As somebody who both uses various brands of powered speakers in live sound applications, as well as fixing them when they break, I just wanted to mention that the lots of screws / lots of silicone glue thing is intended to prevent vibration damage when playing at full volume, as well as hopefully protect from the inevitable tumbles and rough handling that happen to musical equipment on the road. Also, on this particular speaker, the back plate is forming part of the speaker enclosure, so ideally it should not flex or leak air when the speaker is used a high volume levels. The only way to achieve that is with lots of screws, or by molding a sealed chamber in the back where the amp module can live in peace. Alto chose "lots of screws". I was surprised, and pleased to see that the amp module uses discreet MOSFETs on such an incredibly cheap powered speaker. Most manufacturers in this price range use the TDA8953 / 8954 amp on a chip, which is complete chintz in my opinion. And of course it should be obvious, but I'll say it anyway... there is no way on this earth, or in any other universe that this is a 2000 watt amp. Based in NDA service manuals for similar products, we might expect something in the 200 watt RMS range. It appears from your video that they use different MOSFETs on each channel, so perhaps 30-50 watts RMS on the compression driver, and around 150 watts on the woofer. Usually, manufacturers use the same amp board across the different sizes of speakers (10", 12" & 15") in a series, and they program the DSP to deliver the amount of power appropriate for the size of the woofer. If the series has a subwoofer in it, some companies will choose to use the same MOSFETs & inductors on both channels, then either use a dual voice coil driver in the sub, or design the amp so it can be put in bridge mono mode to feed a single voice coil sub - the old QSC KW family does the latter. The compression drivers are nearly always the exact same part across all sizes in the series. Good video sir, always fun to see what is inside other brands I've never had a chance to crack open.
Those are Chinese watts. Their exact relation to the regular watts is unknown, as it is a classified and strictly protected state secret and a property of CCP, but the approximate conversion ratio, as figured out by the generations of engineers, ought to be about 10-15%. The half-bridge topology of the power supply, the size of the transformer and the two 470uF 180V caps in series suggest that the output power is indeed in the region of 200VA. Whether they use ICs or discrete MOSFETS, D-class amps are utter rubbish regardless.
@@noneofyerbeeswax8194 - "Whether they use ICs or discrete MOSFETS, D-class amps are utter rubbish regardless" - lol... perhaps you can pass that along to Powersoft... and D&B Audiotechnik... D&B might even be able to get their designs changed over whatever your personal preference is (I assume AB, but hey, maybe you're an H person) before the next EDC show comes up. Definitely. I'm sure they will.
U remind me of me grandad... He was a watch repairer. He would rather sometimes engineer a cog or a wheel for a grandfather clock than peddle his bike to buy one. The love and care he provided to the the item was only understandable to engineers like us alike. 😎👍
Fixing that was like stroking a dog through a letterbox 😁 I finished work an hour ago to watch you do what I do. Smashing some overtime in 🤟 Thanks for posting Mark
Hey Mark, as a test and repair tech that used to work for Citronic, (when they had their factory in Melksham in Wiltshire), I am finding your videos very reminiscent of the time I spent fixing audio gear. I now work in IT, but keep my hand in as a DJ (another reason I worked ay Citronic). I have a pair of TS115A's which had intermittently dropped output to the bass speakers. Inspired by your video, I ventured to have a go at fixing these & and... success! I have never worked on Class D stuff before so I was quite wary of doing it. Time to fix one cabinet was about 2 hours especially after trying to remember how it all went back together again (used the other speaker as an aid memoir!). It was dry joint s galore. Lead free solder is pants! Thanks for the videos, it is quite cathartic watching someone else do all the work!
Apart from the amazing knowledge and skills , Mark is also a master camera man and video editor. He moves camera positions so often so we can see. What’s going on, no static overhead shots for this man! I dread to think how long the editing takes. Mrs Mark must be very forgiving 😂
I HAVE A TS312 ....YOU CAN BE VERY USEFUL TO ME, AM ALWAYS POKING AROUND WITH DJ EQUIPMENT. ANOTHER GREAT REPAIR. YOU JUST EARNED ANOTHER SUBSCRIBER !!!
