Great tutorial. Work for me to get a forgotten husky fired up. Struggled to idle on low but starts every time. The more I use the better it gets. Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for this video! I just got a 562 XP and flooded it second time using it. If I had seen this before I wouldn’t of done so. Luckily I was able to get it going by giving it full gas while starting it. From now on, I’m going to be using your method which is great. Again thank you so much, sir.
I just purchased my first husqvarna chainsaw, a 562xp, haven't even started it yet. But I want to thank you sir for this video! I just learned the proper way to start my saw!
If it has auto tune take the time to read how to set the saw up the first time you use it or watch this video. How to Set the AutoTune on a Husqvarna Professional Chainsaw
This video is perfect but in my humble opinion, explaining the dynamic for necessary procedures is also helpful. A cold engine requires more fuel and the choke ya needed to quickly take fuel to the carburetor and into the combustion chamber, however the choke is too much to run the engine. So if the choke is left on after a couple strokes of the piston, it will flood, meaning the liquid inside the combustion chamber is rendering fuel air mixture and covers the spark plug. That’s why nobody can start the things. As well as compression reduction is not your friend for getting fuel to the engine it reduces necessary vacuume to pull fuel. Fuel ignites faster and more evenly under higher compression. High idle switch setting helps to vacate the extra fuel produced by the choke cycle and dampen the effect of the lean condition that ensues on engine running while cold with the choke off. If you do flood the thing by accident, you cave to clear the combustion chamber of excess liquid and adding air by turning the choke completely off, depress the throttle all the way 100% maximum and pull until the saw (any equipment) starts up, at that point your back to a cold engine needing fast idle or partial choke. You know all this but I like to sound smart and it might help someone out that likes the details. Edited to say: I hurt my back, I’m Layed up, I’m binge watching your channel and took a med, I’m engauged and I’m chattering
Makes sense I've had some times with atune and just about always need the full throttle fire up but could of easily been over choking so this helps in the quest to get over a steep learning curve lol,hope that back heals ok cheers
Auto tune is by far the best saw ive ever owned. And ive owned every brand and every model back to baird poulan days. The days when poulan kept up with stihl. The autotune accelleration is outstanding. Its resilience to cold weather, and the fact that it tunes and adjusts timing in the cut to keep the highest rpms possible. If your a steady cutter and not a dickhead who leans in with all they got (some of my employees) then you will notice that it will increase rpms and power, midcut. The last half of the log will go twice as fast.
Thanks was driving me crazy why I couldn’t start the little ripper that this saw is once it is running I was thinking I wasn’t pulling it fast enough cause I’m just recovering from both my shoulders having surgery my stihl saws ya grab a handful of throttle and put the choke on for fast idle well ya know what I mean thanks again
I had a hell of a time with my 372 X-Torq when I first got it until I learned that hitting the compression release on a cold saw is a guaranteed way to flood it. Now I apply choke, pull the cord until it burps, take off the choke and give it a couple of more pulls and it starts easily. I never use the comp release. I don't have to pull on the cord more than about 5 times in total even when cold. I sometimes use the comp release if the saw is warm and an I'm in a somewhat awkward position, but I usually don't. I just give it a quick, short pull and it's going again. It's a great saw.
Geoff Clark read your manual!!!I bought a husky saw and there is a very specific way to start that saw,if u don't follow the correct order it will always fight u,if u do what it says to do in the Manuel the saw will strated every single time ,I have experienced this alot!
Every engine that has a carburetor starts like this. Even with no primer, just a few extra pulls on full choke gets the pop. If you can reach the choke quick enough to shut it off, it stays running. Sometimes gotta feather the choke to keep it running. That’s for boats sleds wheeler bikes even four stroke equipment can use this same technique with a carburetor.
That the same way to start a Stihl Mtronic or just about any saw for that matter. The key is pull it in full choke a minimum number of pulls. I set my max limit at 4 pulls before I roll it up to half choke and the same number of pulls there before I blip it up to run. I then pull it 4 to 6 times in the run position before setting it down to rest my arm for a few minutes. Then we start over from the full choke position or cold start, as Stihl calls it. Somewhere in this routine it will roll over, or pop as you refer to it. When it rolls over I put it up one position and pull until it starts. If, for some reason, it won't start. I blip it up to run and pull it 8 to 10 times to clear a flood and then, carefully, put it down to the warm start position and pull it until it cranks. I have never had a saw that did not crank somewhere in this sequence, unless it was out of gas.
