The green oxidisation indicates that the plug has been wet or damp at some point. I would suggest that the high resistance caused by the oxidisation could be the cause of the initial overheating and eventual failure.
Exactly; he speaks of "loose connections", but those connections were TIGHT (!)--just look at what he had to go through to get the wires disconnected! The oxidation/corrosion (Cupric oxide) does not conduct electricity, so the remaining un-oxidized copper is left to do that---BUT---there's not enough of it left to conduct the load: it's like using 24 gauge wire on a 25 AMP circuit, so it BURNS UP, as expected.
the same issue can happen when the wire is yanked often enough to weaken it near the plug end, it breaks wires inside the wires causing a higher resistance at that point, i used to see it on old peoples fan heaters all the time
its caused by the plug end being yanked on and such, it breaks some wires inside, so it increases its resistance, thus heat. i used to see it on old peoples fan heaters allthe time (they have them for decades, use them for hours, always, work sockets etc) these days i just inform them to buy a new heater or use the central heating properly
+jusb1066 not in this case. At the hot point, the strands were all intact. The various parts of the plug should be checked with an ohm-meter to identify the part turning current into heat. Also the fuse should be systematically checked to see if it has a heat generating too high resistance and is not blown. Then after passing the non-destructive tests, it should be tested if it will actually blow from the supposed "must blow" current and time specified for a fuse with those markings (it could be a fake fuse). Another comment suggested that at least one brand / model of plug suffers from inadequate attachment of the live pin to the fuse holder, making that a relevant thing to test as part of the investigation.
+john i see where your coming from, but a simple way to solve it, cut off a few inches and put a new plug on, usually is just a simple way to do it!, but thats gonna happen anyway once it has burnt a bit unless they go for full destruction! i dont see an ohm meter showing too much , its a fraction of an ohm, hard to measure. a 13a fuse is quite hard to blow, and yes some plugs did a terrible fuse attachment method, i prefer the old MK split pin rather than the top rivet types, heaven knows whats inside moulded plugs now
actually we didnt see inside the wire before the pinch point, where it would be bent around a lot with people pulling it etc, i bet thats more likely in this case still!
I've found in the past that with high amperage loads like washing machines and heaters, the fuse can get weak over time and generate a far bit of heat without blowing, a new fuse cures the problem for a while.
lots of ppl seem to dislike the word amperage but is it really any worse than voltage, which is ubiquitous in place of "electric potential difference", admittedly a mouthful compared to current but the principle is the same
Found on older Duraplugs the ends of the fuse contacts used to blacken. Also used to have to thread the top cover on. Think they have changed the thermoplastic chemistry to stop this from happening. Tend to use the white or orange ones now as they stand out better. Sealy/Masterplug are alternative brands for the heavy duty thermoplastic plugs. Mircomark heavy duty thermoplastic plugs used to have a silver U shaped live terminal to fuse contact that gripped the fuse rather poorly.
*_Ooooh, John!_* what you have shown here is a VERY SERIOUS case of someone being a Plug Dullard! Look at the state of that earth pin! Good luck trying to get an half-decent fault current through that! :-O Some time back, I done a video on _"How to use a plug and socket"_ and last Friday (10th Feb 2017) I even done a video on why it is a good idea to shine up plug pins. Chances are, before that plug had a meltdown in the socket, it was a total wreck anyway, and the PLUG DULLARD tried their luck one time too many. Then it let loose! I have seen cases of this before now, but..... not this bad!! Also, just to add-on to this: sometimes, damage like this can be caused by THE SOCKET. If there is a socket with devilish tendencies to chew up plugs and spit them back out, then there is either something wrong with the socket, or the wiring in the back. Checking the tightness of the terminals would confirm either a faulty socket or loose wiring. In this case, because you have TWO damaged sockets, this carnage can be blamed on..... No, not the plug, BUT THE PERSON who slave-whipped that poor plug into carrying on until it died on duty. Those Volex plugs are generally good, we used to have a similar one on our kettle around our previous house and that was a 2.75kW non-auto kettle as well. Never any issues from it. Apart from the obvious damage caused.... look at how badly scuffed up those sockets are!! That, once again is a serious case of sockets being given a hard time. We have those sockets about here-and-there in this house, (Crabtree) and not a single one looks ANYWHERE as badly beaten-up than those two you have there. Those sockets have had a hard life. May those sockets and that plug R.I.P. ......Rest In Pieces, that is! Thanks for showing, -Wayne's Electrical. _12th February 2017, 22.15_
If I may leap in here on John's behalf I think there are times when remedial advise isn't really considered necessary. I also think this is one of those times. When the cause is stated as either a loose connection or water ingress (in damp conditions) the solution to these problems are obvious. 1) Make sure you tighten connections securely so they don't work loose 2) Don't use water vulnerable electrical equipment in wet places. But if you must then at least take steps to ensure that they are shielded from possible water ingress. Sockets are available that are specifically designed for outdoor use for example.
Really? Which bit of my comment didn't you understand? I will see if I can make it clearer for you. Although I doubt I can. Word of advise to both of you if I may. If you need an in depth explanation as to why you don't bring water and electricity togther I suggest you leave the job to someone who knows. It may save someone's life one day. Even your own. Give it a miss.
It came with a "plug". Not a "socket". Plugs have pins. Sockets have holes. Plugs are attached to the device. Sockets are mounted to the wall. You have to insert the plug fully into the socket. So that there is no gap between the plug and the wall socket. You did make sure of that didn't you? If you did then your heater is most likely shorting out internally and drawing more current than it normally should. You must not use that heater until it has been examined and repaired.
Thanks again for another great example of what can go wrong. I have just had to replace a plug and socket in exactly this condition. Both were installed as new only 9 months ago in a working kitchen on a tiled surface. Looking at your example I would go with water ingress as primary cause of failure. In my case too. I noticed in my case that there was a recent break in the seal above the socket that could allow condensation to run down the tiles and into the socket immediately above the live pin on the one socket that had failed. No sign of corrosion like yours probably because the parts are relatively new. Your example looks old. But the damage is exactly the same. Wasted live pin and melted socket. Equipment as the source of problem ruled out by testing. It's a 2.5kW grill with no signs of internal damage, element not leaking and drawing 10.4A max as expected.
In the us I only ever see the socket getting hot since out plugs are usually just the one piece molded plugs for us it seems like usually every house has one or two toasted looking outlets
also it doesn't help when some people jam wires in there because they haven't got a plug ! have been in a house with every single power socket was like that or worse
thehappylittlefox aka benji, Yeah usually when our plugs melt like this, it is either due to a manufacturing defect (poor connection/weld between wire and plug blade), mechanical damage (pulling it out of the socket from the cord rather than the plug), or from worn out contacts in the socket itself.
I'm using a 2Kw heater and the plug top gets hot. I had the double socket replaced because it cracked. What should I do to avoid this problem. Shall I change the factory fitted plug for a normal 13amp type?
I had something similar happen with an extension cord - the attached appliances shut off without warning. I went to unplug the cord, and heard crackling when moving the flex. Turns out both line and neutral wires were loose & discoloured, so I disposed of the extension and bought a new one. Luckily, I caught this before it melted the socket!
What you described is what's happening with my extension lead at the moment. Thanks. I was wondering if it was the plug of an appliance that was at fault (my fan heater that's plugged into it keeps cutting out after 2 minutes), with a fuse needing replacing, but I think it's the extension lead that's faulty. Several sockets in the extension have burnt out a bit already. I bought a new extension lead yesterday, so I'll see how things go with that. 🙂
Regardless of the type of electrical system any loose connections whether between wires and the socket or within the socket itself are an extreme fire hazard especially where heating appliances or any others which use a lot of current are used. They will not trip the circuit breaker but they will become a heat source due to their resistance to the flow of electricity.
