I enjoy watching your work. Just a comment on your water loss from the anode chamber - good old garden variety osmosis. Water is moving from highest concentration in the pot to lower concentration in the salt rich cathode chamber. The only way to stop that would be to have an equimolar compound in the anode chamber. Would need to be non-ionic and also not react with sulphuric acid. That would also prevent dilution of the salt in the cathodic chamber over time. Good luck with that - I can't think of any water soluble compound that will not react with sulphuric acid in the anode chamber.
Interesting, thanks for the info. Having the water level drop isn't too much of a hassle anyway, seeing as it can just be topped up at the end. I was under the impression that it would be some electrolytic effect or something, this makes much more sense.
@@ScrapScience Did you try using RO membrane? It doesn't result in loss of the fluid in the compartment where Sulphuric acid is kept, I guess because membrane pore size is much smaller than that of the clay pot. So osmosis is not so fast without applying significant pressure from the pump, either mechanical like RO units or electromechanical like here.
@@ScrapScience That reminds me of this video: ua-cam.com/video/zzVa_tX1OiI/v-deo.html The voltage across the membrane probably makes the water loss from regular osmosis even worse.
Try adding some hydrogen peroxide to the H2SO4 you made and boil it until the peroxide bubbles off. This should oxidize the carbon impurity(as CO2), if that's what it is, hopefully leaving the solution clear.
Old Video, but I've been using the magnesium sulfate one to get sulfuric acid for electroplating, I noticed when using 2B graphite pencil leads as the anode they'll turn into a foam ontop of the solution that seems to itself act as an anode, keeping things going even after the leads in the water should have dissolved, but it required a lot of leads to get mostly dissolved to make the foam. A cotton ball packed tightly into the bottom of a funnel cleared it out spectacularly when I was done with it.
More electrolytes on the outer side wants to dilute. It pulls water to dilute. Similar to osmosis water flows to the side with more salts. Water drops on the dilute side and rises on the salty side unless it is in balance.
@@ottovon1183 Water does not exactly "flow" but it will diffuse through any porous material. If you fill an unglazed pot with water, outside will get moist. Things like pressure can affect matters like capillary effect, osmosis etc.
@@hoggif Right so there are several different factors that can affect the rate of Osmosis, and Im sure that since the water level is lower in the sulphuric acid the capillary effect should be minimal in terms of losing sulphuric acid. But Im asking if sulphuric acid is affected by osmosis and if some of it ends up in the salt solution. Im not sure if only the water is considered a solvent or if sulphuric is one as well in this case.
Finding and using a terracotta clay pot with NO hole in the bottom will stop the transfer. great video between you and the no hole guy I feel confident I can pull this off cheers
I think that what you are plating out is sulphuric acid disolving iron out of the terra cotta separator and the iron migrates to the catholyte side and forms ferrous ammonium sulphate which plates out on cathode. Yes and as others have said osmosis takes water out of the anolyte, and the anode compartment then fills with acid at a constant strength. The rate of water osmosis into the amonia through the separator will ballance with the water sucked from the air by the concentrated acid, stabilising the acid strength.
Interestingly, I actually tested the fertiliser to see whether the metal content was from the pot or the fertiliser itself. I ended up electrolysing a solution of the fertiliser with no electrode separation at all, and still ended up getting metal plating out on the cathode, so I've concluded that there must be some kind of metal contamination in there (probably zinc). Nothing that can't be fixed with a recrystallisation though.
@@ScrapScience Why you don't try to make electrolysis apparatus with Epsom salt used a magnesium Anode as positive to collect magnesium metal to the anode just like copper sulphate method?? Or it doesn't work this way??☺️
Since I posted my osmosis comment below I did some more reading. As sulphuric acid in the pot becomes more concentrated it may actually draw some water back into the clay pot, especially as the ammonium hydroxide precipitates out in the cathode chamber. On the other hand this change in volumes might be too small to observe, or the sulphuric acid might not become concentrated enough to attract water back. (" I am a firm believer, that without speculation there is no good and original observation," Johannes Kepler)
Ammonium Hydroxide won't precipitate out. Ammonium Hydroxide is not a stable substance you can isolate. It is a notional name for a solution of ammonia gas in water, of which, a very small proportion will be ionised (ammonium and hydroxide ions) in the absence of any counter anion. Ammonia gas will be emited over time as the catholyte solution becomes more basic.
I believe it is osmotic pressure that's drawing the water out of the pot and into the main container. If you were to put some sulfuric acid in the pot to begin with it might lessen the problem. (I know, you did this 4 years ago and have it all figured out now.)
Ammonia loves water,ammonia solution dragged back the water from the pot ,once its generated in the cathode chamber ,and converted the h2so4 generated in the pot back to sulphate
worked out why water level dropping. must be merely high salt concentration solution pulling water. as in, lower concentration solution always goes towards high concentration solution, across membrane.
Could it be that the specific gravity of the H2SO4 is greater than the ammonium sulfate solution, pushing the denser liquid thru the walls of the flower pot? Will the slow addition of H2O2 consume any particles of Carbon, giving off CO2. I've purified drain cleaner with H2O2 by warming on a hot plate while adding the H2O2 until the acid clears up, then boiling down to remove the excess water. If no reaction, then the brown color might be iron oxide leaching from the terra cotta pottery
Pretty awesome and amazingly interesting. Question is it possible to use battery fluid acid, which is sulfuric acid but only 35 to 45% can be substituted for salt?
Have you tried this process by heating the water your mixing the ammonium sulfate and creating a saturated or near saturated solution of the ammonium sulfate to see if it increases the concentration of Acid produced?
14:41 explain this methode plz and Also make video on con test for Dilute Acid ? Just for compression plz Tell me that .... what is the mol value of 100% pure h2so3 , and mol value of H2so4 of Battey acid 35% ?
Sorry, I can't explain the basics of stoichiometry calculations in a UA-cam comment, and I have no plans on making a video explaining this (nor do I have any plans on making a video about testing acid concentration). You'll have to do some research here if you want to understand the maths. I don't know if I really understand your other question. 100% sulfuric acid is around 18 mol/L concentration, and 35% battery acid is around 5 mol/L, if that's what you're asking.
Can you help me ... 1:25 list like this I bought NPK : 13 00 45 also labelled as Potassium Nitrate from Manufacturer " SCB " as source of potassium and Nitrate ion . But the problem is it doesn't seems KNO3 Because i did some Test ... ( I have very little amount of KNO3 20 gram ) , first i compared npk130045 with my 20grm Kno3 using 2 methode * - 1st by mixing both salt with suger fule separately but Only 20gr one worked but npk didn't . Than i tried to purify it by recrystallization but same failure *- 2nd i mixed both salt with HCl to form Nitric acid but only 20gr one was succeed and crystalized npk didn't , i conformed this by dissolving cu in that . Than i concluded may be it's not Pure Kno3 but mixture of potash ( which is mostly KCl And than Kno3 and rest potassium salt ) since it's written NPK = 13 00 45 which mean there is only 13 % Nitrogen , zero Phosphate and 45 percent KNO3 salt !! 3rd Than i did chlorine ion test in NPK 130045 by simply doing Electrolysis of the NPK solution to find any Cl gas smells but i was surprised There was also no Chlorine ions 4th *- i also did Flame test of NPK 130045 to conform Potassium , in this case it's indeed Potassium based but unknown salt because of light purple flame . 5th*- i also did K2CO3 carbonate test by double displacing Npk ( thinking it's K2CO3 ) with CaCl2 To see if there any calcium carbonate forms which is cloudy by but results was disappointed again , no precipitation of CaCO3 ! So......... If This NPK is indeed a salt of Potassium but not KCl , not KNO3 , Not KCO3 , Not KOH than what is it ? It's like mystery for me 😓😕😔 😤 And why they labelled it NPk 130045 And Potassium Nitrate it's not even potash as mentioned above ??