I think "PMPO" is what this spec is called: peak music power output (if I'm correct). But the continuous power, when putting a sine wave through (say 60 Hz for a woofer), that's real, but won't sell as well.
That's why active speakers should be advertised with their SPL and average power draw figures. None of that peak power BS! Specifying how much power is delivered into the driver -- be it peak or average -- has no meaning whatsoever.
nice vid, Active Speaker top boxes can only play hi & mids with some mid bass and not bass below 60hz,this were a power sub box come in to play. i have seen alot of powered speakers being use in the wrong way it was made to be use.
2000 Watts my ass :D - 200 Watts top. Great job, I like your smile, and enthusiasm, and yeah, looking at the crack around the tin soldering was suspicious at first sight.. Long ago I caught a tiny crack on the circuit line, noticed only with magnifying glass, and that was the source of the failure!
Exactly. I was curious about the title "2000W Active Speaker Repair". Never in my dreams has that thing 2000 W. Maybe for 10 msec? But not continuous. It's pure sales muck. That aside: he found the problem so easy - I am deeply impressed with the knowledge and experience of that man. I only found him yesterday and am binge watching since.
Not even close to 200w. I would be quite surprised if it just made 50w at 8 ohms 20-20k Hz. I asked Mark this before but to no avail. On the so called 5kw Crown. He is highly skilled and i believe could fix just about anything with current in it. I just have to get over the fact that he passes on the company lies like that when even a child knows better. Mark this is for you: I suggest calculating these numbers in the future for you viewers to compare to the utter bs from companies. That way it becomes interesting and you avoid to repeat other peoples obvious bs.
Hi Mark, everytime i see you get a shock in the titles it makes me laugh. I've repaired loads of speakers with the same issue. The last one was that the magnet came off of the bass driver, but the coil unbelievably was still intact. So i carefully bent the metal mounting lugs back into place then some strong resin to add extra strength, and yaaaay it worked. Keep up the great work m8. Paul😊
Hola amigo estupendo tu canal me gusta mucho gracias por tu excelente trabajo 👍 me encantaría mucho si activases en todos tus vídeos los subtitulos en todos los idiomas el mio nativo es el español, y si en lo posible un día pudieras hacer unos vídeos explicativos muy detallados de tus equipos con los que reparas ,y algo más jjj de la serie de protección , y las cargas resistiva, con todo el esquema de construcción gracias y un fuerte abrazo
The beauty about Class D is that you can put a DSP into the control loop and correct the signals, you can also have your cross over directly in the digital domain.
Gotta love an easy fix :) I bought a 1u power amp a couple months back, Its only fault was a blown main fuse... I originally assumed a short within the amp, to cause the blown fuse, But to this day, Running flawless on a new fuse... So must have been a power spike or something... Either way.... Loved an easy fix :D
I work in a DJ shop on repairs, it's got to the point where we won't even take Alto stuff in for repair any more. Don't need the headache of fixing it, only for the customer to bring it back a month later with another fault! They're not a bad sounding speaker, just not very reliable it seems. And 2000 Watt? Nearer 200 than 2000 I'd say, don't know how these Chinese manufacturers get away with such bare-faced lies on their specs...
I have been repairing domestic and professional audio for 45+ years, and I won't touch ANY of this modern china junk. It's just not worth my time or my reputation. The boards are a nightmare to work on, the copper tracks lift off if you even look at them and getting replacement components (if you can even work out what they are) isn't easy or even possible in some instances. China gets away with making rubbish and telling lies because people keep on buying their junk. If people boycotted it and refused to buy it, there would be no market and hopefully they'd stop making it. Also there is no way to stop china telling lies on their products - who are you going to complain to?
Alto is part of the Inmusic group in the USA. Designed in the USA and built in the orient. I agree that built in China is not a great label to have. That is why Ashdown’s top range tube bass amplifiers manufacture was returned to the UK, for better quality control. Japan, South Korea and Indonesia seem to be good for high quality instrument manufacture, so I would hazard a guess that electronic manufacture might well be if a similar high standard. It appears that power supplies made in China often suffer from parts being removed from the build AFTER attaining CE certification for the design in order to cut build costs (they remove RF filtering components to save money). The result is RF noisy psu’s which interfere with radio receivers and pollute the radio spectrum. They are a bloody menace.