I wish I still had it, but here in the US, we had a far worse failure of an extension lead that was running a cement mixer. The socket side lost its springiness in the contacts (which is unfortunately super common) and the housing actually managed to catch fire
In this case, JW is almost certainly wrong and the fault was, like yours, down to a poor contact where the plug pin entered the socket. The clue is on all that corrosion on the earth pin, probably down to it being stored in a damp shed or outhouse. A poor contact (and it only takes a fraction of an ohm) and high currents and several watts of heat will be generated which and cause the sort of damage seen on that socket. I've had a similar problem on one old high-current device and an old power socket. It didn't fail that badly, but it did leave blackened burn marks on the socket.
Standard US outlets come in two varieties. Type A takes only a two pin plug with live and neutral. Type B has a an earth/ground and will take either a two pin type A plug or a three pin (with earth/ground). The outlets have no shutters. Standard UK sockets always use a ground pin (to open the shutters protecting the outlet), but the appliance is not necessarily earthed (it depends on how it's insulated and what it's made of). For appliances which need no earth, the earth pin can be made of plastic. The earthing at the electrical panel is common to almost every electrical system in the world (albeit with variations according to whether the supply company provide an earth or not). A very few electrical distribution systems in the world don't provide supplies which are referenced to earth at all.
In the U.S., it is now a code requirement for outlets to be tamper proof. The outlets are shuttered to prevent one from sticking anything into one of the slots. A plug entering both slots at the same time is required to open the shutter.
Which is why it's almost certainly not due to a wiring problem in the plug. I've seen these before, and it's down to poor contact between the pin and the socket. Given the corrosion on the earth pin, then it's almost certainly going to be something similar on the live pin, and the poor connection was what generated the heat when high currents passed through it. Even a tenth of an ohm at 10 amps would generate 10 watts in a confined space. In the case of the live wire it isn't even physically connected to the love pin. There's a ceramic fuse, and they don't conduct heat at all well. This was clearly not a loose wire problem (the wire would have been in an awful state).
I had been alternately plugging in my heater for a while, then unplugging it and plugging in my dehumidifier. I decided to put them both on an extension cord but still only turn on one at a time. It charred the mains socket. So now I have no heat and no dehumidification till I can get everything fixed, which will be at least two weeks from now. I have the same kind of UK plugs in this video. Am I likely to have a fire, if I just leave everything unplugged and don't use any if it?
Thanks for your info. I just replaced one and it was a heater that was plugged in. I reconed the heater was faulty. I won't use the heater again although is fairly new going to take back to Argos.
I had a similar problem which melted part of the plug and damaged the socket. The plug seemed to be properly wired. All connections were tight and the 13A fuse seemed to 'snap' reassuring tightly into place into the sprung metal fuse holder clips. However, when I put my thumb on the fuse it was possible to rotate the fuse quite easily in the holder. The opening in the clips was narrow enough to make it difficult to insert and remove the fuse but, once in place, the sprung force against the fuse contacts was weak.
This happened to the pin of my dryer and the three-way socket extension, which was shared with the gas heater. But the pins of the gas heater were fine. How is it that the fuse did not blow when this happened? Is it ok to cut the wires of the dryer and reattach to a new plug? I think the dryer should still work.
the moulded plug on my tumble dryer failed in this manner, after replacing the double socket and putting on an old mk plug from my spares box i have had no trouble, says a lot for modern manufacturer safety doesn't it.
Ive had this happen in a very minor way. A plug/socket behind a washing machine started playing up, the machine was acting odd. The live on the plug and socket was a bit dark, i replaced the moulded on plug and repaired the dirty/sloppy contact in the socket. I think its a damp problem that creates tarnish, then an arc causes the real damage.
Hmmm! Looking at that plugs earth pin & the rear of that socket, (earth terminal screw & the earth terminal rivet opposite) there's a fair bit of corrosion. (looks like the socket has been installed in a damp area) That would cause a weak electrical connection resulting in a very small arc gradually creating warmer pins.
indeed it is a word, its in the oxford dictionary and derived from other languages : "Middle English: from Old French verte-gres, earlier vert de Grece green of Greece." i guess you might have fun if you live in a cul-de-sac or enjoy Art Neoveau !
well I didn't make the word up no ones appears to be laughing ! besides with a name like yours you should lose some weight if your constantly tripping over your guts and what's with all the capitals ? your fat thumb on the shift key ?
Warm yes - manufacturers typically use the smallest flex permitted, which will get noticeably warm in use. If it's too hot to hold, something is wrong.
Yeah, plugs and sometimes flexes for 3kw heaters do get warm, even ones properly wired and in new sockets. As long as the flex isn't covered by a rug it should only get slightly warm!
I have a Hoover vacuum with a supposedly 2kW motor that also warms up the flex when it's running at full power. I've always assumed that's normal considering the thickness of the flex used.
Further to this. A lot of manufacturers if not all, don’t test socket outlets for continuous use. This is more of a problem now with hot tubs and mode 2 car chargers. I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily a loose connection.
It could be that the spring receptical part of the SOCKET does not grab the pin tight enough to form a good connection, or it or the pin on the plug is dirty causing a high resistance. As you said once the resistance starts to go higher the problem gets worse. Especially on higher loads like heaters etc
old corroded plug, possibly a worn socket too, plug you see where the wire was tightened in the grip, probably because it had been yanked out a few times so they tightend it more, the wires had broken strands inside increasing the resistance (it was an extension lead, probably lived in damp garage till the cold nights started) and the fan heater run for hour non stop
thanks for the video: I have a question sir. I have a melted plastic on an electric plug of (water heater for tea) just little plastic on one of the 3 (what you call it? iron ) of the plug, nothing serious but still around on of the three "iron" rod has some plastic stuck to it, i scraped it , but still there a little lamination of that plastic is felt there..would it be dangerous to use, or can it be cleaned totally? or do I need to change the whole plug for that little melted plastic on it. Every thing is fine just one rode has some melted plastic on it..
John - At the start that is a pre-1984 plug you have there. I guess it goes to show that they are reasonably rugged bit of kit. Its good practice to use crimp ferrules on the ends of the wire so that the screw is not bearing down on the strands of the wire directly.
Hi, I always solder the end of the wire where it goes into the pins, I run inverter welders on long extension leads and rarely have a problem. You can't draw current like that continuously, but given a rest every so often it's fine. Keep my plugs and sockets clean and maintained and NO problem.
@@90vanman Solder is a bad idea in that area. After some years it will deform that much that you'll have the same problem. That's the reason this procedure is banned here in Germany for round about 40 years. The best way to go is to do as Colin wrote: Ferrules crimped on the ends of the wires. Here it is mandatory to do so if you put stranded wires into a screw-type terminal.
I would suggest that the problem was in the sockets. When you disassembled the plug, you didn’t check the tightness of the terminals, which surprised me. If the line pin was not making firm contact with the socket, the result would have been much the same. When I was in the business, I tested some Crabtree sockets in a kitchen, all of which looked fairly new, and my tester showed open circuit cpc on more than one. I removed the plates to check cpc continuity directly, and they were fine: the pin was not making contact in the socket. This was many years ago, but surprised me, as Crabtree is a respected manufacturer.
I'm surprised to see this, since I was informed that UK plugs are so very superior to all others. ;-) It is best to go straight to CEE plugs (IEC 60309) if there are high currents for a prolonged period.
Yes, and they know why. Why would I install another crappy household socket when it is only a question on time before that fails again. No need to push your luck with causing a fire when there is reliable industrial equipment to do the job safely. I don't know how that CEE plug would deal with your UK ring-mains fuse-in-plug regulations, but since it is common already as a camper van socket there must be a way?
We use them at work a lot for server/coms racks mainly, well the 16Amp flavour of those and some 32Amp ones too, and they have an in line RCD breaker on the wall as normal as well as an overcurrent protection breaker just before the socket. Usually though in these cases it's a case of everything is rated way higher than the fuse/breaker.
+stefantrethan: Yes, I think everybody would be happy to replace the discreet plugs and sockets with the bulky blue industrial style CEE-plugs and -sockets. You could have this problem on every type of socket/plug: www.eloteba.de/images/echeck-beispiele/echeck04.jpg I've seen this kind of damage on Schuko too. This problem is caused by corrosion of the contacts. This is causing a transfer resistance and the contacts are heating up.