Just bought a used 550xp and cant get it started. With the choke on it burps about the 3rd or 4th pull,but doesnt do anything after that. It seems to flood out. Obviously I dont have the manual,so I'm hoping this will help. I have a stihl ms441c that's their version of autotune and it starts and shuts the choke out automatically and runs on high idle. Hoping this is just a learning curve and not something actually wrong. Thanks for the video.
@@afleetcommand Gonna tinker with it some more today. It's getting good spark,has compression,so its gotta be something with the fuel. If I had to change the carburetor on this saw would your learning procedure work,or would a dealer have to hook it up to a computer?
This saws with electronic carburetors, nylon caged bearings and a whole bunch of plastics won't last the time where a collector will pick them up. I have seen saws with scored pistons after 8 hours of use combined with alkylate fuel. Imho it's more a strategy the manufactures maintain to ensure only their dealers can support this kind of technology. If there's a problem, you need to electronic module to test and mostely also to replace and carbu and ignition. Prices are high. If you wan't a decent saw, look for the good old school architecture, look for a Dolmar/Echo/Oleo-Mac or buy a 1985-2010 model.
I get all that. But I like my 562's AND my old saws. The 562's and the 555 I had before them have worked really well for me...mixed in with my older design saws. I use them because they make enough power while being lighter and have very little vibration. Never thought that would be an issue, but as age has taken its toll those two things (Weight and vibration) mean more and more. And...did you notice? They start easy..:)
I have one it runs and starts really well even when warm but my 550 s dont when being used limbing spuce hemlock pine . When you shut it off it still doesnt start as good as the 562 when warm. I have had it put on computer no better results but i still like running them in soft wood. Just a pain to have to crank them 6 to 8 times when working to get started, 562 1 to 2 pulls and we are cutting again
My 550's start the same. Some time the little rubber "s" shaped tube to the purge bulb leaks and causes issues. Also the 550s went through a series of upgrades, there are service bulletins that define the carb upgrade, tubing, and carb kit to go along with better firm wear. Mine didn't need it but some do.
Hi Walt, Thanks for all your great videos! I have a quick question on the 562XP. Have you run into any of the vapor locking issues there in New York? I live up in Alaska and I'm about 3 days away from buying my first Husqvarna ( the 562XP) thanks almost entirely on your fantastic information and down to earth conversation and advise; I love every minute of those discussions. While doing my due diligence, I've run across a few youtube vids about the heat shield being insufficient and the fuel in the hose vaporizing once you shut the saw off hot. Would I have anything to worry about up here?
I had one that displayed that issue. After my cut cover and muffler mod it never did again. The newer ones ..no. Interesting to some is the "max" recorded carb temps on my modded saw were even less than the 572...:) Goes to show that event the standard 562's can be fine.
I really don't need them but I found somebody has a 572xp and 365 for $250 each and a 388 think the model is top handle saw for $120 on the Facebook Marketplace. I wish he posted them a week ago. I am going out of town in a day and have a bunch of stuff to do and he is almost 2 hours away depending on traffic. I def would have drove out if he posted them a few days ago. I do have to drive through there on the way out of town if I can get him to meet me at the Walmart out that way on the way through maybe could put a tote on the car trailer and strap it down in front of my CTS-V don't want to put them inside my brand new Suburban for that long ass drive.
A 572 for 250? That's the new saw. Easy $800 dollars worth right there. A 365 for 250 is a good deal if its an Original Edition. Sometimes the XT's are worth that but often you better check things with a can of brake clean before buying one of those in the XT configuration. ( Shoot a little under the clutch when it's idling to see if it stalls.....if it does...pass )
@@afleetcommand The 365 is a 365 special. Both look to be in good shape in the pics just haven't seen them in person. The plastic on top on both is a little faded so I am assuming they rode around in the back of a truck a lot down here in SC. Maybe the guy swiped them from the back of a tree service truck or something. $250 each seems awfully cheap.
Would you mind doing a bit on bar mount sizing and the best kind of bar for an older saws? I'm looking to get a bigger bar/chain set for my sxl -925 to use for milling, but I'm not sure of which bar to buy.
Yup. I have used the Oregon "power match" 20 and 28 inch bars for my 925's...for years. There are other options and I di plan to go back and visit not just the B&C options but focus on those 925's as well. Just time is short and there is a lot to do..so don't know when. Hopefully this year.
travis chandler you never should pull any saw again in choke after the pop. Only the Dolmar injektion carbs have a choke the allows that. After the Pop,switch any saw to high idle and pull it to life.
They use a system with the same roots as the early gen Husqvarna's autotune system. I have two 441', a 441 and 441c...really curious on how they turn out, I like those saws..:)
Nice like i do on my 545 but the 545 has almost no squish. Its over 0,8mm between piston and Head. Is that the main disadvantage between the 545 and 550 ?? The 545 has less HP but also 50cc and shoult there be less Compression???
