg with a a relatively short boot at 295mm. My Z is at a 6 right now, but I might adjust it depending on how hard I ski. The binding is fairly new, I‘d say about twenty days of use before me. When I put my boot in I do have to step in it with what feels like my whole weight and it does move back on the rail quite a bit before it can even close properly. No chance I could step back in the binding in a situation where I‘d loose a ski on track or even piste. Seems kinda odd for it to be intended that way by the company but checking in with the technician and looking at tutorials they all say, that that‘s how it‘s supposed to be set up on Markers. :-/
I watched this whole thing hoping you’d go through heel and toe height differences between bindings (often referred to as delta) as that is the MOST important thing for me. I cannot ski with my heels significantly higher than my toes and that information is SO HARD to find online despite being a quick and easy measurement by sellers. I started skiing during covid and almost quit immediately as the skis that were sold to me as a good beginner setup had a steep delta which feels horrid for me. Luckily I tried a different setup purely by chance and went from feeling out of control and miserable on greens to zipping happily down black bump runs in a few days with the right delta. I’d like to buy a new pair of skis this year but cannot buy from you guys as you don’t have this listed on your site and when I messaged your customer service on your website basically got an “uhhh, I don’t know/wont find out” response. This isn’t some niche preference that only bothers advanced skiers and is really a make or break for some people that you are loosing sales by neglecting.
For us, it can be a hard thing to talk about because different body types, skiing styles, etc will react differently to varying delta. Luckily, there are ways of customizing it to your own needs. I know lots of skiers who mount shims under their toe pieces to achieve what is the right delta for them. If we were to put a list together, would that be helpful? I find it almost impossible to sit in a video and say "this delta will be a benefit to this type of skier because of this reason." It's just not that black and white, at least it's not in my opinion. I'd be happy to take the most popular ~10-15 bindings and make a list of delta. Would that fulfill what you're looking for? Just the mm difference? This is ~10 years old, but it would look similar: www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/2013-09-09-17-07-34/ski-binding-delta-angles
Yes! I’m familiar with that list from the piste office and an updated one with just the mm difference between heel and toe for the popular alpine and touring bindings would be perfect and SO helpful! I totally agree that it’s impossible to say what delta would benefit what skier, but just saying that people may find they have personal preferences and here’s a reference for what else has that height ratio once you find your sweet spot would be so helpful. I hope in the future ski instructors and shops are more aware that delta really affects some people, I started on the marker 10 TPs and they would have been solely responsible for me quitting skiing if I hadn’t tried a different setup that was lower in the heel and realized that I actually loved skiing when I felt like I could get my feet flat on the skis :)
For a relatively new skier, you have impressive knowledge of delta and its effects. Sometimes I worry that people would get a little too hung up on it, but I do think having the information available for those who are interested and knowledgable would be helpful. We'll work on putting something together and finding a place for it on our site. Thanks for the feedback!
@@SkiEssentials Binding delta is the most important binding characteristic, much more important than stand height. The exact optimal delta is person-specific, but, as a general rule, if the heel is too high, this puts skiers in the backseat. I just bought the Marker Free 7 and had them mounted on my son's Head Kore Jr, and the resulting delta is 6mm heel high, which is ridiculous for such a small BSL (240 mm). For all of my skis, I use lifters to bring them to 2mm heel high, and will try to do the same for my son. Ideally, the industry should have a standard delta across all bindings, be it flat (0mm), 1mm heel high, or 2mm heel high. Not sure if we will ever get there, but for now, it would be great if every manufacturer clearly stated the binding delta for every binding they produce.
Hello. I have a Rossignol Experience 88 Basalt that comes with a binding AXIUM 120. Could you tell me if this binding is compatible with following ski boots: Atomic Hawx Ultra, Salomon S/Pro Alpha, Lange Shadow, Nordica Promachine (all with grip walk soles). Thanks a lot for your help!
Hey I would like to buy a new binding for my nordica unleashed 98. I'm deciding between, tyrolia attacks 14 retail or demo version. I would like to have the demo because of the option to change a mounting point a bit really easy, and also to be able to give my skis to my friends sometimes. BUT Im scared of losing the power im agressive, hard charging skiing as the demos have higher stance. Is there much difference between demos and the retail version, in terms of carving, hitting side hits, hard charging? Or should I go with marker griffon 13 demo which has lower stand height but is a bit heavier.
We ski on demo bindings pretty much all the time. They work great and do boost the leverage in a carved turn. That said, for more all-mountain and freeride applications, it creates a bit of a lag, and makes the ski a bit twitchy in softer snow.
Thank you Jeff and Bob. Great videos! I have a specific questions on ski boots length adjustability. I am considering switching to a smaller ski boot size, from 255mm to 245mm. Could you please let me know if all these alpine bindings can be adjusted to accommodate both boot sizes without the need for re-drilling? Thank you!
You need to check the adjustment ranges of the bindings. I'd say most could accommodate your needs but maybe not the Look Pivots. I know they improved the adjustment range but it's still low.
Generally most of the bindings here can move up to 20mm, but it also depends on where the ski was mounted initially. Also keep in mind, that even though it's a slight change, the toe will remain static, so you're also slightly changing the midsole point on the ski.
I have a Marker Kingpin 13 on my Völkl Mantra 102. I heared mixed things about the Kingpin. Most of the time i go skiing in a Skiresort on and off Pist, but never have i been on a skitour. Should i change the binding on my ski to a alpine binding, because i don't plan on going on a ski tour in the near future.
Yes you will be better off in an alpine binding on the Mantra 102. Marker Griffon is a great place to start, matching the 13 level release value. Keep the Kingpin and try to source a lighter ski that's better suited to touring, and then you'll have an awesome setup for both uphill and downhill! Curious, what boots are you using?
Not a ton of variance here overall. Pivots remain the flattest overall and Attacks seem to be on the steeper side as they have a lower toe height. It'd be interesting to see how and adjustable delta would fly in the binding world, although we have no knowledge if that's coming down the pipe.
Question: does it make sense to mount a Pivot 15 on a plate on a 88 wide ski in order have better leverage when carving ? I do not do park or ski backwards. Thanks :-)
Yes and no, mostly no. There's not a great plate option for Pivots these days. In theory, it's possible, but would require a good amount of creativity and customization. The plate is also kind of negating the benefits of a Pivot (low stand height, short drill pattern, natural flex underfoot). I personally would go a different route. You could do toe and heel risers, but again we're getting into some pretty customized territory here.