Sure, they are quite beautiful. Really shows the neighbours that you can afford a lot of electricity. ;-) It can happen to any plug, especially with a (likely) termination problem as in the photo. But if you compare the contacts in CEE and Schuko sockets I have a lot more confidence in the CEE type. It is a solid brass rod in a substantial brass tube, with a steel spring around the outside to compress the tube. Schuko sockets by comparison are just a flimsy stamped piece of sheetmetal, some cheap ones don't even have the steel springs around the outside any more to keep up the contact pressure. You can feel the heat generated in the Schuko plug with just a space heater, even just 1-2kW and you can often feel it getting hot. It won't happen with nice shiny new PCE Taurus connectors of course, but the real world is far from ideal conditions. I had to learn this the hard way too. After one Schuko socket burned out the second time I wised up and stopped worrying about how it will look. After all a blue plug is a lot more pleasing to the eye than your whole house lit up with blue lights from the firetrucks...
I had exactly the same happen, and the load was only around 750 watts. The problem was not a loose connection at where the wire was held nor the fuse clip to fuse it was the riveted connection of the live pin too the fuse clip that was loose. I would bet that if you took the pin out of the remains of that plug you would find the problem there as well judging by where the heat was the highest on that plug.
UK pins are fairly complicated to machine, and the brass they like to use for easy machining doesn't exactly lend itself to reliable riveting. We've had that issue at work.
a lot of the imported plugs ive noticed are not brass, some kind of alloy maybe, not brass colour, and some are plated too, perhaps they changed the material to improve the rivetting issue.
+jusb1066 The worst plugs I have ever seen were on some Ebay bargain laptop power cables. I was wondering why the pins looked a bit weird, and cut into one. The damn pin was just a very thin shell of metal, filled with plastic inside! On many of them the "wires" came out the side of the plug molding, and the conductors were just a few hair thin strands of some shitty black scrap metal alloy. All sorts of colours for the insulation too, but that really was the least of it.
+stefan, yes can never know how bad some of the imports are till you tear it down, nothing like the solid old MK plugs! i was very wary of moulded plugs for years as they were often unreliable, i guess the chinese ever cheaper price has brought us right back to unreliable
jusb1066 yes I hate molded plugs because I think the moulding actually causes any heat to be retained. I've seen a dishwasher plug completely melted. Also the sleeved pins seem to be a problem because the plastic around them often melts, as we saw on that plug
If it had been the live screw connection to have overheated, then it would not have transmitted significant heat to the pin as the two are only physically connected by a ceramic fuse which really doesn't transmit heat at all well. Also, the insulation on that live cable would have been fried. A far more likely explanation, and something I've seen before, is that it's corrosion on the plug pin itself which is the problem. It would have created a relatively resistance where it contacted the conductors in the socket. The passing of a high current across that can generate a lot of heat inside the socket, which is where the damage has occurred. There's even more evidence that this is a corrosion issue, and that's the state of that earth pin. Where has that been to get in that state? I think it's likely there was a lost of surface corrosion on the live pin too. As I say - I've seen this before and it's not helped if the socket connectors have lost some of their spring power and don't grip the conductors well.
One side of the fuse on my 2kw fan heater melts the socket at the fuse area not pin., the plug gets hott too even when on for a few minutes.. It is a moulded plug but has access to change the fuse, should I change the fuse or buy a new heater? Will changing the fuse stop the plug from getting warm? Any advice helpful, I'm hoping to order a new heater today if not fixable. Thank you.
Hi, I have old hotpoint tumble dryer that is about 3kw. Plug was getting very hot and i just replaced the whole cable with genuine unused cable that came from the actual factory where they are building these machines. It is still getting very hot. How do i resolve this?
Nice example. Reminds me of a near miss once... I was using a generator outside and routing power via an extension lead... and forgot to unreel the extension lead from the drum... just remembered in time... I have heard horror stories of whole extension drums melting together.
What does it mean if my 3-pin USB adapter, that I use as a charger shows signs of burns on the earth pin? The earth pin is made of plastic. It is blackened. The charger still works, but my phone charges a little slower. Does this mean my adapter is faulty or my plug point has a problem? I have tried a different plug point to no avail. Don't want to risk destroying another adapter. Any help would be much appreciated
Faulty adaptor most likely, and with a plastic pin overheating internally would be the only real option. Sockets can cause overheating if they are worn or damaged, but that would only occur with metal pins which carry current.
Hi john. I changed a plug and then what you showed happend to the plug (burnt) I changed it the second time it does not seem to be getting that hot although still does get warm but the pins get really hot.....any ideas ?
Loose wires in the plug or the socket. If it's overheated before, the socket is probably damaged as well. Solution is to replace both the plug and the socket.
@@jacko2815Its overheating, charging a car will apply a high load for hours at a time, which most sockets were never designed for. Doesn't have to burn anything to cause fractures in the plastic.
Yes, because the fuse protects from over-current and nothing more. The plug got that hot because of a poor connection either in the termination of the plug itself, or the point of contact inside the socket, which lead to arcing. The arcing causes intense heat and therefore causes the plug and the socket to burn or melt. As far as fire protection goes, most plugs and sockets that follow BS 1363 and BS 1363-2 approval will be made of a composition that contains a fire retardant.
it wasnt a cheap plug nor a cheap socket (volex and crabtree) it was a combination of: worn out socket, corroded pins on plugs and the overtightend wire retainer causing damage to the wires at that point causing a high resistance and probably was running a fan heater, even more likely a fan heater on an extension cable that was ancient (it was that plug is from the 80s') and kept in a damp garage, that extension probably been used everything under the sun and yanked about
I've noticed 13amp plugs get warm when you draw 3kw, I'm sure the fuse it's self can generate a lot of the heat. I'll have to do some checks next time I see the issue.
i guess that's the reason why it's recommended to use properly crimped ferrules on stranded wire before clamping them in. But it would not have helped in that ase as it seems like the fuse clamp was not properly rivetted down to the live pin.
Looks like all the pins were as corroded as the earth, causing resistance and heating. I use steel wool to clean plug pins, then a smear of vasaline which will stop the air and damp causing corrosion. I similarly use vasaline or protective contact lubricant on wire ends & connections, especially in damp places, to prevent corrosion and eventual problems.
Yeah, if the fuse is running close to full load the it will get slightly warm. It could also be corrosion or gunk in the socket, but as long as it doesn't get too hot to touch then you will be fine! This is the main reason why appliances such as immersion heaters should be hard wired into the mais, even if they draw slightly under the 13A a plug is rated for.
Edmund Fisher Like others I thought the UK plug was the best in the world, but I've seen this happen many times, I guess this is one of the down sides?
The 13A plug and socket are a very conservatively rated bit of kit and in good condition are capable of well over double that current. Hopefully the statute of limitations applies to my confession to having done just that on one occasion some 30 years ago with a length of brass rod serving as the 'fuse'.
i regognise these plugs commonly found on JoJo extension reels my nan has one and it it rated at only 5AMPS I know such a low amount and very easly overloaded
Hi John. I have seen no end of these in the large housing estates in the north of England owned by the council. When the socket gets fried like that and is changed usually the wiring immediately behind the socket has burned back a little. Nice if the installers had left some free wire to attend to. Short wiring is such a pain. Also the plug top was the tenants responsibility but rarely did they have one so we supplied one. Some makes of socket and plugs are just poorly made and are not really good enough to power large loads like a 3 bar fire. We recommended them getting a good make like MK. Interestingly John here in the US I rarly see any burnt sockets or light switches. It is 120 vac. Guess that may be the difference but harder to say why? The older properties mix light and sockets on the same circuit. I don't like that one bit. And its impossible to get a fast kettle with the 120 v and 15 to 20 amp wiring!. A nice project for you to comment on John, The type of double pole switches as used for examplne in the cupboard where the immersion heater is switched. I have seen a burnt neutral so it appears the heater is not fed but there is a nice live there in wait!
