Questions on the layout of this network (4 CAN lines instead of 2) and how to be confident in testing this design, watch this premium case study www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/no-communication-network-diagnostics/573-2007-chevy-silverado-no-communication-with-ebcm-u0121.html There is a 14 day free trial! Sign up and then immediately cancel your subscription and you will NOT be charged. Then go and watch this video!! I learned a lot on this one and I know you will too and you will see how I used this knowledge on the Enclave. Thank you!
You get a thumbs up just for the fact alone that this video is almost 52 minutes long. And part 1 that is. BRB, watching it now. Thanks, Paul and Caleb!
As a "DIY " working on a project car this is the best video ive seen so far .its great to see that even "Scanner Danner" has trouble sometimes and looses the plot just like the rest of us instead of just being able to find and fix the fault in seconds with no swearing wrong direction and spanner throwing :-) it gives me hope to carry on with my car
First and foremost, I’m blown away you went inside that truck. I’ve never seen the inside of a Snap-On truck and I’m 55 yers old, that’s awesome. Enjoyed the video, thanks Paul.....
lots videos on youtube of snapon van tours,it is sensor over load,tools every were,to much eye candy,23 k in and i still need stuff ,they are in most towns ,can ask any garage ,when the snapon man comes ,as he does his rounds ,mines on a thursday ,they got routes ,every day,visit places ,got new and second hand,trade ins ,just update my verus,300 for software,and cert my torq wrench
Danner instead of trying to find a ground under the vehicle bring one with you. I have rigged up some ground leads that come with me. For example one end has a clamp attached to the negative terminal the wire itself is about 20 foot long I work on big stuff btw and the other end plugs directly into my meter. Or one end has a clamp attached to the battery negative post the other has my test light attached. Or whatever you want really but no matter what you always have the best possible ground the vehicle can offer. Keeps you from any wrong paths yes the long lead can get tangled up but no worries you have the best ground possible and that’s what really counts especially under rusty vehicles.
Special thanks to @Thomas Stevens who suggested a "Ratcheting Wire Crimper Tool with Interchangeable Dies - For Heat Shrink Connectors, Non-Insulated, Ferrule Terminals" I want one of these now! For those interested, I added it to my Amazon Affiliate page www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
I had the same problems with those crimping pliers , now I use those knipex wrench pliers the 5 inches ones . Work awesome no damage on the plastic and crimp real good
@@ScannerDanner yeah, those knipex are good for crimp with the same force every time, thanks for all the different adjustments u can do many sizes of connectors without damaging the insulation
When it comes to in-depth diagnosis of auto electrical problems, there is absolutely no-one who even comes close to Scanner Danner (although Matt at Schrodinger's Box does come close to being close). Still the best on UA-cam for electrical knowledge.
Great video Paul. A lesson in patience when you have very little history. I bet you have a problem focusing on those wires up in dark places at your age also. I retired after 47 years. Enjoy watching you and Caleb. Babysitting grandson is fun. Thanks. Del
ok, very nice video, one thing I learned over the years is that you start to avoid doing major repairs and trying sticking only to diagnoses specialy with these newer vehicles where everthing is tight in there and lots of plastic where they become brittle overtime and break as soon as you touch them and to top it off we become the last resort where no else could fix it. Well all that comes with the trade so just ride along and avoid the stress. I did not design the vehicles nor it's my problem I only fix them. One thing I am glad of that here I dn't deal with rust or corrosion and wire don't rought out do to road salt, but I deal with bad repairs from other garages. thank you for sharing it's great being able to discuss, watch, and contribute with fellow tradesman through out the world
very good video! Where the importance of following the diagnostic steps is demonstrated in which the arnest could be repaired and analyze that the can network is fine because it communicates with the differential module. I loved the Snap-on truck !!! the new fuel pump module must be reprogrammed on your tow web GM. greetings and blessings to all!
FYI Napa has the same exact little pliers for 20 bucks, Carlisle brand, have a pair. Great video as always Paul. "car falls on me right now it would be a blessing" I had to laugh I feel the exact same way LOL. So glad I'm retired. Stay safe buddy. Very entertaining Thank you.
I agree with you on the low temp solder butt connectors. I tried several brands and had less than acceptable results. Solder wires, marine heat shrink when I can, heat shrink crimped butt connectors with sealant when I can't solder.
Hey Paul, I see that you are using the razor blade for cutting the harness back, I wanted to recommend getting some sewing seam rippers. You put the ball end of it in the harness then cut. So much easier, less chance of cutting other wires. Shout out you, I've watched your videos over the years, you have taught me so much thank you
Great stuff Paul, you looked like every other mechanic going into the strap on van! It doesn’t matter how many years you’ve been in the trade your still like a kid in a candy store! The diagnosis on this was very detailed as usual I’m sure once you fix all that wiring and fit the fpcm it will be sorted.......unless we have another faulty new part like the Hyundai/Kia evap issues. I hope not!
I bought a Snap On crimping set when I was wiring my 32 Ford I built. Factory style crimps thru the whole car, only way to go for proper repairs when possible also. I prefer not soldering since it tends to make wires ends brittle and vibrations break them over time. Heat shrink butt connectors are the second best option to weatherpack versions. (Solid state FP relay inside the FPM) “It’s Dorman related.” lol
I have all those different crimpers in my box (and then some). Depending on what/where I'm wiring determines which pair I grab. It's always nice to have options.
