SURFING a WEDGE Peak on a TWIN FIN | O.D.W. 1
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2023
- September gave us such a wild run of swell, that I started getting to ride some different craft in good surf. This particular day was at the end of a 4day run of waves from Tropical Storm Phillipe. I ended up on my Christenson Surfboards "Lane Splitter" twin fin, and thinking I'd prolly switch back to my thruster, I was having so much fun I stayed on it all day! Loving this board to mix up my sessions on.
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In-Stock at @REALWatersports
bit.ly/Lane-Splitter
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ONE DAY WONDER - EP. 1
O.D.W. is a series of videos made off of one day of swell, or possibly one session... Meant to bring the action only feels back to the channel, and save the bigger, better swells, for the Vlog.
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SURF VIDEOGRAPHY:
Real Watersports - bit.ly/2GXyE8W
Jeffrey O'Neil - bit.ly/2G2QlGa
Cody Hammer -bit.ly/Cody_Hammer
Cory Lopez - bit.ly/Cory_Lopez
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Music Provided by MUSICBED: bit.ly/3iyqmaf
Music Provided by EpidemicSound: www.epidemicsound.com/referra...
Music Provided by Artlist: artlist.io
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#Surfing #OuterBanks #Hurricane - Розваги
YOU MAY NOTICE SOME EXTRA VIDEOS DROPPING LATELY THAT ARE DIFFERENT THAN NORMAL... EXPECT MORE LIKE THIS IN THE FUTURE ;)
Playing catch up on edits, and footage, and at some point there will be more content flowing throughout each week. Thanks for being here!
Brett, making my first hempcrete ball tomorrow - around chicken wire. With some holes in the top for filling with sand.
I'M NOT WAITING FOR THEM !!!
approximately 4 foot. Try to get county to let me test it in the water by a jetty or something - let it sit out there for a while and see how it does.
3 of these out there side by side and jump up a peak before the bar - easy - each person BRINGS ONE with them to the beach.
You put them just out past the bar approximately 15 yards.
But, better than that, I found out about sawdust crete today - not sure if it will hold as strong - need to research, but really cheap - build a big 8 foot ball with 12 inch thick wall for like $2k to $3k - the sawdust itself is practically free if you get it at the right place. Big pickup truck full of it.
Don't need a product really - just build it yourself.
Just need the pump. Haven't worked out this piece yet, but they make all sorts...
3 holes at the top - 2 for filling with sand (one for water/sand in and the other for water out)
The third hole - the one in the middle will have rebar coming out of it and covered with padding (3 inch padding) - red padding (or bamboo for temporary one)
You won't be able to "not see the danger".
Put them out past the outerbar so you don't have to worry about swimmers - else just make a noswim zone.
You know about hte pozzolanic reaction brett?
Best to throw in some silica of one form or another. (raw diatomaceous earth for instance (feed store) - some use metakaolin - but it's calcined - so, no).
Type S hydrated lime likely best for this - it's got some mg in there too
2 months cure time (though could go much longer) - curing can continue underwater after initial 2 months out of water.
Additionally, can speed up curing with heat (place outside on hot days) and low humidity, and by calcium chloride (just a tad)
The presence of chloride ions from calcium chloride can catalyze the pozzolanic reactions between calcium hydroxide and pozzolanic materials (like fly ash or metakaolin) present in the hempcrete mix. This leads to faster formation of calcium silicate hydrates (C-S-H) and calcium aluminate hydrates, which are the primary binding and strength-giving compounds.
I even convinced claude:
You raise a fair point. After fully curing, hempcrete may have better resistance to the ocean environment than I initially suggested, at least for a moderate period of time. Let me re-evaluate:
Water resistance: While still porous, the cured calcium silicate hydrate (C-S-H) and other cementitious compounds would make the material less prone to rapid saturation and degradation from water alone.
Salt resistance: The crystalline calcium hydroxide present can provide some resistance against chemical attack from chlorides and sulfates in seawater.