Good that you fixed it. What surprised me is that you put all those screws back together before you tested it. Why? I would think for a low output test it should work without the cooling elements. And if there are another problem then you wouldn't have to do all the screws again.
You'd think they would cushion those pcbs better to prevent that kind of damage! BTW, when I have something like that where I know it's a common point of failure, I'll sometimes put some redundancy in it, like a bodge wire from the solder joint to a nearby trace, in case it fails again.
I've got a duff Dali E-12F subwoofer (known for problems with the amplifier board) so you've got me wondering now if it could be a problem with dry joints!
Hey Mark, nice repair, just a little info about the tongs you use to snip off the ends of the cable ties. I used to use the same Knipex ones till one day I had to do an installation and when cutting into a piece of plastic, one side of the tongs broke off and flew straight into my eye, have been on disability since with no sign of it ever improving. So just a heads up, beware of those tongs!
What a horrible job to get in. This has put me off ever opening the 5 Kv2 EX10 active speakers I have, they'll be on thier way to you! You mention the voltage in the caps, for folk who don't know it would be an idea to explain and discharge safely.
Love your channel, Mark. Whats the Blue material you are using for your work surface? I have a black Anti Static material, which was a nice idea, but heat sink compound makes a hell of a mess on the black. Ive got to change it for something that can be cleaned easier!!
I'm just waiting for the day when a simple frequency sweep hits a YT content match. Satisfying that it was a relatively simple fix, though. Gosh, I'd get lost after the covers came off. I guess after you fix a few hundred things you learn what to look for.
Nice job Mark, reminds me of a car stereo I fixed for a friend with the exact same problem. Didn't have a lick of any kind of adhesive on it though. Your one was covered in it and still failed. Do you think it's down to thermal cycles in your case, that's a nice lump of copper!
I am guessing before you tore the Amp all apart you did check to see if the Speaker was Blown Right ? That would be mud in your face if you tore the amp all apart and it turned out to be a Blown speaker Huh ? That is why I teach my guys to ALWAYS check to see if the Driver on the horn or the Speaker is Blown first . Enjoy your Video's ..
hello mark been watching your channel for quite a bit now you are very knowledgeable ...do you think that amplifier is 2000 watts ...true 2000 watts ???? ..i have yamaha dxr series powered speakers and dont go no where near 2000 watts ..alto ?
ill also teach you a small simple trick to get the amp panels off the speaker, i use a short XLR that goes between an input and out put, (its filled internally with hot glue or resin to act as a handle, and a firm tug gets them out
Hi Mark, I tried to fix my AKAI Amp after it getting wet and it probably only had a minor fault but in the process I didn't recognize the drain of the transistors were connected to the metal heatsink on them. So it came like it had to and when taking out the board, I touched the heatsink with the metal thingy and it made a small smark between heatsink and transistor (seems like caps weren't drained). The power fuse ( 2.5A on the other side of the board) blew immediately. What do you think I should do? Is it possible that only the fuse blew or should I look for other faults on the board?
I have all Alto speakers, which have done me right for years. 2000w is peak, of course. But they are extremely loud, clean and efficient. The problem I'm having is not with my mains, but one of my TS212s subwoofers. I've have them for 6-7 years, so they've served me well, until one completely died. Won't power on. Tried replacing fuse, but no luck. Not sure it this would be a similar fix, or something else entirely. I'm no electrician. Wondering if this might fix the problem, or something else entirely.
Hi Mark, Some 30 years ago I obtained a circuit to do a simple modfification to remotely control a Technics 1210 Mk2 turntable with three wires conected to the PCB and the audio mixer, unfortuneatly I have mislaied the info and it is no longer any referance to it on the internet, are you able to suggest a simple mod. I really enjoy your repair videos keep up the good work
Features Redesigned transducers for more efficient performance Class-D bi-amplification with 1,000 peak output 10" low-frequency driver with 2.5" high-temperature voice coil 1.4" high-frequency driver with neodymium magnet Compact, lightweight design for increased portability ($299.00)
Pop a PTC thermistor on the tweeter input. Would have to work out ac voltage near peek but it will heat up and increase resistance protecting tweeter driver from over powering.wont stop square waves though???
whats the song at the begining? Sounds like a rendition of take me out to the ball game I want to know the name of that piece Super work on the skeaker too thanks was fun to see whats inside an alto speaker. I am getting one soon. was there polyfill inside?