Pivots don't make sense for carving skis in general. They have 0 ramp (great for freestyle, not great for driving your shovels) and the brakes don't fold up nearly as well as other bindings.
Just get a Strive and be done with it. I think a plate on that wide of a ski is kind of weird IMO. Usually plates are on race skis that are so narrow that booting out is a concern. Going for an 88 suggests some off trail application which is generally better served by having a low stand point.
I've skied most of the 13+ din bindings, Strive 16 is the clear winner for me. Fantastic build and feel, low weight, very user friendly, and lots of elastic travel. If you can afford them (or find a deal) that's the one to get! On bindings that aren't in the video: any thoughts on the Attack LYT 12 vs the 14? It has the 14's heel with the LYT toe, I'm not sure who it's for. Is there anything new with the SPX 13 vs the 12? I'm assuming they just added a 1 to compete in the Griffon/Strive 14/Attack 14 market
It's very interesting how these companies position their bindings and swap/combine parts. Unless you look at them all at the same time, you'd really never know. It seems like Tyrolia is pushing that LYT toe in both retail and demo markets--I bet it's just an added push here to get more of the toe pieces out into the world. With the SPX, it does seem like they're moving to the teens to compete. The toe looks like the 12 toe to me. At $249 it also is very competitive price-wise.
At what point does a skiers size start becoming more of a factor vs their ski style? Ie 5’10 160 lbs chill skier could ski bindings w 12 din max Ie 6’10 260 chill skier would need a --? Is there a pretty easy way to ballpark this relationship?
There are online charts where you can determine your DIN and find a good middle ground in a binding. Height, age, weight, boot sole length, and skier type all combine to create your release value.
@ thanks, I’ve checked those out and have a basic idea of what I’ll need. I will also demo a few different setups and see what feels best for my style. Cheers!
I ski the Protector 13 on Enforcer 104 Frees. Zero issues, I can’t say I can feel any difference and zero issues with early releases or anything like that. Big fan.
I think it'll work great. The ones we sell, and the ones in the video, come as a demo system so the stand height is high. On-trail it's got a lot of power and precision. Off-trail, the higher height can feel a bit twitchy.
I'm not sure if "better" is the right word, and certainly not for everyone. I find that a Pivot allows the ski to flex more naturally due to the shorter mount zone. With less of a dead spot underfoot, you can feel the suspension of the ski smooth things out a bit better. On-piste and in carved turns, I don't feel that there is much of an increase, it is more noticeable in bumps, trees, crud, chop, etc.
100 should be fine, worst case you'll need to ever so slightly bend the brakes on the 100. If you don't like that idea, SkiEssentials and Powder7 both have the purple 115 in stock right now. Edit: Unrelated, but the Countach is a phenomenal ski, you'll love it.
I love the Strive, it's a great binding. However, the break widths feel really off. 90 / 100 / 115 leaves so much room for improvement. Putting a 115 break on a Rustler 10 / Ripstick 102 / Blaze 104 is .. doable, but feels kinda odd. I guess 2mm are always there (after all, it's 1mm on each side of the ski), you very likely can mount a Strive with a 100mm break on Rustler 10 or Ripstick 102, but you're on your own with that, as shops don't allow you to select that break width with these skis. What's your take on a 115 break on a 102 ski?
@@SkiEssentials They'll do, but then i'll have to mount it myself which is a pain in the back without the drill pattern. I'm curious about your retailer pov and experience and if there are any downsides with a 115 break on a 102 ski, other than the odd feeling and a potential 'looseness' when carrying the skis.
@@patrion6028 Other than the overhang, there's no issues, but that's a pretty big issue with a 102 mm ski and a 115 mm brake. I find it hard to believe that a shop wouldn't mount a 100 Strive to a 102 ski, and I just called up our tech shop and he said there's nothing in the rule book that states they can't.
@@patrion6028 Why would you have to mount the 100 yourself? Shops will mount them the same as any other binding; the 100 brake will clear a 106~ ski without bending
Yikes. Last week, I had to decide on bindings before this came out. I've used Marker Griffons in the past, but this time, I went with Tyrolia Attack 14s. Now, I'm going to find out if I messed up. 😨
I have a couple of pairs of Strive 12 and Squire 11 bindings, and they work great functionally, but they all have the same issue (though not all of them). After skiing for an hour or two, a squeaking sound starts to appear between the bindings and the skis, which is very annoying and drives me crazy. I asked staff at two different ski shops, but they couldn’t explain why this happens. I really like the lightweight design of these two bindings, but I have switched to the Strive 14 because of the squeaking sound…do you know why this happened?…
I think moving from the more plastic heel pieces of the 11 and 12 to the 14 will make a difference. Always start with a binding adjustment and a test with your boot at a shop by a certified binding tech. Cold weather and moving parts simply equate to squeaky noises--it could be as basic as that.
Be interested in on snow feel comparisons of STH2 16/ Strive 16 and Pivot 15? You mentioned the natural ski flex.. can you include swing weight, is that palpable. Also, I personally love the STH2.. solid heel and excellent elasticity - always released when I needed and held when not. I think I feel the ski flex better with the STH2 toe.. wondering if you pick up much difference with the longer toe hole pattern of the Strive and cf. the pivot? Also Also, ramp angle for more centre mounted pow skis.. can you tangibly feel the difference? Im assuming the flatter pivots help a more upright stance.
I own/owned all three, the Strive 16 is my favourite. The Pivot is noticeably heavier and it does make a difference, especially for popping. Strive 16 has it's weight concentrated under your toe and next to the ski, feels great. Haven't noticed a difference in flex but they are on different skis. I think I can feel the difference in ramp but they both feel good, Strive is perhaps a bit more natural feeling to me. Pivots are great for skiing centered, won't be an issue on the Strive but 0 ramp is ideal for that. The elastic travel in the Pivot heel has saved my ass before, so that's a plus
I think that the performance of the Pivot, including swing weight and a more natural angle, are felt more in an off-trail and soft snow situation. The suspension of the ski is improved with the shorter mount zone even though you can feel a heftier toe and heel in Pivot. On-trail, I never felt the Pivot out-performed an STH or a Strive. The longer mount zone actually stiffens the flex of that area, delivering more consistent edge grip--think race plate, but on a much lower level.
Jester broke on me after 4 seasons on park skis … on other pair I have rossignol fks 155 (look pivot) last maybe 7 seasons …. Before it was raced few seasons on super G skis …. These days it is only pivots I use and would use thanks to cast.