The minimum voltage for the reaction to proceed is the standard voltage for splitting water when the anode is under acidic conditions and the cathode is under basic conditions (approximately 2.06 V). If you increase the voltage past that, the energy efficiency decreases, but the reaction proceeds faster due to the resulting increased current.
To react with sugar, the sulfuric acid must be much more concentrated. If you've got the necessary equipment, you could boil it down to concentrate it, but it will not react with sugar alone.
when we add H2O to boiling solution of AlSO4 (alum) then we get AlSO4 + H2O --------> Al(OH) + H2SO4 but Al(OH) reacts with H2SO4 and we get Al(OH) + H2SO4 -------> AlSO4 + H2O any Idea how can we separate Al(OH) and H2SO4 ? and get the H2SO4 out before it reacts Hope u help. Thanks
Either way is fine. I preferred to have the anode on the inside of the pot because it allows for a smaller volume of solution, allowing the concentration of acid to get higher at a faster rate.
You need more like 300 C to get rid of all the water, but yes it's possible. This is far from an easy task though, since the copious acidic fumes, the violent boiling, and the dangers of hot sulfuric acid make this process a complete nightmare.
I saw patents they done the same with gypsum. But to incrase effecency they washed around the Anodes SO2 Gas. The Atomic Oxigen there oxydize it to SO3 …..
I found some pure Platinum wire online for what seems to be a reasonable price. If it were to be used as an anode and a cathode it wouldn't corrode at all, right? Would other metals work aswell - i.e. Gold?
Yep! Both gold and platinum will make good electrode choices here with little to no corrosion (provided your fertiliser source doesn't have any chloride in it). I'd recommend only using the precious metals for the anode though, since that's the only electrode which is susceptible to oxidation. Simple copper wire is an effective choice for the cathode, since it's protected from corrosion by the reducing potential.
hi , i used 12 volt battery . i used lead anode and copper cathode . the battery cathode become too hot makes the wire almost melting . and i used pc power supply but also it was broken down ?
Just proposing an odd theory as to why the pot drained so much to the outside tub, no research just conjecture ... Could it be that the surface area on the outside of the clay pot is greater, and the wicking effect is proportional to the surface area (I.e., capillary action of sorts?) ... This could be tested by: A. Sealing 3/4 of the outside surface so the interior wicking surface is greater, and seeing if the water flow is reversed, or B. simply reversing the anode and cathode and putting the fertiliser on the inside chamber :) ... Another point: If the water can flow through the pot, maybe the pot is too porous and therefore some of the fertiliser can migrate also (contaminating the S acid?) Cheeers, super video and science lesson :)
@@user-py9cy1sy9u a bit late there mate... already fixed it all found a video where you can use cardboard or paper... your response is still useless doesn't tell me what ai can use in place of clay lmao
@@malcolmcliff-du8qp Sorry for watching this video too late and not instantly you asked your question. Also that answers is not only for you but for other people as well. A cardboard has chemicals that will contaminate your acid if used in cell. You need something that is resistant to both acid and base
I would definitely avoid lead dioxide entirely, especially if it was originally made from a lead rod. If the fertiliser is anything less than 100% pure (which all fertilisers are) then you'll end up generating a small amount of soluble lead salts in your product, which is definitely something to avoid if you don't have the equipment and expertise to deal with it. The only reason I'd use a lead dioxide anode is if the starting material is lab grade, distilled water is used, and the diaphragm hadn't ever been used before. Even then, I'd stick with professionally made titanium substrate anodes rather than an anode made directly from lead metal.
I'm afraid not. Hypochlorite ions will probably be oxidised by the anode to chloric acid, which will likely decompose to form perchloric acid. Feel free to give it a go though, I've never tried it. Just make sure to do it outside
It's basic chemistry knowledge to be able to calculate in/to moles. Sulfuric acid is 98,079 gram per mol, so a 1 molar solution will contain 98,079 gram of sulfuric acid per liter, which is 9,808% w/v.
Yes, a salt bridge will definitely work as well, however, a clay pot can handle much more current than a simple salt bridge, making it better for large scale reactions like this one. Making HNO3 from KNO3 is a plan for a future video, though it will be a long while away as nitrates are illegal to buy here in Australia, so I'll need to obtain the nitrates from nitrogen rich soil and chicken manure, but it will be uploaded eventually.
Can you use stainless steel electrode or lead so you dont get the carbon in the acid? I know i use lead for my gold deplateing and it seems to well with 95percent sulfuric acid
Stainless steel won't really work I'm afraid. The extremely acidic, corrosive conditions of the anodic potential are just too much for the electrode to handle. Lead could be used (provided your initial sulfate source is extremely pure), but even then, you'll likely end up with a bunch of toxic lead dioxide filling the solution to some degree. Not to mention the fact that you'll have to deal with a whole bunch of oxidised lead on the electrode once you're done (not easy to do safely). If you can get hold of one, it would be a much better option to use a platinum plated titanium mesh as the anode. These are getting much cheaper and more available these days, and will last almost indefinitely as an anode for this process (without filling your solution with particulates of any kind).
1) Voltage and current determine the energy efficiency of the process and the reaction speed respectively. The process is more efficient at low voltages, and the reaction proceeds faster at higher currents. 2) There is no real 'finish time' of the reaction. The extent to which the ions are able to transfer will taper off over time in a logarithmic fashion, as the concentration of the initial sulfate salt decreases. 3) This experiment is based on many electrochemical principles (ion migration, water electrolysis, porous barrier diaphragm cells, etc.). I've provided links to the most relevant research papers to this experiment below: link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-319-95022-8_155 www.researchgate.net/publication/244170635_Salt_splitting_in_a_three-compartment_membrane_electrolysis_cell electrosynthesis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Watts-new-salt-splitting.pdf If you want more info, search for any research involving 'salt splitting'.
I'm not sure I quite follow your question there. But if I'm understanding correctly, the purity of the acid is entirely based on the purity of the starting material salt, and the material you use for the porous barrier (a clay pot will allow for good purity, but will introduce possible iron contamination). Using graphite as an anode will also fill the acid solution with flakes of carbon, and cause the acid to turn somewhat yellow (platinum would do best if this is a concern).
You could, but the reaction rate is directly determined by the current, so a high amperage is favourable if you want to make the greatest quantity of acid in a short period of time.