Where are u based ? I’ve a dsr 115 with protection light on . Been told need a new amp module but surely will be one component that needs sorting🤷🏻♂️any response will be really appreciated.
Are the silicone pads under those devices not very good? You shouldn't need thermal compound AND silicone pads. Usually it's one or the other. The whole point of silicone pads is to eliminate the need for thermal compound.
Where are you based I've got a qtx 15a active speaker It works with low volume but as soon as i Turn it up, it sounds really distorted Being told it's the amplifier
Have you measured real power of the amps? I really dont believe that it has even 1000W in total. Maybe closer to 500W. But dont have such speaker so cannot do that.
Based on the board it looks like there might be IRS2092 chips, with capacitors rated at 63V and even with 4ohm speaker it can take max 300W per woofer LOL
Has anyone ever got a schematic for an Alto product? I have a little ZMX122FX mixer that I'm sure just has a little power supply problem, but I can't even get a block diagram from them much less a schematic. They are very unhelpful.
As somebody who both uses various brands of powered speakers in live sound applications, as well as fixing them when they break, I just wanted to mention that the lots of screws / lots of silicone glue thing is intended to prevent vibration damage when playing at full volume, as well as hopefully protect from the inevitable tumbles and rough handling that happen to musical equipment on the road. Also, on this particular speaker, the back plate is forming part of the speaker enclosure, so ideally it should not flex or leak air when the speaker is used a high volume levels. The only way to achieve that is with lots of screws, or by molding a sealed chamber in the back where the amp module can live in peace. Alto chose "lots of screws".
I was surprised, and pleased to see that the amp module uses discreet MOSFETs on such an incredibly cheap powered speaker. Most manufacturers in this price range use the TDA8953 / 8954 amp on a chip, which is complete chintz in my opinion. And of course it should be obvious, but I'll say it anyway... there is no way on this earth, or in any other universe that this is a 2000 watt amp. Based in NDA service manuals for similar products, we might expect something in the 200 watt RMS range. It appears from your video that they use different MOSFETs on each channel, so perhaps 30-50 watts RMS on the compression driver, and around 150 watts on the woofer. Usually, manufacturers use the same amp board across the different sizes of speakers (10", 12" & 15") in a series, and they program the DSP to deliver the amount of power appropriate for the size of the woofer. If the series has a subwoofer in it, some companies will choose to use the same MOSFETs & inductors on both channels, then either use a dual voice coil driver in the sub, or design the amp so it can be put in bridge mono mode to feed a single voice coil sub - the old QSC KW family does the latter. The compression drivers are nearly always the exact same part across all sizes in the series. Good video sir, always fun to see what is inside other brands I've never had a chance to crack open.
Those are Chinese watts. Their exact relation to the regular watts is unknown, as it is a classified and strictly protected state secret and a property of CCP, but the approximate conversion ratio, as figured out by the generations of engineers, ought to be about 10-15%.
The half-bridge topology of the power supply, the size of the transformer and the two 470uF 180V caps in series suggest that the output power is indeed in the region of 200VA.
Whether they use ICs or discrete MOSFETS, D-class amps are utter rubbish regardless.
@@noneofyerbeeswax8194 - "Whether they use ICs or discrete MOSFETS, D-class amps are utter rubbish regardless" - lol... perhaps you can pass that along to Powersoft... and D&B Audiotechnik... D&B might even be able to get their designs changed over whatever your personal preference is (I assume AB, but hey, maybe you're an H person) before the next EDC show comes up. Definitely. I'm sure they will.
Thanks for passing on you experience and understanding of this, it helps people like me😊
Why at 76 years old do i find myself waching your vidios,Amswer you cheer me up!!! good luck.
Same here just a little younger than you.
