Thank you for yet another how-to video. You guys have put out a lot of helpful information over the years and it’s greatly appreciated, especially from all the do it yourself enthusiasts here. Your channel has helped me with my own turbo s2k build and a lot of the inspiration to tackle it myself has been from watching your channel so thank you. Wish I could have brought it over from canada for some in person LHT TLC but showing what you guys do over youtube has made all the difference.
Thanks for sharing this with us! I had to replace an ICV on a 90s Toyota Tacoma - quickly learned that a JIS type bolt head was not the same as a Phillips for the bolts that held it together
John, I had to buy Torx bits to change out the grille on my VW... Looks like the whole car is assembled with them. I like to change the ones I may remove in the future with stainless hex heads and a bit of anti-seize... I believe Torx were developed to simplify production line assembly.
My 05 s2000 had this exact problem. It show a po172 running rich code. Tried cleaning it out which helped a lot but still not quite right so I bought one of ebay made in china for £32... and its now perfect. A tip for this job......remove the battery as it makes access much easier. Great video..just subscribed.
I’m a subscriber who gave this video a like. But good, detailed content like this is worthy of additional acknowledgement, so thank you for making the effort to share such knowledge! This appears to be something that every S2K owner who works on their own car is bound to run into at some point. Much appreciated.
THIS was the solution to the stumbling idle on my new-to-me AP1. The shaft would turn, but with resistance. A few flushes with cleaner and it spun freely. Problem solved... great video and I had to use the hacksaw trick on the bolts because no one on earth has a 4mm 5-point star bit 🤣😂
5-lobe tamper proof torx bit was actually quite difficult to find. They don’t have them in stock in big name stores (Home Depot, Lowe’s, Autozone, etc…) I almost ordered it online until I found it in a store called northern tool near me
Thank you for making this video. I’ve cleaned my iac before, and it improved but the car still drops idle too low sometimes and recovers when the fans kick on or stalls. I think the bolt trick at the end is my issue as my car is supercharged. I tightened the two bolts back tight like they came from factory last time I cleaned it. Hopefully backing them off a bit and adjusting the motor back and forth should stop the issue.
The coolant path has a reason. The coolant design assures the idle is higher when the engine is cold. A thermowax activated shaft opens the IACV when cold and the warm coolant causes the wax to contract the shaft when the engine warms.
Cool. You’ll be surprised that this is a “secret feature” which assures a good cold start until all the sensors catch up or if the computer is in limp mode. It works on the principle that wax changes volume when it changes from a liquid to solid and back, which can drive a piston and change the position of a valve. Knowing this can help diagnose other IACV system issues.
Update: I reviewed the service manual myself (00-03) to find information about the IACV features of the s2000 in particular. Apparently, the thermowax device is not present on the S2000, as it had been on many other Honda/Acuras I previously had. Perhaps the coolant path is to make sure there is not "icing" under the right dewpoint conditions which could make the throttle valve stick open. I don't know about anyone else, but on a cold start the engine races up and down. Has been this way since day 1. Maybe Honda SHOULD have put in the thermowax actuator!
Thanks going to get to that since I just cleaned out the injectors on the 02 model year. Love your educational videos, one of these days I'll bring her to your shop for some TLC! Thanks
Many thanks for the excellent how to Video, and I also like the idea how to open the Torx screws, if you don't have a Torx bit set. In Europe these screws are almost everywhere 😅 I recently went through the service manual and saw, the Facelift has a slightly higher idle than the pre-facelift, was that achieved maybe by the position of the motor?
Could you do the same thing, say with a 99 civic, and do you have any advice on the best way to fix the ELD , electric load detector problem. Thanks for all the great information, John and George. You guys are the goats. Thanks again
Since Toyota and Honda is so close to each other it’s crazy to find out that this is happening To the S2000 for them years. My sister got a 2006 Toyota Solara that had the engine light to come on and go off and this is what the code said it was.
The 5th gen prelude like mine is plagued with iacv issues, can see it all day on the forum's, when I hit the salvage yard this is one of the first things I recycle, yes they certainly can be expensive.