Hey guys, so I’m having trouble deciding between the marker duke and the pivot 15 with a cast system as a 90:10 alpine/touring setup. Mostly do high edge angle carving but definitely still ski around. Is the pivot a good option for carving? Would I be better off with a duke considering a higher stand height for more leverage, or would the uncompramised downhill performance of a pivot be better? They’re going on an arcade 88 for reference.
Binding aside, lets talk brakes for a second. The Pivot 95, in my mind, doesn't line up great with an 88 like this that's built for carving. The Duke, unfortunately comes with either a 100 or a 125. The 100's don't tuck in as nicely as the Griffon/Jester since the brake mechanism is different on Duke. Of these choices, I think the Pivot is a slightly better option.
@@SkiEssentialsin terms of a alpine binding with no compromise on the downhill would there be any other options other than something like the daymaker?
@@bensnyder8156 not that I can think of. Are you sure you want to tour on the Arcade 88? Understanding that not everyone can have multiple setups, but just want to make sure you're getting the proper use out of the skis and bindings. Daymaker sure is an option for occasional tours as it allows you to put whatever binding you want on the ski.
@@SkiEssentialsyea I’m aware they’re definitely heavy and not designed for it, but I really only care about the descent and if that means lugging something heavier on the up I don’t mind. If there was a touring ski that had a similar radius I would definitely consider it but I haven’t really found anything
I’ve broken 2 pairs of Salomon sth, and 1 pair of jesters. That said, 80% of all the skiing I’ve done has been on pivot 18s or 15s. Never a single issue, pre-release or non-release during a twisting fall. I won’t ski on anything else, pivot 15/18 are the undisputed king imo.
I just bought some. Haven't skied them yet. Very unusual in that they have vertical release in the toe and lateral release in the heel. A lot of tech for a modest price. Attack 13 is discontinued I think (now 14).
Looks like a good price point option vs. the Attack. The toe is narrower, and is more designed for on-piste skis--the big thing about the Attack 14 is the wider AFD for greater leverage on wider skis.
@@SkiEssentials I wish they would pack them better. Sometimes the Pivot paint arrives pre-scratched due to them clanging together in the box during shipping. That’s feedback for Look.
@@SkiingIsBelieving859 I am with you, but when they pack them carelessly like garbage, it makes me wonder how well they’re actually manufactured. Packaging is one of the few things I can validate with the naked eye. I have no visibility into how they are made and tested, and I’m not reassured…
Hi guys, great video as always! Would the Protector PR 13 mounted on a track work well on a Ranger 96? Would the stack height be problematic? Alternately, I like the new Pivots but appreciate the safety offered by the Protector.
I think if you are just ripping groomers, the Protectors will work great. I've heard they aren't the best from an all mountain perspective because they release sideways too easily during off trail maneuvers. They do make an all mountain version with a slightly lower stack height.
If safety is high on your priority list, then it's probably worth going with the Protector here. For carving, the stack height is advantageous, but if you get in softer snow it can feel a bit twitchy.
@@SkiEssentialsSo far be it from me to disagree with you, but IMO as a regular consumer with limited knowledge of the binding market, you're not going to have a problem. It's not something I've ever thought about, and whilst maybe I could ski something that feels better if I tried a bunch back to back, I doubt most people would think about it and just get used to any perceived downsides. With other products I would feel differently about this and say by all means get the best, but this is effectively a totally different product to anything else on the market, so you can't really compare it to other bindings because they don't do what this does. So my opinion is that if protecting your knees is something you're concerned about, get them on whatever ski you ride and you're not going to have any issues with them.
How come you guys don’t include atomic/salomon stage bindings? My wife has a few pairs and they are a great lightweight cheaper alternative to the strive.
Simply, we do not have them or sell them. Certainly nothing wrong with the Stage and given a lighter weight and lower price point, it's a fantastic option for many, many skiers.
I'm still unclear why anyone would go from a 10 to 11 Din binding. Or even why you would buy a 14 over an 11. If your proper Din is hypothetically seven, (and that's based on some Advanced formula that you should not mess with) Why do you need to use a higher Din binding ? In theory a 10 or 11 should be more than you'll ever need. And why not just increase your D I N instead of buying a more heavyweight binding if you need more retention? I have a tack 11 and 14 I've never noticed a difference in release when they're both set to seven. I've taken some pretty nasty Falls. I don't really ski park, but I do lots of side hits and will drop anything from 3 to 7 ft. I've never had an issue, or seen a difference in releases. However one season I did increase my d i to a 9 as an experiment..... my ski did not release when it should have in powder, and I tore my calf and knee. So I learned the hard way not to question the formula for d i n😂😂. I can't figure out when I should be upgrading to a pivot or something heavy duty. It seems like it's only going to add weight to my setup and cost. There's not too much on the mountain I haven't attempted with an attack 11😅.
I think the key word here that you use is "need." I feel like the SUV or Truck comparison is in play here. Most people don't need an SUV to get about their daily lives, but they prefer it or want it. Same can be said for a Pivot 18. You are correct, most people don't need a higher DIN binding, and if you're concerned about weight and cost, then an Attack 11 or a Squire is going to be just fine.
I cranked my DIN up in my early 20s because the bindings would release on moguls, sometimes. Fast forward 5 years and I blew out my ACL because my skis didn't release. Don't do it!!
Just bought a pair of skis and bindings from Ski Essentials to add to my quiver and can't say enough good things about the company and its knowledgeable employees. You guys and the staff at SE are the best! Looking forward to using the new gear any day now. Thanks for the binding info.
Thank you so much for the kind words and your support! Really means a lot. Have a fantastic season and don't hesitate to reach out if you need anything!
I’m very done the same. Several pairs over several years. Always very pleased. You guys are great
These videos are so comprehensive, it takes days to digest all the information. Fantastic job Jeff and Bob. A great thanks to Matt S for all the help he provided. Cant wait to get my look Pivot 15 mounted on my Rustler 9s. I cant thank you all enough for your time and effort not to mention your depth of knowledge in instructing people who are as passionate about the sport as you all are! thanks again!
Awesome, thanks so much and glad you got a great setup! Matt's sitting right behind me right now so I'll pass this message right along! Have a great winter.
The Look Pivot 15 Super Edition color just looks awesome. Matches the Rossi Super Black Ops color perfectly too.