You wondered where that customer lived. Our shop is in the heart of Nashville. There is hardly a week that goes by that we don't have rodent damaged vehicles in the shop. I can't count how many times we've made a repair and within a week, the same exact wire (or fuel line) is chewed up again.
I feel for you... I recently replaced the total wiring harness on my 2000 Vette because of squirrels!!! Also all fuel lines and everything else they could chew on..... I bought it after it sat for over 10 years but it runs awesome now!!!
caleb you freaking made me laugh for like 20 minutes straight with the music at 35:09 LOL great job lol paul you the man, Paul for President!!!! now drop part 2 thanks !!!!
Awesome Diag SD👍 This video is full of knowledge, on how to attack this type of system😉 Special thanks to Caleb & James Danner, you guy's are Awesome😎 Stay Safe Guy's❤
two seperate com lines only one is down and the other is still allowing it to run. i believe one will be LIN 12 volts and the other which is CAN will be 5V pins 6and 7 are a pass thru with 21 and 22. They make mouse repellant electrical tape. Honda sells it. Thank you for the video's
Now I really like this video!!!!! You are showing all the aggravation and struggles dealing with automotive wiring problems and tools that make your job better!!! It’s rarely rainbows and lollipops in Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah bull shit!! It’s a struggle most people give up
I have some of those solder seal connectors. Thankfully I have only used them a few times. I used them on my own car. Subaru cam sensor pigtail. Less than a year later they melted more & came apart. Definitely won't be using them near heat anymore.
Next time you use those solder things you might try splitting the strands in half, pushing them together, and twisting them. Locks the wires together pretty tight while your moving the solder sleeve over the wires. Loved the Vid btw! Like always.
I realized I was using the wrong Part of the crimper when I crimped a sealed heat shrink terminal and their was a big non sealed hole in it. Lol. Surprised scanner danner is learning this in 2020.
I use the butt connectors a lot too. Red butt connectors mostly, fair amount of blue and a little red. Some stuff I sodder but lots of tight spots and 90% of what I do is onsite at the costumers Veh yard.
Hey Paul this is the exact same system that I asked you about about 2 years ago on a Saturn outlook . Fuel pump module was replaced with a dorman part . And it’ kept popping codes over and over again . Turns out 3 modules later I said get me a used GM part or a new one .. put the new part in and 💥 fixed
This is why I like to have cats all over the neighborhood. And there are plenty where I live. Nice video, as always, and a better and better editing (thumbs up, Caleb). About the digital network and why it is not a star network: If you have a derivation from the main lines towards a module, that derivation will reflect energy back and superimpose on the energy in the network with a certain delay. That would mess up communication. There is always a reason for small details that don't look good at a first glance.
I bought a great set of crimpers from a place called Del City about 4 or 5 years ago. They work great and are the ratcheting style. The set I have do 22-10 gauge wire and were about 50 or 60 bucks. I just checked their website and they have a new design set of crimpers for that wire size range but the price is insane at over 200 bucks. If you type in on their search, look for style number 990165 and those are identical to the ones I have but do wire sizes of 16-8 gauge. The one I have is pretty much identical to the ones GM supplied in their wiring repair kits they would send to the dealers.
Wow what is a lot of work for a aftermarket module which is bad.No wonder the frustration is building.I am retired and know how you feel at time.Nice job anyway.Love you video
Brilliant editing Caleb when your dad got p..... Off with the constant chasing, the music was a great choice. I did feel for him though because I've been there many times when its one thing after the other, at my workshop we label them cars as a "Bock"
video looks beautiful, i mean the image itself, colour filters or whatever. maybe it's me and my funny stuff from yesterday, or maybe Caleb knows a thing or two about funny stuff aswell lol. the thumbnail is also looking suspicious :) edit after seeing that truck scene, acid vibes are all over the place. if it's not that, then we definetly have ourselves an artist here behind the camera
Great editing, Caleb! The Snap-on truck and office, plus dad all p/o'ed with the music was great! Love the S/D logo on all the black backgrounds - I have no idea how you did that one! I could probably make whole videos of me in that state. Modern vehicles make me absolutely lose my mind, lol. If you're not swearing doing auto repair, you're not doing MODERN auto repair, HAHAHA! Computers belong on desktops - NOT in automobiles!! A frequent saying around here ... 😁 Man, the mice really did a number on that one! We're in mouse country out here, but I've got 3 cats that eat anything that moves - bugs, mice, chipmunks, snakes, etc.. Haven't had a problem here in a long time! Great stuff as always, guys. Top notch! Now go have a beer or 8, Paul - you've earned it! 😜
I always use ratchet type crimping tool, with the correct jaw for the type of crimp being used. This guarantees the correct pressure has been applied to the crimp. It also prevents too much pressure from being applied causing damage to the insulation. The jaws are also sized for you to use the correct slot depending on crimp size (Red, Blue, Yellow etc.) Another benefit is you can lightly crimp onto the crimp, so that the crimping tool holds the crimp with out having compressed the metal inside. This allows you to push your wires in with out having to squeeze on the pliers to hold the crimp. I would recommend trying a set of these over the plyer type, i think you will like! Below is a link for the type i mean, which come with various interchangeable jaws. I would not like to have cutters on the end of my crimps. They would get in the way with looms, risking cutting wires accidentally. www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-Tool-Wirefy-Interchangeable-Non-Insulated/dp/B07Q32PYP3/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=crimping+tool&qid=1594488086&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlZGMUNJWDhHOVJRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDAzMzE5MldPWVk4VUE3MVA4NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDY2MTUyMzhFTlFOU0JCWTlKSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
@@ScannerDanner I don't want to rain on the parade, but those crimpers are massive, i've got a set, and they are alright for bench work, but would say in the field you would be lucky to be able to use them 10% of the time. I've got a set of the small crimpers you just bought( and the big set, actually I have a bit of a crimper problem i guess)
Great video!!! I hate when shops half ass repairs because it leads to me having to undo their great repair and doing it correctly!!!! This editing is AMAZING!!! Great job!! Danner, stop walking UNDER the car to get to the locks HAHAHAHA
Hey Paul ACE hardware sells a spray product called Critter Ridder it works great pray it on all the wires and any rubber and the mice will leave them alone.