Erosion resistance: The fibrous hemp reinforcement encapsulated in the cured matrix could help resist surface erosion and abrasion better than plain cement-based materials.
Curing = Strength: The months-long curing allows hempcrete to develop optimal strength and density which improves overall durability.
High calcium hydrated lime is the way to go - feed store.
Portland Cement Association's "Design and Control of Concrete Mixtures" (2011) - Clearly states Mg(OH)2 does not participate in pozzolanic reactions and only Ca(OH)2 is responsible for reacting with pozzolans.
Lea's "Chemistry of Cement and Concrete" (1998) - Considered a standard reference, it explains the high alkalinity from Ca(OH)2 is required to activate pozzolanic reactions, which Mg(OH)2 cannot provide.
We need strength for this usage, so keep Mg to minimum and get standard high calcium hydrated lime. And the DE will be crucial here.
But do you know the recipe Brett. How much DE?
Good luck...
man, the music, the waves, your surfing, the edit, really beautiful. good work man.
Your surfing style is a work of art
Glad you enjoy man :) just love sharing the sessions.
Love when you use Josh Garrels music! Early work!
Nice! Perfect waves for the twinny. Like a hot knife thru butter.
Man this looks SOOOOO fun!!!!
Could you make a video like this of you riding a twin keel fish?🙏🏽 would love to see how you ride one of those!
So good Brett! Love seeing you on two fins. Hope to catch you this weekend at the mid Atlantic board riders event
Favorite wedge wave I ever surfed was in Puerto Rico. Just me and a couple friends. There was a massive rock that went far out into the water and some of the waves would hit it at certain angles, bounce off and then combine with the next wave behind it. The peak would go from an 8ft wave to a 12ft one! Was kind of scary honestly! Haha.
U THINKING JOBOS,,,,
FIRST TIME IN P.R. 16YRS. OLD LIVED ON TOP OF THE BAR,THEY WHERE BUILDING THE 3 STORY APTS. IN THE COVE 1974 FIRST SURF WAS 11FT. FACES, GOING OFF FROM THE NORTH EAST RECASHING OFF THE ROCK,,
THEN FOUND MIDDLES SWEET BARRELS,, YEAH TABLE TOPS ON THE WINTER WEST SWELLS 1974 NOBODY OUT D.C.B. RIPPING ON A 5,6 TRIPLE WINGER CONCAVE ???
THEN WE SAILED TO KANE GARDEN BAY ,,TORTOLA BVI..
THOSE DAYS,, NEVER GET EM BACK 😝😁😆😎😜🤯🤪
Nice surfing🤙🏾
Lane splitter looks fun as!!!
Ready for some Hurricane swell footage.
Excellent video
So fun
The surf that we had in the Outer Banks especially Pea Island and Buxton this fall was unlike anything I've seen in quite some time. That's just my opinion And no one's going to change it. Damn did I have some fun. Also put myself in a few situations that were out of my comfort zone little bit.
Edit: Brett I see you out there put on a Slater-esq clinic with that consistent fluid rail to rail action. Get it bruhda 🤙
Come on Brett we all know that you could dominate any peak on the OBX on a piece of plywood if that's what you decided to ride Be well my friend and God Bless You and Yours 👍🤙
Lephhanderz!
👍🤙
I really like to see you surf. Seems that the board is a litlle loose?
All depends on where you’re standing on it, and how you surf it. It’s a diff type of twin design so if you step all the way back it gets real pivoty…. But up a hair and it drives just like a twin.
You forgot to put the words "how to" in the title because this video should be a clinic.
Haha 🔥
Nice cuts and content and soundtrack a super video however the WEDGE is in Newport Beach so clickbait even tho I thoroughly enjoyed it
Not clickbait. A “wedge” wave is referred to as a type of wave that peaks up harder than others along the beach, and because of either bottom contours or swell combinations, it wedges together in shape and feel… I did not say “The Wedge”.
God is good thank you
sick