Great video and analysis/commentary. For the next video, please cover hybrid bindings, adapters, and ski crampons. Specifically, please include the CAST Tour setup with crampons for the tech toe. Also cover the new day makers that still have no crampon solution 😢. Then talk about the usual suspects ... the Jester-friendly Duke PTs with marker crampons (only 2 sizes). If one were to venture away from the Jester and Pivot-friendly hybrid solutions, into the 10-hour tour mission binding, what's the "safest" binding that can drive a 115+ fat pow ski (think agent 4 or similar)? Which of these comes closest to the jester downhill performance? Tough questions for our brilliant ski gurus! Thank you in advance
Ohh all good suggestions! We can talk about CAST and Day Makers for sure, although we might not have them physically to show. Definitely worth mentioning, however!
Well done boys!! That blue steel pivot is niiice
Loving the retro look of my new Salomon QST Blanks with Strive 16 747’s just need snow! ❄️💥
Pivot 12 is a winner !! As a 150lbs advanced older skier the more HD pivots were overkill when my DIN is a 6.5. The black color way could be more exciting but hey.
It's a very nice option for skiers like yourself!!
Great one, now we need the touring bindings. There is much more to talk about.
What are some points you'd like to see highlighted in a touring discussion?
Great video guys. I appreciate the extra info on vertical release toe pieces, I was wondering about them.
I wish I could get an SPX 15 that would mount flat. I used the PX 15 for quite a while and loved it.
I have also managed to partially break wings on griffons, on my pow skis. As it was still holding i didnt noticed it untill end of the day.
Hey guys! Just bought a pair of Black Crows Justis in 183cm and considering which bindings to get. Torn between Strive 12 and 14 (and 16 to some extent) and I’m thinking about what will the benefits be moving up the range. I’m 190lbs, pretty powerful skier, don’t do big jumps anymore but love speeding through anything. Worth spending the extra €€€ for the 14 or even the 16? Thanks a lot!
following
Moving up in range puts you more in the middle of the DIN scale, which is a good place to be for consistency. There's a big difference in the heel pieces, as the 16's is the most rugged and sturdy. It gets more plasticky as you move down to the 14's and 12's. It's more about the confidence and durability than the performance, which is relatively equal throughout relative to your weight/DIN range.
@ So getting the 14 would be a good compromise between getting the newer 3 piece heel that should feel a bit tighter than the old Warden 11 right?
The Griffon is heavy and the heel is not at all easy to open. Copper Mountain, 2022; on the track right above Mine Dump and a “person” skiis onto the tail of my left ski releases my Pivot 14. Sent me thrushes rope down a 4’ drop. LOVE those Pivots!
Might be a good idea to include cast freetour modified pivots into the touring comparison?
FYI, the Pivot 2s also have more boot length travel adjustment (need to remmount bindings less ofter)
Yes, thank you, another change, and it's all due to the new arm angle!
I was looking into buying a pair of ARV 116 JJ UL and saw a pretty good deal in an online shop, where i basically buy the Armada Strive 12 GW and the skis in a set. Its pretty cheap of a deal but since the bindings have a break width of 115 i was wondering if they even fit on the skis (116)? The online shop just resells so they probably didnt put much thought into it…
The Strive 115 will fit just fine on a 116 ski.
@@SkiEssentialscool thanks
Do you guys have any information on the binding delta of each of these, the toes height aswell as the Heel height. This would be greatly appreciated as it affects how the binding feels by a lot
We did not include that information for a few reasons:
1. It's hard to find.
2. This video and article are meant to help guide skiers to the proper binding, and that level of information may cause more questions than answers. For most skiers, the delta of a binding will be a non-issue.
3. Skiers who are detail-oriented enough to even know of such things will likely source that information themselves. Also, they'll likely have the knowledge and capacity to change the delta through binding shims or lifts, or in the ramp of the boot, if it comes to that.
4. Boot size matters so you have to know the reference length used to determine a particular binding's delta (normally 26.5 but could be different I suppose).
@@SkiEssentials Im struggling to find the Heel height for some of these bindings, and I have not seen a conclusive collection of Heel VS toe heights in popular retail bindings.
you can get the delta from toe vs heel height regardless of Boot size.
ive seen only various random website carry this information and sometimes they are outdated.
I'm curious about marker griffons in particular and how high the heel is vs the toe.
STH’s used to be the pick as the easiest to step back into in deep snow/powder (right?). Would Strives be that pick now? I love Pivots but have chased more than one Pivot mounted ski down a hill after trying to step back into them after a release. Pivot heels are finicky to step back into and brakes can be ineffective in some deep snow conditions. Watching a very spendy ski just take off down a steep deep run is a sickening feeling!! I now use about 4 feet of fluorescent 550 paracord as a powder cord and a means to catch a ski that starts to take off. I just stuff them under the elastic cuffs on my shell pants.
Strive, especially the 16, is the progression of STH. The toe is different but the heel is the same.
I'm stuck on choosing between an Attack 14, Pivot 15, and Strive 14 or 16. It would be for a pair of rustler 9's, where I spend a lot of time in bumps and trees, and I do some moderate drops (10 foot max). Any advice to help me choose? Thanks so much for the great videos!
All good options with appropriate brake widths. On a Rustler 9, I think the Strive 14 in the Orange color would look sweet, or the Pivot in the Forza would add some flair.
I am looking to either put attack 14 or griffon 13 on a pair of rustler 10. Both binding seems really alike. Would you have recommandation about one over another?
They're very similar in performance, it's mostly a personal preference thing with how they feel. The heel piece of the Griffon feels SOLID. Some people love it, some prefer the easier click in of the Attack heel. The feeling the Griffon heel gives you when clicking in can be confidence-inspiring because it feels so strong and it's easy to visually see what it's doing with the single pivot. On the other hand, realistically the retention/release is about the same between them, so it's more of a perception than a reality.
Some skiers really like the low stand height of the Attack 14, and there's something be said about low center of gravity on a more freeride-focused ski like the Rustler. Griffon isn't like it's uncomfortable high stand height, but there is a slight difference there.
Hope that helps!
hybrid bindings pls
Thanks for the detailed video! what binding would you recommend for a sender free 110? (im 82kg advanced skier)
A blue Pivot 2 would be pretty sharp on that ski! 105 mm brake.
You could have just measured the heels that same way you measured toes.
I know the angle changes between boot size but knowing the toe and heel height can let people know if the binding they are buying and then have been skiing is a good choice.
Considering I have found as much a 8mm difference between toe and heel height(heel high), as well some blizzard skis being slight toe high and looks being on 1mm difference, these are huge changes that can be insurmountiable to people getting better skiing.