"Unfamiliar system; what do you do? You familiarize yourself. Grab a wiring diagram for this fuel system and see where this relay is." The last guy I worked for would have scolded me for this. Then essentially tell me to punch codes into Identifix and it will tell me how to fix everything. The most infuriating part of that, is the guy is actually smart enough to know better. Caleb and Danner, you are comedic gold. Paul, they do make BIG Kit Kat bars. Where do I mail you a box? A Dorman part failed? That's so uncharacteristic of them. Caleb, get your dad to say THAT with the smooth jazz playing....that or the sound of a car crashing, exploding, and burning. What's the chance you can crack that Dorman module open at the end of this? I'm halfway inclined to believe there actually is a relay for the fuel pump built into the module and, assuming there's no short in the box, the module has no actual control of the fuel pump. It's as if they needed a place to dump a relay (or transistor), so they just stuck it inside another module. It could explain why you've got a working fuel pump with a normal looking pulse width in spite of a brain dead module. Does this sound viable or do I need to go collect my stupid prize? I'm probably not winning a box of BIG Kit Kat bars, right?
You must use the heat shield reflective adapter that attaches to your fuel operated solder/ torch to melt your solder sleeves properly. A little bit of practice will do it.
Take some strands of wire and make some practice article's. Try moving your torch with adapter from side to side. Also try it not moving it. A little flux on the strip wires helps. Once you get the hang of it you will like it. Toughest part is securing the two stripped wires together. I have seen some people use two alligator clips made in to a holding tool.
I was just on Power Probe's website the other day and it looks like they no longer offer the III and IV models but one called the basic and the Hook. I know you can still buy them on Amazon and other places but I just found it strange that it looked like they were discontinuing these models.
@@Mr2004MCSS really!? I have the snap on version and I just bought a second one. It has so many uses. And just picked up the power probe digital temp probes too. Another tool that I use daily.
Somedays I feel like you Scanner Danner, all frustration😁😁😁😁😁good thing you have son Caleb, and big brother, and thanks for the video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍God bless you all 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Omg this is a good video cause I loved it seeing him mad an swearing when u put that music in an he was ranting an raving.... its was hilarious. The mechanics live is a struggle some days for sure
I got a 94 Bonneville no crank no start an its driving me nuts I got my 5 volt ref got power to an from fuse box when I turn key to tun new starter enabler relay if I jump the two yellow wires it will crank but will not stay running. Like I say its driving me nuts lol
That tank would be under a pretty high vacuum at 3.3 volts. I am wondering if you don't have a bad Fuel pressure sensor as well. The no-comm is weird, but I have found it's a good idea to get a different scan tool and try again with no-coms on modules. Hopefully the module isn't actually talking but not relaying data it considers erroneous to the PCM. We shall see in part 2!
If it's gdi then there could be a fuel pressure sensor for the low side..it lives at the incoming port/line at the high pressure fuel pump, run by the camshaft..my point: the fuel pump in the tank might be of variable speed
I know it may be silly to do on newer cars but why not doing a continuity test to check if wire integrity is ok? I've done it several times before to check wiring and worked just fine, at least with wiring that doesn't splice to other locations. Great video btw really enjoy your content!
If one strand can carry the voltage it will ohm out fine but fail to carry the load of the device. Thats why load testing is more usefull than using a dvom
When it comes to pliers and this kind of tools look for knipex or wiha,germany tools quite identical.Can't go wrong with them.Snap on makes great tools though.
Paul + Caleb: Great content as always, might offer one criticism and that's just the number of ads on this particular video seems excessive. Looking forward to future vids.
Man, it is crazy! It isn't just this video it's all of them! Google is killing me lately and I've had so many complaints. I've always used auto ads on everything. I can change them and manually adjust them but only individually! That's 500 videos to adjust smh It will be better after the election
I assume the FPCM defaults to 50% duty cycle to keep the car running if it loses comm or detects a fault while the relay is activated. Thanks for the video.
SD spat his dummy so hard NASA thought a new satellite launched. Celeb this is a great video both for your skills as a producer but to see your Dad having a paddy! All his students should watch this video as this is a valuable lesson .... you can be the most talented person in your field of expertise but sometimes you are destined to have a crap day!
