If you've done any repairs to the 6.0 that required removing the coolant you may just have air in the cooling system. Make sure you turn the heat on and take the cap off the degas bottle to purge any air in the system after you have fill it with coolant. Sometimes it takes several times of replacing and taking off the coolant cap to purge all the air out (you see it bubble in the degas bottle from the bottom where hose attaches). Try this before you spend thousands. Also make sure you don't have any small coolant leaks in the radiator or a leaking or bad water pump. Also make sure the fan clutch is operating properly before making any costly repairs. Replacing the radiator, water pump and fan clutched fixed my problem with the coolant leaking out of the degas cap. I was told I had blown head gasket even though I already have ARP head studs and replaced head gasket when studs were installed. Beware of BOGUS mechanics and repairs shops. ( The infamous Ford Stealer Ship) Coolant kit which includes the water pump and fan clutch are about $300.00 at Auto Zone. Life time warranty Radiator also about $300.00. Life time warranty Total for both was about $600.00 and only took about 6 hrs. Check out DieselTechRon videos on UA-cam. Hope this will help someone... Over and out :-)
kevin maxey I have a bullet proofed 6.0 with ARP head studs and when I drain coolant I always continue to purge even the day after just to be sure, having air in your truck is the worst thing in the world for this motor..
Gonna have to try this. Ive got sludge dripping from my exhaust that looks like it came from a catch can. Being an ambulance, removing the cab is no easy procedure. Id rather know first, than start firing the parts/labor cannon at it.
What's the name of the tool used in this video? To get the bubbles in the bottle. I've tried searching for one, but only finding the chemical leak testers.
Wish I would have found those before I pulled the injectors the second time lol. Do I put it back together and test or just replace/repair the egress cooler since I’m literally ext to it about to pull heads. It’s covered in oil and the egr smokes when starting cold. I have a small amount of milk in the driver Vc because the pcv was forcing it in the vs from the turbo
So I went camping this weekend and I decided to take the bumpy fire road back home instead of the hwy. Once I got into town I noticed my truck shaking a bit, no loss of power but would shake a bit while I waited for a light. I got home opened the hood and there was no coolant, truck didn't over heat or the needle move at all. I went to the auto store, but some coolant, one coolant bottle did nothing, took it all in and the reservoir still empty. No leaks started the engine up, starts right up but I am now getting some white smoke and the truck is shaking a bit and you can hear it from the tail pipe.
This sounds very much like EGR cooler failure and maybe even an injector failure. If the white smoke smells sweet like burning coolant, EGR/oil cooler would be the place to start. Check out links here for solutions: bulletproofdiesel.com/collections/ford-products?pf_t_engine=6.0L
how can you use this testing method with out modifying the degas bottle / coolant res with the nipple to attach the air line / hose? can you leave the top of the coolant bottle off and insert the hose directly into the top of the coolant bottle?
Which Toyota coolant, pink or red, does not eat the head gasket seal in a 1CD FTV Toyota Corolla d4d, 2003. UK. Thanks. My car has used red and is ok, but I am concerned about using the new pink coolant Should I continue using red after 131k miles.
That video scared the shit out of me !!! Oh god I'm afraid to do the test ! What are the reasons I would want to perform this test on my truck ??? Can you tell me what it means when you start your truck and white or grey smoke comes from the tail pipe ??? Thanks P.S. I'm a woman and this is my first diesel truck. 😊
I have a 2005 ford excursion with a 6.0 diesel. The coolant hose just below the degas bottle failed and I lost all coolant. Pulled over immediately when gauges went nuts. Luckily a guy in the parts department of a ford dealership lived a mile from where I broke down and brought the part to me on his way home. Replaced hose and coolant engine is running hot according to spec. Coolant at 214+ and oil temp 229-235. When I turn heat on full blast coolant temp comes down to 208ish and oil temp comes down to 217ish. God dam gremlins. I did the bubble test I’m getting no bubbles what so ever after running the engine for several hours. Coolant hose from top of radiator seems to be filled with air. I squeeze a couple of times and coolant level in degas chamber goes down a little. I’m thinking a bad thermostat. Am I barking up the wrong tree? One after thought, oil pressure gauge crashes when at idle, engine doesn’t hesitate and when I touch the throttle pressure gauge pops back up. PLEASE HELP.
Yes, the thermostat is a great place to start. It is possible that when the engine overheated, the thermostat was compromised. Here is a link to them on our website, or pick one up from your local Ford dealership.
