Removing SALT From YOUR BOAT!
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- Опубліковано 16 сер 2021
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Good post. For a preventative approach try using a mixture of vinegar (neutralizes the salt) and carwash (emulsifys the solution so it sticks to passage ways) . That is basically what salt away is (Acetic acid) for a 10th of the price. Use a star brite inline flushing kit and fill with 8 parts vinegar and 2 parts carwash after every trip. Salt and build up won't be a problem. It won't fix an already gummed up system but then again prevention is always preferable.
I definitely use Saltaway everytime I'm flushing my motor. I feel the ounce of prevention out weighs the 20 pounds of cure.
I'm really enjoying your channel and learn so much by watching and listening. Keep up the fantastic work. Again thank you , Henry
Really enjoying your channel. It’s very interesting to see different types of approaches to maintenance and general boat running. 😎👍
Welcome aboard!
I use salt away all the time and flush out the engine every time I use my boat. Great stuff. Makes a big difference. Thank you for showing the video.
AS YOU CLEARLY DEMONSTRATED; a regular maintenance discipline is wisdom; a stitch in Time.
Overheats do a tremendous amount of damage and dramatically reduce gas mileage and performance, the domino affect ; a laboring starter can lead to a starter fail and Who Know where you'll be when that takes Place?
I've never used any of those products in over 40 years but I always flush with freshwater after every use.....My Yamaha 4 strokers have the flush attachment which I use when the boats stay in the water for an extended period of time....I've never had any overheating problems!!
During the winter I put a sprinkler under my truck then use the Salt Away mixer in-line with it. I also have a hot water spigot on the outside of the house. It keeps my frame clean of salt and I don’t experience lots of rust.
I appreciate your effort to address the issue of the salt and descaling problem. The one thing I noticed is that the mechanical (pick) removal process, only works on the areas where you can physically access the surface. I think most people are concerned with the entire cooling system passages, most of which no one can access. What we really need is a product that will remove built up scale from the cooling system by using a flushing process. Do you have such a product to recommend? Thanks for responding to this very important item to all of the boating community!
We generally use the CRC stuff, but have used Salt Away in the past. The CRC is more readily available in our area. Both products seem similar. We boat 3-5 days a week in the summer months-all saltwater. Our boat lives in a slip about half the year.The motors get flushed with fresh water every evening when we are done for the day. The manual reads 15 minutes per motor. I made a "Y" for the hose to save time. (The "Y" also helps to conserve the Salt Terminator-One cup per flush x's 2 motors) We use salt terminator only before the boat sits for a few days or weeks. The last set of 150's were having no major issues after 13 years in saltwater. (granted, I only ran them for the last 4 of the 13.) The new set is on summer 3. I hope to get more life from this set. Time will tell. Thanks for the great content.
Florida : we wash out our boat engines with this!
Midwest/ North: we wash our vehicles in the winter with this!
Great video. I love the saltaway product. I set up a 600 liter trough and dosed it up and when I get back from fishing I lower the outboard into it and leave it running for 15 minutes until the thermostat has time to open and really flush the cooling passages in the powerhead otherwise all that gets cleaned is the pump and leg with short washes. My motor ran really cool once I started this. Only need to change it about 3 times a year. Cheers
Love your videos keep up the great work
Had a 98 Yamaha with overheating issues .water pump worked fine but engine would overheat above a certain. A local marine mechanic said I probably had buildup in engine. Took water jackets a heads off and couldn’t, believe the crud in the engine. After much cleaning and scraping ,put it back together and it ran great. Started using salt away after that. Thanks for your videos.
I have a 98 Yamaha V6 as well . Previous owner used it only in fresh water. I fish mostly saltwater. I used salt away , and freshwater flushed after every use. I ran out of salt away and used CLR and liquid dish soap. Worked the same, and cheaper.
I had a 1988 Evinrude 90hp when I purchased it, it had a known overheating issue. The previous owner replaced the thermostats but had the same issue. I flushed salt away through the cooling system while using a temperature gun and saw the temperature drop to normal within 5 mins of flushing. It never had a cooling issue again.
