Cleaning the jets is also a good way to go but it doesn't change anything about this vent, it just shouldn't be there. When you stop the odd bowl vent the jets tend the clear themselves quickly 🙂
@christopherbuxton3290 That's a lot. It should be helpful. As a rule, it won't help if it won't start, but since you are pushing fuel through the jets, it seems like it would get them back to perfect after a few mow days. Fall is coming, remember to run it empty before putting it away for the winter.
I did what you showed in the video and I can now start my Murray B&S 450E with one or two pulls! GREAT VIDEO! YOU have saved this mower from from the dreaded DON'T OR CAN'T USE IT ANYMORE JUNK PILE! THANKS!
YES, it makes an older man feel good. I have a BIG interest in mechanical things - not a BIG aptitude but I am going to share your FIX with two local buddies who do small engine repair AND a Mennonite run small engine shop where I bought the small tubing for the fix. GREAT JOB! THANKS AGAIN!
@@davidp.swaney353 THANKS!! I appreciate it! I love hearing that I helped a little. I don't make anything doing this, it's all for the fun of knowing I helped someone here and there. I love getting subscribers, it tells me I am doing something right. 😁
Can't believe this worked. 👍🏻 I could keep the mower running by continuing to press the Primer. Once I stopped Priming the mower would shut off. I was Skeptical about this fix.... SO I just tried putting my finger over the end of that (whatever that thing is he capped off) and YEP!!! It stayed running... I took my finger off and it stayed running.... Seems all I needed to do was Cover the end of that for a few seconds and I was fine again... Mower starts and stays running now. I still may plug the end of that off like he did in the video.... - THANK YOU!!!! ....Great video!... I still can't believe it worked!!!! 👍🏻🤓
It surprises everyone when they try it. I stared at the carb internal plumbing for a while before I thought, "This vent should be a problem. "... and found the trick in the video. Later versions of the same carb have a solid piece instead of a vent
😎 Thanks! It took me a while to figure out the first time, I stared at the carb for an hour before putting one and one and one together. Glad it helped!
Thank you! I cut off the end of a cheap pen, put a piece of tape over the little white thing. Then twisted the pen end over it. Tape made it nice and snug.
This doesn't really concern what's in the video but it's the newest video I can see with this engine. Last year I was mowing and it was running great like it had been for 4 years. Then all of a sudden, it stuttered, kinda backfired and blue smoke just start rolling out of it. It didn't last long but it was enough smoke to fend off every mosquito in a 100 yard radius. I thought she was done for. So I took it back on level ground. Looked it over. Didn't see anything visibly wrong. I primed it, pulled the cord and it started and I was able to finish mowing my yard. The next time I mowed, the engine was clearly ill. It had like half of the power it had, it chugged along at times. Grass even slightly thick would stall it. So the first thing I checked was the filter. And it was soaked with something. I don't think it was gas because it didn't really smell like gas. But I'm not sure why it would have been soaked with water. I cleaned the foam filter, sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb. Started it, it burned off the carb cleaner and it actually ran but it was weak. But the rest of the summer was a battle to keep it running. I would prime it and most of the time it would burn that off and it cut right off. It would run for 10 seconds and cut off. A few times it would run but she chugged and stuttered like crazy. Fast forward to now. I took the carb off to look it over. Everything looked great. No debris, no water. Float looked good. Everything looked good. I put it back together. Primed it, pulled the cord and son of a gun, damn thing started right up and it was humming like it did when it was brand new. I was tickled. The first thing I did was aimed for some really thick grass and it mowed it down without any hesitation. I was mowing for probably a minute and she coughed. Then she chugged. Then she cut off. A few choice words were said and I saw gas gushing out of it. I forgot to screw in the 2 screws that hold the carb together. My fault. So I put the screws in. Put some more gas in. Started it and the damn thing started chugging and coughing like it did last year. Why in the hell did it run so good just a few minutes earlier. Put in 2 screws and it runs like crap? So I keep priming and starting it. Run for about 30 seconds and it would cut off. Start it and just shoot a bunch of carb cleaner in it. I probably shot a quarter of a can in it. It finally started sounding better and it was running for probably 2 minutes. So I decided to try it on some grass. It mowed, a few coughs and chugs here and there but it was running and was fairly strong. Then it cut off again. Got it running again, ran over a dusty dirt spot and it cut it right off. So I got to thinking, I got another mower with the same engine. It was just a dumb thought but I figured to switch the filters. Got the filter from the other mower and it was in worse shape than on the mower I'm trying to fix. I said screw it. I switched the filter and the damn mower ran for 30 minutes at full song. Not one issue with it. It was knocking down tall grass and weeds like it was brand new. I cut it off just to start it again and it started right up. How in the hell could switching the filter with an even filthier one make the engine run that much better? So I keep mowing. Happy as hell, and confused, that the mower was finally running good. I hit a dusty spot and the damn thing choked right out and it's back to doing the same damn thing again. Start, run a few seconds and cut right off. Sorry this was so long but what the heck could be going on with this? Why would switching filters, for a dirtier one at that, make it run so good and why would just simply running over a dusty spot mess it up again. The dust didn't even get around the filter/carb. It was blowing away from it.
Where to start... I had to re-read it a couple times just to make sure I didn't miss anything. I will try to touch all the bases you mentioned...🙂 I see a possible fuel flow issue causing it to lean out and lose power and also a flooding issue. The combination of the 2 would cause exactly the type of behavior you are seeing and make it seem like it had developed a personality. 1) The colored smoke tells me the floats stuck open, at least for a moment. The liquid on the filter reinforces it. 2) The dirty filter making a difference but then getting a touch more dust on it making it get worse tells me that the carb is normally running a bit lean. There are probably 4 years worth of fun and games hanging around in the jets. That is reinforced by it running "soft", not having enough power to do the job it has always done. That would cause the motor to run lean. The colored smoke tells me the floats stuck open, at least for a moment. Again, 4 years worth of wear, dirt, gas deposits, loose change(LOL) stuck in the seat of the float. The dirty filter slowed the air, causing it to run a bit richer, that didn't fix it, it just hid the problem (for a minute). Fix: 1) Restricted fuel flow - Clean the tank and filter\strainer in the tank and replace the fuel line. Take it to your local auto store and match it for size, make sure they give you fuel line, I had one give me rubber hose not rated for fuel.🤨 2) Floats sticking on the carb - Replace it. That takes care of your sticky floats and your clogged jets all at once. If they weren't $25(or less) I would walk you through rebuilding it but it's cheap and puts it to bed all at once. With the cheap price of carbs for little engines they are rarely worth the time it takes to get them "right". Once you are done... CHANGE THE OIL!!!(Really! LOL) When a carb floods it ALWAYS dumps gas in the oil, it's just a matter of how much gas got dumped in. The 300e takes a max of 16oz (.47 liters) So... after that overly long explanation of why.... fuel line, carb, air filter and oil change and you should be good to go. 😁 We have a running joke around here where I say "betcha a Nickle" when I am sure of something... Betcha a Nickle.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Thanks for the reply. I soaked the filter in dawn dish soap and water over night. It cleaned up quite well. Rinsed it many times and dried it of course. Then I went and just took everything apart and soaked it with carb cleaner. Took out the, I guess the venturi, and shot carb cleaner in every hole it has until the cleaner shot out of the other holes. Damn near shot a stream in my own mouth from a little hole I didn't see that was pointed at me. Shot cleaner in every hole that gas passes through. Put everything back together. Made sure everything had a tight, snug fit. Put some gas in the tank, primed it and on the 3rd pull it started right up. Strong hum. A very light hiccup about every 3 seconds. I let it run for 5 minutes. Took it over some gravel and dusty dirt and it never bogged down. Went through some 12 inch tall grass/weeds and it mowed it right down. I cut it off. Waited about 30 seconds and it started perfectly on the first pull. Ran it about 5 more minutes. Cut it off and waited about 10 minutes. Started it again perfectly on the first pull. So maybe, hopefully it's gonna be reliable again. I'm right fond of her and plus I don't feel like dishing out $250 bucks for another. But I do plan on getting another filter and changing the oil.