In addition, the engine cooling fan should be engaging or locking up around 220 degrees coolant temp, so if you don't hear the fan (jet engine under the hood sound) you may want to have the fan clutch operation checked as well.
I replaced the water pump and while I was at it replaced the fan clutch. It is defiantly kicking in at 210 to 220. But temp is higher than I like. I’ll try the thermostat and get back to you.
@@BulletProofDiesel Replaced the Thermostat and has fixed my overheating problems. I'm thinking that was my initial problem that made the Y pipe under the degas bottle finely let loose then snowballed in to the successive issues Water pump gasket, hose to heater core................. Thanks for the info. 6.0 gremlins
While the bubble test may not be an absolute test procedure for head/head gasket vs EGR cooler failure, it is a good place to start. If there are no bubbles during the test. then we would move onto a question. What problem are you having with the truck/engine? What symptoms were you experiencing that led you to the bubble test?
@@BulletProofDieselI’ve got the same problem, working on an 05 that is losing coolant, no visible leaks, no white smoke except one small puff at startup, no oil in coolant or coolant in oil. Bubble test does the same thing as alsmith9102
@@BulletProofDiesel thank you trying to decide if engine is worth getting fix was about to send it to shop for low high pressure oil then this happened
Here's a new one for y'all. My 6.0 was running cooler for a month. I didn't think much of it since it wasnt' overheating. The temp guage was just down lower than it usually is. then all the sudden white smoke came out the exhaust. I thought the egr cooler blew so i started taking engine apart. Then i noticed what caused it all. The belt tensioner was locked up and belt was loose. Water pump must not have been pumping properly. Somehow it was showing a lower than normal temp on the dash. But it must of got hot in the egr cooler and blew it. I'm still working on it. I hope its not a head gasket. Would running with a loose belt have more probablilty of blowing egr cooler or head gasket? Why was temperture guage showing lower than normal?
You are right, this is a new one. The best bet at this point is to replace/upgrade the EGR cooler and engine oil cooler, reassemble and go from there. If the engine wasn't severely overheated, you may get away with not going into the heads/head gaskets.
I tried this test on my 6.0 with the engine warm at idle and revved up and I don't get any bubbles at all, just 1 small pea sized air bubble if I quickly return from 2,000 rpm to idle but the rest of the time just sitting there idling no air bubbles at all, or even revving it up to 2,000 rpm, again no air bubbles at all and I know I have a good connection cause I can see the level of the water in the bottle rise and fall when I rev it up and left off the throttle.
what are the symptoms of a bad oil cooler? I use scangaugeII and my coolant temp is always colder than my oil temps. Under load it has reached btwn 15-22 degrees but does not sustain those temps (Georgia heat, around 108* outside and a/c cranked up). Cruising at 65mph, my temps on average are around 7-9 degrees different. I have a 2006 F350 with the 6.0. 207k miles. everything is oem aside from the scangauage. I am trying to determine if I have a blown head gasket or bad oil cooler. the motor seems to have a power loss as well and cruising around, I randomly get an engine shake or vibration. I have clean coolant and oil. I sent my oil off to get tested and they did not find any coolant in my oil and I do not see any oil in my coolant. There are also no leaks. However, I have found dried coolant overspray around the di-gas bottle. I also replaced the cap as well prior (less than 600 miles ago). Any recommendations would be most appreciated.
If you are puking coolant you probably have an EGR or headgasket problem. If your deltas are that far apart, you probably have a blown oil cooler or its on its way out. I would bet on a blown egr/blown oil cooler.
Thanks. Mine will spray coolant out if under load and temps over 16 different. Does mine sound like head gasket and oil cooler starting to fail? My coolant does not have oil in it and my oil does not have coolant in it. Both fluids look good. My egr is deleted with a block out plate.
When egr cooler crack coolant is dumped out the exhaust or white smoke. Blow headgaskets is combustion gas in the cooling system (no white smoke). oil cooler failure is when oil is in the cooling system or plugged from lack of changing coolant, mixing different coolant, or adding tap water to the cooling system.
I read on plowsite that the oil cooler antifreeze can block passages, boiling coolant giving you bubbles as well. I think this is my problem with truck. Yes it blew bubbles when under load but motor was hot and could have been boiling coolant. I have no egr on my truck. I am not losing coolant.
Yes, antifreeze debris in the stock oil cooler can plug it up. Our oil cooler doesn't utilize coolant; it's air-to-oil and is mounted near the radiator.