I am rich by no means and have a 2017 Bayliner F21 with a Mercury 150 4 stroke.I guess you can say I over service my engine. The way I think of it there are no parts stores when I’m offshore. I do the 300 hour service every 100 hours. Why are you ask, I want to see the condition of my engine. I religiously flush my engine wether freshwater or salt water with salt away. Not only do I flush the engine wash the boat but also spray the engine, it with the salt away run it and let it dry then give it a good dose of T9 boeshield. The engine has over 600 hrs and still looks brand new under the cowl! Thanks again! Can’t say enough about this channel
I use CRC salt terminator. It's a little cheaper when you buy it by the gallon and it seems to be pretty effective. I've been flushing and rinsing my boat/outboard with it after every saltwater outing since I bought the boat 5 years ago and I believe the extra time spent doing it pays huge dividends. Out of Charleston, SC. Love the videos, keep em coming 👍👍
I do this without removing the heads:
Get a BIG rubber maid container, big enough to put under your lower unit. Buy a sump pump, like one designed to pump out a basement. Using hoses from your local hardware store hook the sump pump up to the flush valve of you boat and set sump pump in rubber maid container. Fill with 4 gallons of water and add Barnacle Bust concentrate to container. Remove thermostats from engine and replace thermostat cover. Run sump pump for one hour with solution, then flush engine. This stuff will remove all organic material.
Yep. I'm pretty anal when it comes to flushing my outboard, even if I'm going to use it the next day. They're just too darned expensive to neglect. . I use Salt Away almost religiously. That said, I descaled my outboard in 2017 after watching other YT videos similar to what you described (although I ran my pump all night long) and I couldn't believe the debris I found in the bottom of the tub the next morning.
And, I wasn't even having any problems with my engine. I decided to do it solely based on the fact that -- even though Yamaha says to just use the little hose doohickey thingy without running the motor -- I learned water doesn't actually get beyond the thermostats using that method.
So, I removed (and replaced afterwards) the thermostats. I also removed some of the internal zincs that I could reach and tried vacuuming out anything that was loose before. I connected all the hoses and let it flush overnight. Then I flushed it for a day with fresh water.
@@csrboltfan2643 Yeah, I was pretty amazed at how much scaling came out of my engine after doing this process. What I discovered was that my thermostats weren't opening on just the flush hose so I was not reaching certain parts of the engine. Now I run the engine every time I flush to open up those thermostats. However, I'll do a descale every few years to keep it clean. Maybe next time I'll run the fluid through longer. I bet after an over night flush yours was spotless!
I spray my trailer axles, brakes and lights with that stuff in the morning when I know I’m going to be leaving my empty boat trailer in the parking lot in the sun all day.
Same here!! It’s fast and cheap insurance
@Eric Davis great idea, that never occurred to me to do that. I try to run my trailer after launching through the water rinse station but sometimes due to time constraints or it being too crowded, I'm not able to. Thanks for the tip!
@@toddcatey855 just use a pressurized gallon sprayer premixed with salt away and water that you can get at Home Depot for garden spraying.
@@nicksreviewsmiami even better....thank you!
Great idea I think I’ll do that from now on.
There’s a product called rydlyme that’s concentrated and they have a marine formula. Mix it in a 5 gallon bucket when you do your impeller service and drop a sump pump in the bucket. Use a garden hose and push it in the intake tube. After removing the thermostat turn the pump on and let it run for 4 hours. Know it’s a lot but I do the impeller and thermostat every 100 hours anyway so I can do fuel service and spark plugs etc while it’s running
I recently did this with good results.
When I worked on inboard diesels we used rydlime for heat exchanger cores , it was rough on aluminum , I’ve used industrial vinegar for aluminum parts , they sell it in the pool chemical department at Home Depot
I ran it through my 21 yr old salty Honda for only about 25 min (too chicken to run it longer) and got a bunch of stuff out, there was a lot of what looked like beach sand in the bottom of the bucket when it was done. Looking in the thermostat hole before and after you could see that it took a lot of stuff out.
rydlyme is 5-9% hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid)
@@nathanbruneau1822 Most applications I have seen with this product is lower unit off and pumping up through the water pump tube up to the powerhead, but some have rigged a pump to a modified muff setup and achieved decent results. Pump goes in a tub under the motor and recycles the product through the motor and back into the tub, circulating for 2 to 4 hours depending on the amount of scale to be removed. Works best when thermostats are removed for the cycling of the product. Rydlyme is diluted 1:1 I have done a lot of research on this product because I had overheat issues at idle on my engine.