His good nature comes thru in the videos👍🙂
U remind me of me grandad... He was a watch repairer. He would rather sometimes engineer a cog or a wheel for a grandfather clock than peddle his bike to buy one.
The love and care he provided to the the item was only understandable to engineers like us alike. 😎👍
Fixing that was like stroking a dog through a letterbox 😁
I finished work an hour ago to watch you do what I do. Smashing some overtime in 🤟
Thanks for posting Mark
Hey Mark, as a test and repair tech that used to work for Citronic, (when they had their factory in Melksham in Wiltshire), I am finding your videos very reminiscent of the time I spent fixing audio gear. I now work in IT, but keep my hand in as a DJ (another reason I worked ay Citronic). I have a pair of TS115A's which had intermittently dropped output to the bass speakers. Inspired by your video, I ventured to have a go at fixing these & and... success! I have never worked on Class D stuff before so I was quite wary of doing it. Time to fix one cabinet was about 2 hours especially after trying to remember how it all went back together again (used the other speaker as an aid memoir!). It was dry joint s galore. Lead free solder is pants! Thanks for the videos, it is quite cathartic watching someone else do all the work!
What a likeable and pleasant guy!
Watched a few of these now this guy is a genius 👏 keep up the great work ...
I'm picking up knowledge and understanding with every video you make and you're a good egg to boot so happy days👍🙂
I feel the palette knife spreading of the heat sink compound is not only a good idea but a great tool for the job.
Mark thanks for bringing us along. Best wishes.
Apart from the amazing knowledge and skills , Mark is also a master camera man and video editor. He moves camera positions so often so we can see. What’s going on, no static overhead shots for this man! I dread to think how long the editing takes. Mrs Mark must be very forgiving 😂
I HAVE A TS312 ....YOU CAN BE VERY USEFUL TO ME, AM ALWAYS POKING AROUND WITH DJ EQUIPMENT. ANOTHER GREAT REPAIR. YOU JUST EARNED ANOTHER SUBSCRIBER !!!
Great content radiocruncher recommended your channel and it been great.
I load tested one of those and it only made 245w rms. 2000w a bit of a dream. Spiked at 1805w at 1khz.
... and for the better, imagine what that poor 10" woofer would do, if subjected to currents anywhere near the official figures.
PA speakers are sadly often marketed using the peak output rather that the RMS output. Quite a slimy industry in that regard.
I think "PMPO" is what this spec is called: peak music power output (if I'm correct). But the continuous power, when putting a sine wave through (say 60 Hz for a woofer), that's real, but won't sell as well.
These manufacturers do Try to kid on with over the top figures.. at least qsc powered speakers are pretty close to their ratings.
That's why active speakers should be advertised with their SPL and average power draw figures. None of that peak power BS!
Specifying how much power is delivered into the driver -- be it peak or average -- has no meaning whatsoever.
I always give big inductor legs a tug, on numerous occasions I've had them snap Within the board out of sight! thanks for a great clip, as always!
nice vid, Active Speaker top boxes can only play hi & mids with some mid bass and not bass below 60hz,this were a power sub box come in to play. i have seen alot of powered speakers being use in the wrong way it was made to be use.
2000 Watts my ass :D - 200 Watts top.
Great job, I like your smile, and enthusiasm, and yeah, looking at the crack around the tin soldering was suspicious at first sight.. Long ago I caught a tiny crack on the circuit line, noticed only with magnifying glass, and that was the source of the failure!
Exactly. I was curious about the title "2000W Active Speaker Repair". Never in my dreams has that thing 2000 W. Maybe for 10 msec? But not continuous. It's pure sales muck.
That aside: he found the problem so easy - I am deeply impressed with the knowledge and experience of that man. I only found him yesterday and am binge watching since.
Maybe 50 watts in the scene..., that mini power supply gives hope for that.
Not even close to 200w. I would be quite surprised if it just made 50w at 8 ohms 20-20k Hz. I asked Mark this before but to no avail. On the so called 5kw Crown. He is highly skilled and i believe could fix just about anything with current in it. I just have to get over the fact that he passes on the company lies like that when even a child knows better. Mark this is for you: I suggest calculating these numbers in the future for you viewers to compare to the utter bs from companies. That way it becomes interesting and you avoid to repeat other peoples obvious bs.
