I think I did mention all this info on the first video, but if I remembered correctly, the company or the name doesn't matter the oil viscosity and grade matters ( 75w-80) GL-4
@@KlavsX_ I have experimented with some gearbox oils and ravenol one is the best in winter. Some gearbox oils dont work with Mazda gearboxes, my guess is due to tight tolerances. In winter it's easier to engage 1st and 2nd gear with better oil, without gear grinding etc
@@MrErrrust Gear grinding is the worst that can happen. That kind of oil should never be put in a gearbox, No matter what weather. You are 100% correct, Mazda is picky with the gear oils. Wrong oil can cause a need for a new gearbox or rebuild. $$$
🤔 I thought about that, but decided not to. There are too many possibility's for stuff to go wrong. ( the gearbox had sludge, so extra few oil changes will be the safest bet) I don't want to get the synchro's or bearings full of idk what stuff is on the bottom.
@@KlavsX_ Yes I understand but I don't think cleaning can cause problems. There is also a very simple trick to help is to replace the cap with a cap with a magnet. I do it every time on my cars for the engine and the gearbox. Thank you very much for all your very well explained videos.
@@KlavsX_Do you by any chance know how to make the turn signals flash when opening and closing the car with the remote control? My car is of German origin and I am French If you have an email address it would be more practical
It all depends on how bad the gearbox is. A few of my old friends cleaned their gearboxes, but the results weren't what we all expected. The magnet drain bolts should be already installed on Mazda 6, but can't say that for sure. Oh, that's awesome you found a good cleaner. You are welcome, glad these videos can help
I should have an email in the channel description. From factory the turn signals should blink if you lock or unlock your car, there is a probability the options has been coded out or turned off.
Watching your channel for long time however first time you did awful comparison new vs almost new fluid. 2 backets placed on ground and tube with new fluid hold between camera and bright source of light so you called it fluid going to bin. Why not to take 2 samples of both fluids place them in same way in front of some light then compare
Thank you for the feedback, but I would like to fully understand and confirm this with you. Your complaint is that - I didn't put New and Old fluid in sample-size containers and compare them in front of a source of light? Did I understand correctly? 🤔
Sort of that comparison as you mentioned. I know extra few minutes for test but worth to see fluid didn't get black just bit more brown colour. Up to last month had Mazda 6 2 gen and did lot of work to bring car on good tracks. I were partially inspired with your yt channel😊
👍 Glad you had inspiration to fix up the old car, not to scrap it or bring it for a trade-in. 👌 I know what you want to say, that, in 500 or how many miles I did, the oil changed to a bit more brown, but sadly... My Mazda's previous owner didn't believe in servicing the car, so I would need more flushes to achieve what you mentioned. The first time I did change, I found black sludge on the drain bolt. I want to get to that state, when I Drain the gearbox oil and it's just a bit browner I will be happy.
What a gem this channel is for Mazda6 GH owners! Thanks for the good content!👍
👍 Doing what I can. Glad that you like the content 👌
Whats is the oil specification ?? cuz in my country i cant get british oil :D thx
I think I did mention all this info on the first video, but if I remembered correctly, the company or the name doesn't matter the oil viscosity and grade matters ( 75w-80) GL-4
Gearbox takes 2,9L of mtf2 something oil. I use 3x 1L bottles from ravenol
All good, as long as you don't put the wrong viscosity oil in all is good. The wrong grade can ruin the gearbox pretty fast.
@@KlavsX_ I have experimented with some gearbox oils and ravenol one is the best in winter. Some gearbox oils dont work with Mazda gearboxes, my guess is due to tight tolerances. In winter it's easier to engage 1st and 2nd gear with better oil, without gear grinding etc
@@MrErrrust Gear grinding is the worst that can happen. That kind of oil should never be put in a gearbox, No matter what weather.
You are 100% correct, Mazda is picky with the gear oils. Wrong oil can cause a need for a new gearbox or rebuild. $$$
Always open filling plug first. :D
😅 That was done off the camera
@@KlavsX_ Important to metion for me :D dont asky me why :D
😆 That's why I had to add at the end for step by step guide look back at the first video 😂 So people don't get confused
Maybe next time use a gearbox cleaner before the first oil change
🤔 I thought about that, but decided not to.
There are too many possibility's for stuff to go wrong. ( the gearbox had sludge, so extra few oil changes will be the safest bet) I don't want to get the synchro's or bearings full of idk what stuff is on the bottom.
@@KlavsX_ Yes I understand but I don't think cleaning can cause problems. There is also a very simple trick to help is to replace the cap with a cap with a magnet. I do it every time on my cars for the engine and the gearbox. Thank you very much for all your very well explained videos.
@@KlavsX_Do you by any chance know how to make the turn signals flash when opening and closing the car with the remote control? My car is of German origin and I am French If you have an email address it would be more practical
It all depends on how bad the gearbox is. A few of my old friends cleaned their gearboxes, but the results weren't what we all expected.
The magnet drain bolts should be already installed on Mazda 6, but can't say that for sure.
Oh, that's awesome you found a good cleaner.
You are welcome, glad these videos can help
I should have an email in the channel description.
From factory the turn signals should blink if you lock or unlock your car, there is a probability the options has been coded out or turned off.
Watching your channel for long time however first time you did awful comparison new vs almost new fluid. 2 backets placed on ground and tube with new fluid hold between camera and bright source of light so you called it fluid going to bin. Why not to take 2 samples of both fluids place them in same way in front of some light then compare
Thank you for the feedback, but I would like to fully understand and confirm this with you.
Your complaint is that - I didn't put New and Old fluid in sample-size containers and compare them in front of a source of light?
Did I understand correctly? 🤔
Sort of that comparison as you mentioned. I know extra few minutes for test but worth to see fluid didn't get black just bit more brown colour. Up to last month had Mazda 6 2 gen and did lot of work to bring car on good tracks. I were partially inspired with your yt channel😊
👍 Glad you had inspiration to fix up the old car, not to scrap it or bring it for a trade-in. 👌
I know what you want to say, that, in 500 or how many miles I did, the oil changed to a bit more brown, but sadly...
My Mazda's previous owner didn't believe in servicing the car, so I would need more flushes to achieve what you mentioned. The first time I did change, I found black sludge on the drain bolt.
I want to get to that state, when I Drain the gearbox oil and it's just a bit browner I will be happy.