I reserve salt away mostly for running through the outboard after every use, and wash down trailer every quarter with it. Plus use lanolin on the trailer in between. Salt away seemed expensive but it’s been great to clean out the water jacket around the outboard. Certainly can highly recommend it!
I’ve noticed with customers boats that the ones who use their boat often, run them hard, and go for longer runs. have less salt build up and corrosion. Granted this is what I can see from thermostats/block zincs. I think this is because while saltwater leaves behind salt it is when the water has dried up. When your running hard it’s pushing a lot of water through your cooling system. Keeping the build up to a minimum. Now when you get sand and debris in their it’s a whole other ball game. If you are going to flush one of those products can be more effective than straight water since some water on the dock at marinas can be really hard water which also leaves behind scale. Corrosion also seems to vary with engine models and manufactures.
I use Star Brite Saltoff to flush my motor every time I come back. I’m a recreational boater in salt water.
I really like your videos as they are super informative. Thank you.
My story about salt:(keep in mine just starting out at 17 years old )
My neighbour asked me if I could look at his outboard (2000 Honda 8hp), I said sure. He told me what was wrong with it when he put it away (gears skipping, was tons of junk in the lower unit gear casing so cleaned it out seems fine now) we’ll I noticed lots of salt build up in the engine ( the engine had sat for 5+ years after taken out of salt water) so I cleaned it started it, ran fine, when you gave it throttle, it would stop peeing, weird so I took the lower end off, found a bunch of sand and a HOLE in the water passage for cooling water ( salt had corroded the lower end making it brittle). Currently he’s deciding what he wants to do becouse the hole has to either be fixed for have to find a new lower unit for the motor, well there’s one story I’ve experienced with salt and boat motors
I have an older Johnson 115 v4. It was overheating so I pulled the water jacket covers and heads to clean out all the passage ways. Just like your video, all white and clogged. I also checked out the thermostats..... white and clogged with salt. I didn’t use any product.... just picked and wire brushed it all out. A necessity for salt water engines
Carb cleaner and contact cleaner really are meant as a solvent for grease (nonpolar molecules), so no need to waste it getting rid of salt. This stuff must do something to break up the salt crystals. I’ve run this stuff through my engine and I guess it’s doing it’s job, but it’s soooo satisfying to see the salt melt away!
Great product use it all the time, Discovered it about 5yrs ago.
Put this mix in a small gallon garden sprayer. After launch I rinse the brakes, lines etc with it, especially when the truck/trailer will be sitting at the ramp for any extended time.
Ran barnacle buster through a 1999 70 hp Johnson for a couple hours before disassembly. The saltwater motor was completely clean. No need to scrub parts.
Best boat community on YT and very helpful forums! Love Born Again Boating! The rest of you clowns need to subscribe! 😎
I sprayed the boat down with salt remover soap and it works great. Never flushed engine with a salt remover but after this video I will start
I like salt gone…best bang for your buck…very concentrated (100:1) - so you get a lot of flushes out of a gallon…I use it every time I run it and I also let it flush for 10-15min…I do think a good descaler is a good maintenance item too…maybe every 3-4 years or certain hours…I’ve done it when I buy a used boat and it’s pretty amazing how much sand and scale comes out of a “I flushed it every time” engine!
Please cover the in-between products, like Rydlyme, Barnacle Buster, the West Marine brand (forgot what it's called). Strait acid works great, but it also attacks the metal, especially zink and aluminum. These products are I believe buffered acids, which means they're acidic but buffered with chemicals to reduce the unwanted reaction with metal such as aluminum. These strait dissolve the salt, no scrubbing required.
This is why I’ve stuck with my closed loop I/O’s and Inboards, I still have to deal with salt and scum but on a much smaller scale.
I’m assuming the engine in question here wasn’t flushed very often, if ever, but that’s still too much like work for this old guy
I have used both Salt Away and also the CRC Salt Eliminator brand both with good results. I also had a mechanic say that Dawn dish soap will do the exact same thing. He suggested first flushing the motor with fresh water for 4 to 5 minutes then turn off the hose and disconnect it and then pour less than 1 ounce of Dawn into the hose, reconnect it and run the hose for 30 seconds but no more than one minute and then turn off the hose and engine. He said he's done that for many years and he has disassembled the engines and they are spotless inside. Anyhow, I am still using Salt flush product every time I use the boat or my wave runner, without fail.