Great video! What's your advice and tips on installing a rear main seal on a F20 ? I've been reading that you may need spacers if there a wear groove. Is this correct? Thanks for everything to do!
Thank you! Edit: John thank you for the advice. I installed my rear main seal, and clutch (Both OEM) yesterday and everything turned out great. Besides a few rust belt hiccups.
This can help with this problems ? My car struggling when i stay a long time in slow trafic (1st gear 5mph). I press a bit gas pedal the some times we can ear the engine/exhaust start doing shit and if I Floor the pedal the car wont accelerate and shake me like crazy
so, i think i saw it in your video but just to be clear, the valve should move SUPER smoothly, no resistance at all? mine has a slight resistance even after cleaning. wondering if i need to replace the valve
funny i cleaned mine out a few years ago and an old mercedes tech i work with had the bit to remove the bolts to the solenoid--he used it once in his life for a mirror on a 1989 SL or something
Honda from the northeast will have those bolts rusted solid and the aluminum body will have heavy corrosion causing the valve to sieze. I have purchased a cheap aftermarket iac and swap the solenoid over. A used Honda solenoid will be more reliable than a aftermarket solenoid.
ive tried clean the IACV a few times but how exactly can i fix the idle randomly bogging down when I clutch in? Like when I reverse into my garage and clutch back in to coast backwards the car bogs and shudders for a second then goes back to normal
I replaced the entire Idle Air Control Valve because I was experiencing the same issue with the rpm dropping too fast and the motor stalling out on me, and I’m still having the same problem… any suggestions?
Just wanted to post an update about my 2006 DBW S2000's rough idle. The fix was a Valve adjustment. The #3 cylinder's exhaust valve clearance was less than .003 and spec is .010 - 011. At 66.000 miles this is the car's first valve adjustment. A few months prior to the valve adjustment I had changed the plugs and coils. I really appreciate your DIY help and enjoy the S2000 videos.
You’re spoiling us with back to back videos
Thank you guys for actually listening to your viewers and taking the time to educate people on the proper way to do things!
I'm glad I waited before attempting to clean my IAC. Your way is much, much simpler.
As other viewers have stated, "a great video" and it is uncanny how many S2000 nuances you guys have dealt with. Love the video training.
Thank you for yet another how-to video. You guys have put out a lot of helpful information over the years and it’s greatly appreciated, especially from all the do it yourself enthusiasts here. Your channel has helped me with my own turbo s2k build and a lot of the inspiration to tackle it myself has been from watching your channel so thank you. Wish I could have brought it over from canada for some in person LHT TLC but showing what you guys do over youtube has made all the difference.
I never knew the trick about adjusting the motor orientation, I’m going to try that!
Did this last night because the idle hunt was driving me insane. The s2000 community here in CapeTown is very appreciative of your videos. 🙇♀
Thanks so much 🙏.
Thanks for sharing this with us! I had to replace an ICV on a 90s Toyota Tacoma - quickly learned that a JIS type bolt head was not the same as a Phillips for the bolts that held it together
Same with my civic. I just used an impact driver to break them loose then a regular Phillips #2 will take them out
my 02 is doing this big time! Driving me crazy!
Thank you John! I was having this issue with my idle dropping too fast a stalling out. It’s good now.
@@CapsuleMachina Great. Glad it helped.
John, I had to buy Torx bits to change out the grille on my VW... Looks like the whole car is assembled with them. I like to change the ones I may remove in the future with stainless hex heads and a bit of anti-seize... I believe Torx were developed to simplify production line assembly.
My 05 s2000 had this exact problem. It show a po172 running rich code. Tried cleaning it out which helped a lot but still not quite right so I bought one of ebay made in china for £32... and its now perfect.
A tip for this job......remove the battery as it makes access much easier.
Great video..just subscribed.
If you remove the battery don’t you need to reprogram the stereo? That’s what I have heard before.
@sixstrz8310 yes. You’ll need the radio code
I’m a subscriber who gave this video a like. But good, detailed content like this is worthy of additional acknowledgement, so thank you for making the effort to share such knowledge! This appears to be something that every S2K owner who works on their own car is bound to run into at some point. Much appreciated.