What are the differences between it being these two OR JUST THE CAP???!!!!!???!?!?!? Need help please. I’m just a kid and I might be deep into my pockets. Someone help please. No smoke out of tailpipe. Just loosing lots and lots of coolant out of cap.
Ranjit when they lower the price on them I will 😉 I have a f250 but like chevy..when it comes to the Chevy 2500 i feel like they could have done more with it for that crazy price tag you have to pay
I' own 3 6.0s so far and I have never done much of anything , they are dump trucks mind you, is everyone doing regular maintenance? I plow with 2 of the 3 and one is my personal truck. 1 2006 king drw and 2 2005 xlt drw. Im well over the 180k mark on all and love the power , Duramax is truly weak for the money the 6.7 powerstroke has been proven to be the motor so far for all fords. Honestly 80% of the horror stories are tunned engines or just lack of maint...
Because the 6.0 is almost quarter the price even after doing a overhaul and sounds the absolute best and doesn't have Chinese eyes headlights hahaha. Dura Isuzu burns up hpop and injectors too and the interior falls apart
I like the music you play while your telling people their truck is totaled 😄😄😄
👍
🤣🤣🤣
If you've done any repairs to the 6.0 that required removing the coolant you may just have air in the cooling system. Make sure you turn the heat on and take the cap off the degas bottle to purge any air in the system after you have fill it with coolant. Sometimes it takes several times of replacing and taking off the coolant cap to purge all the air out (you see it bubble in the degas bottle from the bottom where hose attaches). Try this before you spend thousands. Also make sure you don't have any small coolant leaks in the radiator or a leaking or bad water pump. Also make sure the fan clutch is operating properly before making any costly repairs. Replacing the radiator, water pump and fan clutched fixed my problem with the coolant leaking out of the degas cap. I was told I had blown head gasket even though I already have ARP head studs and replaced head gasket when studs were installed. Beware of BOGUS mechanics and repairs shops. ( The infamous Ford Stealer Ship)
Coolant kit which includes the water pump and fan clutch are about $300.00 at Auto Zone. Life time warranty
Radiator also about $300.00. Life time warranty
Total for both was about $600.00 and only took about 6 hrs. Check out DieselTechRon videos on UA-cam. Hope this will help someone... Over and out :-)
kevin maxey I have a bullet proofed 6.0 with ARP head studs and when I drain coolant I always continue to purge even the day after just to be sure, having air in your truck is the worst thing in the world for this motor..
Gonna have to try this.
Ive got sludge dripping from my exhaust that looks like it came from a catch can.
Being an ambulance, removing the cab is no easy procedure.
Id rather know first, than start firing the parts/labor cannon at it.
Regards from Poland 🇵🇱 God bless America ❤️🇺🇸
What's the name of the tool used in this video? To get the bubbles in the bottle. I've tried searching for one, but only finding the chemical leak testers.
ok compa sounds very important knowledge before starting to remove parts.... gracias
Wish I would have found those before I pulled the injectors the second time lol.
Do I put it back together and test or just replace/repair the egress cooler since I’m literally ext to it about to pull heads.
It’s covered in oil and the egr smokes when starting cold.
I have a small amount of milk in the driver Vc because the pcv was forcing it in the vs from the turbo
So I went camping this weekend and I decided to take the bumpy fire road back home instead of the hwy. Once I got into town I noticed my truck shaking a bit, no loss of power but would shake a bit while I waited for a light. I got home opened the hood and there was no coolant, truck didn't over heat or the needle move at all. I went to the auto store, but some coolant, one coolant bottle did nothing, took it all in and the reservoir still empty. No leaks started the engine up, starts right up but I am now getting some white smoke and the truck is shaking a bit and you can hear it from the tail pipe.
This sounds very much like EGR cooler failure and maybe even an injector failure. If the white smoke smells sweet like burning coolant, EGR/oil cooler would be the place to start. Check out links here for solutions: bulletproofdiesel.com/collections/ford-products?pf_t_engine=6.0L
Thank you very much.
Water comes from oil drain plug after engine rebuild why?
Where do I get a cap to test it
So just so I'm clear.. ANY bubbles are bad either way correct?
how can you use this testing method with out modifying the degas bottle / coolant res with the nipple to attach the air line / hose? can you leave the top of the coolant bottle off and insert the hose directly into the top of the coolant bottle?
dlynes need some help setting my Roth Ira what does it mean with today's contribution for tax year 2017/2018 what does that mean?
@@marcolpz1711 , I would drill a hole in a spare cap, insert a brass barb into it and connect a hose to the barb like in the video.