He knows that even a child knows better. These videos are made for technical people that understand that’s a bs figure.
Not to used out side of a Bedroom. Or this is what you will suffer every time. Great Video again Mark, Keep 'Em coming.
OMG! This actually helped! Alto TS310 is actually Headrush frfr 112. Same company for sure. Thank you!
Amazing how lucky you are to have so many fixes to be a simple cold solder joint. I was rarely that lucky.
Hello mate Im John great videos marra love them keep up the good work
Hi Mark, everytime i see you get a shock in the titles it makes me laugh. I've repaired loads of speakers with the same issue. The last one was that the magnet came off of the bass driver, but the coil unbelievably was still intact. So i carefully bent the metal mounting lugs back into place then some strong resin to add extra strength, and yaaaay it worked. Keep up the great work m8. Paul😊
Hola amigo estupendo tu canal me gusta mucho gracias por tu excelente trabajo 👍 me encantaría mucho si activases en todos tus vídeos los subtitulos en todos los idiomas el mio nativo es el español, y si en lo posible un día pudieras hacer unos vídeos explicativos muy detallados de tus equipos con los que reparas ,y algo más jjj de la serie de protección , y las cargas resistiva, con todo el esquema de construcción gracias y un fuerte abrazo
The beauty about Class D is that you can put a DSP into the control loop and correct the signals, you can also have your cross over directly in the digital domain.
Gotta love an easy fix :)
I bought a 1u power amp a couple months back, Its only fault was a blown main fuse...
I originally assumed a short within the amp, to cause the blown fuse, But to this day, Running flawless on a new fuse... So must have been a power spike or something...
Either way.... Loved an easy fix :D
sweet what amp is it?
ADORO SEUS VÍDEOS...VOCÊ MUITO INTELIGENTE..E DIVERTIDO...UM ÓTIMO PROFISSIONAL...GRATO..AMIGO....
I work in a DJ shop on repairs, it's got to the point where we won't even take Alto stuff in for repair any more. Don't need the headache of fixing it, only for the customer to bring it back a month later with another fault! They're not a bad sounding speaker, just not very reliable it seems. And 2000 Watt? Nearer 200 than 2000 I'd say, don't know how these Chinese manufacturers get away with such bare-faced lies on their specs...
I have been repairing domestic and professional audio for 45+ years, and I won't touch ANY of this modern china junk. It's just not worth my time or my reputation. The boards are a nightmare to work on, the copper tracks lift off if you even look at them and getting replacement components (if you can even work out what they are) isn't easy or even possible in some instances. China gets away with making rubbish and telling lies because people keep on buying their junk. If people boycotted it and refused to buy it, there would be no market and hopefully they'd stop making it. Also there is no way to stop china telling lies on their products - who are you going to complain to?
Alto is part of the Inmusic group in the USA. Designed in the USA and built in the orient. I agree that built in China is not a great label to have. That is why Ashdown’s top range tube bass amplifiers manufacture was returned to the UK, for better quality control. Japan, South Korea and Indonesia seem to be good for high quality instrument manufacture, so I would hazard a guess that electronic manufacture might well be if a similar high standard. It appears that power supplies made in China often suffer from parts being removed from the build AFTER attaining CE certification for the design in order to cut build costs (they remove RF filtering components to save money). The result is RF noisy psu’s which interfere with radio receivers and pollute the radio spectrum. They are a bloody menace.
I enjoyed. THanks. ! from Northern California ~
excellent video, thank you
Mark your the man....sooooooo clever!!
Love the smiley face well done !
Good that you fixed it. What surprised me is that you put all those screws back together before you tested it. Why? I would think for a low output test it should work without the cooling elements. And if there are another problem then you wouldn't have to do all the screws again.
Thank you for posting 👍👍
That song you played is a banger
You'd think they would cushion those pcbs better to prevent that kind of damage!
BTW, when I have something like that where I know it's a common point of failure, I'll sometimes put some redundancy in it, like a bodge wire from the solder joint to a nearby trace, in case it fails again.