Great video it has helped me eliminate some issues but now im left with no power to PIN 32 Red/ White Battery Pos +. whe I use a hot/ground test probe it test green as if grounded. Ive traced the wire to the rear compartment to a plug by spare tire but cant tell where it goes from there. Any Ideas? I made the mistake of replacing the Low pressure fuel pump and the FPCM before testing wires. I do have power from the ECM
I had a Tahoe that was towed in that had no comm with ebcm,chassis control module and fuel pump control module. Checked High speed can in and out of modules-ok .checked power and grounds -ok. Checked enable circuit,should be 12 volts and it was 0 at each module.BCM supplies wake up signal for all the modules on 2 outputs , one was working one was dead. Replaced BCM and now had 4.5 volts, one module was pulling it down,turned out to be chassis control module--unplugged it and had comm with FPCM and EBCM. The chassis control module had burned out the driver in enable circuit 2 in BCM.That one was interesting.
Yes you have communication with rear differential because throw 6 and 7. But you don't have with ECM because throw 21 and 22 and the same with BCM. May you have an open in 21 or 22 wires. Put scope in 21 or 22 in Fuel Pump Control Module connector to see CAN BUS waveform not enough because may this wave from out from fuel pump control module and not received by ECM due to open circuit. And the same thing if you measure from ECM connector. So you must be measure continuity between 21 and 22 in FPCM to ECM.
Communication to the rear differential control module goes through the fuel pump control module. The fact that I can talk to it (rear diff mod) tells us the come lines are all good. In other words, the data packets from the rear diff mod. must travel through the fuel pump control module on pins 6 and 7 and then out to the network on 21 and 22. If there was an open in the area you are suggesting, we would not have communication with the FPCM OR the Rear Differential Control Module. No need to do resistance measurements on a known good circuit. Hope that makes sense. Thanks!
i feel the pain when it comes to tools. between strippers , crimpers, and combos i have about a dozen in my work box. still run into spots i wish i had others.
Questions on the layout of this network (4 CAN lines instead of 2) and how to be confident in testing this design, watch this premium case study www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-premium-chapters/no-communication-network-diagnostics/573-2007-chevy-silverado-no-communication-with-ebcm-u0121.html There is a 14 day free trial! Sign up and then immediately cancel your subscription and you will NOT be charged. Then go and watch this video!! I learned a lot on this one and I know you will too and you will see how I used this knowledge on the Enclave. Thank you!
I have those same crimpers by OTC 15 dollars, I think snap-on and mac just re-label them, charge extra for name and ease of warranty
Can i use paybal payments to subscribe to your premium channel kindly!
@@michaeln595 WHERE CAN I GET THESE BRO ?
THE EDITING IS HILARIOUS!!!!
Caleb is killing it! Thank you for noticing
Thanks friend!
Next stop . . . Hollywood
You get a thumbs up just for the fact alone that this video is almost 52 minutes long. And part 1 that is. BRB, watching it now.
Thanks, Paul and Caleb!
As a "DIY " working on a project car this is the best video ive seen so far .its great to see that even "Scanner Danner" has trouble sometimes and looses the plot just like the rest of us instead of just being able to find and fix the fault in seconds with no swearing wrong direction and spanner throwing :-) it gives me hope to carry on with my car
First and foremost, I’m blown away you went inside that truck.
I’ve never seen the inside of a Snap-On truck and I’m 55 yers old, that’s awesome.
Enjoyed the video, thanks Paul.....
Glad you enjoyed it! I have to remember that in the future. Things that I think everyone has seen, that I never show. Thank you!
lots videos on youtube of snapon van tours,it is sensor over load,tools every were,to much eye candy,23 k in and i still need stuff ,they are in most towns ,can ask any garage ,when the snapon man comes ,as he does his rounds ,mines on a thursday ,they got routes ,every day,visit places ,got new and second hand,trade ins ,just update my verus,300 for software,and cert my torq wrench
Danner instead of trying to find a ground under the vehicle bring one with you. I have rigged up some ground leads that come with me. For example one end has a clamp attached to the negative terminal the wire itself is about 20 foot long I work on big stuff btw and the other end plugs directly into my meter. Or one end has a clamp attached to the battery negative post the other has my test light attached. Or whatever you want really but no matter what you always have the best possible ground the vehicle can offer. Keeps you from any wrong paths yes the long lead can get tangled up but no worries you have the best ground possible and that’s what really counts especially under rusty vehicles.
You said this for me. The time wasted over a year of fighting bad grounds is many times that needed to make a flying lead connector.
AWESOME IDEA BRO ! THANKS !!!
Also powerprobe helps with that
I just use these.
www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIVOU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_HNBJ4FPP6EH0VBP2NJD8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Great editing Caleb! You guys make quite the team. Good to see a father and son enjoying each others company
Special thanks to @Thomas Stevens
who suggested a "Ratcheting Wire Crimper Tool with Interchangeable Dies - For Heat Shrink Connectors, Non-Insulated, Ferrule Terminals" I want one of these now! For those interested, I added it to my Amazon Affiliate page www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
I had the same problems with those crimping pliers , now I use those knipex wrench pliers the 5 inches ones .
Work awesome no damage on the plastic and crimp real good
Got one and wouldn’t go back nice to be able to crimp anything from open barrel to insulate connectors.
I like the idea of an even crimp every time. Is that the way these are?
@@ScannerDanner yeah, those knipex are good for crimp with the same force every time, thanks for all the different adjustments u can do many sizes of connectors without damaging the insulation
ScannerDanner best part about some of the ratchet crimpers is you can actually adjust them for how much they crimp.