It certainly can happen with sockets in the United States. A friend of mine used an under-rated extension cord to plug his washing machine to the outlet. After prolong use, it started arcing inside the outlet and it started to smoke. It melted one of the blades off the plug and the blade was stuck inside the blackened outlet.
Lmao I was putting my charger into the socket and it sparked at me ( I think I put it in wrong) and I’m trying to take it out and it keeps sparking. On a scale of 1 -10 how screwed am I?
I was doing my hair in my room, and I was done so I tried pulling it out, but it sparked and it started steaming, all the power in my room went out, what do I do?
John Ward hi...i recently plugged in a heater to dry my wet carpet...when i tried unplugging the heater it was really hard to pull the plug out...once i managed to pull it out..there was a burnt hole and one of the prongs was burnt and crumbly....theres also a fishy smell in my room that there wasnt before...could it have anything to do with the burnt socket....Thanks a bunch!!!!
Thank you for the video. Been trying to find out why my plug gets hot and it is so difficult to pull out from the socket. I certainly learn something from your video.
First I'd like to welcome everyone on British airways 57a , We are currently cruising at an altitude of 33,000 feet at an airspeed of 400 miles per hour. The time is 1:25 pm. The weather looks good and with the tailwind on our side we are expecting to land in London approximately fifteen minutes ahead of schedule 😎
Every time I turned on the microwave the light was flickering and the fuse in the plug blew..I thought it was a faulty light bulb. Ordered a new one for £16 changed it but same problem 😮 I decided to open the socket and found a loose cable , screwed it tight and problem solved . How can the wire get lose after years ?? Just noticed that my Coffee grinder (which was on the same socket) doesn't work anymore. Not only i wasted £16 on a new bulb the loose wire also blew up my Coffee grinder £50
Heating can eventually cause "carbon track" between live and neutral, which hopefully blows a fuse or breaker, before the house is burned down. Ironic isn't it, that most plastic insulators are based on organic chemicals containing carbon, which is a conductive element. I wonder whether silicon based materials might eventually replace them?
Its got nothing at all to do with any loose connections. The conductors were crushed by the cord grip, hence creating massive resistance at the point where it was squashed and generating a lot of heat at the socket and plug pin contacts. All basic stuff.
+niceguy235uk1 Not convinced thats' sufficient to break the copper / add that much resistance.... Have seen many squashed cables and just not that bad. What it MAY do is increase the tendency to bend 'sharply' and break just below the cord-grip...
The copper conductor hasn't broken. I have seen plenty squashed cables, especially immersion heaters where the clamp has been done up too tight on the heater head. Exactly the same result.
Once upon a time the gold standard in the UK was MK into MK sadly with globalisation the MK plugs are no longer made in the UK and the quality of the overseas version is poor at best a poor connection leads to ohmic heating and things getting hot
had this happen on a washing machine , the plug was sealed unit with the only user service part been the fuse lucky i was there when the magic smoke and flames released. had to change plug and socket machine was 4 month old
Well if you know what you are doing it is fine, but many people do not. I was taught how to wire a plug or extension lead etc around the age of ten :) . But a lot of people have no clue.
If anyone else googled, "how to remove electrical socket that won't come out" and was recommended this shitty video that doesn't address the immediate problem... Here is my advice, I realized the best course of action is to turn the fuse off for the outlet, (may have to decipher ancient Greek text to uncover its hidden meaning), or you could turn off all the switches, and then you'll be able to pull the plug out without starting a house fire. You're welcome.
This could have also easily been caused just due to having the fused plug. but was likely a corrosion issue. I never quite understood why they went with individually fused plugs rather than wiring the circuit with a breaker that supports the rated load of the outlet. Then all appliances regardless of load would have to use decent sized flex to be able to trip the breaker in the case of a fault. Any time you add additional connections like fuses to a circuit you create more areas where a fault, corrosion etc., could occur.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but using a low 1 amp fuse for many low powered devices makes them much safer, since any unwanted power above 240 watts will blow the fuse. If we rely on allowing up to 13 amps for everything, then you don't get that additional safety for lower power devices.
The green oxidisation indicates that the plug has been wet or damp at some point. I would suggest that the high resistance caused by the oxidisation could be the cause of the initial overheating and eventual failure.
Exactly; he speaks of "loose connections", but those connections were TIGHT (!)--just look at what he had to go through to get the wires disconnected! The oxidation/corrosion (Cupric oxide) does not conduct electricity, so the remaining un-oxidized copper is left to do that---BUT---there's not enough of it left to conduct the load: it's like using 24 gauge wire on a 25 AMP circuit, so it BURNS UP, as expected.
Smarty marty 😉
the same issue can happen when the wire is yanked often enough to weaken it near the plug end, it breaks wires inside the wires causing a higher resistance at that point, i used to see it on old peoples fan heaters all the time
I've seen this happen with 3kW electric heaters. Even though everything seems tight and secure, the plug and fuse still tend to get very hot.
morthren I was just about to say the exact same thing, happened to me with a 2kw electric heater.
its caused by the plug end being yanked on and such, it breaks some wires inside, so it increases its resistance, thus heat. i used to see it on old peoples fan heaters allthe time (they have them for decades, use them for hours, always, work sockets etc) these days i just inform them to buy a new heater or use the central heating properly
+jusb1066 not in this case. At the hot point, the strands were all intact. The various parts of the plug should be checked with an ohm-meter to identify the part turning current into heat. Also the fuse should be systematically checked to see if it has a heat generating too high resistance and is not blown. Then after passing the non-destructive tests, it should be tested if it will actually blow from the supposed "must blow" current and time specified for a fuse with those markings (it could be a fake fuse). Another comment suggested that at least one brand / model of plug suffers from inadequate attachment of the live pin to the fuse holder, making that a relevant thing to test as part of the investigation.
+john i see where your coming from, but a simple way to solve it, cut off a few inches and put a new plug on, usually is just a simple way to do it!, but thats gonna happen anyway once it has burnt a bit unless they go for full destruction! i dont see an ohm meter showing too much , its a fraction of an ohm, hard to measure. a 13a fuse is quite hard to blow, and yes some plugs did a terrible fuse attachment method, i prefer the old MK split pin rather than the top rivet types, heaven knows whats inside moulded plugs now
actually we didnt see inside the wire before the pinch point, where it would be bent around a lot with people pulling it etc, i bet thats more likely in this case still!
I've found in the past that with high amperage loads like washing machines and heaters, the fuse can get weak over time and generate a far bit of heat without blowing, a new fuse cures the problem for a while.
+Trevor Smith
My physics-teacher would shoot you for that A-word, ... try "Current" instead...!
lots of ppl seem to dislike the word amperage but is it really any worse than voltage, which is ubiquitous in place of "electric potential difference", admittedly a mouthful compared to current but the principle is the same
Just use a nail , problem solved :P
Your physics teacher is not an electrician ;)
Found on older Duraplugs the ends of the fuse contacts used to blacken. Also used to have to thread the top cover on. Think they have changed the thermoplastic chemistry to stop this from happening. Tend to use the white or orange ones now as they stand out better. Sealy/Masterplug are alternative brands for the heavy duty thermoplastic plugs. Mircomark heavy duty thermoplastic plugs used to have a silver U shaped live terminal to fuse contact that gripped the fuse rather poorly.
*_Ooooh, John!_* what you have shown here is a VERY SERIOUS case of someone being a Plug Dullard!
Look at the state of that earth pin! Good luck trying to get an half-decent fault current through that! :-O
Some time back, I done a video on _"How to use a plug and socket"_ and last Friday (10th Feb 2017) I even done a video on why it is a good idea to shine up plug pins.
Chances are, before that plug had a meltdown in the socket, it was a total wreck anyway, and the PLUG DULLARD tried their luck one time too many. Then it let loose!
I have seen cases of this before now, but..... not this bad!!
Also, just to add-on to this: sometimes, damage like this can be caused by THE SOCKET.
If there is a socket with devilish tendencies to chew up plugs and spit them back out, then there is either something wrong with the socket, or the wiring in the back. Checking the tightness of the terminals would confirm either a faulty socket or loose wiring.
