I finally tackled this project as was able to complete it in about 25 minutes. This video helped immensely. Thank you. PS: if I can do this anyone can do it!
Three of my four burners make the “clicking” sound when turning the knob to the lite position. One does not make this sound. The problem burner does produce a spark at the igniter when any other knob is turned. I hear gas when the problem knob is turned. Would it be most likely that it’s the harness that needs replacing? Any other issue it could be instead of the harness?
Very helpful video. Thanks. This also shows just how poorly designed this range is. Why couldn't they have designed this to be accessible with the ONE front panel removed and all the wire connections for this right in the front along with the assembly. Tearing apart most of the stove to hook up two wires is just plain bad designing.
I agree ... I have one burner that isn't igniting and I have to take apart half of the stove..??? I found just turning on another jet at the same time ignites the burner I am TRYING to use. I have one bad switch and I have to replace all four??..Really bad design...I'm not very happy with my Frigidaire Side by side Fridge either..Ice dispenser stopped working, part of the fridge freezes by the cheese drawer and the cold water dispenser gives a full glass of room temp water before it gets cold..it even admits it in the owners manual... That's it..no more Frigidaire anything for me....
Hi all, need your thoughts. I have a new never used 20 yr old Kenmore gas cook top. The ignitors will not spark unless the knob is turned past the "high" setting. The gas has to travel thru a 3 inch venturi tube. That is a lot of raw gas spewing out before ignition. Is this cook top safe to install in a family home with kids? Please share your thoughts. Txs
Joseph Fung's tip (below) is essential to read & understand. Those little hex head screws that hold the burners tight to the top are really flimsy. If not prepared ahead of time, you will break a lot of them off at the head, EVEN IF YOU ARE CAREFUL! SIMON: please cut in a warning about this. You made it look like those screws jump off with only fingertip pressure. I was careful. applied heat to the screws to help loosen and with all that broke off 6 of 8 heads. Tough in me. Would have been an easy job elsewhys.
I will use PB Blaster on the screws. Seems like heat on the screws would weaken them. I’m a 57 yr old SUPER handy woman and I’m fixing this issue in a rental unit we own. Thank you for making these awesome videos. I’ve fixed everything from front loading washer motor control board to converting a high end slide in range from propane back to natural gas (purchased a 3 yr old $3,000 model for $166 at Habitat for Humanity Restore). I’d be totally lost without Appliance Parts Pros.
This one is really odd...I used 3/16¨ socket for THREE BURNERS - no problem. I go to remove the front left burner...and the 3/16¨ is too big. I try 4mm...too small. I have to try a 4.5 mm nut driver I have to order online. How does such a thing happen? The hex heads were not rounded, The 3/16¨ was simply (slightly) too large. This is the kind of thing that makes your ¨why me¨ mentality go ballistic.
So to replace that knob wire harness I need to disassemble half my range and then put it back together? It would be easier and much more satisfying if you give the home address of the wiring designer for this unit so I can go kick him in the balls.
C´mon, guy, itś not that complicated. Be thankful you got a video that EXACTLY replicates your problem and walks you through the MAX...half-hour easy fix. Gotta be THANKFUL, my dude.
I found a video on how to take one switch apart, and clean the contacts inside it to get it working again. It’s easy with a utility knife. In my case, one of the contacts is broken. Trying to find a replacement to the small metal contact!
I finally tackled this project as was able to complete it in about 25 minutes. This video helped immensely. Thank you.
PS: if I can do this anyone can do it!
Make sure you use PB blaster on the burner screws and screws below the burner. The most used burner will have really rusted screws.
Three of my four burners make the “clicking” sound when turning the knob to the lite position. One does not make this sound. The problem burner does produce a spark at the igniter when any other knob is turned. I hear gas when the problem knob is turned. Would it be most likely that it’s the harness that needs replacing? Any other issue it could be instead of the harness?
Very helpful video. Thanks. This also shows just how poorly designed this range is. Why couldn't they have designed this to be accessible with the ONE front panel removed and all the wire connections for this right in the front along with the assembly. Tearing apart most of the stove to hook up two wires is just plain bad designing.
I agree ... I have one burner that isn't igniting and I have to take apart half of the stove..??? I found just turning on another jet at the same time ignites the burner I am TRYING to use. I have one bad switch and I have to replace all four??..Really bad design...I'm not very happy with my Frigidaire Side by side Fridge either..Ice dispenser stopped working, part of the fridge freezes by the cheese drawer and the cold water dispenser gives a full glass of room temp water before it gets cold..it even admits it in the owners manual... That's it..no more Frigidaire anything for me....
Excellent solution. Many thanks !
You can carefully take apart the inside of the switches & burnish the contacts for better contact my problem solved with one switch :)
Glad you were able to fix your issue! If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Hi all, need your thoughts. I have a new never used 20 yr old Kenmore gas cook top. The ignitors will not spark unless the knob is turned past the "high" setting. The gas has to travel thru a 3 inch venturi tube. That is a lot of raw gas spewing out before ignition. Is this cook top safe to install in a family home with kids? Please share your thoughts. Txs
What is your model number?
Joseph Fung's tip (below) is essential to read & understand. Those little hex head screws that hold the burners tight to the top are really flimsy. If not prepared ahead of time, you will break a lot of them off at the head, EVEN IF YOU ARE CAREFUL! SIMON: please cut in a warning about this. You made it look like those screws jump off with only fingertip pressure. I was careful. applied heat to the screws to help loosen and with all that broke off 6 of 8 heads. Tough in me. Would have been an easy job elsewhys.
I will use PB Blaster on the screws. Seems like heat on the screws would weaken them. I’m a 57 yr old SUPER handy woman and I’m fixing this issue in a rental unit we own. Thank you for making these awesome videos. I’ve fixed everything from front loading washer motor control board to converting a high end slide in range from propane back to natural gas (purchased a 3 yr old $3,000 model for $166 at Habitat for Humanity Restore). I’d be totally lost without Appliance Parts Pros.
This one is really odd...I used 3/16¨ socket for THREE BURNERS - no problem. I go to remove the front left burner...and the 3/16¨ is too big. I try 4mm...too small. I have to try a 4.5 mm nut driver I have to order online. How does such a thing happen? The hex heads were not rounded, The 3/16¨ was simply (slightly) too large. This is the kind of thing that makes your ¨why me¨ mentality go ballistic.
Nice in depth video
I have a Samsung Range and the spark ignition switch has three wires,black red and blue,how can I test it to be able to know that it is working.
What is the model number of your range?
Boy, do I have one hell of a project ahead of me
Excellent videp
So to replace that knob wire harness I need to disassemble half my range and then put it back together? It would be easier and much more satisfying if you give the home address of the wiring designer for this unit so I can go kick him in the balls.
C´mon, guy, itś not that complicated. Be thankful you got a video that EXACTLY replicates your problem and walks you through the MAX...half-hour easy fix. Gotta be THANKFUL, my dude.
It's only one igniter that won't shut off. All other switches on the assembly are functional. Can I just replace the one module? Part# WB22K5083?
I found a video on how to take one switch apart, and clean the contacts inside it to get it working again. It’s easy with a utility knife. In my case, one of the contacts is broken. Trying to find a replacement to the small metal contact!
How do you know if it's a bad spark module instead of a spark ignitor switch?
Chances are if none of the switches work the module is bad not the switch harness...
cool