When it comes to in-depth diagnosis of auto electrical problems, there is absolutely no-one who even comes close to Scanner Danner (although Matt at Schrodinger's Box does come close to being close). Still the best on UA-cam for electrical knowledge.
thank you so much for this comment
@@ScannerDanner You're most welcome, Paul. Along with Matt, you've taught me everything. Thank you.
Great video Paul. A lesson in patience when you have very little history. I bet you have a problem focusing on those wires up in dark places at your age also. I retired after 47 years. Enjoy watching you and Caleb. Babysitting grandson is fun. Thanks. Del
Nice
Always treat your Snapon dealer like a friend ( not family ) and they will allow you the use without price
But he knows you'll buy it anyway
Your killing me with the jazz music in the Snap-on truck. It felt really good to hear that car start. Slept good after that. 🎷🎺🎶
ok, very nice video, one thing I learned over the years is that you start to avoid doing major repairs and trying sticking only to diagnoses specialy with these newer vehicles where everthing is tight in there and lots of plastic where they become brittle overtime and break as soon as you touch them and to top it off we become the last resort where no else could fix it. Well all that comes with the trade so just ride along and avoid the stress. I did not design the vehicles nor it's my problem I only fix them.
One thing I am glad of that here I dn't deal with rust or corrosion and wire don't rought out do to road salt, but I deal with bad repairs from other garages. thank you for sharing it's great being able to discuss, watch, and contribute with fellow tradesman through out the world
very good video! Where the importance of following the diagnostic steps is demonstrated in which the arnest could be repaired and analyze that the can network is fine because it communicates with the differential module. I loved the Snap-on truck !!! the new fuel pump module must be reprogrammed on your tow web GM. greetings and blessings to all!
Thank you so much!
FYI Napa has the same exact little pliers for 20 bucks, Carlisle brand, have a pair. Great video as always Paul. "car falls on me right now it would be a blessing" I had to laugh I feel the exact same way LOL. So glad I'm retired. Stay safe buddy. Very entertaining Thank you.
Hey Caleb next time dad has a meltdown edit him red faced with steam blowing from his ears.
You got it
@@calebldanner Awesome!
Some horns too.
lol horns and steam Caleb
may as well add laser beam eyes lol
I agree with you on the low temp solder butt connectors. I tried several brands and had less than acceptable results. Solder wires, marine heat shrink when I can, heat shrink crimped butt connectors with sealant when I can't solder.
Hey Paul, I see that you are using the razor blade for cutting the harness back, I wanted to recommend getting some sewing seam rippers. You put the ball end of it in the harness then cut. So much easier, less chance of cutting other wires. Shout out you, I've watched your videos over the years, you have taught me so much thank you
such a great tip! I know what you are talking about too and never thought to use one of those on wiring harness tape! Thank you!
This vid title should have been the art of visualization. As AVE once said I’m not a gynecologist but I’LL take a look Cheers Very good diagnosis
Great stuff Paul, you looked like every other mechanic going into the strap on van! It doesn’t matter how many years you’ve been in the trade your still like a kid in a candy store!
The diagnosis on this was very detailed as usual I’m sure once you fix all that wiring and fit the fpcm it will be sorted.......unless we have another faulty new part like the Hyundai/Kia evap issues. I hope not!
there is a twist coming up smh. I hated it at the time but loving it for the video coming up! Thank you franko!
I bought a Snap On crimping set when I was wiring my 32 Ford I built. Factory style crimps thru the whole car, only way to go for proper repairs when possible also.
I prefer not soldering since it tends to make wires ends brittle and vibrations break them over time. Heat shrink butt connectors are the second best option to weatherpack versions.
(Solid state FP relay inside the FPM)
“It’s Dorman related.” lol
I have all those different crimpers in my box (and then some). Depending on what/where I'm wiring determines which pair I grab. It's always nice to have options.
You wondered where that customer lived. Our shop is in the heart of Nashville. There is hardly a week that goes by that we don't have rodent damaged vehicles in the shop. I can't count how many times we've made a repair and within a week, the same exact wire (or fuel line) is chewed up again.
The Snap On man takes advantage of my weakness every time. :-) I believe the ratchet type crimpers are the best ones.Thanks for sharing Paul.
WOO HOO, Damn near an hour of Scanner Danner & his son working at his brother's shop, " IT'S TIME TO LEARN BOY'S ". Henry from N.E. PA.
So funny, Car falls on me right now would be a blessing, been there LOL
I feel for you... I recently replaced the total wiring harness on my 2000 Vette because of squirrels!!! Also all fuel lines and everything else they could chew on..... I bought it after it sat for over 10 years but it runs awesome now!!!
This video is truly a rollercoaster of emotion
caleb you freaking made me laugh for like 20 minutes straight with the music at 35:09 LOL great job lol paul you the man, Paul for President!!!! now drop part 2 thanks !!!!