Good idea, back up fail safe.
Brilliant job - thanks
You are so funny! Thanks for your videos!!
Nice one Mark
I've got a duff Dali E-12F subwoofer (known for problems with the amplifier board) so you've got me wondering now if it could be a problem with dry joints!
Proper job again, shame that we can already tell what will pop next on these - the chinesium caps!
Hey Mark, nice repair, just a little info about the tongs you use to snip off the ends of the cable ties. I used to use the same Knipex ones till one day I had to do an installation and when cutting into a piece of plastic, one side of the tongs broke off and flew straight into my eye, have been on disability since with no sign of it ever improving. So just a heads up, beware of those tongs!
That’s such bad luck. Sometimes I’m glad I wear glasses.
Good job!
What a horrible job to get in. This has put me off ever opening the 5 Kv2 EX10 active speakers I have, they'll be on thier way to you!
You mention the voltage in the caps, for folk who don't know it would be an idea to explain and discharge safely.
What a mess! Well done.
Love your channel, Mark. Whats the Blue material you are using for your work surface? I have a black Anti Static material, which was a nice idea, but heat sink compound makes a hell of a mess on the black. Ive got
to change it for something that can be cleaned easier!!
I'm just waiting for the day when a simple frequency sweep hits a YT content match. Satisfying that it was a relatively simple fix, though. Gosh, I'd get lost after the covers came off. I guess after you fix a few hundred things you learn what to look for.
Love speakers like this "power consumption 800w" ....yet its somehow a 2kw speaker.
Mark which soldering iron do you use ? great vids 👍👍
Nice job Mark, reminds me of a car stereo I fixed for a friend with the exact same problem. Didn't have a lick of any kind of adhesive on it though. Your one was covered in it and still failed. Do you think it's down to thermal cycles in your case, that's a nice lump of copper!
Good point, makes sense, usually movement breaks the whole solder pad from pcb, or fatigues the coil where it joins. not that I've had much experience
As you said, more work to get to the issue than fixing it. Such a simple issue as well.
Sir your smile is so pretty love your video
I am guessing before you tore the Amp all apart you did check to see if the Speaker was Blown Right ? That would be mud in your face if you tore the amp all apart and it turned out to be a Blown speaker Huh ? That is why I teach my guys to ALWAYS check to see if the Driver on the horn or the Speaker is Blown first . Enjoy your Video's ..
hello mark been watching your channel for quite a bit now you are very knowledgeable ...do you think that amplifier is 2000 watts ...true 2000 watts ???? ..i have yamaha dxr series powered speakers and dont go no where near 2000 watts ..alto ?
Electronic specialist.youre great mend it mark
Dont mind pal ...but you are looking like young Winston Churchill ❤😂😂😂
Nice vid, love the skillful repairs. But this amp, what an aweful thing. Can't expect any decent sound out of it even if it works like intended.
Easy fix! Can't imagine these are anywhere near 2000Watts
ill also teach you a small simple trick to get the amp panels off the speaker, i use a short XLR that goes between an input and out put, (its filled internally with hot glue or resin to act as a handle, and a firm tug gets them out
Hi Mark, I tried to fix my AKAI Amp after it getting wet and it probably only had a minor fault but in the process I didn't recognize the drain of the transistors were connected to the metal heatsink on them. So it came like it had to and when taking out the board, I touched the heatsink with the metal thingy and it made a small smark between heatsink and transistor (seems like caps weren't drained). The power fuse ( 2.5A on the other side of the board) blew immediately. What do you think I should do? Is it possible that only the fuse blew or should I look for other faults on the board?
Hi Mark, do you mind telling me what soldering iron you use , mine is so crap , yours looks epic
چقدر از خنده هات خوشم میاد 👍😍❤️😍😍👍👍👍😍😍😍😂😂
I have all Alto speakers, which have done me right for years. 2000w is peak, of course. But they are extremely loud, clean and efficient. The problem I'm having is not with my mains, but one of my TS212s subwoofers. I've have them for 6-7 years, so they've served me well, until one completely died. Won't power on. Tried replacing fuse, but no luck. Not sure it this would be a similar fix, or something else entirely. I'm no electrician. Wondering if this might fix the problem, or something else entirely.