Thanks for the hands on comparison and showing what the products do when sprayed in concentrate directly on the salt. I would love to see a side by side comparison of the internal parts of two motors that have similar usage, but one has been routinely flushed with a product and the other not. Also, since the product is made to be diluted when used for flushing, how much decrease in salt removal do you think you would see?
Yup, I swear by either one of those products I’ve owned two Yamaha outboards and just recently bought a 2022 Dusky with a 300 Suzuki and all three engines have had and continue to get a full flush with the salt away after every outing and although the Suzuki is new the two Yamahas ( 115 two stroke & a 250 four stroke) never ever had any cooling issues what so ever, I’ve used the salt away as well , to me they both work pretty much the same with the same results 👍⚓️⚓️
Salt Away every time!! I even keep a spray bottle in my truck for spraying down the trailer hubs, springs and spring hangers after launching.
One might surmise that In The Age of Oil Injection and EFI and given the horror of salt damage as well as The: "OMG I'm not taking those Power Heads off", the Out Board Engine might come with a Radiator Unit.
I mean; if gas mileage AND performance as well as extending the Life of that very expensive Motor are or should be the focus, then a thermostat control balanced engine temp. would be a must?
Yes yes I know there are some models, I'm just sayin' it should be adopted as universal?
When I super trim out my Merc; the water pressure drops and the engine temp rises??
A Well Cooked lower unit water pump can fry the drive to the prop.
(don't ask me How I Know this!)
But you learn a lot about Your Choice in Brand Names.
I blew mine up and took my Taylor 19ft with a 270 hp Mod VP to my Boat Guy He called me a couple weeks later and said; she's ready to go AND Ive got a surprise for you.
(Im thinkin' a $2000.00 surprise 1987) Mercury Motors installed a "Lower Water Pick Up (as if they didnt know what I was doing) California style nose cone (tricked out my Cleaver) NO CHARGE and past the warranty???
I only paid the boat guy to re and re.
Yes, I had written to Merc and I Knew the warranty was gone I but I was sincere and explained that My Dad always ran Merc Products and that they were an institution in our family and that come what may in terms of the cost, I would remain faithful to Merc and expect my Kids to do that too.
Yeah, yer gonna pay More for a merc but when it comes to Standing behind the Product, they are the best.
Radared her at 104 mph. up from 98.
@Born Again Boating. Thanks for this video - Very informative.
I always rinse the motor with salt away in the following sequence rinse with fresh water - rinse with saltaway - rinse with fresh water - my question would be if it is harmful to rinse your boat with Salt away every time - the myth in our area is that it damages the zinc film. Internal Zinc anodes tend to wear faster than usual which I believe supports the theory.
Thanks for any feedback
Harmful = no to the boat Harmful to the Zinc = yes. The Materials Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) on Salt Away lists the active ingredient as sulfamic acid. Zinc is chemically active with the acid. You will likely need to replace the anodes sooner but if you apply SaltAway and flush the anode as best you can you should be ok.
I flushed an old 2stroke with baking soda. Got it to pee again.
We run our boat in brackish water but we always put in up the river where it’s fresh so we don’t have to worry about tides. We never have to flush out our motor.
I use the dispenser that came with the saltway and works great for the gear. I also use it to flush the outboards every few hours, but no schedule or anything since I always flush the engines with fresh water.
I also never go on shallow waters for the same reasons you mentioned.
I understand that using saltway every flush is great, but since money IS a factor, what is the recommended intervals to use it?
You ever use Rydlyme? We use it all the time down here. Some times multiple treatments will cure overheating issues tremendously.
Great videos! But have try CLR Rust & lime removal for salt?
I believe one of the issues is, boats owners flush the engine with regular and not destilled water. Rain water is good too.