Good morning to you Paul it so amazing watching you doing trouble shooting from starting to the ending. And I am doing the same
Awesome Diag SD👍
This video is full of knowledge, on how to attack this type of system😉
Special thanks to Caleb & James Danner, you guy's are Awesome😎
Stay Safe Guy's❤
two seperate com lines only one is down and the other is still allowing it to run. i believe one will be LIN 12 volts and the other which is CAN will be 5V pins 6and 7 are a pass thru with 21 and 22. They make mouse repellant electrical tape. Honda sells it. Thank you for the video's
Now I really like this video!!!!! You are showing all the aggravation and struggles dealing with automotive wiring problems and tools that make your job better!!! It’s rarely rainbows and lollipops in Zip-a-Dee-Doo-Dah bull shit!! It’s a struggle most people give up
Those are the best pair of crimpers I've used. I got the Carlyle pair from Napa, basically the same pair, for $20.
$20! :( Snap-on owes me some love then haha
@@ScannerDanner I was going to get some off the truck until he said $47, and I said no thank you and did some research.
Jaja I like to see when your car doesn’t start so in that way I see all your knowledge pumping out great master. God bless you.
Love your work Danner from Australia!
But you are packing on them kgs brother! 😄😄
Yeah, I'm approaching 50 and Covid quarantine hasn't been kind lol
I have some of those solder seal connectors. Thankfully I have only used them a few times. I used them on my own car. Subaru cam sensor pigtail. Less than a year later they melted more & came apart. Definitely won't be using them near heat anymore.
That edit from the office.. 😂 with you and snap on. Hilarious, good one Caleb.
😁 Caleb is creative isn't he? Thank you!
Next time you use those solder things you might try splitting the strands in half, pushing them together, and twisting them. Locks the wires together pretty tight while your moving the solder sleeve over the wires. Loved the Vid btw! Like always.
"Car falls on me it'll be a blessing." You crack me up 🤣
I realized I was using the wrong Part of the crimper when I crimped a sealed heat shrink terminal and their was a big non sealed hole in it. Lol. Surprised scanner danner is learning this in 2020.
I use the butt connectors a lot too. Red butt connectors mostly, fair amount of blue and a little red. Some stuff I sodder but lots of tight spots and 90% of what I do is onsite at the costumers Veh yard.
Hey Paul this is the exact same system that I asked you about about 2 years ago on a Saturn outlook . Fuel pump module was replaced with a dorman part . And it’ kept popping codes over and over again . Turns out 3 modules later I said get me a used GM part or a new one .. put the new part in and 💥 fixed
Diagnosis came right at the end there. ‘You need a cat’ 😂😂
Haha sure do!
one of those days eh. Thanks for this video, i actually learned something.
Caleb, Danner needs a hug. But in his defense rodents and poor repairs will give anyone the red a**.
This is why I like to have cats all over the neighborhood. And there are plenty where I live.
Nice video, as always, and a better and better editing (thumbs up, Caleb).
About the digital network and why it is not a star network: If you have a derivation from the main lines towards a module, that derivation will reflect energy back and superimpose on the energy in the network with a certain delay. That would mess up communication. There is always a reason for small details that don't look good at a first glance.
Honda 4019-2317 Rodent Tape, this car needs it.
I bought a great set of crimpers from a place called Del City about 4 or 5 years ago. They work great and are the ratcheting style. The set I have do 22-10 gauge wire and were about 50 or 60 bucks. I just checked their website and they have a new design set of crimpers for that wire size range but the price is insane at over 200 bucks. If you type in on their search, look for style number 990165 and those are identical to the ones I have but do wire sizes of 16-8 gauge. The one I have is pretty much identical to the ones GM supplied in their wiring repair kits they would send to the dealers.
Another subscriber just sent me a link to one like you are describing and I added it to my amazon page www.amazon.com/shop/scannerdanner
Wow what is a lot of work for a aftermarket module which is bad.No wonder the frustration is building.I am retired and know how you feel at time.Nice job anyway.Love you video
Good Tools.........You get what you pay for. Better crimps and long service life.
Caleb, love your editing
I have those same small Snap on crimpers/ strippers and I absolutely love um!! My go to’s everytime!!
Brilliant editing Caleb when your dad got p..... Off with the constant chasing, the music was a great choice.
I did feel for him though because I've been there many times when its one thing after the other, at my workshop we label them cars as a "Bock"
That small set of crimpers are the best I own both of those pairs but that small pair is my go too
Good lesson. Thanks У нас был подобный случай с автомобилем Шевроле Нива. Собака прогрызла провода на лямда зонд и от этого сгорел эбу двигателя.
I’ve got the Napa version of the wire strippers, my new favorites!
This has got to be the best video of all time !
I'm glad you think so! It sure didn't feel that way when we were filming lol
ScannerDanner 😂
@@ScannerDanner wish i couldve been a mouse in the corner for this.............
Great video. But who poked the
Bear? I was rolling,. been there done that.
video looks beautiful, i mean the image itself, colour filters or whatever. maybe it's me and my funny stuff from yesterday, or maybe Caleb knows a thing or two about funny stuff aswell lol. the thumbnail is also looking suspicious :)
edit after seeing that truck scene, acid vibes are all over the place. if it's not that, then we definetly have ourselves an artist here behind the camera
we have an artist for sure behind the camera!! He has found his calling in life :-) Thank you! Caleb will love this comment
Great editing, Caleb! The Snap-on truck and office, plus dad all p/o'ed with the music was great! Love the S/D logo on all the black backgrounds - I have no idea how you did that one!
