I had the thought the other day while ordering my fittings for the venturi retrofit regarding a restrictor. The velocity through the venturi is going to depend on the ^P between the TIP and your boost source. High boost levels with low absolute pressures in the inlet are going to create the most flow through the venturi, this would be a setup like the stock TIP, intake but on an elevated boost map. I could see too much flow through this venturi causing issues with the diaphragm having to work overtime to maintain consistent crank case pressure. What I’m getting at is I agree what what you said. lol After all, that diaphragm is literally just a proportional valve, but with input on both sides.. I’ve decided to use a 1/4” fitting and see what the crank case pressure and the consistency of that pressure looks like. GT2263 with an IE intake, about 29lbs peak
@JordieG8 great info! I think the plan for testing that specifically will be to get a 3/8 barbed 1/4 turn ball valve to put in line. Can go from straight through to full restricted and anywhere in between. My guess is that if non-OE TIPs kill off ~80% of natural TIP vacuum, That running an unrestricted venturi may be perfectly fine. Worst case scenario, that gets restricted down too.
@@datadrivenmqb for sure, I think you’re on the right track with an adjustable “restrictor” l. Just make sure it’s placed as far back from the venturi as possible. Balls valves cause a shit load of turbulence when they’re anything but fully open. Having a bit of a run after the valve will give the airflow a bit of distance to smooth out.
@@JordieG8thanjs again! Will keep in mind for sure! It also appears that small regulators are very inexpensive, but that might be overkill 😂 Initially adjust via my air compressor and adjust from there ? 😅
Also could you briefly discuss the oil cap and how it works with in the overall scheme of things? It seems that with so many of these engines venting vapors from the cap, I wonder if that is by design? I also ask since many end up using or rings and gaskets to seal that venting and may be adding to the crankcase pressures along with running a BL revision that doesn't have that open vac port. I'm looking forward to your conclusions on the MK8 retrofit but I'd also like to maximize what I have now to get to your conclusions with a sound engine, lol.
I think some might be from the old design cap on earlier cars, and some might be venting small amounts of excessive pressure. I don't exactly foresee the cap venting 0.1 to 0.2psi (the spring is very heavy). I suspect a significant amount of peoples' problems might be during oil changes: If you set the cap upside down, oil can run to the outside of the square cut o-ring, where with time/heat/use any oil will eventually "wick" and show up as dampness on the timing cover. Once all of this is "over" (at least to the point I'm confident in all the findings, etc), I plan on doing a revised all-in-one video going over everything and will be sure to include that as well.
Maybe a dumb question, but where on the Tiguan does the venturi hook up? Is there a Tiguan part that could be used for the full retrofit or is the 034 TMD the only way to do it on this engine? I have a stage 1 2015 A3 that I plan on tracking this year and am deciding what to do. Just take it as is and see what happens or do a basic or full retrofit before even taking it?
The Venturi is integrated into the Tiguan hose. In basic retrofit form the barb for the boost source gets capped off. This video of some early testing might show it better: ua-cam.com/video/bGQonlE2DEw/v-deo.html It's hard to predict if you'll have issues ahead of time, but if you have an OEM TIP your chances of issues will be less. Likelihood of problems will vary from track to track and driver to driver. I just data logged an aftermarket TIP in basic and full retrofit form on track so you can see what's going on: ua-cam.com/video/2d9FVkZ39Ts/v-deo.html
7.5 stage 1 eqt, turbo inlet, just threw code РОЗА500 cyl 2 too high pressure and P029900 turbo under boot. Currently 48k mi…running 91 Octane fuel..just ordered the APR catch can and going to remove the intake manifold and carbon clean….based off previous video sound like more benefits to switch to the MK8 PCV as these code appear to be related to the PCV and carbon buildup…would love your input….sounds like the APR catch and PCV system increases pressures in the block for some reason and are seem more beneficial for ppl who drive there R’s more race applications and the new mk8 PCV for daily driving.
I tend to lean towards more OEM based solutions. Fact is VW has a lot more R&D than any aftermarket company could ever dream of. I recommend plate/CC systems for dedicated track cars mainly because it fixes their problem, and the downsides (lack of crankcase vacuum at idle/taking off from a stop, may accelerate leaks over a period of time) aren't as realized if the car may only see 200mi in a weekend 5-10x per year, with oil changes every 400-500 track miles.
@@datadrivenmqb agreed thats why I find this fix very interesting and will be going this route I think you have videos for this. Im learning through your videos as I go. Ill have to go find the parts source video. Not totally understanding what and where the “Venturi” part purpose location is, seems would be best running the mk8 PCV w/Venturi.
@@Hunter1Lane no worries... it takes a bit to get your head around this system as a whole because there are so many different things and they are dependent on each other. In this video I bench tested the hose (and then "bench tested" it on the car) by blowing shop air through the boost hose to measure vacuum draw on the Venturi. Might explain how it works a bit better. ua-cam.com/video/bGQonlE2DEw/v-deo.html
Haha, I like the metric system in general (used a lot when I did ADAS calibrations)... But old habits die hard especially when it comes to speeds and pressures 😂 I'll make sure to add a metric conversion to the spreadsheets full of data next time! That's easy enough to do.
I had the thought the other day while ordering my fittings for the venturi retrofit regarding a restrictor. The velocity through the venturi is going to depend on the ^P between the TIP and your boost source. High boost levels with low absolute pressures in the inlet are going to create the most flow through the venturi, this would be a setup like the stock TIP, intake but on an elevated boost map. I could see too much flow through this venturi causing issues with the diaphragm having to work overtime to maintain consistent crank case pressure. What I’m getting at is I agree what what you said. lol After all, that diaphragm is literally just a proportional valve, but with input on both sides.. I’ve decided to use a 1/4” fitting and see what the crank case pressure and the consistency of that pressure looks like.