Fantastic! Do the oil pretty quick, with what you described it's bound to have s bit of fuel in it. This made my day, and it's still dark-o'clock I'm the morning. 😁
I picked this pos mower up over my head and threww it 15 feet, bending the cheap frame, breaking a wheel and top.. then i put it in the dumpster. Happy about it.
I have this lawn mower could never get it started no matter after sitting a year and a half. Changed the oil, new spark plug, cleaned the gas tank and carburetor and tried the plug. Can't think of anything else to check, don't see a fuel pump and I don't think there's a fuel filter. Looks like it worked for others though, that's good.
Take the carb off and clean the jets, and it should start right up. I have a pretty recent video on the e series carb and jet cleaning. I think I did it on a 500e, but for your purposes, they are all identical. If you can't find it, let me know. After you see it, you will make short work of fixing it Let me know if you can't find it, I love hearing about people that got their mowers running
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I also cleaned the jets. I have two carbs one from an out of commission mower basically same exact motor.. Cleaned it and tried it also, no luck. I might try it again, but I'm stumped.
Why would I plug the vacuum valve? How did it start "escaping air"? You don't explain how you made the plug. How did you enclose the end of the plug? Can't I just use the cap from a BIV pen if it fits snugly?
What's the fix if the leak is at the seal you first pointed at and the nipple. I plugged the end of the nipple but it is leaking at the seal. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I am guessing a little, but I am pretty sure you mean the seal where the little nipple goes into the carb. If that's loose and leaking I would probably go old world and take it out and wrap it with teflon tape 2 or 3 times. I have seen people glue them in with epoxy and whatnot and that does work but I question how heat would affect it long term. Keep in mind that aftermarket carbs for this motor start at $13 and factory carbs can usually be had on clearance for $20 on Amazon. I have had good luck on the 2 or 3 times I tried them. Once you have the air filter off the only thing you need to be careful of is the linkage, take pics every step so you get it right going back on 🙂 (edit: if you buy a carb for this one, make sure it matches your engine size, the EX carbs are 100% interchangable but the wrong one will have the wrong jets in it and run badly) Let me know how it goes!
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Just tried the Teflon tape before your response and it sealed. Still won't start but it isn't leaking from that point in the carb now at least. I'll pick up some starter fluid and see if it starts then I'm going to check the spark plug and probably drain the fuel and refill with fresh gas next. Thanks again for the quick response and advice. I just picked this mower up yesterday from my neighbor who put it out for free in our alley. Not sure on the history of it's use and maintenance history but it looks almost new and barely used. Blade is sharp and it will make a great replacement for my mother's mower. The linkage mount snapped off the cast motor and cannot be repaired on that one.
@@anonymousanonymous-bd1be This trick was for a specific problem, when it starts with starter fluid and runs good. I didn't realize it was a different thing 🙂If it's been sitting a while you will want to start off draining and replacing the gas for sure, then give it a dozen pulls, if it still doesn't start, clean the jets and it will probably run for sure.
I am not sure, as near as I can tell, it is a design flaw. It's not really a vent as much as it's an alignment peg that goes clear through the carb. Carbs bodies are always used in more than one application with modifications for each use, and this particular mod could have been better.
Cool! Leave it. It's not hurting anything. 🙂 If you decide one day to overhaul eplace the carb you can take it off. You are blocking an internal vacuum leak in the bowl that was allowing the prime to escape, by stopping the bowl vent. It's the only carb I ever touch that even has a "bowl vent", most pointless thing I have ever seen on a mower.🤣
Hi Joseph. I am going to guess it was about 3/8 ID, I grabbed a random piece of tube from my "tube box". If you have a parts or hardware store nearby they sell plug assortments that are even easier than melting a tube. Good luck, let us know how it worked!👍
Looking at the plug they had to have a reason for it but changed their minds,and for sure they know it's a bad set up so many failing they could at least gave everyone a cap on THIE thing before selling it to us😂😂😂😂😂
It's a vent to nowhere. Cleaning the keys on the carb takes care of this problem too, but it fails a lot earlier than it should with that %#%% hole in the side. 🤣
You could get one at an auto parts store. Anything that stops the air flow and increases the vacuum inside the carb will work. My next video coming out Saturday morning goes a little deeper into that specific carb.
That's more a rock catcher than a filter. Most mowers have a semi-respecabke steel mesh filter at the tank exit... That's one of the reasons it's not my favorite design.
Well... some thought it was helpful anyway... 🙂 I apologize that it didn't cover everything you were looking for, sometimes I make an assumption of skill level that I shouldn't, I will work on that and try to improve. Let's get to the questions! 1. I thought I mentioned this part but I should have showed it on the video... I used a piece of clear rubber tube I had lying around the shop, I melted one end with a soldering iron and squeezed it together with pliers while it was still very hot, which sealed the end. You can get actual plugs at your local auto parts store, I didn't have any on hand that were the right size. 2. When you use starter fluid it is the same for all engines. on a small engine like a mower or weed eater you would remove the air filter and spray it straight into the carb opening. I hope that was more helpful for you. Sometimes I make the mistake of trying to keep the video as short as possible by skipping over parts that I don't think are relevant, I will work on that. 😁
Don't get me wrong, the video was great, otherwise. Please keep up the good work. By the way, I subscribed to your channel (I think). Anyway If I didn't before I will now.
@@MJ201254 No worries, I learn from comments, sometimes I learn what I did right, and sometimes what I did wrong . It's easy to think that everyone knows what you know but occasionally I need someone I remind me that it's not obvious if you don't do it every day. Live and learn, right? If you get hung up, go to my about and grab my email, I probably talk to 10 people a week about how this or that works. I am retired so it's fun, I have nothing better to do. LOL
@@MJ201254 I appreciate it. Feel free to comment the way you feel, if you like it, tell me what ya liked, if you hate it, tell me why you hated it. I learn more from people who have an issue than people who just tell me it's great.
They aren't always the same, this fixes a specific issue where it starts with starting fluid and then runs fine. If yours does that, and is an ex motor but stopping the vent doesn't help, it's time to clean the jets. I touch on that in this one. ua-cam.com/video/XJ8KuhVDils/v-deo.html This is specific to the black carb on the ex motors. It's nice to have an ultrasonic but if you don't, clear the jets with a needle or wire.(I show that at the 12:30 mark) Lemme know how it goes!
ok nothing else to do, cleaned carb, gas tank, changed oil, new air filter, fresh gas...wth? I guess we'll see..\its been mocking me, letting me mow a little bit then starting its crap again
These motors can be complainers. Did you clean the jets when you cleaned the carb? They are part of a white insert inside the bowl. I just did a video on a 500 series e motor last week with the exact same carb.
I did I did..and some guy at work convinced me to do it again but soon as I saw it I knew it was as clean as it was gonna get, yes I had got to the jets.....so I slipped gas tank off and cleaned it. It started and let me mow back yard then it just suddenly idled down low and started cutting off again...but you fixed it for me. I believe this did the trick..I just snipped off a piece of thin clear tubing and melted the end, it slipped right on nice and snug and acts like nothing was ever wrong . HA!@@GuysPlayingWithTools
@poncandn1 Love it! One other thing I always check is that the choke isn't sticking. (They can be a little sticky and make the mower act like it's possessed)
Thanks 😁 It's not the "right" answer (clearing the jets is better), but it works every time. I am glad it helped. Edit: Don't forget to hit the subscribe button, that's what is all about for me 😁
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Oh yeah, I tore the carb apart (piece by piece) I sprayed every orifice and every jet port with carb cleaner, compressed air and used a strand of wire to make sure I got everything. Then I wiped it all down, put it back together and nothing. But after seeing your video, I covered that nipple with my finger, hit the primer bulb (7 times) and it started right up. So then I found some old fuel line and heat shrink wrap to make a permanent fix. So far, so good.