I could probably make whole videos of me in that state. Modern vehicles make me absolutely lose my mind, lol. If you're not swearing doing auto repair, you're not doing MODERN auto repair, HAHAHA! Computers belong on desktops - NOT in automobiles!! A frequent saying around here ... 😁
Man, the mice really did a number on that one! We're in mouse country out here, but I've got 3 cats that eat anything that moves - bugs, mice, chipmunks, snakes, etc.. Haven't had a problem here in a long time!
Great stuff as always, guys. Top notch! Now go have a beer or 8, Paul - you've earned it! 😜
I always use ratchet type crimping tool, with the correct jaw for the type of crimp being used. This guarantees the correct pressure has been applied to the crimp. It also prevents too much pressure from being applied causing damage to the insulation. The jaws are also sized for you to use the correct slot depending on crimp size (Red, Blue, Yellow etc.) Another benefit is you can lightly crimp onto the crimp, so that the crimping tool holds the crimp with out having compressed the metal inside. This allows you to push your wires in with out having to squeeze on the pliers to hold the crimp. I would recommend trying a set of these over the plyer type, i think you will like! Below is a link for the type i mean, which come with various interchangeable jaws.
I would not like to have cutters on the end of my crimps. They would get in the way with looms, risking cutting wires accidentally.
www.amazon.co.uk/Crimping-Tool-Wirefy-Interchangeable-Non-Insulated/dp/B07Q32PYP3/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=crimping+tool&qid=1594488086&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlZGMUNJWDhHOVJRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDAzMzE5MldPWVk4VUE3MVA4NyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDY2MTUyMzhFTlFOU0JCWTlKSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Nice! Thank you for the link! I'll add this to my Amazon page
added! thank you! now I want one of these :-)
@@ScannerDanner Your're welcome. If you get some, let me know what you think.
@@ScannerDanner I don't want to rain on the parade, but those crimpers are massive, i've got a set, and they are alright for bench work, but would say in the field you would be lucky to be able to use them 10% of the time. I've got a set of the small crimpers you just bought( and the big set, actually I have a bit of a crimper problem i guess)
@@Mr79elk hmm, good tip there! if they are as big as you say then that does change things a bit. Thanks for the info!
Great video!!! I hate when shops half ass repairs because it leads to me having to undo their great repair and doing it correctly!!!! This editing is AMAZING!!! Great job!! Danner, stop walking UNDER the car to get to the locks HAHAHAHA
Get a seem cutter... the ones that sewing people use, awesome for cutting open wiring harnesses !!
You need to use the SD logo every time Paul swears. :-) Can turn into a beer drinking game!
I've got the SnapOn crimpers (small) had them years, you'll love them 👍 is the FPCM a programmable module?
Yes it is! Coming up in part 2 my friend
Have you tried using bare connectors then covering them with marine grade heat shrink. Imo they allow you to get a better crimp and a better seal
I'd order a kit from sherco auto.
Every time I use those I split the crimp like an idiot, but it is nice that heat shrink actually fits over it unlike insulated crimps 😂
Lot of work went in to this one! Nice work Caleb!
"car falls on me now it'd be a blessing" LOL!
Love the quality of these videos!
Hey Paul ACE hardware sells a spray product called Critter Ridder it works great pray it on all the wires and any rubber and the mice will leave them alone.
"Unfamiliar system; what do you do? You familiarize yourself. Grab a wiring diagram for this fuel system and see where this relay is." The last guy I worked for would have scolded me for this. Then essentially tell me to punch codes into Identifix and it will tell me how to fix everything.
The most infuriating part of that, is the guy is actually smart enough to know better.
Caleb and Danner, you are comedic gold. Paul, they do make BIG Kit Kat bars. Where do I mail you a box?
A Dorman part failed? That's so uncharacteristic of them. Caleb, get your dad to say THAT with the smooth jazz playing....that or the sound of a car crashing, exploding, and burning.
What's the chance you can crack that Dorman module open at the end of this? I'm halfway inclined to believe there actually is a relay for the fuel pump built into the module and, assuming there's no short in the box, the module has no actual control of the fuel pump. It's as if they needed a place to dump a relay (or transistor), so they just stuck it inside another module. It could explain why you've got a working fuel pump with a normal looking pulse width in spite of a brain dead module. Does this sound viable or do I need to go collect my stupid prize? I'm probably not winning a box of BIG Kit Kat bars, right?
Caleb and Danner are absolutely comedic gold. Thanks for noticing :-) and for the comment. Great suggestions too about tearing the old module apart.
You must use the heat shield reflective adapter that attaches to your fuel operated solder/ torch to melt your solder sleeves properly. A little bit of practice will do it.
that's what that adapter is for! lol, I still prefer the flame but I'll give it a try :-)
Take some strands of wire and make some practice article's. Try moving your torch with adapter from side to side. Also try it not moving it. A little flux on the strip wires helps. Once you get the hang of it you will like it. Toughest part is securing the two stripped wires together. I have seen some people use two alligator clips made in to a holding tool.
SD where is your power probe? It would be a great ground oh and power right there at your finger tips for testing.
I was just on Power Probe's website the other day and it looks like they no longer offer the III and IV models but one called the basic and the Hook. I know you can still buy them on Amazon and other places but I just found it strange that it looked like they were discontinuing these models.
@@Mr2004MCSS really!? I have the snap on version and I just bought a second one. It has so many uses. And just picked up the power probe digital temp probes too. Another tool that I use daily.