It depends on how much sulfuric acid you need, how concentrated you need it, and how expensive your drain cleaner is. This method is only really viable for making small amounts of dilute acid. Large amounts of the concentrated stuff are much easier to get from drain cleaner. With a properly constructed, continually running cell, this method might compete with the cost of using drain cleaner as an acid source, but it's a lot more difficult to set up than a distillation.
Yep. That's correct. The concentration very much depends on the volume of the cell and how long you run it for though, so these numbers aren't representative of the process in general, just an example of the concentration that can be achieved quickly.
@@ScrapScience i make suplihuric acid using thin platinum wire and copper sulphate but it is pretty expensive now i will try your method . Magnesium sulfate and lead dioxide anode . Is lead dioxide suitable for this process or( carbon, platinum ) are mandatory because now I am making one ???
If you have platinum wire, it is very much ideal for this process, and I'd recommend using it. Lead/lead dioxide will work, but it will inevitably contaminate your cell and acid solution with small amounts of soluble lead, especially if your sulfate source is not absolutely 100% pure. If you have the setup to deal with that contamination, and can responsibly dispose of the lead waste, then go for it. Otherwise, a platinum anode will last pretty much forever in this process, provided you don't introduce any chloride to the cell.
Technically, ammonium sulfate should be more efficient than magnesium sulfate. However, the difference is likely very small, so you should use whichever sulfate you can get cheaper (in terms of moles, not mass).
filtering the sulfuric acid through cotton and activated carbon seems to remove the yellowing, but idk if it interferes with the acid in some way, and it takes awhile edit: after filtering, i measured the density, 1.2 is the density, the temperature here is bout 20 c i put my values on the first table of sulfuric acid density vs concentration and it gave me 28% by weight sulfuric acid, it gave the exact same in the past, which most definitively it inst, something is wrong so cant rely on density or this table it reacts with copper, that's good, with ammonium bicarb too, i added a small square of copper, ill come back in a few hours and see if it all dissolved edit: ok it didnt dissolve at all, it looked like it was reacting so something else was happening ok it did, just took half a day to dissolve practically nothing
This is true, a lead metal anode will form a protective oxide surface when electrolysing sulfate solutions. However, if the initial sulfate source has any degree of impurity in it, the lead will quickly dissolve into solution. Since fertiliser is often impure, I'd stay well clear of using a lead anode unless you can purify the sulfate somehow.
A couple of recrystallisations would probably be fine. The small contaminants present in the clay pot may be of concern though, I'm not sure. Either way, you should always be fully prepared for lead contamination in your solution when using a lead anode. Even lead sulfate is somewhat soluble in acidic contitions, and will form even if your starting materials are perfectly pure.
I'm afraid so. The titanium will form a passivating layer which will prevent further current flow when used as an anode. Technically, only carbon and platinum (and possibly iridium/tantalum oxides on a titanium substrate) will give you a product completely free of chemical impurity.
@@ScrapScience Hey, I followed you copper sulphate version too.... used 200ml deionised water and 40g of copper sulphate but I think it will need to be boiler down ALLOT to be concentrated.
Yeah, if you did the reaction to completion, you should have approximately 10% acid, so it will require a lot of boiling down (assuming you can do that safely) in order to get concentrated stuff.
For sulphuric acid, 96% concentration is about 18 molar. It is literally the number of moles of material per liter, where a mole is Avagadro's number of 6.023 x 10^23 molecules. I seem to have learned that fairly well 40 years ago!
In the comments at the original video, a questioner asked, 'So, what is a One Molar solution?' I offered: Modern-day chemistry calculates the amount of a material in 'moles'. So one mole of a sustance is its atomic weight (strictly mass) or for compiunds, its formula weight (mass) in grammes: For example, the lightest weight element has an atomic weight of 1. So Imole of hydrogen atoms weighs 1gramme. And 1mole of hydrogen molecules, H2, weigh 2grammes. Oxygen atoms weigh 16 times motre than hydrogen atoms, so 1mole of water molecules (H2O) weigh 18 grammes. And 1mole of pure hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) weighs 34grammes. (Yes, for the cognoccenti, Atomic Weights are properly called Relative Atomic Masses. And, yes, the 'Atomic Weights' I'm referring to are rounded figures to make the explanation, I hope, fairly clear) Finally, a 1Molar solution of anything contains 1mole of the dissolved 'stuff' in 1litre of the final solution. So a 1molar solution of sulphuric acis (H2SO4 = 2+32+64 'Molar Mass' = 98) contains 98grammes of sulphuric acid in one litre of solution and pro-rata for smaller amounts of solution, or larger. Finally, the use of this is that one can calculate amounts needed or produced by taking the chemical equation and these 'Relative Molar Masses'. Which is a lot simpler and revealing than the old 'Equivalent Weights' and 'Normalities' upon which I was originally brought up, nearly sixty years' ago. I **love** chemistry!
Wouldn't it be easier to use a salt bridge between the two solutions by using a filter paper dipped in the solute? That way you'll have purer sulfuric acid and almost no contaminants?! I'd used the above for a common salt solution and got pure sodium hydroxide in the cathode and chlorine water in the anode maybe you you could apply that in a future video!
Yep, that’d certainly work to generate a purer product, however, the point of the clay pot is to carry much more current so that a much higher concentration of sulfuric acid can be achieved in a shorter time. Paper towel salt bridges tend to increase the resistance of the cell so much that the production of whatever you’re making is unreasonably slow. I’ve just found that clay pots are quicker and easier.
If you use a filter paper or pretty much anything that's organic as a salt Bridge then it will dissolve in the anode chamber as h2so4 is formed and it will turn Brown and impure that's why I believe this method with the terracotta pot to my knowledge is the best way👏👏scrap science
There's no technical theoretical limit before reaching close to 100% concentration. In practice however, you're limited by the fact that highly concentrated acid is not very conductive, and by product leaking through the diaphragm. This all assumes you can run your cell for an infinite time too, but that's not realistic either. For a finite running time,, your concentration will depend on your initial sulfate concentration and the current you can push though the cell. I've heard reports of people making over 50% concentration using a fancy fibreglass diaphragm, but I highly doubt anything over 70% would be feasible.
I ended up buying some welding carbons on ebay and removed their copper coating in another video. Removing the carbon rods from zinc carbon batteries also works quite well.
It's not actually the electrons that move through the water/pot, while they do carry charge in the wires, its actually dissolved ions which carry current through the aqueous solution. The clay pot also acts as a porous membrane in this case, rather than being a completely solid object, so that the ions are free to pass through it.
Hmm interesting here in Canada U can buy drain cleaner Sulfuric acid 80 percent and buy from Prolab Scientific 98 percent Sulfuric acid. Electroylsis hmm.
BUT HOW THE RESULTING LIQUID TRANSFERRED TO THE ANODE POT?? HOW?? THERE IS NO PIPE BETWEEN THE 2 POTS!!! AND LIQUID DOES NOT TRANSFERRED IN ELECTRIC WIRES IN THE 2 POTS!!! AGAIN:=HOW THE RESULTING LIQUID IS TRANSFERRED TO THE ANODE POT???