.8mm is .031in. On a saw that size a squish of .018 would be fine. No disadvantage really between the 545 & 550, difference in price point and slight differences but they both run well.
afleetcommand Thats right my 545 runs good after an Update. It had a bit issues coming out the idle. She was to lean. Now she runs great but like every saw , it could have more Power. I am thinking about a basegasket swop, but do i ruin the plus Power because of the timing change of lower cylinder Position?
I'm more worried about other interference issues than timing changes. Leave it stock is best. If you want more power...get a more powerful saw. CAN'T have too many..:)
On those 5 series there isn't a lot of room to move things away from designed locations. The 562's in particular require a lot more attention to detail than the older designs. 550's do as well. I'm doing a series on 550's and will put a video up in a few weeks. Did a series on 562's a while back. Things to check are interference's from the cylinder flange to cases, do they bottom out before the gasket surface can seal, is there enough clearance in the muffler mounting holes, stuff in that class of things. I'll put a link in for the 562 video. Not everything translates but the concept of where to look for issues does. ua-cam.com/video/zt8THgN-BkU/v-deo.html
Stihl are much more simple than these😂 don’t get me wrong I like Husqvarnas I have 3 myself but the older ones like the 262 xp. The reason I’ve gone for stihl now is that I don’t like bubbles (fuel primers) and I also hear the the Husqvarnas are more troublesome than stihls... both are great saws
Great tutorial. Work for me to get a forgotten husky fired up. Struggled to idle on low but starts every time. The more I use the better it gets. Thanks 👍
Thank you so much for this video! I just got a 562 XP and flooded it second time using it. If I had seen this before I wouldn’t of done so. Luckily I was able to get it going by giving it full gas while starting it. From now on, I’m going to be using your method which is great. Again thank you so much, sir.
I just purchased my first husqvarna chainsaw, a 562xp, haven't even started it yet. But I want to thank you sir for this video! I just learned the proper way to start my saw!
If it has auto tune take the time to read how to set the saw up the first time you use it or watch this video. How to Set the AutoTune on a Husqvarna Professional Chainsaw
This video is perfect but in my humble opinion, explaining the dynamic for necessary procedures is also helpful. A cold engine requires more fuel and the choke ya needed to quickly take fuel to the carburetor and into the combustion chamber, however the choke is too much to run the engine. So if the choke is left on after a couple strokes of the piston, it will flood, meaning the liquid inside the combustion chamber is rendering fuel air mixture and covers the spark plug. That’s why nobody can start the things. As well as compression reduction is not your friend for getting fuel to the engine it reduces necessary vacuume to pull fuel. Fuel ignites faster and more evenly under higher compression. High idle switch setting helps to vacate the extra fuel produced by the choke cycle and dampen the effect of the lean condition that ensues on engine running while cold with the choke off. If you do flood the thing by accident, you cave to clear the combustion chamber of excess liquid and adding air by turning the choke completely off, depress the throttle all the way 100% maximum and pull until the saw (any equipment) starts up, at that point your back to a cold engine needing fast idle or partial choke. You know all this but I like to sound smart and it might help someone out that likes the details.
Edited to say: I hurt my back, I’m Layed up, I’m binge watching your channel and took a med, I’m engauged and I’m chattering
Makes sense I've had some times with atune and just about always need the full throttle fire up but could of easily been over choking so this helps in the quest to get over a steep learning curve lol,hope that back heals ok cheers
Very good tutorial, thanks! I have a Jonsered CS 2252
I bought a 562XP, after having all Stihls. There was a little bit of a learning curve, but it's all good. I love my Husqy!
Auto tune is by far the best saw ive ever owned. And ive owned every brand and every model back to baird poulan days. The days when poulan kept up with stihl. The autotune accelleration is outstanding. Its resilience to cold weather, and the fact that it tunes and adjusts timing in the cut to keep the highest rpms possible. If your a steady cutter and not a dickhead who leans in with all they got (some of my employees) then you will notice that it will increase rpms and power, midcut. The last half of the log will go twice as fast.
Somebody please show this to the makers of stihl and anyone who buys them husqvarna 2 pulls got to love them
Walt....glad to see you back!
Thanks was driving me crazy why I couldn’t start the little ripper that this saw is once it is running I was thinking I wasn’t pulling it fast enough cause I’m just recovering from both my shoulders having surgery my stihl saws ya grab a handful of throttle and put the choke on for fast idle well ya know what I mean thanks again
Good stuff. I start my 555 the same way....
Hey Walt, you should do one for the 365/372 x-torqs. I have such a hard time getting them going. And yes, the carb boots are tight, no air leaks.