Use Salt Off regularly and freshwater flushing on warm engine, my DF150 looks new inside and engine anodes are less cacked in
I just did a series on replacing my brothers Short block on his power head for his Suzuki DF140… he had some salt in his water jackets too but his big problem was he over heated his powerhead way too many times
I tend to be forgetful so my way of remembering to run salt off is every time I wax the boat for me every 3 months and that way I keep her clean inside and out, salt away is what I use.
After every trip I flush the outboard with fresh water then saltaway through ear muffs. Every 100 hours aside from draining the oil I pull the thermostat housing to regrease the seal. I have never noticed salt build up under the housing. I assume it must be working. I also wash down all my fishing gear, boat and trailer with saltaway, before freshwater wash down.
The only complaint I have with saltaway is their dispenser. It is weak and expensive to replace. I reinforced the dispenser by custom fitting an abs (sewer pipe) cap and gluing it around the area where it always breaks. It has held for 3 years so far. Unfortunately, I cannot upload a photo to show what I did.
Some says they do flush regularly nd when we open the motor, you could sea every holes been closed with the salt and sand.
Use salt away on my Yamaha f150 and my seadoo fishpro after every use here in Florida. Great stuff
Dremel tool wire brushes work well also, thanks for the vid.
MercMen Restorations llc
I use salt away all the time. Salt off does not work as good or as fast. That’s just my opinion, I am not a boat repair mechanic, that’s why I watch you Arron. Lol. If my motor gets as bad as those you where showing us it is time for a new motor or time to get off the water and buy a dune buggy. Stay safe out there! 👍😎🌴
I also have a brand new Suzuki Before I even started the motor I sprayed under the cowling with the anti-corrosive spray the entire engine a year later my motor looks brand spanking new
First! 😁 Holy crap! That’ll scare the hell out ya. I flush everyone I return from a trip, you make it sound like these conditions are inevitable. True?
Were these components part of a boat that was flushed regularly or were these like worse case scenario?
I was wondering the same thing
I'm a newbie boater loving your channel. Motivating me to get my skiff back on the water. But I can't help but cringe when I see how you treat that tool box top. I'm a mechanic and know how much those can cost lol.
Just flush my outboards every single time after use straight away after getting the boat on the trailer with fresh water whilst the engines are still hot. Been doing this since 1997 (Same outboards to date) and yet to see any salt build up. Do it religiously and you wont need any of these products. These products will come in very handy when purchasing a second hand boat that or outboard that might have skipped a few flushes :)
Ive heard of people spraying pressurized water into their water system and that works too, if you dont wanna remove ur head. Probly would not work as well but its an option. Still have to remove the thermostat though
Have you ever used an ultrasonic cleaning machine to remove the salt buildup?
Was there not an attempt (years ago) to attach some sort of high energy/frequency hydro sonic pulse mechanism on the head of an outboard? The "idea" was to send some sort of vibration through the outboard's head while in operation, in the same way a ultrasonic parts cleaner uses vibration induced bubbles to blast foreign debris free from surfaces, in an effort to keep the interior cooling passages free of deposits. Interesting concept, but obviously it did not make it into commercial production. Can anybody shed any light and fill in the blanks of that effort? Anybody else remember that?
Can you explain again how to use salt away during the regular engine flushing process, please? Thanks in advance.
it comes with adapater you hook to your muffs, i flush with fresh water for 10 min or untill thermostat opens then open valve to salt away and run till jar empty..... i use after every use and never have saltwater issues here in hawaii as all my friends. iv used both west marine and original salt away and just use whats on sale because its expensive when used 2-3x a week....
@@beardedtraveleradam same but I only have the Salt Away on until every port, exhaust etc is foaming. Then I shut it down.
@@beardedtraveleradam Thanks for the info. I have a four stroke Yamaha so, is there any type of adapter that can be attached to that garden hose on the side?
@@floridaoutdooradventures8981 ya its same as atttaching to muffs has garden hose threads male and female.... not sure on yamaha but if i did that conection it wouldnt go thru thermostat and cooling system... only can run on muffs thru lower leg unit.....
@@beardedtraveleradam Good advise, I too follow this protocol. The key being flush with fresh water until thermostat opens then switch to salt away. However, it is only necessary to continue the flush with salt away for an additional 20-30 seconds, any longer is a waste of product with no greater results achieved.
Happy boating all, from Bellingham, WA and the beautiful San Juan Islands!