Id go so far to say that one of you constantly is in overall set up that is toe to low by 2/4mm. I get it, people can adapt(well kinda) but ideal setups, or as ideal as possible can help intermiedate though literal pro skier ski better.
Great review guys!
Just bought some Maverick 88 TI s and checking out bindings. Same as you guys I have always had a thing for the “Pivots” Will probably get the 15 teens, ( don’t need that din range but the toe piece is alloy and not plastic)I have a quick question regarding brake drag(95 on 88) - the brakes don’t stow up and away like some newer design bindings and does this create issues when carving. My days of dropping my hip on the piste when carving are well gone, but would like to know your views when you have time. Thanks from across the pond (UK)
Jeff and I (Bob) differ slightly in our opinions here. He seems to have no issue with a 95 brake on an 88, and has a Pivot 95 on his Mirus Cor at 87 mm underfoot. As much as I'd love to have put a blue Pivot 15 on a new Mantra 88, I just don't feel as good as when I'm on a Strive or a Jester with a 90 mm brake for these skis. The tucking is not only a mental hurdle for me, but I also find it to be physical--I personally feel that the drag matters and 100% wish they made an 85 mm brake or simply made the brakes tuck in nicer. I also think that for a Mantra 88 or Anomaly or Enforcer 89, having a binding with a longer mount zone or a higher stand height isn't the worst thing in the world.
Does the extra weight of the Pivot 15/18 provide any suspension benefits over the 12/14, I wonder? Is anything smoother in bad snow?
No, not really. The real benefit of the 15/18 toe is its seemingly infinite longevity. The one exception to that is I suppose the 12/14 toe would be slightly more susceptible to pre-release, but I emphasize slight, and it's arguably a perception thing more than it is a reality. I know at least for me, looking down and seeing the 15/18 toe does give me a lot of confidence.
For 70% all mountain, 30% park, what is better, Attack 11 LYT or Attack 11 GW? Which binding is better for what situation?
The Attack 11 has a beefier toe piece, and will likely hold up a bit better for park/all-mountain use.
Would you say skier weight has an impact on binding choice? I’m a bigger guy with rustler 10’s but tend to jib around and go off natural hits. I sit in my kitchen staring at my Attack 14’s vs Griffon 13’s and don’t know where to go.
Weight is a factor in determining your DIN, and your DIN is a factor in finding the right binding. Confidence matters, too. If you're a bigger skier who's putting torque and pressure on your skis, the Jester 16's metal wings and towers helps.
Great comparison. I’m looking at the Pivot 15 2s. I’m around an 8 or 8.5 DIN. Is that ok?
Yup!
Hey guys, I recently had a marker griffon 13 from 2023 mounted on my new skis and they feel really, really tight on the boot. Like they‘re just so short that it‘s super difficult to step into the binding. I double checked if they‘re adjusted correctly and by what it says about adjusting the heel piece of this binding they are set up right. But it just doesn‘t feel right like this, like it litterally scrapes off the top of my boot heel when I step in. What would you guys recommend? Like can I just open the lenght up a bit and it‘s still safe?
It's not terribly uncommon. You really have to push the heel back a bit to get correct forward pressure with Griffons (and other Royal Family) when you're clicking in. Definitely is more noticeable than on most brands. What's your DIN? I've had situations running a higher DIN where it can be tough and I experience at least a little bit of what you're experiencing. It might be worth double checking forward pressure and dialing it back a touch, but I would (of course) recommend having a tech take a look at them too to verify.
Have they been used a lot or are they still relatively new? Sometimes the mechanisms can dry out a little bit and it gets even tougher, but I don't expect that's the case here.
@@SkiEssentialsThanks for the answer. I’m kinda unsure, about what to do. Like if it’s gonna still be save on forward pressure if I open it up by about 5-7mm. Wild that this seems to be a common problem, I wish I‘d known beforehand.
I‘m a fairly light skier at 64kg with a a relatively short boot at 295mm. My Z is at a 6 right now, but I might adjust it depending on how hard I ski. The binding is fairly new, I‘d say about twenty days of use before me. When I put my boot in I do have to step in it with what feels like my whole weight and it does move back on the rail quite a bit before it can even close properly. No chance I could step back in the binding in a situation where I‘d loose a ski on track or even piste. Seems kinda odd for it to be intended that way by the company but checking in with the technician and looking at tutorials they all say, that that‘s how it‘s supposed to be set up on Markers. :-/
I watched this whole thing hoping you’d go through heel and toe height differences between bindings (often referred to as delta) as that is the MOST important thing for me. I cannot ski with my heels significantly higher than my toes and that information is SO HARD to find online despite being a quick and easy measurement by sellers. I started skiing during covid and almost quit immediately as the skis that were sold to me as a good beginner setup had a steep delta which feels horrid for me. Luckily I tried a different setup purely by chance and went from feeling out of control and miserable on greens to zipping happily down black bump runs in a few days with the right delta. I’d like to buy a new pair of skis this year but cannot buy from you guys as you don’t have this listed on your site and when I messaged your customer service on your website basically got an “uhhh, I don’t know/wont find out” response. This isn’t some niche preference that only bothers advanced skiers and is really a make or break for some people that you are loosing sales by neglecting.
For us, it can be a hard thing to talk about because different body types, skiing styles, etc will react differently to varying delta. Luckily, there are ways of customizing it to your own needs. I know lots of skiers who mount shims under their toe pieces to achieve what is the right delta for them. If we were to put a list together, would that be helpful? I find it almost impossible to sit in a video and say "this delta will be a benefit to this type of skier because of this reason." It's just not that black and white, at least it's not in my opinion. I'd be happy to take the most popular ~10-15 bindings and make a list of delta. Would that fulfill what you're looking for? Just the mm difference?
This is ~10 years old, but it would look similar: www.thepisteoffice.com/index.php/2013-09-09-17-07-34/ski-binding-delta-angles
Yes! I’m familiar with that list from the piste office and an updated one with just the mm difference between heel and toe for the popular alpine and touring bindings would be perfect and SO helpful! I totally agree that it’s impossible to say what delta would benefit what skier, but just saying that people may find they have personal preferences and here’s a reference for what else has that height ratio once you find your sweet spot would be so helpful.