I had a hell of a time with my 372 X-Torq when I first got it until I learned that hitting the compression release on a cold saw is a guaranteed way to flood it. Now I apply choke, pull the cord until it burps, take off the choke and give it a couple of more pulls and it starts easily. I never use the comp release. I don't have to pull on the cord more than about 5 times in total even when cold. I sometimes use the comp release if the saw is warm and an I'm in a somewhat awkward position, but I usually don't. I just give it a quick, short pull and it's going again. It's a great saw.
Geoff Clark read your manual!!!I bought a husky saw and there is a very specific way to start that saw,if u don't follow the correct order it will always fight u,if u do what it says to do in the Manuel the saw will strated every single time ,I have experienced this alot!
Every engine that has a carburetor starts like this. Even with no primer, just a few extra pulls on full choke gets the pop. If you can reach the choke quick enough to shut it off, it stays running. Sometimes gotta feather the choke to keep it running. That’s for boats sleds wheeler bikes even four stroke equipment can use this same technique with a carburetor.
Excellent explanation!! Hats off to you sir!
The first 562XP has a nice strong sound.
That the same way to start a Stihl Mtronic or just about any saw for that matter. The key is pull it in full choke a minimum number of pulls. I set my max limit at 4 pulls before I roll it up to half choke and the same number of pulls there before I blip it up to run. I then pull it 4 to 6 times in the run position before setting it down to rest my arm for a few minutes. Then we start over from the full choke position or cold start, as Stihl calls it. Somewhere in this routine it will roll over, or pop as you refer to it. When it rolls over I put it up one position and pull until it starts. If, for some reason, it won't start. I blip it up to run and pull it 8 to 10 times to clear a flood and then, carefully, put it down to the warm start position and pull it until it cranks. I have never had a saw that did not crank somewhere in this sequence, unless it was out of gas.
Cool video
Just bought a used 550xp and cant get it started. With the choke on it burps about the 3rd or 4th pull,but doesnt do anything after that. It seems to flood out. Obviously I dont have the manual,so I'm hoping this will help. I have a stihl ms441c that's their version of autotune and it starts and shuts the choke out automatically and runs on high idle. Hoping this is just a learning curve and not something actually wrong. Thanks for the video.
ua-cam.com/video/x6_PTv__uzY/v-deo.html
@@afleetcommand Gonna tinker with it some more today. It's getting good spark,has compression,so its gotta be something with the fuel. If I had to change the carburetor on this saw would your learning procedure work,or would a dealer have to hook it up to a computer?
Excellent! As usual great info.
This saws with electronic carburetors, nylon caged bearings and a whole bunch of plastics won't last the time where a collector will pick them up. I have seen saws with scored pistons after 8 hours of use combined with alkylate fuel.
Imho it's more a strategy the manufactures maintain to ensure only their dealers can support this kind of technology. If there's a problem, you need to electronic module to test and mostely also to replace and carbu and ignition. Prices are high.
If you wan't a decent saw, look for the good old school architecture, look for a Dolmar/Echo/Oleo-Mac or buy a 1985-2010 model.
I get all that. But I like my 562's AND my old saws. The 562's and the 555 I had before them have worked really well for me...mixed in with my older design saws. I use them because they make enough power while being lighter and have very little vibration. Never thought that would be an issue, but as age has taken its toll those two things (Weight and vibration) mean more and more. And...did you notice? They start easy..:)
I have one it runs and starts really well even when warm but my 550 s dont when being used limbing spuce hemlock pine . When you shut it off it still doesnt start as good as the 562 when warm. I have had it put on computer no better results but i still like running them in soft wood. Just a pain to have to crank them 6 to 8 times when working to get started, 562 1 to 2 pulls and we are cutting again
My 550's start the same. Some time the little rubber "s" shaped tube to the purge bulb leaks and causes issues. Also the 550s went through a series of upgrades, there are service bulletins that define the carb upgrade, tubing, and carb kit to go along with better firm wear. Mine didn't need it but some do.
My 2020 562XP requires the exact same starting procedure.
Good video...thank you
Hi Walt, Thanks for all your great videos! I have a quick question on the 562XP. Have you run into any of the vapor locking issues there in New York? I live up in Alaska and I'm about 3 days away from buying my first Husqvarna ( the 562XP) thanks almost entirely on your fantastic information and down to earth conversation and advise; I love every minute of those discussions. While doing my due diligence, I've run across a few youtube vids about the heat shield being insufficient and the fuel in the hose vaporizing once you shut the saw off hot. Would I have anything to worry about up here?