I use salt away every time I get back and flush motor with it every time
So I drive 3 hours home after fishing salt water in Texas in the summer. 100 degrees +. If I don’t have access to a water hose is it worth it to make some kind of garden sprayer adapter for the flush out and at least push one gallon of salt away through? Or push some concentrate in to coat everything?
I watched another video where the person was at a salt water wet slip. He used Salt Away, but through the quick flush hose. He ran the engine until it was warmed up, shut the engine off. He then attached the mixer then ran fresh water through before turning on the mixed salt away.
I wondered if running fresh city water through first would close the thermostats before the salt away did its thing, and can the mix be used and push the salt water out.
Dude those sanded water galleries are most probably worst case situations. Where I'm from every boat ramp has a free flushing and rinsing area. Run fresh water through the engine for 5 minutes after every outing and that sanding choking and salt problem won't occur.
Help!! Dealing with a plugged coolant passage on a 95 suzuki 140 2 stroke. Here in oregon we don't usually have salt damage but this engine is an exception. Only blockage is post thermostat thru the head. Engine overheats. Of course I would love to remove the head and scrape it all out but the bolts won't turn do to crazy amount of corrosion. Still runs amazing but gets way to hot. Tell tail pees great. Ran it with thermostat housing removed water is flowing everywhere but when I fill the passage in the housing for post thermostat it just pools. Any ideas?
Hi thankS for video
You’re welcome 😊
@@BornAgainBoating cheers
Most peoplen here in the north flush their motors in clean water when they take them out for the winter
Dumb question? I have a house water softner that uses salt to treat the well water. Keeps the house faucets from corrodeding, dishwasher and toilets stain fee and clean, ect. I have no choice but to flush my F250 out when I get home. I use salt away after every trip. Is the water softener and well water working against me? I boat mainly in the Chesapeske Bay. Maryland.
The old times at the boathouse here in the Puget Sound use a vinager and distilled water mixture in their motors when they start to heat up.
Let me tell u....u are a Master...and i'm not exagerating
Need help guys . Question : I have a 2000 Proline 340 with dual 300s Verados, both are 30 inc shaft. I want to ad a third engine 30 inch shaft also. Can I use a triple 30 inch set of engines without running to issues lifting the corner engines a bit to compensate or they corners need to be 25 and center 30? Also I have 69 total inches on my transom before it makes a curve for another 16 inches . Can I install three Verado engines on 69 Inches or 5.75 feet ?
What is the best way to protect the cylinder walls and pistons before cleaning the water passages?
I've seen it used in test tanks for small motors
Have you ever used a Lime Away product on salt build up? I have seen it used before and actually worked 4x better than the salt away product...
I've had success w putting salty outboard parts in the dishwasher. Usually when doing a rebuild.
your wife must be very patient
@@billbeck5232 yeah man she hates me
So I rebuild my 2.6 Yamaha ox66 200 hp , I cleaned and painted the cooling passages on the heads and exhaust and no it runs hot open overheats over 4000 could the paint cause it ? I also think I may have one if the gaskets on the exhaust backwards or it's the wrong gasket because there is a slight water leak and that's the only place I can't confirm that's the cause of the water leak , makes 10-12 psi of water pressure when the over heat occurs , go to neutral and rev it up and it cools right down
So I have a 1-year-old motor and this year I did suck up some sand that caused some overheating but I was able to get it clear. Do I need to take the entire motor apart like you did in this video or do I have some time
Wonder if I should try these on some of the aluminum parts of my NY cars that seem to have whitish corrosion. Intake manifolds, bumper parts.
Absolutely, wash your entire undercarriage with salt away!
We go out to salt and brackish water but come back in spring water for 30 minutes so I never worry about salt build up but should I ? It came from a all salt area so I maybe should flush it with a solution anyway I guess.
The blue would be a dye additive maybe something like calcium copper silicate. The darker product contains more dye!
With the thermostats closing due to cold water from the hose, does the flush get thru the heads and block?
Is there a screen somewhere between the water pump and the engine etc of a verado?
Have both salt away and salts gone both seem to work well
Is it okay to reuse the head studs on a 2 stroke? I know you can’t on automotive applications.