I hope in the future ski instructors and shops are more aware that delta really affects some people, I started on the marker 10 TPs and they would have been solely responsible for me quitting skiing if I hadn’t tried a different setup that was lower in the heel and realized that I actually loved skiing when I felt like I could get my feet flat on the skis :)
For a relatively new skier, you have impressive knowledge of delta and its effects. Sometimes I worry that people would get a little too hung up on it, but I do think having the information available for those who are interested and knowledgable would be helpful. We'll work on putting something together and finding a place for it on our site. Thanks for the feedback!
@@SkiEssentials Binding delta is the most important binding characteristic, much more important than stand height. The exact optimal delta is person-specific, but, as a general rule, if the heel is too high, this puts skiers in the backseat.
I just bought the Marker Free 7 and had them mounted on my son's Head Kore Jr, and the resulting delta is 6mm heel high, which is ridiculous for such a small BSL (240 mm). For all of my skis, I use lifters to bring them to 2mm heel high, and will try to do the same for my son.
Ideally, the industry should have a standard delta across all bindings, be it flat (0mm), 1mm heel high, or 2mm heel high. Not sure if we will ever get there, but for now, it would be great if every manufacturer clearly stated the binding delta for every binding they produce.
Hello. I have a Rossignol Experience 88 Basalt that comes with a binding AXIUM 120. Could you tell me if this binding is compatible with following ski boots: Atomic Hawx Ultra, Salomon S/Pro Alpha, Lange Shadow, Nordica Promachine (all with grip walk soles). Thanks a lot for your help!
I don't think it'll work with any of those boots. If the binding does not indicate GW/GripWalk anywhere, it's not going to accommodate a GW boot.
For some reason you did not compare the Look NX 12? Just curious to its workhorse usability and range in skier / application?
We simply do not have or sell the NX 12. Will slot in nicely with the other 12 Din bindings here, very comparable to Strive 12.
Hey I would like to buy a new binding for my nordica unleashed 98. I'm deciding between, tyrolia attacks 14 retail or demo version. I would like to have the demo because of the option to change a mounting point a bit really easy, and also to be able to give my skis to my friends sometimes. BUT Im scared of losing the power im agressive, hard charging skiing as the demos have higher stance. Is there much difference between demos and the retail version, in terms of carving, hitting side hits, hard charging? Or should I go with marker griffon 13 demo which has lower stand height but is a bit heavier.
We ski on demo bindings pretty much all the time. They work great and do boost the leverage in a carved turn. That said, for more all-mountain and freeride applications, it creates a bit of a lag, and makes the ski a bit twitchy in softer snow.
Thank you Jeff and Bob. Great videos! I have a specific questions on ski boots length adjustability. I am considering switching to a smaller ski boot size, from 255mm to 245mm. Could you please let me know if all these alpine bindings can be adjusted to accommodate both boot sizes without the need for re-drilling? Thank you!
You need to check the adjustment ranges of the bindings. I'd say most could accommodate your needs but maybe not the Look Pivots. I know they improved the adjustment range but it's still low.
Generally most of the bindings here can move up to 20mm, but it also depends on where the ski was mounted initially. Also keep in mind, that even though it's a slight change, the toe will remain static, so you're also slightly changing the midsole point on the ski.
I have a Marker Kingpin 13 on my Völkl Mantra 102. I heared mixed things about the Kingpin. Most of the time i go skiing in a Skiresort on and off Pist, but never have i been on a skitour. Should i change the binding on my ski to a alpine binding, because i don't plan on going on a ski tour in the near future.
Yes you will be better off in an alpine binding on the Mantra 102. Marker Griffon is a great place to start, matching the 13 level release value. Keep the Kingpin and try to source a lighter ski that's better suited to touring, and then you'll have an awesome setup for both uphill and downhill! Curious, what boots are you using?
How varying are the deltas in these bindings. Are they moving at all to no delta or adjustable?
Not a ton of variance here overall. Pivots remain the flattest overall and Attacks seem to be on the steeper side as they have a lower toe height. It'd be interesting to see how and adjustable delta would fly in the binding world, although we have no knowledge if that's coming down the pipe.
Question: does it make sense to mount a Pivot 15 on a plate on a 88 wide ski in order have better leverage when carving ? I do not do park or ski backwards. Thanks :-)
Yes and no, mostly no. There's not a great plate option for Pivots these days. In theory, it's possible, but would require a good amount of creativity and customization. The plate is also kind of negating the benefits of a Pivot (low stand height, short drill pattern, natural flex underfoot). I personally would go a different route. You could do toe and heel risers, but again we're getting into some pretty customized territory here.
@@SkiEssentials Thanks.
Pivots don't make sense for carving skis in general. They have 0 ramp (great for freestyle, not great for driving your shovels) and the brakes don't fold up nearly as well as other bindings.
Just get a Strive and be done with it. I think a plate on that wide of a ski is kind of weird IMO. Usually plates are on race skis that are so narrow that booting out is a concern. Going for an 88 suggests some off trail application which is generally better served by having a low stand point.
I've skied most of the 13+ din bindings, Strive 16 is the clear winner for me. Fantastic build and feel, low weight, very user friendly, and lots of elastic travel. If you can afford them (or find a deal) that's the one to get!
On bindings that aren't in the video: any thoughts on the Attack LYT 12 vs the 14? It has the 14's heel with the LYT toe, I'm not sure who it's for. Is there anything new with the SPX 13 vs the 12? I'm assuming they just added a 1 to compete in the Griffon/Strive 14/Attack 14 market
It's very interesting how these companies position their bindings and swap/combine parts. Unless you look at them all at the same time, you'd really never know. It seems like Tyrolia is pushing that LYT toe in both retail and demo markets--I bet it's just an added push here to get more of the toe pieces out into the world. With the SPX, it does seem like they're moving to the teens to compete. The toe looks like the 12 toe to me. At $249 it also is very competitive price-wise.
At what point does a skiers size start becoming more of a factor vs their ski style?
Ie 5’10 160 lbs chill skier could ski bindings w 12 din max
Ie 6’10 260 chill skier would need a --?
Is there a pretty easy way to ballpark this relationship?
There are online charts where you can determine your DIN and find a good middle ground in a binding. Height, age, weight, boot sole length, and skier type all combine to create your release value.
@ thanks, I’ve checked those out and have a basic idea of what I’ll need. I will also demo a few different setups and see what feels best for my style.
Cheers!
Great stuff! What do you think of a protector on an enforcer 99 or 94 (or similar ski)? Would I notice the difference from a non-protector binding?
I ski the Protector 13 on Enforcer 104 Frees. Zero issues, I can’t say I can feel any difference and zero issues with early releases or anything like that. Big fan.