Really, you don't know why the water is being pulled from one side to the other? Very simple mechanics at work here, mate. I could tell you and maybe I will later on just what's happening with the water displacement. Also, this in my opinion is the wrong system for this type of work. A better chose would have been Two tanks with a membrane in between the two to separate the two fluids just like what's done to make Hydrogen Gas. This is not the only way to do this. I'll finish watching your video before finishing my comment. Well I want you all that's happening because you need to learn what, why, and how's. There is an Electromagnet working here and water that contains metals. Do you get where I'm going with this? Study up. Just my opinion and it really counts for nothing young man. Thank you for the upload.
Are you literally stupid? First, this is literally the same system as two tanks with a membrane between but in this case the membrane is the second tank so it's more efficient and easier, second, wtf does electromagnetism have to do with this, there's NO electromagnet here and he's working with non-ferrous compounds, the reason the water moved is because of osmosis, go to school before you comment wrong information on UA-cam videos
@@elyesgrati I take it you don't like my comment. You didn't have to be rude mate. Just an opinion. Right or Wrong, it's up to you to decide. More things going on here than you think. I'm right about this. Right? It sure took you a very long time in the response to my comment. You just need to study a bit more. Again, thanks for the upload.
@@kennedy67951 i just saw your comment and i wasn't trying to be rude, still this isn't a matter of opinion, you were factually wrong and i tried to correct you
Can you help me ... 1:25 list like this I bought NPK : 13 00 45 also labelled as Potassium Nitrate from Manufacturer " SCB " as source of potassium and Nitrate ion . But the problem is it doesn't seems KNO3 Because i did some Test ... ( I have very little amount of KNO3 20 gram ) , first i compared npk130045 with my 20grm Kno3 using 2 methode * - 1st by mixing both salt with suger fule separately but Only 20gr one worked but npk didn't . Than i tried to purify it by recrystallization but same failure *- 2nd i mixed both salt with HCl to form Nitric acid but only 20gr one was succeed and crystalized npk didn't , i conformed this by dissolving cu in that . Than i concluded may be it's not Pure Kno3 but mixture of potash ( which is mostly KCl And than Kno3 and rest potassium salt ) since it's written NPK = 13 00 45 which mean there is only 13 % Nitrogen , zero Phosphate and 45 percent KNO3 salt !! 3rd Than i did chlorine ion test in NPK 130045 by simply doing Electrolysis of the NPK solution to find any Cl gas smells but i was surprised There was also no Chlorine ions 4th *- i also did Flame test of NPK 130045 to conform Potassium , in this case it's indeed Potassium based but unknown salt because of light purple flame . 5th*- i also did K2CO3 carbonate test by double displacing Npk ( thinking it's K2CO3 ) with CaCl2 To see if there any calcium carbonate forms which is cloudy by but results was disappointed again , no precipitation of CaCO3 ! So......... If This NPK is indeed a salt of Potassium but not KCl , not KNO3 , Not KCO3 , Not KOH than what is it .. ? It's like mystery for me 😓😕😔 😤 And why they labelled it NPk 130045 And Potassium Nitrate it's not even potash as mentioned above ??
I don't really know how to help you here. I've never heard of the manufacturer 'SCB', so I don't know what it could be. From the results of your tests, I'd probably assume it to be potassium sulfate or something, but since no precipitate forms upon addition to calcium chloride, I think it most likely contains potassium chloride with a small amount of impurity. Your electrolysis test may have failed due to this impurity. You could make a more selective test for chloride by testing for a precipitate with silver nitrate, if you have that available to you. I'm afraid that's all I can say with the available information.
I enjoy watching your work. Just a comment on your water loss from the anode chamber - good old garden variety osmosis. Water is moving from highest concentration in the pot to lower concentration in the salt rich cathode chamber. The only way to stop that would be to have an equimolar compound in the anode chamber. Would need to be non-ionic and also not react with sulphuric acid. That would also prevent dilution of the salt in the cathodic chamber over time. Good luck with that - I can't think of any water soluble compound that will not react with sulphuric acid in the anode chamber.
Interesting, thanks for the info. Having the water level drop isn't too much of a hassle anyway, seeing as it can just be topped up at the end. I was under the impression that it would be some electrolytic effect or something, this makes much more sense.
@@ScrapScience Did you try using RO membrane? It doesn't result in loss of the fluid in the compartment where Sulphuric acid is kept, I guess because membrane pore size is much smaller than that of the clay pot. So osmosis is not so fast without applying significant pressure from the pump, either mechanical like RO units or electromechanical like here.
@TMoD7007 Good point - but surely that would be balanced by production of H2 from H2O at the cathode?
@@ScrapScience That reminds me of this video: ua-cam.com/video/zzVa_tX1OiI/v-deo.html
The voltage across the membrane probably makes the water loss from regular osmosis even worse.
Support excessive pressure in a cathode chamber ?
Try adding some hydrogen peroxide to the H2SO4 you made and boil it until the peroxide bubbles off.
This should oxidize the carbon impurity(as CO2), if that's what it is, hopefully leaving the solution clear.
I was just about to try and produce sulfuric acid with the same method
thanks for the insight!
Old Video, but I've been using the magnesium sulfate one to get sulfuric acid for electroplating, I noticed when using 2B graphite pencil leads as the anode they'll turn into a foam ontop of the solution that seems to itself act as an anode, keeping things going even after the leads in the water should have dissolved, but it required a lot of leads to get mostly dissolved to make the foam. A cotton ball packed tightly into the bottom of a funnel cleared it out spectacularly when I was done with it.
More electrolytes on the outer side wants to dilute. It pulls water to dilute. Similar to osmosis water flows to the side with more salts. Water drops on the dilute side and rises on the salty side unless it is in balance.
Hey I know this is an old comment. But is only the water flowing through the clay pot to equalize or is some of the sulphuric acid going over as well?
@@ottovon1183 Water does not exactly "flow" but it will diffuse through any porous material. If you fill an unglazed pot with water, outside will get moist. Things like pressure can affect matters like capillary effect, osmosis etc.
@@hoggif Right so there are several different factors that can affect the rate of Osmosis, and Im sure that since the water level is lower in the sulphuric acid the capillary effect should be minimal in terms of losing sulphuric acid. But Im asking if sulphuric acid is affected by osmosis and if some of it ends up in the salt solution. Im not sure if only the water is considered a solvent or if sulphuric is one as well in this case.
Although 1 mol isn't too concentrated, this is still a fun way to play around, esp since required items are readily avail and inexpensive.
Finding and using a terracotta clay pot with NO hole in the bottom will stop the transfer. great video between you and the no hole guy I feel confident I can pull this off cheers
I think that what you are plating out is sulphuric acid disolving iron out of the terra cotta separator and the iron migrates to the catholyte side and forms ferrous ammonium sulphate which plates out on cathode.
Yes and as others have said osmosis takes water out of the anolyte, and the anode compartment then fills with acid at a constant strength. The rate of water osmosis into the amonia through the separator will ballance with the water sucked from the air by the concentrated acid, stabilising the acid strength.