I had one that displayed that issue. After my cut cover and muffler mod it never did again. The newer ones ..no. Interesting to some is the "max" recorded carb temps on my modded saw were even less than the 572...:) Goes to show that event the standard 562's can be fine.
I really don't need them but I found somebody has a 572xp and 365 for $250 each and a 388 think the model is top handle saw for $120 on the Facebook Marketplace. I wish he posted them a week ago. I am going out of town in a day and have a bunch of stuff to do and he is almost 2 hours away depending on traffic. I def would have drove out if he posted them a few days ago. I do have to drive through there on the way out of town if I can get him to meet me at the Walmart out that way on the way through maybe could put a tote on the car trailer and strap it down in front of my CTS-V don't want to put them inside my brand new Suburban for that long ass drive.
A 572 for 250? That's the new saw. Easy $800 dollars worth right there. A 365 for 250 is a good deal if its an Original Edition. Sometimes the XT's are worth that but often you better check things with a can of brake clean before buying one of those in the XT configuration. ( Shoot a little under the clutch when it's idling to see if it stalls.....if it does...pass )
@@afleetcommand The 365 is a 365 special. Both look to be in good shape in the pics just haven't seen them in person. The plastic on top on both is a little faded so I am assuming they rode around in the back of a truck a lot down here in SC. Maybe the guy swiped them from the back of a tree service truck or something. $250 each seems awfully cheap.
Would you mind doing a bit on bar mount sizing and the best kind of bar for an older saws? I'm looking to get a bigger bar/chain set for my sxl -925 to use for milling, but I'm not sure of which bar to buy.
Yup. I have used the Oregon "power match" 20 and 28 inch bars for my 925's...for years. There are other options and I di plan to go back and visit not just the B&C options but focus on those 925's as well. Just time is short and there is a lot to do..so don't know when. Hopefully this year.
Got my dads old husqvarna 77 ,no telling how old it is but its still cutting
My standard carb 441 will flood instantly if its pulled on choke after the pop. The pop is very suttle
travis chandler you never should pull any saw again in choke after the pop.
Only the Dolmar injektion carbs have a choke the allows that.
After the Pop,switch any saw to high idle and pull it to life.
They use a system with the same roots as the early gen Husqvarna's autotune system. I have two 441', a 441 and 441c...really curious on how they turn out, I like those saws..:)
Nice like i do on my 545 but the 545 has almost no squish. Its over 0,8mm between piston and Head. Is that the main disadvantage between the 545 and 550 ?? The 545 has less HP but also 50cc and shoult there be less Compression???
.8mm is .031in. On a saw that size a squish of .018 would be fine. No disadvantage really between the 545 & 550, difference in price point and slight differences but they both run well.
afleetcommand Thats right my 545 runs good after an Update. It had a bit issues coming out the idle. She was to lean. Now she runs great but like every saw , it could have more Power.
I am thinking about a basegasket swop, but do i ruin the plus Power because of the timing change of lower cylinder Position?
I'm more worried about other interference issues than timing changes. Leave it stock is best. If you want more power...get a more powerful saw. CAN'T have too many..:)
afleetcommand Which interferences do you mean? Heat , leaking silicone gasket on the base?
None of my saws is Stock.
Just my 133 Dolmars are stock!
On those 5 series there isn't a lot of room to move things away from designed locations. The 562's in particular require a lot more attention to detail than the older designs. 550's do as well. I'm doing a series on 550's and will put a video up in a few weeks. Did a series on 562's a while back. Things to check are interference's from the cylinder flange to cases, do they bottom out before the gasket surface can seal, is there enough clearance in the muffler mounting holes, stuff in that class of things. I'll put a link in for the 562 video. Not everything translates but the concept of where to look for issues does.
ua-cam.com/video/zt8THgN-BkU/v-deo.html
Nice!!! Long time hehe.👌
Are they running 50:1 fuel mix ?
32:1
Superbe drujbele. . . . 👍👍👍👍👍
woooow second pull
We did all of the above and it is a bran new saw and we got nothing.
Dealer.issue then.
Yes that's the way every 2 stroke should be started........ Weed eaters Saws or blowers ~!~!
Plus Tard Mon Ami !~!~!~!
Stihl are much more simple than these😂 don’t get me wrong I like Husqvarnas I have 3 myself but the older ones like the 262 xp. The reason I’ve gone for stihl now is that I don’t like bubbles (fuel primers) and I also hear the the Husqvarnas are more troublesome than stihls... both are great saws
what I dont understand was this technology forced on us in the name of cleaner burn. If so they sure seem to burn extreme rich at times
Don't kno about high idle ...
All i heard was water filling a bath tub
:)