I think it'll work great. The ones we sell, and the ones in the video, come as a demo system so the stand height is high. On-trail it's got a lot of power and precision. Off-trail, the higher height can feel a bit twitchy.
Which binding is the highest off of the ski?
The Protector systems are the highest due to the system plate. For the flats, the Griffon/Jester bindings are the highest
do look pivot bindings really ski noticeably better?
I'm not sure if "better" is the right word, and certainly not for everyone. I find that a Pivot allows the ski to flex more naturally due to the shorter mount zone. With less of a dead spot underfoot, you can feel the suspension of the ski smooth things out a bit better. On-piste and in carved turns, I don't feel that there is much of an increase, it is more noticeable in bumps, trees, crud, chop, etc.
Is the Atomic/Salomon Warden in here somewhere? So confusing
Warden has morphed into the Strive for 2025. They also make the Stage series of bindings which is a level down from the Strive and where Warden was.
Would a strive 16 in 100mm or 115mm brake fit on a pair of 104 skis (Moment Countach)? Would love the purple strive…but may not work out.
Yes go with the 100mm brakes. You can just bend them a bit and they will easily fit over the 104's.
100 should be fine, worst case you'll need to ever so slightly bend the brakes on the 100. If you don't like that idea, SkiEssentials and Powder7 both have the purple 115 in stock right now.
Edit: Unrelated, but the Countach is a phenomenal ski, you'll love it.
Good choice, get the 100. It should fit without bending
Awesome thanks everyone!
100
What type of binding would you recommend to a pair of arcade 88 that will be mainly used for carving in prepared slopes.
(Im 95kg and advanced skiier)
I'd go with a Marker Jester 16 with 90 mm brake on that ski if possible.
I love the Strive, it's a great binding. However, the break widths feel really off. 90 / 100 / 115 leaves so much room for improvement. Putting a 115 break on a Rustler 10 / Ripstick 102 / Blaze 104 is .. doable, but feels kinda odd. I guess 2mm are always there (after all, it's 1mm on each side of the ski), you very likely can mount a Strive with a 100mm break on Rustler 10 or Ripstick 102, but you're on your own with that, as shops don't allow you to select that break width with these skis.
What's your take on a 115 break on a 102 ski?
I'd get the 100. They'll fit just fine.
@@SkiEssentials They'll do, but then i'll have to mount it myself which is a pain in the back without the drill pattern. I'm curious about your retailer pov and experience and if there are any downsides with a 115 break on a 102 ski, other than the odd feeling and a potential 'looseness' when carrying the skis.
@@patrion6028 Other than the overhang, there's no issues, but that's a pretty big issue with a 102 mm ski and a 115 mm brake. I find it hard to believe that a shop wouldn't mount a 100 Strive to a 102 ski, and I just called up our tech shop and he said there's nothing in the rule book that states they can't.
@@patrion6028 Why would you have to mount the 100 yourself? Shops will mount them the same as any other binding; the 100 brake will clear a 106~ ski without bending
Yikes. Last week, I had to decide on bindings before this came out. I've used Marker Griffons in the past, but this time, I went with Tyrolia Attack 14s. Now, I'm going to find out if I messed up. 😨
You're going to be just fine!
@@SkiEssentials Yeah. I saw that about 3/4 of the way through. 😏
I have a couple of pairs of Strive 12 and Squire 11 bindings, and they work great functionally, but they all have the same issue (though not all of them). After skiing for an hour or two, a squeaking sound starts to appear between the bindings and the skis, which is very annoying and drives me crazy. I asked staff at two different ski shops, but they couldn’t explain why this happens.
I really like the lightweight design of these two bindings, but I have switched to the Strive 14 because of the squeaking sound…do you know why this happened?…
I think the sound is from the heel piece
I think moving from the more plastic heel pieces of the 11 and 12 to the 14 will make a difference. Always start with a binding adjustment and a test with your boot at a shop by a certified binding tech. Cold weather and moving parts simply equate to squeaky noises--it could be as basic as that.
Be interested in on snow feel comparisons of STH2 16/ Strive 16 and Pivot 15? You mentioned the natural ski flex.. can you include swing weight, is that palpable.
Also, I personally love the STH2.. solid heel and excellent elasticity - always released when I needed and held when not. I think I feel the ski flex better with the STH2 toe.. wondering if you pick up much difference with the longer toe hole pattern of the Strive and cf. the pivot?
Also Also, ramp angle for more centre mounted pow skis.. can you tangibly feel the difference? Im assuming the flatter pivots help a more upright stance.
I own/owned all three, the Strive 16 is my favourite. The Pivot is noticeably heavier and it does make a difference, especially for popping. Strive 16 has it's weight concentrated under your toe and next to the ski, feels great. Haven't noticed a difference in flex but they are on different skis. I think I can feel the difference in ramp but they both feel good, Strive is perhaps a bit more natural feeling to me. Pivots are great for skiing centered, won't be an issue on the Strive but 0 ramp is ideal for that. The elastic travel in the Pivot heel has saved my ass before, so that's a plus
@ good insight. Thanks
I think that the performance of the Pivot, including swing weight and a more natural angle, are felt more in an off-trail and soft snow situation. The suspension of the ski is improved with the shorter mount zone even though you can feel a heftier toe and heel in Pivot. On-trail, I never felt the Pivot out-performed an STH or a Strive. The longer mount zone actually stiffens the flex of that area, delivering more consistent edge grip--think race plate, but on a much lower level.
@@SkiEssentials awesome, thanks.. can’t get that info from specs
Jeff could you source the new gripwalk afd / baseplate for old fks + pivot 18? Or is the toe piece actually different.
You can get the GW AFT aftermarket. Still holding on to Alpine soles on boots though!
Any recommendations for enforcer 89s, type 3/3+ skier at 82kg? I was looking at strive 14s but maybe 16s would be a better fit
The 16 is nice because of the burlier heel and brake system. If you can get a 16 in the Strive, I say go for it.
Jester broke on me after 4 seasons on park skis … on other pair I have rossignol fks 155 (look pivot) last maybe 7 seasons …. Before it was raced few seasons on super G skis …. These days it is only pivots I use and would use thanks to cast.
Hey guys, so I’m having trouble deciding between the marker duke and the pivot 15 with a cast system as a 90:10 alpine/touring setup. Mostly do high edge angle carving but definitely still ski around. Is the pivot a good option for carving? Would I be better off with a duke considering a higher stand height for more leverage, or would the uncompramised downhill performance of a pivot be better? They’re going on an arcade 88 for reference.