What if you just had a 5 gallon bucket full of the stuff and dunked your parts in it? Seems like you would waste less than constantly spraying it.
Use Barbados works great!
I feel like you can use a pressure washer to blast off all that salt from those engine components... But again, I am not a mechanic...
I was told using “hair conditioner” works just as well and a whole lot cheaper. Any. Comments
In Italy don't exist salt away, I use citric acid, there is also a video in my yt channel
I will say that I went to the keys , flushed the motor through the port for 20 minutes , then ran it on ear muffs for close to an hour and when I took it apart there were still little balls of salt in the heads
This is where a closed loop cooling system would be a great thing! Keeps that salt water away from your engine. I hope its only a matter of time till manufactures make this happen on outboards.
If you flush your motor out on a regular basis you shouldn’t have any problems with salt. If you’re too lazy to do it that’s your problem. It’s not that hard.
@@UltraMagaFan u missed the point. It would make boat maintenance easier and the engine should last longer with the closed loop system. You wont suck up sand, shells or any debris from the pump.
BTW I am in the southwest. I dont have to worry about saltwater. 🤷♂️
@@RocHopn How would it make maintenance easier? You would have to have a coolant tank, radiator, fan, and a pump which just add complexity and weight to the engine. It would also take up a lot of space in the boat. I don’t see how they could fit a radiator big enough in the engine cover. Also if that pump fails your motor is done. With a closed loop system you can’t see it pee out water and you would never know if it stopped. You also have to buy coolant every year which just adds an extra step to maintenance. There’s a reason they haven’t done it yet. Anyways if you aren’t driving through sand all the time and you flush your motor out on a regular basis like I said you shouldn’t have any problems.
BTW why would you say “keeps the salt water away from your engine” if you don’t live near an ocean? You’d think you’d be talking about keeping sand out instead but I guess not.
@@UltraMagaFan does it matter about the pump? Water pumps have weep holes for that reason. Do you monitor that "peeing" while running your boat? I would say you dont. So you could still damage the motor.
You dont have to mount the radiator on the motor. Could mount radiator in a bunch of places. If your buying coolant every year then something is wrong. Point is we can make it happen. The weight gain is minimal to the longevity of the motor.
I see your point on the simplicity of the current systems. I just think we can make things better. I also like how u assume that I am lazy and dont take care of my stuff. Thanks for the laugh with that.
@@RocHopn Why would you want to make that happen though? You don’t even need a closed loop system these motors aren’t designed to go through sand. If you flush them out on a regular basis like i said you shouldn’t have any problems. The motors in this video have been severely neglected. You’re trying to fix a problem that doesn’t exist. Why would you make a motor bigger heavier and more complex than it has to be? I don’t know if you realize this or not but radiators aren’t small. They’re designed to dissipate heat. Nobody as enough room to put them in their boat. Plus ~100 pounds per motor isn’t “minimal”.
BTW you arrogant shit I said “If you’re too lazy to do it that’s your problem.” That goes toward everyone not just you. Also you don’t know what kind of boat we have. Why would I say that if I can’t see it peeing? I really want to know. Cause we can see it. We have a 196 Bay Reef it’s not that big of a boat. Also you may not have to replace coolant every year I was thinking it was like oil but it’s still adds extra cost to maintenance. A gallon of antifreeze is 6 dollars I’d much rather use that money to buy fishing lures.
Would CLR (Calcium Lime and Rust remover) work?
I flush after every use. I was using salt terminator but can’t find it. Using salt off now.
I'm an IO guy with a v8. Would this type of solution prolong the life of the manifolds etc.
4 to 5 years normally, before replacement.
What's your thoughts??
Get stainless jt
Can you put salt away or salt off in in a tub when flushing the motor or is that not a good idea as I tub flush my motor?
Its what I'm doing today. Pulled the head on my 50 Honda. Imagine a fresh water cooled outboard. I would last forever. I got a idea......
what about flushing the engine by using vinegar in a large plastic bin and ear muffs on the engine? yes, it'd be about $40-50 bucks worth of vinegar but it would run it throughout the entire engine. I think you'd have to run it for awhile.... an hour?...maybe that's too long on ear muffs?
Do u have anything on head gasket on a 300 verado. 09 model?
My dad has 2 new mercury v8s so I don’t have to worry that much