Nice profecional filming and master teaching
Thanks a lot again team Danner and congratulations for your 250k subs I hope the next video soon 😊🛠✌
Somedays I feel like you Scanner Danner, all frustration😁😁😁😁😁good thing you have son Caleb, and big brother, and thanks for the video 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍God bless you all 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Sick Bronco in the bay next to you
Glad to c the struggle is real. I've learned a ton from u bro.
Omg this is a good video cause I loved it seeing him mad an swearing when u put that music in an he was ranting an raving.... its was hilarious. The mechanics live is a struggle some days for sure
I got a 94 Bonneville no crank no start an its driving me nuts I got my 5 volt ref got power to an from fuse box when I turn key to tun new starter enabler relay if I jump the two yellow wires it will crank but will not stay running. Like I say its driving me nuts lol
"Of course the battery was dead" lol always
If the guy in the Orkin truck is unable to sell you a roll of rodent tape, Honda makes one that works really well. Tape up everything with it.
That tank would be under a pretty high vacuum at 3.3 volts. I am wondering if you don't have a bad Fuel pressure sensor as well. The no-comm is weird, but I have found it's a good idea to get a different scan tool and try again with no-coms on modules. Hopefully the module isn't actually talking but not relaying data it considers erroneous to the PCM. We shall see in part 2!
yes we shall 😎, I cannot say anymore just yet, but you are on to something here
If it's gdi then there could be a fuel pressure sensor for the low side..it lives at the incoming port/line at the high pressure fuel pump, run by the camshaft..my point: the fuel pump in the tank might be of variable speed
I know it may be silly to do on newer cars but why not doing a continuity test to check if wire integrity is ok? I've done it several times before to check wiring and worked just fine, at least with wiring that doesn't splice to other locations. Great video btw really enjoy your content!
If one strand can carry the voltage it will ohm out fine but fail to carry the load of the device. Thats why load testing is more usefull than using a dvom
God what a nightmare 😂 I would’ve lost it when other codes started popping up out of nowhere
yep, hilarious. Caleb totally made the right call with the music interlude.
As usual, great video Paul.
“DORMAN!” What a twist.
When it comes to pliers and this kind of tools look for knipex or wiha,germany tools quite identical.Can't go wrong with them.Snap on makes great tools though.
Nice edeting man really nice good topic thanks.
Paul + Caleb: Great content as always, might offer one criticism and that's just the number of ads on this particular video seems excessive. Looking forward to future vids.
Man, it is crazy! It isn't just this video it's all of them! Google is killing me lately and I've had so many complaints. I've always used auto ads on everything. I can change them and manually adjust them but only individually! That's 500 videos to adjust smh
It will be better after the election
I assume the FPCM defaults to 50% duty cycle to keep the car running if it loses comm or detects a fault while the relay is activated.
Thanks for the video.
Part 2 will reveal that ;)
Thanks for this video Paul!.
My pleasure!
Great editing! Great Tech!
That truck, it's paradise!
lol more like a nightmare
SD spat his dummy so hard NASA thought a new satellite launched. Celeb this is a great video both for your skills as a producer but to see your Dad having a paddy! All his students should watch this video as this is a valuable lesson .... you can be the most talented person in your field of expertise but sometimes you are destined to have a crap day!
truth!
Great video it has helped me eliminate some issues but now im left with no power to PIN 32 Red/ White Battery Pos +. whe I use a hot/ground test probe it test green as if grounded. Ive traced the wire to the rear compartment to a plug by spare tire but cant tell where it goes from there. Any Ideas? I made the mistake of replacing the Low pressure fuel pump and the FPCM before testing wires. I do have power from the ECM
I had a Tahoe that was towed in that had no comm with ebcm,chassis control module and fuel pump control module. Checked High speed can in and out of modules-ok .checked power and grounds -ok. Checked enable circuit,should be 12 volts and it was 0 at each module.BCM supplies wake up signal for all the modules on 2 outputs , one was working one was dead. Replaced BCM and now had 4.5 volts, one module was pulling it down,turned out to be chassis control module--unplugged it and had comm with FPCM and EBCM. The chassis control module had burned out the driver in enable circuit 2 in BCM.That one was interesting.
Crazy one for sure!
@@ScannerDanner Oh yeah!
Yes you have communication with rear differential because throw 6 and 7.
But you don't have with ECM because throw 21 and 22 and the same with BCM.
May you have an open in 21 or 22 wires.
Put scope in 21 or 22 in Fuel Pump Control Module connector to see CAN BUS waveform not enough because may this wave from out from fuel pump control module and not received by ECM due to open circuit.
And the same thing if you measure from ECM connector.
So you must be measure continuity between 21 and 22 in FPCM to ECM.
Communication to the rear differential control module goes through the fuel pump control module. The fact that I can talk to it (rear diff mod) tells us the come lines are all good. In other words, the data packets from the rear diff mod. must travel through the fuel pump control module on pins 6 and 7 and then out to the network on 21 and 22. If there was an open in the area you are suggesting, we would not have communication with the FPCM OR the Rear Differential Control Module. No need to do resistance measurements on a known good circuit. Hope that makes sense. Thanks!
@@ScannerDanner
Ok.
Every thing is clear now.
Thanks.
awesome as always.
i feel the pain when it comes to tools. between strippers , crimpers, and combos i have about a dozen in my work box. still run into spots i wish i had others.