@William Chapman That's exactly what I found when I decided to sit down with the carb and follow every passage... all the "normal" fixes failed. When I saw the possible air leak, I put duct tape on it to test, and it worked, so I came up with a good way to make it work every time. I love hearing it work for other people.
A complete carb rebuild would have done the sane thing, but for the reverse homeowner, this is really easy to do, and it does the vacuum problem just as well
Been fixing cars and golf cars for many years. I tore into the carb on the same mower and figured it would be easy. I did everything but clean the jets as I could not find them. I had no idea that the white thing in the middle popped out and the jets were in there.. Thanks you very much for this video. very easy to fix, once I knew how to get to the jets. :) Well, this comment was for the video where you tore the carb apart and cleaned it.. UA-cam moved to a new video while I was typing. No idea what video it was now..
Thanks! From what you said, I am sure you are working on a Briggs ex motor. If you started as a car guy(like me), I am sure the plastic carb had you shaking your head a little. It's a good carb, just different. I have tried to cover all the carbs on little motors and that's one of my favorites for cleaning. Good to hear it worked for you. 🙂
@alicialewis9001 airbox to the carb? If it were me, I would take the screw to lowes and find one a bit larger(not much, just a little). It's either that or replace the carb, so you aren't going to hurt anything trying
Thanks a million, I've been running the 12000 series for years & it was always the rear gasket starts leaking, just got one of these & the same problem you are showing, I've got some vacuum line so this is an easy fix, again thanks.
I am glad I can help 🙂 If you are handy, take the bottom 2 bolts off the carb(bowl bolts) and pop the white part out GENTLY with a flathead, then run a wire through the small brass parts in the white part and put it back together. Everything only fits one way, so if it all goes together, it's right. Do that, and block that foolish port, and I would bet 11 cents it starts first pull. 👍
Why is that even fitted to these carbs ? It doesnt seem to serve any purpose and looks like it should have a pipe pushed over it, but there is no pipe to push on ?
I will be nice and say it was an interesting engineering choice... I think there were 1 too many people involved in the design. It's too bad. Outside that weird little part, it might be the best small engine carb out there.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools - I'm having a fire and die issue with one of these. I've had it apart so many times. I could do it with my eyes closed. Cleaned the jets, blocked off this little white pipe connector, made sure there are no air leaks, blown all the fuel ways through and still it fires and dies. It will run for a little while if I spray some flammable stuff in the intake. I'm getting ready to resort to the last option of a new carb, but dont want to as I feel the fix, if found will be simple. The original problem was that it would start Ok, but barely run. Just about tick over, but that was it. After cleaning out the carb, it started the fire and die thing. But before dying, does rev properly. Any ideas before I commit to a new carb ?
@@herenow2895 Fire and die is almost always the jets. On this carb it's specifically the one facing straight down because it lives below fuel level. *I see this all the time*, this video will probably save you, it covers a Briggs plastic carb that was in way worse shape than yours. I would bet 6 cents(LOL) that, if you follow what I did in the video, it starts first pull when you are done. ua-cam.com/video/Xa938qHp0lU/v-deo.html
@@GuysPlayingWithTools - 6 cents ? Uhmm ? I reckon that would be about 5p on this side of the pond :) I'll check out that video. Many thanks and much appreciated. I've got a can of Berrymans carb cleaner and blasted it through that bottom jet and it came out of all 3 exits at the top end. Even the tiny one. But I'll get on it tmrw. Cheers.
@herenow2895 watch the part with the wire, that's really the magic to it all. Cleaning the body is a good idea but the problems are usually on the bottom jet. I will be in London in August(a lot better than being in Texas in the heat of summer)
Thank you so much for the info. Been really frustrated bc I couldn't get this brand new mower to start and I knew it had something to do with that empty nipple on the side.......THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks! It makes my day when someone gives me a comment like this 😁 Don't forget to subscribe, we are about to hit 1000 and we are having a pretty good giveaway the weekend after we hit it.
Thanks. That's a different(but easy) problem to fix. The jets are clogged. I am going to look at a couple mowers tomorrow that have a similar carb and I will do a quick video on cleaning jets on one. Should have it by Sunday, Monday at the latest.
Update, I am waiting for parts to finish the mower but we included that carb and the jets in the next video coming up... Depending on delivery speed, probably Thursday.
I had a rubber hose that I melted the end on and made a plug. Auto parts stores sell 1/4 plugs that would fit right on if you don't want to melt a rubber tube.
These carbs are made to fit a lot of different applications, in this particular one that line is not used. Some leak vacuum, others don't. The homemade cap is used to stop the vacuum if it's leaking. If yours has this carb and starts easy with starter fluid and runs good but won't start without it, this will fix it.
I dunno, I like the plastic carbs. It took a while to get used to them and there are a couple tricks to them but all carbs are that way. The jets and float systems in them are really reliable compared to some of the older carbs and super easy to work on when they fail.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Seems like a major design flaw. Could there be another vacuum leak somewhere else that combines with this port to cause the start/stop problem?
I messed with that Troy-bilt till I about had my scalp pulled out because the hair was LONG gone about the primer on the other side. It ran fine but would not prime and I had all that straightened out before it sat. I countersunk the NEW carb a little to make sure it wasn't restricted and then covered the air box gasket all over EXCEPT the primer hole with Permatex #2. It WORKED but then the self-propel quit. THAT'S when I got rid of everything but the Snapper walker and Craftsman rider and bought the Stihl. Now she don't have to pull start and I don't have to worry. Now for the spare rider. Thanks!
I don't think I have any permatex or anything like it, with carbs. If they don't work, I go straight to the jets and then clean all the assorted passages. A complete clean and new gaskets would fix the priming problem, but capping the vent also works, and it doesn't hurt a thing.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I usually do but I have stuff torn down and removing rats nests and such so not a big deal. And it's usually a main jet issue anyway like you said.
This didn't work for me, my plug was sealed. I ended up taking my air compressor and blowing into the small hole(the one the primer bulb blows into) that cleared it out and it works.
Working is what counts. You had an air clog in the primer system. I have seen that happen, but air leaks are a lot more common. I am glad you got yours running. 👍
this must be the problem with mine. When I press the prime it will actually spray gas out that tube. Now I just need to find something to plug it with. doesn't look like you can just buy that piece and replace it.
If you are ambitious, a quick rebuild would probably be a good idea. If gas comes out there, something is clogged. I have a couple of videos that focus on the e series plastic carb. They are nice carbs when they work. 🙂
It's been a little while, but I am 99% sure I used 1/4 weedeater fuel line. The 1/4 line I use is a tight 1/4, so you could probably use 3/16 of you are willing to work a bit to get it on. Let me know how it goes!
If it's got the black carb, this will probably work. If it doesn't work. I have a recent video cleaning the jets. Check for spark too, a bad safety cable is usually the guilty party if there isn't one.
It's a vent. This is a shortcut to delay rebuilding the carb. The carb is designed under California standards and tends to run lean on its best day and not deliver enough fuel to start the motor unless it's ideal.
Rebuilding the carb is best, but this works every time. I have a couple videos on cleaning the jets on this carb in the lawnmowers playlist but... try this first, it will surprise you 🙂
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I normally clean the carb after it sits and it fires right up. I've always noticed it not really priming like I thought it should. I've cleaned and rebuilt several times lately and it will not run. Gonna try this today
@@ChanceJames28 If you already cleaned the jets(the brass inserts on the white jet pack inside the carb), then this will surprise you. The design or the primer on these is pitiful, make sure the gasket between the carb and airbox is good when you add the plug and I would be willing to bet it will start first pull.
It got a carb rebuild later that took care of it. You are right, though, when a motor is cycling, it's usually the springs or the jets. It's rarely the governor.