Interestingly, I actually tested the fertiliser to see whether the metal content was from the pot or the fertiliser itself. I ended up electrolysing a solution of the fertiliser with no electrode separation at all, and still ended up getting metal plating out on the cathode, so I've concluded that there must be some kind of metal contamination in there (probably zinc). Nothing that can't be fixed with a recrystallisation though.
@@ScrapScience Why you don't try to make electrolysis apparatus with Epsom salt used a magnesium Anode as positive to collect magnesium metal to the anode just like copper sulphate method?? Or it doesn't work this way??☺️
Brillliant!
Since I posted my osmosis comment below I did some more reading. As sulphuric acid in the pot becomes more concentrated it may actually draw some water back into the clay pot, especially as the ammonium hydroxide precipitates out in the cathode chamber. On the other hand this change in volumes might be too small to observe, or the sulphuric acid might not become concentrated enough to attract water back. (" I am a firm believer, that without speculation there is no good and original observation," Johannes Kepler)
Ammonium Hydroxide won't precipitate out. Ammonium Hydroxide is not a stable substance you can isolate. It is a notional name for a solution of ammonia gas in water, of which, a very small proportion will be ionised (ammonium and hydroxide ions) in the absence of any counter anion. Ammonia gas will be emited over time as the catholyte solution becomes more basic.
gazzarrr666 then it precipitates UP!
You can heat it up a little, 50c will do the job, it will drive the amo out and push forward the reaction.
I believe it is osmotic pressure that's drawing the water out of the pot and into the main container. If you were to put some sulfuric acid in the pot to begin with it might lessen the problem. (I know, you did this 4 years ago and have it all figured out now.)
Ammonia loves water,ammonia solution dragged back the water from the pot ,once its generated in the cathode chamber ,and converted the h2so4 generated in the pot back to sulphate
worked out why water level dropping. must be merely high salt concentration solution pulling water. as in, lower concentration solution always goes towards high concentration solution, across membrane.
Could it be that the specific gravity of the H2SO4 is greater than the ammonium sulfate solution, pushing the denser liquid thru the walls of the flower pot? Will the slow addition of H2O2 consume any particles of Carbon, giving off CO2. I've purified drain cleaner with H2O2 by warming on a hot plate while adding the H2O2 until the acid clears up, then boiling down to remove the excess water. If no reaction, then the brown color might be iron oxide leaching from the terra cotta pottery
Is that good (clean) enough sulfuric acid for refilling lead-acid batteries?
Edit: maybe, after distilling the acid
Blooming clever thanks
The black coloured product maybe the most desirable form of carbon, graphene. Would love to see you make some graphene by electrolysis only.
Pretty awesome and amazingly interesting. Question is it possible to use battery fluid acid, which is sulfuric acid but only 35 to 45% can be substituted for salt?
Have you tried this process by heating the water your mixing the ammonium sulfate and creating a saturated or near saturated solution of the ammonium sulfate to see if it increases the concentration of Acid produced?
isnt it the pot thats actually pushing the water out? i mean its designed to hold flowers and soil, maybe its made in a special way for it to do that.
I wonder if the colour in the final product is maybe from iron leaching from the clay pot rather from the carbon rods.
Osmotic pressure is why the water flows to the outside container.
14:41 explain this methode plz and
Also make video on con test for Dilute Acid ?
Just for compression plz Tell me that ....
what is the mol value of 100% pure h2so3 , and mol value of H2so4 of Battey acid 35% ?
Sorry, I can't explain the basics of stoichiometry calculations in a UA-cam comment, and I have no plans on making a video explaining this (nor do I have any plans on making a video about testing acid concentration). You'll have to do some research here if you want to understand the maths.
I don't know if I really understand your other question. 100% sulfuric acid is around 18 mol/L concentration, and 35% battery acid is around 5 mol/L, if that's what you're asking.
Can you help me ...
1:25 list like this I bought
NPK : 13 00 45 also labelled as Potassium Nitrate from Manufacturer " SCB " as source of potassium and Nitrate ion . But the problem is it doesn't seems KNO3 Because i did some Test ...
( I have very little amount of KNO3 20 gram ) , first i compared npk130045 with my 20grm Kno3 using 2 methode
* - 1st by mixing both salt with suger fule separately but Only 20gr one worked but npk didn't .
Than i tried to purify it by recrystallization but same failure
*- 2nd i mixed both salt with HCl to form Nitric acid but only 20gr one was succeed and crystalized npk didn't , i conformed this by dissolving cu in that .
Than i concluded may be it's not Pure Kno3 but mixture of potash ( which is mostly KCl And than Kno3 and rest potassium salt ) since it's written
NPK = 13 00 45 which mean there is only 13 % Nitrogen , zero Phosphate and 45 percent KNO3 salt !!
3rd Than i did chlorine ion test in NPK 130045 by simply doing Electrolysis of the NPK solution to find any Cl gas smells but i was surprised There was also no Chlorine ions
4th *- i also did Flame test of NPK 130045 to conform Potassium , in this case it's indeed Potassium based but unknown salt because of light purple flame .
5th*- i also did K2CO3 carbonate test by double displacing Npk ( thinking it's K2CO3 ) with CaCl2 To see if there any calcium carbonate forms which is cloudy by but results was disappointed again , no precipitation of CaCO3 !
So.........
If This NPK is indeed a salt of Potassium but not KCl , not KNO3 , Not KCO3 , Not KOH than what is it ?
It's like mystery for me 😓😕😔 😤 And why they labelled it NPk 130045 And
Potassium Nitrate it's not even potash as mentioned above ??
U can still benefit from the sulphate fert ,convert it to sodium sulphate ,and u will forget about ammonia sucking back the water from the pot
Great work. How about gypsum, i.e. plaster / calcium sulphate? Maybe even cheaper.
Calcium sulfate does work, but due to the extremely low solubility in water, the reaction is much less efficient and extremely slow.
Remember to block hole in flower pot, wondering what minimum voltage
would work to increase efficiency.
The minimum voltage for the reaction to proceed is the standard voltage for splitting water when the anode is under acidic conditions and the cathode is under basic conditions (approximately 2.06 V). If you increase the voltage past that, the energy efficiency decreases, but the reaction proceeds faster due to the resulting increased current.
1 molar sulfuric acid is strong enough to react with sugar?
To react with sugar, the sulfuric acid must be much more concentrated. If you've got the necessary equipment, you could boil it down to concentrate it, but it will not react with sugar alone.
Have you done any further research into why the water transfers from the diaphragm to the outer chamber during the reaction?
Osmosis.
@@elektrobear2027 What is osmosis?
@@fusion5329 how old are you? All your questions are retarded AF
@@elyesgrati What do you expect from someone with the username "ur mum gay"
when we add H2O to boiling solution of AlSO4 (alum) then we get
AlSO4 + H2O --------> Al(OH) + H2SO4
but Al(OH) reacts with H2SO4 and we get
Al(OH) + H2SO4 -------> AlSO4 + H2O
any Idea how can we separate Al(OH) and H2SO4 ? and get the H2SO4 out before it reacts
Hope u help.