Which Toyota coolant, pink or red, does not eat the head gasket seal in a 1CD FTV Toyota Corolla d4d, 2003. UK. Thanks. My car has used red and is ok, but I am concerned about using the new pink coolant
Should I continue using red after 131k miles.
That video scared the shit out of me !!! Oh god I'm afraid to do the test ! What are the reasons I would want to perform this test on my truck ??? Can you tell me what it means when you start your truck and white or grey smoke comes from the tail pipe ??? Thanks P.S. I'm a woman and this is my first diesel truck. 😊
So what indicates no failure?
So no bubbles… or…??
This same technique should work on a Cummins Isx15 also??
We do offer upgraded BulletProof EGR Coolers for the ISX variants. You can find them here.
bulletproofdiesel.com/collections/all/products/bulletproof-egr-cooler-cummins-isx-6700104
I have a 2005 ford excursion with a 6.0 diesel. The coolant hose just below the degas bottle failed and I lost all coolant. Pulled over immediately when gauges went nuts. Luckily a guy in the parts department of a ford dealership lived a mile from where I broke down and brought the part to me on his way home. Replaced hose and coolant engine is running hot according to spec. Coolant at 214+ and oil temp 229-235. When I turn heat on full blast coolant temp comes down to 208ish and oil temp comes down to 217ish. God dam gremlins. I did the bubble test I’m getting no bubbles what so ever after running the engine for several hours. Coolant hose from top of radiator seems to be filled with air. I squeeze a couple of times and coolant level in degas chamber goes down a little. I’m thinking a bad thermostat. Am I barking up the wrong tree? One after thought, oil pressure gauge crashes when at idle, engine doesn’t hesitate and when I touch the throttle pressure gauge pops back up. PLEASE HELP.
Yes, the thermostat is a great place to start. It is possible that when the engine overheated, the thermostat was compromised. Here is a link to them on our website, or pick one up from your local Ford dealership.
bulletproofdiesel.com/products/ford-6-0l-coolant-thermostat-6000046
In addition, the engine cooling fan should be engaging or locking up around 220 degrees coolant temp, so if you don't hear the fan (jet engine under the hood sound) you may want to have the fan clutch operation checked as well.
I replaced the water pump and while I was at it replaced the fan clutch. It is defiantly kicking in at 210 to 220. But temp is higher than I like. I’ll try the thermostat and get back to you.
@@BulletProofDiesel Replaced the Thermostat and has fixed my overheating problems. I'm thinking that was my initial problem that made the Y pipe under the degas bottle finely let loose then snowballed in to the successive issues Water pump gasket, hose to heater core................. Thanks for the info. 6.0 gremlins
What if I'm not getting any bubbles? Does that mean everything is good? No blown head gasket? No EGR problems?
While the bubble test may not be an absolute test procedure for head/head gasket vs EGR cooler failure, it is a good place to start. If there are no bubbles during the test. then we would move onto a question. What problem are you having with the truck/engine? What symptoms were you experiencing that led you to the bubble test?
@@BulletProofDieselI’ve got the same problem, working on an 05 that is losing coolant, no visible leaks, no white smoke except one small puff at startup, no oil in coolant or coolant in oil. Bubble test does the same thing as alsmith9102
good info
Filled my truck up with antifreeze its was really low and now i think its hydrolocked would that be head gasket or egr cooler
This will most likely be an EGR cooler failure
@@BulletProofDiesel thank you trying to decide if engine is worth getting fix was about to send it to shop for low high pressure oil then this happened
Here's a new one for y'all. My 6.0 was running cooler for a month. I didn't think much of it since it wasnt' overheating. The temp guage was just down lower than it usually is. then all the sudden white smoke came out the exhaust. I thought the egr cooler blew so i started taking engine apart. Then i noticed what caused it all. The belt tensioner was locked up and belt was loose. Water pump must not have been pumping properly. Somehow it was showing a lower than normal temp on the dash. But it must of got hot in the egr cooler and blew it. I'm still working on it. I hope its not a head gasket. Would running with a loose belt have more probablilty of blowing egr cooler or head gasket? Why was temperture guage showing lower than normal?
You are right, this is a new one. The best bet at this point is to replace/upgrade the EGR cooler and engine oil cooler, reassemble and go from there. If the engine wasn't severely overheated, you may get away with not going into the heads/head gaskets.