@@VirtualGuth Thanks for taking the time for the comment. Glad it’s helping S2000 owners. Please hit the subscribe button
THIS was the solution to the stumbling idle on my new-to-me AP1. The shaft would turn, but with resistance. A few flushes with cleaner and it spun freely. Problem solved... great video and I had to use the hacksaw trick on the bolts because no one on earth has a 4mm 5-point star bit 🤣😂
Glad it worked out!
Good tip for newer mechanics, slotting the screw head with a hacksaw.
The thing is, the screw head is a #20 torx, which is very common in 2023.
Tim
5-lobe tamper proof torx bit was actually quite difficult to find. They don’t have them in stock in big name stores (Home Depot, Lowe’s, Autozone, etc…) I almost ordered it online until I found it in a store called northern tool near me
Thank you for making this video. I’ve cleaned my iac before, and it improved but the car still drops idle too low sometimes and recovers when the fans kick on or stalls. I think the bolt trick at the end is my issue as my car is supercharged. I tightened the two bolts back tight like they came from factory last time I cleaned it. Hopefully backing them off a bit and adjusting the motor back and forth should stop the issue.
The coolant path has a reason. The coolant design assures the idle is higher when the engine is cold. A thermowax activated shaft opens the IACV when cold and the warm coolant causes the wax to contract the shaft when the engine warms.
The idle valve is controlled by the ecu, it sounds like your talking about a thermostat.
Nope. Take a look at any Helm service manual which describes the IACV operation including the thermowax device.
@@pault6533 I’ll take a look in the Honda Service manual tomorrow and confirm 👍🏻
Cool. You’ll be surprised that this is a “secret feature” which assures a good cold start until all the sensors catch up or if the computer is in limp mode. It works on the principle that wax changes volume when it changes from a liquid to solid and back, which can drive a piston and change the position of a valve. Knowing this can help diagnose other IACV system issues.
Update: I reviewed the service manual myself (00-03) to find information about the IACV features of the s2000 in particular. Apparently, the thermowax device is not present on the S2000, as it had been on many other Honda/Acuras I previously had. Perhaps the coolant path is to make sure there is not "icing" under the right dewpoint conditions which could make the throttle valve stick open. I don't know about anyone else, but on a cold start the engine races up and down. Has been this way since day 1. Maybe Honda SHOULD have put in the thermowax actuator!
Thanks going to get to that since I just cleaned out the injectors on the 02 model year. Love your educational videos, one of these days I'll bring her to your shop for some TLC! Thanks
can I use throttle body cleaner to clean IACV ? Great video and very informative.
Only the best content from LHT.
Excellent how-to John! Love these tips 🍻
Many thanks for the excellent how to Video, and I also like the idea how to open the Torx screws, if you don't have a Torx bit set. In Europe these screws are almost everywhere 😅
I recently went through the service manual and saw, the Facelift has a slightly higher idle than the pre-facelift, was that achieved maybe by the position of the motor?
Looking your videos for years- love them. Thank you! Best regards from Germany ✌🏻
I used cue tips to clean my iacv valve out. They got into to all the nucks and crannys workout having to take the sensor off.
Just in time!! I’m with this problem today
Could you do the same thing, say with a 99 civic, and do you have any advice on the best way to fix the ELD , electric load detector problem. Thanks for all the great information, John and George. You guys are the goats. Thanks again
I think I need to do this, but dang I guess I should do a coolant flush with it as well
Since Toyota and Honda is so close to each other it’s crazy to find out that this is happening To the S2000 for them years. My sister got a 2006 Toyota Solara that had the engine light to come on and go off and this is what the code said it was.
Zero dislikes …. I love you guys
The 5th gen prelude like mine is plagued with iacv issues, can see it all day on the forum's, when I hit the salvage yard this is one of the first things I recycle, yes they certainly can be expensive.
Yes. These rotary style have more problems than the early ones from what we see.
my request has been heard! thanks LHT!
Very nicely explained, thanks for sharing 👍👍.
Great video!