In this case, because you have TWO damaged sockets, this carnage can be blamed on.....
No, not the plug, BUT THE PERSON who slave-whipped that poor plug into carrying on until it died on duty.
Those Volex plugs are generally good, we used to have a similar one on our kettle around our previous house and that was a 2.75kW non-auto kettle as well. Never any issues from it.
Apart from the obvious damage caused.... look at how badly scuffed up those sockets are!! That, once again is a serious case of sockets being given a hard time. We have those sockets about here-and-there in this house, (Crabtree) and not a single one looks ANYWHERE as badly beaten-up than those two you have there.
Those sockets have had a hard life. May those sockets and that plug R.I.P.
......Rest In Pieces, that is!
Thanks for showing,
-Wayne's Electrical.
_12th February 2017, 22.15_
Did i just read an essay
I thought you were going to explain how this can be avoided not spend the whole video demonstrating the damage
If I may leap in here on John's behalf I think there are times when remedial advise isn't really considered necessary. I also think this is one of those times. When the cause is stated as either a loose connection or water ingress (in damp conditions) the solution to these problems are obvious. 1) Make sure you tighten connections securely so they don't work loose 2) Don't use water vulnerable electrical equipment in wet places. But if you must then at least take steps to ensure that they are shielded from possible water ingress. Sockets are available that are specifically designed for outdoor use for example.
Spot on he’s a numpty , can see the point of this vid
Really? Which bit of my comment didn't you understand? I will see if I can make it clearer for you. Although I doubt I can. Word of advise to both of you if I may. If you need an in depth explanation as to why you don't bring water and electricity togther I suggest you leave the job to someone who knows. It may save someone's life one day. Even your own. Give it a miss.
It came with a "plug". Not a "socket". Plugs have pins. Sockets have holes. Plugs are attached to the device. Sockets are mounted to the wall. You have to insert the plug fully into the socket. So that there is no gap between the plug and the wall socket. You did make sure of that didn't you? If you did then your heater is most likely shorting out internally and drawing more current than it normally should. You must not use that heater until it has been examined and repaired.
@@veritasaequitas9875 you wasted your time, i have every idea what the fuck happened.
Thanks again for another great example of what can go wrong. I have just had to replace a plug and socket in exactly this condition. Both were installed as new only 9 months ago in a working kitchen on a tiled surface. Looking at your example I would go with water ingress as primary cause of failure. In my case too. I noticed in my case that there was a recent break in the seal above the socket that could allow condensation to run down the tiles and into the socket immediately above the live pin on the one socket that had failed. No sign of corrosion like yours probably because the parts are relatively new. Your example looks old. But the damage is exactly the same. Wasted live pin and melted socket. Equipment as the source of problem ruled out by testing. It's a 2.5kW grill with no signs of internal damage, element not leaking and drawing 10.4A max as expected.
In the us I only ever see the socket getting hot since out plugs are usually just the one piece molded plugs for us it seems like usually every house has one or two toasted looking outlets
also it doesn't help when some people jam wires in there because they haven't got a plug ! have been in a house with every single power socket was like that or worse
thehappylittlefox aka benji,
Yeah usually when our plugs melt like this, it is either due to a manufacturing defect (poor connection/weld between wire and plug blade), mechanical damage (pulling it out of the socket from the cord rather than the plug), or from worn out contacts in the socket itself.
I'm using a 2Kw heater and the plug top gets hot. I had the double socket replaced because it cracked. What should I do to avoid this problem. Shall I change the factory fitted plug for a normal 13amp type?
Yes, fit a good quality one such as MK. Plenty of factory moulded plugs are of poor quality.
I had something similar happen with an extension cord - the attached appliances shut off without warning. I went to unplug the cord, and heard crackling when moving the flex. Turns out both line and neutral wires were loose & discoloured, so I disposed of the extension and bought a new one. Luckily, I caught this before it melted the socket!
What you described is what's happening with my extension lead at the moment. Thanks. I was wondering if it was the plug of an appliance that was at fault (my fan heater that's plugged into it keeps cutting out after 2 minutes), with a fuse needing replacing, but I think it's the extension lead that's faulty. Several sockets in the extension have burnt out a bit already. I bought a new extension lead yesterday, so I'll see how things go with that. 🙂
On second thought, I think the fan heater's fuse needs replacing as well because there's visible melting around one of its plug pins! 🤦♀🤷
I saw many times this (but not much damaged like in this video) on washingmachine plugs.
Regardless of the type of electrical system any loose connections whether between wires and the socket or within the socket itself are an extreme fire hazard especially where heating appliances or any others which use a lot of current are used. They will not trip the circuit breaker but they will become a heat source due to their resistance to the flow of electricity.
I just replaced a receptacle in my house today that had suffered a similar failure. A welcome confirmation of the likely reason for failure.
My Lord, but you have some tough viewers! Your video told me what I think caused my meltdown. Thanks John.
was the damage caused by water?
I wish I still had it, but here in the US, we had a far worse failure of an extension lead that was running a cement mixer. The socket side lost its springiness in the contacts (which is unfortunately super common) and the housing actually managed to catch fire
In this case, JW is almost certainly wrong and the fault was, like yours, down to a poor contact where the plug pin entered the socket. The clue is on all that corrosion on the earth pin, probably down to it being stored in a damp shed or outhouse. A poor contact (and it only takes a fraction of an ohm) and high currents and several watts of heat will be generated which and cause the sort of damage seen on that socket.
I've had a similar problem on one old high-current device and an old power socket. It didn't fail that badly, but it did leave blackened burn marks on the socket.
Steve Jones in the us there isn't earth pins on the outlets they are earthed at the electrical panel (the one with the breaker switches)
Standard US outlets come in two varieties. Type A takes only a two pin plug with live and neutral. Type B has a an earth/ground and will take either a two pin type A plug or a three pin (with earth/ground). The outlets have no shutters.
Standard UK sockets always use a ground pin (to open the shutters protecting the outlet), but the appliance is not necessarily earthed (it depends on how it's insulated and what it's made of). For appliances which need no earth, the earth pin can be made of plastic.
The earthing at the electrical panel is common to almost every electrical system in the world (albeit with variations according to whether the supply company provide an earth or not). A very few electrical distribution systems in the world don't provide supplies which are referenced to earth at all.
In the U.S., it is now a code requirement for outlets to be tamper proof. The outlets are shuttered to prevent one from sticking anything into one of the slots. A plug entering both slots at the same time is required to open the shutter.
I am amazed the inside of the plug was in such good condition.
Which is why it's almost certainly not due to a wiring problem in the plug. I've seen these before, and it's down to poor contact between the pin and the socket. Given the corrosion on the earth pin, then it's almost certainly going to be something similar on the live pin, and the poor connection was what generated the heat when high currents passed through it. Even a tenth of an ohm at 10 amps would generate 10 watts in a confined space.
In the case of the live wire it isn't even physically connected to the love pin. There's a ceramic fuse, and they don't conduct heat at all well. This was clearly not a loose wire problem (the wire would have been in an awful state).
I had been alternately plugging in my heater for a while, then unplugging it and plugging in my dehumidifier. I decided to put them both on an extension cord but still only turn on one at a time. It charred the mains socket. So now I have no heat and no dehumidification till I can get everything fixed, which will be at least two weeks from now. I have the same kind of UK plugs in this video. Am I likely to have a fire, if I just leave everything unplugged and don't use any if it?
This happened about a half hour ago. I am already freezing.
Thanks for your info.
I just replaced one and it was a heater that was plugged in.
I reconed the heater was faulty.
I won't use the heater again although is fairly new going to take back to Argos.
I had a similar problem which melted part of the plug and damaged the socket. The plug seemed to be properly wired. All connections were tight and the 13A fuse seemed to 'snap' reassuring tightly into place into the sprung metal fuse holder clips. However, when I put my thumb on the fuse it was possible to rotate the fuse quite easily in the holder. The opening in the clips was narrow enough to make it difficult to insert and remove the fuse but, once in place, the sprung force against the fuse contacts was weak.
