When I find a frame with SHB larva unless it full of capped or emerging brood it goes in the freezer for 48 hours. If it's full of brood and on plastic foundation I scrap out all the infested area then vacuum that whole area then put inside a super strong colony for them to clean it up.
Interesting. You vacuum it? With a shop vac? I don't like to put frames with SHB slime in other hives. I'm all for swapping frames when it will help another hive, but hives with SHB infestations are usually already weak because of other issues, and I don't want to go spreading problems around my bee yard just to salvage 1-3 lb of honey.
@@BeekeepingMadeSimple If I find a frame that has lots of adult SHBs I take out in full sunlight, they will come out and try to run from the sun, the bees will chasing them and I will be smashing them, depending on what the frame contains is how I make my decision on what the action will be, if it's 90% honey and pollen with a small patch of brood, I shake the bees off and freeze it for 48 hours then put it inside a deep kitchen garbage bag sealed up then place in an empty box near my hives to thaw because in open air it will be dripping wet with condensation the bag will sweat but not frame or frames inside, that kills everything walks, crawls eggs and most bacteria mold ect. when warm enough, I give back to the colony where it came in the same position which I placed a blank frame undrawn foundation, that gives bees something cluster on in case there's brood on the adjacent frames and sometimes they start drawing it out a bit. What I meant is if it's 90% brood on both sides, but SHB larva have slimmed say just one upper corner where it's pollen bee bread and honey, with my hive tool I scrap out everything down to the plastic foundation cleaning my hive tool off inside some small beaker that goes in the freezer, I use my shop vac with a small wand to clean out the area I scraped out assuming there's still some SHB eggs on this frame I give it one my strongest colonies and take one that's roughly the same amount of brood back to colony where it came, but yes I treat both colonies for SHB in the process with beetle blasters, swiffer sheets and peppermint starlights. I once had a hive that got semi-slimmed the bees abscounded, but I caught just as the SHB had started to slime the frames, I put the whole hive bottom brood box and lid in my freezer for my bee stuff for a month then took it out, pressure washed everything (I have cheap little electric pressure washer that I can adjust down to gentle fan type mist) let set out in sun to dry then installed a nuk of bees they cleaned up and the queen began laying in it almost immediately, of course I took out the worst 3 frames and gave them their own, there was about 35 pounds of still good honey in the frames. The interesting part about that colony is when they abscounded they went about 400 yards across a cotton field and settled in an old rusty upside-down steel drum in the neighbor's back lot, when hot weather came their melted and they moved up under a large limb about 70 feet off the ground, built combs and over-wintered there, then it looks like they've proplized the whole nest over, I didn't know about till this year when the neighbor had a 5 week old puppy go missing and had came to my house and he told about the bees showing there a year and 1/2 ago.
Plant Sunflowers according to the Missouri department of Conservation. Sunflowers have a symbiotic relationship with a soil fungus. This fungus kills mites
I have a question about Bees making the hive below the hive on the outside? We have Been Bee keepers for 5 years and one hive always makes comb under the hive and the hive is not cramped inside , plenty room
Really interesting Laryssa. Of particular interest was the varroa mite bit. Sadly it has hit the Australian shores and they’re doing everything they can to contain and get it under control and hopefully eradicated…and there goes my plans to start beekeeping this year.
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Beekeeping is still enjoyable when varroa mites are present. However, you may have the same issues we had when the mites arrived in Hawaii - there were no treatments. It took awhile before we could have them shipped over due to issues mailing formic acid and such.
I have a question I have a strong hive I’ve lost a queen should I purchase a new queen or should I let the colony do their own thing and make a new queen what is your opinion on it thank you
Usually, I let my hive make their own queen. However, when I would purchase a queen is if they're in an area where I've let hives requeen themselves and it never worked out (possibly too few drones or too windy for the queens). The other time I don't let a hive requeen is when they have just 3 or fewer frames of brood and a moderate to low population. It will be 2 weeks before the queen hatches and then another week before she mates and starts laying. Another 4 weeks before those first eggs the queen lays hatch. That's Almost 2 months! Make sure the hive can sustain itself for that long.
When I find a frame with SHB larva unless it full of capped or emerging brood it goes in the freezer for 48 hours. If it's full of brood and on plastic foundation I scrap out all the infested area then vacuum that whole area then put inside a super strong colony for them to clean it up.
Interesting. You vacuum it? With a shop vac? I don't like to put frames with SHB slime in other hives. I'm all for swapping frames when it will help another hive, but hives with SHB infestations are usually already weak because of other issues, and I don't want to go spreading problems around my bee yard just to salvage 1-3 lb of honey.