Thanks
You won't be able to do it that way, try electrolysis
The yellow colour I’m certain is from the clay pot not the carbon, I used platinum electrodes and got the same colour
does it matter if the anode chamber is the clay pot? Or what stops you from having the cathode chamber being the clay pot?
Either way is fine. I preferred to have the anode on the inside of the pot because it allows for a smaller volume of solution, allowing the concentration of acid to get higher at a faster rate.
If sulphuric acid is very clean but just diluted, can you not evaporate all the water off at 200 deg C?
You need more like 300 C to get rid of all the water, but yes it's possible. This is far from an easy task though, since the copious acidic fumes, the violent boiling, and the dangers of hot sulfuric acid make this process a complete nightmare.
I saw patents they done the same with gypsum. But to incrase effecency they washed around the Anodes SO2 Gas. The Atomic Oxigen there oxydize it to SO3 …..
Does all sulphate metal and ion work to give sulfuric acid by elctrolysis like FeSO4, MgSO4, MnSO4, CuSO4 or so..
Yep. Some metal ions may plate onto the cathode when using salts based on transition metals though.
I found some pure Platinum wire online for what seems to be a reasonable price. If it were to be used as an anode and a cathode it wouldn't corrode at all, right? Would other metals work aswell - i.e. Gold?
Yep! Both gold and platinum will make good electrode choices here with little to no corrosion (provided your fertiliser source doesn't have any chloride in it).
I'd recommend only using the precious metals for the anode though, since that's the only electrode which is susceptible to oxidation. Simple copper wire is an effective choice for the cathode, since it's protected from corrosion by the reducing potential.
@@ScrapScience TYVM!
hi , i used 12 volt battery . i used lead anode and copper cathode . the battery cathode become too hot makes the wire almost melting . and i used pc power supply but also it was broken down ?
Just proposing an odd theory as to why the pot drained so much to the outside tub, no research just conjecture ... Could it be that the surface area on the outside of the clay pot is greater, and the wicking effect is proportional to the surface area (I.e., capillary action of sorts?) ... This could be tested by: A. Sealing 3/4 of the outside surface so the interior wicking surface is greater, and seeing if the water flow is reversed, or B. simply reversing the anode and cathode and putting the fertiliser on the inside chamber :) ... Another point: If the water can flow through the pot, maybe the pot is too porous and therefore some of the fertiliser can migrate also (contaminating the S acid?) Cheeers, super video and science lesson :)
Can stainless steel be used in place of clay pot?
No. You need something that ions can pass trough
@@user-py9cy1sy9u a bit late there mate... already fixed it all found a video where you can use cardboard or paper... your response is still useless doesn't tell me what ai can use in place of clay lmao
@@malcolmcliff-du8qp Sorry for watching this video too late and not instantly you asked your question. Also that answers is not only for you but for other people as well.
A cardboard has chemicals that will contaminate your acid if used in cell. You need something that is resistant to both acid and base
@@user-py9cy1sy9u well worked for me... thanks anyway👍
Hi. Can I use a lead dioxide anode as I do with the copper sulphate method? Ammonium sulphate is under £20 for 25kg bag in the UK
I would definitely avoid lead dioxide entirely, especially if it was originally made from a lead rod. If the fertiliser is anything less than 100% pure (which all fertilisers are) then you'll end up generating a small amount of soluble lead salts in your product, which is definitely something to avoid if you don't have the equipment and expertise to deal with it.
The only reason I'd use a lead dioxide anode is if the starting material is lab grade, distilled water is used, and the diaphragm hadn't ever been used before. Even then, I'd stick with professionally made titanium substrate anodes rather than an anode made directly from lead metal.
@@ScrapSciencei want paper or patents your research
This is useful for making hypochlorous acid too, right?
I'm afraid not. Hypochlorite ions will probably be oxidised by the anode to chloric acid, which will likely decompose to form perchloric acid.
Feel free to give it a go though, I've never tried it. Just make sure to do it outside
1 Mol sulphuric acid. What is the percentage please?
It's basic chemistry knowledge to be able to calculate in/to moles. Sulfuric acid is 98,079 gram per mol, so a 1 molar solution will contain 98,079 gram of sulfuric acid per liter, which is 9,808% w/v.
why you use cley pot🙂
Salt bridge also work🙂
plese make hno3 from kno3
Yes, a salt bridge will definitely work as well, however, a clay pot can handle much more current than a simple salt bridge, making it better for large scale reactions like this one.
Making HNO3 from KNO3 is a plan for a future video, though it will be a long while away as nitrates are illegal to buy here in Australia, so I'll need to obtain the nitrates from nitrogen rich soil and chicken manure, but it will be uploaded eventually.
thank you very much😉
you can get some grams of kno3 from match head ☺️it is essey
Again, thank-you. One glitch might be absoption of the generated ammonia by the acidic anolyte . . .
Can you use stainless steel electrode or lead so you dont get the carbon in the acid? I know i use lead for my gold deplateing and it seems to well with 95percent sulfuric acid
Stainless steel won't really work I'm afraid. The extremely acidic, corrosive conditions of the anodic potential are just too much for the electrode to handle.
Lead could be used (provided your initial sulfate source is extremely pure), but even then, you'll likely end up with a bunch of toxic lead dioxide filling the solution to some degree. Not to mention the fact that you'll have to deal with a whole bunch of oxidised lead on the electrode once you're done (not easy to do safely).
If you can get hold of one, it would be a much better option to use a platinum plated titanium mesh as the anode. These are getting much cheaper and more available these days, and will last almost indefinitely as an anode for this process (without filling your solution with particulates of any kind).
What of voltage and current uses ?.
how know finsh time of reaction ?
i want patent or research of this experiment ?
1) Voltage and current determine the energy efficiency of the process and the reaction speed respectively. The process is more efficient at low voltages, and the reaction proceeds faster at higher currents.
2) There is no real 'finish time' of the reaction. The extent to which the ions are able to transfer will taper off over time in a logarithmic fashion, as the concentration of the initial sulfate salt decreases.
3) This experiment is based on many electrochemical principles (ion migration, water electrolysis, porous barrier diaphragm cells, etc.). I've provided links to the most relevant research papers to this experiment below:
link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-319-95022-8_155
www.researchgate.net/publication/244170635_Salt_splitting_in_a_three-compartment_membrane_electrolysis_cell
electrosynthesis.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Watts-new-salt-splitting.pdf
If you want more info, search for any research involving 'salt splitting'.
@@ScrapScience thank you for interesting and your answer
are that reaction product acid with impurity ??
I'm not sure I quite follow your question there. But if I'm understanding correctly, the purity of the acid is entirely based on the purity of the starting material salt, and the material you use for the porous barrier (a clay pot will allow for good purity, but will introduce possible iron contamination). Using graphite as an anode will also fill the acid solution with flakes of carbon, and cause the acid to turn somewhat yellow (platinum would do best if this is a concern).
Can you move the anode and cathode electrodes further apart to decrease the amp draw? It looked as if the tips were very close together.