This happened to the pin of my dryer and the three-way socket extension, which was shared with the gas heater. But the pins of the gas heater were fine. How is it that the fuse did not blow when this happened? Is it ok to cut the wires of the dryer and reattach to a new plug? I think the dryer should still work.
the moulded plug on my tumble dryer failed in this manner, after replacing the double socket and putting on an old mk plug from my spares box i have had no trouble, says a lot for modern manufacturer safety doesn't it.
Ive had this happen in a very minor way.
A plug/socket behind a washing machine started playing up, the machine was acting odd.
The live on the plug and socket was a bit dark, i replaced the moulded on plug and repaired the dirty/sloppy contact in the socket.
I think its a damp problem that creates tarnish, then an arc causes the real damage.
Hmmm! Looking at that plugs earth pin & the rear of that socket, (earth terminal screw & the earth terminal rivet opposite) there's a fair bit of corrosion. (looks like the socket has been installed in a damp area) That would cause a weak electrical connection resulting in a very small arc gradually creating warmer pins.
mmm nice bit of verdigris on the earth pin and other metal parts on the socket !
is that a fact ? google begs to differ !
indeed it is a word, its in the oxford dictionary and derived from other languages : "Middle English: from Old French verte-gres, earlier vert de Grece green of Greece." i guess you might have fun if you live in a cul-de-sac or enjoy Art Neoveau !
well I didn't make the word up no ones appears to be laughing ! besides with a name like yours you should lose some weight if your constantly tripping over your guts and what's with all the capitals ? your fat thumb on the shift key ?
I'm not French !
well thanks for the information something I didn't know chemistry was another thing that was not my strong point !
Is it normal for a plug and flex on a kettle to get warm?
Warm yes - manufacturers typically use the smallest flex permitted, which will get noticeably warm in use.
If it's too hot to hold, something is wrong.
Yeah, plugs and sometimes flexes for 3kw heaters do get warm, even ones properly wired and in new sockets. As long as the flex isn't covered by a rug it should only get slightly warm!
Oh god, the number of people I see covering high wattage appliance cables with rugs and even putting them under the carpet...
Thanks :-)
I have a Hoover vacuum with a supposedly 2kW motor that also warms up the flex when it's running at full power. I've always assumed that's normal considering the thickness of the flex used.
Further to this. A lot of manufacturers if not all, don’t test socket outlets for continuous use. This is more of a problem now with hot tubs and mode 2 car chargers. I wouldn’t say it’s necessarily a loose connection.
Would have thought the hot tub would be permanently wired in not using a plug and socket.
If I am not mistaken, when you removed the burnt wires from the plug, were not the live and neutral reversed?
Is it my imagination ..or do some neutral terminals unscrew themselves?
It could be that the spring receptical part of the SOCKET does not grab the pin tight enough to form a good connection, or it or the pin on the plug is dirty causing a high resistance. As you said once the resistance starts to go higher the problem gets worse. Especially on higher loads like heaters etc
old corroded plug, possibly a worn socket too, plug you see where the wire was tightened in the grip, probably because it had been yanked out a few times so they tightend it more, the wires had broken strands inside increasing the resistance (it was an extension lead, probably lived in damp garage till the cold nights started) and the fan heater run for hour non stop
thanks for the video: I have a question sir.
I have a melted plastic on an electric plug of (water heater for tea) just little plastic on one of the 3 (what you call it? iron ) of the plug, nothing serious but still around on of the three "iron" rod has some plastic stuck to it, i scraped it , but still there a little lamination of that plastic is felt there..would it be dangerous to use, or can it be cleaned totally? or do I need to change the whole plug for that little melted plastic on it. Every thing is fine just one rode has some melted plastic on it..
play us a tune on your organ John
Great idea Optical Trace :)
A George Michael number
John - At the start that is a pre-1984 plug you have there. I guess it goes to show that they are reasonably rugged bit of kit. Its good practice to use crimp ferrules on the ends of the wire so that the screw is not bearing down on the strands of the wire directly.
Hi, I always solder the end of the wire where it goes into the pins, I run inverter welders on long extension leads and rarely have a problem. You can't draw current like that continuously, but given a rest every so often it's fine. Keep my plugs and sockets clean and maintained and NO problem.
@@90vanman Solder is a bad idea in that area. After some years it will deform that much that you'll have the same problem. That's the reason this procedure is banned here in Germany for round about 40 years. The best way to go is to do as Colin wrote: Ferrules crimped on the ends of the wires. Here it is mandatory to do so if you put stranded wires into a screw-type terminal.
I would suggest that the problem was in the sockets. When you disassembled the plug, you didn’t check the tightness of the terminals, which surprised me. If the line pin was not making firm contact with the socket, the result would have been much the same. When I was in the business, I tested some Crabtree sockets in a kitchen, all of which looked fairly new, and my tester showed open circuit cpc on more than one. I removed the plates to check cpc continuity directly, and they were fine: the pin was not making contact in the socket. This was many years ago, but surprised me, as Crabtree is a respected manufacturer.
Unless they were counterfeit maybe?
I'm surprised to see this, since I was informed that UK plugs are so very superior to all others. ;-)
It is best to go straight to CEE plugs (IEC 60309) if there are high currents for a prolonged period.
you don't find IEC 60309 plugs/sockets in homes in the UK only commercial have it, and that's usually when you're pulling close to 13Amps or higher.
Yes, and they know why.
Why would I install another crappy household socket when it is only a question on time before that fails again. No need to push your luck with causing a fire when there is reliable industrial equipment to do the job safely.
I don't know how that CEE plug would deal with your UK ring-mains fuse-in-plug regulations, but since it is common already as a camper van socket there must be a way?
We use them at work a lot for server/coms racks mainly, well the 16Amp flavour of those and some 32Amp ones too, and they have an in line RCD breaker on the wall as normal as well as an overcurrent protection breaker just before the socket. Usually though in these cases it's a case of everything is rated way higher than the fuse/breaker.
+stefantrethan:
Yes, I think everybody would be happy to replace the discreet plugs and sockets with the bulky blue industrial style CEE-plugs and -sockets.
You could have this problem on every type of socket/plug:
www.eloteba.de/images/echeck-beispiele/echeck04.jpg
I've seen this kind of damage on Schuko too. This problem is caused by corrosion of the contacts. This is causing a transfer resistance and the contacts are heating up.
Sure, they are quite beautiful. Really shows the neighbours that you can afford a lot of electricity. ;-)
It can happen to any plug, especially with a (likely) termination problem as in the photo.
But if you compare the contacts in CEE and Schuko sockets I have a lot more confidence in the CEE type. It is a solid brass rod in a substantial brass tube, with a steel spring around the outside to compress the tube. Schuko sockets by comparison are just a flimsy stamped piece of sheetmetal, some cheap ones don't even have the steel springs around the outside any more to keep up the contact pressure.
You can feel the heat generated in the Schuko plug with just a space heater, even just 1-2kW and you can often feel it getting hot. It won't happen with nice shiny new PCE Taurus connectors of course, but the real world is far from ideal conditions.
I had to learn this the hard way too. After one Schuko socket burned out the second time I wised up and stopped worrying about how it will look. After all a blue plug is a lot more pleasing to the eye than your whole house lit up with blue lights from the firetrucks...
I caught my plug before it got serious just a little burn residue can I still use the plug in another outlet ?
No, replace the plug and the damaged outlet.
@@jwflame and that answered my second question
Extension cables on a cable reel if not unwound can overheat during use and cause similar damage to plug and socket. As i recentt learned!
I had exactly the same happen, and the load was only around 750 watts. The problem was not a loose connection at where the wire was held nor the fuse clip to fuse it was the riveted connection of the live pin too the fuse clip that was loose. I would bet that if you took the pin out of the remains of that plug you would find the problem there as well judging by where the heat was the highest on that plug.