@@BeekeepingMadeSimple If I find a frame that has lots of adult SHBs I take out in full sunlight, they will come out and try to run from the sun, the bees will chasing them and I will be smashing them, depending on what the frame contains is how I make my decision on what the action will be, if it's 90% honey and pollen with a small patch of brood, I shake the bees off and freeze it for 48 hours then put it inside a deep kitchen garbage bag sealed up then place in an empty box near my hives to thaw because in open air it will be dripping wet with condensation the bag will sweat but not frame or frames inside, that kills everything walks, crawls eggs and most bacteria mold ect. when warm enough, I give back to the colony where it came in the same position which I placed a blank frame undrawn foundation, that gives bees something cluster on in case there's brood on the adjacent frames and sometimes they start drawing it out a bit. What I meant is if it's 90% brood on both sides, but SHB larva have slimmed say just one upper corner where it's pollen bee bread and honey, with my hive tool I scrap out everything down to the plastic foundation cleaning my hive tool off inside some small beaker that goes in the freezer, I use my shop vac with a small wand to clean out the area I scraped out assuming there's still some SHB eggs on this frame I give it one my strongest colonies and take one that's roughly the same amount of brood back to colony where it came, but yes I treat both colonies for SHB in the process with beetle blasters, swiffer sheets and peppermint starlights. I once had a hive that got semi-slimmed the bees abscounded, but I caught just as the SHB had started to slime the frames, I put the whole hive bottom brood box and lid in my freezer for my bee stuff for a month then took it out, pressure washed everything (I have cheap little electric pressure washer that I can adjust down to gentle fan type mist) let set out in sun to dry then installed a nuk of bees they cleaned up and the queen began laying in it almost immediately, of course I took out the worst 3 frames and gave them their own, there was about 35 pounds of still good honey in the frames. The interesting part about that colony is when they abscounded they went about 400 yards across a cotton field and settled in an old rusty upside-down steel drum in the neighbor's back lot, when hot weather came their melted and they moved up under a large limb about 70 feet off the ground, built combs and over-wintered there, then it looks like they've proplized the whole nest over, I didn't know about till this year when the neighbor had a 5 week old puppy go missing and had came to my house and he told about the bees showing there a year and 1/2 ago.
Thank you. From Wisconsin, I found two but didn't know what they were. I'm going to look for more tomorrow. Ordered some traps today.
I never saw a single one in my hives in PA, but I hear their population has traveled pretty far north in the last decade.
Plant Sunflowers according to the Missouri department of Conservation. Sunflowers have a symbiotic relationship with a soil fungus. This fungus kills mites
Thank You So Much!!! I'm going out to check my hive for the first time!!!! I sure appreciate all of your help and knowledge!!!
🙏❤️🙏
Covered a lot! Excellent info I hope to use this info in my second year of beekeeping
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video for beginners like me. Thank You. 😊
You are so welcome!
Thank you for sharing this bee beetle problem because I’m having beetle problem and they worry me
I have a question about Bees making the hive below the hive on the outside? We have Been Bee keepers for 5 years and one hive always makes comb under the hive and the hive is not cramped inside , plenty room
Really interesting Laryssa. Of particular interest was the varroa mite bit. Sadly it has hit the Australian shores and they’re doing everything they can to contain and get it under control and hopefully eradicated…and there goes my plans to start beekeeping this year.
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. Beekeeping is still enjoyable when varroa mites are present. However, you may have the same issues we had when the mites arrived in Hawaii - there were no treatments. It took awhile before we could have them shipped over due to issues mailing formic acid and such.
I have a question i have 2frames of bees half frame of capped brood no queen should i by a queen now and put in hive from east tenn randy send reply.
You always do a great job!! Great teacher
Thanks so much!
I have a question I have a strong hive I’ve lost a queen should I purchase a new queen or should I let the colony do their own thing and make a new queen what is your opinion on it thank you
Usually, I let my hive make their own queen. However, when I would purchase a queen is if they're in an area where I've let hives requeen themselves and it never worked out (possibly too few drones or too windy for the queens). The other time I don't let a hive requeen is when they have just 3 or fewer frames of brood and a moderate to low population. It will be 2 weeks before the queen hatches and then another week before she mates and starts laying. Another 4 weeks before those first eggs the queen lays hatch. That's Almost 2 months! Make sure the hive can sustain itself for that long.
Fantastic video Larissa awesome content.🇦🇺👍🐝🍯
Thanks so much!
Greatly done! You guys are pro.
This is super helpful! 😊👍
Great!
Cool great video
I can't just ignore hive beetles and squish any ones I see. Afterall, they lay the eggs that ruin your frames.
The slime contains a bacteria that produces a bee abscond pheromone
I’m in Australia so no veroa