AWSOME VIDEO AND WELL EXPLAINED AND TO THE POINT . IT WORKS WELL FROM WHAT I CAN SE WITH A LITTLE TINKERING YOU WILL PERFECT IT . NICE JOB . IWILL BE KEEPING THIS VIDEO AS A REFERENCE TO BUILD ONE , MUCH CHEAPER THAN PAYING A SMALL FORTUNE THATS FORSURE .
Nice! Simple, effective, frugal, time saving, using minimal fabricated parts. Is the threaded stud at the right side of the tooth pusher bar, for adjusting for pitch? I watched the whole thing and somehow missed that. If it will do 10 TPI or finer, i must build one. I'll need a few centuries to finish the projects already started, but this one looks easy and your video makes it easier. Did you copy a commercial sharpener, or did you concieve of this yourself?
Thank you for the positive feedback! The threaded stud doesn't necessarily change the pitch, but rather it adjusts how far it indexes the tooth each cycle. So I adjust the threaded rod to get the blade to come down right on the back of each tooth. I think you should be able to get it to do 10 TPI but you may need a smaller/thinner grinder blade. I didn't copy a commercial unit directly but used them as inspiration ;)
@@craftzmanchris9859@yf6682 Threaded Stud: Yes, it adjusts the pitch. On a saw blade or chainsaw chain. The Pitch is the Length or Distance between the tips of two adjacent cutting teeth. Also, you may want to consider not changing the factory profile of the tooth & gullet. Add specific angles to the cutter head base plate i.e. 7° - hardwood, 10° - general purpose, 14° - softwood. Very nice video. Also would love to see your thoughts on a modification that allows the ability for a quick change of the cutter head & motor back & forth from BandSaw blade to chainsaw chain sharpener for cost efficiency of equipment. Just a thought, Wayne
There is nothing that holds it in place... but the way the bearings are on the shaft it can't move because the bearings are pushed all the way in so it can't shift side to side.
Man... This is gonna suck! I definitely need to make one of these now. But all I buy for saws are 18 to 24 tpi for metal. It's going to take forever to get around the blade! Welp better get started...
At least once you get it set up you can walk away and just let it run! I thought about wiring the motor to a toggle switch. Then, making a piece that sets on the blade as it goes around (after its dialed in) and it hits the toggle switch once it makes it all the way around shutting the motor off. This way it wouldn't just keep sharpening and would have an "auto shut off" feature after the blade is complete. You could always get a motor with a higher RPM to make it run faster as well. Good luck and thanks for watching!
looks good! how long did it take to put together?
Thanks! maybe 4-5 hours with all the cutting grinding and tinkering...
How about setting the teeth??
That's the next project. A homemade tooth setter for cheap as well! Follow me and I'll do a video like this when I get it wrapped up!
@craftzmanchris9859 will do. I'm building one right now off your design. Appreciate the help
AWSOME VIDEO AND WELL EXPLAINED AND TO THE POINT . IT WORKS WELL FROM WHAT I CAN SE WITH A LITTLE TINKERING YOU WILL PERFECT IT . NICE JOB . IWILL BE KEEPING THIS VIDEO AS A REFERENCE TO BUILD ONE , MUCH CHEAPER THAN PAYING A SMALL FORTUNE THATS FORSURE .
Thank you for the kind words!
Nice !!!!
Thank you Sir!
Nice!
Simple, effective, frugal, time saving, using minimal fabricated parts.
Is the threaded stud at the right side of the tooth pusher bar, for adjusting for pitch?
I watched the whole thing and somehow missed that.
If it will do 10 TPI or finer, i must build one.
I'll need a few centuries to finish the projects already started, but this one looks easy and your video makes it easier.
Did you copy a commercial sharpener, or did you concieve of this yourself?
Thank you for the positive feedback!
The threaded stud doesn't necessarily change the pitch, but rather it adjusts how far it indexes the tooth each cycle. So I adjust the threaded rod to get the blade to come down right on the back of each tooth.
I think you should be able to get it to do 10 TPI but you may need a smaller/thinner grinder blade.
I didn't copy a commercial unit directly but used them as inspiration ;)
@@craftzmanchris9859@yf6682
Threaded Stud: Yes, it adjusts the pitch. On a saw blade or chainsaw chain. The Pitch is the Length or Distance between the tips of two adjacent cutting teeth. Also, you may want to consider not changing the factory profile of the tooth & gullet. Add specific angles to the cutter head base plate i.e. 7° - hardwood, 10° - general purpose, 14° - softwood.
Very nice video. Also would love to see your thoughts on a modification that allows the ability for a quick change of the cutter head & motor back & forth from BandSaw blade to chainsaw chain sharpener for cost efficiency of equipment.
Just a thought,
Wayne
What keeps the rocker/lifter axle from shifting sideways in the V?
There is nothing that holds it in place... but the way the bearings are on the shaft it can't move because the bearings are pushed all the way in so it can't shift side to side.
Man... This is gonna suck! I definitely need to make one of these now. But all I buy for saws are 18 to 24 tpi for metal. It's going to take forever to get around the blade! Welp better get started...
At least once you get it set up you can walk away and just let it run! I thought about wiring the motor to a toggle switch. Then, making a piece that sets on the blade as it goes around (after its dialed in) and it hits the toggle switch once it makes it all the way around shutting the motor off. This way it wouldn't just keep sharpening and would have an "auto shut off" feature after the blade is complete. You could always get a motor with a higher RPM to make it run faster as well. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Клас
Best video I’ve seen yet! Nice work.
Wow, thanks!
Excellent. You've given me the courage to build one for myself. Thanks.
No problem, Good luck!