UK pins are fairly complicated to machine, and the brass they like to use for easy machining doesn't exactly lend itself to reliable riveting. We've had that issue at work.
a lot of the imported plugs ive noticed are not brass, some kind of alloy maybe, not brass colour, and some are plated too, perhaps they changed the material to improve the rivetting issue.
+jusb1066
The worst plugs I have ever seen were on some Ebay bargain laptop power cables. I was wondering why the pins looked a bit weird, and cut into one. The damn pin was just a very thin shell of metal, filled with plastic inside! On many of them the "wires" came out the side of the plug molding, and the conductors were just a few hair thin strands of some shitty black scrap metal alloy. All sorts of colours for the insulation too, but that really was the least of it.
+stefan, yes can never know how bad some of the imports are till you tear it down, nothing like the solid old MK plugs! i was very wary of moulded plugs for years as they were often unreliable, i guess the chinese ever cheaper price has brought us right back to unreliable
jusb1066 yes I hate molded plugs because I think the moulding actually causes any heat to be retained. I've seen a dishwasher plug completely melted. Also the sleeved pins seem to be a problem because the plastic around them often melts, as we saw on that plug
I hated Volex plugs, the fuse always seemed to be loose in the holder. For high current applications I always favoured the MK safety plugs
MK for me always!
If it had been the live screw connection to have overheated, then it would not have transmitted significant heat to the pin as the two are only physically connected by a ceramic fuse which really doesn't transmit heat at all well. Also, the insulation on that live cable would have been fried.
A far more likely explanation, and something I've seen before, is that it's corrosion on the plug pin itself which is the problem. It would have created a relatively resistance where it contacted the conductors in the socket. The passing of a high current across that can generate a lot of heat inside the socket, which is where the damage has occurred.
There's even more evidence that this is a corrosion issue, and that's the state of that earth pin. Where has that been to get in that state? I think it's likely there was a lost of surface corrosion on the live pin too.
As I say - I've seen this before and it's not helped if the socket connectors have lost some of their spring power and don't grip the conductors well.
100% ive seen many neutral terminals go bad because of lose wires but never a live! Maybe the socket was damaged by a "Socket Protector"
What is the rating of the fuse & did it even actually blow?
13 amps, not blown.
One side of the fuse on my 2kw fan heater melts the socket at the fuse area not pin., the plug gets hott too even when on for a few minutes.. It is a moulded plug but has access to change the fuse, should I change the fuse or buy a new heater? Will changing the fuse stop the plug from getting warm? Any advice helpful, I'm hoping to order a new heater today if not fixable. Thank you.
Cut the moulded plug off and fit a new plug.
@@jwflameok thank you, new plug it is.
Is it okay to use that outlet when it still functions? I have a power cord plugged into it btw
what is the overall prognossis
,given its a Volex Plug.
Hi, I have old hotpoint tumble dryer that is about 3kw. Plug was getting very hot and i just replaced the whole cable with genuine unused cable that came from the actual factory where they are building these machines. It is still getting very hot. How do i resolve this?
Poor quality plug, poor quality socket, or one or both have been damaged by previous overheating.
Replace the plug and socket.
@@jwflame thank you very much. Will buy a socket tomorrow. Am i right to assume that if i plug the dryer in different socket it should be ok?
@@tabletsam9505 Possibly - although if the plug is damaged, it will still overheat and damage the other socket. Replace the plug as well.
@@jwflame thank you very much. I will do that
@@tabletsam9505 have you done replacing both the plug and the socket? What is result now? Is it still generating heat like before?
Nice example. Reminds me of a near miss once... I was using a generator outside and routing power via an extension lead... and forgot to unreel the extension lead from the drum... just remembered in time... I have heard horror stories of whole extension drums melting together.
Be honest, it did melt, didn’t it 🤔😆
What does it mean if my 3-pin USB adapter, that I use as a charger shows signs of burns on the earth pin? The earth pin is made of plastic. It is blackened. The charger still works, but my phone charges a little slower. Does this mean my adapter is faulty or my plug point has a problem? I have tried a different plug point to no avail. Don't want to risk destroying another adapter. Any help would be much appreciated
Faulty adaptor most likely, and with a plastic pin overheating internally would be the only real option.
Sockets can cause overheating if they are worn or damaged, but that would only occur with metal pins which carry current.
Hi john. I changed a plug and then what you showed happend to the plug (burnt) I changed it the second time it does not seem to be getting that hot although still does get warm but the pins get really hot.....any ideas ?
Loose wires in the plug or the socket. If it's overheated before, the socket is probably damaged as well. Solution is to replace both the plug and the socket.
Any idea ehat would cause the socket face plate to crack. No loose wires or burnt wires behind
A plug overheated and that heat caused the socket to crack
Or someone wrenched a plug out carelessly.
@@jwflame its been used to charge a car. The plug does ok and no burn marks on plug or socket or wires behind
@@jacko2815Its overheating, charging a car will apply a high load for hours at a time, which most sockets were never designed for. Doesn't have to burn anything to cause fractures in the plastic.
@@jwflame are there any brand sockets which you would recommend to take the load
Hi John,
Just curious if you double-checked the fuse itself, did it blow and, if it didn't, at what will it?
The plug should not be getting hot even if the appliance is consuming 2000 watts?
so the plug can get that hot without blowing the fuse? is there any other protection devices in the system to prevent this fire hazard?
Yes, because the fuse protects from over-current and nothing more. The plug got that hot because of a poor connection either in the termination of the plug itself, or the point of contact inside the socket, which lead to arcing. The arcing causes intense heat and therefore causes the plug and the socket to burn or melt.
As far as fire protection goes, most plugs and sockets that follow BS 1363 and BS 1363-2 approval will be made of a composition that contains a fire retardant.
A fuse will only blow if there is excessive current. All that is needed to get the heat is to have resistance (as per Ohms Law).
it wasnt a cheap plug nor a cheap socket (volex and crabtree) it was a combination of: worn out socket, corroded pins on plugs and the overtightend wire retainer causing damage to the wires at that point causing a high resistance and probably was running a fan heater, even more likely a fan heater on an extension cable that was ancient (it was that plug is from the 80s') and kept in a damp garage, that extension probably been used everything under the sun and yanked about
Could'nt agree more with the views expressed here. Corrosion and lead abuse.
I've noticed 13amp plugs get warm when you draw 3kw, I'm sure the fuse it's self can generate a lot of the heat. I'll have to do some checks next time I see the issue.
i guess that's the reason why it's recommended to use properly crimped ferrules on stranded wire before clamping them in. But it would not have helped in that ase as it seems like the fuse clamp was not properly rivetted down to the live pin.
Looks like all the pins were as corroded as the earth, causing resistance and heating. I use steel wool to clean plug pins, then a smear of vasaline which will stop the air and damp causing corrosion. I similarly use vasaline or protective contact lubricant on wire ends & connections, especially in damp places, to prevent corrosion and eventual problems.
It's odd that I've only ever seen this happen with the live pin. Is it possible that the fuse holder causes this rather than the wire being loose?
Of course. It could be either.
Yeah, if the fuse is running close to full load the it will get slightly warm. It could also be corrosion or gunk in the socket, but as long as it doesn't get too hot to touch then you will be fine!
This is the main reason why appliances such as immersion heaters should be hard wired into the mais, even if they draw slightly under the 13A a plug is rated for.
Edmund Fisher Like others I thought the UK plug was the best in the world, but I've seen this happen many times, I guess this is one of the down sides?
Thanks, i got a kettle that won’t unplug from the socket, had no idea what to do with it.
very dangerous but it shows you what can happen when you don't wire things properly
It probably was not a wiring fault. Judging by the corrosion it was possibly due to water damage.
The 13A plug and socket are a very conservatively rated bit of kit and in good condition are capable of well over double that current. Hopefully the statute of limitations applies to my confession to having done just that on one occasion some 30 years ago with a length of brass rod serving as the 'fuse'.
Yes, it's gotten quite hot.
Some sort of forced cooling would fix the problem, I think.
I believe water cooling is the answer. ;-)
Saltwater.
In case it gets cold, you don't want that sucker to freeze up.