I used 1/4 rubber pipe, I got it hot with my fireplace lighter and used pliers. It always works, but if you are mechanically inclined, I have a recent video that covers cleaning the jets on the plastic briggs carb. It's a 10 minute job that only takes basic tools but using the linkage off and putting it back can be annoying if you don't work on stuff like this. Either way will work. Let me know how it comes out. 👍 Edit: you can also buy a 1/4 plug at just about any parts store for nearly nothing. It's an air vent, so it doesn't have to be fuel line
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Maybe I need to drain the tank, this is my daughter’s mower, no telling how old the fuel is. I’m wondering if it’s a bigger problem though…when it starts, it blows white smoke then dies. That’s either water in fuel…or head gasket on a car….so I’m wondering now.
@LoriCazey On a mower, it is usually either over-filled oil, or the float is sticking on the carb, and fuel is going back into the oil. Check the oil level and see if it looks high
It's a short term fix for people not terribly familiar with carbs. It will usually clear out obstructions in the carb and get it flowing freely again. I have a couple videos, one last week, showing how to clean the jets on this style carb, that's a better way to go if you are mechanically inclined. 🫶
So I just pitched the exact same mover and mine doesn’t have that little white plastic piece. Should I just seal it up? Or do I have to purchase the exact piece? And if so what is it called so I can order it. Please and thank you 🙏🏽 @guys playing with tools
It is also a support for that side of the carb though. I wouldn't try to run without it. If you got the mower new I would look around for it, little parts always make a run for it when they come off 🙂 If you got it used, it may have been taken apart by a rookie who lost it or couldn't figure out how it went together. Either way, if it were mine and it was missing, I would go on Amazon and get a carb, $20 or so and easy to put on.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools thank you for taking your time to reply back 🙏🏽 I’ll let you know how it goes once I purchase the carb piece. Any particular name the carb is called? Measurements? Or are they all the same?
@@jjrodriguez3251 HI JJ, look it up on Amazon by motor size. Something like Briggs 450ex or Briggs 550ex. The ex motors all have the black plastic carb and they are almost identical, there are 2 basic types. One with an automatic choke and one with a primer bulb on the cover, you can look at yours and tell them apart pretty easily. If it matches that and the engine size you have it made. If you would like, you can take the air filter off and email me a pic of the carb and the top of the motor and I can send you a link to the right one. My email is in my about section.
Sorry about that, I went to Disney for a few days and am just catching up. I don't have one here but I would say it's between 1/8 and 3/16, depending on how stretchy the line or plug you are using is. I used a piece of 1/8 hose that was semi-easy to stretch and it went on tight.
Hey this was really helpful, I’m working on one of those little turds right now! Actually mine is a Briggs 550E on a Poulan mower but it’s the same carb. I noticed that nipple and wondered why it was there, now I know! One piece of advice, do not try to drill the jet out even one size bigger on these little engines. You can get away with it on the 725EX because it’s 163cc but on the 140cc and smaller you will be buying a new carb if you try to jet it even one size up, it will run like the choke is on. That’s why it needs the air filter in place to run right, there’s no wiggle room to tweak the jet like the larger engines.
The 300 through the 6xx use mostly the same carb. Don't touch it unless it won't prime, it's a vent for something that doesn't need a vent LOL FYI, I LOVE the briggs plastic carbs, the jets pop out "easy peasy" and always clean up quick. Email me if you get hung up in any way.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools yeah, I kinda like the plastic carbs too. They don’t get corroded when dummies leave ethanol fuel in them all winter, they’re super easy to service PLUS they have that awesome bowl drain. I just need to cut down an Allen wrench to fit up under there and get to it lol!
I got mine to a point where if you prime it will run for a second or two, then die, then to get it running again, you have to prime it again, and it will run for a second or two then die...
This is a quick and dirty fix for vacuum leaks within the carb. Yours is going to need a touch more attention than that, you have a clogged jet. Give me the model of your mower and I will give you a link to a video covering that. It's a quick fix that most people can do without spending anything.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Technically my "Mower" is little more than an engine sitting on a cinder block, but the numbers stamped into the side are 08p502-0152-f1 and the engine cover says E300 Prime 125cc My plan is to power something dumb with it, but for that, it actually needs to run.
@Daniel Auen sounds like my kinda fun. Watch this video, it covers what you need for that carb. m.ua-cam.com/video/4pGj-1z9ym4/v-deo.html My latest vid is a go cart, people are voting for the first motor(s) and I am gonna make it happen 🤣
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Got it to a point where it will stay running thanks to you! its a little surgey and it spits oil out of the muffler, might be because I accidentally overfilled it a bit. but it stays on now. now I need to find a new cable for it.
@Daniel Auen Very nice. I was thinking about it half the day yesterday. If it's blowing smoke, stop stop stop and drain the oil to the correct level. Too much oil will make it smoke a lot. It can also make the piston choose a new direction, and that's only fun when it's not your mower 😁
I have done that too but I always forget to grab them when I am out and about. I don't see these often enough for it to stick in my head and every time I run across this problem I think "no reason to go out for one little part that I can make" 🙂
I hate to admit it but I kinda like the plastic carbs, it's the lack of an idle control that drives me a little crazy. On yours at least you can bump the idle a bit before changing spring tension
Wow, this worked immediately and I just reached around the back and plugged the nipple. You are a genius.
Cleaning the jets is also a good way to go but it doesn't change anything about this vent, it just shouldn't be there. When you stop the odd bowl vent the jets tend the clear themselves quickly 🙂
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Prior to this video I poured a whole bottle of stabil fast fix in the tank so hopefully it will blow out the jets. Thank Again,
@christopherbuxton3290 That's a lot. It should be helpful. As a rule, it won't help if it won't start, but since you are pushing fuel through the jets, it seems like it would get them back to perfect after a few mow days. Fall is coming, remember to run it empty before putting it away for the winter.
I did what you showed in the video and I can now start my Murray B&S 450E with one or two pulls! GREAT VIDEO! YOU have saved this mower from from the dreaded DON'T OR CAN'T USE IT ANYMORE JUNK PILE! THANKS!
Isn't it great when an easy fix actually fixes the problem 🤔
YES, it makes an older man feel good. I have a BIG interest in mechanical things - not a BIG aptitude but I am going to share your FIX with two local buddies who do small engine repair AND a Mennonite run small engine shop where I bought the small tubing for the fix. GREAT JOB! THANKS AGAIN!
@@davidp.swaney353 THANKS!! I appreciate it! I love hearing that I helped a little. I don't make anything doing this, it's all for the fun of knowing I helped someone here and there. I love getting subscribers, it tells me I am doing something right. 😁
Saw the same thing but looked for a repipe to the tank, thanks for confirming it doesn't need or have 1 ! that was of great help!
I am glad to help 👍 It's a vent without a purpose. Lol
Can't believe this worked. 👍🏻 I could keep the mower running by continuing to press the Primer. Once I stopped Priming the mower would shut off.
I was Skeptical about this fix.... SO I just tried putting my finger over the end of that (whatever that thing is he capped off) and YEP!!! It stayed running...
I took my finger off and it stayed running.... Seems all I needed to do was Cover the end of that for a few seconds and I was fine again...
Mower starts and stays running now. I still may plug the end of that off like he did in the video....
- THANK YOU!!!! ....Great video!... I still can't believe it worked!!!! 👍🏻🤓
It surprises everyone when they try it. I stared at the carb internal plumbing for a while before I thought, "This vent should be a problem. "... and found the trick in the video.
Later versions of the same carb have a solid piece instead of a vent
TY YOU ARE THE FIRST ONE TO HELP EXPLAIN THAT FUUUUU PROBLEM.
😎 Thanks! It took me a while to figure out the first time, I stared at the carb for an hour before putting one and one and one together. Glad it helped!
Thank you! I cut off the end of a cheap pen, put a piece of tape over the little white thing. Then twisted the pen end over it. Tape made it nice and snug.