You could, but the reaction rate is directly determined by the current, so a high amperage is favourable if you want to make the greatest quantity of acid in a short period of time.
@@ScrapScience Thank you. I was thinking of ways to regulate the reaction if, say, it got too fast or you wanted to let it run overnight.
@@TheIntermont Current limiting on the power supply would handle that if in play.
Does this work with ammonium nitrate?
To make nitric acid? Not very well at all. Nitrate/nitric acid seems to mostly be destroyed by some part of the electrolytic process here.
how to Ion move to Clay Pot . when clay pot is Isolator .. ?
The clay pot is porous. Ions can move through the water that's soaked into the structure.
is it possible to use lead dioxide and lead plates from lead acid batteries for this?
Technically yes, but the resulting lead contamination of your product is not something that I'd ever recommend dealing with.
@@ScrapScience well, ig ill need to find a better electrode for that
did you cover the botom of the clay pot with something or doesnt it mater it has a hole in the bottom?
I filled the hole with some silicone sealant, plugging it with a rubber stopper should also work I reckon.
@@ScrapScience thanks for the awnser man
Novel idea, but how does it compare to distilling drain cleaner?
It depends on how much sulfuric acid you need, how concentrated you need it, and how expensive your drain cleaner is.
This method is only really viable for making small amounts of dilute acid. Large amounts of the concentrated stuff are much easier to get from drain cleaner.
With a properly constructed, continually running cell, this method might compete with the cost of using drain cleaner as an acid source, but it's a lot more difficult to set up than a distillation.
Because you have a container smaller so it’s like the siphon effect
How do I make a electric diaframe to separate the ions
I don't understand what you actually need here. What ions are you separating? And for what purpose?
How to make metomil
How much h2o and mgso4 need me to 98% h2so4 making?
It depends on how much acid you want. Regardless, to get 98% sulfuric acid, you'll need to distill the product, which is far from easy.
Soo wait this is an ammonia and sulfuric acid generator? Do i get this right?!
I suppose, yes. But the ammonia ends up mixed in the original ammonium sulfate solution.
Should keep water levels the same fix
Its 10% sulphuric acid solution ?? Am i right or wrong
Yep. That's correct.
The concentration very much depends on the volume of the cell and how long you run it for though, so these numbers aren't representative of the process in general, just an example of the concentration that can be achieved quickly.
@@ScrapScience i make suplihuric acid using thin platinum wire and copper sulphate but it is pretty expensive now i will try your method . Magnesium sulfate and lead dioxide anode . Is lead dioxide suitable for this process or( carbon, platinum ) are mandatory because now I am making one ???
If you have platinum wire, it is very much ideal for this process, and I'd recommend using it.
Lead/lead dioxide will work, but it will inevitably contaminate your cell and acid solution with small amounts of soluble lead, especially if your sulfate source is not absolutely 100% pure. If you have the setup to deal with that contamination, and can responsibly dispose of the lead waste, then go for it. Otherwise, a platinum anode will last pretty much forever in this process, provided you don't introduce any chloride to the cell.
@@ScrapScience which is better ammonium sulfate or magnesium sulphate for making sulphuric acid whose efficiencyncy is more ??? Please 🙏 tell
Technically, ammonium sulfate should be more efficient than magnesium sulfate. However, the difference is likely very small, so you should use whichever sulfate you can get cheaper (in terms of moles, not mass).
filtering the sulfuric acid through cotton and activated carbon seems to remove the yellowing, but idk if it interferes with the acid in some way, and it takes awhile
edit: after filtering, i measured the density, 1.2 is the density, the temperature here is bout 20 c
i put my values on the first table of sulfuric acid density vs concentration and it gave me 28% by weight sulfuric acid, it gave the exact same in the past, which most definitively it inst, something is wrong so cant rely on density or this table
it reacts with copper, that's good, with ammonium bicarb too, i added a small square of copper, ill come back in a few hours and see if it all dissolved
edit: ok it didnt dissolve at all, it looked like it was reacting so something else was happening
ok it did, just took half a day to dissolve practically nothing
Can we use a less volt battery
I wouldn’t use a battery, given they will quickly discharge, but yes, a lower voltage will work, albeit more slowly.
lead electrodes work well and can be made cheap
This is true, a lead metal anode will form a protective oxide surface when electrolysing sulfate solutions. However, if the initial sulfate source has any degree of impurity in it, the lead will quickly dissolve into solution. Since fertiliser is often impure, I'd stay well clear of using a lead anode unless you can purify the sulfate somehow.
@@ScrapScience would a recrystalization or two not work?
A couple of recrystallisations would probably be fine. The small contaminants present in the clay pot may be of concern though, I'm not sure. Either way, you should always be fully prepared for lead contamination in your solution when using a lead anode. Even lead sulfate is somewhat soluble in acidic contitions, and will form even if your starting materials are perfectly pure.
@@ScrapScience how about titanium?or would that be oxidized too?
I'm afraid so. The titanium will form a passivating layer which will prevent further current flow when used as an anode. Technically, only carbon and platinum (and possibly iridium/tantalum oxides on a titanium substrate) will give you a product completely free of chemical impurity.
I wonder if the clay pot had a hole in the bottom and if this caused much contamination...
The hole in the clay pot was plugged with silicone (a rubber stopper will also work). Without this the synthesis won't work.
@@ScrapScience Hey, I followed you copper sulphate version too.... used 200ml deionised water and 40g of copper sulphate but I think it will need to be boiler down ALLOT to be concentrated.
Yeah, if you did the reaction to completion, you should have approximately 10% acid, so it will require a lot of boiling down (assuming you can do that safely) in order to get concentrated stuff.
I hate carbon electrodes. They make everything dirty, and filtration is so boring.
what does 2 molar solution even mean??
'2 molar' is really just a measure of concentration. It tells you how much sulfuric acid you've actually got per litre of water.
For sulphuric acid, 96% concentration is about 18 molar.
It is literally the number of moles of material per liter, where a mole is Avagadro's number of 6.023 x 10^23 molecules. I seem to have learned that fairly well 40 years ago!
In the comments at the original video, a questioner asked, 'So, what is a One Molar solution?'
I offered:
Modern-day chemistry calculates the amount of a material in 'moles'. So one mole of a sustance is its atomic weight (strictly mass) or for compiunds, its formula weight (mass) in grammes:
For example, the lightest weight element has an atomic weight of 1. So Imole of hydrogen atoms weighs 1gramme. And 1mole of hydrogen molecules, H2, weigh 2grammes.
Oxygen atoms weigh 16 times motre than hydrogen atoms, so 1mole of water molecules (H2O) weigh 18 grammes.
And 1mole of pure hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) weighs 34grammes.
(Yes, for the cognoccenti, Atomic Weights are properly called Relative Atomic Masses. And, yes, the 'Atomic Weights' I'm referring to are rounded figures to make the explanation, I hope, fairly clear)
Finally, a 1Molar solution of anything contains 1mole of the dissolved 'stuff' in 1litre of the final solution.
So a 1molar solution of sulphuric acis (H2SO4 = 2+32+64 'Molar Mass' = 98) contains 98grammes of sulphuric acid in one litre of solution and pro-rata for smaller amounts of solution, or larger.