Binding aside, lets talk brakes for a second. The Pivot 95, in my mind, doesn't line up great with an 88 like this that's built for carving. The Duke, unfortunately comes with either a 100 or a 125. The 100's don't tuck in as nicely as the Griffon/Jester since the brake mechanism is different on Duke. Of these choices, I think the Pivot is a slightly better option.
@@SkiEssentialsin terms of a alpine binding with no compromise on the downhill would there be any other options other than something like the daymaker?
@@bensnyder8156 not that I can think of. Are you sure you want to tour on the Arcade 88? Understanding that not everyone can have multiple setups, but just want to make sure you're getting the proper use out of the skis and bindings. Daymaker sure is an option for occasional tours as it allows you to put whatever binding you want on the ski.
@@SkiEssentialsyea I’m aware they’re definitely heavy and not designed for it, but I really only care about the descent and if that means lugging something heavier on the up I don’t mind. If there was a touring ski that had a similar radius I would definitely consider it but I haven’t really found anything
Well done gentlemen. Thank you
Strive 12 uses warden 11 heel, strive 14 uses warden 13 heel and strive 16 uses the sth2 heel if I recall.
The 14 is a new design, you're correct on the other two
@ I figured I’d throw in if I recall ahaha. I can see now the strive 14 is unique
No, Strive 14 also has Warden 11 heel plate
STH2 MNC is bomb proof on sale and best option out in my opinion
Tried and true! I even re-mounted an OLD pair of Driver 997 Equipe from the 90's and they still use the same hole pattern so used the same jig.
"Candide skis Jesters." *Looks dead in the camera* "And he's better than you!" 😂😂😂
I’ve broken 2 pairs of Salomon sth, and 1 pair of jesters.
That said, 80% of all the skiing I’ve done has been on pivot 18s or 15s. Never a single issue, pre-release or non-release during a twisting fall.
I won’t ski on anything else, pivot 15/18 are the undisputed king imo.
They are heavy though. Prob great for a hard charger like yourself!
how would you describe Tyrolia AM 12 GW ? Is it as good as Tyrolia attack 13 or 11 ?
I just bought some. Haven't skied them yet. Very unusual in that they have vertical release in the toe and lateral release in the heel. A lot of tech for a modest price. Attack 13 is discontinued I think (now 14).
Looks like a good price point option vs. the Attack. The toe is narrower, and is more designed for on-piste skis--the big thing about the Attack 14 is the wider AFD for greater leverage on wider skis.
@@SkiEssentials I ski only groomers. Would it be a good option to put it on Wingman 82 ti for that?
@@mehtasun28 Yes, the flat 82 Ti will accept a Protector PR 11 or 13 just fine. If it's a system 82 Ti, you may need to alter course.
Yeah!
Buying the Pivot 2.0 asap like...
It's QUITE nice.
@@SkiEssentials I wish they would pack them better. Sometimes the Pivot paint arrives pre-scratched due to them clanging together in the box during shipping. That’s feedback for Look.
@@OB2Kenobithey’re just saving you the pain of making those first few scratches yourself lol
@@OB2Kenobii believe the saying is tools not jewels
@@SkiingIsBelieving859 I am with you, but when they pack them carelessly like garbage, it makes me wonder how well they’re actually manufactured. Packaging is one of the few things I can validate with the naked eye. I have no visibility into how they are made and tested, and I’m not reassured…
Hi guys, great video as always! Would the Protector PR 13 mounted on a track work well on a Ranger 96? Would the stack height be problematic? Alternately, I like the new Pivots but appreciate the safety offered by the Protector.
I think if you are just ripping groomers, the Protectors will work great. I've heard they aren't the best from an all mountain perspective because they release sideways too easily during off trail maneuvers. They do make an all mountain version with a slightly lower stack height.
Yup, works great.
If safety is high on your priority list, then it's probably worth going with the Protector here. For carving, the stack height is advantageous, but if you get in softer snow it can feel a bit twitchy.
@@SkiEssentialsSo far be it from me to disagree with you, but IMO as a regular consumer with limited knowledge of the binding market, you're not going to have a problem. It's not something I've ever thought about, and whilst maybe I could ski something that feels better if I tried a bunch back to back, I doubt most people would think about it and just get used to any perceived downsides. With other products I would feel differently about this and say by all means get the best, but this is effectively a totally different product to anything else on the market, so you can't really compare it to other bindings because they don't do what this does. So my opinion is that if protecting your knees is something you're concerned about, get them on whatever ski you ride and you're not going to have any issues with them.
How come you guys don’t include atomic/salomon stage bindings? My wife has a few pairs and they are a great lightweight cheaper alternative to the strive.
Simply, we do not have them or sell them. Certainly nothing wrong with the Stage and given a lighter weight and lower price point, it's a fantastic option for many, many skiers.
I'm still unclear why anyone would go from a 10 to 11 Din binding. Or even why you would buy a 14 over an 11. If your proper Din is hypothetically seven, (and that's based on some Advanced formula that you should not mess with) Why do you need to use a higher Din binding ? In theory a 10 or 11 should be more than you'll ever need. And why not just increase your D I N instead of buying a more heavyweight binding if you need more retention? I have a tack 11 and 14 I've never noticed a difference in release when they're both set to seven. I've taken some pretty nasty Falls. I don't really ski park, but I do lots of side hits and will drop anything from 3 to 7 ft. I've never had an issue, or seen a difference in releases.
However one season I did increase my d i to a 9 as an experiment..... my ski did not release when it should have in powder, and I tore my calf and knee. So I learned the hard way not to question the formula for d i n😂😂.
I can't figure out when I should be upgrading to a pivot or something heavy duty. It seems like it's only going to add weight to my setup and cost.
There's not too much on the mountain I haven't attempted with an attack 11😅.
I think the key word here that you use is "need." I feel like the SUV or Truck comparison is in play here. Most people don't need an SUV to get about their daily lives, but they prefer it or want it. Same can be said for a Pivot 18. You are correct, most people don't need a higher DIN binding, and if you're concerned about weight and cost, then an Attack 11 or a Squire is going to be just fine.
I cranked my DIN up in my early 20s because the bindings would release on moguls, sometimes. Fast forward 5 years and I blew out my ACL because my skis didn't release. Don't do it!!
Great advice! I think most of us have gone through that phase at some point...
Too much talking and not enough rock.