And it started? 😁
This doesn't really concern what's in the video but it's the newest video I can see with this engine. Last year I was mowing and it was running great like it had been for 4 years. Then all of a sudden, it stuttered, kinda backfired and blue smoke just start rolling out of it. It didn't last long but it was enough smoke to fend off every mosquito in a 100 yard radius. I thought she was done for. So I took it back on level ground. Looked it over. Didn't see anything visibly wrong. I primed it, pulled the cord and it started and I was able to finish mowing my yard. The next time I mowed, the engine was clearly ill. It had like half of the power it had, it chugged along at times. Grass even slightly thick would stall it. So the first thing I checked was the filter. And it was soaked with something. I don't think it was gas because it didn't really smell like gas. But I'm not sure why it would have been soaked with water. I cleaned the foam filter, sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb. Started it, it burned off the carb cleaner and it actually ran but it was weak. But the rest of the summer was a battle to keep it running. I would prime it and most of the time it would burn that off and it cut right off. It would run for 10 seconds and cut off. A few times it would run but she chugged and stuttered like crazy. Fast forward to now. I took the carb off to look it over. Everything looked great. No debris, no water. Float looked good. Everything looked good. I put it back together. Primed it, pulled the cord and son of a gun, damn thing started right up and it was humming like it did when it was brand new. I was tickled. The first thing I did was aimed for some really thick grass and it mowed it down without any hesitation. I was mowing for probably a minute and she coughed. Then she chugged. Then she cut off. A few choice words were said and I saw gas gushing out of it. I forgot to screw in the 2 screws that hold the carb together. My fault. So I put the screws in. Put some more gas in. Started it and the damn thing started chugging and coughing like it did last year. Why in the hell did it run so good just a few minutes earlier. Put in 2 screws and it runs like crap? So I keep priming and starting it. Run for about 30 seconds and it would cut off. Start it and just shoot a bunch of carb cleaner in it. I probably shot a quarter of a can in it. It finally started sounding better and it was running for probably 2 minutes. So I decided to try it on some grass. It mowed, a few coughs and chugs here and there but it was running and was fairly strong. Then it cut off again. Got it running again, ran over a dusty dirt spot and it cut it right off. So I got to thinking, I got another mower with the same engine. It was just a dumb thought but I figured to switch the filters. Got the filter from the other mower and it was in worse shape than on the mower I'm trying to fix. I said screw it. I switched the filter and the damn mower ran for 30 minutes at full song. Not one issue with it. It was knocking down tall grass and weeds like it was brand new. I cut it off just to start it again and it started right up. How in the hell could switching the filter with an even filthier one make the engine run that much better? So I keep mowing. Happy as hell, and confused, that the mower was finally running good. I hit a dusty spot and the damn thing choked right out and it's back to doing the same damn thing again. Start, run a few seconds and cut right off. Sorry this was so long but what the heck could be going on with this? Why would switching filters, for a dirtier one at that, make it run so good and why would just simply running over a dusty spot mess it up again. The dust didn't even get around the filter/carb. It was blowing away from it.
Where to start... I had to re-read it a couple times just to make sure I didn't miss anything. I will try to touch all the bases you mentioned...🙂
I see a possible fuel flow issue causing it to lean out and lose power and also a flooding issue. The combination of the 2 would cause exactly the type of behavior you are seeing and make it seem like it had developed a personality.
1) The colored smoke tells me the floats stuck open, at least for a moment. The liquid on the filter reinforces it.
2) The dirty filter making a difference but then getting a touch more dust on it making it get worse tells me that the carb is normally running a bit lean.
There are probably 4 years worth of fun and games hanging around in the jets. That is reinforced by it running "soft", not having enough power to do the job it has always done. That would cause the motor to run lean. The colored smoke tells me the floats stuck open, at least for a moment. Again, 4 years worth of wear, dirt, gas deposits, loose change(LOL) stuck in the seat of the float. The dirty filter slowed the air, causing it to run a bit richer, that didn't fix it, it just hid the problem (for a minute).
Fix:
1) Restricted fuel flow - Clean the tank and filter\strainer in the tank and replace the fuel line. Take it to your local auto store and match it for size, make sure they give you fuel line, I had one give me rubber hose not rated for fuel.🤨
2) Floats sticking on the carb - Replace it. That takes care of your sticky floats and your clogged jets all at once. If they weren't $25(or less) I would walk you through rebuilding it but it's cheap and puts it to bed all at once. With the cheap price of carbs for little engines they are rarely worth the time it takes to get them "right".
Once you are done... CHANGE THE OIL!!!(Really! LOL) When a carb floods it ALWAYS dumps gas in the oil, it's just a matter of how much gas got dumped in. The 300e takes a max of 16oz (.47 liters)
So... after that overly long explanation of why.... fuel line, carb, air filter and oil change and you should be good to go. 😁 We have a running joke around here where I say "betcha a Nickle" when I am sure of something...
Betcha a Nickle.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Thanks for the reply. I soaked the filter in dawn dish soap and water over night. It cleaned up quite well. Rinsed it many times and dried it of course. Then I went and just took everything apart and soaked it with carb cleaner. Took out the, I guess the venturi, and shot carb cleaner in every hole it has until the cleaner shot out of the other holes. Damn near shot a stream in my own mouth from a little hole I didn't see that was pointed at me. Shot cleaner in every hole that gas passes through. Put everything back together. Made sure everything had a tight, snug fit. Put some gas in the tank, primed it and on the 3rd pull it started right up. Strong hum. A very light hiccup about every 3 seconds. I let it run for 5 minutes. Took it over some gravel and dusty dirt and it never bogged down. Went through some 12 inch tall grass/weeds and it mowed it right down. I cut it off. Waited about 30 seconds and it started perfectly on the first pull. Ran it about 5 more minutes. Cut it off and waited about 10 minutes. Started it again perfectly on the first pull. So maybe, hopefully it's gonna be reliable again. I'm right fond of her and plus I don't feel like dishing out $250 bucks for another. But I do plan on getting another filter and changing the oil.
Fantastic! Do the oil pretty quick, with what you described it's bound to have s bit of fuel in it. This made my day, and it's still dark-o'clock I'm the morning. 😁
I picked this pos mower up over my head and threww it 15 feet, bending the cheap frame, breaking a wheel and top.. then i put it in the dumpster. Happy about it.
I could do a whole series on why I don't like these mowers. I have said it a hundred times, anything with a Quantum motor is best.
Bet it runs now
🤣
Same bro
I found one on the side of the road, unstuck needle valve in carb, been cutting grass ever since...... #FREEFIDDY
I have this lawn mower could never get it started no matter after sitting a year and a half. Changed the oil, new spark plug, cleaned the gas tank and carburetor and tried the plug. Can't think of anything else to check, don't see a fuel pump and I don't think there's a fuel filter. Looks like it worked for others though, that's good.
Take the carb off and clean the jets, and it should start right up. I have a pretty recent video on the e series carb and jet cleaning. I think I did it on a 500e, but for your purposes, they are all identical.
If you can't find it, let me know. After you see it, you will make short work of fixing it
Let me know if you can't find it, I love hearing about people that got their mowers running
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I also cleaned the jets. I have two carbs one from an out of commission mower basically same exact motor.. Cleaned it and tried it also, no luck. I might try it again, but I'm stumped.
@@christru22 Did you try it with starter fluid? If you still don't get anything, the next step is spark.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Not yet, but plan on it tomorrow.
@christru22 If you have a spark checker, try that first. It might be as simple as a grounded wire
Why would I plug the vacuum valve? How did it start "escaping air"? You don't explain how you made the plug. How did you enclose the end of the plug? Can't I just use the cap from a BIV pen if it fits snugly?
It's not a vacuum valve, it's a vent. I covered how I made it, but you can also buy one that would work for nearly nothing at an auto parts store.
What's the fix if the leak is at the seal you first pointed at and the nipple. I plugged the end of the nipple but it is leaking at the seal. Thanks in advance.
Hi, I am guessing a little, but I am pretty sure you mean the seal where the little nipple goes into the carb. If that's loose and leaking I would probably go old world and take it out and wrap it with teflon tape 2 or 3 times. I have seen people glue them in with epoxy and whatnot and that does work but I question how heat would affect it long term.