I tried this test on my 6.0 with the engine warm at idle and revved up and I don't get any bubbles at all, just 1 small pea sized air bubble if I quickly return from 2,000 rpm to idle but the rest of the time just sitting there idling no air bubbles at all, or even revving it up to 2,000 rpm, again no air bubbles at all and I know I have a good connection cause I can see the level of the water in the bottle rise and fall when I rev it up and left off the throttle.
Mine too...
what are the symptoms of a bad oil cooler? I use scangaugeII and my coolant temp is always colder than my oil temps. Under load it has reached btwn 15-22 degrees but does not sustain those temps (Georgia heat, around 108* outside and a/c cranked up). Cruising at 65mph, my temps on average are around 7-9 degrees different. I have a 2006 F350 with the 6.0. 207k miles. everything is oem aside from the scangauage. I am trying to determine if I have a blown head gasket or bad oil cooler.
the motor seems to have a power loss as well and cruising around, I randomly get an engine shake or vibration. I have clean coolant and oil. I sent my oil off to get tested and they did not find any coolant in my oil and I do not see any oil in my coolant. There are also no leaks. However, I have found dried coolant overspray around the di-gas bottle. I also replaced the cap as well prior (less than 600 miles ago).
Any recommendations would be most appreciated.
If you are puking coolant you probably have an EGR or headgasket problem. If your deltas are that far apart, you probably have a blown oil cooler or its on its way out. I would bet on a blown egr/blown oil cooler.
Thanks. Mine will spray coolant out if under load and temps over 16 different. Does mine sound like head gasket and oil cooler starting to fail? My coolant does not have oil in it and my oil does not have coolant in it. Both fluids look good. My egr is deleted with a block out plate.
When egr cooler crack coolant is dumped out the exhaust or white smoke. Blow headgaskets is combustion gas in the cooling system (no white smoke). oil cooler failure is when oil is in the cooling system or plugged from lack of changing coolant, mixing different coolant, or adding tap water to the cooling system.
Great video! Where in the U.S. did you find a Chieftan tank!?
Pretty sure we found it in Texas somewhere...
@@BulletProofDiesel Thwarted Canadian invasion I suspect. :D
Why do I still see P0401 with your egr on my early '04 6.0?
Give us a ring at 888-967-6653 and we will try to get to the bottom of it. The EGR cooler should not trigger any codes.
I read on plowsite that the oil cooler antifreeze can block passages, boiling coolant giving you bubbles as well. I think this is my problem with truck. Yes it blew bubbles when under load but motor was hot and could have been boiling coolant. I have no egr on my truck. I am not losing coolant.
Yes, antifreeze debris in the stock oil cooler can plug it up. Our oil cooler doesn't utilize coolant; it's air-to-oil and is mounted near the radiator.
Thank you good video👍🏼✌🏼
What are the differences between it being these two OR JUST THE CAP???!!!!!???!?!?!? Need help please. I’m just a kid and I might be deep into my pockets. Someone help please. No smoke out of tailpipe. Just loosing lots and lots of coolant out of cap.
Joe, give us a ring at 800-967-6653 - we'll narrow it down with a phone conversation and see if we can get this figured out.
BulletProofDiesel thank you, but I unloaded it back to the dealer I bought it from. You guys are great, thank.
I have same problem with my 04 powerstroke what happens with that’s please help me
Give us a ring at 888-967-6653 or email us at customerservice@bulletproofdiesel.com
BulletProofDiesel I’m loosing almost half gallon of coolant every other day and no visible leaks and white smoke in deep sticks
👍👍👍
With all the problems of the power stroke, why would you not buy a Duramax.?
Ranjit when they lower the price on them I will 😉 I have a f250 but like chevy..when it comes to the Chevy 2500 i feel like they could have done more with it for that crazy price tag you have to pay
I' own 3 6.0s so far and I have never done much of anything , they are dump trucks mind you, is everyone doing regular maintenance? I plow with 2 of the 3 and one is my personal truck. 1 2006 king drw and 2 2005 xlt drw. Im well over the 180k mark on all and love the power , Duramax is truly weak for the money the 6.7 powerstroke has been proven to be the motor so far for all fords. Honestly 80% of the horror stories are tunned engines or just lack of maint...
Because the 6.0 is almost quarter the price even after doing a overhaul and sounds the absolute best and doesn't have Chinese eyes headlights hahaha.
Dura Isuzu burns up hpop and injectors too and the interior falls apart
@@scottandbecky2013 Duramax's don't have high pressure oil pumps they have high pressure fuel pumps.
I’ve talked to diesel techs they say they see more blown head gaskets on duramax than 6.0s