+Flapjackbatter LOL
would you rather use this on a device or use a death-dapter?
i regognise these plugs commonly found on JoJo extension reels my nan has one and it it rated at only 5AMPS I know such a low amount and very easly overloaded
Hi John.
I have seen no end of these in the large housing estates in the north of England owned by the council.
When the socket gets fried like that and is changed usually the wiring immediately behind the socket has burned back a little.
Nice if the installers had left some free wire to attend to. Short wiring is such a pain.
Also the plug top was the tenants responsibility but rarely did they have one so we supplied one.
Some makes of socket and plugs are just poorly made and are not really good enough to power large loads like a 3 bar fire. We recommended them getting a good make like MK.
Interestingly John here in the US I rarly see any burnt sockets or light switches. It is 120 vac. Guess that may be the difference but harder to say why?
The older properties mix light and sockets on the same circuit.
I don't like that one bit.
And its impossible to get a fast kettle with the 120 v and 15 to 20 amp wiring!.
A nice project for you to comment on John, The type of double pole switches as used for examplne in the cupboard where the immersion heater is switched.
I have seen a burnt neutral so it appears the heater is not fed but there is a nice live there in wait!
It certainly can happen with sockets in the United States. A friend of mine used an under-rated extension cord to plug his washing machine to the outlet. After prolong use, it started arcing inside the outlet and it started to smoke. It melted one of the blades off the plug and the blade was stuck inside the blackened outlet.
Any solution to this especially my cooker
Lmao I was putting my charger into the socket and it sparked at me ( I think I put it in wrong) and I’m trying to take it out and it keeps sparking. On a scale of 1 -10 how screwed am I?
I was doing my hair in my room, and I was done so I tried pulling it out, but it sparked and it started steaming, all the power in my room went out, what do I do?
check the breaker box, the breaker must of been tripped, there a chance that a short circuit happend
This was almost certainly caused by the corrosion on the pins.
nice oxidation inside the Sockets too. Looks like that those were installed underwater
If you have say a 2 or 3kW load going through a thin fuse wire, isn't that going to generate heat in any case
Yes, fuses and fuse wire do heat up in normal operation. Fuse holders should be designed to accommodate the rise in temperature with normal loads.
Thanks John. Great videos btw, and I'd also like to say that the UK in my opinion has the best electrical system in the world :-)
John Ward hi...i recently plugged in a heater to dry my wet carpet...when i tried unplugging the heater it was really hard to pull the plug out...once i managed to pull it out..there was a burnt hole and one of the prongs was burnt and crumbly....theres also a fishy smell in my room that there wasnt before...could it have anything to do with the burnt socket....Thanks a bunch!!!!
Thank you for the video. Been trying to find out why my plug gets hot and it is so difficult to pull out from the socket. I certainly learn something from your video.
Is it usable if a pin on the plug is a bit burnt
No, any damage = replace the plug.
when you don't fully plug in the plug. Had a flatmate that would partially plug in the 2KW grill.
First I'd like to welcome everyone on British airways 57a , We are currently cruising at an altitude of 33,000 feet at an airspeed of 400 miles per hour. The time is 1:25 pm. The weather looks good and with the tailwind on our side we are expecting to land in London approximately fifteen minutes ahead of schedule 😎
Every time I turned on the microwave the light was flickering and the fuse in the plug blew..I thought it was a faulty light bulb. Ordered a new one for £16 changed it but same problem 😮 I decided to open the socket and found a loose cable , screwed it tight and problem solved . How can the wire get lose after years ?? Just noticed that my Coffee grinder (which was on the same socket) doesn't work anymore. Not only i wasted £16 on a new bulb the loose wire also blew up my Coffee grinder £50
1 of my plug socket melted due to having the fan heater running and especially when used extention lead on the fan heater!
If you look at the partially damaged socket you can see a "N' that has come from the plug next to the neutral hole.
When I use 2KW fan heaters, the plugs get hot, they are factory fitted too, so won't be loose connection. The wire gets warm too.
Seen this quite a few times over the years, generally where 'hot' appliances are involved. Interesting how much abuse a 13 amp fuse will take!
Heating can eventually cause "carbon track" between live and neutral, which hopefully blows a fuse or breaker, before the house is burned down. Ironic isn't it, that most plastic insulators are based on organic chemicals containing carbon, which is a conductive element. I wonder whether silicon based materials might eventually replace them?
originally all uk fittings had to be made with non-track thermoset plastics but someone in charge allowed the standard to slip
Thermosets can carbon track.
I think the approved ones were tested, urea formadehyde was the main one
Thanks for using your accent to drive up your subscribers.
Photonic Inductions whole house probably looks like this socket
No it’s not because if that happened he would replace the plug and socket
Thank you this was very helpful 🙌🏾🙏🏾
Why this happen ?
this happened on a new idesit washing machine the plug was a sealed unit and flames came out the back of the plug . about a month old
That plug (the good one) does not have any sleeving on the line and neutral pins for some reason 😑🤔
If you mean the white plug that's because it's an older plug that was manufactured at a time
when sleeved pins weren't a legal requirement.
Most probable cause was corded plug terminals
Its got nothing at all to do with any loose connections. The conductors were crushed by the cord grip, hence creating massive resistance at the point where it was squashed and generating a lot of heat at the socket and plug pin contacts. All basic stuff.
+niceguy235uk1
Not convinced thats' sufficient to break the copper / add that much resistance.... Have seen many squashed cables and just not that bad. What it MAY do is increase the tendency to bend 'sharply' and break just below the cord-grip...
The copper conductor hasn't broken. I have seen plenty squashed cables, especially immersion heaters where the clamp has been done up too tight on the heater head. Exactly the same result.
Once upon a time the gold standard in the UK was MK into MK sadly with globalisation the MK plugs are no longer made in the UK and the quality of the overseas version is poor at best a poor connection leads to ohmic heating and things getting hot
had this happen on a washing machine , the plug was sealed unit with the only user service part been the fuse lucky i was there when the magic smoke and flames released. had to change plug and socket machine was 4 month old
Mine refused to come off my extension and I gave up😩
I got one of those problems today 19/3/23 and is quite bad
very useful video.. .thank you Sir!
I just had this happen - even had the blueing of the opposite terminal to the fuse which i thought was strange
عندي سوكت مثل هذا ونفس الحرق بس الحمد لله يشتغل شكرا لك يامبدع صديقك من العراق
The heat is coming from the switch itself as it is of a poor quality.
The burnt bit is nowhere near the switch, and these are very good quality British sockets, the only issue here is a poor connection in the plug.
This is why loose plugs shouldn't be sold for public use, either buy an extension cord or let an electrician make you one
Well if you know what you are doing it is fine, but many people do not. I was taught how to wire a plug or extension lead etc around the age of ten :) . But a lot of people have no clue.
Looks like electroboom been near them
Thanks a millions this ticks all the boxes
If anyone else googled, "how to remove electrical socket that won't come out" and was recommended this shitty video that doesn't address the immediate problem...
Here is my advice, I realized the best course of action is to turn the fuse off for the outlet, (may have to decipher ancient Greek text to uncover its hidden meaning), or you could turn off all the switches, and then you'll be able to pull the plug out without starting a house fire. You're welcome.
This is not a 'how to' video.
Can this cause a fire 🔥???
Possible but unlikely.
@@jwflame There was a £.20 piece coin in the socket casing maybe this was causing the short-circuit very strange find lol
his voice is like from the movie KINGSMAN
This could have also easily been caused just due to having the fused plug. but was likely a corrosion issue. I never quite understood why they went with individually fused plugs rather than wiring the circuit with a breaker that supports the rated load of the outlet. Then all appliances regardless of load would have to use decent sized flex to be able to trip the breaker in the case of a fault. Any time you add additional connections like fuses to a circuit you create more areas where a fault, corrosion etc., could occur.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but using a low 1 amp fuse for many low powered devices makes them much safer, since any unwanted power above 240 watts will blow the fuse. If we rely on allowing up to 13 amps for everything, then you don't get that additional safety for lower power devices.