Keep in mind that aftermarket carbs for this motor start at $13 and factory carbs can usually be had on clearance for $20 on Amazon. I have had good luck on the 2 or 3 times I tried them. Once you have the air filter off the only thing you need to be careful of is the linkage, take pics every step so you get it right going back on 🙂
(edit: if you buy a carb for this one, make sure it matches your engine size, the EX carbs are 100% interchangable but the wrong one will have the wrong jets in it and run badly)
Let me know how it goes!
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Just tried the Teflon tape before your response and it sealed. Still won't start but it isn't leaking from that point in the carb now at least. I'll pick up some starter fluid and see if it starts then I'm going to check the spark plug and probably drain the fuel and refill with fresh gas next. Thanks again for the quick response and advice.
I just picked this mower up yesterday from my neighbor who put it out for free in our alley. Not sure on the history of it's use and maintenance history but it looks almost new and barely used. Blade is sharp and it will make a great replacement for my mother's mower. The linkage mount snapped off the cast motor and cannot be repaired on that one.
@@anonymousanonymous-bd1be This trick was for a specific problem, when it starts with starter fluid and runs good. I didn't realize it was a different thing 🙂If it's been sitting a while you will want to start off draining and replacing the gas for sure, then give it a dozen pulls, if it still doesn't start, clean the jets and it will probably run for sure.
Why is that vent on the carb? Seems to not be a fix.
I am not sure, as near as I can tell, it is a design flaw. It's not really a vent as much as it's an alignment peg that goes clear through the carb.
Carbs bodies are always used in more than one application with modifications for each use, and this particular mod could have been better.
Swap the carb out
Hi I did today and it worked great. Do I leave it permanently? Or is it just because it was the first start up of the year?
Cool! Leave it. It's not hurting anything. 🙂 If you decide one day to overhaul
eplace the carb you can take it off. You are blocking an internal vacuum leak in the bowl that was allowing the prime to escape, by stopping the bowl vent. It's the only carb I ever touch that even has a "bowl vent", most pointless thing I have ever seen on a mower.🤣
What are we plugging this with? 🤔 asking for a friend
I found a piece of rubber hose that fit and melted one end, but you can get 1/4 plugs at just about any parts store
@GuysPlayingWithTools the friend says thanks
Tell him I said good luck. 👍
But what if you don't have a primer bulb?
Are you referring to the motors that don't come with one? They use an auto- choke that(when working right) pulls enough gas to start it.
What size was that tubing?
Hi Joseph. I am going to guess it was about 3/8 ID, I grabbed a random piece of tube from my "tube box". If you have a parts or hardware store nearby they sell plug assortments that are even easier than melting a tube. Good luck, let us know how it worked!👍
Looking at the plug they had to have a reason for it but changed their minds,and for sure they know it's a bad set up so many failing they could at least gave everyone a cap on THIE thing before selling it to us😂😂😂😂😂
It's a vent to nowhere. Cleaning the keys on the carb takes care of this problem too, but it fails a lot earlier than it should with that %#%% hole in the side. 🤣
What if there is no option to make a plug, then what?
You could get one at an auto parts store. Anything that stops the air flow and increases the vacuum inside the carb will work. My next video coming out Saturday morning goes a little deeper into that specific carb.
I uploaded the video covering that carb inside out today. Hopefully it will be helpful for your particular issue. 🙂
Where's the gas filter in these things?
Crazy as it sounds, they usually don't have one.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools
There is a cheap plastic screen in the gas tank over the hole going to the feed to the carb
That's more a rock catcher than a filter. Most mowers have a semi-respecabke steel mesh filter at the tank exit... That's one of the reasons it's not my favorite design.
thank you
👍glad it helped
I hope you don't think this was helpful. 1. How did you make the "plug"? 2. Where did you spray the starting fluid to make it run primarily?
Well... some thought it was helpful anyway... 🙂
I apologize that it didn't cover everything you were looking for, sometimes I make an assumption of skill level that I shouldn't, I will work on that and try to improve. Let's get to the questions!
1. I thought I mentioned this part but I should have showed it on the video... I used a piece of clear rubber tube I had lying around the shop, I melted one end with a soldering iron and squeezed it together with pliers while it was still very hot, which sealed the end. You can get actual plugs at your local auto parts store, I didn't have any on hand that were the right size.
2. When you use starter fluid it is the same for all engines. on a small engine like a mower or weed eater you would remove the air filter and spray it straight into the carb opening.
I hope that was more helpful for you. Sometimes I make the mistake of trying to keep the video as short as possible by skipping over parts that I don't think are relevant, I will work on that. 😁
@@GuysPlayingWithTools See, that's what I'm talkin' 'bout. Thanks, Now I think I can proceed, and if this works, YOU, my friend, are the MAN!
Don't get me wrong, the video was great, otherwise. Please keep up the good work. By the way, I subscribed to your channel (I think). Anyway If I didn't before I will now.
@@MJ201254 No worries, I learn from comments, sometimes I learn what I did right, and sometimes what I did wrong . It's easy to think that everyone knows what you know but occasionally I need someone I remind me that it's not obvious if you don't do it every day.
Live and learn, right?
If you get hung up, go to my about and grab my email, I probably talk to 10 people a week about how this or that works. I am retired so it's fun, I have nothing better to do. LOL
@@MJ201254 I appreciate it. Feel free to comment the way you feel, if you like it, tell me what ya liked, if you hate it, tell me why you hated it. I learn more from people who have an issue than people who just tell me it's great.
Did what you said and still nothing 🤔
They aren't always the same, this fixes a specific issue where it starts with starting fluid and then runs fine. If yours does that, and is an ex motor but stopping the vent doesn't help, it's time to clean the jets. I touch on that in this one. ua-cam.com/video/XJ8KuhVDils/v-deo.html
This is specific to the black carb on the ex motors. It's nice to have an ultrasonic but if you don't, clear the jets with a needle or wire.(I show that at the 12:30 mark) Lemme know how it goes!
ok nothing else to do, cleaned carb, gas tank, changed oil, new air filter, fresh gas...wth? I guess we'll see..\its been mocking me, letting me mow a little bit then starting its crap again
These motors can be complainers. Did you clean the jets when you cleaned the carb? They are part of a white insert inside the bowl. I just did a video on a 500 series e motor last week with the exact same carb.
I can hardley believe that it worked....for ME! Ms Unlucky finally caught a little bit THANK YOU..haven't seen this anywhere else! 🤗
I did I did..and some guy at work convinced me to do it again but soon as I saw it I knew it was as clean as it was gonna get, yes I had got to the jets.....so I slipped gas tank off and cleaned it. It started and let me mow back yard then it just suddenly idled down low and started cutting off again...but you fixed it for me. I believe this did the trick..I just snipped off a piece of thin clear tubing and melted the end, it slipped right on nice and snug and acts like nothing was ever wrong . HA!@@GuysPlayingWithTools
@poncandn1 Love it! One other thing I always check is that the choke isn't sticking. (They can be a little sticky and make the mower act like it's possessed)
@@GuysPlayingWithTools If it decides to play some more with me that's the first thing I'll check!
I was wondering where that vacuum outlet went to or not to.
Thank you for this quick fix.
Good point, I didn't think about that part, I suppose a lot of people will realize it goes to the case when they see this.
Hey man, you are absolutely amazing!!! I covered mine just like you instructed and "bam" it started right up. Thank you so much.
Thanks 😁
It's not the "right" answer (clearing the jets is better), but it works every time. I am glad it helped.
Edit: Don't forget to hit the subscribe button, that's what is all about for me 😁
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Oh yeah, I tore the carb apart (piece by piece) I sprayed every orifice and every jet port with carb cleaner, compressed air and used a strand of wire to make sure I got everything. Then I wiped it all down, put it back together and nothing. But after seeing your video, I covered that nipple with my finger, hit the primer bulb (7 times) and it started right up. So then I found some old fuel line and heat shrink wrap to make a permanent fix. So far, so good.