GT2263 with an IE intake, about 29lbs peak
@JordieG8 great info! I think the plan for testing that specifically will be to get a 3/8 barbed 1/4 turn ball valve to put in line. Can go from straight through to full restricted and anywhere in between.
My guess is that if non-OE TIPs kill off ~80% of natural TIP vacuum, That running an unrestricted venturi may be perfectly fine. Worst case scenario, that gets restricted down too.
@@datadrivenmqb for sure, I think you’re on the right track with an adjustable “restrictor” l. Just make sure it’s placed as far back from the venturi as possible. Balls valves cause a shit load of turbulence when they’re anything but fully open. Having a bit of a run after the valve will give the airflow a bit of distance to smooth out.
@@JordieG8thanjs again! Will keep in mind for sure!
It also appears that small regulators are very inexpensive, but that might be overkill 😂 Initially adjust via my air compressor and adjust from there ? 😅
@@JordieG8actually on the topic of turbulence... I might need to try swapping a smooth 90 deg fitting in place of the brass sharp 90 on the TMD...
@@datadrivenmqb yeah, for sure. Keep it as simple as possible!
hi there,may I know what part number I need to order to get the full Venturi ?besides the three things hose,pcv and bung. I have a 2015 gti
I covered install here (with parts list in the description):
ua-cam.com/video/Cy3vZvxOQvA/v-deo.htmlsi=_xOMmwtl46Pa5IIW
Also could you briefly discuss the oil cap and how it works with in the overall scheme of things? It seems that with so many of these engines venting vapors from the cap, I wonder if that is by design?
I also ask since many end up using or rings and gaskets to seal that venting and may be adding to the crankcase pressures along with running a BL revision that doesn't have that open vac port.
I'm looking forward to your conclusions on the MK8 retrofit but I'd also like to maximize what I have now to get to your conclusions with a sound engine, lol.
I think some might be from the old design cap on earlier cars, and some might be venting small amounts of excessive pressure. I don't exactly foresee the cap venting 0.1 to 0.2psi (the spring is very heavy).
I suspect a significant amount of peoples' problems might be during oil changes: If you set the cap upside down, oil can run to the outside of the square cut o-ring, where with time/heat/use any oil will eventually "wick" and show up as dampness on the timing cover.
Once all of this is "over" (at least to the point I'm confident in all the findings, etc), I plan on doing a revised all-in-one video going over everything and will be sure to include that as well.
What’s the benefit to running this on an is38 swapped A3?
More consistent crankcase pressure. If you’re not having issues then IMO there’s no need to do anything though.
Maybe a dumb question, but where on the Tiguan does the venturi hook up? Is there a Tiguan part that could be used for the full retrofit or is the 034 TMD the only way to do it on this engine?
I have a stage 1 2015 A3 that I plan on tracking this year and am deciding what to do. Just take it as is and see what happens or do a basic or full retrofit before even taking it?
The Venturi is integrated into the Tiguan hose. In basic retrofit form the barb for the boost source gets capped off.
This video of some early testing might show it better:
ua-cam.com/video/bGQonlE2DEw/v-deo.html
It's hard to predict if you'll have issues ahead of time, but if you have an OEM TIP your chances of issues will be less. Likelihood of problems will vary from track to track and driver to driver.
I just data logged an aftermarket TIP in basic and full retrofit form on track so you can see what's going on:
ua-cam.com/video/2d9FVkZ39Ts/v-deo.html
7.5 stage 1 eqt, turbo inlet, just threw code РОЗА500 cyl 2 too high pressure and P029900 turbo under boot. Currently 48k mi…running 91 Octane fuel..just ordered the APR catch can and going to remove the intake manifold and carbon clean….based off previous video sound like more benefits to switch to the MK8 PCV as these code appear to be related to the PCV and carbon buildup…would love your input….sounds like the APR catch and PCV system increases pressures in the block for some reason and are seem more beneficial for ppl who drive there R’s more race applications and the new mk8 PCV for daily driving.
I tend to lean towards more OEM based solutions. Fact is VW has a lot more R&D than any aftermarket company could ever dream of.
I recommend plate/CC systems for dedicated track cars mainly because it fixes their problem, and the downsides (lack of crankcase vacuum at idle/taking off from a stop, may accelerate leaks over a period of time) aren't as realized if the car may only see 200mi in a weekend 5-10x per year, with oil changes every 400-500 track miles.
@@datadrivenmqb agreed thats why I find this fix very interesting and will be going this route I think you have videos for this. Im learning through your videos as I go. Ill have to go find the parts source video. Not totally understanding what and where the “Venturi” part purpose location is, seems would be best running the mk8 PCV w/Venturi.
@@Hunter1Lane no worries... it takes a bit to get your head around this system as a whole because there are so many different things and they are dependent on each other.
In this video I bench tested the hose (and then "bench tested" it on the car) by blowing shop air through the boost hose to measure vacuum draw on the Venturi. Might explain how it works a bit better.
ua-cam.com/video/bGQonlE2DEw/v-deo.html
See you soon 😂
Can I introduce you to the metric stuff? 😂 Just a joke, keep up the awesome work!
Haha, I like the metric system in general (used a lot when I did ADAS calibrations)... But old habits die hard especially when it comes to speeds and pressures 😂 I'll make sure to add a metric conversion to the spreadsheets full of data next time! That's easy enough to do.