Finally, the use of this is that one can calculate amounts needed or produced by taking the chemical equation and these 'Relative Molar Masses'.
Which is a lot simpler and revealing than the old 'Equivalent Weights' and 'Normalities' upon which I was originally brought up, nearly sixty years' ago.
I **love** chemistry!
Wouldn't it be easier to use a salt bridge between the two solutions by using a filter paper dipped in the solute?
That way you'll have purer sulfuric acid and almost no contaminants?!
I'd used the above for a common salt solution and got pure sodium hydroxide in the cathode and chlorine water in the anode maybe you you could apply that in a future video!
Yep, that’d certainly work to generate a purer product, however, the point of the clay pot is to carry much more current so that a much higher concentration of sulfuric acid can be achieved in a shorter time.
Paper towel salt bridges tend to increase the resistance of the cell so much that the production of whatever you’re making is unreasonably slow. I’ve just found that clay pots are quicker and easier.
If you use a filter paper or pretty much anything that's organic as a salt Bridge then it will dissolve in the anode chamber as h2so4 is formed and it will turn Brown and impure that's why I believe this method with the terracotta pot to my knowledge is the best way👏👏scrap science
Also when using two jars and a salt Bridge the water level still goes down in the anode chamber below the level of the cathode chamber🤔
How beautiful and wonderful you are. I want to ask when the skewers powder is ammonium sulfate powder
Is there a maximum theoretical concentration you can reach by electrolysis?
There's no technical theoretical limit before reaching close to 100% concentration. In practice however, you're limited by the fact that highly concentrated acid is not very conductive, and by product leaking through the diaphragm.
This all assumes you can run your cell for an infinite time too, but that's not realistic either. For a finite running time,, your concentration will depend on your initial sulfate concentration and the current you can push though the cell.
I've heard reports of people making over 50% concentration using a fancy fibreglass diaphragm, but I highly doubt anything over 70% would be feasible.
Where did you get your carbon rods from?
I ended up buying some welding carbons on ebay and removed their copper coating in another video. Removing the carbon rods from zinc carbon batteries also works quite well.
I need to separate ions
breaking bad
Water simply evaporated
Also how does the electrons or whatever travel through a solid object lmao? Sorry i am new to this stuff.
It's not actually the electrons that move through the water/pot, while they do carry charge in the wires, its actually dissolved ions which carry current through the aqueous solution. The clay pot also acts as a porous membrane in this case, rather than being a completely solid object, so that the ions are free to pass through it.
@@bobjohn8581 Judging by their username yeah, but read the last sentence.
Hmm interesting here in Canada U can buy drain cleaner Sulfuric acid 80 percent and buy from Prolab Scientific 98 percent Sulfuric acid. Electroylsis hmm.
Fail! That quote was Charles Darwin - not Kepler.
osmosis
BUT HOW THE RESULTING LIQUID TRANSFERRED TO THE ANODE POT?? HOW?? THERE IS NO PIPE BETWEEN THE 2 POTS!!! AND LIQUID DOES NOT TRANSFERRED IN ELECTRIC WIRES IN THE 2 POTS!!! AGAIN:=HOW THE RESULTING LIQUID IS TRANSFERRED TO THE ANODE POT???
Didn't explain how to make hydrogen peroxide.... what a waste of my time
Why would I have explained how to make hydrogen peroxide?
Really, you don't know why the water is being pulled from one side to the other? Very simple mechanics at work here, mate. I could tell you and maybe I will later on just what's happening with the water displacement. Also, this in my opinion is the wrong system for this type of work. A better chose would have been Two tanks with a membrane in between the two to separate the two fluids just like what's done to make Hydrogen Gas. This is not the only way to do this. I'll finish watching your video before finishing my comment. Well I want you all that's happening because you need to learn what, why, and how's. There is an Electromagnet working here and water that contains metals. Do you get where I'm going with this? Study up. Just my opinion and it really counts for nothing young man. Thank you for the upload.
Are you literally stupid? First, this is literally the same system as two tanks with a membrane between but in this case the membrane is the second tank so it's more efficient and easier, second, wtf does electromagnetism have to do with this, there's NO electromagnet here and he's working with non-ferrous compounds, the reason the water moved is because of osmosis, go to school before you comment wrong information on UA-cam videos
@@elyesgrati I take it you don't like my comment. You didn't have to be rude mate. Just an opinion. Right or Wrong, it's up to you to decide. More things going on here than you think. I'm right about this. Right? It sure took you a very long time in the response to my comment. You just need to study a bit more. Again, thanks for the upload.
@@kennedy67951 i just saw your comment and i wasn't trying to be rude, still this isn't a matter of opinion, you were factually wrong and i tried to correct you
@@elyesgrati Then I stand corrected. Please keep uploading videos. Nice work.
@@kennedy67951 i agree with the latter but your comment is still wrong
Can you help me ...
1:25 list like this I bought
NPK : 13 00 45 also labelled as Potassium Nitrate from Manufacturer " SCB " as source of potassium and Nitrate ion . But the problem is it doesn't seems KNO3 Because i did some Test ...
( I have very little amount of KNO3 20 gram ) , first i compared npk130045 with my 20grm Kno3 using 2 methode
* - 1st by mixing both salt with suger fule separately but Only 20gr one worked but npk didn't .
Than i tried to purify it by recrystallization but same failure
*- 2nd i mixed both salt with HCl to form Nitric acid but only 20gr one was succeed and crystalized npk didn't , i conformed this by dissolving cu in that .
Than i concluded may be it's not Pure Kno3 but mixture of potash ( which is mostly KCl And than Kno3 and rest potassium salt ) since it's written
NPK = 13 00 45 which mean there is only 13 % Nitrogen , zero Phosphate and 45 percent KNO3 salt !!
3rd Than i did chlorine ion test in NPK 130045 by simply doing Electrolysis of the NPK solution to find any Cl gas smells but i was surprised There was also no Chlorine ions
4th *- i also did Flame test of NPK 130045 to conform Potassium , in this case it's indeed Potassium based but unknown salt because of light purple flame .
5th*- i also did K2CO3 carbonate test by double displacing Npk ( thinking it's K2CO3 ) with CaCl2 To see if there any calcium carbonate forms which is cloudy by but results was disappointed again , no precipitation of CaCO3 !
So.........
If This NPK is indeed a salt of Potassium but not KCl , not KNO3 , Not KCO3 , Not KOH than what is it .. ?
It's like mystery for me 😓😕😔 😤 And why they labelled it NPk 130045 And
Potassium Nitrate it's not even potash as mentioned above ??
I don't really know how to help you here. I've never heard of the manufacturer 'SCB', so I don't know what it could be.
From the results of your tests, I'd probably assume it to be potassium sulfate or something, but since no precipitate forms upon addition to calcium chloride, I think it most likely contains potassium chloride with a small amount of impurity.
Your electrolysis test may have failed due to this impurity.
You could make a more selective test for chloride by testing for a precipitate with silver nitrate, if you have that available to you.
I'm afraid that's all I can say with the available information.