@William Chapman That's exactly what I found when I decided to sit down with the carb and follow every passage... all the "normal" fixes failed. When I saw the possible air leak, I put duct tape on it to test, and it worked, so I came up with a good way to make it work every time. I love hearing it work for other people.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Thanks again for all of your responses.
Hey thanks for watching. 🙂
It started right up after plugged!
Thank you, thank you!
A complete carb rebuild would have done the sane thing, but for the reverse homeowner, this is really easy to do, and it does the vacuum problem just as well
Been fixing cars and golf cars for many years. I tore into the carb on the same mower and figured it would be easy. I did everything but clean the jets as I could not find them. I had no idea that the white thing in the middle popped out and the jets were in there.. Thanks you very much for this video. very easy to fix, once I knew how to get to the jets. :)
Well, this comment was for the video where you tore the carb apart and cleaned it.. UA-cam moved to a new video while I was typing. No idea what video it was now..
Thanks! From what you said, I am sure you are working on a Briggs ex motor. If you started as a car guy(like me), I am sure the plastic carb had you shaking your head a little. It's a good carb, just different.
I have tried to cover all the carbs on little motors and that's one of my favorites for cleaning.
Good to hear it worked for you. 🙂
The cord that hangs from handle to back of mower size, and how to place it.
If you mean the pull cord, there is a metal piece that bolts to the side of the handle that it loops through. I see them missing all the time.
How did I fix a screw that’s been overtightened and I lost seal there
@alicialewis9001 airbox to the carb? If it were me, I would take the screw to lowes and find one a bit larger(not much, just a little). It's either that or replace the carb, so you aren't going to hurt anything trying
Cleaned carburetor only starts and runs with starting fluid
Did you try the trick in this video? It usually works like a charm
Thanks a million, I've been running the 12000 series for years & it was always the rear gasket starts leaking, just got one of these & the same problem you are showing, I've got some vacuum line so this is an easy fix, again thanks.
I am glad I can help 🙂
If you are handy, take the bottom 2 bolts off the carb(bowl bolts) and pop the white part out GENTLY with a flathead, then run a wire through the small brass parts in the white part and put it back together. Everything only fits one way, so if it all goes together, it's right.
Do that, and block that foolish port, and I would bet 11 cents it starts first pull. 👍
Why is that even fitted to these carbs ? It doesnt seem to serve any purpose and looks like it should have a pipe pushed over it, but there is no pipe to push on ?
I will be nice and say it was an interesting engineering choice... I think there were 1 too many people involved in the design.
It's too bad. Outside that weird little part, it might be the best small engine carb out there.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools - I'm having a fire and die issue with one of these. I've had it apart so many times. I could do it with my eyes closed. Cleaned the jets, blocked off this little white pipe connector, made sure there are no air leaks, blown all the fuel ways through and still it fires and dies.
It will run for a little while if I spray some flammable stuff in the intake.
I'm getting ready to resort to the last option of a new carb, but dont want to as I feel the fix, if found will be simple.
The original problem was that it would start Ok, but barely run. Just about tick over, but that was it. After cleaning out the carb, it started the fire and die thing. But before dying, does rev properly.
Any ideas before I commit to a new carb ?
@@herenow2895 Fire and die is almost always the jets. On this carb it's specifically the one facing straight down because it lives below fuel level.
*I see this all the time*, this video will probably save you, it covers a Briggs plastic carb that was in way worse shape than yours. I would bet 6 cents(LOL) that, if you follow what I did in the video, it starts first pull when you are done.
ua-cam.com/video/Xa938qHp0lU/v-deo.html
@@GuysPlayingWithTools - 6 cents ? Uhmm ? I reckon that would be about 5p on this side of the pond :)
I'll check out that video. Many thanks and much appreciated.
I've got a can of Berrymans carb cleaner and blasted it through that bottom jet and it came out of all 3 exits at the top end. Even the tiny one.
But I'll get on it tmrw.
Cheers.
@herenow2895 watch the part with the wire, that's really the magic to it all. Cleaning the body is a good idea but the problems are usually on the bottom jet.
I will be in London in August(a lot better than being in Texas in the heat of summer)
Thank you so much for the info. Been really frustrated bc I couldn't get this brand new mower to start and I knew it had something to do with that empty nipple
on the side.......THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks! It makes my day when someone gives me a comment like this 😁
Don't forget to subscribe, we are about to hit 1000 and we are having a pretty good giveaway the weekend after we hit it.
Just did this mod to mine after chasing a no start for the last year . Thank you so much !
Glad it helped. It's one of those things that isn't in any book anywhere 🙂
Great video! I have the same engine on my 300e B&S but i still cant get mine to turn one. Wil go like its about to but quickly turns off.
Thanks. That's a different(but easy) problem to fix. The jets are clogged. I am going to look at a couple mowers tomorrow that have a similar carb and I will do a quick video on cleaning jets on one. Should have it by Sunday, Monday at the latest.
Update, I am waiting for parts to finish the mower but we included that carb and the jets in the next video coming up... Depending on delivery speed, probably Thursday.
how did you make plug
I had a rubber hose that I melted the end on and made a plug. Auto parts stores sell 1/4 plugs that would fit right on if you don't want to melt a rubber tube.
So what was the cap for on the carb
These carbs are made to fit a lot of different applications, in this particular one that line is not used. Some leak vacuum, others don't. The homemade cap is used to stop the vacuum if it's leaking. If yours has this carb and starts easy with starter fluid and runs good but won't start without it, this will fix it.
These engines would be very reliable if it wasn't for thier cheap carburetors
I dunno, I like the plastic carbs. It took a while to get used to them and there are a couple tricks to them but all carbs are that way. The jets and float systems in them are really reliable compared to some of the older carbs and super easy to work on when they fail.
are.....you....KIDDING ME!? &*(%$%#@$65^$ so many things I tried....then THIS? Thank you.
I am guessing it worked.😁 You aren't alone, I tried a lot of things before I found this little trick.I am glad it helped, don't forget to subscribe 😁
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Seems like a major design flaw. Could there be another vacuum leak somewhere else that combines with this port to cause the start/stop problem?
@@whollenbeck8 a quick carb rebuild would help, but you are right... it's just not a great design.
I messed with that Troy-bilt till I about had my scalp pulled out because the hair was LONG gone about the primer on the other side. It ran fine but would not prime and I had all that straightened out before it sat. I countersunk the NEW carb a little to make sure it wasn't restricted and then covered the air box gasket all over EXCEPT the primer hole with Permatex #2. It WORKED but then the self-propel quit. THAT'S when I got rid of everything but the Snapper walker and Craftsman rider and bought the Stihl. Now she don't have to pull start and I don't have to worry. Now for the spare rider. Thanks!
I don't think I have any permatex or anything like it, with carbs. If they don't work, I go straight to the jets and then clean all the assorted passages. A complete clean and new gaskets would fix the priming problem, but capping the vent also works, and it doesn't hurt a thing.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I usually do but I have stuff torn down and removing rats nests and such so not a big deal. And it's usually a main jet issue anyway like you said.
This didn't work for me, my plug was sealed. I ended up taking my air compressor and blowing into the small hole(the one the primer bulb blows into) that cleared it out and it works.
Working is what counts. You had an air clog in the primer system. I have seen that happen, but air leaks are a lot more common. I am glad you got yours running. 👍
this must be the problem with mine. When I press the prime it will actually spray gas out that tube. Now I just need to find something to plug it with. doesn't look like you can just buy that piece and replace it.
If you are ambitious, a quick rebuild would probably be a good idea. If gas comes out there, something is clogged.
I have a couple of videos that focus on the e series plastic carb. They are nice carbs when they work. 🙂
What size was that pvc tubing/plug you made sir?
It's been a little while, but I am 99% sure I used 1/4 weedeater fuel line. The 1/4 line I use is a tight 1/4, so you could probably use 3/16 of you are willing to work a bit to get it on.
Let me know how it goes!