What's your advice and tips on installing a rear main seal on a F20 ?
I've been reading that you may need spacers if there a wear groove. Is this correct?
Thanks for everything to do!
Plenty of oil and build it over the crank so not to fold the seal. It’s pretty straight forward.
Thank you!
Edit: John thank you for the advice. I installed my rear main seal, and clutch (Both OEM) yesterday and everything turned out great. Besides a few rust belt hiccups.
thank you so much for your knowlenge, greetings from Spain
Thanks for watching. I visited Spain a few times as a teenager. I love that place.
This can help with this problems ? My car struggling when i stay a long time in slow trafic (1st gear 5mph). I press a bit gas pedal the some times we can ear the engine/exhaust start doing shit and if I Floor the pedal the car wont accelerate and shake me like crazy
I deleted my iacv on my turbo rsx as a cooling mod. Now I'm wondering if you reccomend putting it back on. What do you think? Excellent info.
Yes. I always recommend a IACV unless
It’s a race car. Street cars with AC and PS need these.
Thanks a bunch John. Great video.
so, i think i saw it in your video but just to be clear, the valve should move SUPER smoothly, no resistance at all? mine has a slight resistance even after cleaning. wondering if i need to replace the valve
If you remove the motor. It should be perfectly free. No dragging or resistance.
@@LHTPerformance mucho thanks. you're working awfully late on a weekend haha
Awesome! Thank you for making this video!
What do you think if I buy a new one, just to play it safe? Do you sell this part? What is the honda part number?
90% of the time we can clean and fix them.
funny i cleaned mine out a few years ago and an old mercedes tech i work with had the bit to remove the bolts to the solenoid--he used it once in his life for a mirror on a 1989 SL or something
Thanks for the info my friend. Have a great weekend.👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Honda from the northeast will have those bolts rusted solid and the aluminum body will have heavy corrosion causing the valve to sieze. I have purchased a cheap aftermarket iac and swap the solenoid over. A used Honda solenoid will be more reliable than a aftermarket solenoid.
Mine only drops idle when I push the clutch in with the a/c on. Any suggestions
Thank you so much going to give it a try!
I can't figure out how to remove that damn coolant hose from under the iacv. The long thin hose
As always very informative. Thanks for passing on your knowledge. Appreciate all your content. Wish we had an expert in the UK like you guys.
ive tried clean the IACV a few times but how exactly can i fix the idle randomly bogging down when I clutch in? Like when I reverse into my garage and clutch back in to coast backwards the car bogs and shudders for a second then goes back to normal
even in neutral if I am just sitting it will randomly shake
What’s a normal idle range to know if your car is idling high or low..
Around 800-900rpm
I replaced the entire Idle Air Control Valve because I was experiencing the same issue with the rpm dropping too fast and the motor stalling out on me, and I’m still having the same problem… any suggestions?
Check the voltage on the TPS
awesome vid, thanks
What about the Dive By Wire AR2's? They don't have IACV.
They don’t have the issue. Hence why almost every manufacturer changed to them.
@@LHTPerformance I appreciate the response. I wasn't clear. I was looking for a fix to a DBW AP2 with a rough/low idle.
@@lorenwatts2920 I would check the basics. Plugs, Valve adjustment, injectors etc for a stumble
@@LHTPerformance Thank you
Just wanted to post an update about my 2006 DBW S2000's rough idle. The fix was a Valve adjustment. The #3 cylinder's exhaust valve clearance was less than .003 and spec is .010 - 011. At 66.000 miles this is the car's first valve adjustment. A few months prior to the valve adjustment I had changed the plugs and coils.
I really appreciate your DIY help and enjoy the S2000 videos.
I think my tps is going bad in my Ap1, it chokes and hesitates sometimes when I give it throttle. Happens maybe twice a month
Use a voltage meter and see if the TPS has accurate read out and no breaks.
Anyone here has P0500 Circuit A code pop up fixed? Been scouring the internet and no answer, can’t seem to figure it out. Any help is appreciated.
I lost the spacers cleaning it - any recommendations where I can buy them?
I don’t think you can buy them. You may try some small washers