For once, I think we could see the cracked solder joint better than you could. It was so clear it could have been magnified.
Any chance you’ve had a look at any TS412/415’s?
Can’t seem to find anybody doing a tear down or similar to see what the guts of it is like…
Hi Mark, Some 30 years ago I obtained a circuit to do a simple modfification to remotely control a Technics 1210 Mk2 turntable with three wires conected to the PCB and the audio mixer, unfortuneatly I have mislaied the info and it is no longer any referance to it on the internet, are you able to suggest a simple mod. I really enjoy your repair videos keep up the good work
Features
Redesigned transducers for more efficient performance
Class-D bi-amplification with 1,000 peak output
10" low-frequency driver with 2.5" high-temperature voice coil
1.4" high-frequency driver with neodymium magnet
Compact, lightweight design for increased portability ($299.00)
Mark, at what temperature do you usually keep your soldering iron?
Pop a PTC thermistor on the tweeter input. Would have to work out ac voltage near peek but it will heat up and increase resistance protecting tweeter driver from over powering.wont stop square waves though???
10w quartz iodine bulb works fine. That's why Bose had the 20-200w rating.
whats the song at the begining?
Sounds like a rendition of take me out to the ball game I want to know the name of that piece
Super work on the skeaker too thanks was fun to see whats inside an alto speaker.
I am getting one soon. was there polyfill inside?
Thousend Screws :)
Good Work
For information, can you please advise what make, model and tip style you use? 😁
It’s a Metcal MX5000 soldering station. I like the 3.5mm chisel tip. I use it for everything!
师傅是英国的吗？技术真好。
what are you using for your signal gen?
I have same brand and the model is ts315.. ..but i have a problem of my tweeter is not working properly! its working but you can't heard louder!!
You pull things apart by the plug NOT the cable.
How much do you charge for a repair like this?
My powered speaker turns on..but when i put the volume up..the music sounds scratchy and starts cutting out..also no sound coming out of ny subwoofer
Where are u based ? I’ve a dsr 115 with protection light on . Been told need a new amp module but surely will be one component that needs sorting🤷🏻♂️any response will be really appreciated.
I wonder why Mark did not put thread lock back on the amp chassis fixing screws, given his comments about the bass vibrating everything.
Skillz
Are the silicone pads under those devices not very good? You shouldn't need thermal compound AND silicone pads. Usually it's one or the other. The whole point of silicone pads is to eliminate the need for thermal compound.
I only had the power switch fail on mine i have 2x ts112A top and 2xts112sub and a alto live 1604 PA desk :) i only use it for halloween and party.s
Man, you're so happy... what you take?
❤❤❤❤
Mark where can I buy cartridge cables inside the arm of SME309
I presume you shorted the capacitors off camera before you opened the power supply?
👍👍
Where are you based I've got a qtx 15a active speaker It works with low volume but as soon as i Turn it up, it sounds really distorted Being told it's the amplifier
According to 1:55 of your video, LED red wire is closer to the edge of the board. 😉
Hello
How much"mV"you inject in the baffle with your frequenties generator?
Tanks
M from Belgium
Coils can move on their own too!
That speaker is NOWHERE near 2000 Watts of power output, what with absolutely no heatsink and fan, an idiot could work that one out.
I have a load of hifi stuff for repair, got any time spare?
When the clip red is on whats the problem? I News help with that problem
Have you measured real power of the amps? I really dont believe that it has even 1000W in total. Maybe closer to 500W. But dont have such speaker so cannot do that.
Based on the board it looks like there might be IRS2092 chips, with capacitors rated at 63V and even with 4ohm speaker it can take max 300W per woofer LOL
Has anyone ever got a schematic for an Alto product? I have a little ZMX122FX mixer that I'm sure just has a little power supply problem, but I can't even get a block diagram from them much less a schematic. They are very unhelpful.
If tandy was still open and sold speakers 🤣
2000 Watt ... no!
0:44 Contour IN for a 🙂 Smiley Face
If you know. Then you know. 😄
Well... "Alto" means "high", so you could say 'twas working perfectly. 😅