I just got this mower and really good shape for free the guy didn't know what the problem was I was looking around trying to figure it out here I am
If it's got the black carb, this will probably work. If it doesn't work. I have a recent video cleaning the jets. Check for spark too, a bad safety cable is usually the guilty party if there isn't one.
Mine has that nipple and one in the back of the air cleaner , to the primer. Would connecting these with a hose do anything good, or bad ?
Is it running OK now?
I got a one season winter old and it has same issue. Will give it a shot and see what happens. Why is it necessary to plug the air intake?
It's a vent. This is a shortcut to delay rebuilding the carb. The carb is designed under California standards and tends to run lean on its best day and not deliver enough fuel to start the motor unless it's ideal.
I swear, if this works, I'm gonna be pissed lol
Rebuilding the carb is best, but this works every time. I have a couple videos on cleaning the jets on this carb in the lawnmowers playlist but... try this first, it will surprise you 🙂
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I normally clean the carb after it sits and it fires right up. I've always noticed it not really priming like I thought it should. I've cleaned and rebuilt several times lately and it will not run. Gonna try this today
@@ChanceJames28 If you already cleaned the jets(the brass inserts on the white jet pack inside the carb), then this will surprise you. The design or the primer on these is pitiful, make sure the gasket between the carb and airbox is good when you add the plug and I would be willing to bet it will start first pull.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools I agree. Terrible design
@ChanceJames28 is a weird trick that gets rid of a design flaw
Sounds like the engine is surging back and forth a bit when running. The governor spring may be a little too tight.
It got a carb rebuild later that took care of it. You are right, though, when a motor is cycling, it's usually the springs or the jets. It's rarely the governor.
What did you use to make the plug? I’ve got one doing this!!
I used 1/4 rubber pipe, I got it hot with my fireplace lighter and used pliers. It always works, but if you are mechanically inclined, I have a recent video that covers cleaning the jets on the plastic briggs carb. It's a 10 minute job that only takes basic tools but using the linkage off and putting it back can be annoying if you don't work on stuff like this.
Either way will work. Let me know how it comes out. 👍
Edit: you can also buy a 1/4 plug at just about any parts store for nearly nothing. It's an air vent, so it doesn't have to be fuel line
Well, I put a plug on and it will start, but then dies almost immediately .
@@LoriCazey How old is the gas? From here it's either old gas or the jets
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Maybe I need to drain the tank, this is my daughter’s mower, no telling how old the fuel is. I’m wondering if it’s a bigger problem though…when it starts, it blows white smoke then dies. That’s either water in fuel…or head gasket on a car….so I’m wondering now.
@LoriCazey On a mower, it is usually either over-filled oil, or the float is sticking on the carb, and fuel is going back into the oil. Check the oil level and see if it looks high
I be damned , it worked great . I cleaned the carb last time . Knew no way it could of been dirty thank you bossman.
I am glad to hear it! This is how I like to start my day, hearing I helped someone. 🙂
I have the same engine but it's a poulan. After the first winter start, 3 pumps on the bulb and it's starts right up.
👍That's how they are supposed to work.
So is this a permanent fix, or should i try to reseat or replace that valve!
It's a short term fix for people not terribly familiar with carbs. It will usually clear out obstructions in the carb and get it flowing freely again. I have a couple videos, one last week, showing how to clean the jets on this style carb, that's a better way to go if you are mechanically inclined. 🫶
So I just pitched the exact same mover and mine doesn’t have that little white plastic piece. Should I just seal it up? Or do I have to purchase the exact piece? And if so what is it called so I can order it. Please and thank you 🙏🏽 @guys playing with tools
It is also a support for that side of the carb though. I wouldn't try to run without it. If you got the mower new I would look around for it, little parts always make a run for it when they come off 🙂
If you got it used, it may have been taken apart by a rookie who lost it or couldn't figure out how it went together.
Either way, if it were mine and it was missing, I would go on Amazon and get a carb, $20 or so and easy to put on.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools thank you for taking your time to reply back 🙏🏽 I’ll let you know how it goes once I purchase the carb piece. Any particular name the carb is called? Measurements? Or are they all the same?
@@jjrodriguez3251 HI JJ, look it up on Amazon by motor size. Something like Briggs 450ex or Briggs 550ex. The ex motors all have the black plastic carb and they are almost identical, there are 2 basic types. One with an automatic choke and one with a primer bulb on the cover, you can look at yours and tell them apart pretty easily. If it matches that and the engine size you have it made. If you would like, you can take the air filter off and email me a pic of the carb and the top of the motor and I can send you a link to the right one. My email is in my about section.
What diameter size is the clear tube?
Sorry about that, I went to Disney for a few days and am just catching up. I don't have one here but I would say it's between 1/8 and 3/16, depending on how stretchy the line or plug you are using is. I used a piece of 1/8 hose that was semi-easy to stretch and it went on tight.
Hey this was really helpful, I’m working on one of those little turds right now! Actually mine is a Briggs 550E on a Poulan mower but it’s the same carb. I noticed that nipple and wondered why it was there, now I know! One piece of advice, do not try to drill the jet out even one size bigger on these little engines. You can get away with it on the 725EX because it’s 163cc but on the 140cc and smaller you will be buying a new carb if you try to jet it even one size up, it will run like the choke is on. That’s why it needs the air filter in place to run right, there’s no wiggle room to tweak the jet like the larger engines.
The 300 through the 6xx use mostly the same carb. Don't touch it unless it won't prime, it's a vent for something that doesn't need a vent LOL
FYI, I LOVE the briggs plastic carbs, the jets pop out "easy peasy" and always clean up quick. Email me if you get hung up in any way.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools yeah, I kinda like the plastic carbs too. They don’t get corroded when dummies leave ethanol fuel in them all winter, they’re super easy to service PLUS they have that awesome bowl drain. I just need to cut down an Allen wrench to fit up under there and get to it lol!
@@mjg263 I just pop them off, 4 screws and it's in your hand, gotta love that
Lam.Tot Well.Done
Thanks 👍
I got mine to a point where if you prime it will run for a second or two, then die, then to get it running again, you have to prime it again, and it will run for a second or two then die...
This is a quick and dirty fix for vacuum leaks within the carb. Yours is going to need a touch more attention than that, you have a clogged jet.
Give me the model of your mower and I will give you a link to a video covering that. It's a quick fix that most people can do without spending anything.
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Technically my "Mower" is little more than an engine sitting on a cinder block, but the numbers stamped into the side are 08p502-0152-f1 and the engine cover says E300 Prime 125cc My plan is to power something dumb with it, but for that, it actually needs to run.
@Daniel Auen sounds like my kinda fun. Watch this video, it covers what you need for that carb. m.ua-cam.com/video/4pGj-1z9ym4/v-deo.html
My latest vid is a go cart, people are voting for the first motor(s) and I am gonna make it happen 🤣
@@GuysPlayingWithTools Got it to a point where it will stay running thanks to you! its a little surgey and it spits oil out of the muffler, might be because I accidentally overfilled it a bit. but it stays on now. now I need to find a new cable for it.
@Daniel Auen Very nice. I was thinking about it half the day yesterday. If it's blowing smoke, stop stop stop and drain the oil to the correct level. Too much oil will make it smoke a lot. It can also make the piston choose a new direction, and that's only fun when it's not your mower 😁
Excellent
Thanks! 😁
I just pick up a few vacuum caps at the auto parts store, when I remember them.
I have done that too but I always forget to grab them when I am out and about. I don't see these often enough for it to stick in my head and every time I run across this problem I think "no reason to go out for one little part that I can make" 🙂
That's what she said
She won't prime, or runs with starter fluid? 🤣
Mine doesn’t have that plastic it’s just a metal screw. Thanks for the video it’s helpful. I’m never buying anything again with “Briggs Stratton”… lol
I hate to admit it but I kinda like the plastic carbs, it's the lack of an idle control that drives me a little crazy. On yours at least you can bump the idle a bit before changing spring tension